Outstanding video and presentation. The replacement of the rear transmission bolts on a Non-overdrive transmission is easy compared to the Overdrive equipped MGBs. (There is way less access to the front mounting bolts on the transmission.
Thanks for the video confirming to take out the steering rack as l have a 1979 MGB Australian right hand drive to do that particular mount. Cheers Steve 🍺🍺🍺
I sometimes think that some hero should redesign that rear mount as a one piece unit so that you remove the two bolts in the crossmember, drop the crossmember and then R&R the mount with all nuts welded in place so a single ratcheting wrench is all that's needed. BTW, I think your alternator has been bodged in place as it should mount to the ear on the water pump, not the upper mount for the air injection pump.
Yeah, there are a few bits on these that seem to have been engineered without much thought for being able to service it later. As for the alternator, you may be right. Not my car, but I'll have a look next time it's here.
Need to do this to my 80 B. Wondering if there is any way of doing the driver's side without removing the steering rack. I've heard it's possible with a very flat wrench.
It's probably possible to get the nut off the mount, bit it'd be darn near impossible to get the new one on. Some years may be different, but I'd bet you're stuck removing the rack. The good news is that pulling the steering is actually the easy part. A few bolts and you're done.
Great video, thank you! Funny that you work with a watch on. I'd break mine the first day! As to the rear transmission cross brace, a friend drilled access holes in his cross member, and then scored slots in the bolts, so he could drive them with a screwdriver.
Not a bad idea. Honestly anything that improves access is a good idea provided it doesn't significantly detract from strength or leave spots that can rot later (also assuming you aren't going for concours, of course). As for the watch, I can't be without one. My wrist feels like it's missing something. I do use a cheaper off-brand watch now though, and I've started using one with a leather strap just in case something gets caught. Straps are pretty cheap to replace, but a metal band wouldn't be quite so friendly to my wrist....
In my MGB days I needed to get at the heater core. That wasn't fun either.... I'm pretty sure with these cars they start with the heater and then build the rest of the car around it!
I'm deep into one of these as I write a comment. The actual job was a clutch replacement, but with the engine/trans out of the car , the mounts disintegrated . So , I'm doing the mounts with the engine removed , but the alignment of all those offset parts and pulling the rack is putting this job at just under $ 2000 bucks. Just counting my hours spent.
I Have a square spacer on both L/R sides of motor mounts . Which leaves a space on the top side of the mount when installed. Can I exchange the spacer for a large washer same size as mount . Should leave no space,
At the gearbox crossmember, there is a vertical bushing assembly. I am refreshing mine when the parts arrive. This bushing assembly is not seen without removing the entire crossmember. Okay, everybody groan now because we must remove the gearbox crossmember again. LOL
If I told you how many times I went back after filming something and replaced a part I missed, I'd lose some credibility... ;) But yeah. For the life of me, I don't know why the factory deemed it necessary to have such a complicated set of bushings at the back. Austin Healeys are the same way.
@midwestmotoring No worries! It's 2024. Most of us now realize everyone is a human being, and there's more credit in laughing at ourselves. My MGB has gearbox block/side mounts which are definitely ages newer than the vertical business. It's my understanding that the vertical assembly dampens, well, vertically. One supposes the block mounts dampen rotationally as do the engine mounts.
I don't recall unfortunately, but it is NOT metric, nor are most bolts in an MGB. I belive 1/2 or 9/16 inch? Those and a 7/16 will handle most bolts and nuts on the whole car.
I did this for my 79 mgb and it made it a breeze! Thanks for this informative video
Happy it helped someone! My scars on my hands are still healing....
Outstanding video and presentation. The replacement of the rear transmission bolts on a Non-overdrive transmission is easy compared to the Overdrive equipped MGBs. (There is way less access to the front mounting bolts on the transmission.
It wasn't my favorite job to do, that's for sure! Then again, as I probably have said elsewhere, it was easier than accessing the heater core....
I'm going to be pulling engine and trans out so my mounts will be easier, hopefully. Love your sarcasm, makes the job more fun
Life without sarcasm is so much more boring....
Thanks for the video confirming to take out the steering rack as l have a 1979 MGB Australian right hand drive to do that particular mount. Cheers Steve 🍺🍺🍺
It was a pain, but it would have been worse to not pull the rack. Hopefully it went well for you afterwards!
I sometimes think that some hero should redesign that rear mount as a one piece unit so that you remove the two bolts in the crossmember, drop the crossmember and then R&R the mount with all nuts welded in place so a single ratcheting wrench is all that's needed. BTW, I think your alternator has been bodged in place as it should mount to the ear on the water pump, not the upper mount for the air injection pump.
Yeah, there are a few bits on these that seem to have been engineered without much thought for being able to service it later. As for the alternator, you may be right. Not my car, but I'll have a look next time it's here.
Need to do this to my 80 B. Wondering if there is any way of doing the driver's side without removing the steering rack. I've heard it's possible with a very flat wrench.
It's probably possible to get the nut off the mount, bit it'd be darn near impossible to get the new one on. Some years may be different, but I'd bet you're stuck removing the rack. The good news is that pulling the steering is actually the easy part. A few bolts and you're done.
Great video, thank you! Funny that you work with a watch on. I'd break mine the first day! As to the rear transmission cross brace, a friend drilled access holes in his cross member, and then scored slots in the bolts, so he could drive them with a screwdriver.
Not a bad idea. Honestly anything that improves access is a good idea provided it doesn't significantly detract from strength or leave spots that can rot later (also assuming you aren't going for concours, of course).
As for the watch, I can't be without one. My wrist feels like it's missing something. I do use a cheaper off-brand watch now though, and I've started using one with a leather strap just in case something gets caught. Straps are pretty cheap to replace, but a metal band wouldn't be quite so friendly to my wrist....
@@midwestmotoring has to be one of the worst jobs ever to get that cross brace mounted, especially with an LH overdrive.
In my MGB days I needed to get at the heater core. That wasn't fun either.... I'm pretty sure with these cars they start with the heater and then build the rest of the car around it!
I'm deep into one of these as I write a comment. The actual job was a clutch replacement, but with the engine/trans out of the car , the mounts disintegrated . So , I'm doing the mounts with the engine removed , but the alignment of all those offset parts and pulling the rack is putting this job at just under $ 2000 bucks. Just counting my hours spent.
It's surprising, isn't it? I can't tell you how many "half hour jobs" ended up taking days.
Did the mount change correct your shifting problem?
It did, yes!
I Have a square spacer on both L/R sides of motor mounts . Which leaves a space on the top side of the mount when installed. Can I exchange the spacer for a large washer same size as mount . Should leave no space,
I don't know for sure, but I don't see why not.
At the gearbox crossmember, there is a vertical bushing assembly. I am refreshing mine when the parts arrive. This bushing assembly is not seen without removing the entire crossmember. Okay, everybody groan now because we must remove the gearbox crossmember again. LOL
If I told you how many times I went back after filming something and replaced a part I missed, I'd lose some credibility... ;) But yeah. For the life of me, I don't know why the factory deemed it necessary to have such a complicated set of bushings at the back. Austin Healeys are the same way.
@midwestmotoring No worries! It's 2024. Most of us now realize everyone is a human being, and there's more credit in laughing at ourselves. My MGB has gearbox block/side mounts which are definitely ages newer than the vertical business. It's my understanding that the vertical assembly dampens, well, vertically. One supposes the block mounts dampen rotationally as do the engine mounts.
What size spanner did you use??
I don't recall unfortunately, but it is NOT metric, nor are most bolts in an MGB. I belive 1/2 or 9/16 inch? Those and a 7/16 will handle most bolts and nuts on the whole car.
Next project…..
Loose the watch 😂
I do love knowing what time it is while underneath a car... but you're probably right.
Been there, done that. Way too many times.....
I don't envy you. Mgb mounts are just a bear!
Mr. Bean engineering.
Still the worst job I've tackled in a while.
@@midwestmotoring I have the engine and tranny out. Not looking forward to body work. I don't have welding skills.