Successfully pulled engine and gearbox thanks to this video! The most complicated things I’ve done before this was to swap out an alternator, and following your video made it seem easy.
David, just wanted to drop you a note and thank you again for your videos. My son and followed step by step and didn't have a single problem. We have a projector hooked up to a computer and a large pull down screen in the shop. You are almost life size! HA We are now giving the gearbox a little TLC and about to replace the clutch. Great videos..you make our project possible.
Many thanks for your message Jim, it's great to hear that the videos are useful. Delighted that you and your son were able to remove the engine using my guide!
In my car it is probably simper than a road car, there's no heater to disconnect or speedometer cable for the gearbox. The engine also comes out regularly so no seized bolts!
By a country mile, this is the best video i have ever seen. The way you calmly narrate everything you are doing fills me with great confidence for when my son and i remove the engine and gearbox from our mgb roadster. We have treated ourselves to some AF sockets and spanners, and will hire a hoist at a weekend rate Friday afternoon to Monday morning so we have no stress if we get a few rusty bolts that refuse to come out. Thank you once again for a superb video, i am now going to watch you put it back in on the next video.
Many thanks Steve, it sounds as though you are all set. If you are using the same method as I do you can remove the radiator and shroud, oil cooler hoses, alternator, starter motor, carburettors, exhaust etc before you need the engine hoist. The exhaust bolts are probably the ones most likely to be hard to remove, the rest should be straightforward, but access is tight on the gearbox mounts.
Yes, you have a number of custom changes, including the Weber carb, electric radiator fan, etc. I find that I can't remove the radiator shroud and radiator together: I have to separate them. Also, I don't undo the oil cooler hoses: I find it easier to remove the oil cooler with the shroud. As I have a left-hand drive, I don't need to touch the steering shaft. My engine hoist came with a very useful tilt adjuster, that allows you to vary the tilt of the engine as you coax it out. I highly recommend it! Very useful video, and sure to relieve some "first-time anxiety" for those considering extracting their engine / transmission the first time! It does take some work, but it's very doable by one person.
Many thanks for your kind message Phillipe, the radiator and shroud together can be a tight fit, I think on the MGB GT I had previously it was hard to take the two out together. I also had the same conversation with a friend who takes the oil cooler and hoses out together rather than separating. Keeping them together should avoid any spills or damage to the fittings. Delighted to hear that you enjoyed the video!
Where was this video 50 years ago when I had to remove engine and gearbox of my 1963 MGB by myself because of no funds to take it to a mechenic? Very very good. Enjoyed watching it. Brings back memories. Thank you......
Having a second midlife crisis at 58 I’ve just bought a 1967 MGB GT ( rust bucket) first time in my life I took an engine from a car, followed your step by step instructions, bit more problematic on mine 🤣, but got it out in a day. Thank you now looking forward to your other videos.
I'm having mine at 75! Bought an LE that apparently needs a clutch, along with every part that would deteriorate after almost a decade of being parked. Faced with engine removal, I've got to buy a hoist and possibly a stand to accomplish repairs. I hope I live long enough to drive this thing again. Good luck to you, Steve from PA
This is just amazing stuff. You make everything looks so easy! Whenever I speak to anyone about this kind of thing, I always get "Oh well...that's an engine out job so you're looking at £1K+" and with the exception of an engine hoist (which I imagine aren't cheap) you make it look all fairly straightforward. Your videos are incredibly inspiring. Demystifying the fear.
I think I was very lucky to have people watching over me the first time I did most of the jobs and that's a great confidence booster. These cars are generally straightforward but as I said in the other comments stuck and rusty fasteners can really ruin your day! Luckily I am able to borrow the engine crane when I need it, it's the sort of part that costs a fair bit and takes up a lot of room. Not ideal for a home mechanic but I guess they can always be hired, or better yet bought with a few friends and shared.
We had one of these come in today with a bad gearbox and it’s at the shop. I was thinking about turning the job down but after seeing the video... why not, let’s do it. Thank you for the upload man
Many thanks Chris, these cars are generally very easy to work on, however things like rusted bolts can make a 10 minute job turn into a 2 hour one! I made a video covering the refit too (I don't rebuild the gearboxes myself though.) ua-cam.com/video/HIQC7MBNnF4/v-deo.html
David Russell-Wilks thank you good sir. I am in Las Vegas Nevada and this car is showroom condition. Good and bad for me. Really have to be careful not to ding or scratch. But, all the fasteners are newer and clean enough to eat off of. This customer keeps his cars flawless.
Just removed my engine. This video was super helpful! I pretty much had it on repeat when I was in the garage. Hope it goes back in as easily after the rebuild... Cheers
Many thanks for your message Thomas, I'm delighted to hear that the video was useful to you. I'm hoping to fit the engine back into my car next weekend with any luck and hopefully I'll be able to make a video covering that too. Hope all goes well with the rebuild on yours. In terms of the engine spec on mine it's an 1852cc with steel crank and caps. 720sp cam, Weber 48 and race cylinder head. It makes around 160Bhp at the wheels There is a good website here covering many of the build details, but the engine has changed since the article was written.
@@davidrussellwilksWow 160bhp at the wheels is impressive from an under square, 8 valve, 1800. Is that the FIA Spec for the B Roadster. (I subscribed btw).
@@davidrussellwilksBringing a 1965 25 yr barn-find B back to life. Been working on/restoring cars and motorcycles all my life, but this is a big project, and my first B. Youre excellent video inspired me to pop the engine out today. Went smooth as a babys bottom. Owe you a pint next time Im on that side of the pond. Til then, Cheers.
David, I think you do an amazing job. I am about to replace the clutch and my helpers, son and my wife have both watched your videos about engine removal. Both my wife and I noticed you have a very clever air intake that doesn't modify the grill. Can you show a few more picture of that and where the various parts can be found or how you made them. Once again..love all the videos, you are so calm, so collected....it is a huge confidence builder for guys like me.
Many thanks for your very kind message Jim, in the engine refit video I give a few more details about the air intake :ua-cam.com/video/HIQC7MBNnF4/v-deo.html 1:29:53 (Details of the cold air intake duct). It was custom made but is simple. Let me know if you need any further details
Good instructional vid David. Done mine a coupe of times but pulled engine only. First time got front of car too high for crane but only realised when it was part way out. But thinking of pulling it once more for a gearbox refurb. I have a factory auto and have wondered if the BW35 box is heavier/bulkier than the manual. But I have a question. Would you have enough side clearance if you left the manifolds on?
Many thanks for your message Graham, in the past I've removed the engine a few times without the gearbox, now I always pull the two together, I just found the sometimes it was really hard to get the two sides to line up again in the car, time wise there's very little in it I'm sure. I have removed it with the manifold in place when I had a Maniflow system, I think with a standard exhaust manifold it would be possible but certainly tight, I think it you removed the fittings to the exhaust and body at the front you would have a fighting chance. I've never dealt with an Auto box, but they do look a but wider than the standard one. Mine is a 4 synchro non-overdrive so would probably be lighter, but I imagine it's a similar weight to an overdrive box?
If you try, I hope it all goes well, the only specialist tool you'll need is the crane. I'd set a whole weekend aside to remove the engine and gearbox if it's the first time you've tried. Many thanks for subscribing to my channel too!
My first thought also, as commented below ----- No fender covers --- and you explained. Your Engine Strap must be Set / Made for that angle to pull engine and trans out? When I got out of the Military took a Machinist Trade - Made my Engine Hoist and Engine Stand , and an engine tilter that you use a socket on a nut ( either end ) to tilt the engine in getting her out. I really like the idea of taking parts out / off as subassemblies --- grouping things together ---- makes it real simple and easy ------------------ Thank You for Sharing - very helpful!
Thanks for your message, if it's your first time doing it and the engine has not been out in a while I would leave a full weekend available to do it. Once you've done it a few times I think it's around 5 hours start to finish (not rushing).
Very informative! If I may ask, why did you have to pull the engine in the first place? What's the typical service life of a competitively tuned B series on track?
Many thanks for your kind comment Brodie, I never even thought to mention this! I was actually pulling the engine to get the gearbox out. The selector or the synchro ring for 2nd seems to be playing up and I wanted JP Raceshop at Silverstone to look at it. The engine tends to last for around 2 seasons between refreshes (around 40 hours running) time.
David great car and great description. Two questions - what fitting have you used for the breather pipe in the rocker cover and how is the fresh air hose fixed behind the grille ? What type/pipe diameter have you used ? I am about to put a more powerful engine in our B and also intend to make those mods.
Many thanks for your message Ralf, the breather pipe for the rocker cover attaches to a brass elbow type fitting, from memory I think it was a 3/8 BSP, but the rocker cover was a special one from HRG that already had a threaded hole for the fitting. Once could easily modify the rocker cover with a weld one JIC fitting or similar. The box it feeds towards the rear of the engine is vented through the cap. For the air inlet hose there is an inlet trumpet that sits on the end; I then zip tie the whole assembly to the grille support. It's very basic but works surprisingly well. I can't remember the hose size off hand but will check for you tomorrow, it was readily available and I had the tube in the radiator diaphragm welded in to suit.
David Russell-Wilks David - thank you very much for the quick reply. This is very helpful - there are nice breather rocker covers available for Minis, but MGB does need some modifiyng obviously. No problem ! The welded tube is also a good concept !
@@RalfPickel Hi Ralf the hose I used is 100mm internal diameter, I don't remember the manufacturer but it's the generic motorsport ducting type, example here www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/automotive-plumbing-solutions-single-layer-ducting-hose-402659/ The bell mouth/ trumpet end part is also 100mm something like this www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/revotec-high-flow-aluminium-air-inlet-243530/ I think all my parts came from eBay though. I hope to make a video when I put the engine back in, I'll add some details of the custom parts for you.
@@davidrussellwilks Perfect - thank you !! Now I can go shopping online.. :-) Our new engine should be finished soon, so it is nice to have everything together beforehand.
@@davidrussellwilks Hi David - finally the new engine and gearbox is back in - and, of course - the fresh air hose setup. Thanks to you it was easy to source the parts and fabricate that. I would post a photo, but I guess this is not possible here.
Thanks for the video. I'll be using this info tomorrow all going well. I cannot fathom though, even after watching your video how it's easier to remove the engine and box as one assembly. Surely if you left the box in place you could pull the engine off the bellhousing and lift it straight up, no?
I think it's possibly easier to remove the engine separately to the gearbox but I have found it can be difficult to get the two parts to join together again when reinstalling. Also in my car the starter motor is quite hard to remove, but if I leave the engine and gearbox together it comes out with them.
@@davidrussellwilks thanks David. I have a lot of my engine stripped as it is. There's literally just the short block without the pistons left in the car but the bolts holding the gearbox cross member will certainly put up a fight on my car. I'll do a video myself if you're interested of me ham-fisting my engine out! 👍
Thanks for your message, I've just seen the work your doing on your car, and subscribed, would be delighted to see the video. The gearbox mounts can certainly be a pain, especially if they've not been undone in a long time. You may need to support the gearbox once the engine is out, from memory it can pull on the clutch hose.
@@davidrussellwilks thanks for the info. I have the clutch pipe removed but I'll prop the gearbox up anyway. I'll be removing it too, but at a later stage. I might see if the bolts come out easily. I'll see how I feel at the time! Thanks for subscribing! 😁👍
Hi David - Great video and very clear - need to attempt the same on mine soon. Would you mind replying with the capacity of the engine crane you are using? Many thanks.
The crane is a 1000kg one, I tend to use the mast a little way out to clear the front of the car, capacity there is 500kgs. I think the whole engine and gearbox (with fluids) weighs around 250kg or possibly a bit less.
Thanks for your message, the overalls are just plain white ones from eBay, the brand is SuperTouch. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Supertouch-Polycotton-Coverall-Basic-Mens-Overalls-Boiler-Suit-Work-Wear-New/332244663294?var=541255959397&hash=item4d5b533bfe:g:IgoAAOSwUKxYic~p A friend bought me the MGB patch and I sewed it on.
David, do you have a video of replacing the clutch plate and the gear box rebuild? Also your thoughts on going to an aluminum flywheel? I have an 1967 MGB w/ overdrive.
Many thanks for your message Scott, I do have (part) of a video covering the clutch plate, it's the second section of this video from 9:32 ua-cam.com/video/HIQC7MBNnF4/v-deo.html Unfortunately I've never carried out a gearbox rebuild; this is something I take to a professional to be done for me. The aluminium flywheel is an interesting one, we have to use a steel flywheel in our cars; class regs. I use the TTV one, it really is beautifully made ttvracing.com/product/mg-b-4-sync-lite/?referrer=product-listing&=true&width=80%&height=100%&type=flywheels&engine=mgb-4-sync&manufacturer=mg After 10 years it's still going strong, the race starts have made it go blue in places though. I have heard of aluminium flywheels failing and I think for a road car there wouldn't be a great benefit, I imagine you'd have the rev the car a bit hard to pull away? In fairness though I've never used one. What benefits were you hoping to find with it?
Many thanks for your kind message John, there is a walk-around video of the car here ua-cam.com/video/gplffmow_9g/v-deo.html and this website has some great details and photos of the car, the article is from 2014 and the car has changed a bit since then. www.britishracecar.com/DavidRussellWilks-MG-MGB.htm
Thanks for your message, the car is built on a heritage shell, the donor car was a 1965. My car does have the narrow tunnel and correct doors for a 1965 car, but I use an alternator set up rather than dynamo (most UK racers do). On the papers it is registered as a 1965
Great Video! I'm actually looking to buy an MGB soon and always do my research on stuff like this for you know... just in case haha. I Wish someone made a video like this for My 68 Sonett...
Are you ever planning on doing videos on autobody? I know it's prob not what you like to do, but just basic stuff. I know you have some experience with high end bodyshops.
Thanks for your message Jerry, unfortunately I don't have any equipment for bodywork at home. I just go and see the guys at Lone Pine Garage lonepinegarage.com/ if anything needs fixing. If I do get the chance to record a video I will do.
Oh my god, David! How on earth can you pull the engine without any protection on the wings? Perhaps vou have the nicest restored MGB in historic racing. The effort that must have gone into bringing it to this state must be enormous. That definitely is not a 500 £ paint job! Sorry, but how on earth can you risk to damage it? It´s such a lovely car! Send me your address, and I´ll send you some wing protectors! Regards Danny
Many thanks for your message Danny, I do have a pair of wing protectors but in all honesty I don't really get on with them. You are quite correct that the paint finish is to a high standard. However I am always concerned about getting small particles of dirt or grit under the protectors and marking the paint. I tend not to put anything on the wings and then just make sure that I am careful, it also stops me resting tools or anything on them. I do put a cloth over the front apron just in case the sump brushes it when I am lifting the engine out. If I have any tubes or cables draped over the wings; draining the fuel, setting the timing etc I do put a soft cloth under them to stop them marking the paint. When the car is polished just rubbing it with your finger will show on the surface of the paint, but I've had more damage from stone chips than from tools
Thanks for your comment; in fairness the engine and gearbox removal procedure is similar regardless of the year. The rubber bumper cars have different engine mount and the front diaphragm around the radiator is different but the same techniques will work, is there a step that you are having trouble with?
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Really fantastic video. The pacing was excellent with clear shots and explanations. Thanks!
Many thanks Alistair, I'm part-way through fitting the engine back in at the moment, hopefully the video will be ready in a few weeks time.
Really appreciate your straightforward approach - no hype, no extreme explanations, and no loud music soundtrack. Thank you! Well done!
Successfully pulled engine and gearbox thanks to this video! The most complicated things I’ve done before this was to swap out an alternator, and following your video made it seem easy.
Excellent news, delighted to hear that the video helped!
David, just wanted to drop you a note and thank you again for your videos. My son and followed step by step and didn't have a single problem. We have a projector hooked up to a computer and a large pull down screen in the shop. You are almost life size! HA We are now giving the gearbox a little TLC and about to replace the clutch. Great videos..you make our project possible.
Many thanks for your message Jim, it's great to hear that the videos are useful. Delighted that you and your son were able to remove the engine using my guide!
As a complete novice, I was able to successfully extract my drivetrain from my ‘68 MGB thanks to this wonderful video. Thank you David!
Many thanks for this message Brian, it's really great to hear that the videos I make have been useful.
It’s amazing that there isn’t too much involved into doing such a removal when documented so well. Thanks David for such a great video.
In my car it is probably simper than a road car, there's no heater to disconnect or speedometer cable for the gearbox. The engine also comes out regularly so no seized bolts!
By a country mile, this is the best video i have ever seen. The way you calmly narrate everything you are doing fills me with great confidence for when my son and i remove the engine and gearbox from our mgb roadster. We have treated ourselves to some AF sockets and spanners, and will hire a hoist at a weekend rate Friday afternoon to Monday morning so we have no stress if we get a few rusty bolts that refuse to come out. Thank you once again for a superb video, i am now going to watch you put it back in on the next video.
Many thanks Steve, it sounds as though you are all set. If you are using the same method as I do you can remove the radiator and shroud, oil cooler hoses, alternator, starter motor, carburettors, exhaust etc before you need the engine hoist. The exhaust bolts are probably the ones most likely to be hard to remove, the rest should be straightforward, but access is tight on the gearbox mounts.
Yes, you have a number of custom changes, including the Weber carb, electric radiator fan, etc. I find that I can't remove the radiator shroud and radiator together: I have to separate them. Also, I don't undo the oil cooler hoses: I find it easier to remove the oil cooler with the shroud. As I have a left-hand drive, I don't need to touch the steering shaft. My engine hoist came with a very useful tilt adjuster, that allows you to vary the tilt of the engine as you coax it out. I highly recommend it!
Very useful video, and sure to relieve some "first-time anxiety" for those considering extracting their engine / transmission the first time! It does take some work, but it's very doable by one person.
Many thanks for your kind message Phillipe, the radiator and shroud together can be a tight fit, I think on the MGB GT I had previously it was hard to take the two out together. I also had the same conversation with a friend who takes the oil cooler and hoses out together rather than separating. Keeping them together should avoid any spills or damage to the fittings.
Delighted to hear that you enjoyed the video!
Where was this video 50 years ago when I had to remove engine and gearbox of my 1963 MGB by myself because of no funds to take it to a mechenic?
Very very good. Enjoyed watching it. Brings back memories. Thank you......
50 years ago I was a twinkle in my daddy's eye! Delighted to hear you enjoyed the video.
Having a second midlife crisis at 58 I’ve just bought a 1967 MGB GT ( rust bucket) first time in my life I took an engine from a car, followed your step by step instructions, bit more problematic on mine 🤣, but got it out in a day. Thank you now looking forward to your other videos.
Many thanks Mike
I'm having mine at 75! Bought an LE that apparently needs a clutch, along with every part that would deteriorate after almost a decade of being parked. Faced with engine removal, I've got to buy a hoist and possibly a stand to accomplish repairs. I hope I live long enough to drive this thing again. Good luck to you, Steve from PA
I'm very jealous of how clean and well put together your car is, a lot of work must have gone into that. Thanks for all of the great videos
Many thanks for your kind comments, thanks for watching!
This is just amazing stuff. You make everything looks so easy! Whenever I speak to anyone about this kind of thing, I always get "Oh well...that's an engine out job so you're looking at £1K+" and with the exception of an engine hoist (which I imagine aren't cheap) you make it look all fairly straightforward. Your videos are incredibly inspiring. Demystifying the fear.
I think I was very lucky to have people watching over me the first time I did most of the jobs and that's a great confidence booster. These cars are generally straightforward but as I said in the other comments stuck and rusty fasteners can really ruin your day!
Luckily I am able to borrow the engine crane when I need it, it's the sort of part that costs a fair bit and takes up a lot of room. Not ideal for a home mechanic but I guess they can always be hired, or better yet bought with a few friends and shared.
Engine cranes aren't nearly as expensive as you'd think! I bought one for I think €180 and it's decent enough for an ambitious home mechanic.
I have performed this myself on an MGA and MGB. But not this well! Well done!
We had one of these come in today with a bad gearbox and it’s at the shop. I was thinking about turning the job down but after seeing the video... why not, let’s do it. Thank you for the upload man
Many thanks Chris, these cars are generally very easy to work on, however things like rusted bolts can make a 10 minute job turn into a 2 hour one! I made a video covering the refit too (I don't rebuild the gearboxes myself though.) ua-cam.com/video/HIQC7MBNnF4/v-deo.html
David Russell-Wilks thank you good sir. I am in Las Vegas Nevada and this car is showroom condition. Good and bad for me. Really have to be careful not to ding or scratch. But, all the fasteners are newer and clean enough to eat off of. This customer keeps his cars flawless.
Thanks for posting. I thoroughly enjoyed that.
Glad you enjoyed it
Just removed my engine. This video was super helpful! I pretty much had it on repeat when I was in the garage. Hope it goes back in as easily after the rebuild... Cheers
Ps your car is immaculate. And fast too! What's the engine spec?
Many thanks for your message Thomas, I'm delighted to hear that the video was useful to you. I'm hoping to fit the engine back into my car next weekend with any luck and hopefully I'll be able to make a video covering that too.
Hope all goes well with the rebuild on yours. In terms of the engine spec on mine it's an 1852cc with steel crank and caps. 720sp cam, Weber 48 and race cylinder head. It makes around 160Bhp at the wheels
There is a good website here covering many of the build details, but the engine has changed since the article was written.
@@davidrussellwilks Yes it would be great to see the process in reverse order! Spec sounds similar to what I'm going for - minus the Weber. Fun times
@@davidrussellwilksWow 160bhp at the wheels is impressive from an under square, 8 valve, 1800. Is that the FIA Spec for the B Roadster. (I subscribed btw).
Excellent well illustrated and walked through 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Great stuff, David. Many thanks!!
Glad you liked it!
@@davidrussellwilksBringing a 1965 25 yr barn-find B back to life. Been working on/restoring cars and motorcycles all my life, but this is a big project, and my first B. Youre excellent video inspired me to pop the engine out today. Went smooth as a babys bottom. Owe you a pint next time Im on that side of the pond. Til then, Cheers.
David, I think you do an amazing job. I am about to replace the clutch and my helpers, son and my wife have both watched your videos about engine removal. Both my wife and I noticed you have a very clever air intake that doesn't modify the grill. Can you show a few more picture of that and where the various parts can be found or how you made them. Once again..love all the videos, you are so calm, so collected....it is a huge confidence builder for guys like me.
Many thanks for your very kind message Jim, in the engine refit video I give a few more details about the air intake :ua-cam.com/video/HIQC7MBNnF4/v-deo.html 1:29:53 (Details of the cold air intake duct). It was custom made but is simple.
Let me know if you need any further details
Good instructional vid David. Done mine a coupe of times but pulled engine only. First time got front of car too high for crane but only realised when it was part way out. But thinking of pulling it once more for a gearbox refurb. I have a factory auto and have wondered if the BW35 box is heavier/bulkier than the manual.
But I have a question. Would you have enough side clearance if you left the manifolds on?
Many thanks for your message Graham, in the past I've removed the engine a few times without the gearbox, now I always pull the two together, I just found the sometimes it was really hard to get the two sides to line up again in the car, time wise there's very little in it I'm sure. I have removed it with the manifold in place when I had a Maniflow system, I think with a standard exhaust manifold it would be possible but certainly tight, I think it you removed the fittings to the exhaust and body at the front you would have a fighting chance. I've never dealt with an Auto box, but they do look a but wider than the standard one. Mine is a 4 synchro non-overdrive so would probably be lighter, but I imagine it's a similar weight to an overdrive box?
Super video David. i feel like I MIGHT actually be able to do this ...
If you try, I hope it all goes well, the only specialist tool you'll need is the crane. I'd set a whole weekend aside to remove the engine and gearbox if it's the first time you've tried.
Many thanks for subscribing to my channel too!
My first thought also, as commented below ----- No fender covers --- and you explained. Your Engine Strap must be Set / Made for that angle to pull engine and trans out? When I got out of the Military took a Machinist Trade - Made my Engine Hoist and Engine Stand , and an engine tilter that you use a socket on a nut ( either end ) to tilt the engine in getting her out.
I really like the idea of taking parts out / off as subassemblies --- grouping things together ---- makes it real simple and easy ------------------ Thank You for Sharing - very helpful!
Thank you for your videos. They are a great help
Many thanks Nathan, delighted to hear you find them useful!
Well done video! I just bought a '71 MGB roadster so this will help me get up to speed. Much obliged.
Many thanks Paul, glad you enjoyed it.
Great job, helped me a lot! Dropping a Ford 289 in there
Glad it helped!
Good job, explaining the process, thanks
Many thanks for your kind message, delighted that you found the video useful.
Great video, needed to see this - engine swap looming - any estimate of time involved?
Thanks for your message, if it's your first time doing it and the engine has not been out in a while I would leave a full weekend available to do it. Once you've done it a few times I think it's around 5 hours start to finish (not rushing).
Very informative!
If I may ask, why did you have to pull the engine in the first place? What's the typical service life of a competitively tuned B series on track?
Many thanks for your kind comment Brodie, I never even thought to mention this! I was actually pulling the engine to get the gearbox out. The selector or the synchro ring for 2nd seems to be playing up and I wanted JP Raceshop at Silverstone to look at it.
The engine tends to last for around 2 seasons between refreshes (around 40 hours running) time.
David great car and great description.
Two questions - what fitting have you used for the breather pipe in the rocker cover and how is the fresh air hose fixed behind the grille ? What type/pipe diameter have you used ?
I am about to put a more powerful engine in our B and also intend to make those mods.
Many thanks for your message Ralf, the breather pipe for the rocker cover attaches to a brass elbow type fitting, from memory I think it was a 3/8 BSP, but the rocker cover was a special one from HRG that already had a threaded hole for the fitting. Once could easily modify the rocker cover with a weld one JIC fitting or similar. The box it feeds towards the rear of the engine is vented through the cap. For the air inlet hose there is an inlet trumpet that sits on the end; I then zip tie the whole assembly to the grille support. It's very basic but works surprisingly well. I can't remember the hose size off hand but will check for you tomorrow, it was readily available and I had the tube in the radiator diaphragm welded in to suit.
David Russell-Wilks David - thank you very much for the quick reply.
This is very helpful - there are nice breather rocker covers available for Minis, but MGB does need some modifiyng obviously. No problem ! The welded tube is also a good concept !
@@RalfPickel Hi Ralf the hose I used is 100mm internal diameter, I don't remember the manufacturer but it's the generic motorsport ducting type, example here www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/automotive-plumbing-solutions-single-layer-ducting-hose-402659/
The bell mouth/ trumpet end part is also 100mm something like this www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/revotec-high-flow-aluminium-air-inlet-243530/
I think all my parts came from eBay though.
I hope to make a video when I put the engine back in, I'll add some details of the custom parts for you.
@@davidrussellwilks Perfect - thank you !! Now I can go shopping online.. :-) Our new engine should be finished soon, so it is nice to have everything together beforehand.
@@davidrussellwilks Hi David - finally the new engine and gearbox is back in - and, of course - the fresh air hose setup. Thanks to you it was easy to source the parts and fabricate that. I would post a photo, but I guess this is not possible here.
Thanks for the video. I'll be using this info tomorrow all going well. I cannot fathom though, even after watching your video how it's easier to remove the engine and box as one assembly. Surely if you left the box in place you could pull the engine off the bellhousing and lift it straight up, no?
I think it's possibly easier to remove the engine separately to the gearbox but I have found it can be difficult to get the two parts to join together again when reinstalling. Also in my car the starter motor is quite hard to remove, but if I leave the engine and gearbox together it comes out with them.
@@davidrussellwilks thanks David. I have a lot of my engine stripped as it is. There's literally just the short block without the pistons left in the car but the bolts holding the gearbox cross member will certainly put up a fight on my car. I'll do a video myself if you're interested of me ham-fisting my engine out! 👍
Thanks for your message, I've just seen the work your doing on your car, and subscribed, would be delighted to see the video. The gearbox mounts can certainly be a pain, especially if they've not been undone in a long time. You may need to support the gearbox once the engine is out, from memory it can pull on the clutch hose.
@@davidrussellwilks thanks for the info. I have the clutch pipe removed but I'll prop the gearbox up anyway. I'll be removing it too, but at a later stage. I might see if the bolts come out easily. I'll see how I feel at the time! Thanks for subscribing! 😁👍
Very helpful...thank you!
Hi David - Great video and very clear - need to attempt the same on mine soon. Would you mind replying with the capacity of the engine crane you are using? Many thanks.
The crane is a 1000kg one, I tend to use the mast a little way out to clear the front of the car, capacity there is 500kgs. I think the whole engine and gearbox (with fluids) weighs around 250kg or possibly a bit less.
Thanks David - that’s good to know before I invest in one myself - much appreciated.
Where’d you get the overalls?
Thanks for your message, the overalls are just plain white ones from eBay, the brand is SuperTouch. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Supertouch-Polycotton-Coverall-Basic-Mens-Overalls-Boiler-Suit-Work-Wear-New/332244663294?var=541255959397&hash=item4d5b533bfe:g:IgoAAOSwUKxYic~p
A friend bought me the MGB patch and I sewed it on.
David, do you have a video of replacing the clutch plate and the gear box rebuild? Also your thoughts on going to an aluminum flywheel? I have an 1967 MGB w/ overdrive.
Many thanks for your message Scott, I do have (part) of a video covering the clutch plate, it's the second section of this video from 9:32 ua-cam.com/video/HIQC7MBNnF4/v-deo.html
Unfortunately I've never carried out a gearbox rebuild; this is something I take to a professional to be done for me.
The aluminium flywheel is an interesting one, we have to use a steel flywheel in our cars; class regs. I use the TTV one, it really is beautifully made ttvracing.com/product/mg-b-4-sync-lite/?referrer=product-listing&=true&width=80%&height=100%&type=flywheels&engine=mgb-4-sync&manufacturer=mg After 10 years it's still going strong, the race starts have made it go blue in places though.
I have heard of aluminium flywheels failing and I think for a road car there wouldn't be a great benefit, I imagine you'd have the rev the car a bit hard to pull away? In fairness though I've never used one. What benefits were you hoping to find with it?
WOW...!!! What a beautiful B. That's about the nicest MGB I've ever seen. Do you have specs on 'er...??
Fantastic video, thank you.
Many thanks for your kind message John, there is a walk-around video of the car here ua-cam.com/video/gplffmow_9g/v-deo.html and this website has some great details and photos of the car, the article is from 2014 and the car has changed a bit since then. www.britishracecar.com/DavidRussellWilks-MG-MGB.htm
@@davidrussellwilks Thank you, David.
What year is your car? 1968 negative ground? Awesome looking car!
Thanks for your message, the car is built on a heritage shell, the donor car was a 1965. My car does have the narrow tunnel and correct doors for a 1965 car, but I use an alternator set up rather than dynamo (most UK racers do). On the papers it is registered as a 1965
You are a wonder! Wish I could be as careful as you David. Im going to try"less bull at a gate" stuff
Many thanks Ian, there have been plenty of times I've wished I'd taken a more cautious approach!
Great Video! I'm actually looking to buy an MGB soon and always do my research on stuff like this for you know... just in case haha. I Wish someone made a video like this for My 68 Sonett...
Many thanks for your message, delighted to hear you enjoyed the video.
Hi David, great videos of work on your car m, just wondering is your gearbox 3 or 4 synchromesh thanks
Great video, wish it was an MGC though as I have to take my engine out. But the basics will be the same just bigger and heavier.
Dave is that a Fidenza flywheel? Its too bad we cant give more than 1 thumbs up😢
Many thanks Michael,
The flywheel is all steel, made by TTV racing in the UK.
@@davidrussellwilks i will be pulling mine soon upon arrival of my OD from UK this coming week.
Are you ever planning on doing videos on autobody? I know it's prob not what you like to do, but just basic stuff. I know you have some experience with high end bodyshops.
Thanks for your message Jerry, unfortunately I don't have any equipment for bodywork at home. I just go and see the guys at Lone Pine Garage lonepinegarage.com/ if anything needs fixing. If I do get the chance to record a video I will do.
Oh my god, David! How on earth can you pull the engine without any protection on the wings? Perhaps vou have the nicest restored MGB in historic racing. The effort that must have gone into bringing it to this state must be enormous. That definitely is not a 500 £ paint job! Sorry, but how on earth can you risk to damage it? It´s such a lovely car! Send me your address, and I´ll send you some wing protectors! Regards Danny
Many thanks for your message Danny, I do have a pair of wing protectors but in all honesty I don't really get on with them. You are quite correct that the paint finish is to a high standard. However I am always concerned about getting small particles of dirt or grit under the protectors and marking the paint. I tend not to put anything on the wings and then just make sure that I am careful, it also stops me resting tools or anything on them. I do put a cloth over the front apron just in case the sump brushes it when I am lifting the engine out.
If I have any tubes or cables draped over the wings; draining the fuel, setting the timing etc I do put a soft cloth under them to stop them marking the paint. When the car is polished just rubbing it with your finger will show on the surface of the paint, but I've had more damage from stone chips than from tools
Jubilee clips? Can you speak English? Haha joking mate. Great video.
You say just "MGB" as if all models and/or years are the exact same
Thanks for your comment; in fairness the engine and gearbox removal procedure is similar regardless of the year. The rubber bumper cars have different engine mount and the front diaphragm around the radiator is different but the same techniques will work, is there a step that you are having trouble with?
Hi David, great videos of work on your car m, just wondering is your gearbox 3 or 4 synchromesh thanks
Hi David, great videos of work on your car m, just wondering is your gearbox 3 or 4 synchromesh thanks
Hi David, great videos of work on your car m, just wondering is your gearbox 3 or 4 synchromesh thanks
It's a 4 sychro