Hello, I really enjoy watching you craft the belts, holster, etc. you are a true artisan and craftsman. It looks to me that you are very old school and I have a few questions. 1.- how come you do not use any leather sewing machines on holsters ? 2.- how come after you burnish the edges you do not use any edge coat just additional stain ? 3.- Do you think wood is superior to antler to burnish leather ? 4.- my final question, how come on holster you do not have the shiny part of the leather both on the outside and inside like you do on cartridge belts you craft ? Thank you in advance for answering my questions. When it comes to leather for pistol belts, holsters, etc for my guns I am very very picky that’s why I asked these question, to learn. Your work is exquisite !!!!!! Ricky from IBM, Ret.
The things I might show in the videos are not necessarily the only ways I do things. I’ll make a lined holster if someone wants one and I’ll make an unlined cartridge belt if someone wants one. I sometimes use an edge coat and sometimes not, depends on the look I’m going for or any one of a number of other reasons. Sometimes I use a sewing machine on holsters and sometimes I sew cartridge belts by hand. My thinking on linings for holsters is that if a person is worried about wear on the finish of their gun it’s perhaps best to leave it at home in the box. Other than that it’s only a personal choice…. I’ve found that any smooth material whether it’s wood or bone or antler or plastic or metal all work the same for burnishing leather, more important is the shape of the burnisher for different applications….
@@agarfrance9272 OK, thank you. I understand. With regards to lined smooth holsters, during the presentation of the weapon a smooth interior of the holster allows for the presentation of the weapon where there is no dragging or snagging. A rough interior of the holster causes friction and a slower presentation. Ricky from IBM, Ret
I’ve made three gun belts and I make the loops the same way. I’ve seen them stitched on but weaving the leather strap through the belt seems much stronger and more durable.
Oh, it is! I think it looks so much nicer, too! One thing I've found, though, is sometimes straight-walled cartridges can sometimes slide straight through after the loops get stretched by rough handling, so I prefer to make the loops for cartridges that have a rim larger than the case, and only use the highest quality of leather I can find for the loop belt, to reduce the chance of stretch.
No, they will break over time. Had 2 that broke with less then a couple of hundred hours of use. Have 3 belts with sewn on loops, 1 over 30yrs old. Wore them for 25yrs of Cowboy Shooting. Haven't broke a loop yet.
On the bullet loops, how do you determine the spacing between the oblong slots? I don't want to guess and end up wasting time and good leather. Thank you for all your videos on leather work.
Very simple calculation. It’s the diameter of the cartridge plus the thickness of the loop leather strap multiplied by 2. So the spacing for a .45 caliber (.45 cal is 29/64 of an inch.) the leather cartridge loop strap is 5ounce leather which is 5/64 of an inch. Multiply that by 2 is equal to 10/64 of an inch. 10/64 plus 29/64 is 39/64 which is just slightly less than 5/8 of an inch so the standard spacing for .45 caliber shells is 5/8 inches. Remember that’s not the distance between the oblong punches, it’s the distance center to center. Or left side to left side.
I watch your videos on my shop television, always nice to watch a master craftsman at work. I was wondering what you might use the keep the brass cartridges from turning green in the belt, I've done similar work, and can't seem to stop that from happening, unless you cycle the rounds through a little more often than I do! Do you seal the loops, or use anything I might have missed?
Not much you can do, as one other person said, the loops are not for storage. Many people carry dummy rounds of stainless steel in the loops just for show.
How can you not appreciate such fine craftsmanship? SUPERB! And yet, 14 Thumbs Down?! What a pitiful and sad remark…
Beautiful work, love to watch you create, you are a craftsman, also glad you are back making videos
You are a craftsman of the highest quality. Every time I watch one of your videos, i’m just blown away.
Great work! My damn fingers are beat up from sewing a cartridge/money belt this week. That machine is tempting
Most excellent workmanship!! Just wish you guys would TALK through your vid's!
This the real leather work I love to watch .Thank You.
Awesome gun belt. Beautiful craftsmanship
Beautiful work. Hope to be on that level some day with my leather work.
That’s a piece of art! Good job.
Hello, I really enjoy watching you craft the belts, holster, etc. you are a true artisan and craftsman.
It looks to me that you are very old school and I have a few questions.
1.- how come you do not use any leather sewing machines on holsters ?
2.- how come after you burnish the edges you do not use any edge coat just additional stain ?
3.- Do you think wood is superior to antler to burnish leather ?
4.- my final question, how come on holster you do not have the shiny part of the leather both on the outside and inside like you do on cartridge belts you craft ?
Thank you in advance for answering my questions.
When it comes to leather for pistol belts, holsters, etc for my guns I am very very picky that’s why I asked these question, to learn.
Your work is exquisite !!!!!!
Ricky from IBM, Ret.
The things I might show in the videos are not necessarily the only ways I do things. I’ll make a lined holster if someone wants one and I’ll make an unlined cartridge belt if someone wants one. I sometimes use an edge coat and sometimes not, depends on the look I’m going for or any one of a number of other reasons. Sometimes I use a sewing machine on holsters and sometimes I sew cartridge belts by hand. My thinking on linings for holsters is that if a person is worried about wear on the finish of their gun it’s perhaps best to leave it at home in the box. Other than that it’s only a personal choice….
I’ve found that any smooth material whether it’s wood or bone or antler or plastic or metal all work the same for burnishing leather, more important is the shape of the burnisher for different applications….
@@agarfrance9272 OK, thank you. I understand. With regards to lined smooth holsters, during the presentation of the weapon a smooth interior of the holster allows for the presentation of the weapon where there is no dragging or snagging. A rough interior of the holster causes friction and a slower presentation.
Ricky from IBM, Ret
A fine piece of art! How long does this kind of precision take to complete (roughly)?
Excellent as always!
A true craftsman at work.
I’ve made three gun belts and I make the loops the same way. I’ve seen them stitched on but weaving the leather strap through the belt seems much stronger and more durable.
Oh, it is! I think it looks so much nicer, too! One thing I've found, though, is sometimes straight-walled cartridges can sometimes slide straight through after the loops get stretched by rough handling, so I prefer to make the loops for cartridges that have a rim larger than the case, and only use the highest quality of leather I can find for the loop belt, to reduce the chance of stretch.
No, they will break over time. Had 2 that broke with less then a couple of hundred hours of use. Have 3 belts with sewn on loops, 1 over 30yrs old. Wore them for 25yrs of Cowboy Shooting. Haven't broke a loop yet.
@@RavensHammer00 Wet and stretch the straps first, then sew on when dried.
Fantastic, as always.
On the bullet loops, how do you determine the spacing between the oblong slots? I don't want to guess and end up wasting time and good leather.
Thank you for all your videos on leather work.
Very simple calculation. It’s the diameter of the cartridge plus the thickness of the loop leather strap multiplied by 2.
So the spacing for a .45 caliber (.45 cal is 29/64 of an inch.) the leather cartridge loop strap is 5ounce leather which is 5/64 of an inch. Multiply that by 2 is equal to 10/64 of an inch. 10/64 plus 29/64 is 39/64 which is just slightly less than 5/8 of an inch so the standard spacing for .45 caliber shells is 5/8 inches. Remember that’s not the distance between the oblong punches, it’s the distance center to center. Or left side to left side.
@@agarfrance9272 thank you very much. I greatly appreciate your reply. Very clear and concise.
Love this!
Great work. Where did you get maker mark stamp?
What a great job. You are an artist! What kind of oil did you use?
Pure neatsfoot oil
Beautiful work
Beautiful!
Absolutely beautiful.
Very nice!
Beautiful
I like it !
Wow! Just, wow.
I see you got a class 4. Nice!
WOW a beautiful thing!
O caboclo é muito bom mesmo 👏👏👏
What was the purpose of the packaging tape?
Great video thanks
magnifique, bravo. Magnifique métier.
You have a hell of a lot of cars going by where are you located on route 66?
What is the tape for?
Fine work, but if you Really use a Cartridge belt. Sooner rather then later, one of those thin loops will break and every Cartridge falls out.
Im not even a slinger and i would like one in .45-110 please! "’Bout there’ll do!"
Excelente
I watch your videos on my shop television, always nice to watch a master craftsman at work. I was wondering what you might use the keep the brass cartridges from turning green in the belt, I've done similar work, and can't seem to stop that from happening, unless you cycle the rounds through a little more often than I do! Do you seal the loops, or use anything I might have missed?
A thing to keep in mind is leather is for carrying not for storage. I don't even leave my knives in the sheaths when I can help it.
Not much you can do, as one other person said, the loops are not for storage. Many people carry dummy rounds of stainless steel in the loops just for show.
Do you still paint?
I do still paint, painting is my life
👏👏👏👍👍👍👍👍
oo nice el chapo..:)))
Beautiful!!
What was the tape for?
It keeps the leather from stretching out of shape from the stamping
@@agarfrance9272 thanks!