Like and subscribe for more! All parts, tools and more information in the video description. If this video helped you, please support the channel by clicking "Thanks"! We also have memberships to our channel with great perks! ua-cam.com/channels/0HkS2-1Tk1ULQJj3uGbjdw.htmljoin Thanks for watching!
Thank you endlessly for this video! For those of us basically illiterate, knowing that ABS is actually the wheel speed sensor is so important to diagnose issues especially when it seems like a ECM problem throwing torque and transmission codes...computer isn't receiving the proper wheel speed information!! This video just saved me thousands and probably a new transmission...thank you!!
This video was excellent! Thank you! This is the best video on this I have seen so far. Clear, concise, and useful information. It helped me because I was also working on a GM car, so the connectors are in the same locations, even though the car is much older than the one you worked on, it's a 1994 model. Also, I have the same multi-meter you have. The ABS light came on, but I did not have a way to check the codes in the computer. So I just began going around the car, checking the resistance and voltage of each wheel sensor until I found one where the readings didn't look right. In my case, there was infinite resistance on the left front wheel speed sensor. Once I figured that part out, I took the wheel off and measured the resistance right at the connector closest to the sensor rather than under the one under the hood. Again - infinite resistance - so there's an open circuit in the wheel speed sensor - it's not the wiring. I decided to jumper the terminals on the connector going back up to the computer, to remove the resistance in the circuit. Then I turned the ignition on, without starting the car, and sure enough the ABS light went out after 2 or 3 seconds! So that's what it is! A bad left front wheel speed sensor. Unfortunately this means replacing the wheel bearing - but at least I'm no longer wondering what the problem is. Thank you!
Amazing detective work! 90% of effort is sometimes the diagnosis, well done there! Sometimes, depending on the car, the sensor can be removed with an allen wrench or something similar and you then wont need to replace the entire bearing. Something to consider if that option is available to you!
Great video. One additional test that [I believe] could discriminate between sensor versus wheel assembly itself (in case where turning wheel fails to generate AC voltage) is to pass a magnet over the sensor itself to see if it generates a signal. I have seen this performed using an Abs scanner. It *MUST* therefore generate the AC voltage which would be detectable using the multimeter on AC volts.
Excellent video. This is the first clear and concise explanation I've found for testing passive sensors. Used it to diagnose a bad sensor on a '06 Torrent.
If you have this specific Harbor Freight red multimeter: The probes on this specific multimeter work in the TOP two ports OR the BOTTOM two ports for resistance (ohms) and AC voltage. All multimeters are different. Check the manual for your multimeter if you're unsure.
It works because there is a shunt (beefy low-resistance resistor) between the 5A input and COM. All the measurements you take when connected as in the video pass through this shunt. If you need accurate measurements the black lead should be connected to the COM jack.
I just tested my jeep's ABS sensors with one Croc to Croc lead and a multimeter in mA Mode. Connect the sensor -ve to the negative of the cars ABS receptacle using the Croc lead. Then the two lead's of the DMM in current format do the same between the sensor +ve and the receptacle +ve thereby connecting the sensor through the meter to the car. With the ignition on and by rotating the wheel of that sensor the mA jumps between 7 and 11mA the changing current being the indication that it is fine. If all the sensors test OK clean the connectors with a de-oxidising switch cleaner. I had one dry connector that caused my ABS light to come on. These appear to be hall effect sensor's. Hopefully my comment helps someone
I hade the same problem, after a garrage replaced the hub driveshaft to no avail, I removed 1 machien screw to remove the sensor which goes into the hub, cleaned the corosion between the hub and sencer, replaced problem gone xxx
I have a Mercedes CLS 500. I changed the bearing and hub on the front. Both sides left side is reading sporadically even when not in motion with key on right front I’m getting nothing. I changed the wheel speed sensor as well. Nothing I put an original hub on there with another original sensor and still nothing, by the way, I do have active because when I check the female harness to the ABS with Keon, I’m getting a reading of 24v. Any recommendations or want to check next would be so much appreciated and thank you for that that video
Sporadically sounds a little confusing and hard to troubleshoot! Perhaps plot of a graph and get some analogue readings with different RPMs. If it's only one corner, then follow the wiring and do a continuity test, that's probably the cheaper option to get started with a diagnosis
@@TutorialGenius Thank You so much, and by the way, Sorry for the Typos... :/ I just proof read my message. So just to be clear, If I have an active system should I do these test with the sensor plugged in and backprobed?
@@NDLAP66 If you're plotting a graph via obdii port, you don't need to probe anything. Just plug a bluedriver or ELM dongle into the diagnostics port and read off the sensor data
Thank you for making this video as my 2012 Vauxhall/Opal Zafira B has the TCS dash light on when car is being driven I am looking for a fix for it. My sensors are built into the hubs. I am however confused as at 3.35 you state "this hub is the problem, we know that because we used our scanner to do that" ??? At 7.02 " Suspected bad sensor is hooked up to AC voltage and at 7.17 you are getting "no voltage at all which is a very good indicator this sensor is dead". I am hoping which you can tell me which of your readings I should take to be able to ascertain which of my 4 hubs have a faulty sensor within them. Thank you.
hello friend I bought an abs sensor and I measured it at Omio and it gave me 525 and I measured the sensors of my car because the abs light is on and they measured 3226 other 2465 do you think they are wrong?
Used an old otc genisys to diagnose my 05 Vue. It's very handy.. can view all 4 sensors reading on a graph form. Front one voltage was reading lower than all the others and it's causing abs to activate at low speeds. Now I have to figure out why.
Tengo un problema con mí Audi TT 2018 en un momento que tenía que frenar dé golpe a los 15 minutos de proseguir la luz del ABS me encendió junto a varias luces y al principio él auto sé bloqueo y el volante sé puso rígido cuando trate dé seguir sé liberaron las ruedas pero el sistema quedó encendido, qué pueda ser?
Very helpful video. I'm having a nightmare with weak braking on one wheel. Everything has been changed, disc, pads etc Maybe it could be the ABS sensor.
Check your rubber line near the affected wheel. Also sometimes there are metal surrounding the rubber line where it is fastened in different places. The metal corrodes and squeezes the rubber line restricting flow
I mentioned in the video briefly, but just pop another wheel off and compare the results. On the unlikely chance you have two bad sensors, you always have 2 more corners :)
Thank you for this video, this is my current situation on my Accord 2012, I already tested all my 4 Speed Sensors and all of them have resistance but not voltage, my OBD 2 Scanner gets error connecting to the ABS System. What this sounds to you? I hope you can help
Hi. I have a 2011 Kia Sorento. Speedo has stopped working. P2159. There’s no abs code. I can see a wheel speed from all sensors when I use my scanner. Any ideas?
I think maybe you are mixing up two things. Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) and wheel speed sensor (WSS) [maybe] The vehicle speed sensor measures the overall speed of the vehicle, while the wheel speed sensor measures the speed of each individual wheel. Determining what you're trying to achieve with help with the diagnosis to the problem I wouldnt know anything about the nissan micra k12 without loading up my service manual software it takes a good 10 minutes to boot up lol
Hello. I have Mercedes and my diagnostic tool read left abs sensor is defect. I buy new one and have same problem. Later i change the abs sensor, the defect one on right side and the working on left. On diagnostic read right side is defect. I bayed 2 new and one used, the problem not gone. My old defect read 2700ohm and the working read 2800ohm. Any idea of my problem?
Great explanation. I've a skoda octavia 2008 and the abs and esp lights come on after about 10mins of driving. Could this also mean a sensor needs to be replaced or is it something more sinister??
Thank you for the very clear and helpful video. Do you happen to know what abs speed sensor' resistance and voltage readings range should be for Toyota Corolla LE 2015 also is it active or passive?
@@DR19X thanks alot. Do you mind telling me what were your symptons amd diagnostic approach?. I have a 2013 corolla amd it shows abs code for right front tire and upon testing voltage of wires going to connector it shows voltage in one wire but not the other one so i think the wire is broken or short somewhere
Yes you can if you have an expensive scanner that pulls ABS codes on your specific year make and model of car. But if that reports 0, then what? I imagine you would load up this video and diagnose further
As soon as a multimeter starts telling you the battery is low, readings start to go out of the window as the measurement reference starts to go out of calibration. I’ve seen people using multimeters and wonder how their 12v car battery is giving out 18v until I got them to change the battery 😂
Hi there, do you AC or DC to test Auto voltage? Because in my understanding, AC testing is strictly for Home electricity, where's the DC is for Auto only
@@AfternoonPlay I'm not so sure! To produce ac voltage there would need to be magnets setup with their poles in opposite directions. A typical rotor has holes or slots being read by a sensor. To me it seems more likely the sensor is reading a break in a dc signal which could look similar to an ac waveform. This type of signal is sometimes referred to as a PWM signal (pulsed width modulation). A cheap (less than a 100 dollars) ocilloscope could read the signal coming out of the sensor better than a voltmeter. A big socket on the hubs center nut connected to a drill to spin the hub with the ocilloscope attached to the sensor might show a waveform if it's working properly. (Passive sensor test) This is my guess.
@@tenlittleindians Interesting. I have an old Hameg 20MHz scope and never considered hooking it up to the hub’s speed sensor. Thanks for the information.
On a Nissan Micra 2005 I got 1.2 mega ohms which is very high. Hopefully it`s broken because I `ve just changed the wheel bearing. Might plug it in later and spin that wheel. I tryed waving a magnet across and got nothing. Cheers for the video.
@@russpeaknuckel9525 Glad you got worked out. For anyone else out there check the back side of your brake rotors as well.. there is a ring that the speed sensor needs to sense and if it is covered in grease, dirt and grime it will cause a problem. Simply clean it
As I understand it there are two ABS wheel sensor faults. One when you turn the ignition on and the ABS dashboard light remains hard on. Two when you turn the ignition on the ABS dashboard light goes out but then when the car begins to move the ABS light comes on. The first fault I assume its not seeing the resistance and the second fault it is seeing the resistance but not the AC Voltage
@@TutorialGenius Yes, the old sensors and the new sensors I bought show No Resistance when tested...Dodge Service told me these sensors do not show resistance.
8:10 - Wait, wait, how do you measuring the voltage? Black wire must be connecting to COM port (COM - common). I wrong use the multimeter all my life :D
I'm about to junk my 2012 dodge charger because don't even god can fix a rear left sensor and the crappy car is in safe mode since that. Replace Sensor, Axle, ABS module, Entire ABS module, and no way. I have normal read from 4 sensors like is ok but remain saying that have issues in rear left sensor and limp mode. IDK what else to do.
No on this multimeter, doesn't matter. As already mentioned in the pinned comment: If you have this specific Harbor Freight red multimeter: The probes on this specific multimeter work in the TOP two ports OR the BOTTOM two ports for resistance (ohms) and AC voltage. All multimeters are different. Check the manual for your multimeter if you're unsure.
Did you watch the video!? You test a passive wheel speed sensor for AC, NOT DC. You are confused because you're thinking of a car battery and just running with that. If you watch the video all the way through, it explains it in detail.
Somebody didn't read the description or the comment If you have this specific Harbor Freight red multimeter: The probes on this specific multimeter work in the TOP two ports OR the BOTTOM two ports for resistance (ohms) and AC voltage. All multimeters are different. Check the manual for your multimeter if you're unsure. oh, and... LOL
Like and subscribe for more! All parts, tools and more information in the video description.
If this video helped you, please support the channel by clicking "Thanks"!
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Thanks for watching!
Hi from AL
Wow... 5 minutes in and I finally learn how to test the sensor...
You're welcome!
Thank you endlessly for this video! For those of us basically illiterate, knowing that ABS is actually the wheel speed sensor is so important to diagnose issues especially when it seems like a ECM problem throwing torque and transmission codes...computer isn't receiving the proper wheel speed information!! This video just saved me thousands and probably a new transmission...thank you!!
Glad it helped! :) I hope you subscribe soon!
Helpful video. Many other similar vids on UA-cam don't really show how we should be adjusting the mustimeter to get these results! Thank you
Thanks for watching! Please like and subscribe if useful. Thanks!
This video was excellent! Thank you! This is the best video on this I have seen so far. Clear, concise, and useful information. It helped me because I was also working on a GM car, so the connectors are in the same locations, even though the car is much older than the one you worked on, it's a 1994 model. Also, I have the same multi-meter you have. The ABS light came on, but I did not have a way to check the codes in the computer. So I just began going around the car, checking the resistance and voltage of each wheel sensor until I found one where the readings didn't look right. In my case, there was infinite resistance on the left front wheel speed sensor. Once I figured that part out, I took the wheel off and measured the resistance right at the connector closest to the sensor rather than under the one under the hood. Again - infinite resistance - so there's an open circuit in the wheel speed sensor - it's not the wiring. I decided to jumper the terminals on the connector going back up to the computer, to remove the resistance in the circuit. Then I turned the ignition on, without starting the car, and sure enough the ABS light went out after 2 or 3 seconds! So that's what it is! A bad left front wheel speed sensor. Unfortunately this means replacing the wheel bearing - but at least I'm no longer wondering what the problem is. Thank you!
Amazing detective work! 90% of effort is sometimes the diagnosis, well done there!
Sometimes, depending on the car, the sensor can be removed with an allen wrench or something similar and you then wont need to replace the entire bearing. Something to consider if that option is available to you!
Great video. One additional test that [I believe] could discriminate between sensor versus wheel assembly itself (in case where turning wheel fails to generate AC voltage) is to pass a magnet over the sensor itself to see if it generates a signal. I have seen this performed using an Abs scanner. It *MUST* therefore generate the AC voltage which would be detectable using the multimeter on AC volts.
Excellent video. This is the first clear and concise explanation I've found for testing passive sensors. Used it to diagnose a bad sensor on a '06 Torrent.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching! I thought the same, so I made this video haha!
Watching from France..You are one among the best on mechanical explanation on You tube..Slowly but Sure..Thanks Sir
Merci beaucoup ami! :)
Thanks man. You are the best at explaining.
If you have this specific Harbor Freight red multimeter:
The probes on this specific multimeter work in the TOP two ports OR the BOTTOM two ports for resistance (ohms) and AC voltage.
All multimeters are different. Check the manual for your multimeter if you're unsure.
Thanks for a great video. I am glad you clarified the business about the ports because I was confused.
It works because there is a shunt (beefy low-resistance resistor) between the 5A input and COM. All the measurements you take when connected as in the video pass through this shunt. If you need accurate measurements the black lead should be connected to the COM jack.
I just tested my jeep's ABS sensors with one Croc to Croc lead and a multimeter in mA Mode. Connect the sensor -ve to the negative of the cars ABS receptacle using the Croc lead. Then the two lead's of the DMM in current format do the same between the sensor +ve and the receptacle +ve thereby connecting the sensor through the meter to the car. With the ignition on and by rotating the wheel of that sensor the mA jumps between 7 and 11mA the changing current being the indication that it is fine. If all the sensors test OK clean the connectors with a de-oxidising switch cleaner. I had one dry connector that caused my ABS light to come on. These appear to be hall effect sensor's. Hopefully my comment helps someone
Very good-saved me a lot of time. Thanks
Wow, you did a very nice job explaining this. Well done! Thank you!
You're very welcome! I'm glad it was useful! :)
Thanks!
No problem! :) Thanks you for the donation! 🔥🔥
Great dialogue man. Good job 👌. Thanks.
Glad it helped! Thanks for the kind comments!
Thanks for bringing such exceptional clarity to your videos.
I hade the same problem, after a garrage replaced the hub driveshaft to no avail, I removed 1 machien screw to remove the sensor which goes into the hub, cleaned the corosion between the hub and sencer, replaced problem gone xxx
Thanks. Useful video.I tried & noti gone.
Thank you for the informative video 👍 I’ll give it a whirl on my 94 Lexus ES300.
Awesome! Good luck and thank you for watching!
Excellent video!!! Very well explained. Thanks
Glad it was helpful! 🔥😊
Awesome info budd, much love!!!!!! This is going to help me so much tomrrow
Thanks for sharing , blessings to you brother
You're welcome! :) Same to you!
This is handy my abs sensor had resistance but wasn't putting out any voltage when I was spinning the hub so I know I need a replacement
Great to hear it's diagnosed! 👑
Thank you .best explanation
Glad it was helpful!
Great video , very clear thanks for sharing .
Thanks for watching!
I have a Mercedes CLS 500. I changed the bearing and hub on the front. Both sides left side is reading sporadically even when not in motion with key on right front I’m getting nothing. I changed the wheel speed sensor as well. Nothing I put an original hub on there with another original sensor and still nothing, by the way, I do have active because when I check the female harness to the ABS with Keon, I’m getting a reading of 24v. Any recommendations or want to check next would be so much appreciated and thank you for that that video
Sporadically sounds a little confusing and hard to troubleshoot! Perhaps plot of a graph and get some analogue readings with different RPMs. If it's only one corner, then follow the wiring and do a continuity test, that's probably the cheaper option to get started with a diagnosis
@@TutorialGenius Thank You so much, and by the way, Sorry for the Typos... :/ I just proof read my message.
So just to be clear, If I have an active system should I do these test with the sensor plugged in and backprobed?
@@NDLAP66 If you're plotting a graph via obdii port, you don't need to probe anything. Just plug a bluedriver or ELM dongle into the diagnostics port and read off the sensor data
Thank you for making this video as my 2012 Vauxhall/Opal Zafira B has the TCS dash light on when car is being driven I am looking for a fix for it. My sensors are built into the hubs. I am however confused as at 3.35 you state "this hub is the problem, we know that because we used our scanner to do that" ??? At 7.02 " Suspected bad sensor is hooked up to AC voltage and at 7.17 you are getting "no voltage at all which is a very good indicator this sensor is dead". I am hoping which you can tell me which of your readings I should take to be able to ascertain which of my 4 hubs have a faulty sensor within them. Thank you.
hello friend I bought an abs sensor and I measured it at Omio and it gave me 525 and I measured the sensors of my car because the abs light is on and they measured 3226 other 2465 do you think they are wrong?
Used an old otc genisys to diagnose my 05 Vue. It's very handy.. can view all 4 sensors reading on a graph form. Front one voltage was reading lower than all the others and it's causing abs to activate at low speeds. Now I have to figure out why.
Good luck with it! Let us know how you get on
Great video thanks for making it 👍
Glad you enjoyed it! 💯
Tengo un problema con mí Audi TT 2018 en un momento que tenía que frenar dé golpe a los 15 minutos de proseguir la luz del ABS me encendió junto a varias luces y al principio él auto sé bloqueo y el volante sé puso rígido cuando trate dé seguir sé liberaron las ruedas pero el sistema quedó encendido, qué pueda ser?
Very helpful video. I'm having a nightmare with weak braking on one wheel. Everything has been changed, disc, pads etc Maybe it could be the ABS sensor.
Have you checked the brake lines and brake calipers?
@@TutorialGenius yes and hsve also changed the caliper
@@pauliecabs brake lines?
@@TutorialGenius yes changed flexible hoses, no visible problems with the other lines. Will test the sensor today. Thanks for your suggestions
Check your rubber line near the affected wheel. Also sometimes there are metal surrounding the rubber line where it is fastened in different places. The metal corrodes and squeezes the rubber line restricting flow
great explanation but I don't understand your meter..looks like it's set to test current...I would have expected the black probe to be in COM?
Read the pinned comment
I also believe the leads are not in the correct ports for testing.
Nice video, I’m wondering where can I see how much ohms and voltage my car should have. I look in the manual and can’t find it. Thanks for the video.
I mentioned in the video briefly, but just pop another wheel off and compare the results.
On the unlikely chance you have two bad sensors, you always have 2 more corners :)
Thank you for this video, this is my current situation on my Accord 2012, I already tested all my 4 Speed Sensors and all of them have resistance but not voltage, my OBD 2 Scanner gets error connecting to the ABS System. What this sounds to you? I hope you can help
Might sound silly, but you gave the car power?
What voltage readings should be going to the sensor?
That depends on many things. Year, make a model for a start!
Hi. I have a 2011 Kia Sorento. Speedo has stopped working. P2159. There’s no abs code. I can see a wheel speed from all sensors when I use my scanner. Any ideas?
Speedo reads of the transmission. Not the wheels sensors
@@tickerminjarez3044 Not on all cars. Some use the wheel speed (ABS) sensors. This is also used for the cruise control speed regulation on my cars.
@@geoffhaylock6848 it happened to be the ABS that failed. Speedo read off it.
How do you know which sensor the car uses for your speedometer? I got 4 on my nissan micra k12. Service manual is not helping me unfortunatly
I think maybe you are mixing up two things.
Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) and wheel speed sensor (WSS) [maybe]
The vehicle speed sensor measures the overall speed of the vehicle, while the wheel speed sensor measures the speed of each individual wheel.
Determining what you're trying to achieve with help with the diagnosis to the problem
I wouldnt know anything about the nissan micra k12 without loading up my service manual software it takes a good 10 minutes to boot up lol
Hello. I have Mercedes and my diagnostic tool read left abs sensor is defect. I buy new one and have same problem. Later i change the abs sensor, the defect one on right side and the working on left. On diagnostic read right side is defect. I bayed 2 new and one used, the problem not gone. My old defect read 2700ohm and the working read 2800ohm. Any idea of my problem?
what codes?
C327100, C326600 and C111700
Great explanation. I've a skoda octavia 2008 and the abs and esp lights come on after about 10mins of driving. Could this also mean a sensor needs to be replaced or is it something more sinister??
The video pretty much answers your question! I'm not sure what else to add!
Very good information.... good video
Thanks!
While you tested resistance 1758 ohms showed on your multimeter. Out of range, right?
Please help; the ignition needs to be on , or you have to crank the engine? Thank you
Are your sensors passive?
@@TutorialGenius very good question pal ? What's the difference between an active or a passive sensor? Regards
Did you watch the video???@@silver120mp
@@TutorialGenius yes I did, the abs fitted on my car is a 2 wire connection type
@@TutorialGenius I ' ve got a 2007 vauxhall astra h mk5 petrol 1.6 ; any help would be very appreciate
Thank you for the very clear and helpful video. Do you happen to know what abs speed sensor' resistance and voltage readings range should be for Toyota Corolla LE 2015 also is it active or passive?
Did u find out?
@@DR19X thanks alot. Do you mind telling me what were your symptons amd diagnostic approach?. I have a 2013 corolla amd it shows abs code for right front tire and upon testing voltage of wires going to connector it shows voltage in one wire but not the other one so i think the wire is broken or short somewhere
Thank you
You can use obd2 to read abs
Yes you can if you have an expensive scanner that pulls ABS codes on your specific year make and model of car.
But if that reports 0, then what? I imagine you would load up this video and diagnose further
Hall effect sensors are passive sensors. They need a supply of current to work. Inductive is an active sensor. It creates its own current.
I'm pretty sure I already covered that on the video
3:52
Thank you.
As soon as a multimeter starts telling you the battery is low, readings start to go out of the window as the measurement reference starts to go out of calibration.
I’ve seen people using multimeters and wonder how their 12v car battery is giving out 18v until I got them to change the battery 😂
Always good to check the battery!
Hi there, do you AC or DC to test Auto voltage? Because in my understanding, AC testing is strictly for Home electricity, where's the DC is for Auto only
Spinning the wheel creates a small AC (Alternating Current) in the mV (millivolt) range.
I have a video on Electricity 101, I highly recommend you watch it! :)
ua-cam.com/video/IE5u7_ZjHk8/v-deo.html
The comment above is correct!
@@AfternoonPlay I'm not so sure! To produce ac voltage there would need to be magnets setup with their poles in opposite directions.
A typical rotor has holes or slots being read by a sensor. To me it seems more likely the sensor is reading a break in a dc signal which could look similar to an ac waveform.
This type of signal is sometimes referred to as a PWM signal (pulsed width modulation).
A cheap (less than a 100 dollars) ocilloscope could read the signal coming out of the sensor better than a voltmeter.
A big socket on the hubs center nut connected to a drill to spin the hub with the ocilloscope attached to the sensor might show a waveform if it's working properly. (Passive sensor test) This is my guess.
@@tenlittleindians Interesting. I have an old Hameg 20MHz scope and never considered hooking it up to the hub’s speed sensor. Thanks for the information.
On a Nissan Micra 2005 I got 1.2 mega ohms which is very high. Hopefully it`s broken because I `ve just changed the wheel bearing. Might plug it in later and spin that wheel. I tryed waving a magnet across and got nothing. Cheers for the video.
Ok so I put the bearing in using a vice and broke the magnetic ring. I need a 30 tonne press.
Would worn out brake pads cause the TCS and ESC lights to come on ? Thanks !
No but badly warn wheel bearings can cause abs light
@@flyinryan50 Thanks, but I found a leaking brake line was the problem.
@@russpeaknuckel9525 Glad you got worked out. For anyone else out there check the back side of your brake rotors as well.. there is a ring that the speed sensor needs to sense and if it is covered in grease, dirt and grime it will cause a problem. Simply clean it
i changed out sensor and still says sensor wheel bearing is good?
I'm not following... You changed it and it's good? That's good right?
do these also account for you current speed read?
No sir. That would be a output shaft speed sensor on the transaxle
As I understand it there are two ABS wheel sensor faults. One when you turn the ignition on and the ABS dashboard light remains hard on. Two when you turn the ignition on the ABS dashboard light goes out but then when the car begins to move the ABS light comes on. The first fault I assume its not seeing the resistance and the second fault it is seeing the resistance but not the AC Voltage
Not quite.
But this video helps explain that a bit better: ua-cam.com/video/pX2ofaFA1Sg/v-deo.html
What scanner did you use ??
This is a muiltimeter
@@TutorialGenius when you mentioned you scanned the car what type of scanner did you use to determine the location of the bad sensor?
@@unclejun4328 oh gotcha! ua-cam.com/video/tkl784T_aYc/v-deo.html
You left out something in your instructions.. How do you know which one to connect positive and negative to?
It doesn't matter, just ignore the minus sign
Why do both my new sensors show no resistance?
That's a good question! Active sensor?
@@TutorialGenius Yes, the old sensors and the new sensors I bought show No Resistance when tested...Dodge Service told me these sensors do not show resistance.
Crocodile clips in Australia alligator clips in the USA :) great video!
Crocodile in UK too!
@@TutorialGeniusLocation Location 😊
what make car are you working with here?
See description :)
Very clear and concise definitely got a like and subscribe From me
Thanks, good info, I’m off to do some testing now! (Nice accent btw)
thanks for watching!! good luck!
good vid, i got same cheap volt meter you got. do y'all have harbor frights across the pond? that cheap volt works great.
Which way across the pond? haha
great video ! you deserve a subscribe !! so i did
8:10 - Wait, wait, how do you measuring the voltage? Black wire must be connecting to COM port (COM - common).
I wrong use the multimeter all my life :D
This multimeter: it doesnt matter
I guess you missed the pinned comment and the video description where i already mention this
@@TutorialGenius OK I missed.
THX!
another very easy way is to just get a generic obdII bluetooth dongle and connect to your phone, then monitor live data on the wheel speed sensor.
Do you have a recommendation or example of what you mean?
I'm about to junk my 2012 dodge charger because don't even god can fix a rear left sensor and the crappy car is in safe mode since that. Replace Sensor, Axle, ABS module, Entire ABS module, and no way. I have normal read from 4 sensors like is ok but remain saying that have issues in rear left sensor and limp mode. IDK what else to do.
You sound like the guy from Fascinating Horror YT channel
Our accents are about 100miles apart :)
An English man in America 😊
Why AC volts? Shouldn’t it be DC since cars operate off of a battery and batteries are DC.
It generates AC, not DC.
Just because a car battery is DC, it doesn't mean the whole car is restricted to DC circuits
One of your test leads should have been in the COM socket on the multimeter.
No on this multimeter, doesn't matter. As already mentioned in the pinned comment:
If you have this specific Harbor Freight red multimeter:
The probes on this specific multimeter work in the TOP two ports OR the BOTTOM two ports for resistance (ohms) and AC voltage.
All multimeters are different. Check the manual for your multimeter if you're unsure.
changed abs sensors still abs light changed speed sensor in transferr case problem fixed
Gloves, gloves, gloves 😮. Otherwise a very well explained video.
Men don't need gloves! 😄
Thanks for watching!
Gloves are for princess or soft males jajaja
2600 nice
jump to 3m, 1.6-1.7Kohm
👍👍🍺🍺🍺🍺
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nice video and well explained but Cars use DC, Direct Current not AC current
Did you watch the video!? You test a passive wheel speed sensor for AC, NOT DC. You are confused because you're thinking of a car battery and just running with that. If you watch the video all the way through, it explains it in detail.
The sensor is just a magnet and the castillated rotor which spins creates a alternating current that the computer monitors.
Thank you for clarification. Cheers
HELLO!! THE SENSOR........SENSOR.....The sensors on that ABS system generate AC current. Knock sensors also generate AC current.
Wrong its not rectified dc.Its of a magnetic coil generated wave.
there’s no ac here - we dOnEdnO stinkN AC, it’s DC👋
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Strange comment
You have connected multimeter in the wrong way. Multimeter side move black wire to the bottom connector, the one that say COM. LOL
Somebody didn't read the description or the comment
If you have this specific Harbor Freight red multimeter:
The probes on this specific multimeter work in the TOP two ports OR the BOTTOM two ports for resistance (ohms) and AC voltage.
All multimeters are different. Check the manual for your multimeter if you're unsure.
oh, and... LOL
This video could be 1 minute. Too much talking.
This is my channel with my videos. You are welcome to create your own channel and do it your own way :)
@@TutorialGeniusgreat video. Thanks for taking to time to make it and post it. I learnt a lot about a cars ABS sensors 👍