Missed the premier, even though I'm taking the easy route this time around paying someone else to do the work (complete rebuild) to get warranty and save time and space. I've done this a couple times over the years twice to deal with rear main seal issues but it's nice to watch someone else do it. I really like these Fords and working on them.
You need to try to find a block of wood or something you can wedge between the motor and the firewall when you pull out the transmission from the motor. I had a shop pull my transmission one time and the motor fell back against the firewall and broke off some of the emissions piping going to the EGR valve. Didn't realize it till I got it home. Great videos! I appreciate it.
Another easy way to loosen torque converter bolts is to use a pry bar or screw driver on the teeth of the flex plate. Also use a jack to support the engine as tilts back when you pull the trans off.
Just a little tip, if you use those wobble sockets..wrap a little bit of electric tape around the elbow part of it. That allows it to still move around but keeps it from just flopping everywhere
Been waiting to comment on this. Had a rear main seal leak that I wanted to fix. No idea how to do it except pay heaps for someone else to do it. Job now done, so thanks for the excellent tutorials. For guys like me who can do it,but just don’t know how, these are excellent. Loved the one about the bonnet/hood latch with the aftermarket grill. Have a chuckle every time I see one now.
Yeah, people in a lot of money to replace rear main seal’s. It’s a lot of work, but I think anybody can do it. If you want an even bigger chuckle. When I was filming that, I actually slipped and fell 😂
Stevie.,...for taking off cooler lines, you definitely need to use two wrenches. One to hold the larger nut in place....and the other to loosen the smaller one, as you did in the video. If you only use the one wrench, you risk turning both....and twisting your cooler line. That happened to me once....so beware. I think you were fortunate on loosening your cooler lines this time around. Same is the case when you're reinstalling them. Need to always use two wrenches when loosening or tightening cooler lines.,,,to ensure one turns...and the other does not turn.
That’s a good point Joe! These had been loosened before when the transmission was rebuilt and then loosened when I rebuilt it again myself. But for others who have never touch the transmission, it is definitely a good idea to use two wrenches.
I installed a Derale transmission pan....with a drain plug...when I rebuilt my tranny 2 years ago. Very nice feature to have. Removing the pan is a messy job....when you are doing it at home. The AODE /4R70W looks more manageable than the E4od which looks like a bigger and heavier tranny....on my own truck. E4od weighs about twice as much....lol.
Another great video! 🔥 I need to fix the linkage in my 2010 E250 van. Was replaced under warranty last year but the warranty company ordered the wrong model, and I no longer have low gear. Drive and second is it.
I am so jealous. The first time I dropped my transmission by myself, I had a 40 dollar Walmart jack, a bottle jack from who knows when and 2 ratchet straps. My transmission is not small, 92 e40d mated to the 7.5L, weighs almost twice my weight the new one does. I turned the flywheel by using some square stock and pushing it, I don't even want to talk about how many times I cranked the 460 over with the bar on a fly wheel, also I HAD to remove my collector to get the dumb thing out cause it's just a big Y-pipe that would block the trans from coming out, well fun fact, it was too big to just plop out so I had to wrestle it around and actually remove it from the front by bringing it under the ttb axle (absolute nightmare, there ARE easier ways). All in all after getting screwed over numerous times on transmissions and just not being smart enough I've dropped the transmission like 5 times, finally got a built one from monster transmission, put it in, now my rear main is going. If anyone wants more stories let me know lol but yeah I hate transmissions now (For anyone curious it's a 92 f250 XLT Lariat 7.5L 460ci 169,000k on body 30k on crate engine and like 5 on stage 3 race transmission with Thor torque converter 1300-1600 Stall Multi-Clutch Billet Lid, on 35s with quick video on my channel)
I WISH YOU ALL THE BEST LUCK WITH YOUR TRANSMISSION THAT YOU NEVER HAVE TO DEAL WITH WHAT I DEALT WITH, though you don't seem like an idiot, like me, so you already got a head start
Wow!! That sounds like a nightmare! But hey, you got it done and you have a pretty good idea of better methods to get the job done if you ever do it again.
It would've helped a lot if you would've had another jack or something to support the engine. The dowels would've come out much easier.. Also would reduce stress on the engine mounts.
Great tutorial on a job I hope I never have to do! However there is some leakage between the engine and transmission that will need attention at some point…. Thanks for taking the time to film it - I know how much longer it makes the job. 👍🏻
Thanks man!🤙 Yeah I hope this is my last too! Lol if you have a leak between your engine and transmission it’s typically the rear main seal. I filmed how to do that after I removed the transmission for this video. You’re welcome! It definitely adds a good 30 minutes to an hour to each project depending on what it is.
@@TheMinuteMasters I had my mechanic trying to find out why my tranny downshifts all the time when the engine gets hot. I can drive it for hours before the shifting problems happen. He finally found the problem and said it was some electrical connector on the transmission that is getting leaked on. He did not say exactly what it was but said the connector can only come from Ford. He told me to take it to a transmission shop since they do not work on transmissions and he is a retired Ford Service guy who opened his own shop. He said back in the day he worked on the these model F150 truck you have. What electrical connector he was talking about?
@@bernardlock2728 There are three electricians connectors on the outside of the transmission. I wonder if that’s what he’s referring to. I show you how to disconnect them in this video. Otherwise the only other electrical connectors are inside the transmission. You can see them if you take the transmission pan off. Now that I think of it. I think one of the shift related electrical sensors is inside the transmission pan.
@@TheMinuteMasters I think he not say it was on the outside of the transmission but he said it was getting fluid on it. It it was on the outside, would I have a transmission leak on the ground? There is no evidence of a transmission leak while it is parked so could it be happening while it was driven? It would need to be replaced which is why is he said I need to take it to a transmission shop. Do you know what the name of it to say to Ford so I can order the part?
@@bernardlock2728 That’s hard to say if an external look would fault one of the sensors. The sensor could be exposed on the inside too. Unfortunately, I don’t know the names or part numbers for any of the sensors. I would try searching the harness to see what the plugs go too.
Honestly, it is straightforward once you know the steps. It’s not a fast process and definitely takes time. So in that sense it’s not easy. You’ll be fine though. It’s more daunting than it is.
@@Hunt-ug7vkyea I did but my engine block had a crack in it so ended up replacing the entire engine it’s not to hard to do just make sure u have all the correct tools
Dude!!🤦♂️ It was a nightmare of a struggle. I really need to get the back end off the ground so I can just put the transmission onto the Jack and roll it under the frame.
I’m about to remove my transmission today and some manual. Going to change the rear main seal unfortunately rear main seal I’m removing is only four years old, but that’s how it goes I guess
I noticed it’s a lot easier to get to the top transmission bolts on a truck than a suv I’m changing the flex plate on my 05 navigator and it’s a pain. I’m stuck on the passenger side top bolt.
You might want to check and see if your rear main seal needs replacement while you are in there. Would be a great time to replace it while the transmission is out?
Sounds like a vacuum line issue. Check all the under hood vacuum lines on the passenger side and check all the vacuum lines under the dash. They all operate different AC doors.
Very good question! I think pulling a transmission is easier. There’s less to disconnect and you can’t scratch the body. Removing an engine involves disconnecting quite a bit and you can risk scratches and damage as you hoist it in and out. With that said, I would be afraid to do one versus the other.
@@johnbennett6887 So what most people do, is unbolt the engine and hoist it up a few inches. Apparently that gives you enough clearance to remove the oil pan. I don’t think removing the transmission is necessary.
Honestly, it’s an arduous process but the steps are straightforward which makes it look easy. Basically, knowing the steps makes it much easier than going at it blind.
@@trencher325 unfortunately I don’t have a video showing how to remove a 4x4 transmission. However, I am converting my 2wd truck to 4 x 4. So there will be an install video.
I have the same exact truck as you and my truck does not have that rubber line for The transmission coolant it's just hard line. I think someone came in previously before you and cut that
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah I ended up just pulling the plug on the transmission and using a garden hose to pump it out! Thanks for the great video I wouldn't have known where to start without it man!
Great video and it looks like the transmission jack stand is a big help. Dumb question but why doesn’t the transmission casing need a gasket to prevent leaks? Obviously the seal seems to be fine when torqued but it had me wondering.
Thanks man!🤙 The transmission jack is a huge help. I’m not even sure how you would do this repair comfortably, safely, and efficiently without one. So the transmission bell housing does not need a gasket up against the back of the engine because no fluids are being contained.
@@TheMinuteMasters exactly and thanks for confirming the jack. Oh shit so no fluids in the bell housing casing. Just in the converter itself. Greenhorn here on my pulled apart 68 F-250 in driveway. Live and learn from your UA-cam channel.
@@mredmister3014 Yup! Only fluid in the converter, the transmission body, and copper lines.🤙 Nice! Well learning while doing is typically the best method. Thanks man!
Funny say that. I have one, but I didn’t check to see if it would work on that. The one fitting is definitely round a little bit and needed the channel locks.
I'm kinda new to working on vehicles, I am about to fix my uncle's 95 f150, it needs a new starter and torque converter. I am not sure if it even runs, is there another way to drain the transmission fluid through the cooler lines without turning the truck on?
A transmission jack, 1/2” impact gun, and torque wrench are the three most important tools that make this job easier. Otherwise, typical socket sets and wrenches are all that are needed for the rest of the work. You will need a 13mm socket with the star pattern (12 points) to remove the four drive shaft bolts.
I see you're doing it the hard way. Lol. Thankfully I have a mechanic friend and it only cost me a hundred dollars and a case of beer to use my friends lift.
@@TheMinuteMasters would it be alright if I ask you for your advice and tips on this ford engine 😅 since I'm new and trying to restore it, I'm nervous about it.
Hey Steve 🤠 Another excellent video mate 👍 I reckon you've given me enough 'kahunas' to try this myself. I mean what's the worst that could happen? (The truck spontaneously combusts, I wind up with a 4r70w indent in my skull... All good 🤣). I don't have a transmission jack. Do you think a floor jack would work? Thanks again Steve 🤠
Thanks Greg!🤙 I appreciate you always watching! it honestly looks worse than it actually is. With that said it’s definitely not something to take lightly. Buy all the right tools and take your time. Right! Lololol For this you’ll definitely want a transmission jack. I put a link for one down in the description. I’m pretty sure that is the one I bought in 2017 to do this the first time.
I think your chances are pretty slim. The bell housing bolts are fairly large and hefty. You may need a little heat or some penetrating oil for the crossmember bolts. The torque converter to flex plate nuts should come off fine.
The first time around I removed the exhaust and the rust made it an all day job. The second time around, I left the exhaust in place. Took a little finesse but it beat having to remove the exhaust.
What transmission is it? If the bell house bolt pattern is the same it will connect. However, what I don’t know is if a transmission typically spec’ed for a f150 will work with a f250.
Have you looked at the letter code on the door jamb sticker? The letter code if you search it should tell you what you have. The bolt pattern and trans pan shape will tell you what transmission you have. Finally, there is a steel ID tag above the pan on the passenger side of the transmission.
@@TheMinuteMasters oh okay thanks for all your help I would look in the door jam but when I bought the truck the stick in the door jam was removed, so I will definitely look on the passenger side of the transmission
@@TheMinuteMasters man this video comes at a great time for me. My torque converter seal is leaking really bad too. Probably doing this myself very soon too…
So with 4x4, you will need to removed the front drive shaft and you will need to either remove the transmission and transfer case together or you will need to remove the t-case separately.
Yep. Lol This transmission has been put through a lot. lol I paid $2900 to rebuild it in 2016. That rebuild had a minor issue which caused the overdrive to burn out in 2017. Then I rebuilt the overdrive in 2017. Now I had to replace the torque converter seal.
@@JoeRocket-sf6qs Damn! That sucks. How did you find out it wasn’t properly seated. Typically if it isn’t seated properly you can’t even bolt the transmission back because the torque converter sticks out too far.
@@TheMinuteMasters it bolted up fine,just wasn't engaged enough and tore up the fluid pump,which could have been repaired but the cost was similar to a low mileage used replacement transmission,so that's the path I took,I still have my old transmission just incase I need a part off it.
Sorry to hear that man. Installing a transmission is all about prep (having right parts and tools) and research (knowing the steps). If you have those two things figured out, it’s a time thing.
Now for the hard part, taking it apart and putting it back together better then the engineer cause you have extra parts still after it's all done.
Hahahaha! Actually, I had no bolts leftover. I know…I tried improving the design. Lol
I've seen them put Ratchet Straps under the Transmission, so you can pull the Jack out and lower it with them.
@@bobbywren123 this could work decently with 2 comealongs and a the cable held in place on like a creeper. Trans sits on creeper and you lower it down
Definitely a shift kit in it. My 94 f150 has it in it and boy what a difference. Wish the factory would have installed them in the 90s.
@@chrisbukowski865 I have a TransGo shift kit and I love it. It wakes up the transmission big time!🤙
Missed the premier, even though I'm taking the easy route this time around paying someone else to do the work (complete rebuild) to get warranty and save time and space. I've done this a couple times over the years twice to deal with rear main seal issues but it's nice to watch someone else do it. I really like these Fords and working on them.
Not a problem man! I’ll probably take the easy way out if I have an issue as well. I’ve checked the box on this type of thing twice.
You need to try to find a block of wood or something you can wedge between the motor and the firewall when you pull out the transmission from the motor. I had a shop pull my transmission one time and the motor fell back against the firewall and broke off some of the emissions piping going to the EGR valve. Didn't realize it till I got it home. Great videos! I appreciate it.
Thanks for the tip!🤙
Thank you! I appreciate it!
Another easy way to loosen torque converter bolts is to use a pry bar or screw driver on the teeth of the flex plate. Also use a jack to support the engine as tilts back when you pull the trans off.
That’s not a bad idea. I’ll keep that in mind if I do this again.
I’ll have to get a taller jack stand to support the engine.
Just a little tip, if you use those wobble sockets..wrap a little bit of electric tape around the elbow part of it. That allows it to still move around but keeps it from just flopping everywhere
Good tip! I like it!🤙
Been waiting to comment on this. Had a rear main seal leak that I wanted to fix. No idea how to do it except pay heaps for someone else to do it.
Job now done, so thanks for the excellent tutorials.
For guys like me who can do it,but just don’t know how, these are excellent.
Loved the one about the bonnet/hood latch with the aftermarket grill. Have a chuckle every time I see one now.
Yeah, people in a lot of money to replace rear main seal’s. It’s a lot of work, but I think anybody can do it.
If you want an even bigger chuckle. When I was filming that, I actually slipped and fell 😂
Stevie.,...for taking off cooler lines, you definitely need to use two wrenches. One to hold the larger nut in place....and the other to loosen the smaller one, as you did in the video. If you only use the one wrench, you risk turning both....and twisting your cooler line. That happened to me once....so beware. I think you were fortunate on loosening your cooler lines this time around. Same is the case when you're reinstalling them. Need to always use two wrenches when loosening or tightening cooler lines.,,,to ensure one turns...and the other does not turn.
That’s a good point Joe! These had been loosened before when the transmission was rebuilt and then loosened when I rebuilt it again myself. But for others who have never touch the transmission, it is definitely a good idea to use two wrenches.
I installed a Derale transmission pan....with a drain plug...when I rebuilt my tranny 2 years ago. Very nice feature to have. Removing the pan is a messy job....when you are doing it at home. The AODE /4R70W looks more manageable than the E4od which looks like a bigger and heavier tranny....on my own truck. E4od weighs about twice as much....lol.
Another great video! 🔥 I need to fix the linkage in my 2010 E250 van. Was replaced under warranty last year but the warranty company ordered the wrong model, and I no longer have low gear. Drive and second is it.
Thanks Jerry! That sucks. At least it’s accessible fix right on the side of the transmission.
I am so jealous. The first time I dropped my transmission by myself, I had a 40 dollar Walmart jack, a bottle jack from who knows when and 2 ratchet straps. My transmission is not small, 92 e40d mated to the 7.5L, weighs almost twice my weight the new one does. I turned the flywheel by using some square stock and pushing it, I don't even want to talk about how many times I cranked the 460 over with the bar on a fly wheel, also I HAD to remove my collector to get the dumb thing out cause it's just a big Y-pipe that would block the trans from coming out, well fun fact, it was too big to just plop out so I had to wrestle it around and actually remove it from the front by bringing it under the ttb axle (absolute nightmare, there ARE easier ways). All in all after getting screwed over numerous times on transmissions and just not being smart enough I've dropped the transmission like 5 times, finally got a built one from monster transmission, put it in, now my rear main is going. If anyone wants more stories let me know lol but yeah I hate transmissions now (For anyone curious it's a 92 f250 XLT Lariat 7.5L 460ci 169,000k on body 30k on crate engine and like 5 on stage 3 race transmission with Thor torque converter 1300-1600 Stall Multi-Clutch Billet Lid, on 35s with quick video on my channel)
I WISH YOU ALL THE BEST LUCK WITH YOUR TRANSMISSION THAT YOU NEVER HAVE TO DEAL WITH WHAT I DEALT WITH, though you don't seem like an idiot, like me, so you already got a head start
Wow!! That sounds like a nightmare! But hey, you got it done and you have a pretty good idea of better methods to get the job done if you ever do it again.
It would've helped a lot if you would've had another jack or something to support the engine. The dowels would've come out much easier.. Also would reduce stress on the engine mounts.
True
Great tutorial on a job I hope I never have to do! However there is some leakage between the engine and transmission that will need attention at some point…. Thanks for taking the time to film it - I know how much longer it makes the job. 👍🏻
Thanks man!🤙 Yeah I hope this is my last too! Lol if you have a leak between your engine and transmission it’s typically the rear main seal. I filmed how to do that after I removed the transmission for this video.
You’re welcome! It definitely adds a good 30 minutes to an hour to each project depending on what it is.
@@TheMinuteMasters I had my mechanic trying to find out why my tranny downshifts all the time when the engine gets hot. I can drive it for hours before the shifting problems happen. He finally found the problem and said it was some electrical connector on the transmission that is getting leaked on. He did not say exactly what it was but said the connector can only come from Ford. He told me to take it to a transmission shop since they do not work on transmissions and he is a retired Ford Service guy who opened his own shop. He said back in the day he worked on the these model F150 truck you have. What electrical connector he was talking about?
@@bernardlock2728 There are three electricians connectors on the outside of the transmission. I wonder if that’s what he’s referring to. I show you how to disconnect them in this video.
Otherwise the only other electrical connectors are inside the transmission. You can see them if you take the transmission pan off. Now that I think of it. I think one of the shift related electrical sensors is inside the transmission pan.
@@TheMinuteMasters I think he not say it was on the outside of the transmission but he said it was getting fluid on it. It it was on the outside, would I have a transmission leak on the ground? There is no evidence of a transmission leak while it is parked so could it be happening while it was driven? It would need to be replaced which is why is he said I need to take it to a transmission shop. Do you know what the name of it to say to Ford so I can order the part?
@@bernardlock2728 That’s hard to say if an external look would fault one of the sensors. The sensor could be exposed on the inside too. Unfortunately, I don’t know the names or part numbers for any of the sensors. I would try searching the harness to see what the plugs go too.
U made this look so easy. Have to take mine out to pop my freeze plug back in on Monday totally dreading it 😅 wish me luck 🍀
Honestly, it is straightforward once you know the steps. It’s not a fast process and definitely takes time. So in that sense it’s not easy. You’ll be fine though. It’s more daunting than it is.
Did you get it done, 2023 here 😅 my transmission needs to be removed but I'm worried about the cooler lines.
@@Hunt-ug7vkyea I did but my engine block had a crack in it so ended up replacing the entire engine it’s not to hard to do just make sure u have all the correct tools
itll be fun putting it back onto the jack...
Dude!!🤦♂️ It was a nightmare of a struggle. I really need to get the back end off the ground so I can just put the transmission onto the Jack and roll it under the frame.
I’m about to remove my transmission today and some manual. Going to change the rear main seal unfortunately rear main seal I’m removing is only four years old, but that’s how it goes I guess
Good luck, my man! Take your time make sure of all the right parts, and have some good music playing.
This is what youtube was made for!
You bet!!🤙
super helpful and detailed. Thank you for making this! definitely one of the better tutorials. Im very grateful
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it.
No kidding - one of the absolute best home mechanic videos I've watched EVER.
Thank you for the video! very in depth and easy to follow
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it.
I noticed it’s a lot easier to get to the top transmission bolts on a truck than a suv I’m changing the flex plate on my 05 navigator and it’s a pain. I’m stuck on the passenger side top bolt.
This is true. There’s more space.
@Rafael Fuentes, I feel your pain, just busted a swivel adapter trying to get my top passenger bolt out today!
You might want to check and see if your
rear main seal needs replacement
while you are in there. Would be a great
time to replace it while the transmission
is out?
That’s exactly what I did Terry! I replaced it and filmed it too!🤙
thanks man .!!!! very good video,straight to the point no b,s, thanks
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it!
You do a great job. How many hours does this take?
Thanks man!🤙 I would figure 8 hours to pull and prep for another install. Then installation is another 8 hours.
What should I look for are do if there is only air blowing out of the window vents and no air blowing out of the other vents
Sounds like a vacuum line issue. Check all the under hood vacuum lines on the passenger side and check all the vacuum lines under the dash. They all operate different AC doors.
Vent actuator passenger side fender/firewall. It's.vacuum operated. Look for vacuum leak.
When it comes to the computer stuff do these transmissions have any issues as far as reinstalling after a rebuild
I haven’t had any issues yet.
Great Channel Bro!! Thanks for share! Regards from Chile!!!🤟
Thanks Christopher!🤙 You’re welcome!
How much easier is it to remove the trans vs the engine? I know you have had the pleasure of doing both! Thanks
Very good question! I think pulling a transmission is easier. There’s less to disconnect and you can’t scratch the body.
Removing an engine involves disconnecting quite a bit and you can risk scratches and damage as you hoist it in and out.
With that said, I would be afraid to do one versus the other.
@@TheMinuteMasters Do you think it would be easier to remove the oil pan (to replace the gasket) if the trans is out? Thanks
@@johnbennett6887 So what most people do, is unbolt the engine and hoist it up a few inches. Apparently that gives you enough clearance to remove the oil pan. I don’t think removing the transmission is necessary.
You make it look so easy
Honestly, it’s an arduous process but the steps are straightforward which makes it look easy. Basically, knowing the steps makes it much easier than going at it blind.
@@TheMinuteMasters do you have a video on removing one with 4WD? Might be under taking this project
@@trencher325 unfortunately I don’t have a video showing how to remove a 4x4 transmission. However, I am converting my 2wd truck to 4 x 4. So there will be an install video.
really good content 👍🏼
I have the same exact truck as you and my truck does not have that rubber line for The transmission coolant it's just hard line. I think someone came in previously before you and cut that
That could be.
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah I ended up just pulling the plug on the transmission and using a garden hose to pump it out! Thanks for the great video I wouldn't have known where to start without it man!
@@ching574 no problem man!🤙
Can't wait to see it
In my opinion, this video is way better than the first transmission removal video I filmed. 😁 More footage, actual work, and less talking.
It's got a new tork converter.probably get a transmission cooler for it to to keep it cool
Good point!
Good job very informative
Great video and it looks like the transmission jack stand is a big help. Dumb question but why doesn’t the transmission casing need a gasket to prevent leaks? Obviously the seal seems to be fine when torqued but it had me wondering.
Thanks man!🤙 The transmission jack is a huge help. I’m not even sure how you would do this repair comfortably, safely, and efficiently without one.
So the transmission bell housing does not need a gasket up against the back of the engine because no fluids are being contained.
@@TheMinuteMasters exactly and thanks for confirming the jack. Oh shit so no fluids in the bell housing casing. Just in the converter itself. Greenhorn here on my pulled apart 68 F-250 in driveway. Live and learn from your UA-cam channel.
@@mredmister3014 Yup! Only fluid in the converter, the transmission body, and copper lines.🤙 Nice! Well learning while doing is typically the best method. Thanks man!
A Line Wrench might be better on those Trans Fittings.
Funny say that. I have one, but I didn’t check to see if it would work on that. The one fitting is definitely round a little bit and needed the channel locks.
very good job
Thanks man!🤙
Ya that bracket up there that u decided to skip was the 1 thing i watched ur video 4...
Which bracket? Was it an exhaust bracket or something else?
I'm kinda new to working on vehicles, I am about to fix my uncle's 95 f150, it needs a new starter and torque converter. I am not sure if it even runs, is there another way to drain the transmission fluid through the cooler lines without turning the truck on?
Very good question. You can drop the transmission pan and just let gravity do its thing for 30 minutes.
What tools did you use if I may ask?
A transmission jack, 1/2” impact gun, and torque wrench are the three most important tools that make this job easier. Otherwise, typical socket sets and wrenches are all that are needed for the rest of the work.
You will need a 13mm socket with the star pattern (12 points) to remove the four drive shaft bolts.
Thanks, I'm only sixteen years old but you got 3 subscribers I'm going to subscribe to you on moms acount and fathers acount. Thank you
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it!
Great video
New sub...Huge Thank You for great video.
Thanks for subscribing man!
You’re welcome!
@ 0:29 (where you added extra hose) is that our return line??
That’s the feed to the cooler.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks bro. Im thinking to add another cool right between THAT line.
@@demariojason That’s a good idea!
I see you're doing it the hard way. Lol. Thankfully I have a mechanic friend and it only cost me a hundred dollars and a case of beer to use my friends lift.
Ah! You are like Kyle! A lift would have be amazing!
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah. It went alot faster. I've been there doing it the hard way on another f150 I used to own.
@@kylestivers4606 I’m sure it was pretty fast. Honestly if I could do this again but much faster, I wouldn’t mind doing it a lot.
How did you get the fluid to come out by starting the truck?
The transmission naturally pumps the fluid out because it automatically pumps the fluid through the cooling system.
What size socket do i use for my crank to turn it over?
I can’t remember exactly but I think it’s either 7/8 or a 22 mm.
Do you have a video of restoring a 1980 ford engine 300 ? 😅
I’ve worked in an 1981 and 1982 F100s with 300s in them. No videos unfortunately.
@@TheMinuteMasters would it be alright if I ask you for your advice and tips on this ford engine 😅 since I'm new and trying to restore it, I'm nervous about it.
@@Hunt-ug7vk you sure can!
Hey Steve 🤠
Another excellent video mate 👍
I reckon you've given me enough 'kahunas' to try this myself. I mean what's the worst that could happen? (The truck spontaneously combusts, I wind up with a 4r70w indent in my skull... All good 🤣). I don't have a transmission jack. Do you think a floor jack would work? Thanks again Steve 🤠
Thanks Greg!🤙 I appreciate you always watching! it honestly looks worse than it actually is. With that said it’s definitely not something to take lightly. Buy all the right tools and take your time. Right! Lololol
For this you’ll definitely want a transmission jack. I put a link for one down in the description. I’m pretty sure that is the one I bought in 2017 to do this the first time.
00:16:53 dip stick, I forgot to pull mine out. oops!
Yeah me too! Lol
So it’s perfectly ok to start the truck and let all the fluid run out of the trans through coolant lines?
Yes, you are shifting gears or putting any load on the internals.
Starting today I'll give you an update😅😂
What’s the chance of twisting a bolt off or breaking one off because my 95 is 27 years old?
I think your chances are pretty slim. The bell housing bolts are fairly large and hefty. You may need a little heat or some penetrating oil for the crossmember bolts. The torque converter to flex plate nuts should come off fine.
Hi do you need to remove the exhaust to do this job?
The first time around I removed the exhaust and the rust made it an all day job. The second time around, I left the exhaust in place. Took a little finesse but it beat having to remove the exhaust.
To get the top bell housing bolts, what is the length of the extensions?
I used an 18”, 12”, and two 6” extensions.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks!
Do u know if the transmission from my 93 f150 extended cab with a 351 would fit in a 94 f250 single cab with a 460?
What transmission is it?
If the bell house bolt pattern is the same it will connect. However, what I don’t know is if a transmission typically spec’ed for a f150 will work with a f250.
Nope, small block and big block have different bellhousings. Probably too late to help you, but may help someone else.
gotta take one off at the junk yard, jacks not allowed. using a tire...Thanks!
I have I 1996 ford f-150 5.0 with an automatic transmission and I have been tying to find the exact model of it. Do you happen to know?
Have you looked at the letter code on the door jamb sticker? The letter code if you search it should tell you what you have.
The bolt pattern and trans pan shape will tell you what transmission you have.
Finally, there is a steel ID tag above the pan on the passenger side of the transmission.
@@TheMinuteMasters oh okay thanks for all your help I would look in the door jam but when I bought the truck the stick in the door jam was removed, so I will definitely look on the passenger side of the transmission
great content thanks
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it!
My 302 sounds like a Harley while accelerating any suggestions?
Sounds like an exhaust issue. Is it too loud?
@@TheMinuteMasters it’s mostly noticeable when accelerating. It’s gone while idling in stop lights
@@aarondesantiago3518 I would check you exhaust. Could be a leak that opens more while moving, hence the louder exhaust note.
So if you dont mind me asking what happened to your transmission that you had to remove it?🤔
Hey Terry! The torque converter seal was leaking.
@@TheMinuteMasters man this video comes at a great time for me. My torque converter seal is leaking really bad too. Probably doing this myself very soon too…
Is this the same on a 2wd vs a 4x4?
So with 4x4, you will need to removed the front drive shaft and you will need to either remove the transmission and transfer case together or you will need to remove the t-case separately.
Did it not have a dipstick to deal with?
The dipstick is held in place buy two of the bell housing bolts. Then it simple pulls out of the transmission.
@@TheMinuteMasters Awesome, Thanks!
14:00 + Removing the cross member
Got a vid putting it back inl
Yup, should be in the transmission playlist. I have an old and new video.
Is that the one you rebuilt? :(
Yep. Lol This transmission has been put through a lot. lol I paid $2900 to rebuild it in 2016. That rebuild had a minor issue which caused the overdrive to burn out in 2017. Then I rebuilt the overdrive in 2017. Now I had to replace the torque converter seal.
@@TheMinuteMasters ugh I hate that for ya! I'm actually having mine built in cedar rapids! Got a 3800 stall built, should boogie.
@@QuikModsOBS I know sucks. Hell yeah! That’s going to be awesome!
I’m fina be a mechanic..
Sure would be easier if a guy had a Lift, you could stand up under it.
I wish Bobby! That would’ve made this job so much easier.
Buy a transmission jack.
Definitely
Those gussets/supports suck when your truck is a rusty turd. Ask me how I know.
I don’t doubt it!
Ｐｒⓞм𝕠𝕤𝐌 🤘
Better make sure that is re-assembled properly or your gonna be doing it twice,ask me how I know.
You bet! What didn’t go right for you?
@@TheMinuteMasters my torque converter was not properly seated and it ruined the pump,I had to buy a new used transmission.1100.00$ total.
@@JoeRocket-sf6qs Damn! That sucks. How did you find out it wasn’t properly seated. Typically if it isn’t seated properly you can’t even bolt the transmission back because the torque converter sticks out too far.
@@TheMinuteMasters it bolted up fine,just wasn't engaged enough and tore up the fluid pump,which could have been repaired but the cost was similar to a low mileage used replacement transmission,so that's the path I took,I still have my old transmission just incase I need a part off it.
@@JoeRocket-sf6qs So when it tore up the fluid pump, did your truck stop driving or did it have another issue?
Like a Boss !!
i now feel more discourage to buy that 600$ pick up with the transmission on the bed, waiting to be put back together. thanx steve
Sorry to hear that man. Installing a transmission is all about prep (having right parts and tools) and research (knowing the steps). If you have those two things figured out, it’s a time thing.