LOL I am so glad I made this vid back in the day. Keeping these engines alive and happy is a challenge. I sometimes have to look at my old videos for ideas and solutions to keep my cars alive and happy! LOL. We are in Corona Quarantine and I am trying to keep my sanitie GOD Bless!!!
Thanks for sharing the information I’m barely getting into the V dub motors I got a 2232 motor. I’m working on and these carburetors are just popping and popping so this information does give a little bit of help.
I am just getting in the vw game at age 29 and you are not kidding keeping these things happy is a challenge. I'm learning as I'm going and you and the original builder of my sand rail.have been the two best sources of information. My current situation with my vw is covered in this video I believe so thank you, thank you, thank you for all of your information.
@@TheEZGZ got wrapped up with pulling the carbs just about to nothing. There was gunk in places I hadn't cleaned before including the " trash can" good grief it had allot of goodies in there! Can't sync and tune because it is 230 a.m. here in the mitten and my neighbors might not appreciate that. Thanks again!
Only dealt with Del'Orto with my son's KTM 50 and I think they are good running carbs. I like the tips you showed on this monster!! I think the traps you fell in to are very common place among guys like us because you lead your self from one clue to another. Great job in tracking down the real issue!! Ignition, Fuel, Timing can be a very confusing mix!!!
Funny that dizzy centre brush....has a lot to answer for...I have a vw trike in the workshop similar to the carb set up your have and a similar problem. .yep you guessed it dizzy brush missing? ?? Pop a new one in and engine running great.....have a good day. ..Cheers William
Have a 2002 mustang that did the same thing. Ran fine when at ide, cursing speed, but when the pedal was to the metal it would buck, hesitate, and loose power. Took us a long time to solve the problem. It was a bad coaxial fuel line that was inhibiting flow as the inside of the fuel line was peeling and blocking flow to the fuel rail/injectors. Replaced the fuel pump, filter, and some electronics before we came to the resolution.
Good info on the carb. I am fighting the idle with a set of side draft Weber 40 DCOE's. Working on a '77 Vette with a built magnum Chevy 350 with B&M blower. Sometimes it can idle great other times not so good. Took the top of the carb off and cleaned everything i could see even though it wasn't looking dirty. The car sat for 5 years The only thing I have not opened is what I think would be the accelarator pump jet holder but I dont think that would effect idle quality. Timing, vacuum and spark are all good. Goes down the highway just fine, no engine miss. Got any ideas please let me know? Just subscribed to your channel, good stuff
I just bought a Honda Goldwing chopper with dual Dellorto carbs. I've never owned Volkswagens or dune buggies, so I was nervous about messing with them until I watched this video. Thanks for the information. My gas tank is full of sludge and rust and the bike came with no fuel filter or screen so they're plugged up. But I think I can handle it after watching this video. Thanks again
@@TheEZGZ it's just gravity flow from the motorcycle gas tank above the carbs, no fuel pump or pressure regulator. Seems to work pretty good. It is a cheap ratty bike and I'm fixing a lot of small issues but it's a blast. I did take it down the road once and it boils the tire in every gear!
@@TheEZGZ rebuilt the carbs and she runs real good but one of the floats was flooding, so I thought. Kept adjusting float height and finally weighed the floats, one was heavy so I ordered new ones from Italy. Long story short, I was chasing a flooding condition finally figured out it was the little seal between the inlet valve SEAT and upper carb body ( I call it a needle valve). The nylon seal was faulty so l replaced it with an o-ring. Fixed it
Check your gasket when you take the top half off, my DCOE just near baffle plate dirt was coming in because the gasket was old and thinner on that side. I can see some dirt 7:23 near the screw hole. Also with the dizzy cap hold it down then undo both clips, I undid mine one side first and the cap moved and broke the carbon tip, it was only a year old, now I hold it in place and undo the clips one at a time.
Thanks for the info I got it running but it will only run ( idle) for about 15 seconds u have to feather the throttle. I pulled carb apart and cleaned everything. All gaskets and o rings are in nice shape. Any idea what to look for now? It seems to be starving for fuel. I undone the fuel line from the pump to carb and spun motor over it pumped fuel at a decent rate. So I hooked it all back up. Any other things to look for ? My rail sat for about 2 years in touched. Thanks
Thanks so much for your videos! I have just purchased a brand new set of Weber 40 IDF carbs for my 71 1600 type 3 (not FI). It had a second hand set on it but I didn't know the history of them and I found I could just never get them dialled in properly, they leaked a bit and so on. I have replaced them with the brand new ones and now no matter what I do, it appears to run on 2 cylinders, seemingly on the RHS. It idled stupidly rich, an eventually leaked fuel out a join in the exhaust on the right side. I rechecked float height and swapped out the needle and seat valve. This made no difference. I've since changed spark plugs (checked for spark at the end of the leads) put the old IDF on and the problem persists. I've balanced them to pull the same amount of air but can't adjust idle mixture as turning the screws has no effect. I've also noticed if I cover the carb there's a small amount of suction but almost no change in the engine. If I cover just one of the chokes on the LHS carb the engine stops. It also sucks much harder. As far as I know the very last time I drove the car, it drove fine. Short of putting all the original equipment (dual solex carbs) back on, I don't know what to do. The things I haven't yet checked...changing the LHS carb, compression testing the cylinders and changing out the new jets for different ones. I have also noticed when I mash the throttle fuel dribbles out from around the sides of the pump jets on the RHS new carb. I know this is a long message but you're so incredibly experienced, passionate and knowledgable, I really don't know where else to go. Thanks in advance!
sorry your having so much problem. The fuel pressure needs to be around 2.5 PSI. Best to use a low pressure electric pump with seperete regulator. You need a synch tool to measure the air flow. www.cbperformance.com/product-p/6534.htm No carbs run out of the box but they have all the parts. The jets they came with should be OK
fantastic video, i have the same carb set up and i also have the exact same issue you were speaking about the popping and snapping(i tried everything you said too, i even sent them both away for full service £400 they look like new but yet i have the same issue. doing my head in Grrrrrrrrrrrrr
Ok, there is one thing I left out. On the top of the idle circuit is a small brass insert that allows air into the idle curcuit. It's on the top of the carb body and is easy to overlook. Very small hole in a brass insert. Junk that get's buy your air filter and lays on the deck get caught in there. Most times if you remove the idle needle and blow air in there it pops out the blockage or even spraying brake clean in the needle valve will lift it out. If it's really stuck in there you might have to stick a sewing needle in there or a strand of copper wire that's small enough to dislodge it. Snapping and popping is always a lean condition and the plugged up port can do this even if the idle jet is clean as a whistle. Don't give up. When you solve the problem you will be so energized and happy and your engine will love you for it. Sometimes a bad lean condition will wreck a spark plug so you might want to swap a plug with another cylinder and see if the symptom follows. I know you can find the blockage. God Bless
I have seen them on mid engine sand cars. You can use brake fluid. Since it is such low pressure you can just unscrew the line at the carb end and hold you finger over it like a check valve while somebody pushes the gas. Just like brake bleeding. If you go back to cable be sure you plan it out carefully before you scrap the liquid. You have lots of options. I don't like running it in any sort of sleeve or guide. Even mores cable will eventually jam with dirt.
Wonderful viedos couldnt ask for better. I have a question on my rail I have a dellorto 45. It runs but has trouble at idle but the main question is it has a "hydraulic" ( liquid fed) throttle. From the pedal to the carb its a tube with liquid in it. Any idea how it works or to bleed it? I'm almost ready to swap it to cable my rail is a project I bought a while back and just now getting into it any help would be great. Thanks.
Love the carb tips, Can you some advise? Last weekend my car was running ok. It idled strong, but had lots of backfire on deceleration.. I welded up a couple pinhole exhaust leaks, tightened up my traction bar, and it drove much better than before. A day goes by and now it wont idle worth a damn. It'll drive through the rpm range fine, but gets all sorts of backfire. I've already checked for clogged jets. How can I go about thoroughly cleaning the idle circuit? Prefer not to remove from the car
great video. .I have a fiberglass buggy 1915 with 40mm dellorto dual set up. runs great on road but offroad not so much . is there a way to prevent spillover. vent extensions or something of that sort Bowl float level seem to be that normal but this thing is horrible off road excellent on Road smooth as silk
robgrinder I realize this is an old comment but I am currently having the same problem with my dual Weber carbs on my rail buggy, runs great on flat ground but on extremely rough terrain or going down or up steep hills it floods from the float bowls. Did you ever find a solution with your dune Buggy?
thank you for your videos, i have dual weber 44 idfs, and bougth biger venturis ( chokes ) to 38mm, is there a procedure on how to change the venturis ? , thanks !!
I am late for work but I did make a vid on that. I can't remember which one it was. Please check threw the playlist. on weber/dellorto tips and tricks Good luck with your project.
Check your fuel inlet for gas presure and flow. Partialy clogged fuel filter. Broken intake manifold gasket. Vacum leak around carb base. Check entire ignition system including inside the distributor cap, Do a plug check and look for color. I know it's a pain and you want easy fix but probably going to be painful
Have a set of these on a 1904 with ported 044 heads, match ported intakes, got a hesitation upon throttle other than that they run smooth. Spark plugs on 3 and 4 are white but 1 and 2 look about right. Have a 142 main jet, does it sound like I need a bigger main? I'm at 3 turns out on air screws, also see a lil fuel come out the top when u hit throttle fast but only on 3 and 4 side. Need some help please
Check you accelerator pump adjustment screw. Sounds like you might have a blockage on 1 2 side . going from 140 to 142 is nothing. It take 10 steps. 140 to 150 is actually one step and unless you have an O2 sensor in the exhaust those small steps mean nothing. Go 4 times the venture size and then round it up. Plug checking is good. Keep on keepin on. Love the Dellorto's
my best wishes to you and your family.a last question for 2015....i have dual drlas and only the left one has a vacuum port for the distributor. do you think is a good idea to open a second port to the right one and connect both to my svda distr.my best wishes from greece
Hi, i have a pair of dellorto carbs that seem to have a leak that empties out the float bowl into the cylinder. With the air horn off i've filled the bowl and repeatedly watch it happen. Been trying to trace the cause of the leak with no luck. It looks like it's leaking into the large phillipshead screw (the one that cover the 5 holes into the venturi) and then into the idle jet. Both carbs doing the same. Any ideas? BTW very informative vids you've loaded - thanks john
John Malvaso Interesting. I have heard of this before but not experienced it myself. Are you saying if you remove it from the engine and just fill it with gas it will drip out the bottom???? These carbs are ment to be used with a Pressure regulator set to less than 3 lbs. A stock VW fuel pump is capable of more than that. Just sayin. Please let me know if you discover a solution. I hate this ethanol fuel.
Hi ,great vids ,Not sure if you could possibly shed some light on my issue I'm getting . So I have a type one motor in my bus which is a 1641 with stock internals . I've just fitted a factory fresh rebuild/fully refurbed pair of DRLA 36's .im using a Bosch svda dizzy and running the vac line with an in line APV to the left hand carb. I'm getting a nasty flat spot coming off idle if you floor it .It will Rev nice and idle well ,and hold high rpm ok ,but it just doesn't seem to loose the flat spot. I took it for a rolling road tune and it showed that my dizzy wasn't advancing early then spiking hard at 42 degrees with vac off ,so causing my bus to run lean I've sent the dizzy off to have it checked and it's fine. I tried it in another stock 1600 with single solex and it was fine . So stuck it back in mine and still have the same issue . Because we had to up the jet size at the rolling road to compensate for the engine running lean I'm now wondering if the dizzy that appears to be working wel with out issue doesn't require the larger jets so maybe the engine is now to rich off idle cause flat spot ?
If it's that rich you would see a puff of Black smoke witch is fuel. Somebody following you would notice it and the exhaust and spark plugs would tell the story. I would never put a thin wall 1641 in a bus and I always use a 009 dizzy with dual two throat carbs. Vacum dizzy is ment for center mount carbs only in my rule book. Other folks might say different.
Great Videos! I was lucky enough to find a Kelmark GT w/ a vw 1600 and dual weber 2 barrels similar to the setup that you have. I just got it running with little effort but I noticed gas leaking from the pump cover area of the carb. Does it sound like a similar problem to what you were having. The car idles fine but does have so slight popping. I'm new to these motors and any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Hey EZGZ, I have a 1776 beetle with a centre mount DRLA40. It goes well except there's no response to the left idle mixture screw. I can screw it right in and the idle speed doesn't change. The idle speed varies a bit but the engine pulls hard and revs freely up to maximum revs. I've checked the jets for blockage and used carb cleaner but no joy. The two throats have identical jetting.
What you are describing can happen if you are using a intake manifold with a cross over port below the carburetor. Sometimes it's a large hole about the size about 3/4 of an inch. You can't see it from the outside. You would have to take of the carb and look down the manifold. This allows the idle fuel mixture to go from one side to the other. When you give it the gas you produce enough signal that the left side pulls in the main as normal. If the idle jets are the correct size the lower fuel screw will be about 3 1/2 turns out. With the open style manifold closing one idle mixture screw causes the other side to do the work. So if you had the left screw open about 4 turns and you close the right screw all the way it should still idle. If it does not you have a blockage somewhere in your left side idle circuit. The Main fuel jets are at the bottom of those tall jet stacks on the top. The idle jets are under those two short screws right next to it. Based on what info you gave me thats about all I can say for now.
Thanks EZGZ. The two intake manifold halves are completely separate. So I squirted some carb cleaner down the idle jet ports until it ran out of the idle mixture needle valve holes. I did this a few times. Now there's a small drop in idle speed as I screw the left needle valve in. The right one still stops the engine. I figure either I continue the "treatment" until it works as expected or perhaps the left side is working normally now and the right side is not working normally because that's where the vacuum advance is connected! I can prove that by plugging the vacuum advance port and trying the mixture adjustment again. I'm close now, thanks EZGZ!
Sounds like your on the right track. Also spray down that little tiny hole on the top of the carb next to the idle jet holder . It's about 1/16 hole with a brass sleeve. It's the Air hole for the idle circuit and if blocked can upset the idle function.
All of us older guys grew up with an air cleaner top that was mostly flat, it turns out that oval or rounded out for smooth air flow is really best! this is harder on oval or 2 barrel carbs for duel port heads. Think upside down stainless salad bowl, Or? this can provide 10% to 30% more get up and go! just change the shape of the metal top of your air cleaner. Nick Wiese
It's way simpler to just use the standard 2 1/2 inch tall velocity stacks with flared end that these aftermarket performance carburetor's came with. Keep in mind that space is limited in a stock VW engine compartment and many other aplications. These IDF style carbs also can be fitted with 6 inch tall velocety stacks and 9 inch tall air cleaners when you have the room. www.cbperformance.com/category-s/385.htm I think I will leave salad bowls to ua-cam.com/video/EkpsydS8JXI/v-deo.html
Hi ez Yes exactly. Float bowls filled about 3/4 full so static pressure like .2 psi Dripping from 5 hole passage into idle screw passage. any ideas? Would you be interested in servicing? I rebuilt but not 100% sure now they're correct. John
John Malvaso Your better off learning how to do it yourself. If you don't have this book, get it! www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=0101 CB performance was the distributor for Dellorto and still carry all the parts.
Is the air bypass screws supposed to be turned all the way in and closed on a first run setup after a full rebuild?? Having issue ma getting extra information for these carbs I really appreciate all the videos you make!
A great tip for you peeps with carbs... If you have a blocked jet but the jets are clean, get a pipette and stick it in the hole of the jet you remove, suck up the gas and get great delight when it sucks up the lump of stuff that was blocking the jet!
Aloha brother how's it going got a question for you so my Volkswagen was running good for two days rebuild the carburetors change the plugs set the valves on the third day again number 3 cylinder isn't responding it is not getting spark my guess is is without taking it out that it's followed out again I don't understand why this keeps happening to this cylinder only can you help
Try swaping the entire plug wire with #3 and #4 see if the problem switches to the other plug. Orrrrrr of it's been a long time put some new plug wires on. Sounds like you know what your doing. Ya just got a glitch to find. Let me know if that fixed it.
Silly me I I found the problem started to switch the spark plug wires over from three and four and noticed that three was off somehow don't know how that happens started to switch the spark plug wires over from 3 and 4 and noticed that 3 was off somehow don't know how that happens plug it back on start it up runs good again
I'm a Holly guy.... so bare with me please. I have dual Weber's on my 62 Buggy , running a strong 1915cc. It was running great , jetted perfectly , then all of a sudden it started popping on acceleration. Someone said the vacuum ports got plugged behind the idle screws. Before I pull e'm and clean e'm out.....does this happen? Can I just pull the screws and squirt carburetor cleaner near? that's what I was told. Thank you. Tom
Popping is usually lean condition. Your advice might work. Also check accelerator pumps are both squirting. No vacuum leaks, Float level, Intake manifold gasket. Most likely removing the idle air/fuel screw and doing the squirt might work or just move the blockage to come back later. Also a bad spark plug or spark plug wire. Good time for a full tune while your checking things out.
TheEZGZ I started with the most simplest. Since it was running good before , I pulled the Needles to the next to the idle screws. Counted to threads , unlocked the locknut, and uncrewed them , squirted carburetor cleaner in them, made sure the needles were cleaned(they had dirty tips), put them back in exposing the same thread as before. Took it for a drive and the popping was gone. I got lucky. lol Hopefully , whatever was plugging the port doesn’t return. Buggy has been sitting for a couple of years before I bought it so I'm sure there's alot settlement and debris in the fuel. Thank you for the video and advice. I have alot to learn on a new-to-me carb.
Hey EZ, i have a question about 48 idfs. I have one carb out of 2 on my 2276 sand car that seems to have a flooding issue when running over woops in the sand at a slow speed. My floats are set at 10mm and still does it. I put in float extention tubes on top of the carb still has an issue. Could I have a bad needle and seat?
Yes, Also check your fuel pressure and set it a 2 1/2 psi. You could also set something up to duplicate your current pressure and with the top of the carb remmoved and held level in your hands hold the the float up to the proper level and see if it shuts completely off. Easy if you have electric pump. Difficult if your using a stock pump. Damned modern fuels.....
TheEZGZ Thank you for tje reply. i am use a 2.5 on my regulator. I am glad you think the same as i do on the needle and seat. Also I think my float level is set where the float is angled not flat.
Might be a good idea to replace both the inlet valves and save the good one for a spare. Also make sure your float is still good. They are not hollow so you can't just shake it. Pour some gas into a bowl and set the floats from both carbs side by side. You might get a surprise like I recently did. Good Luck with your project and keep us posted. Your finding's may help the rest of us. Thanks again for posting
Hey EZ, I wanted to get back to you on this carb issue. I found out the fix for my issue. I replaced the cheap fuel pressure regulator and put a Mr Gasket one on. Cured my issue. The blueish green cheapy one that the bug shops sells has to weak of a spring. So when you bounce the fuel pressure goes up and floods the carbs.
Just rebuilt my dellorto drla 40s My question is How many turns out do I adjust the needle jets on the outside bottom of mine to get a good idle?? Thanks in advance
Any tips for base idle speed screw setup, any measurement from under the head of the idle speed screw to the carb body for a base idle speed? 2180 with dual DELLORTO 45 DRLA? I have watched all your videos any further tips is much appreciated.
You are blessed with Dellorto's. so pull the cover screws that allow you to peek at the progression ports. Make sure nothing is exposed ( the butterfly is below the lowest port) Use your lower bypass air screw to synch all 4 ports, next you want to use the fuel needle screws to smooth is out. 3 1/2 to 5 turns depending how good you carbs are. Find that spot that makes you happy and the carbs happy. Nice crisp throttle when driving. Experiment, clean, clean, clean. synch both side, the closer you get both side to work together the bigger your smile. If they don't lift off the same and WOT the same then your linkage is not geometrically perfect. MAKE IT SO! A six pac of beer might improve your patience! :-)
TheEZGZ I have to take a break tonight they are definitely running on the rich side at the 3.5 turns out. I will recheck what you stated I hope I can figure this out getting discouraged.
TheEZGZ with the idle speed screws turnout/ backed off all the way the throttle plate is still halfway into the second lowest progression port? I can send pictures if I had a different contact for you
I always recommend Stock Jets. It's not the engine size that matters. It is jetted according to the venturi size. WEBER 40 IDF Factory Dual Carbs AIR CORRECTION 2.00 EMULSION TUBE F-11 MAIN JET 1.15 PUMP JET .50 IDLE JET .50 VENTURII 28mm
Have check everything, except th cap, and guess what , I need a new cap. after a whole day , of pulling the carbs a parts, and pulling out my hair, its the BLOODY CAP, thanks EZGZ
Hey there EZ, not sure if you still check these comments still but thought I'd put it out there. having a repeated vac leak around the manifold area making my dells pop and snap and backfire. the last time I installed them they were fine for about 10 minutes then they started popping again. can the manifold shift on the head? I made sure I tightened it enough. I've synced them the best I could with a vac leak, taken the carbs off three times already. there's no cracks in the manifold. I've tried grease and rtv separately on the gaskets. what are your thoughts
Something might be warping as it heats up??? Might be in the carb itself? Check your float level and inlet valve. There is a screen where the hose connects. Check fuel pressure. 2 or 3 PSI works best. If your not getting fuel it will go lean and snap and pop. Keep searching. I take the top off the carb and blow threw the inlet while raising and lowering the float with my finger. Good Luck
TheEZGZ thanks. Just got my bigger idle jets in the mail. so hoping beefing up to 65 and doing a valve adjustment will eliminate most of the issue but that vac Leal is the one making me scratch my head. I'll do what you recommend and let you know thanks!
Oh haven't we all experienced crap like this. lol. It always smart to walk away from the problem for a while and do other stuff. Your brain have fooled you into a dead end and that is not always so easy to acknowledge. Been there and done that many times! A basic engine diagnose rule of thumb: 9 out of 10 times when there is a misfire problem it is the ignition systems high voltage sides that is the problem. This is of course not scientifically accurate measured but its a gives a clue.
LOL I am so glad I made this vid back in the day. Keeping these engines alive and happy is a challenge. I sometimes have to look at my old videos for ideas and solutions to keep my cars alive and happy! LOL. We are in Corona Quarantine and I am trying to keep my sanitie GOD Bless!!!
You got that right!
EZGZ, Always great videos. Thanks for the education. Bob
Thanks for sharing the information I’m barely getting into the V dub motors I got a 2232 motor. I’m working on and these carburetors are just popping and popping so this information does give a little bit of help.
Its good to show, "you" can be humbled too!. thanks for another, great & honest video!
Love this guy's personality 💯
I am just getting in the vw game at age 29 and you are not kidding keeping these things happy is a challenge. I'm learning as I'm going and you and the original builder of my sand rail.have been the two best sources of information. My current situation with my vw is covered in this video I believe so thank you, thank you, thank you for all of your information.
You can do it!
@@TheEZGZ got wrapped up with pulling the carbs just about to nothing. There was gunk in places I hadn't cleaned before including the " trash can" good grief it had allot of goodies in there! Can't sync and tune because it is 230 a.m. here in the mitten and my neighbors might not appreciate that. Thanks again!
Only dealt with Del'Orto with my son's KTM 50 and I think they are good running carbs. I like the tips you showed on this monster!! I think the traps you fell in to are very common place among guys like us because you lead your self from one clue to another. Great job in tracking down the real issue!! Ignition, Fuel, Timing can be a very confusing mix!!!
Wow what a run around I'm glad you got to the bottom of it in the end. Diagnoses is the hard part.
Funny that dizzy centre brush....has a lot to answer for...I have a vw trike in the workshop similar to the carb set up your have and a similar problem. .yep you guessed it dizzy brush missing? ?? Pop a new one in and engine running great.....have a good day. ..Cheers William
Have a 2002 mustang that did the same thing. Ran fine when at ide, cursing speed, but when the pedal was to the metal it would buck, hesitate, and loose power. Took us a long time to solve the problem. It was a bad coaxial fuel line that was inhibiting flow as the inside of the fuel line was peeling and blocking flow to the fuel rail/injectors. Replaced the fuel pump, filter, and some electronics before we came to the resolution.
Good info on the carb. I am fighting the idle with a set of side draft Weber 40 DCOE's. Working on a '77 Vette with a built magnum Chevy 350 with B&M blower. Sometimes it can idle great other times not so good. Took the top of the carb off and cleaned everything i could see even though it wasn't looking dirty. The car sat for 5 years The only thing I have not opened is what I think would be the accelarator pump jet holder but I dont think that would effect idle quality. Timing, vacuum and spark are all good. Goes down the highway just fine, no engine miss. Got any ideas please let me know? Just subscribed to your channel, good stuff
I just bought a Honda Goldwing chopper with dual Dellorto carbs. I've never owned Volkswagens or dune buggies, so I was nervous about messing with them until I watched this video. Thanks for the information. My gas tank is full of sludge and rust and the bike came with no fuel filter or screen so they're plugged up. But I think I can handle it after watching this video. Thanks again
Glad I could help. Sounds like a interesting project. Let me know how it turns out. Make sure your getting 3 psi of fuel pressure at the carb.
@@TheEZGZ it's just gravity flow from the motorcycle gas tank above the carbs, no fuel pump or pressure regulator. Seems to work pretty good. It is a cheap ratty bike and I'm fixing a lot of small issues but it's a blast. I did take it down the road once and it boils the tire in every gear!
@@TheEZGZ rebuilt the carbs and she runs real good but one of the floats was flooding, so I thought. Kept adjusting float height and finally weighed the floats, one was heavy so I ordered new ones from Italy. Long story short, I was chasing a flooding condition finally figured out it was the little seal between the inlet valve SEAT and upper carb body ( I call it a needle valve). The nylon seal was faulty so l replaced it with an o-ring. Fixed it
Check your gasket when you take the top half off, my DCOE just near baffle plate dirt was coming in because the gasket was old and thinner on that side. I can see some dirt 7:23 near the screw hole.
Also with the dizzy cap hold it down then undo both clips, I undid mine one side first and the cap moved and broke the carbon tip, it was only a year old, now I hold it in place and undo the clips one at a time.
Thanks for the info I got it running but it will only run ( idle) for about 15 seconds u have to feather the throttle. I pulled carb apart and cleaned everything. All gaskets and o rings are in nice shape. Any idea what to look for now? It seems to be starving for fuel. I undone the fuel line from the pump to carb and spun motor over it pumped fuel at a decent rate. So I hooked it all back up. Any other things to look for ? My rail sat for about 2 years in touched. Thanks
Thanks so much for your videos! I have just purchased a brand new set of Weber 40 IDF carbs for my 71 1600 type 3 (not FI). It had a second hand set on it but I didn't know the history of them and I found I could just never get them dialled in properly, they leaked a bit and so on. I have replaced them with the brand new ones and now no matter what I do, it appears to run on 2 cylinders, seemingly on the RHS. It idled stupidly rich, an eventually leaked fuel out a join in the exhaust on the right side. I rechecked float height and swapped out the needle and seat valve. This made no difference. I've since changed spark plugs (checked for spark at the end of the leads) put the old IDF on and the problem persists. I've balanced them to pull the same amount of air but can't adjust idle mixture as turning the screws has no effect. I've also noticed if I cover the carb there's a small amount of suction but almost no change in the engine. If I cover just one of the chokes on the LHS carb the engine stops. It also sucks much harder. As far as I know the very last time I drove the car, it drove fine. Short of putting all the original equipment (dual solex carbs) back on, I don't know what to do. The things I haven't yet checked...changing the LHS carb, compression testing the cylinders and changing out the new jets for different ones. I have also noticed when I mash the throttle fuel dribbles out from around the sides of the pump jets on the RHS new carb. I know this is a long message but you're so incredibly experienced, passionate and knowledgable, I really don't know where else to go. Thanks in advance!
sorry your having so much problem. The fuel pressure needs to be around 2.5 PSI. Best to use a low pressure electric pump with seperete regulator. You need a synch tool to measure the air flow. www.cbperformance.com/product-p/6534.htm
No carbs run out of the box but they have all the parts. The jets they came with should be OK
Thanks you always get it done love that about you, God Bless you
I appreciate that
great video, the real life stuff that happens to us all........tony
fantastic video, i have the same carb set up and i also have the exact same issue you were speaking about the popping and snapping(i tried everything you said too, i even sent them both away for full service £400 they look like new but yet i have the same issue.
doing my head in Grrrrrrrrrrrrr
Ok, there is one thing I left out. On the top of the idle circuit is a small brass insert that allows air into the idle curcuit. It's on the top of the carb body and is easy to overlook. Very small hole in a brass insert. Junk that get's buy your air filter and lays on the deck get caught in there. Most times if you remove the idle needle and blow air in there it pops out the blockage or even spraying brake clean in the needle valve will lift it out. If it's really stuck in there you might have to stick a sewing needle in there or a strand of copper wire that's small enough to dislodge it. Snapping and popping is always a lean condition and the plugged up port can do this even if the idle jet is clean as a whistle. Don't give up. When you solve the problem you will be so energized and happy and your engine will love you for it. Sometimes a bad lean condition will wreck a spark plug so you might want to swap a plug with another cylinder and see if the symptom follows. I know you can find the blockage. God Bless
@@TheEZGZ can you post a picture of this tiny hole pls
I have seen them on mid engine sand cars. You can use brake fluid. Since it is such low pressure you can just unscrew the line at the carb end and hold you finger over it like a check valve while somebody pushes the gas. Just like brake bleeding. If you go back to cable be sure you plan it out carefully before you scrap the liquid. You have lots of options. I don't like running it in any sort of sleeve or guide. Even mores cable will eventually jam with dirt.
Wonderful viedos couldnt ask for better. I have a question on my rail I have a dellorto 45. It runs but has trouble at idle but the main question is it has a "hydraulic" ( liquid fed) throttle. From the pedal to the carb its a tube with liquid in it. Any idea how it works or to bleed it? I'm almost ready to swap it to cable my rail is a project I bought a while back and just now getting into it any help would be great. Thanks.
Love the carb tips, Can you some advise? Last weekend my car was running ok. It idled strong, but had lots of backfire on deceleration.. I welded up a couple pinhole exhaust leaks, tightened up my traction bar, and it drove much better than before. A day goes by and now it wont idle worth a damn. It'll drive through the rpm range fine, but gets all sorts of backfire. I've already checked for clogged jets. How can I go about thoroughly cleaning the idle circuit? Prefer not to remove from the car
Thanks! good video
great video. .I have a fiberglass buggy 1915 with 40mm dellorto dual set up. runs great on road but offroad not so much . is there a way to prevent spillover. vent extensions or something of that sort Bowl float level seem to be that normal but this thing is horrible off road excellent on Road smooth as silk
get a $50 fuel pressure regulator and dial back you pressure to 2 1/2 pounds or less. You might also want to drop your float level a couple of MM
robgrinder I realize this is an old comment but I am currently having the same problem with my dual Weber carbs on my rail buggy, runs great on flat ground but on extremely rough terrain or going down or up steep hills it floods from the float bowls. Did you ever find a solution with your dune Buggy?
thank you sir
thank you for your videos, i have dual weber 44 idfs, and bougth biger venturis ( chokes ) to 38mm, is there a procedure on how to change the venturis ? , thanks !!
I am late for work but I did make a vid on that. I can't remember which one it was. Please check threw the playlist. on weber/dellorto tips and tricks Good luck with your project.
Check your fuel inlet for gas presure and flow. Partialy clogged fuel filter.
Broken intake manifold gasket. Vacum leak around carb base. Check entire ignition system including inside the distributor cap, Do a plug check and look for color. I know it's a pain and you want easy fix but probably going to be painful
great video.!!! thanks
+GEORGE BOURDEISON Thanks for your support George. Have a safe and prosperous 2016
Have a set of these on a 1904 with ported 044 heads, match ported intakes, got a hesitation upon throttle other than that they run smooth. Spark plugs on 3 and 4 are white but 1 and 2 look about right. Have a 142 main jet, does it sound like I need a bigger main? I'm at 3 turns out on air screws, also see a lil fuel come out the top when u hit throttle fast but only on 3 and 4 side. Need some help please
Check you accelerator pump adjustment screw. Sounds like you might have a blockage on 1 2 side . going from 140 to 142 is nothing. It take 10 steps. 140 to 150 is actually one step and unless you have an O2 sensor in the exhaust those small steps mean nothing. Go 4 times the venture size and then round it up. Plug checking is good. Keep on keepin on. Love the Dellorto's
my best wishes to you and your family.a last question for 2015....i have dual drlas and only the left one has a vacuum port for the distributor. do you think is a good idea to open a second port to the right one and connect both to my svda distr.my best wishes from greece
+GEORGE BOURDEISON I wouldn't. All the way from Greece. That's amazing. Have a good one.
Hi,
i have a pair of dellorto carbs that seem to have a leak that empties out the float bowl into the cylinder. With the air horn off i've filled the bowl and repeatedly watch it happen. Been trying to trace the cause of the leak with no luck. It looks like it's leaking into the large phillipshead screw (the one that cover the 5 holes into the venturi) and then into the idle jet. Both carbs doing the same. Any ideas?
BTW very informative vids you've loaded - thanks
john
John Malvaso Interesting. I have heard of this before but not experienced it myself. Are you saying if you remove it from the engine and just fill it with gas it will drip out the bottom???? These carbs are ment to be used with a Pressure regulator set to less than 3 lbs. A stock VW fuel pump is capable of more than that. Just sayin. Please let me know if you discover a solution. I hate this ethanol fuel.
Hi ,great vids ,Not sure if you could possibly shed some light on my issue I'm getting .
So I have a type one motor in my bus which is a 1641 with stock internals .
I've just fitted a factory fresh rebuild/fully refurbed pair of DRLA 36's .im using a Bosch svda dizzy and running the vac line with an in line APV to the left hand carb.
I'm getting a nasty flat spot coming off idle if you floor it .It will Rev nice and idle well ,and hold high rpm ok ,but it just doesn't seem to loose the flat spot.
I took it for a rolling road tune and it showed that my dizzy wasn't advancing early then spiking hard at 42 degrees with vac off ,so causing my bus to run lean
I've sent the dizzy off to have it checked and it's fine.
I tried it in another stock 1600 with single solex and it was fine .
So stuck it back in mine and still have the same issue .
Because we had to up the jet size at the rolling road to compensate for the engine running lean I'm now wondering if the dizzy that appears to be working wel with out issue doesn't require the larger jets so maybe the engine is now to rich off idle cause flat spot ?
If it's that rich you would see a puff of Black smoke witch is fuel. Somebody following you would notice it and the exhaust and spark plugs would tell the story. I would never put a thin wall 1641 in a bus and I always use a 009 dizzy with dual two throat carbs. Vacum dizzy is ment for center mount carbs only in my rule book. Other folks might say different.
Just had an ofter thought. Make sure all 4 of your accelerator pump jets are squirting. You may have to use a mirror in a bus application. Be safe
Great Videos! I was lucky enough to find a Kelmark GT w/ a vw 1600 and dual weber 2 barrels similar to the setup that you have. I just got it running with little effort but I noticed gas leaking from the pump cover area of the carb. Does it sound like a similar problem to what you were having. The car idles fine but does have so slight popping. I'm new to these motors and any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
www.cbperformance.com/product-p/0101.htm Best book you can own
Thanks
Hey EZGZ, I have a 1776 beetle with a centre mount DRLA40. It goes well except there's no response to the left idle mixture screw. I can screw it right in and the idle speed doesn't change. The idle speed varies a bit but the engine pulls hard and revs freely up to maximum revs. I've checked the jets for blockage and used carb cleaner but no joy. The two throats have identical jetting.
What you are describing can happen if you are using a intake manifold with a cross over port below the carburetor. Sometimes it's a large hole about the size about 3/4 of an inch. You can't see it from the outside. You would have to take of the carb and look down the manifold. This allows the idle fuel mixture to go from one side to the other. When you give it the gas you produce enough signal that the left side pulls in the main as normal. If the idle jets are the correct size the lower fuel screw will be about 3 1/2 turns out. With the open style manifold closing one idle mixture screw causes the other side to do the work. So if you had the left screw open about 4 turns and you close the right screw all the way it should still idle. If it does not you have a blockage somewhere in your left side idle circuit. The Main fuel jets are at the bottom of those tall jet stacks on the top. The idle jets are under those two short screws right next to it. Based on what info you gave me thats about all I can say for now.
Thanks EZGZ. The two intake manifold halves are completely separate. So I squirted some carb cleaner down the idle jet ports until it ran out of the idle mixture needle valve holes. I did this a few times. Now there's a small drop in idle speed as I screw the left needle valve in. The right one still stops the engine. I figure either I continue the "treatment" until it works as expected or perhaps the left side is working normally now and the right side is not working normally because that's where the vacuum advance is connected! I can prove that by plugging the vacuum advance port and trying the mixture adjustment again. I'm close now, thanks EZGZ!
Sounds like your on the right track. Also spray down that little tiny hole on the top of the carb next to the idle jet holder . It's about 1/16 hole with a brass sleeve. It's the Air hole for the idle circuit and if blocked can upset the idle function.
Yes, I was careful to get carb cleaner down that little hole too, after you pointed it out in your video. Thanks from a New Zealand beetle owner!
All of us older guys grew up with an air cleaner top that was mostly flat, it turns out that oval or rounded out for smooth air flow is really best! this is harder on oval or 2 barrel carbs for duel port heads. Think upside down stainless salad bowl, Or? this can provide 10% to 30% more get up and go! just change the shape of the metal top of your air cleaner. Nick Wiese
It's way simpler to just use the standard 2 1/2 inch tall velocity stacks with flared end that these aftermarket performance carburetor's came with. Keep in mind that space is limited in a stock VW engine compartment and many other aplications. These IDF style carbs also can be fitted with 6 inch tall velocety stacks and 9 inch tall air cleaners when you have the room. www.cbperformance.com/category-s/385.htm I think I will leave salad bowls to ua-cam.com/video/EkpsydS8JXI/v-deo.html
Hi ez
Yes exactly. Float bowls filled about 3/4 full so static pressure like .2 psi
Dripping from 5 hole passage into idle screw passage. any ideas? Would you be interested in servicing? I rebuilt but not 100% sure now they're correct.
John
John Malvaso Your better off learning how to do it yourself. If you don't have this book, get it! www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=0101 CB performance was the distributor for Dellorto and still carry all the parts.
Is the air bypass screws supposed to be turned all the way in and closed on a first run setup after a full rebuild?? Having issue ma getting extra information for these carbs I really appreciate all the videos you make!
Yes they should be closed. www.cbperformance.com/CB-Tech-Books-s/303.htm
TheEZGZ these books are still not available
A great tip for you peeps with carbs...
If you have a blocked jet but the jets are clean, get a pipette and stick it in the hole of the jet you remove, suck up the gas and get great delight when it sucks up the lump of stuff that was blocking the jet!
Aloha brother how's it going got a question for you so my Volkswagen was running good for two days rebuild the carburetors change the plugs set the valves on the third day again number 3 cylinder isn't responding it is not getting spark my guess is is without taking it out that it's followed out again I don't understand why this keeps happening to this cylinder only can you help
Try swaping the entire plug wire with #3 and #4 see if the problem switches to the other plug. Orrrrrr of it's been a long time put some new plug wires on. Sounds like you know what your doing. Ya just got a glitch to find. Let me know if that fixed it.
Silly me I I found the problem started to switch the spark plug wires over from three and four and noticed that three was off somehow don't know how that happens started to switch the spark plug wires over from 3 and 4 and noticed that 3 was off somehow don't know how that happens plug it back on start it up runs good again
Always nice to find a simple fix. Thanks for getting back to us. I'm sure this will help someone else
I'm a Holly guy.... so bare with me please.
I have dual Weber's on my 62 Buggy , running a strong 1915cc.
It was running great , jetted perfectly , then all of a sudden it started popping on acceleration.
Someone said the vacuum ports got plugged behind the idle screws. Before I pull e'm and clean e'm out.....does this happen? Can I just pull the screws and squirt carburetor cleaner near? that's what I was told.
Thank you.
Tom
Popping is usually lean condition. Your advice might work. Also check accelerator pumps are both squirting. No vacuum leaks, Float level, Intake manifold gasket. Most likely removing the idle air/fuel screw and doing the squirt might work or just move the blockage to come back later. Also a bad spark plug or spark plug wire. Good time for a full tune while your checking things out.
TheEZGZ I started with the most simplest. Since it was running good before , I pulled the Needles to the next to the idle screws. Counted to threads , unlocked the locknut, and uncrewed them , squirted carburetor cleaner in them, made sure the needles were cleaned(they had dirty tips), put them back in exposing the same thread as before. Took it for a drive and the popping was gone. I got lucky. lol
Hopefully , whatever was plugging the port doesn’t return.
Buggy has been sitting for a couple of years before I bought it so I'm sure there's alot settlement and debris in the fuel.
Thank you for the video and advice. I have alot to learn on a new-to-me carb.
10-4 will do thanks again
Hey EZ, i have a question about 48 idfs. I have one carb out of 2 on my 2276 sand car that seems to have a flooding issue when running over woops in the sand at a slow speed. My floats are set at 10mm and still does it. I put in float extention tubes on top of the carb still has an issue. Could I have a bad needle and seat?
Yes, Also check your fuel pressure and set it a 2 1/2 psi. You could also set something up to duplicate your current pressure and with the top of the carb remmoved and held level in your hands hold the the float up to the proper level and see if it shuts completely off. Easy if you have electric pump. Difficult if your using a stock pump. Damned modern fuels.....
TheEZGZ Thank you for tje reply. i am use a 2.5 on my regulator. I am glad you think the same as i do on the needle and seat. Also I think my float level is set where the float is angled not flat.
Might be a good idea to replace both the inlet valves and save the good one for a spare. Also make sure your float is still good. They are not hollow so you can't just shake it. Pour some gas into a bowl and set the floats from both carbs side by side. You might get a surprise like I recently did. Good Luck with your project and keep us posted. Your finding's may help the rest of us. Thanks again for posting
TheEZGZ Thank you. Will do.
Hey EZ, I wanted to get back to you on this carb issue. I found out the fix for my issue. I replaced the cheap fuel pressure regulator and put a Mr Gasket one on. Cured my issue. The blueish green cheapy one that the bug shops sells has to weak of a spring. So when you bounce the fuel pressure goes up and floods the carbs.
Just rebuilt my dellorto drla 40s
My question is
How many turns out do I adjust the needle jets on the outside bottom of mine to get a good idle??
Thanks in advance
3 1/2 turnes
Thank you
Any tips for base idle speed screw setup, any measurement from under the head of the idle speed screw to the carb body for a base idle speed? 2180 with dual DELLORTO 45 DRLA? I have watched all your videos any further tips is much appreciated.
You are blessed with Dellorto's. so pull the cover screws that allow you to peek at the progression ports. Make sure nothing is exposed ( the butterfly is below the lowest port) Use your lower bypass air screw to synch all 4 ports, next you want to use the fuel needle screws to smooth is out. 3 1/2 to 5 turns depending how good you carbs are. Find that spot that makes you happy and the carbs happy. Nice crisp throttle when driving. Experiment, clean, clean, clean. synch both side, the closer you get both side to work together the bigger your smile. If they don't lift off the same and WOT the same then your linkage is not geometrically perfect. MAKE IT SO! A six pac of beer might improve your patience! :-)
TheEZGZ I have to take a break tonight they are definitely running on the rich side at the 3.5 turns out. I will recheck what you stated I hope I can figure this out getting discouraged.
TheEZGZ it seemed the #3 cylinder is pulling little more air then #4 I can turn out the lower bypass air screws to balance this out?
TheEZGZ ps this is in a sedan. Is there a better way I can contact you and even send photos if required?
TheEZGZ with the idle speed screws turnout/ backed off all the way the throttle plate is still halfway into the second lowest progression port? I can send pictures if I had a different contact for you
looking for recommendations. I have a new 1915.Big valve heads. Dual 40 Webers .What jets would you recommend .
I always recommend Stock Jets. It's not the engine size that matters. It is jetted according to the venturi size.
WEBER 40 IDF Factory Dual Carbs
AIR CORRECTION 2.00
EMULSION TUBE F-11
MAIN JET 1.15
PUMP JET .50
IDLE JET .50
VENTURII 28mm
@@TheEZGZ Thanks. Ive learned a lot from your videos.
@@TheEZGZ I have a rebuildable Weber 44"s. Would they be a better option?
No! Because you have a stock size 69mm crankshaft. Save the 44's for the bigger 82mm + strocker cranks
Have check everything, except th cap, and guess what , I need a new cap. after a whole day , of pulling the carbs a parts, and pulling out my hair, its the BLOODY CAP, thanks EZGZ
Good Job!!!! Glad ya found it. Now for a test drive. aaaahhhhhhh
👍
Hey we are having trouble with one of theese carbs do you have an email?
Just leave your question here and I will try and answer it. It might help others with similar problems.
Hey there EZ, not sure if you still check these comments still but thought I'd put it out there. having a repeated vac leak around the manifold area making my dells pop and snap and backfire. the last time I installed them they were fine for about 10 minutes then they started popping again. can the manifold shift on the head? I made sure I tightened it enough. I've synced them the best I could with a vac leak, taken the carbs off three times already. there's no cracks in the manifold. I've tried grease and rtv separately on the gaskets. what are your thoughts
Something might be warping as it heats up??? Might be in the carb itself? Check your float level and inlet valve. There is a screen where the hose connects. Check fuel pressure. 2 or 3 PSI works best. If your not getting fuel it will go lean and snap and pop. Keep searching. I take the top off the carb and blow threw the inlet while raising and lowering the float with my finger. Good Luck
TheEZGZ thanks. Just got my bigger idle jets in the mail. so hoping beefing up to 65 and doing a valve adjustment will eliminate most of the issue but that vac Leal is the one making me scratch my head. I'll do what you recommend and let you know thanks!
Oh haven't we all experienced crap like this. lol.
It always smart to walk away from the problem for a while and do other stuff. Your brain have fooled you into a dead end and that is not always so easy to acknowledge. Been there and done that many times!
A basic engine diagnose rule of thumb: 9 out of 10 times when there is a misfire problem it is the ignition systems high voltage sides that is the problem.
This is of course not scientifically accurate measured but its a gives a clue.