Save your Torch Down Flat Roof from leaking by doing this 1 thing
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- Опубліковано 22 січ 2022
- Almost all Torch Down Flat Roofs have this common problem. A roofer would use a torch to adhere the rubber membrane to the metal drip edge or flashing. The membrane, over time, will shrink, harden, and pop loose from the metal.
The solution is to pop the membrane loose and use Karnak 66 or Karnak 81 Trowel Grade adhesives to attach the membrane to the metal again.
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I thank G-D I found this and some of your other videos. I have 2 large flat residential roofs with metal flashing. I hope to be on one roof by this Tuesday and hope to find the problem.
Great video.... I asked about prospects on my torch down and you rightfully question why replace it. Well, it is old and leaks. And this video nails exactly why... the bonding between the roofing material and metal failed (or was never good to begin with!). Thanks again for the roofing wisdom!
Glad it helped
Thank you so much for sharing your information.
the problem there isnt that its torched too metal, that works perfectly fine if the metal is properly primed. the problem is there is no cap sheet its only base, the base has no UV protection thats why you can see all those micro cracks all over that roof. so its geting weathered and drying out and just pulling off
You can torch to metal as long as its primed properly. The adhesive you use won't stick to the copper nor will the felt if the copper isn't primed. when the adhesive drys out you'll be back to square one.
The adhesive acts as a primer. It the same stuff you spray out of a can. This is just thicker. Asphalt primer
Thank you for uploading another educational video.
It's my pleasure
Thanks for commenting, this helps the channel a lot
The adhesive can says "cold process" (which I thought meant that it doesn't need a torch for application). So you can always apply torch even when adhesive doesn't require it? And would you have been able to made that repair with just the adhesive--without torching? thanks.
Thanks
You mentioned that you would demonstrate "one of two ways" of fixing this problem. Inasmuch as I am currently encountering this same problem on my house, I'd be interested to know the other way if could describe it for me or refer me to a different video. The edge metal I'm working on transitions on the butt ends of the rolls, so there are many points of double thickness. Also, the end-rolls were cut too short, so even if I can effectively roll them back and apply the Karnac 81, I'm still going to have a substandard job.
you guys ever tried using a 4 inch drywall knife to put that adhesive down? seems alot easier than that trowel
In other videos you recommend Karnak 81 but in this video Karnak 66 is used. Which is better for repairing the edge of the roof at the metal flashing, and why?
Need the names of products you believe needed to go over tar and gravel roof with four valleys at 2.5 pitched roof. Please thanks
If it’s a small area where it came loose can a homeowner diy that in anyway? It’s leaking down I to my soffit from one area that is no longer attatched.
In a year or two when the Karnak cures i can tap that edge with a hammer and not hard and it will separate the metal needs and must be primed even for your miracle karmak
I just read the selects on karnak and it said it is ment for repairs only and only good for five to seven years so how does it last 40 years in your hands do you also give your customers that 40 warranty that you keep on talking about
It lasts 40 years because he is the roof Dr.
Come on man the only good comments you get are from the regular homeowners all roofers don't fall for your bull proudly roofing since 82 and there is new things to learn from others
Spot on mate.
For one thay used gravel stop that trap's the water instead of letting it roll off it traps it
They never primed the metal, that’s why it didn’t stick, I’ve torched to copper many times
I tried calling this gentleman long distance from the Bahamas enquiring about the turbo poly seal. He was an absolute ass on the phone. So I just gave up on the guy. To bad he knows his stuff.
He is a absolute butcher
What a mess.
Copper and bitumen is not compatible in anyways, even if you use primer it will seperate from each other. Say what you want it will not convince me. Here Norway is not allowed to attach to copper, if you/we do, good luck with repare work for years. 👍
Why can’t I just prime it?
Prime what and then what?
After thinking what you said. Instead of smearing the Karnak, you want to prime it. Then heat up the membrane and stick it to the primed area. Sure, I have seen many do that, but it is not as good as the Karnak. The Karnak acts as a primer itself, then I am not heating the material as much as you would do to melt it. That way the material is not in an expanded state and also the metal is not deforming as when you heat the surface. I also get a better seal since I can press out and down unto the adhesive allowing to fill any void. Whereas your way if there is some imperfection, like a seam, the material might not adhere, or over a nail, it will leave voids that could cause problems.
I don't know if I made any sense?
Take Care
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This problem has nothing to do with torching it's got to do with who installed it if it was primed you and your whole town wouldn't pull it off stop blaming the materials and the system blame the workmanship