Why not use a 2x6 plate and then use 2x4's staggered on 24"OC. You then have a wall that is essentially framed at 12" OC. I would bet that would be alot less than the TStud, and is also very friendly to plumbers and electricians.
From what I recall, the cost versus 2x6 or 2x8 isn't much different. Plus those are already r20 or r30 if you get the insulated ones and the structural rigidity is much higher plus headers and top plates are going to be simplified as well and cuts down more on the thermal bridging.
it always astonishes me how little value is placed in the USA on the strength in walls. The second point is, I would never use an isolation that burns, or even produces poisonous gases while burning or melting. For me I would use 2x8 for strength. On two storey houses, the 2x8 go all the way, not ending below the second floor, with a second set above. Isolation would be stone wool. When you need additional Isolation or protection against fire you place a 50 mm continuous dense (heavy) stone wool cover on the outside wall.
What in the good gracious are you talking about? Are you an actual carpenter? Much thought goes into the strength of walls when building in the USA. Balloon framing is very seldom used any more.
The building codes vary vastly state by state or even county by county. Most houses in the US are single story and many places see quite mild weather year round.
Are you letting perfection be the enemy of good? This contractor is right in that his use will still improve overall thermal efficiency of the structure, and make installation of the electrical, plumbing, and HVAC linsets simpler/cheaper/faster.
1:33 You said: "2 different pieces of 2x2", you meant to say "2 different pieces of 2x4".
Technically we are both incorrect. It is a 2X3.
Why not use a 2x6 plate and then use 2x4's staggered on 24"OC. You then have a wall that is essentially framed at 12" OC. I would bet that would be alot less than the TStud, and is also very friendly to plumbers and electricians.
We are definitely trying to find the absolute best method. I think we will be trying that at some point too. Great tip.
From what I recall, the cost versus 2x6 or 2x8 isn't much different. Plus those are already r20 or r30 if you get the insulated ones and the structural rigidity is much higher plus headers and top plates are going to be simplified as well and cuts down more on the thermal bridging.
What about zip r 3?
Exterior insulation is always a good choice.
it always astonishes me how little value is placed in the USA on the strength in walls. The second point is, I would never use an isolation that burns, or even produces poisonous gases while burning or melting. For me I would use 2x8 for strength. On two storey houses, the 2x8 go all the way, not ending below the second floor, with a second set above.
Isolation would be stone wool. When you need additional Isolation or protection against fire you place a 50 mm continuous dense (heavy) stone wool cover on the outside wall.
How long do those 2x8's need to be? Where do you get them?
What in the good gracious are you talking about? Are you an actual carpenter? Much thought goes into the strength of walls when building in the USA. Balloon framing is very seldom used any more.
The building codes vary vastly state by state or even county by county. Most houses in the US are single story and many places see quite mild weather year round.
Kind of defeating the purpose of the t-studs if you are not using throughout the exterior walls. Waste of time & money if not used properly.
Are you letting perfection be the enemy of good? This contractor is right in that his use will still improve overall thermal efficiency of the structure, and make installation of the electrical, plumbing, and HVAC linsets simpler/cheaper/faster.
No it’s not the future.