IF YOU ONLY NEED TO REPLACE THE INVERTER BOARD DON’T DO ANY OF THIS!! All that’s needed is to lean your machine back against a wall and you can easily gain access from the large opening in the bottom panel. The inverter board box is easily accessible in the front left corner. A single screw on the plastic housing enables you to slide the box out. You will need to clip the small zip ties from the cables/wires on either side and open up the housing. At this point you’re 4 small screws away from fixing your issue. Soooo much easier than messing with the front panel and door assembly!!!
Thanks for the awesome video! Fixed my machine by replacing the inverter board about a month ago. Going strong since! Your video was helpful in disassembly to get to the inverter board which is on the bottom of the unit, on left side (from facing the front), behind front panel, inside plastic casing with a heat sink. Thanks again!
Thank you so much for putting this up on UA-cam. Could not have done it without this video. I wish I had kept better track of which screws went with which pieces though, oh well, seems to be working without leaking.
Glad it helped! I knew that no one really had a tear-down on these and they come apart different than any other GE or most other frontloads because of the lack of screws at rear, so I wanted to make sure to document a few fixes and disassembly before it left my store.
All I had to do was replace the valve in the back. I could not have done this as quickly as I did with out your help. Can you make another video about the importance of keeping the water lines in order.😊 thank goodness I took a picture. Also the guide to disassemble the washer is inside the washer under the hood. But it was way easier to just watch the video. Thank you again!
Hello. I appreciate this video. Is it possible to take the side panels off so that I can fit it n a fifth wheel front door. The wars is the perfect size for this but apparently front door isn’t. 🤦🏼♀️
Can you take apart the bulk detergent despenser drawer/tray without breaking it for cleaning? If so can you do a video on the process. Please and thanks.
Great stuff, Ben! I just did the "coin-filter" on my Electrolux... Shouda watched more videos b4... there were a few things I missed which would have made it easier. Thanks again!
Great video. I have this same machine and the softener isn't getting siphoned out because it doesn't flood enough from the top. When it calls for water to go into the softener slot, there is good flow for 1 second until it begins to flood the front detergent dual slot, and then the pressure drops to almost nothing going to the softener slot. Can't find any info on this.
Helpful video! I needed to know how to take apart just the front/top area as I think the repairman that I called for my GE washer put it on too tight, making it quite hard to pull/push the soap tray. In case you're wondering what the fix was about, there was water dripping from the back of the soap tray compartment even when the washer was off, so much so it caused some mold in the rubber ring from the water dripping down all that way. Got the repairman to put a new hot water valve (I think that's the name of the part lol) in and it seems to have solved the issue. Anyway, will try to update when the issue is resolved! (Hopefully an easy fix to not warrant another visit, lmao!)
When I turn the drum manually, there is a slight grinding noise. An empty spin cycle exacerbates this noise and it sounds like a jet taking off. What can I look for when assessing the cause? Your videos are so helpful. Thank you!
Do you remember if that left side harness on the bulkhead is loose when you plug it in? I feel like I need to jam it in more but it just won't go in more and it is the correct way i am pushing it in.
any videos involving the mechanism for pushing water through different chambers in the tray. Mine is dispensing the softener just after the beginning of the wash cycle. I cannot have this and do not trust techs. I would like to know more before they come. Also,, sometimes the bleach cup in the tray is full of water at the end of the cycle??? My model is a little different, I did not want the bulk dispenser as I monitory how much detergent we use and we use much less than recommended. Model GFW550N2WW. Terrific video, great details, explanation, and overall directions. Excellent!
Hey Ben thanks for the awesome tutorials. I especially loved the spring wrench trick. I have the common issue of spinning for 5 seconds and stopping. I’ve already replaced the accelerometer and the inverter board. Still getting error 3, what else would you suggest?
I have this very same washer. It is over one year old; thus, no warranty. The washer makes a squeaking noise while washing, more precisely, when changes direction (or at least it is what I think.) Any suggestions? I think the shocks may need grease.
Hello, thanks for the video. Will taking off the top panel of the washer expose the hoses on the back of the smartdispense drawer? Do you know if there is a pump that draws detergent from the drawer that might need to be replaced if the hoses appear clear?
Ben this is a great video for the washer but you need to make a video on the same exact model dryer I tried taking the dryer front panel off and I could not do it I found all the little secret screws was able to take off the control panel but after removing all the screws the front panel just would not come off please make a video to help thank you there are no UA-cam videos on this dryer model
I just picked one up recently that the person said wasn't working. Little did I realize how darn heavy these things really are. I want to say it's probably the worst one i've ever moved. She said had ad problems with the spin cycle here the drain hose was clogged with scum. Although that very interesting machine a lot of features.
This is a very good video! I'm feeling a little dumb that I can't determine how far to take disassembly for what sounds like a small metal object rattling around when I spin the drum. I suspect a small nail has fallen behind the drum. How to I get to that area? I didn't really see anything on this video to address that. Any answers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Hello! My GE washer keeps making a click sound coming from the rear and it turns of. It does not stay on for more than a few seconds, and it turns of with this click noise. The click noise continues as long as the washer is plugged in the wall! Any tips on how to solve it? It is a 2-year GE machine. Does the Life-warranty cover it? Thanks
Thank you for this video. I have a GE Profile GFW450PSK that is leaking internally and out the bottom. I can hear water spraying inside while the water supply is on and it stops when I turn the water supply off, so I'm guessing a hose clamp came loose or something. The washer is only ~4.5 years old. Have you ever come across this issue? Do you have an repair tips for it?
@@chiefearnest1450 I've got the original Duet set that Whirlpool sold that's probably going on about 16 years old and that one does it too, you think they could have figured it out by now. I think the one like I have does it because the "shocks" for the tub wear out and also if is a heavy load the washer doesn't seem to be able to balance it out very quickly.
@@rusttrail3 I replaced a Samsung unit because it developed mold from previous condo tenants so I got the GE set as an ‘upgrade’. I’ve had the washer for about 2 months now and the inner drum bangs around at low speeds on the spin cycle no matter what (medium, small, large load). I spent $2K thinking I wouldn’t have to worry for the next several years, now I’m not sure this will last past the 1 year full service warranty
I have the same washer and I’ve noticed a high pitch squeal as it fills with water. I cleaned the inlet valves on the back of the unit, but I’m wondering if there is some kind of internal valve under the top panel that needs to be serviced or cleaned. Outside of the noise the washer still performs very well.
My washer got wet in a flood. Now when I plug it in the top of the washer in the back right corner I hear what sounds like a relay every 10 to 20 seconds or so. If I turn the washer on, it turns off when I hear that clicking sound. Any ideas on how to fix it or what the part might be?
do you have anything on this washer for the water level sensor? getting an error code for the level sensor, but cant find any information on how to get to it or even a proper part number to replace it.
I have a GE Ultrafresh Vent System Front Loader Washer Model# GFW550SSN0WW (purchased in Summer of 2020 from Lowes). Due to shortage of manpower GE and Sears are backlogged almost 2-4 weeks out on setting service appointments. I suspect the Inverter Board on my washer is bad (Error Codes: 3, 8, 19, 23, 27, and 65(?)) I do not own a Service Manual for this model and UA-cam is scarce on videos showing the location and access method for the inverter board. Can you tell me where is the inverter board on this washer and how to best access it. I pull the back cover off the washer and I can see an inaccessibility white computer board setup at about the 3:00 position underneath the outer drum. If the Inverter board is connected to that white computer board box then I'd have to turn this machine upside down to access it which is nearly impossible given the fact the washer weights in access of 200+ lbs and I have a bad knee, leg and foot. Where is the Inverter board on this unit I have?
@@bensappliancesandjunk So then are you suggesting that to access the inverter board I will need to flip this 200-300 lb piece over on its top side? Is the the bottom hole access truly the best and most efficient path to access the Inverter board? Can you find easy access to the Inverter by removing the front facing panel as illustrated in your video or is the bottom access the best access point?
@@carmelom269 For you, removing the front panel should be the easiest. You should be able to access it once you disassemble the front as shown in the video.
@@bensappliancesandjunk Sorry, I doubted you but you were right. Compared to the ass backward vague directions in the Service Manual you tip that access was easier from the Front (After removing Bulk Face) was correct. However, I must say getting access and removing the Inverter was still a challenge. The Service Manual makes zero reference to the single Philips head screw on the lower center front of the Inverter which has to be turned counter clockwise to be removed. Once the Phillps head screw is removed then one must grab the inverter and jiggle it forward to cause the two white plastic male prongs to release from the metal floor plate. If this is the first time Inverter is being remove as was mine, then the real challenge begins here. There are two white OEM zip ties securing the wiring harness to the front and rear of the inverter board. One must carefully cut the zip ties otherwise one will not be able to release the Inverter Board from the Inverter Board Cover. Again be very careful cutting the Zip ties because if you encroach and cut the wiring harness then your screwed. After I was able to safely cut and remove the two white OEM zip ties, I then had to wiggle the cover off of the Inverter board base. From there the final challenge was removing the four (4) wires . There are two small white colored wires in the top left hand corner (J502 and J301) One must grab and squeeze the plastic release tab to release the wires. Then the larger remaining two wires (red = J101 and White = J401) have to be removed with either a pair of needle nose pliers or a small pair of Gardner Bender GRX-1142 Romex Cable Stripper. Insert the plier teeth in the middle of the red or white wire and squeeze while gently pulling back to get the wire clamps to release. One all four wire harness clips have been removed then the old defective Inverter has to be removed from its base. There are four small Phillips head screws securing the Inverter to the base. Remove the four screws and then the old Inverter can be removed and the new Inverter inserted (purchase mine New off E-bay with a Best Offer of $40 (Retails for about $150-$220 new from GE or Sears). Once you have inserted the new Inverter into its base, then you just have to rescuer the four wires then then the Inverter Cover and reverse the removal process to reinstall. Ran a Spin Test (#14) Drum Spinner up to max RPMS and system appears to be working again as good as almost new. Although your video was not about replacing an Inverter the core from Bulk Face and Lock removal portions were definitely helpful to my Inverter replacement project.
@@nyer070 I am planning on buying another one of these soon used or new just to film taking inverter board out. Ironically, I took one out of the GE Ultrafast combo already, just not this one and in the end that's what goes out all the time on these.
@@bensappliancesandjunk thank you for helping us with your amazing videos Ben. I can't wait to see your new video on the inverter board. Much appreciated
@@nyer070 all I can tell you from memory is its near the pump to the left. The board sucks, in that you have to remove all the wires, then pull PCB from a plastic housing. It wasn't great, but I was able to do it on-camera in about 5 minutes maybe.
No. That's going to be entirely electronic based on the system UI. Check my video out on error codes and such. I think I included the spec sheet that may have info on water level.
@@brigitas9176 Other than physically adding more water, the only way I've found to get more water into the machine is to run a rinse cycle before I run the wash cycle. After the rinse cycle the clothes are now wet(heavier), and the internal sensor will add more water than it normally would during the wash cycle. Note that I stop the washing machine immediately after the rinse cycle finishes and before the spin cycle begins to ensure the clothes remain soaking wet. This takes about 3 minutes total. This is inconvenient, but it's the only way I've found.
I've replaced the door lock and it still just clicks and flashes DOOR. I checked all screws of the door and the striker, I've restarted multiple times, let it sit powerless, checked the app and updated software twice. GE customer service is stumped. Any thoughts please?
Usually in these machines I notice that it is a real pain in the butt and a very involved process to get the bearings out you basically have to. Take the whole tub out and tear it apart. Put it on saw horses and pound the bearings out.
Removing the tub assembly from any front loader is a two-man job. Using our automobile engine hoist, my wife and I removed and installed the assembly with little grief.
Can someone tell me why my gfw450spm1dg sounds like an airplane during the spin cycle? If its a bearing replacement, would it show as an error code or is the sound the telling problem? How do I replace a bearing and about how long does it take to do so?
My washer just makes a clicking sound every ten seconds... as soon as I plug it in. If I press the power button after the clicking, the control panel works, showing no error codes. when it clicks after ten seconds, the power turns off. I cannot find any info on what the problem could be....
How do I get my door unlocked to even begin removing the panel!!! I mean sure I can get the top panel and top off put then there is the door challenge!!! Help?
Did you find out how to get to the hall sensor? My error code (3) is indicating that needs replaced. And I can't find it on the parts diagram anywhere. And did you get a replacement if you found it (and maybe have a part number of so?)? Thanks?
I thought my hall sensor was bad. However, when I tested it with a multi-meter, it was fine. The resistance was around 200 ohms. Instead, the problem was the inverter board. Not sure if this helps you.
@@thestageboss thanks for the reply! Mine is showing error code 3. Which when I do a spin test it says if hall sensor is bad it will rotate for a few seconds then stop. But I am also questioning the inverter board. But inverter is $140 and non-returnable at the local shop I found that could order one. I also can't locate the hall sensor and swear I read somewhere in my searching that it is built into the motor and can't be replaced. But I can't duplicate that search result to verify if I really saw that. Was yours showing any error codes (and which ones if so) and what was the machine doing that made you replace inverter to fix it? Mine starts a cycle, runs about 3 to 5 minutes then says end and stops. Like it finished but isn't even close. In troubleshooting mode, the only tests it seemingly fails to conduct are the spin test and accelerated spin test. Both tumble slowly for a few seconds, then stop spinning and accelerated tests never shows any RPMs on display. Thanks for the reply again and for any more insight you can give! Hesitant to purchase this inverter without knowing more especially since the inverter doesn't look physically fried or anything as well.
I also experienced a failed inverter. First tech replaced motherboard. That failed. Second tech read codes correctly. Ordered new motor but new and old motor ohmed out identical. Ordered new inverter and that finally fixed it. 3 month process.
Surprising appliance manufacturers are not using screws with weird heads that require special tools to remove like Apple and some other electronics manufacturers do.
Fortunately, other than maybe 1 or 2 instances, its always philips head, torx, or a hex nut. The only time there's specialty tools involved is when its something really difficult like, say, a spanner nut.
I did 4 videos in a row because I had one available... anymore if I have a good washer I'll just rip it apart to do a few videos on potential issues in a row, regardless if I think its gonna break or not
I ordered mine, 6 months later it arrived and didn’t work. 4 months later it finally worked. Home Depot wouldn’t work with me because “it’s GE’s problem now”. I’ll never buy another appliance from there again. My wife was barely pregnant and we lived in an apartment when I paid for it. We owned a house and my daughter was a month old when it finally worked. 😢
When I had been leaving the drawer open to let it air dry, the detergent reservoir outlet clogged with dried up detergent. So I switched to leaving it closed. Now it is entirely full of black mold, and I'm here at this video trying to figure out how to get access deep inside the blue slot to try to sterilize it.
@@bensappliancesandjunk haha it’s almost like they don’t want any one inside of them. In my head I was like “there’s only one freakin tool for this, and I left it in the van” a magnetic screw driver 😄
@ 0:43 ~ Screws to hold the front interface on each of these "need removed"... what? I have been over this with you... and it is one of the most confusing things for me to this day... It's like when people in the uk say that they need to go "to Hospital"... I need to go to (THE) Hospital!!! TO BE.... Screws need (TO BE) removed! ~ You make me feel like I am taking crazy pills ;) Also... You make Good Informative Videos, keep up the good work.
Respectfully, my intention is to make good videos to fix things, not videos that are grammatically perfect at this point. One day, maybe I can script the videos using grammatical tools to solve this, but until then, I make mistakes.
@@bensappliancesandjunk No, your cool... I just can't comprehend how when reading it back you wouldn't notice it? I want to believe it's a local dialect thing... Are you from a certain state or town where people just skip random words? 😂 Haha... I laughing with ya man.
@@oxygon2850 "No, you're cool." "I am laughing with you, man." You got "you're" wrong and you left out the "am" in the second sentence. If you are going to be a grammar Nazi then get it right yourself.
It's nice that they include the instructions on how to open the machine. To bad they are inside the machine.
big brain engineers, hunh?
Ben! Just replaced my inverter board based on your disassembly instructions and it's good as new! Another token of appreciation. Thank you so much!
IF YOU ONLY NEED TO REPLACE THE INVERTER BOARD DON’T DO ANY OF THIS!! All that’s needed is to lean your machine back against a wall and you can easily gain access from the large opening in the bottom panel. The inverter board box is easily accessible in the front left corner. A single screw on the plastic housing enables you to slide the box out. You will need to clip the small zip ties from the cables/wires on either side and open up the housing. At this point you’re 4 small screws away from fixing your issue. Soooo much easier than messing with the front panel and door assembly!!!
Thank you for making this video. You inspired me to just buy a new washing machine.
Thanks for the awesome video! Fixed my machine by replacing the inverter board about a month ago. Going strong since! Your video was helpful in disassembly to get to the inverter board which is on the bottom of the unit, on left side (from facing the front), behind front panel, inside plastic casing with a heat sink.
Thanks again!
Hello,
What was wrong with your machine ?
I am currently facing a problem with mine. The switch control light is blinking won’t turn on at all.
I want to ask the same question as the person before. My machine keeps making a clicking noise and turns off every few seconds
Thank you so much for putting this up on UA-cam. Could not have done it without this video. I wish I had kept better track of which screws went with which pieces though, oh well, seems to be working without leaking.
Glad it helped! I knew that no one really had a tear-down on these and they come apart different than any other GE or most other frontloads because of the lack of screws at rear, so I wanted to make sure to document a few fixes and disassembly before it left my store.
All I had to do was replace the valve in the back. I could not have done this as quickly as I did with out your help. Can you make another video about the importance of keeping the water lines in order.😊 thank goodness I took a picture. Also the guide to disassemble the washer is inside the washer under the hood. But it was way easier to just watch the video. Thank you again!
Great video! Got a leaking door boot to replace tomorrow. Forgot how to get into this one so this was a great refresher!
Thanks dude,
-Marcus Boyd
Hello. I appreciate this video. Is it possible to take the side panels off so that I can fit it n a fifth wheel front door. The wars is the perfect size for this but apparently front door isn’t. 🤦🏼♀️
Can you take apart the bulk detergent despenser drawer/tray without breaking it for cleaning? If so can you do a video on the process. Please and thanks.
Just changed out inlet water valve and this video was very helpful, and yes those two middle screws were a pain to get out!
Great stuff, Ben! I just did the "coin-filter" on my Electrolux... Shouda watched more videos b4... there were a few things I missed which would have made it easier. Thanks again!
Thanks for making this video! I just used it to replace my inverter & saved myself about $800!
Nice. I do keep seeing people replacing inverters on this, so I am going to make a video soon I hope.
@@bensappliancesandjunk , would love that because I'm facing the same issue currently.
I must have an inverter issue. My washer keeps saying "Door" and won't work. It also says code 34 which is the inverter. Did yours say, 'door," too?
Need to get the lock replaced. Your video is a great help. I have the white washer.
Thanks for taking time I am new to appliance just started for a company need more training
Best of luck!
Great Video Ben. Thanks for this tutorial. Your videos are priceless sir. Thanks again 🙏🏼
Thanks for sharing. Mine already started leaking, its only been 18months. Need to open it open and check where its leaking from
Great video. I have this same machine and the softener isn't getting siphoned out because it doesn't flood enough from the top. When it calls for water to go into the softener slot, there is good flow for 1 second until it begins to flood the front detergent dual slot, and then the pressure drops to almost nothing going to the softener slot. Can't find any info on this.
Helpful video! I needed to know how to take apart just the front/top area as I think the repairman that I called for my GE washer put it on too tight, making it quite hard to pull/push the soap tray.
In case you're wondering what the fix was about, there was water dripping from the back of the soap tray compartment even when the washer was off, so much so it caused some mold in the rubber ring from the water dripping down all that way. Got the repairman to put a new hot water valve (I think that's the name of the part lol) in and it seems to have solved the issue.
Anyway, will try to update when the issue is resolved! (Hopefully an easy fix to not warrant another visit, lmao!)
When I turn the drum manually, there is a slight grinding noise. An empty spin cycle exacerbates this noise and it sounds like a jet taking off. What can I look for when assessing the cause? Your videos are so helpful. Thank you!
I need to replace the inverter board. Can you show a video on how to do that?
If I had one in my store, yes. But this was the last one I've got since the video.
Thank you for making this. I was struggling to get the top off to fix a bad electrical cord on a used machine!
Do you remember if that left side harness on the bulkhead is loose when you plug it in? I feel like I need to jam it in more but it just won't go in more and it is the correct way i am pushing it in.
Thanks! A little token of appreciation for your help.
Glad it helped!
Great video. Is there a way to clean the pump without taking off the front?
any videos involving the mechanism for pushing water through different chambers in the tray. Mine is dispensing the softener just after the beginning of the wash cycle. I cannot have this and do not trust techs. I would like to know more before they come. Also,, sometimes the bleach cup in the tray is full of water at the end of the cycle??? My model is a little different, I did not want the bulk dispenser as I monitory how much detergent we use and we use much less than recommended. Model GFW550N2WW. Terrific video, great details, explanation, and overall directions. Excellent!
Hey Ben thanks for the awesome tutorials. I especially loved the spring wrench trick. I have the common issue of spinning for 5 seconds and stopping. I’ve already replaced the accelerometer and the inverter board. Still getting error 3, what else would you suggest?
The blue door boot's color is beautiful!!! I'm in love 🤩 😂.
Did GE copy LG, or this is their original design?
Ge and LG take pages out of each others books all the time. In some models there is a universal pump that will fit into both front loaders.
Ge appliances are made by haier. They both are garbage
I have this very same washer. It is over one year old; thus, no warranty. The washer makes a squeaking noise while washing, more precisely, when changes direction (or at least it is what I think.) Any suggestions? I think the shocks may need grease.
I'm like number 1000!!!🎉🎉🎉🎉 this vid is old but hey
Hello, thanks for the video. Will taking off the top panel of the washer expose the hoses on the back of the smartdispense drawer? Do you know if there is a pump that draws detergent from the drawer that might need to be replaced if the hoses appear clear?
Did you get a reply?
@@enonhopkins1306 nope. I just deal with adding detergent each wash.
Thanks Ben! You are a life saver!
Did you do the video for the drain pump removal? I cant find it in your video list. My moms washer like this one is leaking right in that area.
Ben this is a great video for the washer but you need to make a video on the same exact model dryer I tried taking the dryer front panel off and I could not do it I found all the little secret screws was able to take off the control panel but after removing all the screws the front panel just would not come off please make a video to help thank you there are no UA-cam videos on this dryer model
glad they make it so easy for those of use who stack our washer/dryer -_-
I just picked one up recently that the person said wasn't working. Little did I realize how darn heavy these things really are. I want to say it's probably the worst one i've ever moved. She said had ad problems with the spin cycle here the drain hose was clogged with scum. Although that very interesting machine a lot of features.
Thank you so much for this video. Wonderful.
Thank you for this very useful information. Great video.
Thanks!
Where is the inverter at on this unit. I need to replace wh22x34657 inverter.
What if you can’t open the door because the locking mechanism is not working
Did you ever get yours fixed? We have same problem.
Could you make a video of the same unit but simply replacing the water inlet valve?
I have thr video almost done for the ultrafast 2 in 1. It's nearly identical and will be putting that out soon.
This is a very good video! I'm feeling a little dumb that I can't determine how far to take disassembly for what sounds like a small metal object rattling around when I spin the drum. I suspect a small nail has fallen behind the drum. How to I get to that area? I didn't really see anything on this video to address that.
Any answers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Take the gasket off entirely, should be able to help you access the drum
Will I need to still do this, if I just want to change the light bulb that comes on when you open the door?
Is this a good machine
Can front plastic glass panel be replaced? Mine got scratched. Don't want to replace the whole door assembly.
How do you replace the paddles for this exact modle?
good evening professor, a doubt that does not want to be silent, in a samsung french door what triggers the resistance of the ice maker
Hello!
My GE washer keeps making a click sound coming from the rear and it turns of. It does not stay on for more than a few seconds, and it turns of with this click noise. The click noise continues as long as the washer is plugged in the wall! Any tips on how to solve it? It is a 2-year GE machine. Does the Life-warranty cover it?
Thanks
Hi. I have multiple videos about the issue on my channel
Do you have one to show how to replace the drum bearings or spider bracket?
Did you ever find anything on this? My bearing just went out and I can't find much online about fixing it.
Thank you for this video. I have a GE Profile GFW450PSK that is leaking internally and out the bottom. I can hear water spraying inside while the water supply is on and it stops when I turn the water supply off, so I'm guessing a hose clamp came loose or something. The washer is only ~4.5 years old. Have you ever come across this issue? Do you have an repair tips for it?
Trash it and get a speed queen
Where is the pressure sensor on this model??? Its not listed on the diagram
so what is your opinion of this washer and dryer set ? the reviews ive seen have been pretty good
The washer’s inner tub seems defectives on these models, during the spin cycle, the inner tub will make a banging noise at low speeds
@@chiefearnest1450 I've got the original Duet set that Whirlpool sold that's probably going on about 16 years old and that one does it too, you think they could have figured it out by now. I think the one like I have does it because the "shocks" for the tub wear out and also if is a heavy load the washer doesn't seem to be able to balance it out very quickly.
@@rusttrail3 I replaced a Samsung unit because it developed mold from previous condo tenants so I got the GE set as an ‘upgrade’. I’ve had the washer for about 2 months now and the inner drum bangs around at low speeds on the spin cycle no matter what (medium, small, large load).
I spent $2K thinking I wouldn’t have to worry for the next several years, now I’m not sure this will last past the 1 year full service warranty
Thanks!
Thank you so much. Well explained. Assignment done. I got my washer back and working again.
Awww, I am so glad the video helped you! These machines are really odd to take apart the first time, but once you can see how to do it, its easy!
We dropped the machine forward and dented the front sheet metal part, we got it off, what do you suggest is the best way to hammer out the dents?
Car dent puller
Excellent video thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
I have the same washer and I’ve noticed a high pitch squeal as it fills with water. I cleaned the inlet valves on the back of the unit, but I’m wondering if there is some kind of internal valve under the top panel that needs to be serviced or cleaned. Outside of the noise the washer still performs very well.
Mine is doing the same thing did you ever find a solution? Is it still working fine?
We needed a more in depth disassembly for cleaning.
If I get another one I'll see what I can do
Best hack ever
My washer got wet in a flood. Now when I plug it in the top of the washer in the back right corner I hear what sounds like a relay every 10 to 20 seconds or so. If I turn the washer on, it turns off when I hear that clicking sound. Any ideas on how to fix it or what the part might be?
How do u take the top off the dryer .. same style as the 1 in the video.. there ‘s a coin stuck in 1 of the blades in the drum.. thanks
Can this process be done if the dryer is stacked on top?
Yes if the dryer is pushed rearward a little
do you have anything on this washer for the water level sensor? getting an error code for the level sensor, but cant find any information on how to get to it or even a proper part number to replace it.
Where is the main control board located?
Would it be easier just to lay the washer on its side? You wouldn’t have to remove all the panels.
Que número de parte sería el swhich de puerta o bloquea puerta en Guadalajara Jalisco México
Question, why my drawer is flood in the fabric softer area? How fix that?
I have a GE Ultrafresh Vent System Front Loader Washer Model# GFW550SSN0WW (purchased in Summer of 2020 from Lowes). Due to shortage of manpower GE and Sears are backlogged almost 2-4 weeks out on setting service appointments. I suspect the Inverter Board on my washer is bad (Error Codes: 3, 8, 19, 23, 27, and 65(?)) I do not own a Service Manual for this model and UA-cam is scarce on videos showing the location and access method for the inverter board. Can you tell me where is the inverter board on this washer and how to best access it. I pull the back cover off the washer and I can see an inaccessibility white computer board setup at about the 3:00 position underneath the outer drum. If the Inverter board is connected to that white computer board box then I'd have to turn this machine upside down to access it which is nearly impossible given the fact the washer weights in access of 200+ lbs and I have a bad knee, leg and foot. Where is the Inverter board on this unit I have?
Its the white box you're thinking it is. I believe there's a nice big access hole in the middle underneath.
@@bensappliancesandjunk So then are you suggesting that to access the inverter board I will need to flip this 200-300 lb piece over on its top side? Is the the bottom hole access truly the best and most efficient path to access the Inverter board? Can you find easy access to the Inverter by removing the front facing panel as illustrated in your video or is the bottom access the best access point?
@@carmelom269 For you, removing the front panel should be the easiest. You should be able to access it once you disassemble the front as shown in the video.
@@bensappliancesandjunk Sorry, I doubted you but you were right. Compared to the ass backward vague directions in the Service Manual you tip that access was easier from the Front (After removing Bulk Face) was correct. However, I must say getting access and removing the Inverter was still a challenge. The Service Manual makes zero reference to the single Philips head screw on the lower center front of the Inverter which has to be turned counter clockwise to be removed. Once the Phillps head screw is removed then one must grab the inverter and jiggle it forward to cause the two white plastic male prongs to release from the metal floor plate.
If this is the first time Inverter is being remove as was mine, then the real challenge begins here. There are two white OEM zip ties securing the wiring harness to the front and rear of the inverter board. One must carefully cut the zip ties otherwise one will not be able to release the Inverter Board from the Inverter Board Cover.
Again be very careful cutting the Zip ties because if you encroach and cut the wiring harness then your screwed.
After I was able to safely cut and remove the two white OEM zip ties, I then had to wiggle the cover off of the Inverter board base. From there the final challenge was removing the four (4) wires .
There are two small white colored wires in the top left hand corner (J502 and J301) One must grab and squeeze the plastic release tab to release the wires. Then the larger remaining two wires (red = J101 and White = J401) have to be removed with either a pair of needle nose pliers or a small pair of Gardner Bender GRX-1142 Romex Cable Stripper. Insert the plier teeth in the middle of the red or white wire and squeeze while gently pulling back to get the wire clamps to release. One all four wire harness clips have been removed then the old defective Inverter has to be removed from its base. There are four small Phillips head screws securing the Inverter to the base. Remove the four screws and then the old Inverter can be removed and the new Inverter inserted (purchase mine New off E-bay with a Best Offer of $40 (Retails for about $150-$220 new from GE or Sears). Once you have inserted the new Inverter into its base, then you just have to rescuer the four wires then then the Inverter Cover and reverse the removal process to reinstall.
Ran a Spin Test (#14) Drum Spinner up to max RPMS and system appears to be working again as good as almost new.
Although your video was not about replacing an Inverter the core from Bulk Face and Lock removal portions were definitely helpful to my Inverter replacement project.
Ben, could you please tell me where the inverter board is located?
At the very bottom, near drain pump
@@bensappliancesandjunk thanks. I was hoping it would be at the top. I'm screwed 😔
@@nyer070 I am planning on buying another one of these soon used or new just to film taking inverter board out. Ironically, I took one out of the GE Ultrafast combo already, just not this one and in the end that's what goes out all the time on these.
@@bensappliancesandjunk thank you for helping us with your amazing videos Ben. I can't wait to see your new video on the inverter board. Much appreciated
@@nyer070 all I can tell you from memory is its near the pump to the left. The board sucks, in that you have to remove all the wires, then pull PCB from a plastic housing. It wasn't great, but I was able to do it on-camera in about 5 minutes maybe.
Question: After taking the top lid off, is there an adjustment screw anywhere that will allow the water level to increase?
No. That's going to be entirely electronic based on the system UI. Check my video out on error codes and such. I think I included the spec sheet that may have info on water level.
@@bensappliancesandjunk I viewed your other video on error codes. Do you know of a way to increase the water level while washing?
@@dbelcher did you find the way to adjust the water ? I'm debating what to buy next, washer that I know how to tweak or this GE.
@@brigitas9176 Other than physically adding more water, the only way I've found to get more water into the machine is to run a rinse cycle before I run the wash cycle. After the rinse cycle the clothes are now wet(heavier), and the internal sensor will add more water than it normally would during the wash cycle. Note that I stop the washing machine immediately after the rinse cycle finishes and before the spin cycle begins to ensure the clothes remain soaking wet. This takes about 3 minutes total. This is inconvenient, but it's the only way I've found.
@@dbelcher wow, that's ridiculous, I have no time for this game. I'll get LG and tweak it just like my old pair.
I've replaced the door lock and it still just clicks and flashes DOOR. I checked all screws of the door and the striker, I've restarted multiple times, let it sit powerless, checked the app and updated software twice. GE customer service is stumped. Any thoughts please?
Did you ever get any resolution to this, I have the same issue
How hard is to replace the bearing?? Is it worth it
Usually in these machines I notice that it is a real pain in the butt and a very involved process to get the bearings out you basically have to. Take the whole tub out and tear it apart. Put it on saw horses and pound the bearings out.
Removing the tub assembly from any front loader is a two-man job. Using our automobile engine hoist, my wife and I removed and installed the assembly with little grief.
Can someone tell me why my gfw450spm1dg sounds like an airplane during the spin cycle? If its a bearing replacement, would it show as an error code or is the sound the telling problem? How do I replace a bearing and about how long does it take to do so?
My washer just makes a clicking sound every ten seconds... as soon as I plug it in. If I press the power button after the clicking, the control panel works, showing no error codes. when it clicks after ten seconds, the power turns off. I cannot find any info on what the problem could be....
How do I get my door unlocked to even begin removing the panel!!! I mean sure I can get the top panel and top off put then there is the door challenge!!! Help?
Very informative and interesting. Thank you
Is there a dryer video? I can't get it in my basement
Never had one til a few days ago
How do I manually unlock the door?
Any idea where I can get the main control board? Everywhere says it’s discontinued. I need part number WH22X34659. Thank you!
RFG28hmesl code 22E, fan ok, but not enough voltage, to energize the fan what can it be?
Board or corrosion on wire harness
@@bensappliancesandjunk plate already changed, thanks for your attention, I follow Brazil
My he washer has no lights but the pump continuously runs. 😢🤷🏾♂️
what's the model number on that washer?
It's at the start of video. I think it's a GFW850
How do I get to the hall sensor for replacement?
Did you find out how to get to the hall sensor? My error code (3) is indicating that needs replaced. And I can't find it on the parts diagram anywhere. And did you get a replacement if you found it (and maybe have a part number of so?)? Thanks?
I thought my hall sensor was bad. However, when I tested it with a multi-meter, it was fine. The resistance was around 200 ohms. Instead, the problem was the inverter board. Not sure if this helps you.
@@thestageboss thanks for the reply! Mine is showing error code 3. Which when I do a spin test it says if hall sensor is bad it will rotate for a few seconds then stop. But I am also questioning the inverter board. But inverter is $140 and non-returnable at the local shop I found that could order one. I also can't locate the hall sensor and swear I read somewhere in my searching that it is built into the motor and can't be replaced. But I can't duplicate that search result to verify if I really saw that.
Was yours showing any error codes (and which ones if so) and what was the machine doing that made you replace inverter to fix it?
Mine starts a cycle, runs about 3 to 5 minutes then says end and stops. Like it finished but isn't even close. In troubleshooting mode, the only tests it seemingly fails to conduct are the spin test and accelerated spin test. Both tumble slowly for a few seconds, then stop spinning and accelerated tests never shows any RPMs on display.
Thanks for the reply again and for any more insight you can give! Hesitant to purchase this inverter without knowing more especially since the inverter doesn't look physically fried or anything as well.
I also experienced a failed inverter. First tech replaced motherboard. That failed. Second tech read codes correctly. Ordered new motor but new and old motor ohmed out identical. Ordered new inverter and that finally fixed it. 3 month process.
@@thestagebosswhat made you think “Hall Sensor”?
Lol he’s not going to answer all your dumb questions about your broken wash machine 😂😂😂😂
I got 16,000 comments last year, I try to do what I can but its not easy
Surprising appliance manufacturers are not using screws with weird heads that require special tools to remove like Apple and some other electronics manufacturers do.
Fortunately, other than maybe 1 or 2 instances, its always philips head, torx, or a hex nut. The only time there's specialty tools involved is when its something really difficult like, say, a spanner nut.
That’s a big no for me I thought the Electrolux was bad
The only minute advantage I can see here is that if it was stacked, you could service it a little easier since its front-accessible.
OMG. I find it concerning to see all these "newer" GE front load washer repair videos. Looking to buy a new stackable set. Think I'll avoid GE. Yikes!
I did 4 videos in a row because I had one available... anymore if I have a good washer I'll just rip it apart to do a few videos on potential issues in a row, regardless if I think its gonna break or not
Already broke down in one year cannot find parts so they reimbursed me with the money to buy another washing machine. That is so sad.
I ordered mine, 6 months later it arrived and didn’t work. 4 months later it finally worked. Home Depot wouldn’t work with me because “it’s GE’s problem now”. I’ll never buy another appliance from there again. My wife was barely pregnant and we lived in an apartment when I paid for it. We owned a house and my daughter was a month old when it finally worked. 😢
When I had been leaving the drawer open to let it air dry, the detergent reservoir outlet clogged with dried up detergent. So I switched to leaving it closed. Now it is entirely full of black mold, and I'm here at this video trying to figure out how to get access deep inside the blue slot to try to sterilize it.
GE 🙄 the only brand that wants to do things differently
Some people like them being totally front accessible
I got my butt kicked with those dang screws. They’re awesome machines though
Me too. The first time I did one, the screws were super easy. But when I was on video, it was way worse.
@@bensappliancesandjunk haha it’s almost like they don’t want any one inside of them. In my head I was like “there’s only one freakin tool for this, and I left it in the van” a magnetic screw driver 😄
@ 0:43 ~ Screws to hold the front interface on each of these "need removed"... what? I have been over this with you... and it is one of the most confusing things for me to this day... It's like when people in the uk say that they need to go "to Hospital"... I need to go to (THE) Hospital!!! TO BE.... Screws need (TO BE) removed! ~ You make me feel like I am taking crazy pills ;) Also... You make Good Informative Videos, keep up the good work.
Respectfully, my intention is to make good videos to fix things, not videos that are grammatically perfect at this point. One day, maybe I can script the videos using grammatical tools to solve this, but until then, I make mistakes.
@@bensappliancesandjunk No, your cool... I just can't comprehend how when reading it back you wouldn't notice it? I want to believe it's a local dialect thing... Are you from a certain state or town where people just skip random words? 😂 Haha... I laughing with ya man.
@@oxygon2850 Southern Ohio, I am sure our speech is a bit odd sometimes!
@@oxygon2850 "No, you're cool." "I am laughing with you, man."
You got "you're" wrong and you left out the "am" in the second sentence.
If you are going to be a grammar Nazi then get it right yourself.