722.3 Valve Body Rebuild
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- Опубліковано 8 тра 2016
- Superior Shift Kit installation, cleaning, disassembly and reassembly. Relevant to 722.3 transmissions found in Mercedes Benz 300D 300SD 300TD, etc. Also applies to some 722.4 transmissions.
- Авто та транспорт
Great video! Thanks for sharing! Helped me have a reference for my 722.3 valve body rebuild.
Note there is one mistake. The TV valve retainer, the beige plastic "C" ring, doesn't go into the slot you are showing in the video. It goes into the slot just below it, so that the TV plunger can move.
You are right, I pointed to the wrong slot in the video.
thank you. doing this job today and this video is great!
Thanks for the great video! Just a heads up, at 04:30 you indicate that a check ball shouldn't be in that little depression. On my 722.315 (82' 300D), and all documentation for the 722.3 and 722.4 indicates there is indeed a ball there. Just a heads up for anyone else, there are little differences to be aware of.
Love the video! Has helped me out a lot. Thank you!!!
Thank you for such a great video, you've inspired me to work on my VB, however I noted that you did not change the Accumulator Seals, please explain why not. Thank you and keep up the good work.
whether due to the inclusion of the accumulator switching on to drop the pressure of fluid reverse gear included bad?
This is a great resource. Thank you. Do you have any insight why, after a seals, frictions and bands rebuild, the vehicle will not start out in selector D or 3, but will engage properly in selector 2, then manual shift to selector 3 or D will get the 3, 4 gears, which will shift at proper speed/rpm and with good feel.
perfect video soo usefull
WOW did I ever make a massive mistake. I followed your procedure to perfection and when i wanted to put it back together I see you just said Put them back in then flashed to them being back in. You didn't show how to put them back in. That completely screwed me up side down. Now I have all the valves out and don't know how to out them back in. I have to take it to a merc dealer now and pay them my left arm and leg to put it back together. One bump of the table to screw up the matching order and Im F'd Sure wish you didn't skip all of that in the video led me into screwing myself Thanks for that bro HA HA HA Oh well now I can decide of i dont want to drive me car or dont want to eat
Nice video. Just finished cleaning the valve body and replace the K1 sensor as mine does not click as it suppose too. The car shift very well in all gears, 1 problem is when ever i shift from P or N to R or D i feel a jerk reverse and forward respectively. I pressed the brake pedal as how i normally would in any automatic car. Do you have any ideas what the cause might be? Thanks.
It should have firm engagement when you shift from reverse to drive. It shouldn't slam into gear, though. If it's slamming into gear, you might check your engine idle speed or there could be an issue with an accumulator.
Which accumulator should i look into? I have the manual with the name of each components in the valve body but no idea which one will affect my problem.
Engine idle speed 600-700rpm with the AC on
My transmission shifts fine except in two scenarios. When I'm just idling with no gas pedal through a parking lot and when the car eventually speeds up on hits own to shift into second it thuds into gear and almost breaks my neck. The other time it does it is when you're going 50mph, slow down for a turn at a stoplight while rolling, take the turn, and then when accelerating moderately after straightening out the turn, again BAM slams as it does a downshift. Any ideas?
Hi do the 2 plastic bits on either end of the k1 accumulator spring at 30.50 have to clip together when compressed
I have a question. So that whole plunger that you said works when the Bowden cable is engaged. Does that plunger ave any other purpose
in valve bodi stuck accumulator switching on and spring screwdriver without removing cleaned,spring not looked very closely might have something else stuck
hmm this transmision is used in other small engines too e260 and i think in smaller engines too,they just change gear ratio in differential!
Great video and thanks for sharing it. I recently changed my valve body on my ’82 300TD MB and have run into some problems that I thought you might be able to help. The car has a 722.3 transmission with 170K miles on it and because it was flaring I sat out to clean the valve body (VB). I replaced the springs with those from a kit. During re-assembly it slipped my hand and hit the floor. One of the bore holes was damaged and I had to order a used one. Although this second VB was from a 722.3 transmission, it had slight differences with my old one. I think it was from a later model 722.3. Now after putting everything back together and making all the vacuum and Bowden cable adjustments, it would not shift beyond the first gear. Do you happen to have any idea what could be wrong or what could be done. What options do you think I have. The engine, the exterior and the interior are all good and I hate to give up on it.
Thanks,
Myron
If the valve body you bought came from a gas powered car, it will be very different from that of a Diesel powered car. These transmissions underwent several revisions from the early 80's to mid 90's. Your valve body should have had a part number on it. If you can match that, you are golden. If not, something from a 1980 to 1983 300D or 300TD might have a very good chance of working. The transmission in the W123 (722.315) was slightly different than the W126 (722.303); mostly in the tail housing for the W123's speedometer cable. You might have luck with a valve body from a W126 Diesel if options are limited.
@@eatont9999 I am pretty sure that the second VB came from a diesel engine. Part number was different from my old one. The part number on my original one is 126 270 3607. Do you happen to have a rebuilt one with that part number or one from that period (1980-1983). Thanks.
Hi at 34.50 on the video the capsule with the spring inside, do you know where I can buy the capsule?
Hi I have the 722.3 petrol 90 300se. Can I replace the original 2 springs in the k2 with the pink spring
Hi i open my 722.415 and is not a k1 shut off valve u sink it will work without it thanks from Uruguay excellent vídeo
I'm not sure what you are trying to say. If the valve body has not been modified before and it was working when removed, I would say to reassemble it as it was. Let me know more information if I am not understanding your question.
Great video. Where did you get the spring kit? Do you know where to get the o-rings / seals? Thanks
I bought it on ebay. Any seals that did not come with the spring kit would be in a rebuild kit.
So the 1 to 2 shift spring that makes is softer. Is that spring weaker in strength or stronger in strength than the original ? The reason I ask is because I want to make my 1 to 2 shift HARDER like a drag racer. and wonder if i need a stronger or weaker spring to make that happen .
I believe it would require a weaker spring. The replacements feel heavier than the originals.
@@eatont9999 OK Excellent Thank you
Hi from Armenia...
I broke the plastic c clip. Any idea where to get one?
Also my converter adaption control valve didn't have a spring on it. It is a 722.418.
Probably have to source it from a used transmission in a junk yard. Some 722 variants will have different spring setups. Just put back the way it came apart and you should be fine.
I have a w140 600sel 1992
Shifts are late reach till 3000 rpm to shift
I replaced another valve body and after fixing start the car no reverse no D nothing the car doesn’t move could you please help me fix this issue
I rebuild the transmission clutches and seals but this problem occur these days
would ultrasound clean it? i'm never really a fan of disassembly unless really necessary... couch critic :)
Edmond, ultrasound would clean the exterior portions but there would be no way to get the debris out of the internals without disassembly.
Thank you for sharing this very interesting video. I´m planning to install the shift Kit K722G on my 722.350. So i was hoping to find out where the K1/K2 accumulator control valve springs - from instruction step 2 - are located. But this video does not show where to find them, right? They are only shown disassembled and placed beside the valve body. It´s quite hard to find some pics where one could see that..also how they are attached into it...or did I miss something here..? Regards
OK, i watched it once more and at around min 28 the two accumulator control valve springs are mentioned specificly. So it seems that i could assume where they are placed. I was hoping to see how they are taken out and put in again. The valve body needs to be serperated into it´s upper and lower parts only because of theses two springs to be replaced, right? And then a question regarding the control valve balls: How likely is it they fall out of it´s positions if i follow the procedure like described here? And if one is fallen out can I see to which place they have to go back again.Or is there a chance of putting them back into a wrong place....? Provided that I´m not completely blind and/or stupid.... ;-) Thanks
Hii how are you.ihave w126 300se 1988 and i have 1 problem.the revers gear are kicking.not slepping.wen i take the gear (R) the car is kicking.tnx😀
Superb video!
I'm doing this job right now. Can't remove the last one - K1 Accumulator Control Valve (aluminum piston right at the orifice and doesn't move out, only goes in). While removing these plungers and pistons I noticed that some move really hard (perhaps my tranny is in awful condition due to unprecedented buildup of friction material). I think I might need to do slight honing of the aluminum pistons to have a smother travel. I mean it really gives me a sense that they might stuck during operation, which in it's own turn will cause slip/flare. And I also think it is worth to do so because i scratch them while manipulating on removing. What do you think?
P.S. Forgot to mention: My valve assembly doesn't have the followings: 1) Primary Check Valve (main valve body);
and 2) Secondary Pump Shift Valve; 3) Check Valve on small valve body
Is this just a variation or perhaps this transmission was previously rebuilt with mistakes?
Clean up the pistons and bores really well, lube them and see if they still stick. If they do, then I suggest a product called "bore buddies" to hone the bores. Tip: When reinstalling the valve body, be sure to refer to and follow the torque specs exactly. Over torqueing the bolts will cause pistons to hang in the bores and you will lose a shift point.
@@eatont9999 Thank you so much for the lightning fast response and valuable information!
@@eatont9999 HONE THE BORE IS ABSOLUTELY WRONG!!! I HAVE A MUCH BETTER METODE!!!
hi nice video i need your help i have low miles 722.3 from v12 gas version the 1-2 shift is harsh at times all others are so smooth what can you recommend to fix the 1-2 shifts ? its had a new modulator valve and oil filer i hope you reply to help me?
I assume you are running the transmission with the original V12 engine, right? If it is just the 1-2 upshift giving you problems, check for a broken accumulator spring in the valve body. I also have to assume all the linkages and vacuum pressures are to factory spec, right?
hi again can you confirm something pls on the manual for 722.3 it says when selector is all the way to left its L and then S what does this mean?
L is manual low, S is manual second. Often used for engine braking. Most people never use those positions. Don't attempt to shift into manual ranges unless you are withing the speed specified in the owner's manual.
Good day, I need a video or photo repair and analysis of the hydraulic unit of the automatic transmission 722.367 Mercedes S 350 W 140 is very necessary, thanks for the help
I don't have access to that specific transmission or valve body but all 722.3 series valve bodies will disassemble like the one in the video. The springs and plungers might be different but as long as they go back in the way they came out, you should be fine.
Such old video I don't guess I'll get response... but...I suspect my accumulator piston or springs are stuck (not likely broken aye?)... I don't want to remove the valve body with my crook old back in my cold driveway. Would a bottle of Lucas Anti Slip be able to unstick that piston?
Sorry but no. Nothing in a bottle is going to un-stick a seized piston. More often than not, I see the springs broken rather than the piston stuck in the bore. The only times I see pistons stuck are when the transmission is producing metal particles or the fluid has been severely neglected with worn clutches. If your fluid looks clean and does not have a burnt odor, you are likely looking at a broken spring or mis-adjustment.
@@eatont9999 Wow. Thanks for replying. Big help. Reverse hesitates before slipping and occasionally shuddering. I haven't had car long. The gearbox looks as if it's a recent replacement, but fluid is brownish yet doesnt smell burnt. I thought it would be the B3 clutch but then found official MB announcement
stating that my symptoms are often the valve body pistons. Shifts really well in forward gears. It had about 1 quart too much fluid which I removed.
I have a 722.3 that was working fine until it got coolant in it from the radiator due to a failed oil cooler.
I flushed the fluid twice and and new filter but now it will not shift out of first gear.
Pan was clean other than pink fluid.
What could have been damaged?
When water gets into the transmission, it destroys the clutch material. Unfortunately, I think you are going to need a rebuild on the unit. There could also be sludge in the valve body causing a blockage. It's near impossible to get all the water out; it's in the torque converter, valve body, clutch packs, filter, etc.
Not good.
What does the up shift? I think the clutch pacs are ok. Just not shifting.
How do you know you need to do this and what improvements do u gain from this?
The symptoms can vary widely because the valve body is "brain" of the transmission. People usually complain about not shifting into a gear, slipping, or taking a longer than normal amount of time to shift. There are several adjustments that can be made with the bowden cable and VCV but if the issues persist, cleaning the VB can sometimes help. If you drain your fluid, pull your pan and you do not see significant amounts of clutch build up, metal flake or metal shards, you may benefit from cleaning the VB. If you pull the pan and it's a dumpster fire in there, you likely have worse issues to deal with.
Excellent Video! At 19:55 you show us the split teflon seal ring inside the plastic housing. My rebuild kit does not seem to have this seal. Do you know where to buy one? Thanks!
You might be able to find it online. You may need to measure the dimensions of the old one to have a reference point. The ones I replaced came with the rebuild kit, so I have not had to source those individual parts.
Found the part in EPC and ordered it from the dealership. Less than $5 for the plastic housing and seal. Mercedes calls this a Control Pressure Seal Ring, p/n 1262700080.
Glad to hear you found it. Thanks for sharing!
I found this kit that contains the various Teflon seals. 126 270 06 35
Thanks! How much was it and where did you purchase it?
Very interesting! I just lost my 4th gear on my 1983 300sd. It shifts 1-2-3 then 4 but it slips... If I give it a chance by dropping the rpm on 4th, it will get going but I have to be gentle. So after seeing this video, I'm thinking that cleaning the valve body would be a good thing to do first. I belive that I have the superior shift kit already installed. So my question is , how many valve body Have you had surgery before? It would be my first time. The Benz is jack on blocks now so I can change bushings and others stuff.
I have had about 5 of these valve bodies apart for cleaning, etc. I will tell you straight forward that cleaning and resealing the valve body does not always fix the problem. Often times, when a gear is completely lost, it is a problem internal to the transmission.
+eatont9999 I understand... But Luckyly, it's not a total gear lost, so it might work with a oil change and cleaning only... Nice job restoring you 300sd by the way. Jp
Thanks for your good video. It was very helpfull for me and now the 300sd shift wonderfull.
Hi Eaton, thanks for this video.
I am from Mauritius and just owned a 300 SEL 3.0 6L with a 722.319.
Can you please help as when engaging the Reverse gear, the car gives a big KICK and then reverse.
There are no specialists and no parts for same...😟🙏🙏
Have you checked the fluid level and condition? Is the engine warm or cold when it kicks? Is there a delay before it kicks in?
@@eatont9999
Thanks to your prompt response.
The fluid has been replaced by Dextron II and it kicks on both cold and warm.
There's a delay on when engaging the R and even the D.
@@SuperMember2010 You could have a sticking valve in the VB and the rebuild process in this video may help. You could also have worn out reverse clutches or seals. In the latter case, a full transmission rebuild would be needed. My experience is that if the transmission has never been rebuilt, the rubber seals are hardened at this age.
@@eatont9999
Thanks a lot. 😃
Any idea where I can buy a reliable full set?
Ebay is full of those, but don't know which one is the correct one.
@@SuperMember2010 I use the one from Precision International. 722.3 kit 1981-1995.
hi .... what repair kit did you use ..? and where can i find it ..??
It is called a "Superior Shift Kit" I bought mine on ebay brand new.
hello, I had a 722.3 transmission overhaul but it did not work I only have first gear and rear, mechanic claims I need another valve body, he said the valves are sticking inside, he frees it but they stick again after transmission heat up and stay stuck until you open the valve body again to frees it.. he tried sand it a little bit but no luck. he said seems like the heat deforms the valve body unit or the valves material, does it make sense? is it possible to recover this valve body or I really need another one ? and do you have a theory to why is this happened ? thank you !!!! greetings from brazil
I would be very curious if he is tightening the valve body to the transmission case using Mercedes torque specs and sequence. Too much torque on the bolts will cause the valve body to warp slightly and the valves will stick.
@@eatont9999 thank you! It’s very possible
cleaned my 722.3 valve body it restored the 2nd to 3rd flaring but I notice it now wont shift to 4th!!! What could be wrong? Did I miss somthing?? Before even with the flaring from 2 to 3, once it shifts at 3rd, it then shifts to 4th. But it only remains at 3rd and i could hear the engine at high rev in 3rd.!!!!!
Check the torque on your valve body bolts. Sounds like you have a valve hanging up in the bore.
@@eatont9999 Thanks for the important info. Would you happen to know the desired torque info?
@@EndofUSA 8Nm
@@eatont9999 thank you for that vital info. A further clarification. In your video as you assembled the VB the first 2 screws you didn't torque them. You just screwed the two screws by hand. You didn't use any torque wrench. So does it mean the first 2 screws you dont have to torque them properly? Thank you
@@EndofUSA I couldn't find a spec for the two halves. I just tightened them as close as I thought they were originally.
Good video I believe it is for a 722.4 correct?
The valve body in the video is a 722.3xx model. The 722.4xx is very similar, though.
After this rebuild what is the amelioration ? Sorry for my bad english :)
I am happy with the results. It seemed to improve the responsiveness of the transmission. The transmission in that car has probably 400,000 miles on it, so it is overdue for a complete rebuild. I hope to finish that project one day.
thx. My transmssion has small shock when is shifting between 1-2. this rebuild can solve the problem ? What do you think ?
If you have already tried adjusting the vacuum modulator, etc and it has not helped. As a last resort, you could install a shift correction package. If the transmission does not slam hard into 2nd, select the mild springs. It is almost impossible to get all of the hard shifting out of a 722.3 but it should not be uncomfortable to drive the car.
Thx :)
I have an engine m103.983, with transmission 722.320, 300CE 87'.Could you help me to determine the factory numbers of these springs, because no one knows ... I only found for the 722.4.
Which springs are you looking for? I didn't see all the valve body springs but here is break-down of the transmission and part numbers: nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/mercedes/1/ga/722320/79V/27/001/
@@eatont9999 I am looking for springs k1, k2, b1. Besides, is the valve body from the 722.320 transmission is the same as in this video?
The valve body is similar but not the same. The springs are most of what is different. The one I worked on was for the Diesel models. Superior offers a shift kit for the gas engine models that includes springs and plungers similar to the ones shown in this video. I'll post a link to their site if I can find the right kit for you.
superiortransmission.com/product/superior-k722a-g/
which model Mercedes diesel engines do the 722.3 fit
The OM617 series both turbo and NA. Possibly the OM616 but I have not messed with the 616 enough to be 100% sure.
thanks for that also the 722.08 is the same pattern gearbox but later model, which diesels will that fit?
If it is one generation newer, that would be the OM60x series engines. They were used from 1986 into the 90's.
Where can I get a gear selector rod from,mine's broke! Have any idea?
You will probably have to pull one from the junk yard. Check Craigslist for people parting out Mercedes of this vintage. See if there is a pull-a-part near you and ask if they have any Mercedes cars like yours.
eatont9999 I have a 94 s500 coupe with the 722.3 so can any one fit?
All the ones I have seen are the same. I think they put the same transmission in the sedans, so it might be easier to find one of them in the junk yard. Anything from S300 to S600 or a W140 chassis.
eatont9999 thanks bro for the help,really appreciate it👍
I don't know what can I do....
lost all gears, all made out changed clutches, brake B1 start to work normally, but the back gear is turned badly stalled vibrates back gear..please help me..and sorry for my English
+Ak S600 Are you referring to a 722.3/4 transmission? If so, you can follow this video closely to thoroughly clean the valve body after you remove it from the transmission. Make sure you are getting the proper line pressure to ensure the pump is working correctly.
eatont9999 thank You very much for the answer, yes it is exactly 722.4
today removed all cleaned again gathered the same...
I think the reason for overrunning clutchIt may be due to the freewheel?
is on the way down in the reverse mode does not continue sometimes going
I think problem one way clutch ?It may be due to this slip back?
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worst filming ever.!
Always a unappreciative anal retentive somewhere in the crowd isn't there? eastont9999 I am very grateful for the video. Much appreciated. You went out of your way to help us and you didn't have to lift a finger to that but you did anyway. As for the nay sayers. Well.... I bet they are totally oblivious to the fact KARMA is the reason they are having so much crap happen to them in there life. Maybe when they are broken down and forced to walk 10 miles down some old unused dark road in the rain they can remember the things they did to cause that karma to deliver itself on them. smh