Wow! I work alone in a family auto repair shop. I've struggled with this type of bearing for days in the past. Beating, slide hammer, soaking for days, taking the knuckle off, etc. I went to napa, got a grade 8, 1/2" bolt and nut, and got it out in less than 20 minutes. Thank you so much! Best tip I've seen in years!
Have been a Tech for 40 years in Omaha where they find new ways to dump more brine on the streets. I was blessed with a 13 explorer rear wheel bearing today and your technique worked great. Thanks for the tip, keep um coming!
I have been fighting the front hub assemblys on a 2009 Mercury Grand Marquis LS with 147000 miles for 2 days, and now I am headed to get 1/2 bolt and nut. Thank you, Mr. O for helping a neighbor in Maine keep on keeping on, brother.
I bet the factory service manual says, "Remove bearing assembly from steering knuckle." Videos that show mechanics just pulling them out like it's no big deal are so useless. This one's great!
Yeah. Maybe Cali, Arizona, Nevada, New Mexico, Texas you might do that. In Europe Southern Spain or Italy. Here in England, no chance. I have learned a lot from Eric about dealing with rust.
@@zoidberg444 YAAAS! && AL6+ RusT is aNoTheR ANiMAL ALToGeTheR!! ALMosT as BAD as YeR LYMeY MeTRiC FASTeNeR SiZeS...oVeR TheRe!! HoWeveR S.I. MeTRiC aLthough a BiATch To AFFoRD and eSTiMATe by eYe at FiRSt (MANDAToRy~CoNVeRSioN)(in CANADA's) YeT is is CoNseCuTiVe. OLe iNCh-MeASuRe WRenCheS,..I sTiLL cLinG To and LOVE! NoTwiThsTANDinG cheAP-iMPoRT ALLoYs wiTh Too Muchey AL6+ MAKeY me siCK! ...I eVeN hATe TheiR sMeLL! SMeLLs dusTy-white aLuMiNuM-RusTy!... NoW a Good aLuMiNuM RusT PeNeTRANT...? ThAT cud be a hiT!
Not to mention that the time allotment for the job doesn't probably consider a half hour to a full hour of work to remove a really stubborn one. So much for flat rate.
This saved me so much time, was whacking away at the wheel bearing on my 14 explorer with an 8lb sledge and it wasnt moving an inch (living in Newfoundland, Canada salt is everywhere), called a local shop told me it had to be pressed out then i seen this video got it started with the bolts got a pry bar behind it whacked it a half dozen times and out she came. Awesome job going to have to buy some SMA merch now so you get your cut.
One day of screwing bolts and hammering I managed to pull out the hub, the bearing is still fried. Fun times, probably will have to remove the whole housing to hammer it from the other side.
They aren't that bad iv done em I about 40 mins with a 5lb hammer. I live in Buffalo NY so I'm not stranger to electrolysis. Just have to be prepared to swing until your arms hurt then do it again LOL
@@ryanrohauer5940 - You are a lucky person if you did it in 40 mins on this type of vehicle. Even in the South these vehicles are a pain to do the rear hubs.
@@meabob i worked at a ford dealer for a few years did plenty of them. the Taurus was the same story on the rear hubs seen alot of them too. the first couple were a bitch and kicked my ass for sure. but you get em down i can do em in 40mins to an hour .if i feel like makin money that day haha IIRC they only paid a bit over an hour labor warranty that is. customer pay was just shy of 2 hrs i think
Just used this method today on my very rusty 2010 Lincoln MKT, was a lot of work with no air tools, but what a feeling when it finally popped off!! Thanks Eric!
Thanks so much for making this video! After hammer away for 40 minutes on my 04 XJ8 front two wheel bearings. I found this video.. omg it worked !! 5 min later and both were out .. thank you again. Great great tip.
Eric we have struggled removing this type of wheel bearing on Audi’s & Volkswagen’s for years. This is the 2nd time today that something so simple was just never seen by me. Tips like this is why I for one think you are the man 🙏🙏👍👍
On most European cars with this type of hub. And, which BTW don't have studs. The method is even simpler. Just thread a bolt of suitable length on the hole. Done! Better yet, two bolts on opposing sides. ;-)
@@crpth1 , 100%, I just changed the bearing on my 16 xc60. Tried every method I could find and it wouldn't budge.! Then I thought to turn the lugnuts around and screw that beast out! I for sure thought I would snap one but I'll be damn if it didn't slide right out!
I was in the auto repair business for 40 years, and this is an excellent tip. I was thinking as I was watching you, that you could have simply popped 2 studs out and saved yourself a lot of time, and then you mentioned that idea too. If you only have one nut and bolt handy, then your method will work nicely as you demonstrated. Either way, you taught me something new, and I have a Freestar, so if I have to do this in my driveway, this will be a good tip to remember. Thanks.
Did mine on a 2007 Lincoln Navigator in the drive way last week,cold in Canada. Tried beating it out,no luck did it exactly like this guy out in ten minutes. Best trick ever.Thanks bro.
I love out of box thinking to solve these types of problems. I have to replace my rear left wheel bearing on my 2014 Explorer and I will trying this technique and update the results here when I do. One of the most useful videos I have seen in a long time!
As a man that married a woman from right down the road (Campbell/Sovona) from you and brought her to Virginia, I must say you bring her a taste of home. Every time I play your videos she perks up because you "sound like home." 😅
YOU ARE THE MAN! I've been beating on this hub for two hours trying to break it loose and your trick took 45 minutes. Thank you for sharing! I'll keep this trick in my back pocket now. 👍
Yep, I actually used this not too long ago. I searched the UA-cam for ideas on how to remove a stuck wheel bearing and and this method came up. It worked out real well!
I recently removed the rear wheel bearings on a Ford Flex with this method. Saved me hours of physical abuse with a sledge hammer. They were both off in a few minutes without breaking a sweat. Thanks SMA. Appreciate everything you share.
I owe you a cold one man. I'm at work today with a Ford explorer, both rear wheel bearing growling. I beat the living snot out of it and all of a sudden I thought to myself "didn't I see buddy do this car with a press idea last week or week before" quickly I skipped ahead to the bolt through the hub and went ohhhh yaaaaaaaa. Worked like a charm man. Thank you so much. I've munched 3 grade 8 bolts so far and still gotta do the other bloody side. Customer is upset it's taking so long but that's the way she goes! 6pm now and we close at 9pm gonna be close.
Wanted to say thanks for this video. I’ve been watching for a long time. Neighbor had been working on a wheel bearing all day, beating it with a hammer, slide hammer, air hammer (not big nasty sized) and nothing. I said south main had a video doing this I could swear. 20-30 min later it was off.
Nice work Eric, thank heaven I don't own a ford! I will do the same method for my 05 Silverado 4x4 on the front end. I do love your instructional videos and watch you in action whenever I want to refresh my methods before doing repairs on my truck. Thanks, Eric!
I just used this trick yesterday, what a time saver! After a half hour of beating and getting nowhere, I remembered seeing you do this. I didn't have a grade 8 bolt though, so I torqued it and hammered and re-torqued which worked excellent! I had both sides off in under 10 minutes.
@@shellysdopevids6988 Not all steel/bolts are the same, some are stronger than others. You'll find videos on here that explains the markings on the head of bolts, much better than I could in the comments section.
@@NoSuffix I mean I tightened it up basically until it stopped, whacked the bearing with a hammer which caused it to move a little and I tightened it more. I repeated this until the bearing pulled from the knuckle.
Thank you so much ! Your video saved part of my vacation in Orlando.The hardest part was not to remove the hub/bearing,it was to find a grade 8 bolts.I bought $200 worth of manual had tools and changed it with the help of my brother,straight in the parking lot of the resort without making any noise.Almost….
Just took one of an Dodge 2500 that was on since 1999 and still fine but needed to change ball joints. Tried the power steering trick, the hub buster tool, PB blaster, impact method, torch heat, and 15 ton hydraulic puller and beat on it. Got nothing! Wouldn't budge. Even the bolt press trick. Ended up cutting the ball joints off with an Sawzall blade between axle ears and knuckle. Now I'm able to work on it and press the ball joint pieces out. The hub bearing was fine before attempting to remove it but now it's trashed being that it was rust welded within the knuckle housing. At least I got it off and will be putting an new one on after cleaning the housing up and applying antiseize. Surprisingly the front u-joint was also still good after 23 yrs and 320k miles. That's amazing.
Thanks Eric. This method is a life saver. I used it on my girlfriends 2014 Chevy Impala LT. Hit it with a hammer a couple times, did nothing so i was like nope grab a bolt and a nut. Less than 5 mins bearing/ hub assembly was out.
Neat headache saving trick! However it would appear that you could also remove a second stud and use two longer bolts and go at them intermittently until the whole bearing just pops out of the knuckle
I just completed this operation over the weekend. What i thought would be a few hours, literally turned into the weekend. Beating, hammering, air hammering, slide hammering, and porta-power all proved worthless. It wasn't this particular video but one of the "shorts" the I saw the bolt trick. 13th trip to town and $10 worth of hardware won the war. I don't know who to give proper credit to for this fine nugget of knowledge, but someone deserves an all-over ass kissing for sharing this. On behalf of numerous driveway mechanics, thank you!
Im a home driveway DIY tinkerer and have been trying to get the rear hubs off my 2001 Mercedes SLK for months! All I need to do is to change the back plates as they are so rusty they are falling apart and as they hold the handbrake shoes they need replacing. Easy job I thought, already done the fronts but the rear! I've been beating on it for about 9 months on and off Ive tried lide hammers, I've tried air hammers, I've tried hub pullers (it bent a 7mm thick steal plate I made a puller out of!) and was about to give up and take it to a garage to have it done by them at stupidly large price when I saw this video. I know the video is a year old at this point but I dont know how I missed it as I watch all your videos Eric and have learned so much. keep on videoing and giving guys like me tips so we can DIY it. I will be trying this once the snow clears and the temperature climbs above 0C lol. We rarely get snow this close to xmas here in the South East UK and now im impatient to try this lol.
I just so happen to have the exact same vehicle as in the video, 2013 Ford Explorer. I was about to give up and call a tow to take my vehicle to the mechanic when I found your video. Worked like a charm. I did the same thing except I had no air tools or impact driver. Just a socket and breaker bar. I used the bolt at approx 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock. Took some time but eventually came out. Once you see what is inside you realize why it was so hard to get out. Thanks for making this video
“Get a life cause it really doesn’t matter”. That was good I used this method years ago on a 2002 sienna rear bearings. Works great. I thought i was the first to think of this method. 😡
I used it on a Lincoln LS (except I removed three studs and put three bolts in at the same time). Posted it to an Lincoln forum and that;s how everyone on that list did it. Thought I was the first to think of it.
The "Last chance" ( I believe they are called in one of his later vids) work great! I grease the bolts before I run them in for a little less friction. I've done 3 or 4 in the last few weeks with no assistant and I have had no trouble at all. Saves time even though the bolts are definitely a wear part. I will gladly pay a couple of bucks for the bolts to save myself hours of labor.
Awesome trick. My Dad taught me a similar trick for removing rotors that are rust welded on. Same exact process with bolt and nut and since we had a large hole using the caliper bracket hole, we also used a washer. Just keep rotating the rotor until all the rust is broken free all the way around and it comes off like magic.
Good job man, thinking outside the box gets it done every time. I am an industrial mechanic and we encounter ridiculous situations similar to this fairly often. I also work on heavy trucks, they are stupid to work on. If you can’t think, you are beaten.
So.. I've been turning wrench for 21 years. I'm going to try this... done everything else and have come to the conclusion that it's faster to pull the knuckle off and use the press to pop it out... but after seeing this I will definitely try it... and if it's not faster then pulling the knuckle. I WILL be commenting again lol. Thanks for the tip!
Just did this today after watching your video. I have a 2013 explorer xlt and this method is legit. I had to use washers with my bolt but it came off after going back and forth from each side a couple times. I didn't have an air chisel so after I had quite some separation I took a hammer and a chisel between the bearing and knuckle.
@@lanenorthcutt349 actually using copper season cream by permatex will ensure that it will come off very easily the next time as long as those services are clean.
@@g.reyner1868 because the copper seizing cream has a much higher melting point and with the copper type it will guarantee it will break free the next time it needs repair
That was awesome, I learn something every video, and I thought you were an electrical genius only. This is what I would call dissimilar metal corrosion, steel mated to aluminum with no anti seize applied, I always coat parts before assembly, thank you soo much for sharing your knowledge without cursing like a sailor, LOL.
Glad guys are putting their tid bits of helping knowledge out here for people to learn My uncle has a shop Semi /Diesel trucks and local fire departments vechicles. Many times when the employees come by police and fire departments with personal vechicles these problems are quite common. Two bolts /nut with some washers most times do the trick. The air chisels are always a good idea to have standing by. Or just several chisels and a 4 pound maul hammer will eventually pop it. Good video for do it yourself and safety first.
Curious to know but would thick (1/8”) aluminum shims prevent the 1/2” bolt from leaving marks in the bearing face? Pretty awesome method to get the bearing off regardless! Way to go Mr.O!
use large thick washers or a chunk of thick steel bar radius ground on end(3/16" +). either way would probably need a helper/third arm :) but yes it would leave virtually no trace at all, not that the marks cannot be flattened with file or grinder. pretty much, as long as it hasn't staked in the bearing bore hole locking the hub tighter or making the new not fit (again file/grinder will fix) :)
@@ohboy2592 I understand what Eric was saying and agree with his actions he took. I was thinking out loud in case any others try to tackle these bearings.
Love the fact it separates the backing plate from the hub at the same time. That is usually just as difficult too. Been using this method for front hubs but great idea on the back.
"They'll get the whole knuckle so you don't gotta piss with it" oh ya and deal with all the rotten nuts and bolts that hold em on then deal with the smoked alignment adjustments. na I'm good I'll do the bearing. As a rust belt mechanic if suspention/chassis components ain't broke don't touch it, don't look at it, don't even think about it
Southern WI here and I know what you're talking about with pretty much every vehicle, especially ford's but I guess I've lucked out so far on every one of these things I've done. Had a few month stretch last year where I was seeing these things and pulled the knuckle every time. My nightmare for rotted/seized rear suspension is BMW, Subaru, and Honda.
@@South_0f_Heaven_ thats what they do now... they have the real Tech train the rookies and then let the real Tech go...and keep the lazy guy so they can pay them less...Most Techs these days are just parts changers... if they had to diagnose something they fail.
I just did the front hub bearing on 2013 Explorer. Tried every method but this one to get them out. Finally got them off by taking the knuckle off and using a 20-ton press. I have to do the back ones too. I'm definitely going to try this before the press. Thanks.
Used this trick yesterday for my first ever wheel bearing replacement. Worked great! Things I had trouble with... 1. Passenger rear bearing - the back bottom bolt for the bearing was difficult to get to for what I had. 2. Didn't get grade 8 bolts from the start for this. Chewed through the crap ones in about 5 seconds. Couldn't back it out as the treads stripped. Had to cut it off. 3. I used a larger nut as a spacer when I bottom out the bolt. Worked great. 4. The bearing was so seized in there I started to chew through the grade 8 bolts as well. 5. Took about 5 hours...complete newbie. 6. Lastly and most surprising...I was able to do it with dropping only 1 F bomb. This was from habit and not aggravation. Managed it all with no air hammer. Just and impact, grinder, and hand tools. Thanks for the life saving post!!!
A good tech tip to help in this situation. Thanks for passing it on, Eric. I'll keep this tip in my back pocket too, maybe use it in another conundrum of this sort.
We put man on the moon in July 1969 and this is what today’s vehicle engineers are delivering us. Thank god for common sense trouble shooting mechanics.
It's not the engineers fault... it's the purchase department of the manufacturers telling their suppliers that the whole part mustn't cost more than $2.47 and must reduce in price 3% every year for 5 years, or they won't buy it. Then you get what they pay for. Somebody makes it cheaper and it dissolves in rust in 5 years? Awesome! Steady spare part revenue and happy dealers!
It was the no hearing protection that got me. As someone with long term tinnitus problems (25 years or so), I just like to see people look after their hearing better.
Looks like someone hasn't had the rear toe link recall completed on their 2013 ford explorer. At 7:31 you can see that the old welded style are still installed. Eric, I'm in CT. Love your channel. I did 21 years in the Navy as a diesel mechanic and refrigeration and do all of my own vehicle maintenance. I don't have half the confidence you do. You are truly inspiring. Take care.
I've watched your procedures in the past and your one of the best and knowledgeable on utube..... for me getting a stuck wheel bearing out of knuckle, I leave 2 bolts in the wheel bearing loose and use the long hammer air hammer on the back side and push bearing out on the bolts threaded in the bearing.... never had one that wouldn't come out.
Great tip and advice! My method is a lot easier though. I drop it off at my mechanic's place and he calls me when it's finished. I don't even feel slightly frustrated when the job is done!
@@sirsweetness8332 I scheduled an alignment, they halted cuz wheel bearing was bad. Here's your $800 estimate. Hmm ok went home ordered a Moog for $170 spent about 2hrs changing it. $630 saved for 2hrs of work.
Industrial pulley and sprocket sheaves can be separated this way with just two or three quarter inch bolts and a hand wrench. The key is to apply even pressure with each bolt. If you're pulling one-sided like in this video, it can be almost, if not completely, impossible to separate them.
I just used this on a couple Toyota wheel bearings. Wirked great. To keep from damaging the tin shield, I used a piece of 1/8" steel plate I had laying around to protect it.
Thanks for this! I'm an apprentice tech, and some techs in my shop were stuck trying to get a bearing off on a jeep commander. I asked them try something and used this trick and got it off easy as and they were impressed :)
I know this video is a bit old but I am a subscriber and just wanted to day Thank you!! I was beating the snot.out of a rear bearing on a 2015 traverse and this worked like a charm, literally 3 or 4 minutes and it was out. Thank you for taking the time to film, edit and post this content. You sir help so many people and I for 1 greatly appreciate your effort, your time and knowledge....thank you Eric.
I’ve been doing it this way for years I used to bolts to push and I got little half-inch pieces of steel beat into a spoon shape that I push off of instead of pushing off the aluminum knuckle leaves no marks
I was gonna say, if those pecker tracks give you heartburn, put a little piece of metal in between there for the bolt end to spin on. Most anything metal that fits in the spot would probably do the trick.
I've used your method in the past..... Eric , I don't think there is anything you can't do , you really are "the man" Oxidation sealed in like that around the bearing will seal it beyond tight ! Joe... Navy veteran..
I would have to make an appointment with the psychiatrist first to get meds before I attempt changing the bearings myself. This is one of the things I’d rather pay to get it done. You almost make everything look too easy. 👍 🇺🇸
That's crazy. I just took mine off on both sides and had no trouble at all. They are original and have been on the truck for 22 years. I also live in the south so we don't have crazy rust like y'all do up there.
He came pretty close though didnt he. I was thinking "This is an accident waiting to happen" as they were using the air chisels on it! So I'm glad they didn't get hurt cuz that surely would've happened to me with my womderful Luck.🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@anthonydefreitas6006 I once arm wrestled a weight lifter when I was stationed in Korea and beat him and I weighed all of about 175 pounds back then. It's a good thing we were both drunk at the time or he would've squashed me like an ant!🤣🤣🤣🤣
I have used this method with considerable success. However, one problem that can occur is if the axel shaft has rusted into the hub splines, then you can't just force the hub away from the knuck because you will separate the u-joints in the axel shaft. What I do it, as was done here, is break the seal with the bolt trick, then use a 3 jaw puller on it that centers on the axel shaft. I also have a set for my press that works really well for separating the knuck and the hub if I feel I have to remove the entire knuckle to separate them. Many dust plate are also riveted, so I will remove them and use SS fittings to reinstall. on When I put bearing hubs and knuckles together I always use an anti seize of some sort at assembly time. The same goes for the backside of the rotors and also on the front side around the hub center and where the wheel will set. All of this can be done with only one person without any help.
I have done this a couple of times, but I just did one of these today and I didn't remember this. Sometimes I am a bit dense. Great video. Thanks for reminding me!
Awesome video, I will definitely remember this trick! They are a real PITA. Your right even if you can get a puller through there(no axle going through hub) the pullers don’t work. No matter what you gonna damage that rotor shield
I took the knuckle off and took the whole assembly down to my local fire station. They were more than willing to try their hydraulic spreaders on it. There’s no words to describe the explosion when they separated. The hub flew 20’ one way. The knuckle 20’ the other. Scared everyone.
Bearings on a Prius are the exact same way as this. I’ve wasted a lot of time beating these given I had no access to an air hammer. Using the bolt/press method is the only way of getting these boogers off. Excellent tip!
This is exactly the way I do it. Have had to replace both rear bearings on my wife's 2016 Explorer. I knock out 2 studs and use 2 bolts and it makes it go a little quicker. Love that Seafoam too. I also use a little heat with my torch and some encouragement with a small sledge and they come right out. Great video!
I had one of these knuckles in the press one time and man when that puppy finally let go the entire press jumped right off the ground violently and I about had a heart attack.
We MIGHT be working on something up this alley
Ohhhh 😳
@@SouthMainAuto But I don't see why, a simple bolt and nut work a treat!
@@AstroTools might have to send Eric a little something, something, let him give it a test run :)
@@AstroTools I can see it now. A specialty bolt with a swivel foot to prevent damage to the knuckle ❤️ Clearing room in the box as we speak.
stop teasing us!
been in this trade for 30 years now and not once have I thought about doing it this way. prove that you are never too old to learn new ways 👍
Everyday is a school day
Nah, your claim you prove it.
Jay Why, what took you so long to learn this? I knew such tricks long ago.
I would use a good heavy slide hammer.
Greatings from Bavaria/ Germany
Use a slide hammer
Wow! I work alone in a family auto repair shop. I've struggled with this type of bearing for days in the past. Beating, slide hammer, soaking for days, taking the knuckle off, etc. I went to napa, got a grade 8, 1/2" bolt and nut, and got it out in less than 20 minutes. Thank you so much! Best tip I've seen in years!
UA-cam is THE single most hated website by dealerships because of tips like these!
Have been a Tech for 40 years in Omaha where they find new ways to dump more brine on the streets. I was blessed with a 13 explorer rear wheel bearing today and your technique worked great. Thanks for the tip, keep um coming!
I have been fighting the front hub assemblys on a 2009 Mercury Grand Marquis LS with 147000 miles for 2 days, and now I am headed to get 1/2 bolt and nut.
Thank you, Mr. O for helping a neighbor in Maine keep on keeping on, brother.
I bet the factory service manual says, "Remove bearing assembly from steering knuckle." Videos that show mechanics just pulling them out like it's no big deal are so useless. This one's great!
More like, "Slide bearing assembly out fully intact from the steering knuckle and don't scratch a thing". As IF we garage monkeys never use a hammer!
Yeah. Maybe Cali, Arizona, Nevada, New Mexico, Texas you might do that. In Europe Southern Spain or Italy.
Here in England, no chance. I have learned a lot from Eric about dealing with rust.
@@zoidberg444 YAAAS! && AL6+ RusT is aNoTheR ANiMAL ALToGeTheR!!
ALMosT as BAD as YeR LYMeY MeTRiC FASTeNeR SiZeS...oVeR TheRe!!
HoWeveR S.I. MeTRiC aLthough a BiATch To AFFoRD and eSTiMATe by eYe at FiRSt (MANDAToRy~CoNVeRSioN)(in CANADA's) YeT is is CoNseCuTiVe. OLe iNCh-MeASuRe WRenCheS,..I sTiLL cLinG To and LOVE!
NoTwiThsTANDinG cheAP-iMPoRT ALLoYs wiTh Too Muchey AL6+ MAKeY me siCK!
...I eVeN hATe TheiR sMeLL! SMeLLs dusTy-white aLuMiNuM-RusTy!...
NoW a Good aLuMiNuM RusT PeNeTRANT...? ThAT cud be a hiT!
There's times you treat it like pos it is.
Not to mention that the time allotment for the job doesn't probably consider
a half hour to a full hour of work to remove a really stubborn one. So much for flat rate.
This saved me so much time, was whacking away at the wheel bearing on my 14 explorer with an 8lb sledge and it wasnt moving an inch (living in Newfoundland, Canada salt is everywhere), called a local shop told me it had to be pressed out then i seen this video got it started with the bolts got a pry bar behind it whacked it a half dozen times and out she came. Awesome job going to have to buy some SMA merch now so you get your cut.
One day of screwing bolts and hammering I managed to pull out the hub, the bearing is still fried. Fun times, probably will have to remove the whole housing to hammer it from the other side.
Come to think of it, I don't wear caps but could buy a nice Cardigan or dicky with plaid socks! lol
Leave it to Eric o to make this look easy. I have seen people spend half a day just to do one of these bearings. Very well done.
Almost as much work as the older pressed on ones :lol:
They aren't that bad iv done em I about 40 mins with a 5lb hammer. I live in Buffalo NY so I'm not stranger to electrolysis. Just have to be prepared to swing until your arms hurt then do it again LOL
@@ryanrohauer5940 - You are a lucky person if you did it in 40 mins on this type of vehicle. Even in the South these vehicles are a pain to do the rear hubs.
@@meabob i worked at a ford dealer for a few years did plenty of them. the Taurus was the same story on the rear hubs seen alot of them too. the first couple were a bitch and kicked my ass for sure. but you get em down i can do em in 40mins to an hour .if i feel like makin money that day haha IIRC they only paid a bit over an hour labor warranty that is. customer pay was just shy of 2 hrs i think
@@ryanrohauer5940
I just did one on a subaru in about an hr with the drive test
Just used this method today on my very rusty 2010 Lincoln MKT, was a lot of work with no air tools, but what a feeling when it finally popped off!! Thanks Eric!
Glad it helped
Thanks so much for making this video! After hammer away for 40 minutes on my 04 XJ8 front two wheel bearings. I found this video.. omg it worked !! 5 min later and both were out .. thank you again. Great great tip.
Eric we have struggled removing this type of wheel bearing on Audi’s & Volkswagen’s for years. This is the 2nd time today that something so simple was just never seen by me. Tips like this is why I for one think you are the man 🙏🙏👍👍
On most European cars with this type of hub. And, which BTW don't have studs. The method is even simpler. Just thread a bolt of suitable length on the hole. Done!
Better yet, two bolts on opposing sides. ;-)
@@crpth1 That's what these holes were for!
I remember them from 60 years ago,when I started work as an apprentice Fitter!
@@crpth1 , 100%, I just changed the bearing on my 16 xc60. Tried every method I could find and it wouldn't budge.! Then I thought to turn the lugnuts around and screw that beast out! I for sure thought I would snap one but I'll be damn if it didn't slide right out!
Nothing short of amazing 🤩
I have a late 90’s gm truck and had to use an Acetylene torch and chisels together before the corrosion gave.
I was in the auto repair business for 40 years, and this is an excellent tip. I was thinking as I was watching you, that you could have simply popped 2 studs out and saved yourself a lot of time, and then you mentioned that idea too. If you only have one nut and bolt handy, then your method will work nicely as you demonstrated.
Either way, you taught me something new, and I have a Freestar, so if I have to do this in my driveway, this will be a good tip to remember. Thanks.
Like Grandpa always said "You learn something old every day." Because it's only new to you.
Did mine on a 2007 Lincoln Navigator in the drive way last week,cold in Canada. Tried beating it out,no luck did it exactly like this guy out in ten minutes. Best trick ever.Thanks bro.
I love out of box thinking to solve these types of problems. I have to replace my rear left wheel bearing on my 2014 Explorer and I will trying this technique and update the results here when I do. One of the most useful videos I have seen in a long time!
Brutally honest and then dosent want to be a jerk. Hey, sometimes people need the truth!!! That backing plate is just fine with a dent or 3
It's gonna be gone by the time the cars like 15 years old...won't matter much here xd
what's a backing plate? Mine rotted off years ago, lol
As a man that married a woman from right down the road (Campbell/Sovona) from you and brought her to Virginia, I must say you bring her a taste of home. Every time I play your videos she perks up because you "sound like home." 😅
Just used this trick today on a 2015 Explorer and it worked perfectly, saved a lot of time 👌
GooD SoN!
@@c.l.vanhorne117 Dad??
About to do my 2015 explorer again after a year. Won't be buying cheap parts again no time soon.
This is the only video that i found on the internet that actually shows something that works EFFORTLESSLY. THANK YOU!
YOU ARE THE MAN! I've been beating on this hub for two hours trying to break it loose and your trick took 45 minutes. Thank you for sharing! I'll keep this trick in my back pocket now. 👍
Yep, I actually used this not too long ago. I searched the UA-cam for ideas on how to remove a stuck wheel bearing and and this method came up. It worked out real well!
Videos like this make me appreciate living in FL. I will never complain again..
Ya i live in Canada and you have no idea how much we gotta break out the big hammer for rust and corrosion
@@sendit1158 Every time I fix something on my wife's 2000 Saturn, it loses 5lbs of rust!
Depends on how close you live to the coast but the salt in the air can cause pretty gnarly damage too.
What happened to the "Brake Clean" sound effect.
It's on vacation this week.
Maybe he's stuck with the California-grade Brakleen that doesn't have the sound effect.
@@jaymzx0 Caution: The State of California has determined that everything causes cancer.
Sound effects seem to have disappeared..brake clean..fluid film...along with SMA stickers😎
Missing the DAWG music
I recently removed the rear wheel bearings on a Ford Flex with this method. Saved me hours of physical abuse with a sledge hammer. They were both off in a few minutes without breaking a sweat. Thanks SMA. Appreciate everything you share.
I owe you a cold one man.
I'm at work today with a Ford explorer, both rear wheel bearing growling. I beat the living snot out of it and all of a sudden I thought to myself "didn't I see buddy do this car with a press idea last week or week before" quickly I skipped ahead to the bolt through the hub and went ohhhh yaaaaaaaa. Worked like a charm man. Thank you so much. I've munched 3 grade 8 bolts so far and still gotta do the other bloody side. Customer is upset it's taking so long but that's the way she goes! 6pm now and we close at 9pm gonna be close.
Wanted to say thanks for this video. I’ve been watching for a long time. Neighbor had been working on a wheel bearing all day, beating it with a hammer, slide hammer, air hammer (not big nasty sized) and nothing. I said south main had a video doing this I could swear. 20-30 min later it was off.
Hmmm, Eric must have switched brake clean brands, cuz this one doesn't make any noise. Don't know if I trust it...
Just what I was thinking.... no sound effect makes me highly suspicious.
Must have put the new muffler on it....seams awful quiet. Must be from China!!! OR Doorman makes brake cleaner now. LMAO!!!
@@billysmith6131 Nope, NOT Doorman, it worked (even if it was too quiet)...
I don’t know if he has a sound for sea foam penetrating oil.
😲😵
Just in time - I was about to watch a 6 year old 'vintage' SMA video.
Great idea. Quick and simple and straight to the point!!!
Nice work Eric, thank heaven I don't own a ford! I will do the same method for my 05 Silverado 4x4 on the front end. I do love your instructional videos and watch you in action whenever I want to refresh my methods before doing repairs on my truck. Thanks, Eric!
I just used this trick yesterday, what a time saver! After a half hour of beating and getting nowhere, I remembered seeing you do this. I didn't have a grade 8 bolt though, so I torqued it and hammered and re-torqued which worked excellent! I had both sides off in under 10 minutes.
Nice work!
What’s is a grade 8 bolt? Will galvanized steel from Home Depot work?
@@shellysdopevids6988 Not all steel/bolts are the same, some are stronger than others. You'll find videos on here that explains the markings on the head of bolts, much better than I could in the comments section.
What do you mean "torqued it … and re-torqued"? I don't have a grade 8 bolt either and really want to know how you made it work.
@@NoSuffix I mean I tightened it up basically until it stopped, whacked the bearing with a hammer which caused it to move a little and I tightened it more. I repeated this until the bearing pulled from the knuckle.
Best personality on UA-cam...period. Big Nasty and Thor in tandem - it doesn't get any better than that!!!
Some hubs have threaded jack bolt holes for this purpose.
Used it on heavy Equipment alot.
Excellent channel
Nice you help people.
This hub has one too. You can see it at the beginning of the video.
@@Name-vu1kn yeah, 1/4" bolts 😂 could work in florida
👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you so much ! Your video saved part of my vacation in Orlando.The hardest part was not to remove the hub/bearing,it was to find a grade 8 bolts.I bought $200 worth of manual had tools and changed it with the help of my brother,straight in the parking lot of the resort without making any noise.Almost….
I am currently attempting to change bearings on a Ford explorer and I've been beating on the hub all day. This is a life saver
Just like me mom told me, don't work hard, work smart. Good job Eric.
Great job I was a mechanic for 25 yrs and always found different ways to do things. But a good BFH is also a great tool to have when needed.
The BFH is great especially when it’s used on removing lower ball joints.. always fun counting how many hits it take
Wish we knew this a couple days ago! Ended up charging the police department for a new knuckle after wasting an hour trying to get the bearing out.
Don’t worry about it. All they have to do is to ticket the next guy they see going 1mph over the limit. That will recover the cost of the knuckle.
The ticket I got on the Mass Pike a few years back could've bought TWO of those for them ...
NO WORRY. THEY'LL JUST RAISE YOUR TAXES NEXT YEAR TO COVER IT....
👍👍👍
@@brianburns7211 problem there all the popo watch this channel too and the next ticket will be the mechanics ..... damn .... lol
Just took one of an Dodge 2500 that was on since 1999 and still fine but needed to change ball joints. Tried the power steering trick, the hub buster tool, PB blaster, impact method, torch heat, and 15 ton hydraulic puller and beat on it. Got nothing! Wouldn't budge. Even the bolt press trick.
Ended up cutting the ball joints off with an Sawzall blade between axle ears and knuckle. Now I'm able to work on it and press the ball joint pieces out. The hub bearing was fine before attempting to remove it but now it's trashed being that it was rust welded within the knuckle housing. At least I got it off and will be putting an new one on after cleaning the housing up and applying antiseize. Surprisingly the front u-joint was also still good after 23 yrs and 320k miles. That's amazing.
Thanks Eric. This method is a life saver. I used it on my girlfriends 2014 Chevy Impala LT. Hit it with a hammer a couple times, did nothing so i was like nope grab a bolt and a nut. Less than 5 mins bearing/ hub assembly was out.
I have had 2 of these bearings kick my ass. I can't wait to try this method. Thanks Eric
I just used a sledge hammer and pure rage. No air tools.
Ya GOTTA get it loosed up by having a beer or two before you start... Pent up rage thats release by some liquid courage will assist...
Neat headache saving trick! However it would appear that you could also remove a second stud and use two longer bolts and go at them intermittently until the whole bearing just pops out of the knuckle
You saved me from typing these exact thoughts ! LOL
Agree, he should have used atleast two bolts.
Yes, he said exactly that at the end of the video.
I just completed this operation over the weekend. What i thought would be a few hours, literally turned into the weekend. Beating, hammering, air hammering, slide hammering, and porta-power all proved worthless. It wasn't this particular video but one of the "shorts" the I saw the bolt trick. 13th trip to town and $10 worth of hardware won the war. I don't know who to give proper credit to for this fine nugget of knowledge, but someone deserves an all-over ass kissing for sharing this. On behalf of numerous driveway mechanics, thank you!
Im a home driveway DIY tinkerer and have been trying to get the rear hubs off my 2001 Mercedes SLK for months! All I need to do is to change the back plates as they are so rusty they are falling apart and as they hold the handbrake shoes they need replacing. Easy job I thought, already done the fronts but the rear! I've been beating on it for about 9 months on and off Ive tried lide hammers, I've tried air hammers, I've tried hub pullers (it bent a 7mm thick steal plate I made a puller out of!) and was about to give up and take it to a garage to have it done by them at stupidly large price when I saw this video. I know the video is a year old at this point but I dont know how I missed it as I watch all your videos Eric and have learned so much. keep on videoing and giving guys like me tips so we can DIY it. I will be trying this once the snow clears and the temperature climbs above 0C lol. We rarely get snow this close to xmas here in the South East UK and now im impatient to try this lol.
I just so happen to have the exact same vehicle as in the video, 2013 Ford Explorer. I was about to give up and call a tow to take my vehicle to the mechanic when I found your video. Worked like a charm. I did the same thing except I had no air tools or impact driver. Just a socket and breaker bar. I used the bolt at approx 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock. Took some time but eventually came out. Once you see what is inside you realize why it was so hard to get out. Thanks for making this video
“Get a life cause it really doesn’t matter”. That was good
I used this method years ago on a 2002 sienna rear bearings. Works great. I thought i was the first to think of this method. 😡
Ecclesiastes 1:9 "...and there is no new thing under the sun." 😁
I used it on a Lincoln LS (except I removed three studs and put three bolts in at the same time). Posted it to an Lincoln forum and that;s how everyone on that list did it. Thought I was the first to think of it.
It’s a pretty standard method on Euro cars because they don’t have studs. Probably the only good thing about having lug bolts!
LOL
The "Last chance" ( I believe they are called in one of his later vids) work great! I grease the bolts before I run them in for a little less friction. I've done 3 or 4 in the last few weeks with no assistant and I have had no trouble at all. Saves time even though the bolts are definitely a wear part. I will gladly pay a couple of bucks for the bolts to save myself hours of labor.
"Snap on off out of here" 😂 I always enjoy your sense of humor. It makes watching your videos that much more enjoyable.
Awesome trick. My Dad taught me a similar trick for removing rotors that are rust welded on. Same exact process with bolt and nut and since we had a large hole using the caliper bracket hole, we also used a washer. Just keep rotating the rotor until all the rust is broken free all the way around and it comes off like magic.
What a great idea!!
@@MrSilver708 after messing with that for over an hour you start to get bright ideas 💡
Good job man, thinking outside the box gets it done every time. I am an industrial mechanic and we encounter ridiculous situations similar to this fairly often. I also work on heavy trucks, they are stupid to work on. If you can’t think, you are beaten.
There is nothing like Eric presenting us with Air Hammer Ballet.
So.. I've been turning wrench for 21 years. I'm going to try this... done everything else and have come to the conclusion that it's faster to pull the knuckle off and use the press to pop it out... but after seeing this I will definitely try it... and if it's not faster then pulling the knuckle. I WILL be commenting again lol. Thanks for the tip!
Just did this today after watching your video. I have a 2013 explorer xlt and this method is legit. I had to use washers with my bolt but it came off after going back and forth from each side a couple times. I didn't have an air chisel so after I had quite some separation I took a hammer and a chisel between the bearing and knuckle.
Great idea. Usually when I put these back in, I'll use a little anti-seize. Gives me hope that if I have to do it again, it might not be as difficult.
One can only hope.
Actually using copperized season cream will guarantee it will come off again very easily.
@@lanenorthcutt349 actually using copper season cream by permatex will ensure that it will come off very easily the next time as long as those services are clean.
@@willsrestorations why copper and not siver,normal anti sieze?
@@g.reyner1868 because the copper seizing cream has a much higher melting point and with the copper type it will guarantee it will break free the next time it needs repair
That was awesome, I learn something every video, and I thought you were an electrical genius only. This is what I would call dissimilar metal corrosion, steel mated to aluminum with no anti seize applied, I always coat parts before assembly, thank you soo much for sharing your knowledge without cursing like a sailor, LOL.
Glad guys are putting their tid bits of helping knowledge out here for people to learn My uncle has a shop Semi /Diesel trucks and local fire departments vechicles. Many times when the employees come by police and fire departments with personal vechicles these problems are quite common. Two bolts /nut with some washers most times do the trick. The air chisels are always a good idea to have standing by. Or just several chisels and a 4 pound maul hammer will eventually pop it. Good video for do it yourself and safety first.
Couldn't you use the threaded hole opposite the removed stud to run a bolt through pushing on both sides at once or alternating back and forth?
Worked perfectly on a 20 year old Rav4. Saved me a lot of headache. I used 2 or 3 bolts and alternated between tightening them.
Curious to know but would thick (1/8”) aluminum shims prevent the 1/2” bolt from leaving marks in the bearing face? Pretty awesome method to get the bearing off regardless! Way to go Mr.O!
Yes it would, even a plain think washer would work.
use large thick washers or a chunk of thick steel bar radius ground on end(3/16" +). either way would probably need a helper/third arm :)
but yes it would leave virtually no trace at all, not that the marks cannot be flattened with file or grinder.
pretty much, as long as it hasn't staked in the bearing bore hole locking the hub tighter or making the new not fit (again file/grinder will fix) :)
Like he said, marks on the face of the knuckle mean nothing unless you are OCD. They have no effect on anything with the bearing or knuckle
@@ohboy2592 That's CDO!😉😂😂
@@ohboy2592 I understand what Eric was saying and agree with his actions he took. I was thinking out loud in case any others try to tackle these bearings.
Love the fact it separates the backing plate from the hub at the same time. That is usually just as difficult too. Been using this method for front hubs but great idea on the back.
"They'll get the whole knuckle so you don't gotta piss with it" oh ya and deal with all the rotten nuts and bolts that hold em on then deal with the smoked alignment adjustments. na I'm good I'll do the bearing. As a rust belt mechanic if suspention/chassis components ain't broke don't touch it, don't look at it, don't even think about it
Amen to that.....
Southern WI here and I know what you're talking about with pretty much every vehicle, especially ford's but I guess I've lucked out so far on every one of these things I've done. Had a few month stretch last year where I was seeing these things and pulled the knuckle every time. My nightmare for rotted/seized rear suspension is BMW, Subaru, and Honda.
sounds like your a lazy mechanic... and lose your boss money.
Exactly
Pathetic people calling themselves “mechanics” that can’t get a simple bearing assembly apart.
@@South_0f_Heaven_ thats what they do now... they have the real Tech train the rookies and then let the real Tech go...and keep the lazy guy so they can pay them less...Most Techs these days are just parts changers... if they had to diagnose something they fail.
I just did the front hub bearing on 2013 Explorer. Tried every method but this one to get them out. Finally got them off by taking the knuckle off and using a 20-ton press. I have to do the back ones too. I'm definitely going to try this before the press. Thanks.
Used this trick yesterday for my first ever wheel bearing replacement. Worked great! Things I had trouble with...
1. Passenger rear bearing - the back bottom bolt for the bearing was difficult to get to for what I had.
2. Didn't get grade 8 bolts from the start for this. Chewed through the crap ones in about 5 seconds. Couldn't back it out as the treads stripped. Had to cut it off.
3. I used a larger nut as a spacer when I bottom out the bolt. Worked great.
4. The bearing was so seized in there I started to chew through the grade 8 bolts as well.
5. Took about 5 hours...complete newbie.
6. Lastly and most surprising...I was able to do it with dropping only 1 F bomb. This was from habit and not aggravation.
Managed it all with no air hammer. Just and impact, grinder, and hand tools.
Thanks for the life saving post!!!
A good tech tip to help in this situation. Thanks for passing it on, Eric. I'll keep this tip in my back pocket too, maybe use it in another conundrum of this sort.
By the way there is a puller tool just for this that makes it a joke
We put man on the moon in July 1969 and this is what today’s vehicle engineers are delivering us. Thank god for common sense trouble shooting mechanics.
It's not the engineers fault... it's the purchase department of the manufacturers telling their suppliers that the whole part mustn't cost more than $2.47 and must reduce in price 3% every year for 5 years, or they won't buy it. Then you get what they pay for. Somebody makes it cheaper and it dissolves in rust in 5 years? Awesome! Steady spare part revenue and happy dealers!
Moon landing was faked
Ya just so you're aware no one has been to the moon lol
Homie you should look deeper into if anyone’s ever been to the moon lmao just saying🤷♂️
Come on! Nobody ever landed on moon. That was hollywood. Its not real!
Eric- “Safety third”
Guy- *almost hits Eric with a air hammer*
Me- “NO NO NO NO NO “
yes yes yes yes yes
It was the no hearing protection that got me. As someone with long term tinnitus problems (25 years or so), I just like to see people look after their hearing better.
Looks like someone hasn't had the rear toe link recall completed on their 2013 ford explorer. At 7:31 you can see that the old welded style are still installed. Eric, I'm in CT. Love your channel. I did 21 years in the Navy as a diesel mechanic and refrigeration and do all of my own vehicle maintenance. I don't have half the confidence you do. You are truly inspiring. Take care.
I've watched your procedures in the past and your one of the best and knowledgeable on utube..... for me getting a stuck wheel bearing out of knuckle, I leave 2 bolts in the wheel bearing loose and use the long hammer air hammer on the back side and push bearing out on the bolts threaded in the bearing.... never had one that wouldn't come out.
Great tip and advice! My method is a lot easier though. I drop it off at my mechanic's place and he calls me when it's finished. I don't even feel slightly frustrated when the job is done!
That can just put a hurtin' on your wallet. LOL
Yeah your frustration is $400 lighter. That is some people’s weekly paycheck when a little brain power and 15 minutes saves $350
@@sirsweetness8332 Some folks don't know how to use their brain.
@@sirsweetness8332 I scheduled an alignment, they halted cuz wheel bearing was bad. Here's your $800 estimate. Hmm ok went home ordered a Moog for $170 spent about 2hrs changing it. $630 saved for 2hrs of work.
Thanks Eric. I’m doing a wheel bearing tomorrow and I feel this is going to save me a ton of time
Great idea. I'd use three longer bolts and turn them each successively to keep the force aligned. :)
Industrial pulley and sprocket sheaves can be separated this way with just two or three quarter inch bolts and a hand wrench. The key is to apply even pressure with each bolt. If you're pulling one-sided like in this video, it can be almost, if not completely, impossible to separate them.
Ditto
I’d drive that explorer to the junkyard.
@@relyenterprisestx You've got too much money.
Great idea and method, I've never changed rear wheel bearings, only the fronts. Thank you very much and will remember this.
Dude. I was struggling for over an hour. Watched this video and it was off within about 5 mins. Thank man!!!! Awesome video
I just used this on a couple Toyota wheel bearings. Wirked great.
To keep from damaging the tin shield, I used a piece of 1/8" steel plate I had laying around to protect it.
5:15-5:45 is basically Synchronized Swimming for mechanics.
YEP, I GIVE THEM AN 8 FOR FORM AND A 10 FOR DIFFICULTY.
A bond forming moment for wrenching men 🔧😘
I thought he was gona ram that in Eric’s arm there for a minute.
Reminded of the old SNL skit with Harry Shearer and Martin Short!
👍👍
Make sure you apply anti-seize on the contact surfaces and the next person to change the wheel bearings will love you for it!
My thoughts exactly. Anti seize, it sure can't hurt!
Who cares!!!!! The new bearing your putting on will last longer than the remaining years on that car!!!!.
Thanks for this! I'm an apprentice tech, and some techs in my shop were stuck trying to get a bearing off on a jeep commander. I asked them try something and used this trick and got it off easy as and they were impressed :)
Good job. I just replaced a rear bearing on a ford expedition and can say with confidence you did a great job here.
I know this video is a bit old but I am a subscriber and just wanted to day Thank you!! I was beating the snot.out of a rear bearing on a 2015 traverse and this worked like a charm, literally 3 or 4 minutes and it was out. Thank you for taking the time to film, edit and post this content. You sir help so many people and I for 1 greatly appreciate your effort, your time and knowledge....thank you Eric.
I’ve been doing it this way for years I used to bolts to push and I got little half-inch pieces of steel beat into a spoon shape that I push off of instead of pushing off the aluminum knuckle leaves no marks
I was gonna say, if those pecker tracks give you heartburn, put a little piece of metal in between there for the bolt end to spin on. Most anything metal that fits in the spot would probably do the trick.
I've used your method in the past.....
Eric , I don't think there is anything you can't do , you really are "the man"
Oxidation sealed in like that around the bearing will seal it beyond tight !
Joe... Navy veteran..
I would have to make an appointment with the psychiatrist first to get meds before I attempt changing the bearings myself. This is one of the things I’d rather pay to get it done. You almost make everything look too easy. 👍 🇺🇸
That's crazy. I just took mine off on both sides and had no trouble at all. They are original and have been on the truck for 22 years. I also live in the south so we don't have crazy rust like y'all do up there.
I was just waiting for the other guy to hit Eric with an air hammer
He came pretty close though didnt he. I was thinking "This is an accident waiting to happen" as they were using the air chisels on it! So I'm glad they didn't get hurt cuz that surely would've happened to me with my womderful Luck.🤣🤣🤣🤣
That was not just the other guy. That there is the most eligible bachelor at SMA.
Eric wouldn't have felt a thing those arms are made from Adamantium
@@anthonydefreitas6006 LOL
@@anthonydefreitas6006 I once arm wrestled a weight lifter when I was stationed in Korea and beat him and I weighed all of about 175 pounds back then. It's a good thing we were both drunk at the time or he would've squashed me like an ant!🤣🤣🤣🤣
Get the helper some hearing protection, speaking from experience it will help in the long run. Keep up the good work love the vids. From UK
Did you say "hearing" protection? 🤣😂
I have used this method with considerable success. However, one problem that can occur is if the axel shaft has rusted into the hub splines, then you can't just force the hub away from the knuck because you will separate the u-joints in the axel shaft. What I do it, as was done here, is break the seal with the bolt trick, then use a 3 jaw puller on it that centers on the axel shaft. I also have a set for my press that works really well for separating the knuck and the hub if I feel I have to remove the entire knuckle to separate them. Many dust plate are also riveted, so I will remove them and use SS fittings to reinstall. on When I put bearing hubs and knuckles together I always use an anti seize of some sort at assembly time. The same goes for the backside of the rotors and also on the front side around the hub center and where the wheel will set. All of this can be done with only one person without any help.
That’s why he checked that the axle wasn’t frozen first. This guys knows what he’s doing.
I have done this a couple of times, but I just did one of these today and I didn't remember this. Sometimes I am a bit dense. Great video. Thanks for reminding me!
I replace both sides rear today 4/17/22 on a 2012 Ford explorer limited in Massachusetts worked like a charm WOW thank you
“Get a life of it bothers you” ha I can’t afford to get a life that’s why I’m stuck fixing all my own stuff! Lmao
My life is weirdo vids like this 😆
Nice tip.
Was that brake clean at the end...? If so, going to need to redo the video with the bc bell. :)
I'm sure we'll hear the 'Baaaaa Baaaaa" when it got coated with the Fluid Film (not a sponsor)
👍👍👍
Eric you always know how to use leverage and pressure to your advantage. Awesome tips
Awesome video, I will definitely remember this trick! They are a real PITA. Your right even if you can get a puller through there(no axle going through hub) the pullers don’t work. No matter what you gonna damage that rotor shield
"Doesnt do anythin but it makes ya feel good" truer words have never been spoken 😂
I would never let someone with so little regard for my precious backing plate work on my vehicle!
The tire guy scuffed the inner liner of one of my front wheel wells once. I nearly passed out!
thats sum funny shit
👍👍👍👍
What backing plate, I live in Wisconsin!
Backing plates are bait for rust so that it gets distracted and doesn’t eat the bodywork.
I took the knuckle off and took the whole assembly down to my local fire station. They were more than willing to try their hydraulic spreaders on it. There’s no words to describe the explosion when they separated. The hub flew 20’ one way. The knuckle 20’ the other. Scared everyone.
👍👍👍👍
You may not want to buy it but there's actually a puller tool just for this that makes it a cinch
I was gonna comment about "beatin' it 'til your arm falls off", but I am so much more mature than that!
As technicians, aren't we all very mature 🤣🤣
I had to hammer a sleeve off of a shaft one time and another dude says "you have to beat that dude off." I almost lost it.
Surprised eric didnt say work smarter not harder.
The joke's on him there's actually a puller tool that removes it in about 30 seconds.
@@thrillhunter9897 where's the link to the
puller
Bearings on a Prius are the exact same way as this. I’ve wasted a lot of time beating these given I had no access to an air hammer. Using the bolt/press method is the only way of getting these boogers off. Excellent tip!
This is exactly the way I do it. Have had to replace both rear bearings on my wife's 2016 Explorer. I knock out 2 studs and use 2 bolts and it makes it go a little quicker. Love that Seafoam too. I also use a little heat with my torch and some encouragement with a small sledge and they come right out. Great video!
I had one of these knuckles in the press one time and man when that puppy finally let go the entire press jumped right off the ground violently and I about had a heart attack.