*Works perfectly for my use as a heated press **MyBest.Tools** Space between the ram jack and the base is a little tight. Make sure you set the ram jack arm so that it's in a position for you to get maximum leverage on whatever you're pressing. You may have to unbolt the front plate of the press and realign the ram in the teeth so that the arm is not at an awkward angle when fully cranked down.Other than aligning the ram in the teeth with the crank arm this .5 ton arbor press comes out of the box pretty much ready to use.*
Great video. One little point 1:35 don't break a ball joint by hitting the nut like this. Thread damage will easily occur. Strike the side of the cast at the hole.
Good job, I really liked how you secured the knuckle at start of the video, simple but ingenious. I'd only recommend not to use chrome style sockets on the press as they can shatter and even at 6 tons the shrapnel can kill you. Keep them all impact type as you used on the top. Great job!
The reason why i came to this video was to know if i could get away with buying a cheaper 6T press. And your video has helped me with that question. Thanks a lot!
that is not anywhere remotely near 6ton pressure from that press....more like1.7 max and thats being generous i'm not putting this method down it was a great vid
@@russellking9762What you say makes sense .. that the real-world pressure is a lot less than the rated 6T. How about a 12T press? Same limits...more like 3-5 T?
i bought me a 20 ton hydraulic press from harbor freight it cost me about 2 hundred dollars. and let me tell you im so happy it solved all my wheel bearing removal.the hardest thing is to do is to set up on the press to push out the bearings other than that i think if you are going to attemp to work on a wheel bearing you must have a 20 ton press it makes it so much easier.
Very well done video. Thank you for making it. I usually grind around the old outer race so it wont get stuck in the housing when using it to press in the old bearing. It looked like you may have pressed on the inner race at the end to get the bearing assembly in the last little bit and that must be avoided at all cost.
He spent days changing that bearing, it is fascinating to see someone buy all that tools and hustled all that time to change 1 bearing, he could saved his time and money by buying a pre installed one for 50$
if you mean an entire knuckle assembly from the dealer, then that can cost quite a bit of $$$, the cheapest parts are the hub and bearing, once you do it once next time is quicker and easier
I needed 18T to get the bearing out of my Suzuki :D 6T is to weak for the most tasks, it need to be at least 10T or more ,..Very nice video and work ;)
Use a torch, use some Kano Kroil, use the bolt that comes with that cup to push the bearing out square so it doesn't bind. Lot of hard work there gotta give it to you, you don't quit! Good video, love the nice close shots, I took notes, will be doing 4 of these soon, looking forward to it and scared at the same time :)
That's a good description. Only reason pros don't often use this approach is because it takes longer and you need an alignment after, because bolts holding the upper knuckle affect camber.
You wouldn't need an alignment on this car because the way the knuckle attaches to the strut. Since the knuckle pinches the bottom of the strut, and the lower ball joint position also does not change, the alignment would remain the same . If the knuckle had the more common two bolts, then an alignment would be required to correct the camber only, the caster and toe would remain the same. Inexpensive tools can be used to check and return the camber adjustment with a magnetic bubble level tool before and after bearing replacement.
correct me if I am wrong. I was taught not to lube bearing external surfaces because you can invite bearing spin out. I have seen bearings spin in their carriers I believe you call them. Just clean and press bearing in.
I had this debate with one of my viewers who thought he could press a bearing with a 6-ton press. I maintain you need at minimum a 20-ton press. You made my point as it also required smashing it with a hammer which is likely why the old hub was found to be running out.
thats one hell of a hammer swing considering you found it to be more effective than a SIX TON PRESS lol. In all seriousness, thanks! this vid really helps
Was going to buy one of these just for this aplication....I see a front-drive bearing replacement on a 20 year old car in my future. So, this demonstrated that I would be better with a 12T press. However, this little press was adequate to carefully remount the new bearing and hub. Removal doesn't have to be that carefully done so long as you don't damage the knuckle.
Nice instructional video, I ejoy learning ways to do repairs that are cost friendly even if there are a few mishaps along the way. Job gets done is all that matters!
Good video, just shows you need the right tools. I didn't think that press was big enough, I've got something 3 times the size and used it to remove wheel bearings from a Mercedes rear wheel carrier a few years back.
Using a small press was the point of the video, to show it can be done with cheap tools. Most people don't have the space or the need for a 30 ton shop press in their garage. Of course having more powerful and professional tools makes everything easier. I prefer using the screw type bearing press on the car, it makes the job so much faster and less likely to damage other parts in the process. Plus it comes with the various disc plates to push on the right places of the bearing, knuckle and hub.
Yes guys, but how bad did you let the old bearing get before trying to fix it? When I was barely 20 I rode a bad bearing so long on a 2000 F150 it welded the races in there for good. And those aren't even press in bearing
I was thinking of getting the 20 ton but the website says it weighs 200 lbs! Is this true? If so, do you think the 12 ton will do just fine for an Accord?
@@MrSupernova111 I got the 12 ton and it worked just fine, HOWEVER I had to weld a bead inside the bearings as they were rusted in VERY well, the welding basically heats up the bearing and allows heat to break the bond. I believe even a 20 ton press wouldn't have worked in this situation as I watched through many videos and the welding trick was shown by a mechanic who has years of experience. After welding the bearing, it was pressed out in about 1 min. Oh and the 12 or 20 ton presses come in two boxes at HF, a bit heavy but manageable, the press is a pain in the ass to move once assembled as it does get heavy so I would suggest putting casters on it if you plan to move it around the garage
@@hardkore360 . In that case I'm glad I went with the 20 ton. Since my last comment I decided to go with the 20 ton because as you said I found out that it comes in three boxes (thankfully) which I can handle (I'm a one man show here). I'll be working on my bearings this week which I think will be fine. But my relative's car needs bearings badly and I'm not sure how far gone they are. I'm fearful that he might have the same problem you described and we might need professional help with his bearings. I have an '08 Accord and he has a '98 Forester. Thank you for the great information!
@@frankmata1812 . If a 20 ton press is not enough to replace a wheel bearing for a sedan then a torch isn't going to be of any help. Best to replace the entire knuckle with hub and bearing.
A&P Mechanic I was always warned when working in the auto mechanic field not to loosen or tighten the hub retaining nut with an impact gun because it will Brinell the races of the constant velocity joints and shortens the joints life. I could not be sure, but I hope you pressed the wheel hub in supporting the inner bearing race when pressing the hub in or there is the danger of Brinelling the bearing race as well. This really shortens the bearings life.
Good lord that's a lot work! Just get yourself a 63728 kit, you don't even need to remove knuckle to remove old and install new bearing. You just need a decent impact wrench, your tool can get this job done in a couple of mins. You'll pay the same price as a 6T press at better values, it even comes with all the adapters so you don't need to make your own as seen here.
Btw, I've done it before and swore it was fabulous! My only regret was I didn't buy dealer bearing, I got autojunk bearings and it only lasted only 2 years.
One time, my snap rings was so badly sticked to the bearing, I had to take the whole thing to a mechanic, he had to use air chisel to shave the whole ring from the bearing. I suggest any DIY person change the bearings when they first hear the wobbling noise. Otherwise the immense heat will almost weld the retainer rings to the bearing.
I have changed bearings that welded themselves to the knuckle and hub. Definitely not a DIY job at that point. I had to use every tool in the shop to remove the bearing and still salvage the knuckle and hub. I like using the screw type bearing press tools, they work very well for 99% of the FWD bearing jobs.
I did this job with the exact same setup 6T press and I will tell you right now do not attempt a wheel bearing job without a press with at least 12T preferably 20T. It took me hours to get the bearing out and I still think I got lucky in the end.
its a lot less stress on the transmission and drive shaft if you remove the axle nut with the brakes still attached and have some one else hold the brake down. the way they did it all the force from the impact is being transferred to the drive shaft and parking pawl.
or you can take an allen wrench and put it inside the caliper where the rotor fins are with the car in neutral....when taking off the axle nut the allen wrench will bottom out against the rotor fins, allowing the nut to come off
Robot female voice states 6 ton pressure is not enough. Next shot is the bloke whacking it with a lump hammer. Nice to see a real life example of a fellow do it yourselfer.
Need to push out the subframe bushings on my bmw and push new ones in. Got this press so I hope it works! Wooden blocks are a life-saver for things like this.
Such an informative and good video. For me a Peugeot Boxer 2.0BlueHDi coming up next week. Just broke the bearing on the 120 miles round trip, so has to be done. “Luckily” Xmas is here so no races for me in the next couple of weeks. Greg
I realize professional tools and shop equipment are expensive and that sometimes jobs can be performed by improvising and using what's available. The tools and methods used here are good examples of how people sustain serious injuries and become permanently disabled.
true like me, i used 22 mm impact socket to remove the hub, then chisel to remove the outer part of the bearing then i used the old bearing to punch in the new bearing, to put the hub back that was the problem so i used the bearing punck kit
DeeDee Jai yup yup yup,,, i think all tools are dangerous if not used properly, specially the metal cutting wheel, it could break and fly all over the face
Great job - not sure what kind of car was it - But, I did learn to use the jaw wrench to remove the racer from the hub - I used a grinder to cut a corner of it and the hammer it out, your method was best (next time I hope won't have to) - When taking the O-rings/ locking rings out, I used a tool / from HBFT else it was impossible with anything else on my Mercedes E430 - On the Prius I did not use a press nor any speciality tools (they come out easily with lots of hammering and it was my first job, so i was also figuring out) - One last recommendation safety wise, when torquing the hub nut, Don't pull up, it will damage your back (very easily), instead turn it 180 degrees and step on it /push it down to the ground - on opening it too - You won't feel a thing -
harbor freight has them on sale all the time plus coupons, just picked up a 1/2" drive 20-150 ft lb torque wrench for 11 bucks after discounts. works great
Spanthrax M That $11.00 torque wrench, have been known to be inaccurate up to 20% - 30% compared to high quality equivalent models. And they don't last long when used at high loads. Maybe 5 times and that's it. Forget about using it at lower torque setting after that. Be off to the scrap heap!
Mate , put the removed hub with old bearing in it into oven ( clean & dry first ! ) raise slowly to hot enough to need leather gloves to handle it , beware residual grease in old bearing that DEFINITELY CAN EXPLODE if got too hot , also I would not use a gas flamed oven ! water simmering heat should be quite enough ,this will expand the iron forging out off of the old bearing a few thou , just enough to shift the old bearing out while the lot is still hot , clean it up quick & press new bearing in using new circlips , leave it in a safe place to cool RIGHT DOWN COLD before attempting to refit it , as the outside forging WILL SHRINK down onto the new bearing , no matter how you do this , it,s dangerous , be cautious , see any accident coming , & stay safe , I,ve done all this WITHOUT A PRESS , it gets hairy , much better with one , & a blast screen for safety , ALSO GOOD EYE PROTECTION & a hard hat might not be a bad idea . Best of luck guys !
BRILLIANT! Me low acuity could nor solve the puzzle if how to "press out" the hub from the bearing/splindle assembly. Aye, I did not purchase a 12-ton press to use a bleedin' slide-hammer to out the hubs! I just need to gets mesself the flat and black steel to out over the 4x4s. Thanks you so much! P.S. Who could have known that it takes more than 12,000 pounds of force to press-out a bearing? I hope me US$120.00 12-Ton I purchased press does not balk forcing me to hammer milimeters... :-S
good job well done just be more careful when using both hammers it's never a good practice to bang two hammer heads together they are made of hardened steel and can grenade an fly apart causing major injuries.
Filiberto Barrera I still have a b.b in my legs and arms. The doc won’t even risk taking it out. I’m thinking about doing it my self, u should take yours out... also
never ever ever use wood in a press for any reason! also, those washers on the lug studs are only there to keep the disc on during manufacturing. After the first brake job, they do not get reused.
Enjoyed this a lot. You may have mentioned you need to place the magnetic side of the bearing on the inside--terrible mistake else no ABS capability afterwards....
I done a toyota corolla front wheel bearing with m30 all thread using washers I always clean prior opening any part of the car you will be amazed how things dismantle after cleaning with wire brush and wd40
You made it look so easy, what kind of lube? Any normal sticky red grease? Marine grease ect would work right? Even assembly lube or plain oil would work if its all u had right?
Do you think a 12 ton is plenty for an Accord? I'm looking at the 20 ton also but at 200 lbs (per the website) its just too big and heavy for my DIY liking. Thanks!
i have a $25 bicycle bottom bracket tool that i used more than once to fit the bearing into the hub for my 350z.. and my old g35.. and these things often press on the edge of the bearing.. you have to apply pressure on the race..otherwise, the bearings can be loose and you will use up your axle real fast.
When pushing back the calipers (around 19 mins into the video), did you remember to pop the bonnet and open the brake fluid reservoir cap, otherwise the fluid can burst at some point along the brake line (seen it happen). The job is far too difficult for me, will go to the local mechanic instead. Bearings are tough.
*Works perfectly for my use as a heated press **MyBest.Tools** Space between the ram jack and the base is a little tight. Make sure you set the ram jack arm so that it's in a position for you to get maximum leverage on whatever you're pressing. You may have to unbolt the front plate of the press and realign the ram in the teeth so that the arm is not at an awkward angle when fully cranked down.Other than aligning the ram in the teeth with the crank arm this .5 ton arbor press comes out of the box pretty much ready to use.*
Great video. One little point 1:35 don't break a ball joint by hitting the nut like this. Thread damage will easily occur. Strike the side of the cast at the hole.
Hi the name of the tool please
Liked it because this legit shows what happens with sometimes underpowered equipment, good job!
Hammering on the knuckle would also have the same effect.
Good job, I really liked how you secured the knuckle at start of the video, simple but ingenious. I'd only recommend not to use chrome style sockets on the press as they can shatter and even at 6 tons the shrapnel can kill you. Keep them all impact type as you used on the top. Great job!
Good advice on the impacts.
The reason why i came to this video was to know if i could get away with buying a cheaper 6T press. And your video has helped me with that question. Thanks a lot!
that is not anywhere remotely near 6ton pressure from that press....more like1.7 max and thats being generous i'm not putting this method down it was a great vid
@@russellking9762What you say makes sense .. that the real-world pressure is a lot less than the rated 6T. How about a 12T press? Same limits...more like 3-5 T?
i bought me a 20 ton hydraulic press from harbor freight it cost me about 2 hundred dollars. and let me tell you im so happy it solved all my wheel bearing removal.the hardest thing is to do is to set up on the press to push out the bearings other than that i think if you are going to attemp to work on a wheel bearing you must have a 20 ton press it makes it so much easier.
Did it still take elbow grease with the 20 ton or did it have no issues strength wise
Due for some new wood blocks. Great seeing capable people getting real work done.
Very well done video. Thank you for making it. I usually grind around the old outer race so it wont get stuck in the housing when using it to press in the old bearing. It looked like you may have pressed on the inner race at the end to get the bearing assembly in the last little bit and that must be avoided at all cost.
I guess he could have used the old one... i agree that wasn't obvious from the video.
"The BOOSH is removed" Great show of the press. Im getting one of these for some gearbox bearings and the bushes on my track car. Thanks 👍
Actuate the lever ,and press the shaft deep inside until bottoming out on the people with negative comments...........good tutorial
Ramon Lopez w
🤣
He spent days changing that bearing, it is fascinating to see someone buy all that tools and hustled all that time to change 1 bearing, he could saved his time and money by buying a pre installed one for 50$
if you mean an entire knuckle assembly from the dealer, then that can cost quite a bit of $$$, the cheapest parts are the hub and bearing, once you do it once next time is quicker and easier
You ain't getting this for no 50$ MAYBE you'll get a new hub for that but definitely not the knuckle😅
I have been shopping for a hydraulic press and this video confirms I need one bigger than a 6 ton.
I needed 18T to get the bearing out of my Suzuki :D 6T is to weak for the most tasks, it need to be at least 10T or more ,..Very nice video and work ;)
Use a torch, use some Kano Kroil, use the bolt that comes with that cup to push the bearing out square so it doesn't bind. Lot of hard work there gotta give it to you, you don't quit! Good video, love the nice close shots, I took notes, will be doing 4 of these soon, looking forward to it and scared at the same time :)
That's a good description. Only reason pros don't often use this approach is because it takes longer and you need an alignment after, because bolts holding the upper knuckle affect camber.
Rubbish
The minute I lose any suspension to replace components I get an alignment period.
You wouldn't need an alignment on this car because the way the knuckle attaches to the strut. Since the knuckle pinches the bottom of the strut, and the lower ball joint position also does not change, the alignment would remain the same .
If the knuckle had the more common two bolts, then an alignment would be required to correct the camber only, the caster and toe would remain the same.
Inexpensive tools can be used to check and return the camber adjustment with a magnetic bubble level tool before and after bearing replacement.
use a red paint pen to put that camber bolt back exactly as it was before :-)
correct me if I am wrong. I was taught not to lube bearing external surfaces because you can invite bearing spin out. I have seen bearings spin in their carriers I believe you call them. Just clean and press bearing in.
Even if this were the case. It has a retaining ring to keep it from coming out.
Best visual explanation of what to do on UA-cam...
I had this debate with one of my viewers who thought he could press a bearing with a 6-ton press. I maintain you need at minimum a 20-ton press. You made my point as it also required smashing it with a hammer which is likely why the old hub was found to be running out.
thats one hell of a hammer swing considering you found it to be more effective than a SIX TON PRESS lol. In all seriousness, thanks! this vid really helps
Was going to buy one of these just for this aplication....I see a front-drive bearing replacement on a 20 year old car in my future. So, this demonstrated that I would be better with a 12T press. However, this little press was adequate to carefully remount the new bearing and hub. Removal doesn't have to be that carefully done so long as you don't damage the knuckle.
Amazing job, very good tutorial.
Nice instructional video, I ejoy learning ways to do repairs that are cost friendly even if there are a few mishaps along the way. Job gets done is all that matters!
Had this issue, I used dawn dishwashing platinum soap and played with the snap ring (to get the soap behind the ring, and it loosens it all up :)
Good video, just shows you need the right tools. I didn't think that press was big enough, I've got something 3 times the size and used it to remove wheel bearings from a Mercedes rear wheel carrier a few years back.
Using a small press was the point of the video, to show it can be done with cheap tools. Most people don't have the space or the need for a 30 ton shop press in their garage.
Of course having more powerful and professional tools makes everything easier.
I prefer using the screw type bearing press on the car, it makes the job so much faster and less likely to damage other parts in the process. Plus it comes with the various disc plates to push on the right places of the bearing, knuckle and hub.
I did the same job on a 2010 cx7, wasn't budging with a 12ton.. This guy got lucky with this 6ton
I did a 2000 Toyota echo... Got to take it to the shop it's not going at all...
Yes guys, but how bad did you let the old bearing get before trying to fix it? When I was barely 20 I rode a bad bearing so long on a 2000 F150 it welded the races in there for good. And those aren't even press in bearing
Arcane Inferno Gaming it didn’t seem to matter. One side was good and one side was bad. But both came out equally difficult
Not long. Maybe 6 months from when it started to hum. The other side was good but changed it anyway.
Arcane Inferno Gaming that Ford is a different kind of barring. Those easily bolt in.
I enjoyed every minute of that Thankyou 😀
ua-cam.com/video/peEPoCtQHk4/v-deo.html
man I really appreciate yours because yours teaching about the mechanic really good thankyou man's
jose Diaz kg hood
I’m glad I bought the 20 ton on sale at HF. I almost went for the 6 ton but for 20 bucks more, I think its a better deal.
I was thinking of getting the 20 ton but the website says it weighs 200 lbs! Is this true? If so, do you think the 12 ton will do just fine for an Accord?
@@MrSupernova111 I got the 12 ton and it worked just fine, HOWEVER I had to weld a bead inside the bearings as they were rusted in VERY well, the welding basically heats up the bearing and allows heat to break the bond. I believe even a 20 ton press wouldn't have worked in this situation as I watched through many videos and the welding trick was shown by a mechanic who has years of experience. After welding the bearing, it was pressed out in about 1 min. Oh and the 12 or 20 ton presses come in two boxes at HF, a bit heavy but manageable, the press is a pain in the ass to move once assembled as it does get heavy so I would suggest putting casters on it if you plan to move it around the garage
@@hardkore360 . In that case I'm glad I went with the 20 ton. Since my last comment I decided to go with the 20 ton because as you said I found out that it comes in three boxes (thankfully) which I can handle (I'm a one man show here). I'll be working on my bearings this week which I think will be fine. But my relative's car needs bearings badly and I'm not sure how far gone they are. I'm fearful that he might have the same problem you described and we might need professional help with his bearings. I have an '08 Accord and he has a '98 Forester. Thank you for the great information!
Even with the 20 ton press it's a challenge.You have to heat it up with a torch.
@@frankmata1812 . If a 20 ton press is not enough to replace a wheel bearing for a sedan then a torch isn't going to be of any help. Best to replace the entire knuckle with hub and bearing.
A&P Mechanic I was always warned when working in the auto mechanic field not to loosen or tighten the hub retaining nut with an impact gun because it will Brinell the races of the constant velocity joints and shortens the joints life. I could not be sure, but I hope you pressed the wheel hub in supporting the inner bearing race when pressing the hub in or there is the danger of Brinelling the bearing race as well. This really shortens the bearings life.
I was thinking/hoping maybe he used the old one .
By the way,using the impact gun does damage the Axle arm, search it or ask an experienced mechanic guy
Excellent. I must make my press soon. Will be putting in some hood time with my everlast welder.
All this video has done is stopped me buying from a 6T press
Ya I bought a 20T. Not worth wasting your time/money
Exactly! Just bought a 20T today
@@sharee-1111 ANYTHING CAN GO BEYOND SIX YES U GUYS RIGHT I,M BUYING A 20 TON AS WELL THANKS GUYS
I'm tired just watching him work.
ua-cam.com/video/peEPoCtQHk4/v-deo.html
ONE DAY I WILL REACH THIS LEVEL, IF GOD WANTS! I ENJOYED THE CONTENT SINCE THE BEGINNING OF THE VIDEO. I WILL SUBSCRIBE UNTIL THE END.
молодец , мужик ! всё на отлично сделал , один минус - пыльник на шаровой повредил ...
Good lord that's a lot work! Just get yourself a 63728 kit, you don't even need to remove knuckle to remove old and install new bearing. You just need a decent impact wrench, your tool can get this job done in a couple of mins. You'll pay the same price as a 6T press at better values, it even comes with all the adapters so you don't need to make your own as seen here.
Btw, I've done it before and swore it was fabulous! My only regret was I didn't buy dealer bearing, I got autojunk bearings and it only lasted only 2 years.
One time, my snap rings was so badly sticked to the bearing, I had to take the whole thing to a mechanic, he had to use air chisel to shave the whole ring from the bearing. I suggest any DIY person change the bearings when they first hear the wobbling noise. Otherwise the immense heat will almost weld the retainer rings to the bearing.
Yes, if you pay attention the noise is obvious. It'll save on gas to change it sooner too.
I have changed bearings that welded themselves to the knuckle and hub. Definitely not a DIY job at that point. I had to use every tool in the shop to remove the bearing and still salvage the knuckle and hub.
I like using the screw type bearing press tools, they work very well for 99% of the FWD bearing jobs.
I did this job with the exact same setup 6T press and I will tell you right now do not attempt a wheel bearing job without a press with at least 12T preferably 20T. It took me hours to get the bearing out and I still think I got lucky in the end.
its a lot less stress on the transmission and drive shaft if you remove the axle nut with the brakes still attached and have some one else hold the brake down. the way they did it all the force from the impact is being transferred to the drive shaft and parking pawl.
Leave the car on the ground while loosing the nut is the best way.
or you can take an allen wrench and put it inside the caliper where the rotor fins are with the car in neutral....when taking off the axle nut the allen wrench will bottom out against the rotor fins, allowing the nut to come off
Robot female voice states 6 ton pressure is not enough. Next shot is the bloke whacking it with a lump hammer. Nice to see a real life example of a fellow do it yourselfer.
😂 👍🏻
Imagine how good this guy would be with a decent workshop :-D
The inner bush of old bearing is removed see..Z? then can push without damage
A more apt title for the video would be "How To Confirm That You Bought The Wrong Press For The Job."
Nice video. Very helpful. Thanks for showing every step.
Good that video shows the press struggling, it can often be difficult to keep the workpiece steady while an even force is applied.
The 6 ton press was saying I think I can, I think I can, then farts 🤣
1:28 turn the castle nut upside down before screwing on. Then your hammer is not striking the castle part of the nut.
Excellent video. Thank you!
For the lack of professional tools good job
You don't need to disassemble the sliding piece on the press!! Just pull the pins out and slide up or down to required height.Good vid tho. Regards
I wonder if he's worked that out yet.
Here in the USA, we just buy a whole new car every time the tires need air
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
thats why bank loans never ends :))
Not the worst wheel bearing job I've watched on youtube.
Need to push out the subframe bushings on my bmw and push new ones in. Got this press so I hope it works! Wooden blocks are a life-saver for things like this.
Such an informative and good video.
For me a Peugeot Boxer 2.0BlueHDi coming up next week.
Just broke the bearing on the 120 miles round trip, so has to be done. “Luckily” Xmas is here so no races for me in the next couple of weeks.
Greg
This man has a sweet voice.
Stephen Fairbanks 😂😂😂
I realize professional tools and shop equipment are expensive and that sometimes jobs can be performed by improvising and using what's available. The tools and methods used here are good examples of how people sustain serious injuries and become permanently disabled.
true like me, i used 22 mm impact socket to remove the hub, then chisel to remove the outer part of the bearing then i used the old bearing to punch in the new bearing, to put the hub back that was the problem so i used the bearing punck kit
can you explain why this is dangerous? see a lot of people use these kind of press and recommend it?
DeeDee Jai i think he meant it can raptures like a granade
+GAR You mean the tool would rapture or the press?
DeeDee Jai yup yup yup,,, i think all tools are dangerous if not used properly, specially the metal cutting wheel, it could break and fly all over the face
You know that you have bought the correct car, when it has "driftshafts" from the factory :-D .
was fun to watch and now i just bought a press for fixing those kind of things, Thanks and grats for all the hard work.
This is brilliant it make the job looks too easy
Очень хороший инструмент. Особенно внутреннию обойму подшипника снимать. Лайк!
Great job - not sure what kind of car was it - But, I did learn to use the jaw wrench to remove the racer from the hub - I used a grinder to cut a corner of it and the hammer it out, your method was best (next time I hope won't have to) - When taking the O-rings/ locking rings out, I used a tool / from HBFT else it was impossible with anything else on my Mercedes E430 - On the Prius I did not use a press nor any speciality tools (they come out easily with lots of hammering and it was my first job, so i was also figuring out) - One last recommendation safety wise, when torquing the hub nut, Don't pull up, it will damage your back (very easily), instead turn it 180 degrees and step on it /push it down to the ground - on opening it too - You won't feel a thing -
I have more force pulling up, I don't drink enough beer (or pop) to step on it.
Nice. I like the hammers too. But the big torque wrench looks like a serious investment.
harbor freight has them on sale all the time plus coupons, just picked up a 1/2" drive 20-150 ft lb torque wrench for 11 bucks after discounts. works great
Spanthrax M That $11.00 torque wrench, have been known to be inaccurate up to 20% - 30% compared to high quality equivalent models.
And they don't last long when used at high loads. Maybe 5 times and that's it. Forget about using it at lower torque setting after that. Be off to the scrap heap!
She's watching the video making it up as he's doing it. 😀🤣🤣
"How to do a job without any of the correct tools"
Yep!
This is just a salad of every tool in the shed.. few of which were fit for purpose
Ingenuity!
I thought I was the "use what you got, to get what you want" man.
#cdshawn
guna tukul
thx to the idea,im gonna build 1 hydraulic press. 20 ton jack will fit all bush or bearing mostly ^ ^
Build your press to work with a 60 ton jack and only use the 20 ton jack. I don't want to read about you in the paper.
what i mean is 20t is more reliable than 6t to cover up mostly all things.not mean to say 6t press jack exchange and install with 20t jack.
Mate , put the removed hub with old bearing in it into oven ( clean & dry first ! ) raise slowly to hot enough to need leather gloves to handle it , beware residual grease in old bearing that DEFINITELY CAN EXPLODE if got too hot , also I would not use a gas flamed oven ! water simmering heat should be quite enough ,this will expand the iron forging out off of the old bearing a few thou , just enough to shift the old bearing out while the lot is still hot , clean it up quick & press new bearing in using new circlips , leave it in a safe place to cool RIGHT DOWN COLD before attempting to refit it , as the outside forging WILL SHRINK down onto the new bearing , no matter how you do this , it,s dangerous , be cautious , see any accident coming , & stay safe , I,ve done all this WITHOUT A PRESS , it gets hairy , much better with one , & a blast screen for safety , ALSO GOOD EYE PROTECTION & a hard hat might not be a bad idea . Best of luck guys !
BRILLIANT!
Me low acuity could nor solve the puzzle if how to "press out" the hub from the bearing/splindle assembly. Aye, I did not purchase a 12-ton press to use a bleedin' slide-hammer to out the hubs! I just need to gets mesself the flat and black steel to out over the 4x4s.
Thanks you so much!
P.S. Who could have known that it takes more than 12,000 pounds of force to press-out a bearing?
I hope me US$120.00 12-Ton I purchased press does not balk forcing me to hammer milimeters... :-S
Use a soft propane flame, or boiling water, to warm up carrier. It only needs to come up to about 100 degrees Celsius to release most stuck bearings
thanks for this idea sir.kep up the good work👍👍👍
What a great job. I'm thinking i will do it myself but i have ti buy all thise tools
Very very interesting.
SAGAR. Punalur KERALA, INDIA.
Tighten the hub nut its easier and more healthy for you back from above pushing down (place wrench180* on nut)
I always pull up
good job well done just be more careful when using both hammers it's never a good practice to bang two hammer heads together they are made of hardened steel and can grenade an fly apart causing major injuries.
Scrubbing Bubbles mo
Don't be such a tart.
Scrubbing Bubbles I still have Pieces in my hand,from that exact technique.One hit the vain on top of my hand.
Filiberto Barrera
I still have a b.b in my legs and arms. The doc won’t even risk taking it out. I’m thinking about doing it my self, u should take yours out... also
@@filibertobarrera3839 You're so vein. You probably think this post is about you.
never ever ever use wood in a press for any reason! also, those washers on the lug studs are only there to keep the disc on during manufacturing. After the first brake job, they do not get reused.
I was wondering what those were...
Really effective,knowledge video.thank you
Well done! I'm hoping I can use sockets and sections of pipe to do my Mazda 3.
Skip to 9:57 for a laugh.
I've decided I will give the hub carriers to a shop and they can do the fun part for me.
I tried that but the criminals wanted $220 to do a set.
J Jack, they ripped me off $400🧐
@@lealofi55 wow, just to press the bearings?
J Jack, yeah it was my daughters car, but thanks for this video I know now what to do 🤣👍
your the boss man keep up the good work
yeah thebossman does keep up the good work.
I like how he has a nice lady next to him to instruct him on what to do next.
8:48 is the answer. Also, after 18:19 my reaction was "OH MY GOD WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU DOING". Never a good idea to use an impact for a wheel bearing.
Why?
@@davescott4065 Because it causes brinneling of the bearing races and leads to very premature failure.
Basically this taught me to buy the 10-12 ton press
Thank you i had issue getting it started sledgehammer worked
Very good video, just subscribed for more of the same ,
No messing straight to the point.
Enjoyed this a lot. You may have mentioned you need to place the magnetic side of the bearing on the inside--terrible mistake else no ABS capability afterwards....
the actuator for the ABS sensor is on the driveshaft
Love the extraordinary work bench !
I done a toyota corolla front wheel bearing with m30 all thread using washers I always clean prior opening any part of the car you will be amazed how things dismantle after cleaning with wire brush and wd40
You made it look so easy, what kind of lube? Any normal sticky red grease? Marine grease ect would work right? Even assembly lube or plain oil would work if its all u had right?
10:48 Would it be possible to heat up the housing? The following part with the tow hammers look adventurous to me.
How not to remove a bearing with a 6 ton press LMAO. Quality.
Should always buy a 12 ton press.6 ton will always struggle 👌
Do you think a 12 ton is plenty for an Accord? I'm looking at the 20 ton also but at 200 lbs (per the website) its just too big and heavy for my DIY liking. Thanks!
Супер !!))) Вот примерно с вашего я кое что возьму себе на заметку!! Молодец!! Лайк!!
i have a $25 bicycle bottom bracket tool that i used more than once to fit the bearing into the hub for my 350z.. and my old g35.. and these things often press on the edge of the bearing.. you have to apply pressure on the race..otherwise, the bearings can be loose and you will use up your axle real fast.
Don't press against the bolts. He should have turned the bearing splitter 90 degrees so the splitter takes the load not the clamping bolts.
Correct observation !!
Now I know why it costs so much to have a bearing fixed.
I was expecting the robot voice to say...call 911..hold pressure on wound...dont pass out.
Great video....WELL DONE!
When pushing back the calipers (around 19 mins into the video), did you remember to pop the bonnet and open the brake fluid reservoir cap, otherwise the fluid can burst at some point along the brake line (seen it happen).
The job is far too difficult for me, will go to the local mechanic instead. Bearings are tough.
Great video my pops showed me how to do this a long time a go
Put them bearings in the freezer a day Head of of replacing clean the and drop the bearings in
Great video. Thank you!
How to remove a ball bearing with a sledge hammer. The correct title!
Welcome back tuto
Все заибись но 6тон маловато для этих дел 🤔