My 2002 L6 5-speed manual on 33's with 3.73 gears was okay. But on the freeway, it was a slug, I couldn't use 5th gear in the city unless I was speeding or on the freeway. Regearing to 4.56 put it right back to a factory feel, 5th is usable again, and when cruising on the freeway at 65, I am right in the power band and don't have to downshift to pass someone. So yeah, you can get away with not regearing but you not only take a performance hit but my fuel efficiency got better when it drives the way it is supposed to. And yes, I changed the speedo gear...
With a manual trans...most people dont realize that for average driving and moderate wheeling, they have 5 regearing options on the fly at their disposal. I get regearing ( along with better axles and a host of other upgrades) a manual TJ for rock crawling or some other more extreme off-roading....but if your TJ is going to be daily driver with some weekend fishing and camping/beach duty...and its a manual with at least 3.73 gearing...stay with 33's and 2.5 lift
I had a 2000 With the 5speed and ran 32" with a 3.07 ratio then I went to a Currie 9" high pinion with 4.10s front and rear still running 32"s night and day difference torque down low plenty of pep great on the highway. I switched to 35 in tires and I loved them but it felt like I needed 4.56s or better to do what I need to do. If you are going slow and crawling in 4 wheel drive low you don't want to be using your clutch to very often you want to creep along. That's why rubicon's have an ultra low transfer case. 4" Skyjacker lift 1" body and Slip Yoke Eliminator kit because of driveline angle. 35" tires and a Dana 35 is a bomb waiting to happen if the tires slip and grip.
I run 3.73's on my JK with 35's, too. My buddy and I have a running joke about it. We were at King of the Hammers last year and he had had quite a few beers at this point, and he turned to me and said "You need to regear this thing, you know, if you want to wheel it" all while, we had been tearing through the desert in that very same Jeep all week in Johnson Valley, tons of wheeling, as well as having done the Rubicon many times in this same Jeep with my buddy riding shotgun, many offroad parks, etc. lol
Lol that's funny! I'm not against regearing at all. I'm just saying it's not required nor it is mandatory. The limiting factor is me not the jeep lol. Cheers bud!
@@vgullotta this is true. I love the way the tj feels with 3.73 and he manual. I wasn't too happy how it drove with the stock set up. Next time you go wheeling drop us a line! Cheers 🥂
You need to bumpstop as well. You are also wrong about regearing...I've ran 3 gear sets (3.72, 4.56, 5.13) and 4 sets of different tires (31, 33, 35, 37s) on my Jeep. If you are under geared you are pushing the motor harder to get up to speed, yes at highway only you can get some of that back but overall you will net worse MPG. If you are running an auto you also put considerably more strain on your transmission, look up trans temps pre-and post gearing.
Yeah, bumpstops are useful to prevent the shocks from bottoming out. As far as regearing, there are way too many variables in that setup. Higher rpm = more fuel.
@@Garagecouple yes while a higher RPM means more fuel, with higher gears, you do not need to rev the engine as high from start to get going. that is where cars are most fuel inefficient, in stop and go traffic. With a regear, you will get more power lower in the RPM range and thus use less fuel. The only difference is on the highway, where cars are already the most fuel efficient.
@@Dyrdeksk8r Regearing does not give you more power lower in the RPM range as you say. The purpose of regearing is to RAISE the rpm so you have more power.
@@Garagecouple Bumpstops also stop coil bind, and smashing into body panels. Higher RPM doesn't always equate to more fuel as a rule. This isn't just internet guessing, I've ran different gears/tires/engine setups on the same rig. There is a reason pros regear
I am getting a 4 inch rough country lift on my 05 wrangler rocky mountain edition. My brother in law has brand new 35 inch tires so now i need to find a rim to fit them. Rim size is 16.5. I was hesitant on doing that size since i will not be regearing. But I will not be doing to much off roading as often as I would want since i live in nebraska. You guys have a great channel!!!
Just got my first Jeep 1998 wrangler sport on 35’s when I got it the drive was squirly and hard the psi on the tires were at 35 psi. I’ve read that I should drop air in tires for softer ride but I am new to jeeps
Hi there! Congrats on the new jeep! Yeah, first thing I would do is drop the pressure to about 30 and do a front end alignment. You could also rotate the tires and go from there. Let me know if you have any questions! Congrats!
I would highly recommend wheeling with someone that is properly geared. Just let the clutch out and idle up and over nearly anything. It is not only part friendly, its a lot of fun. Under geared, and thats when you burn clutches and break u-joints or worse yet...you break an axel or ring & pinion. If you go fast enough, you can do it in 2 wheel drive, i get it. To each their own. I run 33's with 4:88 gears 6 speed manual. No myth about it. Low, and slow is the way to go.
I have an 05 (TJ) Wrangler with the 4.0L and 6spd manual trans and 3.07 gears. I've run 33 inch tires with a 2 inch body lift for 4 years with no issues. I'd like 2.5-3 inches more lift but don't want to get into having to mess with extending brake lines, dropping the trans, motor mounts, adding a SYE, etc. A friend of mine just offered to give me his stock springs and shock off of his JK Sahara Unlimited. What are your thoughts?
Hi there! I would remove the 2 inch body lift and replace it with a 1.25 inch. As far as the suspension i would also check the size of the springs. Each one is numbered.i think the 60 for the rear and 19 for the front is the jk spring that will give you the most lift. I would look for jk Rubicon shocks but that said and done you will get a few inches of lift from the swap. It takes a fair amount of modification to get them all to work but it could be done in an afternoon. Let us know if you have any questions!
@@Garagecouple After commenting, I found an 11 page post on this project on a Jeep forum. The original poster claiming he got 3 inches of lift had a 2.5 liter. Everyone who put the JKU 60/19 spring combo in their 4.0L actually lost 1-1.5 inches of height up front.
This was a VERY HELPFUL VIDEDO! I have a jeep on 33- I kept reading that I cant go to 35 without spending a fortune. I m glad to see a video showing off 35... I was concerned about the regearing and cost with it but if its fine for you its def fine for me! .... I was wondering about stock axles though??
This video underplays some VERY important details. If you drive it only on the street and you are ok with losing more power at highway speeds than you already lost with 33s, maybe. Probably need to drop your t-case to avoid vibration without an SYE. Most people don't like the lost power. You take it offroad, it's a different discussion entirely. A lot of stuff start breaking that were good enough before. mk319mod0's link before is a good one.
I'm not against regearing by any means.. In fact, we are regearing our JK very soon. Just wanted to make a video showing that it's possible to comfortably run 35s with a 4.0 MT on 3.73s. That's all. Cheers!
@@Garagecouple as @mk319mod0 stated you also missed critical info about properly supporting larger tires. You can put 40s on a stock axle and it will move but not efficiently.
@@jerseydevil7574 all I am trying to show is how to run 35s as cheaply as possible. Once you change the intended purpose of the video then obviously requirements will change as well. Thanks for watching.
@@Garagecouple i watched the video and appreciate the jeep enthusiasm. However, its not practicle to run 35's on stock gearing and axles. Trust me, i learned the hard way.lol. when i ran 35's on stock diffs, i constantly trashed spider gears and ring gears. As soon as i changed to 4:88 with a locker, i started popping axles. Now i have chromoly's and 4:88's with a locker and i havent had a problem since. Keep in mind that i was doing all this damage with a 2.5! Not gonna hate by no means cuz we gotta stick together but, it was becomng very expensive to do any offroading on stock diffs. I enjoy the videos but just kinda felt like u were misleading some newbies that may just b getting started. I suppose if u just want the looks, it would b fine but if u actually have to use it, its not gonna be what they expected. Its kinda like shoving a sock in your pants to look more endowed down there! Lol. Keep the videos coming guys, im gonna subscribe to help yall out. Anything for a fellow jeeper!
Man my 99 with the 4.0, 3 speed auto, 31s and 3:07 gears suck. I am desperately trying to find a D44 with 4:10s and either a matching front or have the front regeared. I think in my case it would help gas mileage especially if I went to 33's. A gear ratio that isn't excessive in RPMS and allows you to apply less throttle should increase MPGs
I drive my 2003 tj auto with a 4inch lift and 33s what helped my with gas mileage was changing my exhaust and my intake. Helping your motor breathe helps too atleast from what iv learned on my jeep
@@Garagecouple not always true. With highway driving - I could see that. But for hilly areas where you're having to push the go pedal deeper, like I have to do, you'll lose mpg. All re-gearing is, for many Jeepers running 33s and up, is to correct the losses. To make things right again. And then you have more serious off-roaders doing it to both gain torque and to slloowww the rig down on the trail - both of which it accomplishes. You're missing out on the true nature of Jeep crawling when you have tall tires and shi**y stock gears. And then there's the D35 issue, but that's for a different discussion.
I have a yj , 4.0, 5 speed , didnt regear, put a 4.5” lift and 2”body lift(I hate the body lift) I went to 35’s no regearing and it’s no issue for my jeep
I also have a 2004 Jeep Wrangler x on 35's my 5th gear can only be used going down hill or on completely flat road . Then it will stay at the speed I went into 5th on
The bigger your tires the heavier it is your engine have to work harder.. those of you think you can just put on big tires and not re-gear it is like trying to pedal a bike going uphill on high gear, that engine will burst into flame if you keep it up.
The only way you are going to up your mpg figures with re-gearing is if your engine is currently struggling to overcome some added weight/mass with larger wheels/tires being a factor. My '05 TJ 4.0, A/T, 3.73 gears and 33" tires attains 16.8 mpg currently...likely the sweet spot as far as mpg goes as equipped. Sure, 4.10 or 4.56 gears would result in snappier performance, but in this instance would in no way increase mpg figures. In overdrive at 55 mph the rpm is about 1500 with minimal throttle opening to maintain that on level grades. Gear for your driving needs, not just for some mpg fantasy...a re-gear cost will take years to recoup if you actually do manage a increase in mpg. Anything less than a 3.73 will suffer greatly from the addition of larger tires.
If your tires are rubbing on your track bar you have something REALLY wrong. lol I also expect you to make an updated video after regearing saying, "I was wrong, regearing is great".
@@Garagecouple if it makes you happy. But I'm the opposite. I prefer everything about a deeper gear ratio. More performance on road and much better off road.
Not picking on you or your channel but jeeps in a whole need CONSTANT work to keep them roadworthy I have been trying to video log the current project tj I have purchased from an original owner who cared only about looks and so on when you ignore anything on these jeeps and trust me I have built several they will fall apart with little to no warning
Regearing is essential let alone if youre going to be running spacers and wheeling pretty hard youre only bound to loose a axel sooner or later everything at very least should be made of 120 wall odm or chromoly
I have a 2001 TJ I bought with 35s on the stock 3.07 and it sucks on the highway I can’t even rev past like 2k rpm or go over 60 if I regar to 5.13 will this help I keep telling my dad this is the problem I asked my mechanic but he doesn’t know anything about this car it’s a 2001 4.0 3.07 32rh 35s thinking a regar is the reason
I'm halfway thru the video, so if you answered this please ignore, but what gearing did your TJ come with? Mine is a 97 and someone thought it a good idea to use 3.07 gearing, which is flat out awful especially with 33's. I THINK I'm going to regear to 4.56 which should also work if I jump to 35's. I have to grab 3rd gear on highway inclines to stay at 45mph.
@@Garagecouple - You should try driving the 3.07 on 33's. Why TF they went with that ratio is nuts. Currently on a budget (thanks Covid), so deciding on regearing the Dana 35 or spending more for the Dana 44...
Thank you for the feedback and support! Yes! We are slowly getting more gear.. Started as a hobby but now we are working on stream lining things.. Check out our first few videos.. We've come a ways lol
Thanks for the video, you have a great looking TJ! I had an 05 TJ X manual, and with 3.07 gear ratio, I almost never could use 5th gear driving with 31.5” tires. TJ was very slow/ sluggish on acceleration, and had awful fuel economy. In that case one has to regear (3.73 would’ve been great). Also saw that TJ’s with larger tires than 33’s, two friends bent axles while rock crawling (DANA 35 rear/ Dana 30 front axle). Lastly, I think that any TJ’s running around today need to be careful about lift kits, since budget lifts may alter the alignment/“footprint” of the Jeep and old steering/suspension parts mixed with new can increase chance of the dreaded “Death Wobble”.
@@Garagecouple how are your stock axles and drive shaft? I get a small amount of drive line vibration but I think my axles are ok. I have a set of 4340 27 spline just in case.
Can you provide the specer measurements please a have a 97 tj and I lifting my jeep 3.25 for a 35 inch tire and I think I will need the spacers thank you for the information
I have a 4 inch lift and want to put 35s. 6 speed manual 06 tj. Do I need body lift or wheel spacers? I am getting information on both angles where ppl say yes 1.25 body lift and would need to bend shifter. Would like to here your opinion @GarageCouple #GarageCouple
Hi there! You can probably get away without the body lift, but personally I would add the body lift to give you more wheel clearance over obstacles. It goes in easy enough and makes a pretty sizeable difference. They're also pretty cheap. We did a body lift on our Sahara and didn't have any issues with the shifter. You can either make new holes for the fan shroud or you can add a motor mount lift and keep the original holes. Both are solid options. Let us know if you have any questions and most importantly, enjoy the #jeeplife
Let me make sure I’m understanding your logic here. You think that running significantly larger and heavier tires and brakes, with an additional two inches on each hub that the power has to travel, on the lower stock gear ratio will get you the same gas mileage AND ALSO not significantly increase wear and tear on your hardware? Riiiiiiight. “Sounds rad to me” 😂👍🏼
Adding the tires will not conserve gas mileage unless you drive very carefully. We didn't notice a huge drop in mpgs. Anyway, title of the video is cheapest way to run 35s. We've been doing it this way for over 200k miles and haven't had any major issues at all. Your mileage may vary.
Have a 02 tj 4.0 stick. 35s and 4.10 gears. Wish it was geared lower. Its a little fast in technical stuff. If it was a little lower i could keep it in 2wd more.
@@dmahdmah86 i think mine was 3.73 stock i have 4.10 now. It will cruise in 5th but you wont be passing much. Im planning on 4.88 since i live in the mountains and dont get on the interstate with it. If i regear i will.let you know and have a set of 4.10 laying around
I'm sorry man I try not to comment on stuff most the time but there are a lot of dangerous things said in this video and a lot of inconsistencies. First, your Jeep is not a rubicon. Unless you put a Sahara body on a Rubicon frame and components. In which case you would have D44 Axles and 4.10 gears which would explain your 'non-issues' with your setup. Only upgrading your brake pads is not sufficient. It might work for a time or you might get lucky but I would not advertise this as sufficient. The mass of a 35'' tire without proper axle components is a huge problem. If you only drive on pavement then sure you can get by but on a D30 and D35 offroad, a 35'' will cause issues. Regearing is supposed to return your vehicle to as close to factory as possible. Again, your 3.73 might be suitable for YOU but they are not suitable for the way the 4.0 is designed to be run. Again, I get all of this can be a personal preference if you don't really care about the Jeep. But to advertise to a large community that these are acceptable accommodations could get some people into bad situations. Just to add....I hate being "one of those" guys on the internet. I love what you are trying to do with the Channel on UA-cam and how genuine you both seem. I wish you the best and really hope you take off. UA-cam takes a lot of work and isn't easy and you guys are doing great. Not trying to take any of that away from you. Just really felt in this video there are some safety things that could people in some serious trouble. My background is in Mechanical & Nuclear Engineering and I've had my '99 Jeep TJ for 15 years so I know a little bit about some of these things and really try my best not to speak out ignorance.
appreciate your feedback and support. Where did I claim this was a rubicon?? I agree to disagree, I care about the jeep and the drive, I just don't like having numerically high gears on my vehicles because I spend 90% of my time driving it on pavement, and unfortunately only 10% off road, if that. I can't sacrifice daily driving ability for the few and far in between.
@@Garagecouple In one of the comments below, someone asked if you did an SYE and you said you did not have to because it was a Rubicon and didn't have an SYE. Which is correct on the Rubicon models. I realize you sold the Jeep now. However, if you really did have the Sahara with 3.73 gears, then I am currently driving that exact vehicle. It's very hard to believe that 3.73 would not be a complete bog with 35s as I am currently running 31s with 3.73s and have a hard time climbing any kind of hill on the highway without downshifting. I just really wonder if you were one of the lucky few Sahara models that came with 4.10s or if the previous owner had them put on. Again, I'm really not arguing I've just never encountered anyone with 3.73 who had the pickup you had in your video with 35'' tires. I'm more just interested than anything and not trying to argue. As I said, I'm not that guy who just sets out on the internet to prove people wrong and I'm really enjoying your channel. I hope I haven't offended you in any way.
Ahh I see! On my end, it doesn't show which video the comment is on, I just see the comments, and I uploaded about a driveshaft super recently, and just assumed the comment was for that video. Didn't realize it was for this old video. Do you have an auto or a manual?
Also, no worries at all!you haven't offended us. I wish you were local and I still had this set up, I would let you drive it. We are running 4.10s on 38s on our rubicon and it feels GREAT. Caveat is it has to be stick. Autos change everything.
@@Garagecouple Oh gotcha that makes sense, it's hard to keep up with comments on UA-cam it can become a mess. And I've got the 5-speed manual. I"ve had it for about 15 years now. I definitely would have loved to give it spin in person but I guess I'll just have to let my curiosity run wild haha!
I went with the milestar Patagonia and since I had stock rims and a 10 inch tire I have to buy new rims as well since they only sell 12.5 in 33s and the back spacing on the stock rims is meant for smaller tires and I was already getting rub on my control arm
Hey i did a 4 inch rough country lift. I had 35s put on. When i went to go to reverse it had a grinding. It seemed like the shifter moved and is bound up on th3 bottom gears a bit. Have you trimmed your console to fix this or have you ever had this issue. I seen quite a few forums on it but no videos.
I did not do a body lift. I had a full suspension lift. But i read that the transfer case drop causes this. After a 4inch lift a sye should be done but some people are heating up the shifter or trimming the center console. Obviously this isn't something you have seen which sucks lol. But i love your guys videos!!!
You said you took a suspension from a 2015 Rubicon. Did you have to make any modifications or did it bolt up easily? How much lift did that change provide you?
It's minimal modification not alot. The rear springs need a small piece either cut off or bent to fit around the TJ bump stop. The shocks up front need the TJ bushing pressed in and the rear shock mounts at the axle need to be spread apart a little bit. There's tons of write ups on forums on how to do it. I'm looking at doing it myself as I feel factory Jeep components will be stronger than a cheap lift
We haven't made any off roading videos for our UA-cam channel since we started. We post our off road adventures on our Instagram @garagecouple. Rims are 15x8 :)
i think 4.56 gears would be much better for 35's 4.88's gears is more like 37's to 40's after 40's go with 5.13 gears also after 38 inch tires one ton axles would be much better too . with a 35 inch tires it is much better to have a long arm suspension for offroad use
@ JEEP YJ 4WD - For a 4.0L, 33"s = 4.88, 35"=5.13 are about perfect... for bigger than that, you'll want larger axles anyways. Most guys running 37+ are at 5.38 or deeper, depending on what they're running. Most Jeeps run HP front axles and D60HP fronts can't go deeper than 5.38, which is often why you'll see V8 swaps and multi-speed t-cases for added torque and gear reduction when the tires get real big.
Garage Couple thankyou for your reply i was wondering if i wanted to avoid the spacers can i get rims that are 15x10? im new to the clearance and sizes of wheels and tires. thankyou
I have a 2004 Jeep Wrangler X I'm running 35x12.5 R 15 no spacers needed if you know what your doing you wouldn't need spacers and why add a body lift when you can do it rite the 1st time. I can go on and on but hey it's your mall crawler and everyone does things different.
You WILL get better gas mileage AND better performance by regearing. The rpms may be higher, but the engine isn't working as hard and there is less throttle input through the gears and while cruising. More rpms, but the engine is not working as hard. You won't gain gas mileage if you over gear, which most of us do for crawling. I went from a 3.07 to a 4.88 gear on 33s 😂. Now 36s..
It's hard to do a complete apples to apples comparison. One would have to keep everything identical including the drive and all other variables and then only change the gearing. Theoretically it will lower the gas mileage but give you more performance. It all depends on how you drive them.
@@Garagecouple No it's not hard to do a comparison. Jeep owners do this everyday, thus why some reputable forums post real world details and facts on the subject. Daily drive a lifted jeep on 35s for months or years and then re-gear, no other variables change other than gearing, and it's proven time and time again. Proper gearing for oversized tires will have better performance and gas mileage. Most people that make these claims that stock gears provide better gas mileage are on a tight budget and trying to justify not re-gearing.
You don’t need a lift to run 35’s. Have 0 lift and run 35 km3s. Chris Durham runs 40’s with no lift. Regearing makes a huge difference and is well worth it.
Agreed about the lift. I totally understand why some regear. I personally prefer the drive of it without being regeared. We have a stock rubicon on 31s and I really dislike the drive feel. Too jumpy for me.
Garage Couple there’s just a lot of different variables. Stock fenders. Flat fenders. Hilined. Cut fenders. The rubicon also has a 4.1 transfer case so you can just crawl in low range on the trails. Makes it kind of nice. It all depends on what you’re using it for I suppose.
Exactly. We don't rock crawl. We don't enjoy it. Unfortunately our tj sahara spends most of its time on the road and highway and for that purpose 3.73 gears and the 35s with the manual transmission is pure amazingness
You need to re-gear because the larger tire package adds a lot of additional stress to the entire drive train. Larger tires without a re-gear means you lose the advantage of application of torque of which the entire system was built to deliver over the life of the vehicle. Due to a loss of application of torque, your engine needs to work harder (create more power) to maintain the same drivability. Imagine towing a trailer for the rest of the time you own the Jeep. You're going to need new bearing, clutch, etc, prematurely. Sure... you "can" drive it without a re-gear. You may even get 50,000 miles out of it (instead of 150,000-200,00), but that doesn't mean its a good idea.
Vehicle has over 265,000 miles. 250,000 of which on 35s without a regear. One clutch change at 230k miles and otherwise a problem free rig. Thanks for your insight but not necessarily true for our application.
I get that you think your Jeep has plenty of power.There are people who think a v6 mustang have has plenty of power.Horse power is subjective.As far as gearing when adding larger tires then stock, will decrease gas mileage and that’s a fact.An order to increase mileage you need to re gear.
Thank you for your feedback and support! Unfortunately it isn't as factual as you say. Lots of variables with mpg. If two identical set ups are running the same LOAD, the one at higher rpm will burn more fuel. Hence adding gears, making vehicles 10 speed, etc to lower the rpm at each given load.
Garage Couple your talking about sustained speed on the free way ok.Im saying accelerate and stoping repeat and repeated like most Jeep owners in counter.also you will have better acceleration with corrected gearing I say this because I’m a car tec and car tuner for more then twenty years
Of course you will have better acceleration! Thats the entire point of regearing:). But what you gain in acceleration you give up in economy. We have had all sorts of gear ratio 4.0 jeeps over the years. Based on physics and my personal experience the higher numeric geared ones get worse mpg..which is fine because they have more acceleration.
You're wrong about what will and will not increase fuel efficiency. Regearing will increase efficiency, because you will have more power lower in the RPM range, and therefore not need to rev the engine as high to start from a stop. You will be at a slightly higher RPM on the highway, but cars are already at their most efficient on the highway. Meanwhile, air intake and exhaust do way less for fuel efficiency. This is a good video, but you're information is incorrect.
Just because something is more efficient at a specific rpm does not mean it gets better mpg at a specific speed. Two different things. As the rpm increases, the hp and tq the engine makes increases, which requires more fuel And air.
Garage Couple you’re not thinking about this correctly. It has been proven that rehearing is more fuel efficient. Go look at the Trail Recon’s latest video. Also, you can’t change the hp and tq of an engine. Regearing just allows it to come at an earlier rpm, thus requiring less throttle, which means less and air and fuel.
What you're saying isn't correct and I am not sure you understood me. Every engine has a tq hp curve all relative to Rpm. An engine at 2k rpm makes less hp and tq than the same engine at 4k rpm.... The hp and tq you see when you buy a vehicle is actually max hp and tq at a specific rpm. So that being said, higher rpm =higher tq and hp, which is why we regear in the first place. But power is a result of the volume of air and fuel with the modifier being engine efficiency. An engine will always consume more fuel and more air at a higher rpm, even if it starts doing it more efficiently (relative to the hp and tq at that specific rpm). I hope this is helpful. I've read textbooks on this stuff.
Garage Couple I’m sorry man, but you’re still wrong. Watch Trail Recon’s video. Regearing allows you to get more power at a lower rpm. Which you just said, lower rpm=less fuel.
my TJ came stock with 3.09 gears, so it had to be regeared, so this is not a true video. Also not regearing does not hurt the axles, it mainly will burn out your clutch sooner, if you take it off road. unlike most people like you who never take it off road. Very bad video.
wow man really?? i hope nobody takes this advise, re gear on 35's may not be mandatory, but it's way easier on the drive train, without re gearing it doesn't put more strain on the axle shafts, it puts tons of stress on the spider and R&P.
He is absolutely not an engineer and has no understanding of how torque multiplication works and why lower gears ABSOLUTELY reduces chances of breakages downstream...
I call BS on running 3.73 gears with 35s and a 5 speed!!!!! Im running 3.73 gears with a 5 speed with a built 4.0 make more than stock power and the thing is GUTTLESS AS HELL!!!! 5th gear on the highway? Nope! 4th gear about 90% of the time. 5th gear your almost WOT to hold 70mph. I can watch my fuel gague go down doing that. LOL And off road? Total crap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Its geared to high, and you cant crawl anything. Its hard as hell on the clutch as well. And this on 33s!!!! I barrowed my buddies 35s for a minute and took it for a ride and WOW. Its BAD!!! 5th was 100% useless. And crawling? Forget about it. Your going wat to fast even in low range. 4WD high off road is 100% useless as well. WAY to fast now. I want to move to 35s and 100% you NEED to regear it even with the 5speed. And yes you WILL get better MPG after you regear it if you gear it correctly. When running 3.73s and 33s you loose mechanical advantage so any time your trying to gain speed the Engine basically thinks you have another 1,000lbs in the Jeep. By regearing it you reduce the load on the engine and there for will gain better MPG. When you run to low a gear Numerically you increase the stress on the trans, transfer case, clutch drive shafts, and engine. But you do reduce the stress on the axle shafts. You are just as likely to break something either way. Axle shafts are easier and cheaper to replace than a transmission!!! When you run to low a gear numerically you add stress and there for work load to the engine. Work load is fuel consumption. There is a sweet spot where you get decent MPG. From the factory they have the stock gearing in the spot. Changing the tires size takes it out of that spot. ON my last Jeep I had 35s and an AW4 auto in my XJ. It came stock with 3.73 gears also as it was a tow package version. (Some what rare). With the 3.73 gears it was a slug and got 9mpg average. After 5.13 gears it was like stock for power and did 15mpg average. Lot of bad info in the video.
This video should named how to build your jeep on a budget with no longevity 😂😂, your telling me your car pulls on the high way in 5th gear going 60mph ?
You failed to mention that with out regearing your performance will be simular to a seriously overloaded 4 banger. Jeeps are toys even if its your daily driver. Farmers may be the exception here. Jeeps can survive with poor gearing but they are slugs and not fun to drive. The jury is not still out on this point I will say that the excuses used to justify not regearing are only made by those who have not done so. Very telling.
We own 7 Jeeps. We have regeared some of them. What do you mean telling? How many jeeps have you owned? We probably have owned every engine/trans/gear ratio combo to exist and make the above recommendation based on that.
By telling I mean, no one that has regeared has come back and ever said wow I didn’t need to do that. I think you two are great and I love your channel but the people who do not re-gear normally do it because of cost not because of logic or what works. It’s at best a compromise. I should add that performance always takes precedence over appearance with me. I understand. This is not the norm with most jeepers today.
If you are going to use the jeep for what it was intended and perform like it did with stock tires you most definitely should regear. Also your little pavement driving test is completely meaningless. Also I have had jeeps and offloaded my entire life.
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Just wondering why you named your jeep Emanuel?
Lol we just joke around with the names :)
@@Garagecouple i had to say it lol
My 2002 L6 5-speed manual on 33's with 3.73 gears was okay. But on the freeway, it was a slug, I couldn't use 5th gear in the city unless I was speeding or on the freeway. Regearing to 4.56 put it right back to a factory feel, 5th is usable again, and when cruising on the freeway at 65, I am right in the power band and don't have to downshift to pass someone. So yeah, you can get away with not regearing but you not only take a performance hit but my fuel efficiency got better when it drives the way it is supposed to. And yes, I changed the speedo gear...
Whatever works thumbsup
With a manual trans...most people dont realize that for average driving and moderate wheeling, they have 5 regearing options on the fly at their disposal. I get regearing ( along with better axles and a host of other upgrades) a manual TJ for rock crawling or some other more extreme off-roading....but if your TJ is going to be daily driver with some weekend fishing and camping/beach duty...and its a manual with at least 3.73 gearing...stay with 33's and 2.5 lift
Have a 2003 Ruby on 35's. On the highway I sometimes feel I should get out and help push. Otherwise it's fine and dandy.
Nice! Yeah, it's completely reasonable especially if you have some air flow mods.
I always find myself using your channel for tutorials and jeep info. Thanks again for the content!
I had a 2000 With the 5speed and ran 32" with a 3.07 ratio then I went to a Currie 9" high pinion with 4.10s front and rear still running 32"s night and day difference torque down low plenty of pep great on the highway. I switched to 35 in tires and I loved them but it felt like I needed 4.56s or better to do what I need to do. If you are going slow and crawling in 4 wheel drive low you don't want to be using your clutch to very often you want to creep along. That's why rubicon's have an ultra low transfer case. 4" Skyjacker lift 1" body and Slip Yoke Eliminator kit because of driveline angle. 35" tires and a Dana 35 is a bomb waiting to happen if the tires slip and grip.
Very cool!
I run 3.73's on my JK with 35's, too. My buddy and I have a running joke about it. We were at King of the Hammers last year and he had had quite a few beers at this point, and he turned to me and said "You need to regear this thing, you know, if you want to wheel it" all while, we had been tearing through the desert in that very same Jeep all week in Johnson Valley, tons of wheeling, as well as having done the Rubicon many times in this same Jeep with my buddy riding shotgun, many offroad parks, etc. lol
Lol that's funny! I'm not against regearing at all. I'm just saying it's not required nor it is mandatory. The limiting factor is me not the jeep lol. Cheers bud!
@@Garagecouple I'll tell you, it would be great to go to 4.56, I think that would be perfect, but I love getting 20+mpg on the highway too lol
@@vgullotta this is true. I love the way the tj feels with 3.73 and he manual. I wasn't too happy how it drove with the stock set up. Next time you go wheeling drop us a line! Cheers 🥂
Lockers?
TJ Rubicon 5-speed manual, 35" tires 4.88 gearing.
The 6 speed makes a huge difference
@@Garagecouple Yeah, it would definitely improve my gas mileage.
I would recommend the very best updrade to do for the tj with 35 would be over the knuckle cross over steering kit and custom track bar
Nice, but not necessary at first
You need to bumpstop as well. You are also wrong about regearing...I've ran 3 gear sets (3.72, 4.56, 5.13) and 4 sets of different tires (31, 33, 35, 37s) on my Jeep. If you are under geared you are pushing the motor harder to get up to speed, yes at highway only you can get some of that back but overall you will net worse MPG. If you are running an auto you also put considerably more strain on your transmission, look up trans temps pre-and post gearing.
Yeah, bumpstops are useful to prevent the shocks from bottoming out. As far as regearing, there are way too many variables in that setup. Higher rpm = more fuel.
@@Garagecouple yes while a higher RPM means more fuel, with higher gears, you do not need to rev the engine as high from start to get going. that is where cars are most fuel inefficient, in stop and go traffic. With a regear, you will get more power lower in the RPM range and thus use less fuel. The only difference is on the highway, where cars are already the most fuel efficient.
@@Dyrdeksk8r Regearing does not give you more power lower in the RPM range as you say. The purpose of regearing is to RAISE the rpm so you have more power.
@@Garagecouple Bumpstops also stop coil bind, and smashing into body panels. Higher RPM doesn't always equate to more fuel as a rule. This isn't just internet guessing, I've ran different gears/tires/engine setups on the same rig. There is a reason pros regear
Need to regear an auto trans when running 31s with a 2.5 lift?
I have 110,000 miles on my TJ, I hope to get as much miles out of it as yours. Cheers.
Cheers!
I am getting a 4 inch rough country lift on my 05 wrangler rocky mountain edition. My brother in law has brand new 35 inch tires so now i need to find a rim to fit them. Rim size is 16.5. I was hesitant on doing that size since i will not be regearing. But I will not be doing to much off roading as often as I would want since i live in nebraska. You guys have a great channel!!!
Thanks for sharing and thanks for the kind words!
Just got my first Jeep 1998 wrangler sport on 35’s when I got it the drive was squirly and hard the psi on the tires were at 35 psi. I’ve read that I should drop air in tires for softer ride but I am new to jeeps
Hi there! Congrats on the new jeep! Yeah, first thing I would do is drop the pressure to about 30 and do a front end alignment. You could also rotate the tires and go from there. Let me know if you have any questions! Congrats!
Garage Couple would 25 psi be too low I am thinking that’s kind of a happy medium
@@joecostilla2858 I run 28 psi front and 26 psi rear
I have 38k miles on my 01. Safe to say it’s gonna be here a while
Nice!
I would highly recommend wheeling with someone that is properly geared. Just let the clutch out and idle up and over nearly anything. It is not only part friendly, its a lot of fun. Under geared, and thats when you burn clutches and break u-joints or worse yet...you break an axel or ring & pinion. If you go fast enough, you can do it in 2 wheel drive, i get it. To each their own. I run 33's with 4:88 gears 6 speed manual. No myth about it.
Low, and slow is the way to go.
We aren't against regearing. Our jk is regarded to 4.88. Just stating not necessary with the above engine transmission combo
I have an 05 (TJ) Wrangler with the 4.0L and 6spd manual trans and 3.07 gears. I've run 33 inch tires with a 2 inch body lift for 4 years with no issues. I'd like 2.5-3 inches more lift but don't want to get into having to mess with extending brake lines, dropping the trans, motor mounts, adding a SYE, etc. A friend of mine just offered to give me his stock springs and shock off of his JK Sahara Unlimited. What are your thoughts?
Hi there! I would remove the 2 inch body lift and replace it with a 1.25 inch. As far as the suspension i would also check the size of the springs. Each one is numbered.i think the 60 for the rear and 19 for the front is the jk spring that will give you the most lift. I would look for jk Rubicon shocks but that said and done you will get a few inches of lift from the swap. It takes a fair amount of modification to get them all to work but it could be done in an afternoon. Let us know if you have any questions!
@@Garagecouple After commenting, I found an 11 page post on this project on a Jeep forum. The original poster claiming he got 3 inches of lift had a 2.5 liter. Everyone who put the JKU 60/19 spring combo in their 4.0L actually lost 1-1.5 inches of height up front.
@@NathanaelPittman interesting. I got about 3 inches up front but used a 1 inch leveling kit after installing steel bumpers and a winch.
Are you used wheels spacers? Size?
This was a VERY HELPFUL VIDEDO! I have a jeep on 33- I kept reading that I cant go to 35 without spending a fortune. I m glad to see a video showing off 35... I was concerned about the regearing and cost with it but if its fine for you its def fine for me! .... I was wondering about stock axles though??
This video underplays some VERY important details. If you drive it only on the street and you are ok with losing more power at highway speeds than you already lost with 33s, maybe. Probably need to drop your t-case to avoid vibration without an SYE. Most people don't like the lost power. You take it offroad, it's a different discussion entirely. A lot of stuff start breaking that were good enough before. mk319mod0's link before is a good one.
I'm not against regearing by any means.. In fact, we are regearing our JK very soon. Just wanted to make a video showing that it's possible to comfortably run 35s with a 4.0 MT on 3.73s. That's all. Cheers!
@@Garagecouple as @mk319mod0 stated you also missed critical info about properly supporting larger tires. You can put 40s on a stock axle and it will move but not efficiently.
@@jerseydevil7574 all I am trying to show is how to run 35s as cheaply as possible. Once you change the intended purpose of the video then obviously requirements will change as well. Thanks for watching.
@@Garagecouple i watched the video and appreciate the jeep enthusiasm. However, its not practicle to run 35's on stock gearing and axles. Trust me, i learned the hard way.lol. when i ran 35's on stock diffs, i constantly trashed spider gears and ring gears. As soon as i changed to 4:88 with a locker, i started popping axles. Now i have chromoly's and 4:88's with a locker and i havent had a problem since. Keep in mind that i was doing all this damage with a 2.5! Not gonna hate by no means cuz we gotta stick together but, it was becomng very expensive to do any offroading on stock diffs. I enjoy the videos but just kinda felt like u were misleading some newbies that may just b getting started. I suppose if u just want the looks, it would b fine but if u actually have to use it, its not gonna be what they expected. Its kinda like shoving a sock in your pants to look more endowed down there! Lol. Keep the videos coming guys, im gonna subscribe to help yall out. Anything for a fellow jeeper!
Man my 99 with the 4.0, 3 speed auto, 31s and 3:07 gears suck. I am desperately trying to find a D44 with 4:10s and either a matching front or have the front regeared. I think in my case it would help gas mileage especially if I went to 33's. A gear ratio that isn't excessive in RPMS and allows you to apply less throttle should increase MPGs
Thing is, mpgs dont get better with a regear! Our JK lost about 2mpg after regearing. It's basic sense.
I drive my 2003 tj auto with a 4inch lift and 33s what helped my with gas mileage was changing my exhaust and my intake. Helping your motor breathe helps too atleast from what iv learned on my jeep
@@Garagecouple not always true. With highway driving - I could see that. But for hilly areas where you're having to push the go pedal deeper, like I have to do, you'll lose mpg.
All re-gearing is, for many Jeepers running 33s and up, is to correct the losses. To make things right again.
And then you have more serious off-roaders doing it to both gain torque and to slloowww the rig down on the trail - both of which it accomplishes.
You're missing out on the true nature of Jeep crawling when you have tall tires and shi**y stock gears.
And then there's the D35 issue, but that's for a different discussion.
@@PaulSterto each their own!
@@Garagecouple indeed
I have a yj , 4.0, 5 speed , didnt regear, put a 4.5” lift and 2”body lift(I hate the body lift) I went to 35’s no regearing and it’s no issue for my jeep
Nice! We are in the same boat!
I agree 1 have a 2004 Tj 35" tires and 3:73 gears and my 4 Low is super Low im happy with my gears
Awesome! Yes, for some people, its totally fine!
I've ran a 33 x12.5 on 3.07 gears on my old tj I did ok. 5th gear was useless but it's a toy so i didnt care
My 06 rubicon on 35s has 4.10 gears and 6 speed tranny great gearing combo!
I have 35’s on a TJ 4.0 with the manual & 5th gear is worthless
Time for a tune up!
I also have a 2004 Jeep Wrangler x on 35's my 5th gear can only be used going down hill or on completely flat road . Then it will stay at the speed I went into 5th on
I have a 2.5 auto on 31’s. All the gears are useless.
@@crabbypadty393 😂
just got a 2003 TJ, with the 4.0 and a 5 speed manual its my baby.. going to binge watch your channel lol
Aww! Congrats and enjoy!
Hey guys, where did you find those front turn signals and side reflectors, they look sick!
We made them! The full diy video is on our channel!
The bigger your tires the heavier it is your engine have to work harder.. those of you think you can just put on big tires and not re-gear it is like trying to pedal a bike going uphill on high gear, that engine will burst into flame if you keep it up.
The only way you are going to up your mpg figures with re-gearing is if your engine is currently struggling to overcome some added weight/mass with larger wheels/tires being a factor. My '05 TJ 4.0, A/T, 3.73 gears and 33" tires attains 16.8 mpg currently...likely the sweet spot as far as mpg goes as equipped. Sure, 4.10 or 4.56 gears would result in snappier performance, but in this instance would in no way increase mpg figures. In overdrive at 55 mph the rpm is about 1500 with minimal throttle opening to maintain that on level grades. Gear for your driving needs, not just for some mpg fantasy...a re-gear cost will take years to recoup if you actually do manage a increase in mpg. Anything less than a 3.73 will suffer greatly from the addition of larger tires.
What size spacer did you use?
2 inch
If your tires are rubbing on your track bar you have something REALLY wrong. lol I also expect you to make an updated video after regearing saying, "I was wrong, regearing is great".
Unfortunately that would never happen. We literally love the way it drives. In fact, we bought a stock rubicon and did not like the stock sensitivity
@@Garagecouple if it makes you happy. But I'm the opposite. I prefer everything about a deeper gear ratio. More performance on road and much better off road.
Yup. Personal preference
Not picking on you or your channel but jeeps in a whole need CONSTANT work to keep them roadworthy I have been trying to video log the current project tj I have purchased from an original owner who cared only about looks and so on when you ignore anything on these jeeps and trust me I have built several they will fall apart with little to no warning
That all being said you should pop open your diff covers look for wear also drive line angle wears u joints like no tomorrow
Thank you for the info! Yes, we have some gems on our hands. Have taken almost everything apart and put it back together. Cheers
Regearing is essential let alone if youre going to be running spacers and wheeling pretty hard youre only bound to loose a axel sooner or later everything at very least should be made of 120 wall odm or chromoly
Not essential! :)
I have a 2001 TJ I bought with 35s on the stock 3.07 and it sucks on the highway I can’t even rev past like 2k rpm or go over 60 if I regar to 5.13 will this help I keep telling my dad this is the problem I asked my mechanic but he doesn’t know anything about this car it’s a 2001 4.0 3.07 32rh 35s thinking a regar is the reason
What rpm are you turning at 70 in 5th. My 4.0 TJ with 33s is turning about 2,500-2,700 rpm. I’m the 3rd owner and don’t know if it was regeared.
70 in 5th is about 2100
Which wheel spacers did you get? There’s no information on any!
Funny I just found this video, what is your RPM at 65 miles an hour on the highway
can you send a link to the wheels that you have on the tj? I'm wondering the specs of the wheel (backspacing, etc). thanks!
It's rocktrix wheels. Just let them know we sent you and they'll hook or up
I'm halfway thru the video, so if you answered this please ignore, but what gearing did your TJ come with? Mine is a 97 and someone thought it a good idea to use 3.07 gearing, which is flat out awful especially with 33's. I THINK I'm going to regear to 4.56 which should also work if I jump to 35's. I have to grab 3rd gear on highway inclines to stay at 45mph.
Thanks for your support, it was the stock 3.73 gears, which was fine given its a manual. If it was an auto it would need a regear
@@Garagecouple - You should try driving the 3.07 on 33's. Why TF they went with that ratio is nuts. Currently on a budget (thanks Covid), so deciding on regearing the Dana 35 or spending more for the Dana 44...
Great vids. However...one mod for your camera is a cotton ball over the mic. Keep'em coming
Thank you for the feedback and support! Yes! We are slowly getting more gear.. Started as a hobby but now we are working on stream lining things.. Check out our first few videos.. We've come a ways lol
And yeah I'm getting the same milage 2001 4.0 5 speed
Nice! Cheers!
How about 37s?? Do I need to regear for 37s??
Yeah we would!
What axles did you have on your jeep with the 35?
Dana 44 and dana 30 front
Thanks for the video, you have a great looking TJ! I had an 05 TJ X manual, and with 3.07 gear ratio, I almost never could use 5th gear driving with 31.5” tires. TJ was very slow/ sluggish on acceleration, and had awful fuel economy. In that case one has to regear (3.73 would’ve been great). Also saw that TJ’s with larger tires than 33’s, two friends bent axles while rock crawling (DANA 35 rear/ Dana 30 front axle). Lastly, I think that any TJ’s running around today need to be careful about lift kits, since budget lifts may alter the alignment/“footprint” of the Jeep and old steering/suspension parts mixed with new can increase chance of the dreaded “Death Wobble”.
This is a great post, appreciate all of this information and agree with you completely!
I have 35s on a 4in sus lift, no regear and I run fine in Florida trails and mud.
Nice!
@@Garagecouple how are your stock axles and drive shaft? I get a small amount of drive line vibration but I think my axles are ok. I have a set of 4340 27 spline just in case.
Where did you get the led front markers in the thumbnail?! I haven't been able to find those in LED anywhere!?
We made them ourselves! Check out our how to video, right here ua-cam.com/video/2riVOolASmE/v-deo.html
Can you provide the specer measurements please a have a 97 tj and I lifting my jeep 3.25 for a 35 inch tire and I think I will need the spacers thank you for the information
1.5 inch spacers with -15mm offset rims
I have a 4 inch lift and want to put 35s. 6 speed manual 06 tj. Do I need body lift or wheel spacers? I am getting information on both angles where ppl say yes 1.25 body lift and would need to bend shifter. Would like to here your opinion @GarageCouple #GarageCouple
Hi there! You can probably get away without the body lift, but personally I would add the body lift to give you more wheel clearance over obstacles. It goes in easy enough and makes a pretty sizeable difference. They're also pretty cheap.
We did a body lift on our Sahara and didn't have any issues with the shifter. You can either make new holes for the fan shroud or you can add a motor mount lift and keep the original holes. Both are solid options. Let us know if you have any questions and most importantly, enjoy the #jeeplife
Are your rear tires bigger than your front ?
Nope!
How wide are your aftermarket rims?
Im not sure!
How did you adjust the Spedo? I cannot find any way to adjust it for 33"s on 4.0L 5spd with 3.7 gearing.
Check out our second to last episode. We used a speedohealer
Let me make sure I’m understanding your logic here. You think that running significantly larger and heavier tires and brakes, with an additional two inches on each hub that the power has to travel, on the lower stock gear ratio will get you the same gas mileage AND ALSO not significantly increase wear and tear on your hardware? Riiiiiiight.
“Sounds rad to me” 😂👍🏼
Adding the tires will not conserve gas mileage unless you drive very carefully. We didn't notice a huge drop in mpgs.
Anyway, title of the video is cheapest way to run 35s. We've been doing it this way for over 200k miles and haven't had any major issues at all. Your mileage may vary.
Garage Couple “your results may vary” 😂 you’re starting to sound like a pharmaceutical company.
Cool 😎
Have a 02 tj 4.0 stick. 35s and 4.10 gears. Wish it was geared lower. Its a little fast in technical stuff. If it was a little lower i could keep it in 2wd more.
Nice!
What ratio would you recommend? My 98 TJ 4.0 is stock gearing with 35s. 5th gear is pretty much useless on the freeway
Is it auto?
@@dmahdmah86 i think mine was 3.73 stock i have 4.10 now. It will cruise in 5th but you wont be passing much. Im planning on 4.88 since i live in the mountains and dont get on the interstate with it. If i regear i will.let you know and have a set of 4.10 laying around
@@Garagecouple autos are 3speed in tj i think so i assume stick
I'm sorry man I try not to comment on stuff most the time but there are a lot of dangerous things said in this video and a lot of inconsistencies. First, your Jeep is not a rubicon. Unless you put a Sahara body on a Rubicon frame and components. In which case you would have D44 Axles and 4.10 gears which would explain your 'non-issues' with your setup. Only upgrading your brake pads is not sufficient. It might work for a time or you might get lucky but I would not advertise this as sufficient. The mass of a 35'' tire without proper axle components is a huge problem. If you only drive on pavement then sure you can get by but on a D30 and D35 offroad, a 35'' will cause issues. Regearing is supposed to return your vehicle to as close to factory as possible. Again, your 3.73 might be suitable for YOU but they are not suitable for the way the 4.0 is designed to be run. Again, I get all of this can be a personal preference if you don't really care about the Jeep. But to advertise to a large community that these are acceptable accommodations could get some people into bad situations.
Just to add....I hate being "one of those" guys on the internet. I love what you are trying to do with the Channel on UA-cam and how genuine you both seem. I wish you the best and really hope you take off. UA-cam takes a lot of work and isn't easy and you guys are doing great. Not trying to take any of that away from you. Just really felt in this video there are some safety things that could people in some serious trouble. My background is in Mechanical & Nuclear Engineering and I've had my '99 Jeep TJ for 15 years so I know a little bit about some of these things and really try my best not to speak out ignorance.
appreciate your feedback and support. Where did I claim this was a rubicon??
I agree to disagree, I care about the jeep and the drive, I just don't like having numerically high gears on my vehicles because I spend 90% of my time driving it on pavement, and unfortunately only 10% off road, if that. I can't sacrifice daily driving ability for the few and far in between.
@@Garagecouple In one of the comments below, someone asked if you did an SYE and you said you did not have to because it was a Rubicon and didn't have an SYE. Which is correct on the Rubicon models.
I realize you sold the Jeep now. However, if you really did have the Sahara with 3.73 gears, then I am currently driving that exact vehicle. It's very hard to believe that 3.73 would not be a complete bog with 35s as I am currently running 31s with 3.73s and have a hard time climbing any kind of hill on the highway without downshifting. I just really wonder if you were one of the lucky few Sahara models that came with 4.10s or if the previous owner had them put on. Again, I'm really not arguing I've just never encountered anyone with 3.73 who had the pickup you had in your video with 35'' tires. I'm more just interested than anything and not trying to argue. As I said, I'm not that guy who just sets out on the internet to prove people wrong and I'm really enjoying your channel. I hope I haven't offended you in any way.
Ahh I see! On my end, it doesn't show which video the comment is on, I just see the comments, and I uploaded about a driveshaft super recently, and just assumed the comment was for that video. Didn't realize it was for this old video. Do you have an auto or a manual?
Also, no worries at all!you haven't offended us. I wish you were local and I still had this set up, I would let you drive it. We are running 4.10s on 38s on our rubicon and it feels GREAT. Caveat is it has to be stick. Autos change everything.
@@Garagecouple Oh gotcha that makes sense, it's hard to keep up with comments on UA-cam it can become a mess. And I've got the 5-speed manual. I"ve had it for about 15 years now. I definitely would have loved to give it spin in person but I guess I'll just have to let my curiosity run wild haha!
Are those E rated? I got bfg ko2s e rated and they are WAY too heavy
They are c rated (highly recommend)
The km2s are discontinued I had one that was feathered so I wanted to buy a new tire but sadly found out that the km3 are only ones available
Yeah that's correct. I love the km2s. Looking to switch to another tire soon! Stay tuned
I went with the milestar Patagonia and since I had stock rims and a 10 inch tire I have to buy new rims as well since they only sell 12.5 in 33s and the back spacing on the stock rims is meant for smaller tires and I was already getting rub on my control arm
Hey i did a 4 inch rough country lift. I had 35s put on. When i went to go to reverse it had a grinding. It seemed like the shifter moved and is bound up on th3 bottom gears a bit. Have you trimmed your console to fix this or have you ever had this issue. I seen quite a few forums on it but no videos.
Did you do a body lift? A suspension loft shouldn't change the geometry of the shifter.
I did not do a body lift. I had a full suspension lift. But i read that the transfer case drop causes this. After a 4inch lift a sye should be done but some people are heating up the shifter or trimming the center console. Obviously this isn't something you have seen which sucks lol. But i love your guys videos!!!
Hi! Yes if you drop the t case this could happen! We recommend a sye! Cheers
You said you took a suspension from a 2015 Rubicon. Did you have to make any modifications or did it bolt up easily? How much lift did that change provide you?
It takes quite a lot of modification with the shock mounts as well as the rear springs. But it gave us about 3 inches
It's minimal modification not alot. The rear springs need a small piece either cut off or bent to fit around the TJ bump stop. The shocks up front need the TJ bushing pressed in and the rear shock mounts at the axle need to be spread apart a little bit. There's tons of write ups on forums on how to do it. I'm looking at doing it myself as I feel factory Jeep components will be stronger than a cheap lift
very helpful info
Do you have Any videos of this jeep on the trail in this configuration?
I don't see any.
P.S. how wide are the rims?
We haven't made any off roading videos for our UA-cam channel since we started. We post our off road adventures on our Instagram @garagecouple. Rims are 15x8 :)
Did you put a slip yoke eliminator
Its a rubicon. No slip yoke to eliminate
@@Garagecouple Rubicons don't have side steps, 3.73 gears etc. Am I missing something here??
???
Ty very much
Very welcome !
would you recommend re gearing on a manual 2.5 4cyl
What tire size ? 35? Then yes!
For 35s I would say 5.13 gears or 4.88
i think 4.56 gears would be much better for 35's 4.88's gears is more like 37's to 40's after 40's go with 5.13 gears also after 38 inch tires one ton axles would be much better too . with a 35 inch tires it is much better to have a long arm suspension for offroad use
Thanks for the suggestions
@
JEEP YJ 4WD - For a 4.0L, 33"s = 4.88, 35"=5.13 are about perfect... for bigger than that, you'll want larger axles anyways. Most guys running 37+ are at 5.38 or deeper, depending on what they're running. Most Jeeps run HP front axles and D60HP fronts can't go deeper than 5.38, which is often why you'll see V8 swaps and multi-speed t-cases for added torque and gear reduction when the tires get real big.
can you please tell me the exact dimensions of your rims thankyou great video
15x8 with 2 inch spacers
Garage Couple thankyou for your reply i was wondering if i wanted to avoid the spacers can i get rims that are 15x10? im new to the clearance and sizes of wheels and tires. thankyou
No problem! You gotta look at back spacing to figure out how much you want the wheels to poke out so you can turn without rubbing.
Btw what happened to this jeep. Did it breakdown. I haven’t seen this in the new episodes.
Nope! We sold it 4 years ago
I have a 2004 Jeep Wrangler X I'm running 35x12.5 R 15 no spacers needed if you know what your doing you wouldn't need spacers and why add a body lift when you can do it rite the 1st time. I can go on and on but hey it's your mall crawler and everyone does things different.
These aren't myths, this guy loves in a flat area with little hills and no mountains
You WILL get better gas mileage AND better performance by regearing. The rpms may be higher, but the engine isn't working as hard and there is less throttle input through the gears and while cruising. More rpms, but the engine is not working as hard. You won't gain gas mileage if you over gear, which most of us do for crawling. I went from a 3.07 to a 4.88 gear on 33s 😂. Now 36s..
It's hard to do a complete apples to apples comparison. One would have to keep everything identical including the drive and all other variables and then only change the gearing. Theoretically it will lower the gas mileage but give you more performance. It all depends on how you drive them.
@@Garagecouple No it's not hard to do a comparison. Jeep owners do this everyday, thus why some reputable forums post real world details and facts on the subject. Daily drive a lifted jeep on 35s for months or years and then re-gear, no other variables change other than gearing, and it's proven time and time again. Proper gearing for oversized tires will have better performance and gas mileage. Most people that make these claims that stock gears provide better gas mileage are on a tight budget and trying to justify not re-gearing.
You don’t need a lift to run 35’s. Have 0 lift and run 35 km3s. Chris Durham runs 40’s with no lift. Regearing makes a huge difference and is well worth it.
Agreed about the lift. I totally understand why some regear. I personally prefer the drive of it without being regeared. We have a stock rubicon on 31s and I really dislike the drive feel. Too jumpy for me.
Garage Couple there’s just a lot of different variables. Stock fenders. Flat fenders. Hilined. Cut fenders. The rubicon also has a 4.1 transfer case so you can just crawl in low range on the trails. Makes it kind of nice. It all depends on what you’re using it for I suppose.
Exactly. We don't rock crawl. We don't enjoy it. Unfortunately our tj sahara spends most of its time on the road and highway and for that purpose 3.73 gears and the 35s with the manual transmission is pure amazingness
I just noticed you only have 1 side step
That's true! Just on aleens side :)
@@Garagecouple I want to remove mine as my driver side seems to be droopy and the nut holding it on is just spinning :(
@@Godhorse6969 Oh man! Worst case just dremel it off! Good luck and let us know if you need anything!
You need to re-gear because the larger tire package adds a lot of additional stress to the entire drive train. Larger tires without a re-gear means you lose the advantage of application of torque of which the entire system was built to deliver over the life of the vehicle. Due to a loss of application of torque, your engine needs to work harder (create more power) to maintain the same drivability. Imagine towing a trailer for the rest of the time you own the Jeep. You're going to need new bearing, clutch, etc, prematurely. Sure... you "can" drive it without a re-gear. You may even get 50,000 miles out of it (instead of 150,000-200,00), but that doesn't mean its a good idea.
Vehicle has over 265,000 miles. 250,000 of which on 35s without a regear. One clutch change at 230k miles and otherwise a problem free rig. Thanks for your insight but not necessarily true for our application.
@@Garagecouple sorry... but I'm calling BS, and you're giving people bad advice. You should stop.
@@marcspaz agree to disagree. Thanks for watching.
I have a 99 4.0 with 30-in tall tires on it I can't pass anybody on the highway it barely will go up a slight incline it's pathetic
Auto or manual? What gear ratio?
Come on Greg you still had the hook on your hat from the store. 😂 I enjoy the videos tho
Haha! Good catch, I realized after I finished filming and was hoping it wouldn't be obvious! Lol! Thanks for your support and all the best 🍻
WIND NOISE... NEED A MICROPHONE..!
Sorry about that, thank you for the tip!
I get that you think your Jeep has plenty of power.There are people who think a v6 mustang have has plenty of power.Horse power is subjective.As far as gearing when adding larger tires then stock, will decrease gas mileage and that’s a fact.An order to increase mileage you need to re gear.
Thank you for your feedback and support! Unfortunately it isn't as factual as you say. Lots of variables with mpg. If two identical set ups are running the same LOAD, the one at higher rpm will burn more fuel. Hence adding gears, making vehicles 10 speed, etc to lower the rpm at each given load.
Garage Couple your talking about sustained speed on the free way ok.Im saying accelerate and stoping repeat and repeated like most Jeep owners in counter.also you will have better acceleration with corrected gearing I say this because I’m a car tec and car tuner for more then twenty years
Of course you will have better acceleration! Thats the entire point of regearing:). But what you gain in acceleration you give up in economy. We have had all sorts of gear ratio 4.0 jeeps over the years. Based on physics and my personal experience the higher numeric geared ones get worse mpg..which is fine because they have more acceleration.
Garage Couple On the “freeway”
Your hat has the hanger still on it
This is true
You're wrong about what will and will not increase fuel efficiency. Regearing will increase efficiency, because you will have more power lower in the RPM range, and therefore not need to rev the engine as high to start from a stop. You will be at a slightly higher RPM on the highway, but cars are already at their most efficient on the highway. Meanwhile, air intake and exhaust do way less for fuel efficiency. This is a good video, but you're information is incorrect.
Just because something is more efficient at a specific rpm does not mean it gets better mpg at a specific speed. Two different things. As the rpm increases, the hp and tq the engine makes increases, which requires more fuel And air.
Garage Couple you’re not thinking about this correctly. It has been proven that rehearing is more fuel efficient. Go look at the Trail Recon’s latest video. Also, you can’t change the hp and tq of an engine. Regearing just allows it to come at an earlier rpm, thus requiring less throttle, which means less and air and fuel.
What you're saying isn't correct and I am not sure you understood me. Every engine has a tq hp curve all relative to Rpm. An engine at 2k rpm makes less hp and tq than the same engine at 4k rpm.... The hp and tq you see when you buy a vehicle is actually max hp and tq at a specific rpm. So that being said, higher rpm =higher tq and hp, which is why we regear in the first place. But power is a result of the volume of air and fuel with the modifier being engine efficiency. An engine will always consume more fuel and more air at a higher rpm, even if it starts doing it more efficiently (relative to the hp and tq at that specific rpm). I hope this is helpful. I've read textbooks on this stuff.
Garage Couple I’m sorry man, but you’re still wrong. Watch Trail Recon’s video. Regearing allows you to get more power at a lower rpm. Which you just said, lower rpm=less fuel.
Regearing does not give you more power at less rpm.
my TJ came stock with 3.09 gears, so it had to be regeared, so this is not a true video. Also not regearing does not hurt the axles, it mainly will burn out your clutch sooner, if you take it off road. unlike most people like you who never take it off road. Very bad video.
Lol trash comment
wow man really?? i hope nobody takes this advise, re gear on 35's may not be mandatory, but it's way easier on the drive train, without re gearing it doesn't put more strain on the axle shafts, it puts tons of stress on the spider and R&P.
We have 7 jeeps. Some regeared some not. The title of this video was meant to be specific to the transmission /engine/tire size combo.
I can tell you are not an engineer.. Can you calculate maths?
Nopes
He is absolutely not an engineer and has no understanding of how torque multiplication works and why lower gears ABSOLUTELY reduces chances of breakages downstream...
Literally no issues whatsoever. So many folks swear one way when they have never done it that way...
the fucking wind noise
I call BS on running 3.73 gears with 35s and a 5 speed!!!!!
Im running 3.73 gears with a 5 speed with a built 4.0 make more than stock power and the thing is GUTTLESS AS HELL!!!!
5th gear on the highway? Nope! 4th gear about 90% of the time.
5th gear your almost WOT to hold 70mph. I can watch my fuel gague go down doing that. LOL
And off road? Total crap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Its geared to high, and you cant crawl anything. Its hard as hell on the clutch as well.
And this on 33s!!!! I barrowed my buddies 35s for a minute and took it for a ride and WOW.
Its BAD!!! 5th was 100% useless.
And crawling? Forget about it. Your going wat to fast even in low range. 4WD high off road is 100% useless as well. WAY to fast now.
I want to move to 35s and 100% you NEED to regear it even with the 5speed.
And yes you WILL get better MPG after you regear it if you gear it correctly.
When running 3.73s and 33s you loose mechanical advantage so any time your trying to gain speed the Engine basically thinks you have another 1,000lbs in the Jeep. By regearing it you reduce the load on the engine and there for will gain better MPG.
When you run to low a gear Numerically you increase the stress on the trans, transfer case, clutch drive shafts, and engine. But you do reduce the stress on the axle shafts. You are just as likely to break something either way. Axle shafts are easier and cheaper to replace than a transmission!!!
When you run to low a gear numerically you add stress and there for work load to the engine. Work load is fuel consumption. There is a sweet spot where you get decent MPG. From the factory they have the stock gearing in the spot. Changing the tires size takes it out of that spot.
ON my last Jeep I had 35s and an AW4 auto in my XJ. It came stock with 3.73 gears also as it was a tow package version. (Some what rare).
With the 3.73 gears it was a slug and got 9mpg average.
After 5.13 gears it was like stock for power and did 15mpg average.
Lot of bad info in the video.
dude..you have good content.. but you have to invest in some better sound technology.. this video is nearly unwatchable because of the wind noise.
Appreciate the feedback! Thank you for the support! 🍻
This video should named how to build your jeep on a budget with no longevity 😂😂, your telling me your car pulls on the high way in 5th gear going 60mph ?
100% it does
Man your audio is killing me... the wind mostly
We have come a long way!
You failed to mention that with out regearing your performance will be simular to a seriously overloaded 4 banger. Jeeps are toys even if its your daily driver. Farmers may be the exception here. Jeeps can survive with poor gearing but they are slugs and not fun to drive. The jury is not still out on this point I will say that the excuses used to justify not regearing are only made by those who have not done so. Very telling.
We own 7 Jeeps. We have regeared some of them. What do you mean telling? How many jeeps have you owned? We probably have owned every engine/trans/gear ratio combo to exist and make the above recommendation based on that.
By telling I mean, no one that has regeared has come back and ever said wow I didn’t need to do that. I think you two are great and I love your channel but the people who do not re-gear normally do it because of cost not because of logic or what works. It’s at best a compromise. I should add that performance always takes precedence over appearance with me. I understand. This is not the norm with most jeepers today.
If you are going to use the jeep for what it was intended and perform like it did with stock tires you most definitely should regear. Also your little pavement driving test is completely meaningless. Also I have had jeeps and offloaded my entire life.
Ehh it is all preference
Clueless
The worst thing on any video is wind noise, please get a wind sock for your microphone. Turn me off your channel.
Sorry about that! Yes, we have since gotten a wind sock..this was an earlier video. Appreciate the feedback!
Any issues with driveshaft vibration after the lift?
Thanks
None!