What You Need to Run 37" Tires
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- Опубліковано 9 бер 2018
- I went and upgraded my tires to 37’s and now my Jeep Wrangler JK modification to-do list just got a whole lot longer. So in this video I’m going to share with you my plan for all the necessary upgrades I’ve got to do now.
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So when you go with bigger tires you are putting a lot more stress on your vehicle (your suspension has a lot more weight to deal with and your engine and drive line have to work harder to turn that new rotating mass) and for Jeep JK owners there are a few important upgrades that should really be considered when going with 37’s.
Now my Jeep is the Rubicon version and does have dana 44’s and they are a great axel, but they still need to beefed up a little to ensure I make it home safely off the trail. Ideally I’d love to have some big, strong dana 60 axels and call it good, but at 13k + it’s just not in the budget.
• But before we talk about axles, I know I’m going to get a few question about my lift. If you remember, when I installed the Rock Krawler overland lift kit and it had 3.5” in the rear and 2.5” in the front. The extra height in the rear is meant to compensate for tent, roof rack and all your load out gear on long trips. But when I have it fully loaded out, I just don’t see a big drop in the rear…maybe a slight drop, but not enough to warrant a full 1” extra in the rear. So I swapped out the front springs and now have 3.5” all around. ($170)
• Add another puck to my bump stops
• But bumping my lift means I need exhaust spacers or new drive shafts….. so I ordered some exhaust spacers ($40), but there is no doubt in my mind that the best way to go is new drive shaft. They will be strong and ….. when the budgets allows I will replace the drive shafts ($1000)
• Tire carrier I have received so many comments from you guys about needing to replace my tire carrier when I was running 35’s and I just kept putting it off. Now with 37’s, it’s the next on the list so I don’t break the stock hinges on my tailgate. There are three types of tire carriers, one that mount to where your existing one, ne that is incorporated with the bumper and one that is body mounted. I have been wanting to get new bumpers and haven’t decided if I’m going to get a rear bumper with an integrated tire carrier or not. A bumper/tire carrier combo is well over $1000 or just a tire carrier can be had for about $500 bucks… I’m still researching.
• C-gussets - (the end forging of the axle) these are an easy and inexpensive way to add some strength to my axles. They have to be welded on, so there will be that added cost. ($70, and I’m going to pay to have those professionally welded up , so $2-300)
• Heavy duty ball joints, these have over 60,000 miles on them with 35’s $500 and I have a friend that has the tools to do this or I may just have the shop do them when they do the C-gussets You can buy rebuildable ball joints which are a great option, but they are twice the cost.
• Front and rear chromoly axels ($1000 + labor)
• Axle Sleeves: Goes inside the axle housing and is designed to add strength…… I’m not sure If I’m going to do this or not, because there is a lot of debate out there if a dana44 really benefits from them… $300 (when you upgrade your axles, this is a good time to sleeve them to save on labor.)
• Axle Truss: So a truss is an external brace that gets welded to the axle housing. There is something that needs to be done by a shop with experience. I may do a truss down the road, but it’s not an immediate requirement for me, as I know many guys that are running 37’s on dana 44’s without them. Parts: $130, Labor $3-500
• Big Brakes: I’ve lost stopping power with these heavy beadlocks already, but it’s been amplified by these tires. I’m not sure yet what brake kit I’m gong with, but it’s a priority. They can run anywhere from $1000-$3000 - Авто та транспорт
You can check out what gears I ended up going with in this video: ua-cam.com/video/dUfbXiXB4ik/v-deo.html
TrailRecon
Hey look into the 4LO gear and tire chart, 4.27/4.56 gears
You know from 35 to 37 you only add 1” more clearance
@@thatmar1neguy Sorta. Most "35s" are are 33.5 inches tall and most "37s" are 36 inches tall, it's more significant than from "33" to "35". It gets crazier if you run a tire that is almost completely true to size like Patagonias, which with no vehicle weight are closer to 36.5 inches tall.
What was the cost of all these needed mods to safely run 37s?
Makes going that big quite an investment...
Glad I watched this now I'm sure I can't afford 37s.
Don’t let it discourage you that much. I would say regear and you will be ok
Regear and go for it
LOL! Although I have Dana 44's and 4.10 gearing, my KMC's only allow my current 315x12.50x17, so if I go to 37's, I'd need rims too!
Just do it, I went from 33s to 37s. I just installed a trus kit on my front dana 30 differential, with 4.10 gears. Also, i have a flashcal, so that gave me more advantage. I've been running them for over a year now, and I haven't had any complain. I will go for 4.88 gears.
Kristian Castillo I also have 33 and was thinking about 37’s. I know I need to regear. What trus kit did you get. Did you get anything else? I have 2.5” lift. Thanks
Title should be "How to scare people from getting 37' tires" haha. But in all seriousness, thanks for the open commentary on what is necessary. Most people will just tell you, new gears and you're good to go!
hahaha but its all good things to think about if your planning to make that switch
If you plan to keep the jeep on pavement and well graded dirt roads then yes just slap some new gears and larger brakes. But if you want peace of mind off-road go the limit on upgrades. Break an axle housing on the trail and you would gladly pay double for bigger/upgrade housing on the spot.
That's why I went with one tons and hydro assist, peace of mind. (peace through strength)
Sounds like $4k in upgrades to run the tires.
If you just do the gears you open yourself for some broken parts down the road. If you are going to keep your jeep for a long time don't nickel and dime it, you will regret it down the road and the bill will end up higher!
1. brakes - safety
2. Hydro assist - safety
3. C Gussets - durability
4. Gears - quality of life
5. Everything else - just do it as it breaks, personal preference, whatever.
I was looking at hydro assist and contacted PSC directly to speak with them. They recommended hydro with 40" or bigger tires. For 37" tires they offer the XD Big Bore steering box. I went that route along with the upgraded steering pump and you can turn the wheel with a pinky.
My gear box went out
Steven Kane yeah hydro assist is way too much for 37s
@@ivanfromtheeast4709 I cracked my steering sector shaft housing with 37" you do need a hydro-assist stock one is not made to handle that much. I don't blame Jeep they never built these to go above 32" tires 35" is a stretch. When you go larger adding lot of leverage like a breaker bar what happens is if your bouncing up some rocks take a hit on the front side of the tire snap that sector shaft housing. If you all you do drive around town with 37" tires never have issues if you want to do some rock climbing with it only a matter of time.
@@Mike-01234 what kinda jeep you have a CJ5💀. I’ve used hydro on 37s it sucks
Really living up to "Jeep = Just empty every pocket!"
Mike Rich 6
JEEP=Just enough essential parts
Mike Rich 1000$ for a axle?...try owning a Subaru, 1000$ will get you a lug nut..
Mike Poor
Thanks for the video. You don't often hear people talking about the nuts and bolts of bigger tires like you have here. You're really helping out those who don't know any better that you can't just slap monster tires on your rig without considering what impact it is going to have on your suspension, gearing, power, mpg, etc.
Thank you Brad! finally got a 37"s informative video, nice job!
I have the Fox stabilizer as well. Love it. Went through 3 other brands, one per year till the Fox. I have 5.13 gears (4 years old). Love them. Currently running 35's but replacing with 37's next week (2.5 inch front 4.5 rear-going to 4 inch all around). I've seen a few bent axles so I did gussets, c brackets, chromoly axles. Big brakes on the rear. I have spintech locking hubs which I absolutely love-unlocking the front axle lets me run in 2 wheel low with a locker on when needed and I rarely need to run all 4 tires. But it requires 5 on 5.5 wheels. so had to change that and can't find a big brake for the front yet. I am in Utah so run the trails in Moab without any problems but I cut hundreds of pounds by going aluminum on everything I could which completely changed the drive-ability so I have no problems with the gears breaking. I just don't bounce it when going over obstacles. I crawl over them with the help of a little Moab bump. Replaced my drag link and tie rod and ball joints after bending them with 35s. I have wondered if I would make a mistake going to 37s but looking forward to it. I would say the 5.13's and locking hubs were my favorite upgrades because of what they allowed me to do with the jeep (2011 JKU).
I'm running 5.13 and love them.
Good video as always, I've been running 37's for 2 yrs now with stock 4:10s no issues. I have put on Artec front armour and rear trust. I replaced the stock ball joints and u-joints with alloy USA. Also replaced the brakes with power stop Extreme and put on a Fox steering stabilizer. I love running 37's and this year will put in 3.5 RK coils & take out my 2.5 RK and install a JE REEL front driveshaft. Now I have put in a lot of time & money into my Jeep but I love wheelin and working on my jeep! I have more mods on the way lol, my UA-cam channel is not as good as Brad's here on TrailRecon but I am trying lol. Hope when I get down to southern California I can wheel with you all! Lee.
3.6L 6 spd running 4.88 on 37” BFG krawlers And love it. Geared for dual purpose and performs flawlessly. Being a standard is probably why it works for me with the tighter gear ratios
I'm running 5.13's with a 6 speed Rubicon, and absolutely love them. I have a friend running 37's with an auto, Sport, and is happy. With the Rubicon transfer case, you'll be good with 4.88's
We're running 35's for now but will be going to 37's soonish. We have already upgraded our axle shafts and gearing to 5:13 and everyone that i know that runs 37's now says they like the 5:13 gear ratio. We have several Jeep shops around here also that recommend the same, Although as brad said in the video you can get away with either. Good luck with the upgrades, these dang jeeps never stop sucking money haha.
I went to 37’s on a 4dr Rubicon hard rock. Just saw your video for the first time. I used 4:88 gears because they most resemble stock and mine is a daily driver. It runs great, in fact I just drove from San Diego to Alaska and back this summer. I like the fox ATS stabilizer. I have gussets and Synergy axle sleeves. I also added Teraflex big break kit with the double piston calipers on the front. So far so good.
I was having a hard time deciding between 35's and 37's. Now that I've watched this video dilemma/problem solved...It's 35's all the way now. Along the lines of the zen like comment from Mr. Kevin Durham below...There is no way I can afford the 37 upgrades (at least there is no way I would be able to afford to do it right). Thanks alot Brad damnit!!! LOL.
I've got 35's..and it doesn't affect tranny shifting and mpg too noticeably..
Great video, love your channel Brad!!! This question is on everyone’s mind when they talk 37’s, what gearing to use. I can honestly tell you that I have never heard anyone ever complain about having 5:13 gears, but have heard regrets from those that have gone with the 4:88. If your Jeep only went off road here and there it probably wouldn’t matter, but if your going to do it right with no regrets the 5:13’s would be my choice every time.
Ah, you've opened the Can of Worms that comes with every Jeep! LOL
Yes, those upgrades will keep you from having to do repairs on the trail. I had the same build plan when I upgraded my rig. I did/do not want to do any serious wrenching on the trail. Knock on wood, I've been wrench free on the trail for many years. Have only had to replace a fuse. :-)
Also running D44's with ARB's, 4.88's (love them), KM2's, and a lift. Good Luck!
The 1.5 ton flip kit was one of my favorite upgrades.
Made a world of difference in the steering
You’re videos are awesome! Keep up the good work.
so psyched for another one of these videos
I have the falcon stabilizer. I absolutely love it because of the adjustability of it. There are 3 modes to it soft medium and firm. I love the firm it takes all play out of the wheel and the way it mounts keeps it up and out of the way. Love the channel brad!
Great info 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 really liked the vid 👌🏻
Highly recommend the Teraflex Falcon adjustable front stabilizer. I run a 2013 Rubicon JKU as my daily driver, and have it set to 2. Great being able to quickly move to 1 for offroad tactical and bouldering, or to 3 for sand/desert speed runs. Install took all of 10 minutes to install and most of my crew, who run Teraflex Falcon 3.3's, are going to be following lead. Feel free to reach out with questions specific to the stabilizer and hit us up next time your headed to Moab!
Love all the information you’ve put n the comments here!
Brad I just went to 37 inch tires I regeared with 4.88 and it works perfect also did Fox steering stabilizer love it
For steering stabilizers i tried both dobinsons & tough dogg both r excellent!
Thanks Brad for the info
I went with a King steering stabilizer along with the Griffin attenuator on the Steer Smart drag link. My 19 JLUR on 37's rides like a dream.
Very informative video. Congrats mate.
Just upgraded to 37's myself. I am running 5:13's I sleeved gusted and truss my front axle. And I upgraded to a ram assist. definitely way better than a steering stabilizer. The gears returns the jeep back to stock power.
I like my Falcon adjustable steering stabilizer!
More please! Great video, thanks.
I LOVE the falcon steering stabilizer. I don’t have the adjustable stabilizer but the non adjustable are great!!
Awesome info man!!
Hey just saw your video, I’m running the exact same tire and lift as you. Although I do have a prorock 44 in the front with RCVs and 35spline chromoly axles in the rear... I opted for the 4.88 and I think they are stellar, I too was trying to decide on either 4.88s or 5.13 but the shop I took it to recommended the 4.88. And it’s been really great so far.
First of all - Love your Channel - I Check in often for your new videos, I can throw in my suggestions as Ive recently overhauled my complete underbody on my 16JKUR. I did replace my axles with Dynatrac ProRock 60's , went with the Hardcore package, by far from cheap but was able to sell my stock Rubi axles for $4200 to offset the cost of the 60's ( just something to think about before putting in a bunch of money on OEM 44's - especially if your keeping the jeep for a while and love jeeping)
1) Had a Fox ATS before - now I run NO SS - Runs straight and perfect - don't feel the need for a SS at all - I think this has more to do with the increased caster of the Axles 6.5 degrees
2) Im running 4.88 gears with 37" Nitto Ridgegrapplers - don't feel the need for anything more - runs great --BUT -- now I'm wishing I had went for 5.13 ONLY because now after 3 months I probably will run 40's within the next year, so I could have avoided the future regear cost in the future.
3) Steer Smarts is great - had their flipped drag link before on 35's and my jeep drove great , still have the Steersmarts but now non flipped on the 60's. Great company.
Hope some of this helps - biggest thing is plan ahead instead of working backwards.
Again love your videos - I live on the east coast and envy you guys that are able to run those cool trails.
Great insight and very interesting to hear you are not running an SS, I hear this often form folks that are running 60s. Thanks for sharing!
As far as brakes and stopping power, I went with EBC yellow Brake pads, I feel like the stopping power is comparable to a big break kit. Driveshafts. I recommend Adams front and rear in 1350. Skip the exhaust spacers. Your in an automatic right? 4.88’s would be a good choice, you should get good torque on the pavement and in the dirt low 1 should crawl around 2 mph. Ten Factor chromolys is what I run, never had any problems. I’m also using the Rock krawler 3.5 lift with 3/4 “ spacers in the front. You won’t have to worry about back space with those wheels. 4” of bumpstop in the rear will keep the tire AND the 1350 drive shaft from contacting anything. Smittybilt’s HD tire carrier will handle a 37. It does mine. The only steering up grade I did besides Synergy everything, was adding a PSC power steering cooler kit. PSC has them. Hope some of this helps.
I run a 5.38 gear. I did this because I carry a lot of gear on my trips and I'm already under powered with my 3.8L. I found it raised my rpm on the highway in overdrive about 450 rpm. I am trusses and sleeved and gusseted up from and trusses rear. RCV axles upfront. Saving up for chrome Molly in the rear. Still running stock drive shafts. Oh and BDS steering stabilizer up from has been yood
Not sure on 37s but I went with a billstein steering dampener.. love it!!!15 jku, 2.5 lift, 35 ko2, Dana spicer drive shaft
I have a 2012 JK manual shift with 37’s and I love 5.13’s it’s fun to drive and great off-road, I too have the Dynatrac ball joints, I also have the Dynatrac brake upgrade kit and the big thing I went over the top and replaced the entire axle housing, I didn’t start with a Rubicon, just a sport
I'm running 37's with 5.13 gears on my 2010 JK. It made a world of difference. Before I upgraded it was rough on my transmission and I even had to replace my transmission. Once I made the gears upgrade my fuel economy and power were restored. My friend is running 37's with 4.88 gears and he has mentioned to me several times he wished he had went with 5.13's. If I were hauling all the overland equipment you are I would definitely consider the 5.13's. Good luck my friend!
I hear more folks that have 4.88's wish they got 5.13's vs. 5.13 guys saying they wish they had 4.88's. Thank you!
I love how your channel grew! I remember when u had like 400 subs
Never would have imagined! Thanks for sticking around for so long!!
Glad to see your back to making videos lol as always great content and useful info
Ya, real life work was getting in the way last month! Thank you !
Love my Fox ATS stabilizer :)
I have been running 35s for 8 years with a 3” Icon lift and have done really crazy stuff in Moab, NorCal, and Colorado and have only used my winch twice to get myself out. I have thought very hard about 37s but don’t really know that I need them. I’m blessed and can afford the upgrades, but until I see the real need I’m going to be a good steward and save the coin. The best upgrades for me were, rock sliders, gears and locker.
Hello, great info videos you do!
I think the re-gear and break are the first to do, in my view
I bought a 2018 jk rubicon right off the showroom floor. The day I picked it up I ordered a Jeep 4” lift and a week later installed interco 37” iron tires. After a week I had installed 4:88 gears. It is pretty snappy and I have to be careful to over rev the motor. Next up is a stubby bumper with a winch and narrow fenders.
Brad, you are on the right track there.
Gearing: I run 4.56 with 37" and personally wouldn't go higher because the RPM get's so high on the freeway (5-Auto). Acceleration is great.
Also my 37" rubs on an AEV rear bumper with a RK X-Factor kit (4.5') , because that kit sets your rear axle an inch back. Do not like that at all.
Last: I am running a Sahara with stock axles and no reinforcements at all. According to my shop, as long as you are easy on the gas such as Dan Micks is, go ahead with it. Oh, forgot: Fox is what I have for the steering damper and it works just fine.
What would I do different in my future JL? Stay as light as possible and make a plan upfront with a kit rather than a Frankenlift. I hear ya with bump steer issues and am following a different path to solve it with a dropped pitman arm on my Synergy stuff. More power to you Brad!
Great video I'm running 35s on my 17 Rubicon Recon with no issues. Stock recon wheels with a 1.5 spacer. I know I'm going to end up on 37s. I want to do it right.
Thanks for the info....... I on 33’s now and was thinking if going to a 37”. But after this I’ll be going to 35”. It’s my daily driver and I’m on a tight budget. Maybe some day but not to soon in my future. Lol.Thank you for the great info. 😎👍🏼
Hey man, just wanted to see what you've done and any advice you could give. Im also on a 33" but im in a 2007 JK X with D30 front and D35 rear and wanted to leap to 37" but not waste money for a 35" thanks.
Hi,
I run an OME lift kit jk4”
and been hearing some GOOD stuff about the Falcons
Steering stabilizer/shocks
No pull to the right anymore I heard,I’m going to try them soon,get your steer-smarts on made a day and night difference on mine...
And regarding gearing I just might go with 4.88/5.13 🍻
37 tires on a heavy duty pickup matches the axles/gear strength. Unless you utterly rebuild a jeep on giant pickup axles/gears/steering its only a matter of time before pop pop fizz fizz...oh what a relief that diff and cv joint is!
Well done… running 35” tires on a 3.5”-4.0” lift as you are/were.
Need everything you need and adjustable arms to get pinion angle and alignment issue set. Also thinking hydronic assist for steering. Planned Centerforce Duel Friction clutch to my list, did not hear you mention if you did a clutch, may have also missed that on a previous vid.
Great to see this vid, thanks for the work you do.
Looks so cool.
I know im watching this way later but im running 37s and i use 5.13 theyre great!
My JK I went from 35 to 37 it needed a ton of upgrades to make it work you wouldn't think just 2" make that much different but wow it did. Fenders had to go new lift, wheel spacers, 20k miles down the road ball joints took a hammering done replaced with stock ones lasted 10k. Now I'm looking at aftermarket high dollar ones. I'm done building JK's like these too much money rapped into it where I can find an old rock crawling buggy for 10k has V8 really big axles everything strong. I can just get liability insurance and if it gets rolled just push it over and keep going.
I have the SuperLift Dual Steering Stabilizer kit, great production.
4.88s I have upgraded everything even more than you have mentioned by I’m primarily a crawler. If you run at highway speed with 5.13s you are going to get vibration in the driveline because that driveshaft is going hyper sonic at that point. Lots of gear heat etc. 4.88s and a couple of bolt on performance mods for the motor and you will be happier
I have a 2016 Rubicon 2dr and I went with superlifts high clearance dual hydraulic steering stabilizer and it is amazing , I am running 34/12.50 and have no bump steer through the steering wheel , I will say do not go with a gas charged steering stabilizer because it will make the steering pull one way or the other due to gas pressure always on one side on the piston , I had a 2015 ram 2500 Deisel with Bilstein dual steering stabilizers and always thought the alignment was off well after two alignments done I digged deeper research wise and found that info out so stick with hydraulic stabilizers at minimum !!!!! But I recommend superlifts high clearance dual !
Perfect video on why I will not be going to 37" tires. There is such a huge upgrade to so many components that should be done to reduce unnecessary breakdowns it's not funny. Then again if this is your thing then go for it. I'll just stick to 35's as my max cause I still want to keep my DD without doing to much damage if at all possible. Great video tho Brad thanks for doing it.
My buddy ran 37 on his jk and had no problems. He did go to 513 but now he has 40s on one tons. Fun off roading.
Jk gear and gadgets ? 😂😂
SO before you spend $2500 on 37's spend 8K on upgrading everything else!! I'm staying with 35's for the near future! Thanks Brad for a great vid, completely changed my mod list schedule.
Upgrading 37's is a bigger investment than most folks realize. I did the Rubicon trail on 35's.... that size tire while take you almost anywhere.
my D44 is sleeved and "C" gusseted and i'm running 5.38's with BFG 37's but i'm a 2011 JKUR sooo...As far as steering stabilizer goes i ran a FOX ATS for awhile until i went hydro assist which is a whole different world in driving offroad in the rocks.
1. The Teraflex steering stabilizer has worked fantastic for me. I tried a Fox and Bilstein but they both had a slight pull, but they worked for dampening. Since you’re upgrading your steering, maybe the pull won’t affect you.
2. Id go with the 4.88, because the KO2’s run pretty light and pretty small, so those would likely be all you’d need.
so far youre the only one to have mentioned accurate tire sizing. there are 35s that are the same size as a large 33. i run 33s and am always getting asked if theyre 35s. who knows, his 37s might actually just be large 35s? at 5:13 may be totally overkilling it.
Luv it man!
Have 15 JKUR and went 37’s and decided to go similar route. I did the gusset/truss and sleeve kit at the local 4wd hardware. They ended up bending the axle in what I guess is welding the sleeve without letting it cool. They made good and swapped in a new HD Tera44. 3 1/4 inch tube with .5 inch wall. Dynatrac balljoints. Rcv’s
Went with 4.88s. Great on the freeway and did flawless on the Rubicon last fall. I too am running stock stabilizer 🤪 so curious to see what you decide on.
I agree with phantumdrummer on the steering damper. Our local shop here "Dixie 4 Wheel drive" will not install them. I am running 37" Toyo rt's and with no stabilizer. I have 41k miles on the 4" rough country lift and 162k miles on the factory steering components I am using the metal cloak drag link and tie rod. As far as gears go ... (I have a 09 Rubi with the dreaded and anemic 3.8L) I have the 4 speed auto trans and opted for the 5:13's with 35" tires initially and I was running almost 2500 rpms on the highway at 70mph. That was my motivation to switch to the 37's. It is so much better. If you are running the 6 speed manual gear choices are different. Another thought to keep in mind. The Dana 44 on the front of your Jeep is a dana 35 housing, with 44 components. Introducing the need for sleeves gussets and trusses. My opinion is this. They have to take your ball joints out to weld the gussets in place other wise it will melt the teflon inserts. So save the labor on those when the welding is done. Also It will save a lot when the gears are being installed if you have the sleeves and gussets done at that time. Axles are out for gear change and ball joints are out for welding ... drill holes in axle tube insert sleeves and weld, done a bunch more money saved in labor. Hope this helps. I have a few vids on instagram from the maze trail @advrx3 if you want to check it out.
Than you for sharing all your experience and advice... thank you!
I've done sleeves. I think the truss was absolute overkill but I would do the sleeves again without hesitation. Especially the magnum sleeves.
You don’t really need a steering stabilizer after the yeti parts with their Griffin XD Attenuator. If you want one, Fox makes a nice adjustable stabilizer.
Congrats on the 37" KO2s! I run them as well and decided to go with 5.13. Haven't tried 4.88 but what tipped me to 5.13 is that they supposedly do behave more civilized on the highway and never hunts for gears, which the 4.88 sometimes does. So far a couple months in, I'm very happy with my decision! 🚀
For me, because my Jeep is my dd and I spend so much time on the freeway going from trail to trail, highway manners is very important to me. Thank you for sharing your experience with 5:13's, very helpful.
Agree! Mine is a dd as well! :)
That's an expensive inch! I will look forward to the upgrade vids!
I highly recommend getting the synergy steering box/sector shaft brace. I'm running 35" boggers on 15s, and after putting that brace on I can hit 80mph and it's not even scary.
Thank you, I'll have to give that a closure look!
i love my Fox racing ATS steering stabilizer. way better then the stock one
Another great video!
By the way, I am running just above the green line (about 2800 rpm) on my 3.8 litre with 5.13s and 35s at 70 mph. Have good power and off the line it is wonderful (as jeeps go).
I was just rewatching this video along with others of yours. Have you seen The sleeve made by Nitro 4x4? It’s pounded in the sides of the axle with sledge hammers and axle bearing presses and doesn’t require welding or drilling. Cheap and easy install. Plus you could do a how to video!
Im running the evo c gusset and sleeve kit love it was a breeze to put in if you can weld, if you sleeve it no need for the truss, fox or falcon stabilizer cant go wrong and go with the 513 been running them for two years so far so good !!! love the channel
Great advice, thank you!
You have a good plan coming together for those 37s. People have no idea what it takes to properly set up a suspension, steering, driveline and axles for a 37" tire. Try to cut corners and your JK will end up nearly undrivable.. do it right and you're going to affect your retirement age... Haha..
If you're not ready to go hydraulic assist (I wasn't) take a look at the PSC XD steering box. Not cheap but I run 37s at 8-10 psi and am fully locked. I can maneuver around locked up pretty easy with the PSC box. I couldn't turn at all with the factory box.
Love the channel!
Great info on the PSC XD... I really think that's what I may be getting. Thank you!
Do the 5.13's! I did 4.88's and wish i did 5.13. you need to upgrade your axle side and frame side track bar brackets.... you will thank me and avoid death wobble!
Well, I watched this video and I went with 37 BFG KM3 tires, 4" shortarm teraflex lift, stock rubicon gears :)
How's that been working or for you?
GREAT VIDEO..
You need a aftermarket front axle housing. I have a Teraflex housing now after bending the the stock housing twice, which is sleeved, running 33" tyres, and I'm not hardcore at all, my JK is used for overlanding.
Gear calc says a certain number for a given RPM but no one seems to factor in the raised height and rolling mass that causes more strain aerodynamicly so a deeper gear (numerically higher) would probably be the better choice.
I bought a used JK with some 37’ tires on stock hight, I lifted 3.25” and am now re-gearing the differential with 4.11.
How's that been working out for you? Also, which size rims are you using? Stock 16" or 17" rims?
Thanks for this video, I've learn a lot now and realize I cannot afford these. However I still would love to get me a Jeep one day and just leave it at factory made. I can see upgrading it can cause major problems down the road or just simply costing me way too much money. Perhaps this is why the factory build them the way they are to last longer. For those who are on a low budget should leave it alone and not do any upgrades on your jeep unless you make plenty of money and don't mind spending money a lot. Anyway great video! Thanks for this video!
you dont have to spend alot of money ! you can buy things individually and install them on your own! Most aftermarket parts are more heavy duty and purpose oriented so it would be better than the factory, it would be an upgrade!
I’m running 5.22 on my yota. Mainly because I know I’m going to 40s eventually but for now I have 37s. However the gearing for jeeps is different than what it would be for a yota. In a jeep, a 4.88 gear is just right for 37s but in a yota you would run a 5.22 for a 37 or bigger.
Brad you don't need to truss and sleeve. I would truss it first, because if you are going to sleeve it, and do it right the shop will drill and weld the drilled out holes to keep the sleeve in place and actually give the axle shaft and rigidity. I was quoted at almost double the labor than what I paid for the truss and gussetts. Needless to say I went with a truss and gussetts, and the chromoly axle shafts are next on the to do list for me, and I'm just going to do both front and rear (I have a rubi, as well). The way I look at it is this, the amount of money I will spend on labor and parts (sleeve, truss and c's) is almost half the price of a currie rockjock 44 housing. I'd rather just upgrade the axle housing at that point instead of messing around with welds and possibilities of warping my axle.
All very good points, Brad. This is a must see video for any Jeeper wanting to put 37-inch wheels on their JK. Lots to consider and lots to purchase without a doubt.
You should definitely get the adjustable Falcons steering stabilizer has three modes soft medium and firm I keep mine on medium and when you hit bumps your steering wheel does not move anymore but still returns to Center when you turn best thing I did to my steering
fox ATS with teraflex 1 ton drag link and tie rod and I would add a sperchips trail dash tuner dose a huge difference when driving on the highway
I think you should go with PSC hydro assist for steering and for 37” go with 5.13 gears. If you have some extra cash I would do the dynatrac prorock 44.
You should look at just replacing your knuckles with a set of high steer knuckles. They are much stronger than stock and they reduce bump steer a lot.
Very nice.
Definitely do chromo shafts. After having new lockers and 5.13 gears put in my jk I broke 2 front U joints and one stub shaft in about a month all in deep snow with light throttle on 35s.
Great and Honest info...... Because on higher mileaged Jks you will run into steering component failure!
Axles and Drive shafts are your weakest point, even on 35's stock axles break!
Great info. I'm building a jk rubicon hp44 for my grand Cherokee wj. My recommendation is hydroassist steering. Eliminates death wobble and gives you better steering. 😉
Hydroassist is a great upgrade, but a significant investment for sure. Thanks!
TrailRecon sure. You don't have to buy a kit either to make it happen. You so need a drilled and tapped gear box and the appropriate cylinder based on total steering stroke. You can likely have a local shop make your hoses. I did one on my grand Cherokee for about $300.
I went this way also but very fast.
Willys model Dana 30/44
Yukon chromoly axles
USA chromoly ball joints
Nitro sleeve
Yeti tie rod
Yeti track bar
Synergy flip drag link
Bilstein stabilizer
Bilstein front/rear dual reservoir
4.88 gears
1310 Tom woods drive shaft
Rancho upper/lower adj control arms
Jks quick disconnects
Spartan locker
Truss and Guss next
The thing with steering stabilizers is all you need is a good basic shock. For that matter, if you’re set up right, you don’t truly *need* one at all. I run the Teraflex stabilizer (pre-Falcon), and it works just fine.
Unless your OEM is leaking, I’d leave it be, then replace it with a simple single shock. Should be a sub-$70 purchase. If anyone tries to talk you into dual stabilizers, run the other direction.
If your rig is a daily that sees a lot of street use, I’d err on the side of the 4.88s. I don’t claim expertise on gearing, but I’ve known a few who went with the crowd on deeper gears and regretted it because they lost any semblance of street power.
Good luck.
Thanks Smokey! I'm running a 2017 Rubicon JKU. I just bought 37's and am planning on re-gearing. I drive quite a bit on the highway, but I also want some acceleration. What do your guys with the 4.88s tell you about that? I've been leaning towards 4.88 simply because I don't want to eliminate any gas mileage I could have.
I’ve had both 5:13’s and 4:88’s with 37” tires. I’ll tell you right now, I personally hated the 5:13’s for actually driving, especially on the highway. I would be close to 3k rpms just going the speed limit. I always felt like it was putting a lot of extra wear and tear on the motor, and I hated that.
In my next jeep I got 4:88’s and I love them. It feels just like stick to me now. Great acceleration and great highway driving. I even get great gas mileage. Well... you know... for a jeep.
Great info! Looking forward on your review of the Steersmart high steer drag link. Curious on how they take care of the bump steer.
I'll be sure to share that install/review, thank you!
Check out PSC steering stabilizer. I’ll be going 37’s and Yeti high steer kit as well.