Mercedes 722.3 Valve Body Internals - What goes Where
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- Опубліковано 8 бер 2021
- Curious about what's inside? Can't remember where all the bits go? Not sure if you are missing something? Maybe this video can help. It steps through reference pictures showing the actual internal parts, location, and orientation.
The valve body shown is from a Mercedes 722.3 automatic transmission from a Porsche 928 S4. Some pictures of the case underbelly are also shown as components are removed. This is for added reference. There are some variances in the parts used over the production years. - Авто та транспорт
Amazing video. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching! Glad you liked it
it could be really great if you do a similar video with the rebuild of the 722.3 transmission.
Nice video. Just finished cleaning the valve body and replace the K1 accumulator as mine does not click as it suppose too. The car shift very well in all gears, 1 problem is when ever i shift from P or N to R or D i feel a jerk reverse and forward respectively. I pressed the brake pedal as how i normally would in any automatic car. Do you have any ideas what the cause might be? Thanks.
Thanks for watching. First thing I would check is vacuum to the modulator. Good luck on your repair!
If the car shifts fine up and down though the gears while driving, shouldnt the vacuum to the modulator be fine? Or i might be wrong?
It will still shift if the modulator is not calibrated or vacuum is not present;however, vacuum / modulator issue will be hard or soft shift. Hard if no vacuum. Soft if modulator is adjusted too far. Issues are most noticeable at idle.
Exact same problem here. When I adjust the vacuum modulator, it has a very noticeable effect through the gears, but not so much at idle. It flares more when I reduce vacuum, and tightens shifts if I increase vacuum, as expected. However, I still get that jerk from P to D and D to P and R to D as you've described.
Superb video!
I need an advise how to remove those aluminum pistons inside the cylinders. Some of them stuck pretty bad and don't move. I even scratched one with the pick tool in attempt to slide it down the cylinder.
Thank you in advance!
Thanks! Yes, the pistons can be stubborn sometimes. Usually they can be removed using just a pick and thin needle-nose pliers. These tools can be seen in the video, as well as a long thin screwdriver. Gentle tapping on the piston from the end and nudging the piston back and forth, with patience, can help free stuck pistons (Obviously if there is a retaining clip it needs to be removed first). I've used a bent-tip pick sometimes to nudge a piston from the end using a twisting motion. Compressed air can assist too but be careful. Good luck!
Far more complicated then it looks from outside!
Who made it, was more than smart!
I agree, great engineering!
Mark, this is a great resource. Thank you.
I have a very small valve-body piece which I cannot place... its check valve, I think. Its not in the video - or fo it is, I can't find it.
Its a very small black plastic, on tiny coil spring seated on a nylon base with a locator arm on one side. The black plastic piston is about the same circumference as a check ball. Under the piston is a tiny spindle, through the tiny coil spring. When the piston is pressed the spindle slides into the tiny hole in center of the attached nylon base, effectively closing the hole on the nylon base. I think it goes in the same valve body block face as the check balls. But I cannot see where...
Thanks for watching. I noticed differences in design of the valves between years. I might try process of elimination, by placing others first, to see where it goes. Good luck with the repair!
excellent video. are there higher performance parts such as valvess and springs for improved faster shifts?
Thanks for watching! If you look online there are shift correction kits available.
@@markfranke8326 ok thanks
Thanks for the video! I have a w116 with a 722.1 gearbox, which has been idle for 10 years, and the gearbox is unstable. I would like to know if these balls and valves can be unlocked without opening the gearbox? Could you put decarbonizing in the oil?
If it were me I’d open it up, inspect, and clean it out. It is not hard, just keep it clean. The balls, in some of these, and some parts are not metal, and parts that are such as springs should be inspected, and there are lot of nooks and crannies.
@@markfranke8326 Good morning Mark,
I will do this very carefully.
Thank you very much,
Marcos
Hi I have a 722.319 transmission for a 90 300 se and there is no control pressure spring on mine. But I did find what looks like a mangled up spring at bottom of pan. Do all 722.3 series transmission have that spring. Because in the 722.3 manual it dosent show the spring
Hi - thanks for watching! I cannot vouch for all, but if you google search on it you can read operating experience about these springs breaking in 722.3xx - .6xx, or people forget to reattach them, and associated transmission malfunction. Does your CP lever arm have a notch for the spring? If so, you may be missing it.. or it is what you see mangled in the pan. Good luck!
What a fantastic video! Had a question, what valves or accumulators would control smooth shifting at idle from P to D or D to P with brake depressed? My '91 300e jerks everytime but is otherwise very smooth through the gears except for an occasional flare 2 to 3 at part throttle.
thanks for watching!... suggest first check your vacuum to the modulator. If you have a leak or modulator failure it can cause hard shifts, which are particularly evident at idle..
@@markfranke8326 So, observing this for about an year, I've noticed that when starting from cold, there is no jerk from P to D. It's firm and smooth, very Mercedes like. Then as she warms up, I go from D to R (smooth), but going from R to D (jerk). I've fiddled with every other part of this car and restored to factory condition. Adjusted Vacuum Modulator to drastically reduce 2-3 flare (still exists, k1 spring change scheduled for tonight). Every local mechanic (non 722.3 expert of course) suggests problem is internal. Fluid is new and very hard to find, so I have to really plan any transmission work. I have one more question, how much fluid will I lose if I lift the rear, and drop just the pan to access k1 spring? I have about 3 litres of IID left .. lol
@@shaazygood luck with your repair! K1 should be easy to access from the lower body. The video shows what the cover plate looks like. A few quarts will stay in the torque converter, but the rest may be exposed to contamination when you drain and drop the pan. Ideally its best to replace with fresh fluid, unless you can filter/reuse. Good luck
May I know is this the same valve body that’s in the 1993 SL600?
Looks like the 93 SL600 has a 722.362? There may be VB differences unique to the transmission. However, for basic purposes of identifying where things go internally, it appears 722.3 series are essentially the same.... number/locations of check balls, strainers and regulators, etc. Of note, the service manual covers 722.3xx and 722.4xx series with the same valve body diagram. Some of the parts, springs and tuning are likely different, which I've noticed even with a limited number of VBs with the same transmission case number.
Excelente video, te hago una consulta de qué manera puedo solucionar el tirón del primer cambio al segundo. Después el resto de los cambios funcionan casi sin tiron después de limpiar las válvulas. De qué otra manera se puede solucionar eso.
Thanks for watching! Have you checked for vacuum to the modulator? Loss of vacuum and working pressure causing harsh engagement is more noticeable in the lower gears.
Hi, nice work! I have a 722.3. When I start the engine, I select D or 3 but don’t move. When I select 2B in selector it starts. Then I push the selector in D and keep changing the gears to 4… I really stuck. Any idea? I have clean the valve housing and change all the inner parts of the gearbox
I did a rebuild and ended up with the same issue: gets 1st and 2nd gear only when in selector position "2". Still trying to figure it out. Check the governor pressure as you drive, to eliminate a stuck governor. Then check working pressure while shifting from one selector position to another. That'll give you a definite pressure indicator, that 3 or D selector positions have low pressure.
In my case: I think its a one-way clutch failure in the torque converter... I'll let you know if I end up changing it and it cures the issue. Occasionally mine will work properly in 3 and D... maybe 1 in 20 times. Like you, all new frictions, seals and bands.
Hi would you have the compressed size and diameter and wire width of the control pressure spring from end of hook to end of hook?
Sorry I do not; however, if you look at the reference picture, you can estimate it by measuring the gap. The hooks are oriented 90degrees from each other. The spring width is about the width of the mounting tab.
Hi I’ve noticed in some 722.3 transmissions there is no control pressure spring.
interesting, haven't seen that yet.
Hii.i have w124 300e i have 1 problem.we i take the gear to (R) the car is kicking.but all gears are ok.only in revers the car is shooting or kicking where is the problem? Tnx
Did you find a solution? Mine is smooth in R but it jerks from R to D or D to P or P to D.
Could a bad vaccum modulator cause a late shift?
Bad modulator or loss of vacuum can cause hard shifting. Have you checked your fluid level?
@@markfranke8326 brand new fluids and filter.I have a high rpm shift from 2-3 and from 3-4 bodween cable fully relaxed and it still shifts late...if i tighten it a bit it will shift even higher..
@@salehfiras943 ah, ok. After the control pressure cable (Bowden), have you checked the kick down switch and the voltage at the solenoid to make sure it is not sticking, and if that is ok, the control valve function?
@@markfranke8326 i removed the switch under the pedal didnt check the solenoid tho..i thought if i removed the switch it wont get any voltage
@@salehfiras943 that should do it. Did you work on the valve body? If so, I would check for any binding of the function of the control plunger.
0:05 brain of German engineer ?
Lol