I would junk the B series engine, mainly because it was obsolete when it was first fitted in 1960s and then fit a more modern unit. The B series was not even a good engine when it was designed, so it isn't worth keeping.
Some very good upgrades which will also make the car more reliable too. These will also help with safety in modern traffic if for example you find yourself travelling in the dark your lights will be brighter as you mentioned Steve. Some good information in this video for anyone who wishes to do these upgrades so thank you Steve for filming this. 👍👍
Nice Video, I went with 3 more aggressive upgrades for my '64 "B"---custom full chassis, custom suspension (tubular A-arms/coilovers, 4-link/coilovers), 400hp SBC, it works for me
Great iformation! I appreciate that you're always willing to share. Many enthusiasts that convert to spin-on oil filters have complained about the adapter coming loose. A great point you made about folding the tab washer.
As a MG fan, always love seeing you work on the MG's in your videos. Have had 4 in my lifetime, 72B, 76 Midget, 66 MGB, and 78 MGB, always something with them, but still love them. Hope to get one again. My last 78 clutch went out and wasn't worth fixing with all the rust it had for me. The best was when I brought home the 66 B towing, and the banjo axle came out on 74 by Galesburg IL that was fun. I guess my fault for believing the it was secure as it should of been. Love your upgrades and useful information always. - Doug
Mine is a later model B so already has a spin off filter & alternator. The best mods for later Bs are lower it, fit a 3/4" front ARB and get rid of the rear ARB. Handles much better.
Very nice! Well done. I'm getting ready to re-install the rebuilt engine into my rubber bumper MGB. It's been a while since I removed the ignition and this is a good refresher on distributor positioning and timing.
Good advise and video. You might want to mention that the Pertronix unit should be used with an impedance matched coil the the pickup whether a breaker plate conversion or a complete distributor replacement and that it needs to be fed with a full 12v, battery voltage to the coil. No resistance wires fusible links or ballast resistors for proper operation in the circuit from the ignition switch.
Seems like an afternoon well spent. And a nice example of a B too. I feel like i have more room once i get into my Bugeye compared to when i ride in someone else's B
Iv'e been driving, autoxing/racing LBC's since 1964... Love your videos. Byt he way, I have a '82 Porsche 924 TURBO that is looking for a new caretaker...... Two MGB" s and a '59 Bug Eye are plenty
I owned a 67' red MGB and it was a bit of a pain in the ass BUT I am now 73 years old and still miss it. Wire wheels,wooden steering wheel,90 weight oil in the carbs and a ton of fun to drive. If some manufacturer could figure out a way to make an updated version of the MGB or Triumph TR6 with modern safety features and more reliability they would not be able to build them fast enough!!
I came here only to post the snide comment - the only two upgrades you need for an MGB are "X" and "5", you can keep the "M". However this is an excellent how-to video, very well made and nicely covers the details that might catch out the neophyte. Impressed.
I have always preferred the old canister style oil filters! Do it right and they are much easier than the disposable type that you are converting to. You actually showed how easy to remover the old style filter really is, and wrestling a disposable type is much more difficult! Another thing I dislike is converting to electronic ignition from conventional coil and breakers with condenser. Okay that it is wise to keep some spares by you if on a long trip or even away on holiday, but they are easy to fix in a short time, whereas if electronic ignition fails you are literally stranded till you can get a complete unit as they are not user serviceable. I know some people are mystified by the quirks of old school petrol engines, but essentially they are simple and quite easy to fix! I also prefer push rods and simple screws and lock nut adjusters to overhead cams! And the best camshaft drive on any car engine that I ever came across was in the old Volvo Red Block push rod engine using gears rather than a chain or rubber belt ... I really enjoy your videos! best wishes from George in UK.
The Pertronix unit installs just like points and is even quicker to replace than points just one or two screws and you done not adjusting or retiming needed.
@@ThisWeekWithCars I bet it cost more than the old school parts though. I like stock original as far as can be managed! I know you have to be a certain age to want that, but I have been fiddling with these old things since childhood in the 1960s and '70s. Best wishes from George
I don’t know if you have bought parts recently but the quality of points today are terrible. The metals that are used for the contacts are terrible and burn up or corrode quicker than my cars that have points that I have never replaced.
@@ThisWeekWithCars That is why you need to have my luck and know an old school garage with a large stock of NOS parts! I have been patronising my local garage since 1979 as a customer and known them since the the mid-1960s. I think they look at me as more of a friend of the family than a customer, and they look after me and my vehicles very reasonably. Three generations of one family, and all brilliant at what they do! Best wishes from George
@@ThisWeekWithCarsI built a car with a re manufactured engine and a reconditioned Lucas 45D4 distributor. The points failed the following day after its maiden voyage. I went through many new condensers and points sets over a few years and at one time was buying three sets in the hope of finding a good one. The car was never reliable until I replaced the entire points setup with an Aldon Ignitor module. Fit and forget.
One thing I'd definitely add for safety reasons is an electronic turn signal flasher upgrade. Usually, if you're at idle with your headlights on, your windshield wipers turned on and your blower motor running, your original equipment turn signal flasher won't blink or will barely blink. An electronic flasher will blink at a normal flasher rate no matter what other electrical device is turned on. It will even blink at a normal rate even if the engine is not running. I picked mine up out of a modern car I found at the wrecking yard. For my other MGB I found an electronic flasher unit at an auto parts store. Way back then it was about $10.00. I think Moss Motors finally carries them now, but other places carry them as well. My 68 and 77 MGB has a two wire electronic ignition flasher. Some other modern cars have three wire. I have no idea if they can be rewired and turned into two wire. - Thomas
I owned a 68 MGB back in the late 1970's. I loved that car. Today I own a 2023 Mazda MX-5 Miata. One never loses their love for basic sports cars. Basic sports cars are the best cars. Enjoy your MGB.
I bought a brand new 1969 B, different from Yours in that mine had an Alternator OEM and the crap smog air pump. Michlin ZX Radials replaced the OEM bias-ply Dunlaps on day one. I replaced the twin SU's wit a 45DCOE Weber Carb and trashed the smog crap. A bolt in Roll bar, the wire wheels gave way to Minilites, larger Dia. front sway bar and added rear sway bar. I also did a performance upgrade with Porting and polishing the head to match the Weber manifold and added BMC factory tube headers and completed with Abarth exhaust. I owned that car 12 years and replaced the Brakes (pads and rear shoes) once. I wish I still had it. i
Thanks for the real world approach to the MGB as a classic. I've had my 74 B since 2000, My B never fails to start and has left me stranded only once in 24 years. I use it 2-3 times week. I've done the same modifications as shown over a longer period of time however. May I suggest installing a headlight sub harness with two relays and updating to halogen headlights. This made a huge difference over the stock Lucas lights. I'm contemplating LED headlights any ideas? I also updated my fuel pump to an electronic version of the SU, it's a direct bolt in and has performed flawlessly for 22 years now and still going. I drive this car about 2K mi / year down from the 4K miles / year before I retired. I get in it and drive it like I do my Ram truck, start it and go. The overdrive is really nice and I can cruise on the freeway at 70MPH with no issues. I had two British cars, a 67 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 and my 74B, guess which one I sold. It was just too much trouble...
I have used many LED headlights in old cars and after having many that don't look right, give the wrong color lights, or have terrible quality I have been installing the lights from vintagecarleds.com which give a great original look. Although many of my cars have them this video comes to mind ua-cam.com/video/4kX84xl0I58/v-deo.html
I believe changing the electrics to negative earth will also require changing the tacho to a negative earth type. Probably the easiest way to do this is to obtain a tacho from a Mk 2 model.
The oil adapter kit had some problems a few years ago that lead to oil leaking profusely because the filter ended improperly seated and had a gap between its base and the adapter. Hopefully Moss fixed it by now.
The oil filter change is certainly worth while. However I cannot see the point in changing the dynamo, distributor or starter motor. I've owned my MGA for over 65 years now and I've never experienced any problems with the standard set up. Very well explained though but those cars really aren't that unreliable and in my opinion don't need updating.
The standard cartridge oil filter is in many ways a better option, its more robust and the make up of the oil filter is way more better engineered than a modern canister filter. The reasons quoted for the change are only convenience and that does not outweigh engineering quality. Its no coincidence that Mercedes and VAG along with many motorsport teams use a filter with a cartridge element. When you take out the cartridge you can inspect the filter pleats for debris, when was the last time you did that with a modern filter?
I do it all the time with a cutter like this www.summitracing.com/parts/lng-77750 The new element filters are designed differently from the old 'leak-from-five-places' model you’re familiar with. They were created to be more user-friendly, as previous spin-on filters often had failures when technicians didn’t torque them correctly. The old MG design would never be approved for production today, as it would lead to numerous warranty issues due to improper installation.
60 mga "when I wore a younger man's clothes". Next upgrade, & this is worth it's weight in silver, if not gold: an electric fan. The difference will be noticeable.🤣 Ed c
Fak it just drop a 5.0 w/aluminum heads & a T-5 in it and call it a day... (Some custom fabrication might be needed) But boy will it be fast & reliable. :)
Hey Steve, it's my understanding that the rear main "seal" on these engines weren't really a seal - which is why they leak oil so much. If true, is there a retrofit fix for this as well?
Most British cars are that, there are modern seal conversions available that require machining of parts to be installed but I have not had good results with them. If your engine is properly vented and the valve cover is connected to the air filter as original the original system works well.
@@ThisWeekWithCars These cars benefit greatly from upgraded brakes and suspension modifications. Age also affects the ride quality because of the shock absorbers. These are fun cars if the suspension is fresh and tight.
@@ThisWeekWithCars Many years ago my family was in the forklift business. At that time the company was known as Perlux instead of Pertronics. We used a lot of their breakerless ignitors especially when the distributors would wear and not hold a point gap. They had a high failure rate. Put a set in a TR6 I used to own and left me on the side of the road once. So in my MGB I kept the original Lucas points and keep a spare in the trunk.
Don't you think the reliability has changed over the years, they are easier to change out than changing points, and a lot more reliable than the points made today which are cheap junk.
@@ThisWeekWithCars Hopefully the reliability has gotten better. True on the poor quality of replacement parts. For now, I purchased a couple of NOS Blue Streak points at a local swap meet. When those are used up I may take another look at it.
Having fallen in love with and owned a 65 mgb, I believe the must-have upgrades are every piece of functional hardware. Everything broke due to bad design.
I'm going to hazard a guess that these three upgrades/changes would fit almost ANY car from the period using that damned Lucas electrical system. My dad had a Triumph TR-3A that was a frigging NIGHTMARE to work on in the 1970's, even when parts WERE available!
Does anyone make an overdrive for these? Brit cars were made for the roads they'd see at home, that was before the motorways opened and speeds were quite low, generally well below 60 while American freeways even then were doing 70s. The little pushrod four at that higher speed won't be happy for too long. Some british imports came with a kit to adjust for American gas, it raised the compressor by about a point and allowed more spark advance, British gas was almost kerosene in that regard.
These cars could be had from the factory with overdrive giving you six gears there are also many five speed conversions to modern transmissions available.
How you do all this, commentate at the same time, and film is beyond clever. Presumably it did not take 18 minutes as we know you are explaining bits and doing it off camera. You have an absolute gift for this type of video. It should be compulsory viewing in college where they teach garage mechanics!
My "66 B I believe has an electric one. Every time I hit a big dip in the road it disengages briefly so I imagine there's a weak spring some wheres in the solenoid?
totally agree with the change, great video, but "throw the old filter in the trash" REALLY??? How about taking it to a place where it can be dealt with properly
I have had more problems with modern pumps, especially the cheap Facet pumps than I have ever had with the SU pumps. I do like the solid state SU pumps that are now being made.
@@ThisWeekWithCars My pump, which I've had on the car for 20 years or more is the SU, fit & forget. When I originally rebuilt the car I bought a new SU pump (with points) & it ran fine for years but as luck would have it, it needed a tap on a rainy evening, when I was dressed up.
On one of my MGB's, I replaced the original fuel pump with a Honda Accord fuel pump from a wrecking yard. Of course, it was from an older, carbureted Accord. Worked perfectly. The other mod that I made was putting a electrical cut-off switch behind the front seat. The kind of switch they use on drag racing cars. When I shut off the engine, I just reach behind me and turn the switch. No battery drain from the "Prince of Darkness" and would=be car thieves would be baffled.
I fixed my 77 up real good I put a Mustang V8 Mustang transmission 373 gear it has 14 fews and three relays now now I can drive the car not be afraid it's going to break
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Exactly how classics should be - upgrade for practical and reliability reasons but maintain all the key elements that make this car the classic it is.
I would junk the B series engine, mainly because it was obsolete when it was first fitted in 1960s and then fit a more modern unit. The B series was not even a good engine when it was designed, so it isn't worth keeping.
Nothing sounds nicer than the B accelerating hard in second gear, nice work, Steve!
Some very good upgrades which will also make the car more reliable too. These will also help with safety in modern traffic if for example you find yourself travelling in the dark your lights will be brighter as you mentioned Steve. Some good information in this video for anyone who wishes to do these upgrades so thank you Steve for filming this. 👍👍
Thanks Once Again Steve. You've got the Best English car How To videos on the the tube.
Nice Video, I went with 3 more aggressive upgrades for my '64 "B"---custom full chassis, custom suspension (tubular A-arms/coilovers, 4-link/coilovers), 400hp SBC, it works for me
Great iformation! I appreciate that you're always willing to share. Many enthusiasts that convert to spin-on oil filters have complained about the adapter coming loose. A great point you made about folding the tab washer.
As a MG fan, always love seeing you work on the MG's in your videos. Have had 4 in my lifetime, 72B, 76 Midget, 66 MGB, and 78 MGB, always something with them, but still love them. Hope to get one again. My last 78 clutch went out and wasn't worth fixing with all the rust it had for me. The best was when I brought home the 66 B towing, and the banjo axle came out on 74 by Galesburg IL that was fun. I guess my fault for believing the it was secure as it should of been. Love your upgrades and useful information always. - Doug
Mine is a later model B so already has a spin off filter & alternator. The best mods for later Bs are lower it, fit a 3/4" front ARB and get rid of the rear ARB. Handles much better.
Great tips I'm just now changing to a new starter and alternator on my '67 MGB GT. I'm going to follow your wiring instead of moss's. Thanks
Very nice! Well done. I'm getting ready to re-install the rebuilt engine into my rubber bumper MGB. It's been a while since I removed the ignition and this is a good refresher on distributor positioning and timing.
Great to see you climbing to 100K subscribers. Well deserved
Steve , this is one immaculate example . Lovely ❤
Good advise and video. You might want to mention that the Pertronix unit should be used with an impedance matched coil the the pickup whether a breaker plate conversion or a complete distributor replacement and that it needs to be fed with a full 12v, battery voltage to the coil. No resistance wires fusible links or ballast resistors for proper operation in the circuit from the ignition switch.
Another Outstanding video and presentation.
That is a Keeper MGB to keep in your collection.
Seems like an afternoon well spent. And a nice example of a B too. I feel like i have more room once i get into my Bugeye compared to when i ride in someone else's B
The B is bigger but I think it’s most noticeable when getting in and out of it. The larger doors make a bid difference.
Iv'e been driving, autoxing/racing LBC's since 1964... Love your videos. Byt he way, I have a '82 Porsche 924 TURBO that is looking for a new caretaker...... Two MGB"
s and a '59 Bug Eye are plenty
I owned a 67' red MGB and it was a bit of a pain in the ass BUT I am now 73 years old and still miss it. Wire wheels,wooden steering wheel,90 weight oil in the carbs and a ton of fun to drive. If some manufacturer could figure out a way to make an updated version of the MGB or Triumph TR6 with modern safety features and more reliability they would not be able to build them fast enough!!
I think it's called the Mazda Miata 😉
Finally a proper video. It was really good too. Nice upgrades 👍
I came here only to post the snide comment - the only two upgrades you need for an MGB are "X" and "5", you can keep the "M". However this is an excellent how-to video, very well made and nicely covers the details that might catch out the neophyte. Impressed.
Nice work, and video quality. Simple dizzy install, I deal with SBF/BBF units that give anxious moments….
I have always preferred the old canister style oil filters! Do it right and they are much easier than the disposable type that you are converting to. You actually showed how easy to remover the old style filter really is, and wrestling a disposable type is much more difficult!
Another thing I dislike is converting to electronic ignition from conventional coil and breakers with condenser.
Okay that it is wise to keep some spares by you if on a long trip or even away on holiday, but they are easy to fix in a short time, whereas if electronic ignition fails you are literally stranded till you can get a complete unit as they are not user serviceable.
I know some people are mystified by the quirks of old school petrol engines, but essentially they are simple and quite easy to fix!
I also prefer push rods and simple screws and lock nut adjusters to overhead cams! And the best camshaft drive on any car engine that I ever came across was in the old Volvo Red Block push rod engine using gears rather than a chain or rubber belt ...
I really enjoy your videos!
best wishes from George in UK.
The Pertronix unit installs just like points and is even quicker to replace than points just one or two screws and you done not adjusting or retiming needed.
@@ThisWeekWithCars I bet it cost more than the old school parts though. I like stock original as far as can be managed!
I know you have to be a certain age to want that, but I have been fiddling with these old things since childhood in the 1960s and '70s.
Best wishes from George
I don’t know if you have bought parts recently but the quality of points today are terrible. The metals that are used for the contacts are terrible and burn up or corrode quicker than my cars that have points that I have never replaced.
@@ThisWeekWithCars That is why you need to have my luck and know an old school garage with a large stock of NOS parts! I have been patronising my local garage since 1979 as a customer and known them since the the mid-1960s.
I think they look at me as more of a friend of the family than a customer, and they look after me and my vehicles very reasonably. Three generations of one family, and all brilliant at what they do!
Best wishes from George
@@ThisWeekWithCarsI built a car with a re manufactured engine and a reconditioned Lucas 45D4 distributor. The points failed the following day after its maiden voyage. I went through many new condensers and points sets over a few years and at one time was buying three sets in the hope of finding a good one. The car was never reliable until I replaced the entire points setup with an Aldon Ignitor module. Fit and forget.
Very impressed with the tracking ability of your drone
@@stevejones9788 I believe Steve is using an Insta360 camera on a stick for those shots
😂😂
One thing I'd definitely add for safety reasons is an electronic turn signal flasher upgrade. Usually, if you're at idle with your headlights on, your windshield wipers turned on and your blower motor running, your original equipment turn signal flasher won't blink or will barely blink. An electronic flasher will blink at a normal flasher rate no matter what other electrical device is turned on. It will even blink at a normal rate even if the engine is not running. I picked mine up out of a modern car I found at the wrecking yard. For my other MGB I found an electronic flasher unit at an auto parts store. Way back then it was about $10.00. I think Moss Motors finally carries them now, but other places carry them as well. My 68 and 77 MGB has a two wire electronic ignition flasher. Some other modern cars have three wire. I have no idea if they can be rewired and turned into two wire. - Thomas
I owned a 68 MGB back in the late 1970's. I loved that car. Today I own a 2023 Mazda MX-5 Miata. One never loses their love for basic sports cars. Basic sports cars are the best cars. Enjoy your MGB.
Another great video. Thanks
Spot on mate. Well done.
My first car was a 1956 MG-A. Surely my favourite ride.
I bought a brand new 1969 B, different from Yours in that mine had an Alternator OEM and the crap smog air pump.
Michlin ZX Radials replaced the OEM bias-ply Dunlaps on day one.
I replaced the twin SU's wit a 45DCOE Weber Carb and trashed the smog crap.
A bolt in Roll bar, the wire wheels gave way to Minilites, larger Dia. front sway bar and added rear sway bar.
I also did a performance upgrade with Porting and polishing the head to match the Weber manifold and added BMC factory tube headers and completed with Abarth exhaust.
I owned that car 12 years and replaced the Brakes (pads and rear shoes) once.
I wish I still had it. i
1968 model year was the first year for alternators on the MGB
Looks and sounds lovely.
Awesome. More please
"At this point, the oil, which will be all over you..". Lol, the voice of experience.
Excellent video. I have a 66 MGB so this is much needed information. I wonder if Moss will change their kit.
Great tips for these useful upgrades!
Thanks for the real world approach to the MGB as a classic. I've had my 74 B since 2000, My B never fails to start and has left me stranded only once in 24 years. I use it 2-3 times week. I've done the same modifications as shown over a longer period of time however. May I suggest installing a headlight sub harness with two relays and updating to halogen headlights. This made a huge difference over the stock Lucas lights. I'm contemplating LED headlights any ideas? I also updated my fuel pump to an electronic version of the SU, it's a direct bolt in and has performed flawlessly for 22 years now and still going. I drive this car about 2K mi / year down from the 4K miles / year before I retired. I get in it and drive it like I do my Ram truck, start it and go. The overdrive is really nice and I can cruise on the freeway at 70MPH with no issues. I had two British cars, a 67 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 and my 74B, guess which one I sold. It was just too much trouble...
I have used many LED headlights in old cars and after having many that don't look right, give the wrong color lights, or have terrible quality I have been installing the lights from vintagecarleds.com which give a great original look. Although many of my cars have them this video comes to mind ua-cam.com/video/4kX84xl0I58/v-deo.html
An upgrade I did to mine was to fit horizontal dampers to the rear axle to cure the bastard axle hop.
Excellent
I believe changing the electrics to negative earth will also require changing the tacho to a negative earth type. Probably the easiest way to do this is to obtain a tacho from a Mk 2 model.
The oil adapter kit had some problems a few years ago that lead to oil leaking profusely because the filter ended improperly seated and had a gap between its base and the adapter. Hopefully Moss fixed it by now.
Good job great vid
Had a 67 MGB. I miss it and would love to find one in usable condition and a reasonable price.
More of this stuf!
Fortunately, my '72 GT has all but the electronic ignition from the factory, although my oil filter spins on from the top.
Steve, what gage wire did you use between the alternator and the solenoid?
Lucas alternators are usually under 40 amps so a 6 AWG or even a short 8 AWG will be fine.
The oil filter change is certainly worth while. However I cannot see the point in changing the dynamo, distributor or starter motor. I've owned my MGA for over 65 years now and I've never experienced any problems with the standard set up.
Very well explained though but those cars really aren't that unreliable and in my opinion don't need updating.
The standard cartridge oil filter is in many ways a better option, its more robust and the make up of the oil filter is way more better engineered than a modern canister filter. The reasons quoted for the change are only convenience and that does not outweigh engineering quality. Its no coincidence that Mercedes and VAG along with many motorsport teams use a filter with a cartridge element. When you take out the cartridge you can inspect the filter pleats for debris, when was the last time you did that with a modern filter?
I do it all the time with a cutter like this www.summitracing.com/parts/lng-77750 The new element filters are designed differently from the old 'leak-from-five-places' model you’re familiar with. They were created to be more user-friendly, as previous spin-on filters often had failures when technicians didn’t torque them correctly. The old MG design would never be approved for production today, as it would lead to numerous warranty issues due to improper installation.
60 mga "when I wore a younger man's clothes". Next upgrade, & this is worth it's weight in silver, if not gold: an electric fan. The difference will be noticeable.🤣
Ed c
Fak it just drop a 5.0 w/aluminum heads & a T-5 in it and call it a day... (Some custom fabrication might be needed) But boy will it be fast & reliable. :)
Hey Steve, it's my understanding that the rear main "seal" on these engines weren't really a seal - which is why they leak oil so much. If true, is there a retrofit fix for this as well?
Most British cars are that, there are modern seal conversions available that require machining of parts to be installed but I have not had good results with them. If your engine is properly vented and the valve cover is connected to the air filter as original the original system works well.
Not the upgrades I expected to see, but valuable ones just the same. Will we be seeing an upgrade to the front shocks next?
What reliability upgrades did you expect?
@@ThisWeekWithCars These cars benefit greatly from upgraded brakes and suspension modifications. Age also affects the ride quality because of the shock absorbers. These are fun cars if the suspension is fresh and tight.
I am with you on everything except the Pertronix distributor. Not a fan, I prefer the original Lucas point ignition.
What is your reasoning?
@@ThisWeekWithCars Many years ago my family was in the forklift business. At that time the company was known as Perlux instead of Pertronics. We used a lot of their breakerless ignitors especially when the distributors would wear and not hold a point gap. They had a high failure rate. Put a set in a TR6 I used to own and left me on the side of the road once. So in my MGB I kept the original Lucas points and keep a spare in the trunk.
@@ThisWeekWithCars Really like your videos. Always watch for the new ones when they come out.
Don't you think the reliability has changed over the years, they are easier to change out than changing points, and a lot more reliable than the points made today which are cheap junk.
@@ThisWeekWithCars Hopefully the reliability has gotten better. True on the poor quality of replacement parts. For now, I purchased a couple of NOS Blue Streak points at a local swap meet. When those are used up I may take another look at it.
Having fallen in love with and owned a 65 mgb, I believe the must-have upgrades are every piece of functional hardware. Everything broke due to bad design.
Why not use a different color wire for num 1 plug to distributor?
All that work and you still kept the points and condenser ? With the distributor out you could have replaced them with electronic ignition quite easy.
The Pertronix distributor I installed in this video is electronic.
@ sorry must have missed that bit !
I'm going to hazard a guess that these three upgrades/changes would fit almost ANY car from the period using that damned Lucas electrical system. My dad had a Triumph TR-3A that was a frigging NIGHTMARE to work on in the 1970's, even when parts WERE available!
Does anyone make an overdrive for these? Brit cars were made for the roads they'd see at home, that was before the motorways opened and speeds were quite low, generally well below 60 while American freeways even then were doing 70s. The little pushrod four at that higher speed won't be happy for too long. Some british imports came with a kit to adjust for American gas, it raised the compressor by about a point and allowed more spark advance, British gas was almost kerosene in that regard.
These cars could be had from the factory with overdrive giving you six gears there are also many five speed conversions to modern transmissions available.
The one MGB I owned had what I guess was the factory overdrive... If I remember correctly it was a stalk switch on the steering column
How you do all this, commentate at the same time, and film is beyond clever. Presumably it did not take 18 minutes as we know you are explaining bits and doing it off camera. You have an absolute gift for this type of video. It should be compulsory viewing in college where they teach garage mechanics!
My "66 B I believe has an electric one. Every time I hit a big dip in the road it disengages briefly so I imagine there's a weak spring some wheres in the solenoid?
😎👍
You didn't show changing the earth (ground) at the battery.
As I said in the video this car had already been converted by someone in the past to put in a modern radio.
Sorry, not listening properly 😅
totally agree with the change, great video, but "throw the old filter in the trash" REALLY??? How about taking it to a place where it can be dealt with properly
Remember to say when your finished ''Bobs your uncle and Fanny is your proverbial'' you'll sound way more British appropriate!
I’ve never heard that second half before
@@ThisWeekWithCarsme neither! And I’m a Brit
Anyone who uses “your” when they should use “you’re” and “British appropriate” should be giving instruction on English expressions
@@lrcb40 you're clearly lacking yourself buddy boy-go check
Bobs you are uncle🤣
You forgot, install a solid-state fuel pump, no more tapping with a hammer or cleaning the points with emery paper.
I have had more problems with modern pumps, especially the cheap Facet pumps than I have ever had with the SU pumps. I do like the solid state SU pumps that are now being made.
@@ThisWeekWithCars My pump, which I've had on the car for 20 years or more is the SU, fit & forget. When I originally rebuilt the car I bought a new SU pump (with points) & it ran fine for years but as luck would have it, it needed a tap on a rainy evening, when I was dressed up.
On one of my MGB's, I replaced the original fuel pump with a Honda Accord fuel pump from a wrecking yard. Of course, it was from an older, carbureted Accord. Worked perfectly. The other mod that I made was putting a electrical cut-off switch behind the front seat. The kind of switch they use on drag racing cars. When I shut off the engine, I just reach behind me and turn the switch. No battery drain from the "Prince of Darkness" and would=be car thieves would be baffled.
Best reliability thing is to swap the engine for a Honda unit
Coming from a multiple Brit car owner, please add a 4th mod - get rd of the SU's or worse, CD. Webers - set 'em and forget 'em.
Best upgrade is get a Morgan!
Best upgrade for an MG; a Miata.
Let's not throw the old oil filters in trash. Most auto parts stores that recycle old oil can do same with the filter.
Many parts stores just throw the used ones you give them into trash dumpster...
It needs an LS swap.
These are reliability changes.
😊
You would have to saw it in half and extent the engine bay to get it in 😅
Best upgrade is a Honda K series engine install, with EFI (Haltech). I had an MGB in 1972 and there is no version of that motor that is salvageable.
Sorry, you sound like Mr Peepers!
School nurse Nancy Remington likes him.
Easy...be rid of Lucas, Girling, an SU
Want it more reliable? Install a Toyota truck drivetrain. Nothing else will make it work reliably.
I fixed my 77 up real good I put a Mustang V8 Mustang transmission 373 gear it has 14 fews and three relays now now I can drive the car not be afraid it's going to break