This is one of the best, most complete, most informative videos I have seen on this subject. As another poster mentions.....there is no other site or information that I can find that denotes this transmission as bottom fill or how to do it. One "Ask Audi Expert..." even states the fill plug is on the side of the transmission. Started my total oil service this weekend; Rear Diff, XFer case, Front diff, engine oil and got stumped after I drained the tranny oil, replaced the filter and gasket, reassembled and couldn't figure out how to fill it . Much Thanks!!!! This video is incredibly helpful and detailed.
Thanks for watching. Even though I've said this on other comments already I want to add it again for max visibility: I did post 2 Shorts after this video was published to add more insight on the adaptations and how critical it is to do the final fill, at temperature, with the car running, to nail the fill volume or you WILL be short by about a quart. Even the manual doesn't spell that out in plain terms. In hindsight, the entire process is quite simple but the execution has to be spot on.
@@davesnothereman7250 The fluid heats up pretty quick once it crests the mid 30's and keep in mind the fluid you're pumping in is room temperature so I'd get on it right away at like 35 and just make sure it's filled with the car running so the various solenoids are sucking up a portion of what sits in the pan, allowing you to get that true, max fill. You just need to be ready to act when the time is right.
Great work Steve! December last year I’ve done the same on my 2010 Q5 3.2. Exactly the same for the transmission for fluid, gasket and transmission mount. The only issue I had was stripping one bolt while installing the pan. For the transmission adaptation I did not reset the values. I just went for a drive and I only felt a flare between 2nd to 3rd, that was on my way to the back road to do the long ZF procedure. I did it 4 times and worked perfect since. Btw this was the first fluid change at 170k kms. Just for preventive maintenance. It was working perfect. Then this year, few months ago I went ahead and did the same with my 2010 S5 Tiptronic. Second fluid change since new, first at 180k (in 2016) and now at 220k. I also want to mention, for all differentials including center one I always used Royal Purple 75w90. Rated for GL4/GL5. And had friction modifier added. That expensive fluid has essential 4% extra friction modifier. Which is especially required when the car is new. I have never felt any chatter, noise, metal in oil. Works great. I’m waiting for more videos on the S8!! How’s it that going?
Thanks for chiming in - time will tell how quickly the A4 will feel "normal" again after the fluid change and adaptation reset/relearn, but I have heard from others (now including you) that the software portion of the work isn't absolutely necessary, given you spend the careful time doing driving adaptations. For me, the car was basically undriveable before doing any procedure after the fill.
I have the b8.5 repair manual and it doesn't even mention the fill hole (third plastic on the bottom)...It refers to the small plug on the side of the Z8 as the fill and check hole. The drip checking is done out of it as well.
15:39 The PT pump fits a gallon jug of washer fluid so pour all the transmission fluid into an empty clean dry jug and use the long straw from the pump kit.
Love the content. Interesting you felt no difference with the x brace. I put a similar x brace (Eurocode tuning) on my B8.5 allroad and it was a night and day difference in handling and road feel.
Fair point which makes me think; now that the car is lowered and as such, so is the center of mass, the additional stiffness is likely masked by the already limited roll left in the car.
@@FigureItAudi I also have the 034 solid rear sway bar on my allroad. I would say that made the most significant difference in handling. But beware it will make the car very uncomfortable on rough roads.
I was quoting this job on a 2011 A1 for a costumer and almost fell from the chair when dealer told me the centre diff oil was CAD$350 retail. Very good info on this video!! I was reading in Alldata that front diff has also the same oil requiremeinet that the rear if I remember right. Did you do the front as well? I think that Liqui Moly TopTec 1800 complies wit the same oil spec as the ZF oil
Thanks for this video, was able to get this job done and the biggest lesson learned was not dropping the oil pan! Still a messing job and all the oil just smells awful. Got a question: When taking the xbrace I had the same issue of not getting that steering hose mount off and notice you cut yours too. My steering hose is leaking just as bad but were you able to find that little mount that goes on the xbrace? Anyways looking forward to more videos and almost got my A4 B8 3.2L ready for winter. Just need a carbon clean and rework the fuel injectors.
I don't have a part number on hand but if you search for isolator, you should find it/something that will work. Alternatively, you could easily just go to a fastener store (not a big box, somewhere that specializes in hardware) and just buy a little stud with the same threads that you either tap or measure, stick a little rubber tubing on it, add a nut and washer on top and call it a day.
How is the A4 transmission performing after a few months. I have a 3.2L Q5 with 175K miles that hasn't had the transmission fluid changed based on Audi's "lifetime" claim. The 6 speed transmission currently doesn't have any noticeable problems and I'm interested in changing the fluid. Good idea?
Maybe. Based on my experience during and after the job, I'll say that it is unbelievably important to nail the fill procedure or, even with fresh fluid but not the correct fill level, you will have transmission issues like I encountered. This is one of those jobs where if you do it right, waste no materials and get those materials for a good price, you'll come out on top. But if you have an independent shop you like to work with and will do the job for an hour or 2 of labour and not pad material costs, it could very well be worth it, too. Now with the experience I have, I would do the job again but if you don't have multiple cars you think you'll eventually do the work on...it's a coin toss on the options above.
I purchased pretty much every variation of external (socket) and internal (helical reverse thread bits) Irwin extractors to help me navigate basically any situation, but it was these for the little bolts: geni.us/irwin-socketextractors
The answer is definitely a good independent shop - which everyone (an average joe, a UA-cam mechanic like me, and the real trained pros themselves) needs in their life. There have been and will continue to be times where I've screwed up projects and have to take a car in to get sorted, pride be damned. Finding a good indi shop that you can build a relationship over time will save you tons of time and money. There is very rarely an instance where taking a car to the dealer is absolutely necessary. Which is never for anything mechanical.
Any thoughts why there are folks out there talking about up to 10 liters of trans fluid going back in on a drain and fill? It seems to vary depending on resource but how to know?
I don't have a copy of the manual to confirm against right now but those larger numbers usually refer to the factory initial fill capacity - which technically, yes, is the actual amount the transmission should have in it. But the refill amount can be less than half of that number. I think the confusion (and I admit this got me during the process too, clearly) is the refill procedure is tricky and not clearly explained even in the manuals. In fact, even after all my work was done in this video (plus the shorts I added later to share further updates) - I was having issues with the transmission operating 100% smooth. When the refill is happening, you need to be sure the temperatures are bang on and the car is running on the stands/lift while the final fill is happening. There's fluid that will get pulled up into the trans only while under operation, allowing the last little bit of fluid to be added before spilling over the fill hole. Otherwise, the process will only ever yield like 90% of the refill capacity. It's still a simple job overall...just a steep learning curve.
@@FigureItAudi Thanks man! Yeah I followed all your steps, and it feels like the transmission is 90 percent better. But I have only a Foxwell VAG tool for the adaptation. So I can't tell if there's not enough fluid still or the adaptation didn't work that would result in a less then perfect shifting at this point. I did read that sometimes it's necessary to do two drain and fills to get it right. I love this car but man I'm almost ready for a Toyota!
A good indicator of if there's too little fluid is when you are at a stop and put the car in reverse. If you get some louder vibrations than normal while it's in the reverse gear, and movement at really low speeds is inconsistent under braking, you're likely not full. As long as you have the temperature right and are doing the final fill with the engine running, you should be good. I wouldn't drain it all again - red herring!
This is one of the best, most complete, most informative videos I have seen on this subject. As another poster mentions.....there is no other site or information that I can find that denotes this transmission as bottom fill or how to do it. One "Ask Audi Expert..." even states the fill plug is on the side of the transmission. Started my total oil service this weekend; Rear Diff, XFer case, Front diff, engine oil and got stumped after I drained the tranny oil, replaced the filter and gasket, reassembled and couldn't figure out how to fill it . Much Thanks!!!! This video is incredibly helpful and detailed.
Thanks for watching. Even though I've said this on other comments already I want to add it again for max visibility: I did post 2 Shorts after this video was published to add more insight on the adaptations and how critical it is to do the final fill, at temperature, with the car running, to nail the fill volume or you WILL be short by about a quart. Even the manual doesn't spell that out in plain terms. In hindsight, the entire process is quite simple but the execution has to be spot on.
@@FigureItAudi Thank You! Do recommend just running it up to 39C on the first go round to potentially get the extra fluid in?
@@davesnothereman7250 The fluid heats up pretty quick once it crests the mid 30's and keep in mind the fluid you're pumping in is room temperature so I'd get on it right away at like 35 and just make sure it's filled with the car running so the various solenoids are sucking up a portion of what sits in the pan, allowing you to get that true, max fill. You just need to be ready to act when the time is right.
Don’t even own an Audi but love your channel. Just started watching the s4 build
Great work Steve! December last year I’ve done the same on my 2010 Q5 3.2. Exactly the same for the transmission for fluid, gasket and transmission mount. The only issue I had was stripping one bolt while installing the pan. For the transmission adaptation I did not reset the values. I just went for a drive and I only felt a flare between 2nd to 3rd, that was on my way to the back road to do the long ZF procedure. I did it 4 times and worked perfect since. Btw this was the first fluid change at 170k kms. Just for preventive maintenance. It was working perfect. Then this year, few months ago I went ahead and did the same with my 2010 S5 Tiptronic. Second fluid change since new, first at 180k (in 2016) and now at 220k. I also want to mention, for all differentials including center one I always used Royal Purple 75w90. Rated for GL4/GL5. And had friction modifier added. That expensive fluid has essential 4% extra friction modifier. Which is especially required when the car is new. I have never felt any chatter, noise, metal in oil. Works great. I’m waiting for more videos on the S8!! How’s it that going?
Thanks for chiming in - time will tell how quickly the A4 will feel "normal" again after the fluid change and adaptation reset/relearn, but I have heard from others (now including you) that the software portion of the work isn't absolutely necessary, given you spend the careful time doing driving adaptations. For me, the car was basically undriveable before doing any procedure after the fill.
I have the b8.5 repair manual and it doesn't even mention the fill hole (third plastic on the bottom)...It refers to the small plug on the side of the Z8 as the fill and check hole. The drip checking is done out of it as well.
You should have alot more subscribers. Your videos are very crisp and educative
Love the content, keep it up
I feel you man, simple work changed in to a hustle :)
Keep making videos we all enjoy it.
15:39 The PT pump fits a gallon jug of washer fluid so pour all the transmission fluid into an empty clean dry jug and use the long straw from the pump kit.
Welcome back 😁😁
Love the content. Interesting you felt no difference with the x brace. I put a similar x brace (Eurocode tuning) on my B8.5 allroad and it was a night and day difference in handling and road feel.
Fair point which makes me think; now that the car is lowered and as such, so is the center of mass, the additional stiffness is likely masked by the already limited roll left in the car.
@@FigureItAudi I also have the 034 solid rear sway bar on my allroad. I would say that made the most significant difference in handling. But beware it will make the car very uncomfortable on rough roads.
I was quoting this job on a 2011 A1 for a costumer and almost fell from the chair when dealer told me the centre diff oil was CAD$350 retail.
Very good info on this video!!
I was reading in Alldata that front diff has also the same oil requiremeinet that the rear if I remember right. Did you do the front as well?
I think that Liqui Moly TopTec 1800 complies wit the same oil spec as the ZF oil
Can you tell me is there a difference between the ATF gearbox oil and the ZF gearbox oil for an ZF gearbox on an Audi A4 b8 from 2009?
Job well done man 👍🏽
Thanks for this video, was able to get this job done and the biggest lesson learned was not dropping the oil pan! Still a messing job and all the oil just smells awful.
Got a question: When taking the xbrace I had the same issue of not getting that steering hose mount off and notice you cut yours too. My steering hose is leaking just as bad but were you able to find that little mount that goes on the xbrace? Anyways looking forward to more videos and almost got my A4 B8 3.2L ready for winter. Just need a carbon clean and rework the fuel injectors.
I don't have a part number on hand but if you search for isolator, you should find it/something that will work. Alternatively, you could easily just go to a fastener store (not a big box, somewhere that specializes in hardware) and just buy a little stud with the same threads that you either tap or measure, stick a little rubber tubing on it, add a nut and washer on top and call it a day.
How is the A4 transmission performing after a few months. I have a 3.2L Q5 with 175K miles that hasn't had the transmission fluid changed based on Audi's "lifetime" claim. The 6 speed transmission currently doesn't have any noticeable problems and I'm interested in changing the fluid. Good idea?
Maybe. Based on my experience during and after the job, I'll say that it is unbelievably important to nail the fill procedure or, even with fresh fluid but not the correct fill level, you will have transmission issues like I encountered. This is one of those jobs where if you do it right, waste no materials and get those materials for a good price, you'll come out on top. But if you have an independent shop you like to work with and will do the job for an hour or 2 of labour and not pad material costs, it could very well be worth it, too. Now with the experience I have, I would do the job again but if you don't have multiple cars you think you'll eventually do the work on...it's a coin toss on the options above.
What screw extractor kit did you use for the snapped pan screws|?
I purchased pretty much every variation of external (socket) and internal (helical reverse thread bits) Irwin extractors to help me navigate basically any situation, but it was these for the little bolts: geni.us/irwin-socketextractors
I don't have the tools or the knowledge to do this job... But also, I don't trust the dealer to do it correctly either. A rock and a hard place.
The answer is definitely a good independent shop - which everyone (an average joe, a UA-cam mechanic like me, and the real trained pros themselves) needs in their life. There have been and will continue to be times where I've screwed up projects and have to take a car in to get sorted, pride be damned. Finding a good indi shop that you can build a relationship over time will save you tons of time and money. There is very rarely an instance where taking a car to the dealer is absolutely necessary. Which is never for anything mechanical.
Any thoughts why there are folks out there talking about up to 10 liters of trans fluid going back in on a drain and fill? It seems to vary depending on resource but how to know?
I don't have a copy of the manual to confirm against right now but those larger numbers usually refer to the factory initial fill capacity - which technically, yes, is the actual amount the transmission should have in it. But the refill amount can be less than half of that number. I think the confusion (and I admit this got me during the process too, clearly) is the refill procedure is tricky and not clearly explained even in the manuals. In fact, even after all my work was done in this video (plus the shorts I added later to share further updates) - I was having issues with the transmission operating 100% smooth. When the refill is happening, you need to be sure the temperatures are bang on and the car is running on the stands/lift while the final fill is happening. There's fluid that will get pulled up into the trans only while under operation, allowing the last little bit of fluid to be added before spilling over the fill hole. Otherwise, the process will only ever yield like 90% of the refill capacity. It's still a simple job overall...just a steep learning curve.
@@FigureItAudi Thanks man! Yeah I followed all your steps, and it feels like the transmission is 90 percent better. But I have only a Foxwell VAG tool for the adaptation. So I can't tell if there's not enough fluid still or the adaptation didn't work that would result in a less then perfect shifting at this point. I did read that sometimes it's necessary to do two drain and fills to get it right. I love this car but man I'm almost ready for a Toyota!
A good indicator of if there's too little fluid is when you are at a stop and put the car in reverse. If you get some louder vibrations than normal while it's in the reverse gear, and movement at really low speeds is inconsistent under braking, you're likely not full. As long as you have the temperature right and are doing the final fill with the engine running, you should be good. I wouldn't drain it all again - red herring!
good job, m8