My MGB GT is absolutely standard and runs REALLY well , the performance seems terrific. It will easily cruise at the national speed limit and could put another 30 on top of that easily and quite rapidly. Friends I take out on it are amazed and absolutely refuse to believe it's a standard engine. The trick that made all the difference was to statically time the ignition.
Just bought a Spax upgrade for my 79 MGBgt and hope to fit this weekend. It seems to be a relatively easy job with all bolt up parts and good explanation in the paper work.
FYI, having a intake setup like the car shown is OK if you're going to race your car, but if you're expecting to cruise on the highways at speed for distances you're going to see air fuel ratios in the high 16s to low 17s without some restriction at the intake. I find putting the Cooper cans back on took the cruse AFR down to 14:1. Running at cruise with a 16:1+ AFR is not good. K&N Cones are not much better either, that's why I went to Coopers because the two holes in the front of the carb which lets air into the domes need more of an atmospheric depression that the other type of filters or trumpets allow. Heavy gear oil in the dashpots or stiffer springs might help, but it also affects the lower settings more as well. Again for racing it doesn't matter, but for street you're looking to possibly hurt your pistons with AFRs like that for distance. P.S. Mine is a 10:1 comp MGB with a D9 cam, similar to the Piper 285 and currently the HIF 4s I have are setup with SAE20 oil in the dashpots and #6 needles with Cooper Cans and Wix filters and they're about perfect. 12:5 to 13:5 in most cases with AFRs at 14:5 at cruise never seeing higher than 15:1 on light throttle.
The inlets look fantastic, but the cylinders will get scored without filtration for street driving (for racing we don't care since the engine gets rebuilt periodically) The older MG's with dual SU carbs have decent air cleaners, with internal air horns. These would perform well with all the upgrades on this engine. I hated their appearance, so my solution was to use the original air horns with Weiand Ram-flo air cleaners. The filtration wasn't as fine as the original paper element, but did provide SOME protection for the engine.
I suppose it depends where you live, but for most of the UK you're probably right. I have a 95HP MGB GT Auto, and an 58HP ADO16 Austin 1300 and I'm always following other traffic.
Nicely thought-out mods, enough to give it a chance at the traffic lights and make it more comfortable on a run. I'd start with an earlier model, however. Mine was a '66, with the handsome crackle-painted dash (metal!) and large chrome-ringed instruments.
Nice video but I would prefer good air filtration with a couple of K&Ns installed; almost certainly better on filtration than the Pipercross Filter socks you said you installed later on the air rams.
I bought new a 1969 MGB GT ...loved it and never should have sold it. I think you should ditch those ugly rubber bumpers The e and get the chrome ones....Moss Motors may be a good source ? Agree with all your other upgrades.
I find third overdrive is handy if you have to temporarily slow down from fourth overdrive speeds (or go up a hill/overtake), it saves you coming out of overdrive.
As you speak so quickly, I didn’t understand most of your comments. Great looking car, like the mirrors and wipers, but surprise you haven’t changed those awful rubber bumpers. Enjoy.
@@kbrickell4732 As a Professor of logic I can assure you that it is impossible to create glare to the rear of the object in question the glare can only shine forward between a 100 degree arc.Thus it is simply not possible for any glare to be seen by the driver from chrome wipers.
More details please - new tyre size info please - AND how do the fatter tyres affect the steering - the stock steering is hard at low speeds - no power steer remember ... Sadly the engine is not getting cool air from outside - I remember my B ran much better on cool days - very important ... Glad you installed an electronic ignition system - but note - they are not all the same - the better ignition systems control engine knock - take advantage of the higher compression and high octane fuel ... As I Say - more details please - more Quantitative Info - this engineer wants more ...
What kind of air filters are those they look cool where they easy to swap over .does the choke cable still attached at the back of the carburetor or are they different in the later cars
@@journeyofapetrolhead They are too long. Shorter is better on SU carbs. Also, no filters, there is debris in the air which will eventually lead to wear in the engine.
Hi Old school mechanic had some old u bolts for the rear leaf springs that were longer than the usual ones available through the internet , so I jumped at the chance! Thanks for watching!
This is really fascinating and informative. I will bite the bullet soon and have a B. Thank you so much for posting - very very useful. Out of interest, what are the two silver cylindrical objects under the dashboard at time point 15:36?
Unknown! The car was rewired - badly - by a previous owner and there's a lot of extraneous items left over no longer in use... The smaller of those items once connected to the ignition.
If you get shot of the rubber bumpers it's like a good engine rebuild i think they weigh close to 100kg thats like kicking yer fat mate out of the car....😁
I'm in Ireland with the same speed bumps you encounter...no issues to date with my lowered stance. I'm not dragging off the ground, to be fair, and the handling is vastly improved...
My MGB GT is absolutely standard and runs REALLY well , the performance seems terrific.
It will easily cruise at the national speed limit and could put another 30 on top of that easily and quite rapidly.
Friends I take out on it are amazed and absolutely refuse to believe it's a standard engine.
The trick that made all the difference was to statically time the ignition.
Just bought a Spax upgrade for my 79 MGBgt and hope to fit this weekend. It seems to be a relatively easy job with all bolt up parts and good explanation in the paper work.
FYI, having a intake setup like the car shown is OK if you're going to race your car, but if you're expecting to cruise on the highways at speed for distances you're going to see air fuel ratios in the high 16s to low 17s without some restriction at the intake. I find putting the Cooper cans back on took the cruse AFR down to 14:1. Running at cruise with a 16:1+ AFR is not good. K&N Cones are not much better either, that's why I went to Coopers because the two holes in the front of the carb which lets air into the domes need more of an atmospheric depression that the other type of filters or trumpets allow. Heavy gear oil in the dashpots or stiffer springs might help, but it also affects the lower settings more as well.
Again for racing it doesn't matter, but for street you're looking to possibly hurt your pistons with AFRs like that for distance.
P.S. Mine is a 10:1 comp MGB with a D9 cam, similar to the Piper 285 and currently the HIF 4s I have are setup with SAE20 oil in the dashpots and #6 needles with Cooper Cans and Wix filters and they're about perfect. 12:5 to 13:5 in most cases with AFRs at 14:5 at cruise never seeing higher than 15:1 on light throttle.
The inlets look fantastic, but the cylinders will get scored without filtration for street driving (for racing we don't care since the engine gets rebuilt periodically) The older MG's with dual SU carbs have decent air cleaners, with internal air horns. These would perform well with all the upgrades on this engine. I hated their appearance, so my solution was to use the original air horns with Weiand Ram-flo air cleaners. The filtration wasn't as fine as the original paper element, but did provide SOME protection for the engine.
What do mean it can't keep up with modern traffic !!! Most traffic goes so slow due to overcrowded roads and overpopulation in the UK !!
I suppose it depends where you live, but for most of the UK you're probably right. I have a 95HP MGB GT Auto, and an 58HP ADO16 Austin 1300 and I'm always following other traffic.
Should have said England
Nicely thought-out mods, enough to give it a chance at the traffic lights and make it more comfortable on a run. I'd start with an earlier model, however. Mine was a '66, with the handsome crackle-painted dash (metal!) and large chrome-ringed instruments.
Nice video but I would prefer good air filtration with a couple of K&Ns installed; almost certainly better on filtration than the Pipercross Filter socks you said you installed later on the air rams.
Good coverage.
I bought new a 1969 MGB GT ...loved it and never should have sold it. I think you should ditch those ugly rubber bumpers The e and get the chrome ones....Moss Motors may be a good source ? Agree with all your other upgrades.
I find third overdrive is handy if you have to temporarily slow down from fourth overdrive speeds (or go up a hill/overtake), it saves you coming out of overdrive.
As you speak so quickly, I didn’t understand most of your comments. Great looking car, like the mirrors and wipers, but surprise you haven’t changed those awful rubber bumpers. Enjoy.
Specsavers now do hearing tests
ok let's hear. it
chrome wiper were banned due to glare from the sun on moving shiny chrome distracting the driver
Nah!
So a massive chrome front bumper didn’t matter 🇬🇧👎🏽
@@davidweston4007 bumpers are no in the drivers field of view. area A and area B and swept area
@@kbrickell4732 As a Professor of logic I can assure you that it is impossible to create glare to the rear of the object in question the glare can only shine forward between a 100 degree arc.Thus it is simply not possible for any glare to be seen by the driver from chrome wipers.
@@bertiewooster3326 you obously know nothing about vehicle design and logic
More details please - new tyre size info please - AND how do the fatter tyres affect the steering - the stock steering is hard at low speeds - no power steer remember ...
Sadly the engine is not getting cool air from outside - I remember my B ran much better on cool days - very important ...
Glad you installed an electronic ignition system - but note - they are not all the same - the better ignition systems control engine knock - take advantage of the higher compression and high octane fuel ...
As I Say - more details please - more Quantitative Info - this engineer wants more ...
Fabulous upgrades, just shame they’re fitted to a ghastly rubber bumper edition. Still regret selling my 1972 BGT…..☹️
Have you got a link to those air inlets? Thank you in advance
Can't keep up with modern traffic? What 20MPH if your lucky? 😅
What kind of air filters are those they look cool where they easy to swap over .does the choke cable still attached at the back of the carburetor or are they different in the later cars
Easy peasy! They're called air rams.
And yes to the Choke cable.
@@journeyofapetrolhead thanks for the information regards Paul
@@journeyofapetrolhead They are too long. Shorter is better on SU carbs. Also, no filters, there is debris in the air which will eventually lead to wear in the engine.
Pipercross Filter socks added ages ago. Don't agree on the length comment.
higher vehicle is better cos of the infestations of speed humps
What lowering kit have you used to get that much heigth off the back ?
Hi
Old school mechanic had some old u bolts for the rear leaf springs that were longer than the usual ones available through the internet , so I jumped at the chance!
Thanks for watching!
@@journeyofapetrolhead Longer U bolts don't lower the rear on their own. The kit must have included lowering blocks.
Aye sorry if that wasn't clear
This is really fascinating and informative. I will bite the bullet soon and have a B. Thank you so much for posting - very very useful. Out of interest, what are the two silver cylindrical objects under the dashboard at time point 15:36?
Unknown!
The car was rewired - badly - by a previous owner and there's a lot of extraneous items left over no longer in use...
The smaller of those items once connected to the ignition.
Wiper motor and indicator flasher.
i would put a aircon kit, rather than a leaky windy roof, you can get aircon kits for this car
I prefer fresh air and I don't want another pump to draw away from engine power.
Thanks for watching.
@@journeyofapetrolhead put a tuned up engine in
.having the roof open is a huge drag ..
what is the spec for the wheels and tyres ie sizes?
Minilight wheels are 5.5x15"
Tyres are Nankang 185/65 R15 NA-1-XL
If you get shot of the rubber bumpers it's like a good engine rebuild i think they weigh close to 100kg thats like kicking yer fat mate out of the car....😁
Aye, there's a steel girder, for all intents and purposes, behind the front one.
But I prefer the rubber bumper look...
Thanks for watching 👍
Best upgrade is tyres.
Change those horrible rubber bumpers to propper chrome ones....
the roads in the uk suffer due to woke do-gooders speed humps, so raised suspension rubber bumper is getter
I'm in Ireland with the same speed bumps you encounter...no issues to date with my lowered stance.
I'm not dragging off the ground, to be fair, and the handling is vastly improved...