wow this is literally the only video of a wheel bearing job I've ever seen where it was explained in a way that I actually understand everything you are doing. thanks this is very helpful
Lol!! Last year I was forced to think of using my floorjack to loosen over torqued lugnuts on my nephews Dodge Ram. I knew I was going to hurt my back if I didn't brainstorm something. There were so tight my breaker bar even bent alittle!! Great Video By The Way, Very Entertaining and Informative
Good to know. Thanks for sharing, Kelvin. If you are able to remove the hub using a slide hammer or something, does it look like the rest of the tool can still be used for the wheel bearing itself?
This is actually the best video I’ve seen for replacing front wheel bearings. I give u first place. Well thought out…excellent commentary. Actually enjoyable. And all done without power tools.
Been watching a lot of hub pulling out videos. Most of them were enough to convince me not to attempt it. Your video was the first one with great video shots showing the details and the tool looked more convincing than the others. .. Thanks...
I can't say thank you enough. I did not know this tool existed let alone that it was a free rental from Oriely's. The last time i did this job was on an 05 Mazda 6 and ended up breaking a thumb and waisting a week of my life. This time I was done with each side in less than 4 hrs. Thank you
This is PERFECT. Other videos I watched have the guy completely taking apart the entire strut assembly. This is brilliant! I definately saved a lot of time and hassle by watching this. Thanks!
A few tips as I’ve done this on fusions/milans several times. USE a Milwaukee Fuel impact driver, it pushes the bearing/hub in/out in seconds. It’s ok to use it with this kit as it’s overbuilt to begin with. Use vice grips to secure snap ring once you get it out of the groove and you’re prying it out so it doesn’t go flying. Don’t waste $ on a new hub- cut the race off of the old one. A bit of grease on things helps it slide in/out that much easier. Rent the press kit from O’Reilly’s. You DO NOT need to disconnect the ball joints to do it this way. You most likely won’t be able to anyways. Take your time!
Thanks so much!!!! For the past 2 days I’ve been trying to replace my driver side wheel bearing(2005 Honda Civic). Advance auto and AutoZone in my area did not rent out this tool. Not sure if Napa rented it out, but after watching your video I went straight to O’Reilly’s(I called first to make sure they had it in stock)It was $399.99 to rent, but you get it back all when you bring it back within 48 hours. It feels so good to be back in my car! I had to take public transportation, got on the wrong train that was an express train out of the state, thankfully Amtrak stop the train (which had no stops for an hour) and allowed me to go back the direction that I came. It feels so good to be back in my car!
Truly dude this is one of the best videos on wheel bearing/hub replacement I’ve seen, if you can make videos of repairs at this level you should try to get some of that UA-cam money 🤑 and honestly it would help many people out as you have a very methodical approach and easy to follow
Great job, just bookmarked this video. Hands down the best at home bearing replacement video. All other's show much work & expensive tools. Removing the rotor is now the hardest part & not shown here. Every shop quoted $400 or more. Bearing sets as low as $20 online vs $80 & up at auto stores. If I can use the bearing tools, I'll pay the $80. Toyota wants about $300 for hub & bearing, understanding auto shop's charges. Plenty of labor, for $300 I will labor more than they will & buy OE bearings.
Wow great video. I am going to go back and watch parts again. I have watched other "hub and bearing press" videos and i like how you explain the process. I just paid 500 bucks to a shop to fix one front bearing and now i know i could have done it myself (and i have a lot more tools than you did it with). As others said if you do any auto DIY it is totally worth it to get a 1/2 inch impact wrench! Will save you from having to use that adjustable plumbing wrench and floor jack
Agreed with Arvind, Trey and Kelvin. I removed the ENTIRE steering knuckle from the car, which was time wasteful in retrospect because I thought I needed to use my HF Arbor Press. I will locate the tools you’ve used so I don’t have to waste that time in the future. Thanks again.
Good video! Liked the comment about the freezing of the bearing and just letting it go! Very funny. But what is really impressive is how clean your under carriage is! There is no rust and it looks like everything is sand blasted. Very nice. Super fun to work on clean cars.
This video is awesome man I appreciate it, i laughed when you were talking about freezing bearings and said "well if the cold doesn't bother you anyway" my daughter watched that frozen movie so much! I really appreciate you making this it's going to be vital, I also don't have a press but I do have the rental tool available, thanks again man!
Awesome video! I used the same tool from oreillys to press out a wheel bearing on a Honda Accord a few years ago. Worked like a charm except I made one critical mistake when pressing the new hub in. I used the wrong spacer. Instead of using the one for the inner race on the backside of the bearing I used the one for the outter race. I could feel the bearing breaking apart before the hub was fully seated. Needless to say lesson learned.
Yes I had to replace the bearing again only this time I took it to a reputable mechanic I know. He replaced the one I destroyed and the other side too.
It's great to see a guy using good old fashioned hand tools and not grabbing the impact for everything. Looks like a substantial puller tool, much heavier than the Chinese ones, though they seem to work provided the going isn't too tough. Thanks.
Yeah, and you definitely shouldn't use any kind of impact tools with bearings. These sealed bearing units are extremely fragile when they are not tightened up yet. It is too easy to get minor damage on them which only unfolds after a month or year - damaged bearing might seem good some time after installation. So while impact driver is no-no, it was also refreshing to see the job getting done without hydraulic press - which is the modern usual professional way to do it.
Thank you for the video. I was able to replace both my rear bearings on my 2001 Clk55 Mercedes Benz because of it. I followed your instructions step by step.
Wow bro. Wish I saw this earlier. Did this exact job on my 05 Honda Civic (passenger front) and the way you used the tool makes way more sense than how I used it. Love you video man. Will definitely use it for future reference.
Procedure worked great for a 2005 Mazda MPV front wheel bearing. Thank you so much!! The most challenging part was pressing out the bearing - very stuck. Used Liquid Wrench spray to help free it. Also had to drop the control arm to get it to re-install.
You Did Really Well! Good sense of humor bro and I appreciate you leaving the money shot in there. I agree absolutely on the freezer time, why not make it easier?
Thank you. I hear ya, mate. I was in the highlands Nov and Dec last year, drove a 2003 Honda Jazz which I enjoyed driving around Isle of Skye. Near the end of Dec, I swapped out the tyres to winter ones because we had a lot of snow early. Got a "front row seat" view of what you're referring to. I'm glad I didn't have to work on that car.
Thank you, and thanks for pointing out about the seals. The replacement bearing is a Timken factory-sealed wheel bearing assembly (part no. WB000028), so there was no need to worry about seals, and grease. You can see the seal of the old bearing at 3:27 stuck in the hub, and then again momentarily at 3:39, right before I ripped it out (off-camera). A few seconds later, when I'm chiselling out the race, the seal is no longer there.
Good video, I would recommend usin a 1/2" drive ratchet with about a 3/4 galvanized stell pipe about 12 to eighteen inches long to both remove and tighten the bearing with the bearing tool. Place the end of the ratchet into the pipe. It makes a great lever when you need to apply a lot of torque without using an impact gun.
Amazing video, followed it exactly and it was extremely easy. Hardest part was getting the damn retaining clip back in only because I have junk pliers, but wasn't too bad.
Thank you for this video! My mom just purchased a Mazda 5 that has a "abs tone ring missing tooth" code and I wasn't sure if the ABS ring was supposed to be on the axle or if it was a part of the bearing. you solved my problem!
I'm assuming that you are referring to using the inner race of the new bearing as the anchor for pressing hub in. Thank you for bringing it up, it's a good point and something to be cautious about. Here's my take on it. To be clear, I'm no mechanic or engineer, so I could be wrong about this: When pressing the bearings itsef, the pressure is applied against the outer race, so there is no pressure applied to the balls or rollers of the bearing even when it bottoms out. On the other hand, when I am pressing the hub, I'm putting the anchor nut against the inner inside race, while the hub (hub flange) is pushing against the inner race on the other side. I imagine that in between, the bearing balls or rollers are "feeling" or withstanding that torque. The balls and races are engineered to withstand a lot of pressure, so I think that it can take it, specially since the hub goes in a lot easier, not as much torque needed compared to pressing the wheel bearing assembly. The problem is when it bottoms out, and this is a point against using an impact wrench. When I am using a hand wrench (not impact), I can feel it bottom out and I just stop and it's done. Besides, my puny arms cannot apply that much torque up to a level that might surpass the pressure that wheel bearings are designed to tolerate. But a powerful impact wrench might. And it usually manages to give several hammer blows after it bottoms out before the trigger is released.
12:33 - why cant you just find a plate/step washer that fits to the rear side of the knuckle arm itself? or the plate/step washer is not that high then, to reach the inner race at the same time? or that would move both inner races too much to the inner side and will break something? some cars wont even have a push-in type bearing in the first place tho...
Good question. If we use a step washer that is braced against the knuckle, I think the hub flange will push the inner bearing race out of the bearing body. Kind of like the way the bearing race came off with the old hub when it was pulled out. There's not a lot that holds the inner bearing races in place, it relies on the axle and axle nut to keep the hub in place. But you are correct, some cars have different wheel bearing configurations.
@@JTapia512 thanks for the comfirmation. I wondered why you couldn't just brace against the knuckle. There's a few other comments about how they screwed up by using the outer race. Based on that I was sure knuckle was wrong too. Obviously the pressure as you push the hub inward is on the inner race, so it makes sense to brace that.
Excellent video! what did you say at 9:35 just before you say "there's the side that's magnetic?" bearings in freezer is a good idea. When I first started working on my motorcycle back in the early 80's I would put the valve guides in the feezer and bake the cylinder head in the oven before installing them with a drift. I am looking at doing innner and probably outer tie rod ends on passenger side of 07 Mazda 3 along with the wheel bearing. I also would rent both bearing puller tool and tie rod tool off local store.
@@tmo6134 Different subject , same car. Do you know if there is a torque spec for the inner tie rod? some people say no. Also when loosening inner tie rod is it important to have the wheel turned proper way to fully support when your trying to break inner tie rod free? so as not to side load the steering rack shaft? thanks
Sorry, I don't know the torque specs for the tie rods. When I replaced mine, I used a clamp-type tool to loosen it, and then I just tightened the new one by feel. I did not retract the shaft but was very careful. If I had a crowfoot that lets you get in there with the steering shaft retracted all the way, I would have preferred it. I'm probably not being helpful to you right now, haha
Just did a passenger side bearing today. Canadian Tire has an excellent kit for this puropse. Unfortunately, 14 Canadian years made everything a special measure more difficult. Speed sensor would not come out. I do not think it need to come out to change the bearing which is frustrating as now I need a new sensor to make everything work perfectly. And the toughest parts was geeting the CV shaft into the hub after all of it. Thank you for the encouragement to do this on my own as it started out saving me nearly $300 but e bearing. now the sensor needs to be replaced. Likely, nets a saving of about $250 with an overstated estimate of $50 on th
Thanks for sharing your experience, glad to know that you were encouraged to try this on your own. I hope the satisfaction of doing it yourself makes up the mishap with the sensor.
@@jojiran I've read that you could pull the axle with the ball joint still on. I haven't done it like that. Seems really cramped. I had just replaced the ball joint and it comes off real easy so I just disconnect it.
Thanks for the tip. There seem to be two camps of thought about it. Some people say don't use lube because it's an interference fit. Others say that some lube helps. I've pressed bearings with and without lube, and to be honest I don't really know if the lube helped or not, though I don't think it hurts anything. Freezing (shrink fit) seems to help, at least in my experience, and I can only speak to that. Your mileage may vary.
Well, this was a nice video to watch on a break from my nightmare, lots of rust in my area... Next is the final step of cutting the race off the hub and then maybe I'll go get this tool so installation will be pleasant. I'll have to reassemble the knuckle onto the car first.... Nightmare! Edit: I can't complain, the bearing had 414k miles on it and only failed because the brake was dragging enough to turn the rotor into a taillight bright frisbee a few times requiring water before it flamed away the car.
@@martyjoseph9507 Looks like the "Check your brakes" warning light came on in your vehicle. I hope the tool works out for you. Best of luck, keep us posted.
PS using this tool only takes about a half an hour (if you have everything off) and that’s taking your time. Plus it helps to have another person with you makes it a lot easier.
I replaced my CV joints with new ones and am still getting a wump-wump-wump sound from the front. Could it be the wheel bearings? Gosh, I hope so as this looks doable. Im replacing all the ends and ball joints too. Biggest noise maker was the worn out end links
@@68pishta68 I had to chase a wump-wump sort of noise on an Infiniti car. It was the tires in my case, they were scalloped due to bad alignment. You could try rotating the tires (front to back) and see if the noise migrates to the back, or if you know somebody with compatible wheels, swap them. If it were the wheel bearings, see if the noise is more pronounced when driving on a curve, maybe the noise is louder on the outside-of-curve side. You could also see if there is play (jack up and then shake wheel), though sometimes worn bearings show no perceptible play. Hope those ideas helps, you may have tried them already. Best of luck to you, hope it gets sorted out.
wow this is literally the only video of a wheel bearing job I've ever seen where it was explained in a way that I actually understand everything you are doing. thanks this is very helpful
I was a shade tree mechanic for 25 years and never thought to use jack as torque monster!
Excellent video thank you!
That's thinking out of the Box.
I thought the same thing, 20 years of jumping on 4 ways and ratchet drives and now i hear about this 😂
Lol!! Last year I was forced to think of using my floorjack to loosen over torqued lugnuts on my nephews Dodge Ram. I knew I was going to hurt my back if I didn't brainstorm something. There were so tight my breaker bar even bent alittle!!
Great Video By The Way, Very Entertaining and Informative
This has to be one of the best how to videos I ever seen and I been a mechanic for a long long time.
Thank you for your kind words
I don't have a shop press anymore so I rented the tool $400. Does not works for odyssey spindle has no space for horse shoes .
Good to know. Thanks for sharing, Kelvin. If you are able to remove the hub using a slide hammer or something, does it look like the rest of the tool can still be used for the wheel bearing itself?
I agree 100%, Great Video.
@@tmo6134 I didn't have the time so I just took the spindle to the machine shop.
Freaking awesome narration. We need more UA-camrs like you that understand what it means to teach. Bravo!
This is actually the best video I’ve seen for replacing front wheel bearings. I give u first place. Well thought out…excellent commentary. Actually enjoyable. And all done without power tools.
Been watching a lot of hub pulling out videos. Most of them were enough to convince me not to attempt it. Your video was the first one with great video shots showing the details and the tool looked more convincing than the others. .. Thanks...
Its definitely scary at first, but after doing it it's not that bad. Just got to make sure everything goes in and comes out straight
Great video. Detailed but concise instruction, clear audio, some subtle humor, and excellent camera angles. Bravo! Well done , thank you.
Very easy "smoth operator". Probably the best and precise vision wise video on the subject. Being myself a Mazda 5 owner, boy! I know.
I can't say thank you enough. I did not know this tool existed let alone that it was a free rental from Oriely's. The last time i did this job was on an 05 Mazda 6 and ended up breaking a thumb and waisting a week of my life. This time I was done with each side in less than 4 hrs. Thank you
It was hard to find a video using this exact tool kit. Even harder to find one this simple to understand & follow! Thanks man!
This is PERFECT. Other videos I watched have the guy completely taking apart the entire strut assembly. This is brilliant! I definately saved a lot of time and hassle by watching this. Thanks!
What kund of "kit do i ask for?
I am right Now getting to getting ready to replace my rare well bearings breakfast also in the 6th escape what is the name of the kid the sky rented
Suppose to say my 2006 rear wheel bearing.on my Escape!
A few tips as I’ve done this on fusions/milans several times. USE a Milwaukee Fuel impact driver, it pushes the bearing/hub in/out in seconds. It’s ok to use it with this kit as it’s overbuilt to begin with.
Use vice grips to secure snap ring once you get it out of the groove and you’re prying it out so it doesn’t go flying.
Don’t waste $ on a new hub- cut the race off of the old one.
A bit of grease on things helps it slide in/out that much easier.
Rent the press kit from O’Reilly’s.
You DO NOT need to disconnect the ball joints to do it this way. You most likely won’t be able to anyways.
Take your time!
Best ever bearing replacing video on UA-cam. 🤗🤗
Thanks so much!!!!
For the past 2 days I’ve been trying to replace my driver side wheel bearing(2005 Honda Civic). Advance auto and AutoZone in my area did not rent out this tool. Not sure if Napa rented it out, but after watching your video I went straight to O’Reilly’s(I called first to make sure they had it in stock)It was $399.99 to rent, but you get it back all when you bring it back within 48 hours.
It feels so good to be back in my car! I had to take public transportation, got on the wrong train that was an express train out of the state, thankfully Amtrak stop the train (which had no stops for an hour) and allowed me to go back the direction that I came. It feels so good to be back in my car!
Truly dude this is one of the best videos on wheel bearing/hub replacement I’ve seen, if you can make videos of repairs at this level you should try to get some of that UA-cam money 🤑 and honestly it would help many people out as you have a very methodical approach and easy to follow
Great job, just bookmarked this video. Hands down the best at home bearing replacement video. All other's show much work & expensive tools. Removing the rotor is now the hardest part & not shown here. Every shop quoted $400 or more. Bearing sets as low as $20 online vs $80 & up at auto stores. If I can use the bearing tools, I'll pay the $80. Toyota wants about $300 for hub & bearing, understanding auto shop's charges. Plenty of labor, for $300 I will labor more than they will & buy OE bearings.
Wow great video. I am going to go back and watch parts again. I have watched other "hub and bearing press" videos and i like how you explain the process. I just paid 500 bucks to a shop to fix one front bearing and now i know i could have done it myself (and i have a lot more tools than you did it with). As others said if you do any auto DIY it is totally worth it to get a 1/2 inch impact wrench! Will save you from having to use that adjustable plumbing wrench and floor jack
Great video, just got this tool with no instructions. Your video is going to save my weekend, thank you!
"If the cold doesn't bother you anyway just let it go"😂 Hilarious. Thanks for a great and funny video.
Thank you for your calm attitude while explaining every step. Your video footage was one of the best .
Agreed with Arvind, Trey and Kelvin. I removed the ENTIRE steering knuckle from the car, which was time wasteful in retrospect because I thought I needed to use my HF Arbor Press. I will locate the tools you’ve used so I don’t have to waste that time in the future. Thanks again.
Good video! Liked the comment about the freezing of the bearing and just letting it go! Very funny. But what is really impressive is how clean your under carriage is! There is no rust and it looks like everything is sand blasted. Very nice. Super fun to work on clean cars.
Great video, thank you. Love your sense of humor! I am about to do this on my daughter's 2005 Accord and it will save me from buying a press.
This video is awesome man I appreciate it, i laughed when you were talking about freezing bearings and said "well if the cold doesn't bother you anyway" my daughter watched that frozen movie so much! I really appreciate you making this it's going to be vital, I also don't have a press but I do have the rental tool available, thanks again man!
Haha, glad you liked it
Awesome video! I used the same tool from oreillys to press out a wheel bearing on a Honda Accord a few years ago. Worked like a charm except I made one critical mistake when pressing the new hub in. I used the wrong spacer. Instead of using the one for the inner race on the backside of the bearing I used the one for the outter race. I could feel the bearing breaking apart before the hub was fully seated. Needless to say lesson learned.
Did you have to replace the bearing again? I did the same thing. Now the wheel bearing sounds worse than the old one.
Yes I had to replace the bearing again only this time I took it to a reputable mechanic I know. He replaced the one I destroyed and the other side too.
Sorry for the very late response. For some reason my phone is not alerting me when someone comments. Need to try and figure that out too.
It's great to see a guy using good old fashioned hand tools and not grabbing the impact for everything. Looks like a substantial puller tool, much heavier than the Chinese ones, though they seem to work provided the going isn't too tough. Thanks.
Yeah, and you definitely shouldn't use any kind of impact tools with bearings. These sealed bearing units are extremely fragile when they are not tightened up yet. It is too easy to get minor damage on them which only unfolds after a month or year - damaged bearing might seem good some time after installation.
So while impact driver is no-no, it was also refreshing to see the job getting done without hydraulic press - which is the modern usual professional way to do it.
Thank you for the video. I was able to replace both my rear bearings on my 2001 Clk55 Mercedes Benz because of it. I followed your instructions step by step.
How do you only have under 300 subscribers? Good content man. I subscribed.
Great detail on how to use the kit. It's such a struggle to get these spindles set up on a press. This is much easier.
This is the video I've been looking for, now i can buy the tool and do this myself.
Excellent video! I appreciated the extra camera angles for clarity😊👍
Wow bro. Wish I saw this earlier. Did this exact job on my 05 Honda Civic (passenger front) and the way you used the tool makes way more sense than how I used it. Love you video man. Will definitely use it for future reference.
Thanks for the video!! I appreciate all the advices you gave us to press the bearing. Just like freezing the bearing for easy installation.
Im gonna follow your video to do my front bearings on my Honda Accord, appreciate the video man, subscribed
Brilliant video :) thanks. Would never have thought to use a jack to remove the hub nut.
Thanks for this. One of the best on YT for this process.
Procedure worked great for a 2005 Mazda MPV front wheel bearing. Thank you so much!!
The most challenging part was pressing out the bearing - very stuck. Used Liquid Wrench spray to help free it. Also had to drop the control arm to get it to re-install.
Thanks for sharing your experience. Glad it worked!
great video, this clarified a lot of unknowns for me, Going to do this on a 2008 Mazda 3 tomorrow, I think it's the same process...
You Did Really Well! Good sense of humor bro and I appreciate you leaving the money shot in there. I agree absolutely on the freezer time, why not make it easier?
Thank you for the video, I rented the O'Reilly tool and your video was very helpful to understand how to use it.
Nice to see one not rusted in. Nothing but rust hear in Scotland.
Good vidy by the way.
Thank you. I hear ya, mate. I was in the highlands Nov and Dec last year, drove a 2003 Honda Jazz which I enjoyed driving around Isle of Skye. Near the end of Dec, I swapped out the tyres to winter ones because we had a lot of snow early. Got a "front row seat" view of what you're referring to. I'm glad I didn't have to work on that car.
@@tmo6134 Yes this is where cars go to die. The mechanics best friend is a gas torch. Glad you had a good visit.
hey great video appreciate it. this is the most proper one i have seen. thanks
Yup, good video on using this particular tool. It helped me greatly. Thanks
Well done 👍 explanation, easy to follow. Thanks from Canada 🇨🇦.
High quality video! Great work men!
Nice simple, clear instructions and a good camera angle. However, there was no mention of any wheel bearing seals being replaced?
Thank you, and thanks for pointing out about the seals. The replacement bearing is a Timken factory-sealed wheel bearing assembly (part no. WB000028), so there was no need to worry about seals, and grease. You can see the seal of the old bearing at 3:27 stuck in the hub, and then again momentarily at 3:39, right before I ripped it out (off-camera). A few seconds later, when I'm chiselling out the race, the seal is no longer there.
Good video, I would recommend usin a 1/2" drive ratchet with about a 3/4 galvanized stell pipe about 12 to eighteen inches long to both remove and tighten the bearing with the bearing tool. Place the end of the ratchet into the pipe. It makes a great lever when you need to apply a lot of torque without using an impact gun.
Outstanding Job Sir!! Thanks For Caring And Sharing!! Please Keep Up The Great Work!!!😊😊😊
Excellent job of explaining and showing how this is done!
Amazing video, followed it exactly and it was extremely easy. Hardest part was getting the damn retaining clip back in only because I have junk pliers, but wasn't too bad.
Thanks it was very clear and easy ... you are smart !!
Hey Man great simple video i hate doing press in bearings but now i don't
Subscribed and updated. Clear instructions and thanks for no background noise
This is a KICK-ASS Video- Thank you ! ! !
Oh man, thank you so much for showing me this tool. Super helpful.
Def came in handy I have a 09 Mazda 5 and I gotta replace my rear wheel bearing this def helps
nice work, old school muscle wins every time 💪💪
Nice clear shot of what needs to be done Thks
Great video. Clear concise explanation and superb vidiography.
Such a good video. I wish I knew about the jack trick sooner.
Thanks for the video! You made the job so much easier.
Thank you for this video! My mom just purchased a Mazda 5 that has a "abs tone ring missing tooth" code and I wasn't sure if the ABS ring was supposed to be on the axle or if it was a part of the bearing. you solved my problem!
Glad it helped!
I like the way you explained steps by step excellent
This is just a very well done video - thank you and keep making them!!!
amazing!! doing a wheel bearing jobs without professional tools
Great video just bought a 2006 mazda 5 and need to do this 👍
Great job, well explained and illustrated.
Great video, I will rent the tool too, thanks for share!
WAIT! i have seen other videos where they don't recommend using the inner race on the new bearing (12:47) because it could damage the new one. thanks
I'm assuming that you are referring to using the inner race of the new bearing as the anchor for pressing hub in. Thank you for bringing it up, it's a good point and something to be cautious about.
Here's my take on it. To be clear, I'm no mechanic or engineer, so I could be wrong about this:
When pressing the bearings itsef, the pressure is applied against the outer race, so there is no pressure applied to the balls or rollers of the bearing even when it bottoms out.
On the other hand, when I am pressing the hub, I'm putting the anchor nut against the inner inside race, while the hub (hub flange) is pushing against the inner race on the other side. I imagine that in between, the bearing balls or rollers are "feeling" or withstanding that torque. The balls and races are engineered to withstand a lot of pressure, so I think that it can take it, specially since the hub goes in a lot easier, not as much torque needed compared to pressing the wheel bearing assembly.
The problem is when it bottoms out, and this is a point against using an impact wrench. When I am using a hand wrench (not impact), I can feel it bottom out and I just stop and it's done. Besides, my puny arms cannot apply that much torque up to a level that might surpass the pressure that wheel bearings are designed to tolerate. But a powerful impact wrench might. And it usually manages to give several hammer blows after it bottoms out before the trigger is released.
Hello, nice video!!!! Do you remember inside diametre of half ring part of puller you used for this job?
Thanks for the comment, Martin. I'm sorry but I don't remember the diameter.
thanks for the great video I'll have to go and see if I can borrow a puller or else the acetylene torch is coming out.
We're you able to do drivers side without removing knuckle axel shaft same as passenger side ?
12:33 - why cant you just find a plate/step washer that fits to the rear side of the knuckle arm itself? or the plate/step washer is not that high then, to reach the inner race at the same time? or that would move both inner races too much to the inner side and will break something?
some cars wont even have a push-in type bearing in the first place tho...
Good question. If we use a step washer that is braced against the knuckle, I think the hub flange will push the inner bearing race out of the bearing body. Kind of like the way the bearing race came off with the old hub when it was pulled out. There's not a lot that holds the inner bearing races in place, it relies on the axle and axle nut to keep the hub in place. But you are correct, some cars have different wheel bearing configurations.
If you don't support the rear inner race when installing the hub it will separate the inner races. Lesson learned the hard way.
@@JTapia512 thanks for the comfirmation. I wondered why you couldn't just brace against the knuckle. There's a few other comments about how they screwed up by using the outer race. Based on that I was sure knuckle was wrong too. Obviously the pressure as you push the hub inward is on the inner race, so it makes sense to brace that.
Great explanation man this is a fantastic tutorial 👍
Excellent video! what did you say at 9:35 just before you say "there's the side that's magnetic?" bearings in freezer is a good idea. When I first started working on my motorcycle back in the early 80's I would put the valve guides in the feezer and bake the cylinder head in the oven before installing them with a drift. I am looking at doing innner and probably outer tie rod ends on passenger side of 07 Mazda 3 along with the wheel bearing. I also would rent both bearing puller tool and tie rod tool off local store.
Thank you! I'm saying, "For the Mazda 5, there's the side that's magnetic." Thanks for watching and for sharing your experience
@@tmo6134 Different subject , same car. Do you know if there is a torque spec for the inner tie rod? some people say no. Also when loosening inner tie rod is it important to have the wheel turned proper way to fully support when your trying to break inner tie rod free? so as not to side load the steering rack shaft? thanks
Sorry, I don't know the torque specs for the tie rods. When I replaced mine, I used a clamp-type tool to loosen it, and then I just tightened the new one by feel. I did not retract the shaft but was very careful. If I had a crowfoot that lets you get in there with the steering shaft retracted all the way, I would have preferred it. I'm probably not being helpful to you right now, haha
@@tmo6134what the name of the tool kit... Please
Wish I could give you more than one thumbs up, nice video.
Just did a passenger side bearing today. Canadian Tire has an excellent kit for this puropse. Unfortunately, 14 Canadian years made everything a special measure more difficult. Speed sensor would not come out. I do not think it need to come out to change the bearing which is frustrating as now I need a new sensor to make everything work perfectly. And the toughest parts was geeting the CV shaft into the hub after all of it. Thank you for the encouragement to do this on my own as it started out saving me nearly $300 but e bearing. now the sensor needs to be replaced. Likely, nets a saving of about $250 with an overstated estimate of $50 on th
Thanks for sharing your experience, glad to know that you were encouraged to try this on your own. I hope the satisfaction of doing it yourself makes up the mishap with the sensor.
Wow one of the best step by step, I would like see that tools using in a rusty hub. I want that tools where to buy it?
Try amazon. You might be able to rent it for free, more details in the video description.
Awesome video my friend you took ur time explaining how to use the tool also 💕👍job
Great video. Funny, helpful and great quality, thank you.
Great video explains a lot of questions I had
It’s a wonderful explanation detailed video thanks for sharing details. Where do I get that type of puller? What’s the specific name of the puller?
Good video! One question, aren’t there any seals for the bearing?
Thanks. For the Mazda 5, the replacement comes as sealed bearings
Thank you for the video… exactly what I was looking for.
Nicely detailed. I enjoyed it.
Keep it up
Excellent video. Thanks!
Thanks for the video .Did you have to remove the lower ball joint to pull the CV axle out? Any possibility of doing it with the lower ball joint on?
@@jojiran I've read that you could pull the axle with the ball joint still on. I haven't done it like that. Seems really cramped. I had just replaced the ball joint and it comes off real easy so I just disconnect it.
Nice video, next time before pressing bearing back into knuckle\hub use some lubricant, will help with the process...
Thanks for the tip. There seem to be two camps of thought about it. Some people say don't use lube because it's an interference fit. Others say that some lube helps. I've pressed bearings with and without lube, and to be honest I don't really know if the lube helped or not, though I don't think it hurts anything. Freezing (shrink fit) seems to help, at least in my experience, and I can only speak to that. Your mileage may vary.
Excellent video... congratulations
Great job! Thank you for sharing.
Quick work, nice Commentary
Well, this was a nice video to watch on a break from my nightmare, lots of rust in my area... Next is the final step of cutting the race off the hub and then maybe I'll go get this tool so installation will be pleasant. I'll have to reassemble the knuckle onto the car first.... Nightmare!
Edit: I can't complain, the bearing had 414k miles on it and only failed because the brake was dragging enough to turn the rotor into a taillight bright frisbee a few times requiring water before it flamed away the car.
@@martyjoseph9507 Looks like the "Check your brakes" warning light came on in your vehicle. I hope the tool works out for you. Best of luck, keep us posted.
PS using this tool only takes about a half an hour (if you have everything off) and that’s taking your time. Plus it helps to have another person with you makes it a lot easier.
I think you can disconnect the tie rod end just as long as you don't change the adjustment. You can pop it loose no problem it won't change anything.
Brilliant video 👍
Where to get this tool ? Never mind, you said it is O'Railley rental tool
Thanks for the video. 👍
I replaced my CV joints with new ones and am still getting a wump-wump-wump sound from the front. Could it be the wheel bearings? Gosh, I hope so as this looks doable. Im replacing all the ends and ball joints too. Biggest noise maker was the worn out end links
@@68pishta68 I had to chase a wump-wump sort of noise on an Infiniti car. It was the tires in my case, they were scalloped due to bad alignment. You could try rotating the tires (front to back) and see if the noise migrates to the back, or if you know somebody with compatible wheels, swap them. If it were the wheel bearings, see if the noise is more pronounced when driving on a curve, maybe the noise is louder on the outside-of-curve side. You could also see if there is play (jack up and then shake wheel), though sometimes worn bearings show no perceptible play. Hope those ideas helps, you may have tried them already. Best of luck to you, hope it gets sorted out.
great job thank you for the really good video
Wonderful video! Thank you very much !!!