I just bought a Gl 1100 Honda Goldwing, hard-tail chopper ( de-rake style chop). It has dual Dellorto carbs . I'm very thankful to find this channel, because I've never worked on downdraft carbs before
Excellent - been wanting to see something about these carbs. I see you have more. Hoping to watch on jet trouble shouting. How to know when jets-main or idle / tubes are TOO BIG or TOO small . Good and detailed as always. Thank You !!!!
I am glad you heard me screaming at you about the fuel in the intake port. LOL. Good work, looks like they are the same pain in the ass as the Dellorto VHBs I use on the Guzzi, but when they work right wooooohoo!!!!!!!!!! :~()
you were saying that the fuel level wasn't up on the shelf in the carb but maybe it would when the floats would be sitting in it ,just a thought, i enjoy your vids good work.
You are correct. But taking that into consideration I kinda know where it's happy spot is. Thanks for all your views, comments and support. You guys are great a spotting things I miss.
That one thing in ca we are on a salt free intake.In the video I saw that your heater tube had wear spots in the tube try the black paper type they hold up better then the foil type.
When you're setting the float level on the dellorto is there an actual millimeter measurement like the Webers? Or do you always just try and Eyeball it level
Killer vid! I wanted to ask you a few questions at the Bug-in at bandimere but you were a bit busy with other folks. Im running a 2.3L Painters Grinding motor. Ir runs pretty freaking hot. I have dual 36mm Dellortos. AS Best as I can tell I have 180 main air correctors. 122 main jets and 60mm idle jets. I live in GJ so altitude here is running 5500 feet or so. What do you suggest I change to to get a cooler running engine? Im in the process of plumming up a 96 passage Mesa cooler with fan and thermostats. Full flo case, external filter in line with the external cooler/fan.
How hot is freaking Hot? What area of the engine is hot? What do you mean best as you can tell? Do you suspect they have been drilled? Those are the stock jets sizes for dellorto 36 It's the same I run without problems. Whats your compression ratio, Are you running a stock fan and shroud, What size tires? If the RPM is lower than stock with stock size tire then your fan is turning fast enough to cool a 1600. Are you running the early fan or the later one. Are you running the type 3 cool tin under the cylinders. Are you running high enough octane fuel to support your compression. What is your timing set at? If you back off the timing to avoid buying race fuel your going to lose power and make heat. Stretched fan belt can slow your cooling fan down. Many big valve aftermarket heads as well as stock have blocked cooling fins and need to be opened up like I show in my Head Tricks video's. www.aircooled.net/vw-parts-tech-resource/
I have the dog house cooler, offset oil cooler. All tin is new and in place. Hoover bit, cool tins, all that jazz. 195x50x15" Serpentine belt. dont know where the timing is set at and heads would be a commensurate size for a 2332 cc engine. Don't know about the compression either. I wanted specs but they said they didnt record anything.
Normal Oil Temp is around 180 F and I can't hold mine ether. LOL www.harborfreight.com/121-infrared-laser-thermometer-63985.html Here is another nifty item vwparts.aircooled.net/Oil-Temperature-Dipstick-235F-Warning-p/hot-oil-dipstick-t1.htm
remove pee hole, soak in carb cleaner, 100psi reverse blow and repeat as needed. Check accelerator pump check valve, Make sure spring is pushing the diaphragm back ???? follow the flow and make sure it's clear.
@@TheEZGZ Thanks Again EZGZ, I owe you a burrito! I did exactly what you said and found that I put the pump diaphragm in backwards also. One trick I found helpful was to use the straw from the carb cleaner and blow through the passages to make sure they are clear. Using the compressed air was good in clearing the passages but doing it manually was a good check as you can hear and feel the air go through each passage. Thanks again and I look forward to more videos and tips.
So glad I could help. It's just a matter of getting to know what you have and solving the problem when it rears it's ugly head. .Hope you get lot's of smiles to the miles. VW's forever!!!!
SALT... Great stuff on meat. Terrible stuff for most everything else... Being in NY I'm all to familiar with that stuff... NiCopp works sweet for fuel lines. Bends easy, flares easy and polishes nice. (and it doesn't rot) On those shaft supports could you switch to something like these? www.carterbearings.com/products_special_bearings.php Would seem like a nice roller bearing in there would eliminate 90% of the wear issue.
Nickle Copper alloy tubing. It is sort of new in the US but has been around in Europe for a long time. I use it on vehicles that I don't want to replace the steel brake lines on every few years. So far the only corroded areas on the lines on my Blazer (been on 5 years so far) are the steel fittings and even those are not as bad because I coated them with cold galvanizing.
I just bought a Gl 1100 Honda Goldwing, hard-tail chopper ( de-rake style chop). It has dual Dellorto carbs . I'm very thankful to find this channel, because I've never worked on downdraft carbs before
Sounds great!
good to see your vids going again ez rusty sounds happy.
Love the spare spark plug you carry
Excellent - been wanting to see something about these carbs. I see you have more. Hoping to watch on jet trouble shouting. How to know when jets-main or idle / tubes are TOO BIG or TOO small .
Good and detailed as always. Thank You !!!!
Just go by the book or watch these vids ua-cam.com/video/uYNil8zC6Iw/v-deo.html
Great tips EZ.
I am glad you heard me screaming at you about the fuel in the intake port. LOL. Good work, looks like they are the same pain in the ass as the Dellorto VHBs I use on the Guzzi, but when they work right wooooohoo!!!!!!!!!! :~()
you were saying that the fuel level wasn't up on the shelf in the carb but maybe it would when the floats would be sitting in it ,just a thought, i enjoy your vids good work.
You are correct. But taking that into consideration I kinda know where it's happy spot is. Thanks for all your views, comments and support. You guys are great a spotting things I miss.
great video man!
"I'm in a hurry to go get a burrito" -solid gold
A tip: you can watch series on flixzone. Been using it for watching all kinds of movies recently.
@Rayan Heath definitely, been watching on flixzone for years myself :D
@Rayan Heath Yea, I have been using flixzone for since november myself =)
@Rayan Heath definitely, I have been watching on flixzone for since december myself :D
That one thing in ca we are on a salt free intake.In the video I saw that your heater tube had wear spots in the tube try the black paper type they hold up better then the foil type.
They don't do well with rain and water. Thanks for the comment though
GREAT VIDEO, MY CORVAIR HAD 4 AN IT WAS A BUGGER KEEPIN TUNED
Cool
Cool ...what's with the spark plug in the oil filler/ crankcase breather tube, some sort of aftermarket emissions device ;-) LoL
It's part of an old flux capacitor. hehehe
When you're setting the float level on the dellorto is there an actual millimeter measurement like the Webers? Or do you always just try and Eyeball it level
DRLA is 5-6MM up and 12-13 down. for those who enjoy unnecessary pain
Killer vid! I wanted to ask you a few questions at the Bug-in at bandimere but you were a bit busy with other folks. Im running a 2.3L Painters Grinding motor. Ir runs pretty freaking hot. I have dual 36mm Dellortos. AS Best as I can tell I have 180 main air correctors. 122 main jets and 60mm idle jets. I live in GJ so altitude here is running 5500 feet or so. What do you suggest I change to to get a cooler running engine? Im in the process of plumming up a 96 passage Mesa cooler with fan and thermostats. Full flo case, external filter in line with the external cooler/fan.
How hot is freaking Hot? What area of the engine is hot? What do you mean best as you can tell? Do you suspect they have been drilled? Those are the stock jets sizes for dellorto 36 It's the same I run without problems.
Whats your compression ratio, Are you running a stock fan and shroud, What size tires? If the RPM is lower than stock with stock size tire then your fan is turning fast enough to cool a 1600. Are you running the early fan or the later one. Are you running the type 3 cool tin under the cylinders. Are you running high enough octane fuel to support your compression. What is your timing set at? If you back off the timing to avoid buying race fuel your going to lose power and make heat. Stretched fan belt can slow your cooling fan down. Many big valve aftermarket heads as well as stock have blocked cooling fins and need to be opened up like I show in my Head Tricks video's. www.aircooled.net/vw-parts-tech-resource/
the dipstick is too hot to hold. Once I get the CHT hooked up I will be able to tell or get a better idea.
I have the dog house cooler, offset oil cooler. All tin is new and in place. Hoover bit, cool tins, all that jazz. 195x50x15" Serpentine belt. dont know where the timing is set at and heads would be a commensurate size for a 2332 cc engine. Don't know about the compression either. I wanted specs but they said they didnt record anything.
Normal Oil Temp is around 180 F and I can't hold mine ether. LOL www.harborfreight.com/121-infrared-laser-thermometer-63985.html
Here is another nifty item
vwparts.aircooled.net/Oil-Temperature-Dipstick-235F-Warning-p/hot-oil-dipstick-t1.htm
Great Video's I have been watching as I rebuild my Weber 44's my only problem so far is they do not Pee..lol any sudgestions?
Thanks
remove pee hole, soak in carb cleaner, 100psi reverse blow and repeat as needed. Check accelerator pump check valve, Make sure spring is pushing the diaphragm back ???? follow the flow and make sure it's clear.
@@TheEZGZ Thanks Again EZGZ, I owe you a burrito! I did exactly what you said and found that I put the pump diaphragm in backwards also. One trick I found helpful was to use the straw from the carb cleaner and blow through the passages to make sure they are clear. Using the compressed air was good in clearing the passages but doing it manually was a good check as you can hear and feel the air go through each passage. Thanks again and I look forward to more videos and tips.
So glad I could help. It's just a matter of getting to know what you have and solving the problem when it rears it's ugly head. .Hope you get lot's of smiles to the miles. VW's forever!!!!
single port over here /solex good to see ya ez
Some say those old single ports are less trouble and more durable. Some day I may come across one to try.
my kingdom for a Sanchez burrito
Only half your kingdom. I'll kick in a little and we can both get fat and happy.
LOL
Sad to see the corroded float. Ethanol in the fuel will kill old carbs. If you can't get pure gas, Sta-bil Marine or Ethanol treatment really helps.
Bet the burrito tasted better after that work.
You know it. Start your day with a burrito. Oh yeah
SALT... Great stuff on meat. Terrible stuff for most everything else... Being in NY I'm all to familiar with that stuff...
NiCopp works sweet for fuel lines. Bends easy, flares easy and polishes nice. (and it doesn't rot)
On those shaft supports could you switch to something like these?
www.carterbearings.com/products_special_bearings.php
Would seem like a nice roller bearing in there would eliminate 90% of the wear issue.
Never heard of NICOPP . Thanks. I will google it.
Thanks for the bearing link. Those are some sweet options. Wish I had access to a machine shop.
Nickle Copper alloy tubing. It is sort of new in the US but has been around in Europe for a long time. I use it on vehicles that I don't want to replace the steel brake lines on every few years. So far the only corroded areas on the lines on my Blazer (been on 5 years so far) are the steel fittings and even those are not as bad because I coated them with cold galvanizing.
My street name is rusty dusty
Cool
Thanks Got to get back in the game