@CashitGadget TradeIn: as much tension until the belts vibrate at 99hz. We recommend the same intervals as Ducati: 12,000 miles or 2 years. We do have a few customers who feel safe running to 20,000 miles. We continue to research the factors contributing to the belts needing replacement, but we suggest Ducati factory interval.
so is the reason for marking the belts that, when removing them, the pulleys could change position, hence disrupting the timing..but if you mark them, you'll be able to determine the number of teeth that should be between the two "pulley markers" and effectively restore the appropriate timing?
Thanks for your vids. I just have a question. Should the crankshaft and flywheel be aligned before all this procedure. I mean, the piston should be at all way up before the intake valve startes to work? Or do we just get worried about these marks you made and there is no difference where piston and valves are once the motor is already working sycronised?
Excellent video. I wonder one thing: Do you have to have a microphone? Is there no other way to check this? In the 750-900 SS engine can use an Allen trick? It does not work on the 1000 DS engine?
Hi, thank you for making this video. The upper vertical cam moved when I removed the old belt. Im pretty sure it rotated clockwise. I move it counterclockwise with the timing mark on the cam and case lining up (just like before). Is it relevant that the cam moved clockwise/counterclockwise as long the timing marks lines back up? The reason why I ask is after I installed the belts, my ‘05 Monster S2R wont fire up. It cranks (I hear gas pumping, I can smell gas getting dumped into the exhaust) and very faint rumbles from the engine/exhaust. Any idea what is happening? Thanks in advance.
It doesn't matter if the cam moves as long as the cam is in the correct position when the belt in installed. This is why we recommend painting the sprockets and the belts before the old ones are removed. The engine not starting is unrelated to the belts. You'll need to make sure there is spark happening. -Krista
Thanks for the video. I'm trying to understand why old belts need to be marked but it's simply flying over my head. Why would you have to match an old belt to a new one based on a marking on the old, since the entire belt is uniform throughout? Aside from matching up the natural bend of the belt with a cam pulley, I don't understand what the purpose is of marking an old belt and transferring that mark to the new one. Could you please explain this to me? Thanks in advance.
You can apply marks to the new belts with the same number of teeth between them which helps confirm timing. It adds redundancy to the marks on the sprockets lining up to the engine.
Thank you for your interest in our how to videos. We apologize for not posting your comments right away, but UA-cam comments are on the back burner while we get through the summer time rush at our shop In the future, if you have questions regarding our videos please email us
Honestly, I recommend against trying that on the previous generation two valve engines. Got get a 796 engine. But the 796 is a better chassis... so... go get a 796?
If they're in plastic and not exposed to the sun, shelf life is indefinite. BesTorq in Nebraska is the manufacturer/importer and they keep a sample belt from each run sealed in plastic and check the rubber every year. They're still fresh. 👍
You cannot move the engine to the correct rotation for the belt change against the engine compression. You need to remove the sparkplugs so there is no compression in the cylinders
I don't know why Ducati don't put a hole in the pulley through to the head and crankcase for pegs to go through locking them in position especially helpful on the rear cylinder where the cam can turn. Making it completely foolproof.
Good instructional video, but we never saw you use the special tool you said we needed to perform the old belt removal and new belt installation. Your editing made me feel like I missed something
Hi Scott, when we shot the video, we hadn't really been made aware of the cam locking tools. That was before we were machining down bolts and selling those. The tool from Ducati was $30 last time I checked. Sorry, Krista
Hey Chris, indeed help finding an oil leak on my duc monster 800 S. It slightly leaks underneath the timing belt cover, any idea as to where it might be?
Could be the seal behind the shaft driving the belts. I've changed it once. Get the special tool for the castle nut, a new nut, remove the sprockets. Then I used a wood screw and a slide hammer to remove the seal. Put plastic bag over the sharp areas on the shaft and press in a new seal.
@@CaCycleworks me again. So I looked into the diagram and I can't seem to find any "lay shaft seal" or any seal at all, would it happen to be the entire layshaft?
@@xavierbanda798 on PDF page 29 of the parts catalog titled "Drawing 010", I believe it is item #16: 93785.1830 "Seal ring" You might want to befriend someone who has some experience with Ducatis to help you with all this??
Is (DIY) Ducati servicing comparable to for e.g. Honda servicing? I've recently fallen in love with Ducati bikes after my boss showed me his collection (999, 848, 748, two Hypermotards and a Desmosedici. Anyway,) but I didn't buy a Duc before due to the potential need of expensive special tools. Is it just as easy for basic servicing (chain, clutch, belts, brakes etc.)? Great video!
how about this " make sure the dots on the pully stay alined with the case markings" i still dont see the logic in counting the teeth on the belt. Also, keeping the bike in gear would solve that problem. thanks for posting.
When timing belt is off the sprockets, bike in gear isn't attached to the cam any more. We make a tool to use the cam locking feature in the other side of the heads. CLT2V
I'm in the same boat as you, not understanding the reason for marking old belts and transferring markings onto new belts, if you are aligned with the pulley/case markings and in TDC. Just trying to learn here, as it will be my first time changing belts. I posted above your comment.
I understand, of course you put the crankshaft pulley on his mark on the block and the both camshaft pulley's too ( there is a mark on the cyl.heads too ). If all the marks are in place , why you mark the belts too ? That is not necessary, I guess ....
I didn't think of that! I do worry, however, some engine flavors might change up the process or the parts. But I like having the technician engaged in the process and by making their own marks, helps prevent errors.
Sorry for the delay in response. We mark the belts because the cam can move even the slightest bit and therefore the dots on the cam may not be lined up once the belt is on. The markings insure it goes on right and is a fail safe. We have heard of customers bending their valves from being one tooth off after changing their timing belts and that is why we implemented the belt marking task. Thank you
there is no need to count just top dead center 2008 hyper 1100s all 3 marks line up remove the belts front first then rear nothing turns nothing moves....
Yes. There's also no need to use the cam lock tool. The point is to minimize the chance for error. Not everyone is as good as you are. Not even me - I've bent valves before.
Hi Ralph, we all strive to be your level of perfection. 👍 The point of the the counting and transferring of dots is another level of double checking one's own work. Having bent valves because a sprocket was 1 tooth off, I consider the nonsense worth the effort and derision of perfect people.
Super clear and didastic ! Thanks.
@CashitGadget TradeIn: as much tension until the belts vibrate at 99hz. We recommend the same intervals as Ducati: 12,000 miles or 2 years. We do have a few customers who feel safe running to 20,000 miles. We continue to research the factors contributing to the belts needing replacement, but we suggest Ducati factory interval.
Hey Chris thanks for the videos!
Thank you for the feedback.
don't forget to turn by hand 15-20 turns so the belts "set" into the track they like to be in!
I have an S2R800, should I be using this sonic method or the allen key method?
Jake, thanks for writing. The process is similar.
so is the reason for marking the belts that, when removing them, the pulleys could change position, hence disrupting the timing..but if you mark them, you'll be able to determine the number of teeth that should be between the two "pulley markers" and effectively restore the appropriate timing?
Valeu tirou minha dúvida apesar de não estar no meu idioma consegui enter. Falando daqui do Brasil👍👍
great videos. can you make one on how to get more power out of an m750 2002? thank you
Thanks for your vids. I just have a question. Should the crankshaft and flywheel be aligned before all this procedure. I mean, the piston should be at all way up before the intake valve startes to work? Or do we just get worried about these marks you made and there is no difference where piston and valves are once the motor is already working sycronised?
Monster 695 mine
Excellent video. I wonder one thing: Do you have to have a microphone? Is there no other way to check this? In the 750-900 SS engine can use an Allen trick? It does not work on the 1000 DS engine?
@Erin Randi to prevent shearing the tabs on the tool
Hi, thank you for making this video. The upper vertical cam moved when I removed the old belt. Im pretty sure it rotated clockwise. I move it counterclockwise with the timing mark on the cam and case lining up (just like before). Is it relevant that the cam moved clockwise/counterclockwise as long the timing marks lines back up? The reason why I ask is after I installed the belts, my ‘05 Monster S2R wont fire up. It cranks (I hear gas pumping, I can smell gas getting dumped into the exhaust) and very faint rumbles from the engine/exhaust. Any idea what is happening? Thanks in advance.
It doesn't matter if the cam moves as long as the cam is in the correct position when the belt in installed. This is why we recommend painting the sprockets and the belts before the old ones are removed. The engine not starting is unrelated to the belts. You'll need to make sure there is spark happening. -Krista
How much tension should one put on those pulleys? just hand tight? or how tight? also how many miles on a monster till it should be replaced?
Thanks for the video. I'm trying to understand why old belts need to be marked but it's simply flying over my head. Why would you have to match an old belt to a new one based on a marking on the old, since the entire belt is uniform throughout? Aside from matching up the natural bend of the belt with a cam pulley, I don't understand what the purpose is of marking an old belt and transferring that mark to the new one. Could you please explain this to me? Thanks in advance.
You can apply marks to the new belts with the same number of teeth between them which helps confirm timing. It adds redundancy to the marks on the sprockets lining up to the engine.
is this the steps i need to change belts on my 07 1098?
Can't you cut the old belts in half along the lenght and just tuck the new ones? It's a lot faster
I see small holes! Is not for the fixation?
Thank you for your interest in our how to videos. We apologize for not posting your comments right away, but UA-cam comments are on the back burner while we get through the summer time rush at our shop
In the future, if you have questions regarding our videos please email us
What are the difference between this engine and a regular 900? It looks pretty similar, so im guessing the procedure would be as well?
For the 900, look for our 2v belt tension video. You can use this sonic method or the 5mm allen method (explained in our other video)
Honestly, I recommend against trying that on the previous generation two valve engines. Got get a 796 engine. But the 796 is a better chassis... so... go get a 796?
How long do the belts last when still in the factory bag? Asking because I have a pair that I got from you a looong time ago
If they're in plastic and not exposed to the sun, shelf life is indefinite. BesTorq in Nebraska is the manufacturer/importer and they keep a sample belt from each run sealed in plastic and check the rubber every year. They're still fresh. 👍
Hey Chris - great video! One question, why do you have to remove the spark plugs? Is it a preventive measure?
You cannot move the engine to the correct rotation for the belt change against the engine compression. You need to remove the sparkplugs so there is no compression in the cylinders
Thanks
how often do these belts need to be changed on this engine? after how many miles/kms?
+Rudy Falcomer Same interval Ducati says which is 2 years or 12,000 miles
I don't know why Ducati don't put a hole in the pulley through to the head and crankcase for pegs to go through locking them in position especially helpful on the rear cylinder where the cam can turn. Making it completely foolproof.
I love the sarcasm. :D We ended up making the cam locking tool for this. CLT2V. Thanks - Chris
can you make a vid on the same with a 803 scrambler please ?
I haven't even seen a Scrambler. Procedure it identical to 1000 engine though.
I meant.. WHERE DO YOU SHOW HOW TO TENSION THEM CORRECTLY AS DESCRIBED IN THE TITLE.??!!
Part 2?
Good instructional video, but we never saw you use the special tool you said we needed to perform the old belt removal and new belt installation. Your editing made me feel like I missed something
Hi Scott, when we shot the video, we hadn't really been made aware of the cam locking tools. That was before we were machining down bolts and selling those. The tool from Ducati was $30 last time I checked. Sorry, Krista
Bon❤
Hey Chris, indeed help finding an oil leak on my duc monster 800 S. It slightly leaks underneath the timing belt cover, any idea as to where it might be?
Could be the seal behind the shaft driving the belts. I've changed it once. Get the special tool for the castle nut, a new nut, remove the sprockets. Then I used a wood screw and a slide hammer to remove the seal. Put plastic bag over the sharp areas on the shaft and press in a new seal.
Thanks man I'll look into it
@@CaCycleworks me again. So I looked into the diagram and I can't seem to find any "lay shaft seal" or any seal at all, would it happen to be the entire layshaft?
@@xavierbanda798 on PDF page 29 of the parts catalog titled "Drawing 010", I believe it is item #16: 93785.1830 "Seal ring" You might want to befriend someone who has some experience with Ducatis to help you with all this??
Of course there's a local shop, i just want to figure out a general budget
Is (DIY) Ducati servicing comparable to for e.g. Honda servicing? I've recently fallen in love with Ducati bikes after my boss showed me his collection (999, 848, 748, two Hypermotards and a Desmosedici. Anyway,) but I didn't buy a Duc before due to the potential need of expensive special tools. Is it just as easy for basic servicing (chain, clutch, belts, brakes etc.)?
Great video!
how about this " make sure the dots on the pully stay alined with the case markings" i still dont see the logic in counting the teeth on the belt. Also, keeping the bike in gear would solve that problem. thanks for posting.
When timing belt is off the sprockets, bike in gear isn't attached to the cam any more. We make a tool to use the cam locking feature in the other side of the heads. CLT2V
I'm in the same boat as you, not understanding the reason for marking old belts and transferring markings onto new belts, if you are aligned with the pulley/case markings and in TDC. Just trying to learn here, as it will be my first time changing belts. I posted above your comment.
here do you show how to tension them correctly???
There is a part 2...checkout our playlist section ua-cam.com/play/PL8C2B481CCCF64690.html
top top
I understand, of course you put the crankshaft pulley on his mark on the block and the both camshaft pulley's too ( there is a mark on the cyl.heads too ). If all the marks are in place , why you mark the belts too ? That is not necessary, I guess ....
The belts should just come with the matching lines printed on the belt. No?
I didn't think of that! I do worry, however, some engine flavors might change up the process or the parts. But I like having the technician engaged in the process and by making their own marks, helps prevent errors.
And you never did explain the tension ... pre load on the belt. I believe its 45 degrees twist. cheers. seems I gotta find pt2.
No, not twist method. And never has been for Ducati. Use a microphone and shoot for 110 Hz.
Sorry for the delay in response. We mark the belts because the cam can move even the slightest bit and therefore the dots on the cam may not be lined up once the belt is on. The markings insure it goes on right and is a fail safe. We have heard of customers bending their valves from being one tooth off after changing their timing belts and that is why we implemented the belt marking task.
Thank you
cam locks solve that problem
The belts are made by Gates and the red Ducati logo gets printed on them so they become 40-50 quid more expensive!!
I was pulling my hair out at the slowness of this vid, just transfer the marks to the new belt, done, simple, doesn't need 3 minutes explaining.
Go to fridge and gran another beer?
+10 Linux
there is no need to count just top dead center 2008 hyper 1100s all 3 marks line up remove the belts front first then rear nothing turns nothing moves....
Yes. There's also no need to use the cam lock tool. The point is to minimize the chance for error. Not everyone is as good as you are. Not even me - I've bent valves before.
Absolutely nonsense counting the teeth on the belts, just line the marks up
Hi Ralph, we all strive to be your level of perfection. 👍 The point of the the counting and transferring of dots is another level of double checking one's own work. Having bent valves because a sprocket was 1 tooth off, I consider the nonsense worth the effort and derision of perfect people.
You are making a very easy job look hard,