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I was thinking exactly the same thing, I’ve just watched this video hoping he will show us how to work out which sensor has failed. Not all of us have this computer. Video useless for us folks who can go this job on our own only if we had a computer.
All you need is £5 multimeter ... set it to ohms ... Read first tyre value for example 26.6 ohms ... measure the other 3 tyre too,reading should be between 1% of each other. If the reading gives you a 0 you have an open circuit and that sensor is bad. I'm no mechanic or auto electrician. I'm a UA-cam specialist. Your welcome.
@@truthexposed6151 I also am not a mechanic, but I slept at a Holiday Inn Express last night and agree completely with your method of testing. $600 scan tool, not required.
"For any of you who own a car" Proceeds to tell us to buy a $500-600 scan tool to replace a $40 part. All you need is a Digital Multimeter with Volts AC and Resistance to test/diagnose.
if we're itemizing everything out then don't forget about the jack stand, impact, floor jack, and sockets/allen wrench set... I mean if your car throws an ABS light on, a ESP BAF light, and a Traction Control light all at once.... Do you really start with jacking up the car and testing each WSS and going through every fuse in the fuse box to compare inconsistencies with what they should be and THEN try to fix it all yourself if you didn't know how to do any of it in the first place? or would you simply go to autozone or a local mechanic, have them give you the codes that triggered for free and isolate the issue and learn about how to fix it vs doing all the extra steps needed with a multimeter? I just fixed my vehicle by not learning about electrical currents for a vehicle (or using a test light- like you were probably meaning to refer to in the first place) by just going to autozone, them giving me the codes it found, looking them up and fixing the first part of the circuit that could fail (the WSS and then also an O2 sensor incase it was a faulty cat). but i still had to jack the car up, take the wheel off, install them, tighten it down, put the wheel back on and test drive it.... i mean he isn't saying to buy his tool, he recommended it. you can get the same thing done for free and at the same place that could sell you the part. Sooooo buying a multimeter and putting the time into learning everything about what the voltage should be for a circuit on that car for that sensor vs just getting the code for free at the store.... sound like you'd put so much more time into the electrical aspect.... unless it's true that you mistook a multimeter as a test light that lights up for a live wire... then you're still spending more money either way.... might as well nix the multimeter idea and the test light idea and do it the way that i just did for cheaper.... didn't use a multimeter, didn't use a "$500-600 scan tool".. just used resources... which clearly you discredit yourself if you try to benefit from them. either that you just flat out have an ego too big to say that you'd like some assistance and can't afford the tool that would help you do it yourself...
I’ll have to respectfully disagree with the “most times they do not fail on their own, fail due to human error” comment. My girlfriend’s 2012 Charger has had these sensors fail 6 times in 6 years. Each wheel sensor has been replaced at least one time. They have always been replaced at the dealership, using Mopar parts. I have read on more than one forum that symptoms started after driving through puddles or heavy rain. I feel that these are poorly designed and manufactured parts if they cant handle getting wet.
@@Kofi_Mensahs_BurnerAccount Not necessarily! I drive a 2009 Ram Laramie crew cab w/ 230K miles. My only issues so far were a fuel pump and a wheel hub. It’s been a good truck overall.
Great video. Cheap sensors are not made to oem standards and may not go deep enough to read accurate info to the ecm. Everything in this video is correct. Im simply pointing out a fact. If you are using a non oem cable and its current is acceptable and its new , however there is still an error remember this.
You know on those hall effect type sensors you can just use a DMM and test for AC voltage and spin the wheel by hand you will get some voltage around .5 volt or better you can repeat this test on each wheel and compare the differences. The bad one will be lower voltage or none at all. The clearance to the abs ring is critical to get the max volt reading without getting to close and hitting your sensor. Sensors can also be shimmed out or in more for tighter fitment. I've done a lot of look or Diesel tractor trailers with abs in the is how I checked sensors because scan tools for Bendix and webco are pricey and sometimes you just can't communicate what it is that's going on so you have to go back to the basics. Hall effect sensors are known as passive sensors. This is not the same test for what's called an active abs sensor which is different. Active sensors read from to different rings which are inside of the front hub bearing assembly, these sensor read a little differently and can't really be adjusted like the hall effect ones.
@@derekis1joedirt thanks. I actually was able to figure out that test with multimeter on a wheel or two. I ended up getting an elm327 adaptor and downloading ForScan and was able to get the abs data from there. Apparently my problem is U1900 CAN communication problem. It’s not a big deal but I do wish that ABS and parking brake indicators on my instrument cluster would go away. I’ve done some testing but everything looked good. Maybe I have a bad cluster. Replacing the cluster would be pretty far down my priority list at this time though.
@@Titans2138 I'm actually looking into an elm327 setup I wanna dual boot Linux on my 10 year old PC and use Linux for homebrewed open sourced goodness. I can't see spending money on software for a scanner it's crazy how expensive it is.
@@derekis1joedirt if have a Ford, it's amazing to me that Forscan is free. It shows you codes from all modules, performs self-tests, etc. Depends on your car, I can't change too much on my Crown Vic, but newer cars you can change a lot of things. The one thing I changed is that my doors now lock automatically when the car hits 5 mph which is pretty nice but mostly I just wanted to change something. I just got it for the ABS codes, really, but it'll show you way more live data than my cheap ancel scanner shows me, like wheel sensor data.
You didn't mention that it could just be dirty as well and not bad so try cleaning it good and putting it back if you have the time and want to try and save the money on the part tho it is cheap as far as sensors go
I think this may be my issue also driver side feels like it sticks with a loud sticky pulling sound when taking off from a stop fast but taking off slowly it don't have that stuck loud sound it's a 2009 Pontiac vibe GT.. and now that I think about it I think it was a code at one time when AutoZone tested it when I was trying to figure out some other issues.. I will change mine and let you know. Fingers crossed
will a clicking CV cause ABS light to come on? if i drive it a bit, shut off engine, light stays off, pretty much until i restart car usually cold start. im a courier so i can turn on/off several times an hour and light keeps coming on, seems to stay on after car is hot or running temps
Hi great video 👍🏼. I have a 2008 Honda Civic 1.8l and I’m having issues with the calibers sticking. I installed new calibers, slide pins, rotors, brake pads and both front brake line hoses. I’m still getting a stuck caliber on the driver side front. I also did a brake flush and filled the brake fluid reservoir to the correct full level but can not seem to find the problem. There’s no leaks around the master cylinder, no ABS or break light on and the brake lines look good. Brake fluid runs through the front brake lines properly. I’m stuck on this one. If you or anyone have any ideas on what my issue is can you please let me know. Thank you.
Did u check the sensor I think mine is sticking because of bad sensor but it’s not showing a light on dash. You don’t see a light on the dash so you think that’s not the problem could be wrong though
I think this may be my issue also driver side feels like it sticks with a loud sticky pulling sound when taking off from a stop fast but taking off slowly it don't have that stuck loud sound it's a 2009 Pontiac vibe GT.. and now that I think about it I think it was a code at one time when AutoZone tested it when I was trying to figure out some other issues.. I will change mine and let you know. Fingers crossed
On my Bmw 328i 2007 I get the code P0756 whenever I come to a stop or red light I get the transmission malfunction message but it only happens sometimes any ideas on whats causing this?
So this is rubbish. You can't tell if your wheel sensor is working, yourself. All you can do is get something like a maxicom to plug in and that is what can tell you. Most of us already know that, but don't have the money.
You know on those hall effect type sensors you can just use a DMM and test for AC voltage and spin the wheel by hand you will get some voltage around .5 volt or better you can repeat this test on each wheel and compare the differences. The bad one will be lower voltage or none at all. The clearance to the abs ring is critical to get the max volt reading without getting to close and hitting your sensor. Sensors can also be shimmed out or in more for tighter fitment. I've done a lot of look or Diesel tractor trailers with abs in the is how I checked sensors because scan tools for Bendix and webco are pricey and sometimes you just can't communicate what it is that's going on so you have to go back to the basics. Hall effect sensors are known as passive sensors. This is not the same test for what's called an active abs sensor which is different. Active sensors read from to different rings which are inside of the front hub bearing assembly, these sensor read a little differently and can't really be adjusted like the hall effect ones.
These guys are idiots simple get a multimeter or a test light find a ground and test the connectors on the sensors make sure the care is off if I the reading on the multimeter reads above .5 voltage you have a parasitic draw and should replace that part hopes this help guys!
Братлета, гледах много ваши клипове, с които отстраних много проблеми по своята кола. Подозирах че сте българи, но с този клип се убедих в това, защото видях трибагреника шо стените на гаража. Поздрави от България и продължавайте в същия дух!
Generally, this guy is extremely detailed and helpful. I was watching a vehicle specifc video and he suggested I find this video to explain how to test wheel speed sensor 😂
Save time just buy ramps or take tire off one by one buy the tool for one bolt, remove all sensor check I found one was scrapped half way and tight in there come to find out inactive symbol bc of it
I've had problems since getting my tires replaced. I've paid 3300 dollars in repairs, and it still is shaking, and the car is slowing down when I'm driving sometimes. I think it's a wheel censor, what is the name of the machine you used to test the censors?
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How do you simply test? You simply plug in your £800 OBD system. Useful, thanks :D
I was thinking exactly the same thing, I’ve just watched this video hoping he will show us how to work out which sensor has failed. Not all of us have this computer. Video useless for us folks who can go this job on our own only if we had a computer.
You can also use a cheap multimeter and find out which one is bad.
I thought the same thing…. I don’t have a diagnostic computer like yours, so how is this video helpful?
I was just about to say that. I had a poor man odb2 and tried diagnosing with that. Needless to say it didn't even seen the error. 🤡
That's his answer to most problems lol that's why I watch other vids
it's cheaper to just replace all the ABS sensors than buy that computer
🤣 this comment wins
I have the scan tool and it's honestly the best. There's not much I need a mechanic for to diagnose my car when this one does LITERALLY everything
Correct if 1 goes bad. Won't be long b4 another goes out
All you need is £5 multimeter ... set it to ohms ... Read first tyre value for example 26.6 ohms ... measure the other 3 tyre too,reading should be between 1% of each other. If the reading gives you a 0 you have an open circuit and that sensor is bad. I'm no mechanic or auto electrician. I'm a UA-cam specialist. Your welcome.
@@truthexposed6151 I also am not a mechanic, but I slept at a Holiday Inn Express last night and agree completely with your method of testing. $600 scan tool, not required.
I jacked up my Van and had a look.And found two broken cables, Changed them myself and the abs light went away.Best feeling ever haha 😄
could not see the value on the computer when you had someone spin the wheel because your other videos were splashed on and covering the screen
Me too
I appreciate the effort you put into your videos! thank you you're saving people a lot of money.
The only thing this video taught me is I need a bad ass scan tool. 😂 I already know this. 😂
"For any of you who own a car" Proceeds to tell us to buy a $500-600 scan tool to replace a $40 part. All you need is a Digital Multimeter with Volts AC and Resistance to test/diagnose.
Really cause I need a cheap way to figure out witch of my wheel speed censor is broken and I can't afford a 500 dollar computer
@@misfitmakeup1980 honestly you just need to learn how to spell, let's start there.
@@surfbug1 awe do you feel better now poor baby get bent
if we're itemizing everything out then don't forget about the jack stand, impact, floor jack, and sockets/allen wrench set... I mean if your car throws an ABS light on, a ESP BAF light, and a Traction Control light all at once.... Do you really start with jacking up the car and testing each WSS and going through every fuse in the fuse box to compare inconsistencies with what they should be and THEN try to fix it all yourself if you didn't know how to do any of it in the first place? or would you simply go to autozone or a local mechanic, have them give you the codes that triggered for free and isolate the issue and learn about how to fix it vs doing all the extra steps needed with a multimeter? I just fixed my vehicle by not learning about electrical currents for a vehicle (or using a test light- like you were probably meaning to refer to in the first place) by just going to autozone, them giving me the codes it found, looking them up and fixing the first part of the circuit that could fail (the WSS and then also an O2 sensor incase it was a faulty cat). but i still had to jack the car up, take the wheel off, install them, tighten it down, put the wheel back on and test drive it.... i mean he isn't saying to buy his tool, he recommended it. you can get the same thing done for free and at the same place that could sell you the part. Sooooo buying a multimeter and putting the time into learning everything about what the voltage should be for a circuit on that car for that sensor vs just getting the code for free at the store.... sound like you'd put so much more time into the electrical aspect.... unless it's true that you mistook a multimeter as a test light that lights up for a live wire... then you're still spending more money either way.... might as well nix the multimeter idea and the test light idea and do it the way that i just did for cheaper.... didn't use a multimeter, didn't use a "$500-600 scan tool".. just used resources... which clearly you discredit yourself if you try to benefit from them. either that you just flat out have an ego too big to say that you'd like some assistance and can't afford the tool that would help you do it yourself...
@@surfbug1cheap shot professor speller
I’ll have to respectfully disagree with the “most times they do not fail on their own, fail due to human error” comment. My girlfriend’s 2012 Charger has had these sensors fail 6 times in 6 years. Each wheel sensor has been replaced at least one time. They have always been replaced at the dealership, using Mopar parts. I have read on more than one forum that symptoms started after driving through puddles or heavy rain. I feel that these are poorly designed and manufactured parts if they cant handle getting wet.
Mistake number 1: driving a Dodge. Mistake number 2: read number 1.
There is a current recall on MB Sprinter rear sensors
@@Kofi_Mensahs_BurnerAccount Not necessarily! I drive a 2009 Ram Laramie crew cab w/ 230K miles. My only issues so far were a fuel pump and a wheel hub. It’s been a good truck overall.
Or just take them out one by one to inspect no need for a expensive obd2 scanner
That's nothing. Don't buy a VW.
Great video. Cheap sensors are not made to oem standards and may not go deep enough to read accurate info to the ecm. Everything in this video is correct. Im simply pointing out a fact. If you are using a non oem cable and its current is acceptable and its new , however there is still an error remember this.
So in short the easy way to tell which wheel speed sensor is faulty is to first buy a 500 dollar scan tool, then......
Lol
if you have a scanner like that, can't you just scan the abs codes? I was looking for a test just using a multimeter maybe. thanks though
You know on those hall effect type sensors you can just use a DMM and test for AC voltage and spin the wheel by hand you will get some voltage around .5 volt or better you can repeat this test on each wheel and compare the differences. The bad one will be lower voltage or none at all. The clearance to the abs ring is critical to get the max volt reading without getting to close and hitting your sensor. Sensors can also be shimmed out or in more for tighter fitment. I've done a lot of look or Diesel tractor trailers with abs in the is how I checked sensors because scan tools for Bendix and webco are pricey and sometimes you just can't communicate what it is that's going on so you have to go back to the basics. Hall effect sensors are known as passive sensors. This is not the same test for what's called an active abs sensor which is different. Active sensors read from to different rings which are inside of the front hub bearing assembly, these sensor read a little differently and can't really be adjusted like the hall effect ones.
@@derekis1joedirt thanks. I actually was able to figure out that test with multimeter on a wheel or two. I ended up getting an elm327 adaptor and downloading ForScan and was able to get the abs data from there. Apparently my problem is U1900 CAN communication problem. It’s not a big deal but I do wish that ABS and parking brake indicators on my instrument cluster would go away. I’ve done some testing but everything looked good. Maybe I have a bad cluster. Replacing the cluster would be pretty far down my priority list at this time though.
@@Titans2138 I'm actually looking into an elm327 setup I wanna dual boot Linux on my 10 year old PC and use Linux for homebrewed open sourced goodness. I can't see spending money on software for a scanner it's crazy how expensive it is.
@@derekis1joedirt if have a Ford, it's amazing to me that Forscan is free. It shows you codes from all modules, performs self-tests, etc. Depends on your car, I can't change too much on my Crown Vic, but newer cars you can change a lot of things. The one thing I changed is that my doors now lock automatically when the car hits 5 mph which is pretty nice but mostly I just wanted to change something. I just got it for the ABS codes, really, but it'll show you way more live data than my cheap ancel scanner shows me, like wheel sensor data.
@@Titans2138 how did you get it for free?
The ads for you next videos cover the live data screen on the scanner. Cant see anything.
Can I use BimmerLink to find which one is bad? 2017 430i
You didn't mention that it could just be dirty as well and not bad so try cleaning it good and putting it back if you have the time and want to try and save the money on the part tho it is cheap as far as sensors go
These guys are da best!
Yeah thats all good but I don't have that kind of equipment thank you
I think this may be my issue also driver side feels like it sticks with a loud sticky pulling sound when taking off from a stop fast but taking off slowly it don't have that stuck loud sound it's a 2009 Pontiac vibe GT.. and now that I think about it I think it was a code at one time when AutoZone tested it when I was trying to figure out some other issues.. I will change mine and let you know. Fingers crossed
what if there's a fault with the tune ring, how to diagnose that .. :) that would be interesting to find out
How yo checo spped sensor on BMW e46 2001 320i
Where you guys live/from ? Keep it up Brother👍🏽
will a clicking CV cause ABS light to come on? if i drive it a bit, shut off engine, light stays off, pretty much until i restart car usually cold start. im a courier so i can turn on/off several times an hour and light keeps coming on, seems to stay on after car is hot or running temps
My ABS light isn't illuminated.... only the traction control symbol. Is it still going to be the speed sensors?
Will a 2020 rav 4 drive if the speed sensor gets broken ? And thank you ! You are so very helpful with my bmws
Could’ve gotten lose
Very helpful
what are the symptoms of a bad abs sensor...there's only videos of changing and diagnosing
Hi great video 👍🏼. I have a 2008 Honda Civic 1.8l and I’m having issues with the calibers sticking. I installed new calibers, slide pins, rotors, brake pads and both front brake line hoses. I’m still getting a stuck caliber on the driver side front. I also did a brake flush and filled the brake fluid reservoir to the correct full level but can not seem to find the problem. There’s no leaks around the master cylinder, no ABS or break light on and the brake lines look good. Brake fluid runs through the front brake lines properly. I’m stuck on this one. If you or anyone have any ideas on what my issue is can you please let me know. Thank you.
Did u check the sensor I think mine is sticking because of bad sensor but it’s not showing a light on dash. You don’t see a light on the dash so you think that’s not the problem could be wrong though
Abs sensor can lock on individual calipers
I would like to know if the problem already solved...
I think this may be my issue also driver side feels like it sticks with a loud sticky pulling sound when taking off from a stop fast but taking off slowly it don't have that stuck loud sound it's a 2009 Pontiac vibe GT.. and now that I think about it I think it was a code at one time when AutoZone tested it when I was trying to figure out some other issues.. I will change mine and let you know. Fingers crossed
So what kind of symptoms can you expect to see if you drive your car with that one ABS sensor reading 254 kph?
How do I know which Abs sensor is bad. 2 on the front and 2 on the rear.
Sounds like he's talking under water
"how to use an expensive diagnostic computer to detect bad abs sensor"
Q colores eran las barritas ?
On my Bmw 328i 2007 I get the code P0756 whenever I come to a stop or red light I get the transmission malfunction message but it only happens sometimes any ideas on whats causing this?
This guy rolls the rrrrr's so far back in his throat I can barely make out what he is saying.
Yes! While I admire his English skills (it's a motha to learn English) he needs to SLOW THE FRICK DOWN! He speaks faster than a native speaker!
I replaced my speed sensor on a 2019 Toyota Prius but now I need to do a Zero Point Calibration AutoZone says..
He should be an Auctioneer, talks so fast .
Cant see after he starts spinning the wheel because of the stupid advertisement on the screen.
Your 4 other videos to watch next are covering the screen at the last part of the video. 🤬
guys counter = 49
Hey, I drive a mercedes W204. witch scan tool you recommend me? I have a ABS sensor problem .
I couldn't see anything because of the other recommended video carts that you have added. Thumb down.
Bruh. Multimeter please?
Just replace all 4..its cheaper
Wow
Hey what is with the Bulgarian flag :)?
So this is rubbish. You can't tell if your wheel sensor is working, yourself. All you can do is get something like a maxicom to plug in and that is what can tell you. Most of us already know that, but don't have the money.
lol.
Stick to the subject
Yep, easy test. Buy a 6 or 700 dollar scanner and guess what?... scan it.
😂 😢😢
Its like "How to make your car run like new?"
Simple, buy a new car. 😂
Dump
why talk so much theres no need
Thanks for the info but plz stop saying “guys”!
Nobody has a computer. Give me a break.
*GUYS*
You know on those hall effect type sensors you can just use a DMM and test for AC voltage and spin the wheel by hand you will get some voltage around .5 volt or better you can repeat this test on each wheel and compare the differences. The bad one will be lower voltage or none at all. The clearance to the abs ring is critical to get the max volt reading without getting to close and hitting your sensor. Sensors can also be shimmed out or in more for tighter fitment. I've done a lot of look or Diesel tractor trailers with abs in the is how I checked sensors because scan tools for Bendix and webco are pricey and sometimes you just can't communicate what it is that's going on so you have to go back to the basics. Hall effect sensors are known as passive sensors. This is not the same test for what's called an active abs sensor which is different. Active sensors read from to different rings which are inside of the front hub bearing assembly, these sensor read a little differently and can't really be adjusted like the hall effect ones.
I WAS watching until the stupid promo video blocks jumped over the video I care about at the end!
I mean duh if we had a $5,000 computer we wouldn’t be watching this video. Of course that is a easy fix I wanna know how to without computer
You can get one like this for $500 on Amazon lol that’s what I’m gonna do 😂
@@markduran8135 exactly what I will do too lol. I will program my new key fob with it as well!
These guys are idiots simple get a multimeter or a test light find a ground and test the connectors on the sensors make sure the care is off if I the reading on the multimeter reads above .5 voltage you have a parasitic draw and should replace that part hopes this help guys!
Took my 370z to the tire shop and came back with abs light
Your garage reminds me of sbarro pizza.
😂😂😂😂
Great content but rubbish camera work (sorry) but can you just slow down as it makes me dizzy trying to follow where you're pointing it
Братлета, гледах много ваши клипове, с които отстраних много проблеми по своята кола. Подозирах че сте българи, но с този клип се убедих в това, защото видях трибагреника шо стените на гаража. Поздрави от България и продължавайте в същия дух!
Usless vid
Generally, this guy is extremely detailed and helpful. I was watching a vehicle specifc video and he suggested I find this video to explain how to test wheel speed sensor 😂
Can't see anything at the end when youtube puts crap over the whole screen 🤣🤣
I replace my replace sensor and Abs light and traction control light is on do u think is the bearing ?
Can this be edited so when you change the wheels to a different size the speed will be correct?.
Save time just buy ramps or take tire off one by one buy the tool for one bolt, remove all sensor check I found one was scrapped half way and tight in there come to find out inactive symbol bc of it
Does polarity matter?
👍👍
Subscribed.
Tire air pressure will throw off abs also
Good video, but he sounds like he’s under water.
Yeah, hard to listen to him speak but on the other hand, he's multi-lingual. Can you say the same? I know I can't
👑
I've had problems since getting my tires replaced. I've paid 3300 dollars in repairs, and it still is shaking, and the car is slowing down when I'm driving sometimes. I think it's a wheel censor, what is the name of the machine you used to test the censors?
Speed sensor would not cause it this problem.
Whee balance
Thanks 👍