I understand the detail Matt but when I think it’d be beneficial for some of your viewers if you took the time to show a mock-up of how the air-tight envelope looks because sometimes the camera angle doesn’t capture it..... Keep up the great work and amazing projects.... God Bless
Jakes focus on simplicity and reducing cost is so awesome, why complicate? why spend money where we don't need it? Steve is a like a practical artist! love when he breaks it down; every line and angle is a conscious decision. He never compromises beauty and flow or practicality. Love it
Excellent, excellent. No load-bearing interior walls. That means all sheetrock and flooring can be laid before the placement of any interior walls. All electrical can come from the attic. If a wall needs to be moved in a remodel, pull the wire out of the wall into the attic, pull or cut the nails, move the wall, shove wires back down into the wall and reconnect. Patch the ceiling, walls, and floor. Quick and easy.
I really like this idea, it makes almost everything easier and more flexible. The only thing that is going to take more work is the electrical. 100% taking inspiration from this for my future house.
I find that Steve is not only extremely talented, but his explanations go from A to B without missing anything. I'm still confused about the Advantech top plate detail, but I never miss a beat with Steve
@@marcob1729 Think of the advantech as the bridge to connect the zip R Sheathing (air barrier) to the drywall ceiling (air barrier) . The advantech gets taped to the Zip R on the exterior and then provides a flange to seal to on the interior
@@marcob1729 , I believe the Advantech goes out to the exterior sheathing, on top of the tape plate, and taped. Then the trusses are set on top of it, so it's basically sandwiched between the top plate and trusses.
As an electrician, if you did all my ceiling layouts I wouldn't complain at all!! I love working with builders who are always trying to build a better end product.
Mat, First, thanks for the vid, always interesting to see the baby steps to sensable building. 1. Cold formed, galvanized steel is greener(80%+ recycled), lighter, will not burn, needs only a 2 man crew for framing, bug proof, better thermal bridging, and MUCH stronger. 36" on center studs. I put up 20'- 6/12" box beams by hand. A crane will cost $$$ & is NOT needed. 2. You are claiming to save $ by not digging a full basement. Missouri will see temps well below freezing under the main floor of this house. Another surface that will need plenty of insulation, and will have a cold wind sucking warm air out. A slab on grade makes much more sense, the ground under a house will not see cold temps and the insulated slab can be the house heat source with PEX tubes and hot water heater. 3. Cellulose insulation?? Newspaper, even treated with bromine will smoulder. It may be ~R65 today, but will compact over a few years to be much less. 4. T Studs? 1/3 fewer for 5x the price. $2.50/ft.? It is still wood, will warp, will burn, will be eaten by bugs & will rot. Architects/builders simply won't learn commercial/industrial building methods that are better in every way.
I LOVE this house! I love that it’s not fancy, but will be an amazing house to live in that makes the most of its site! Thanks for sharing. Hope to see more of it as it’s completed.
That’s how to build a house. We are moving to Vegas and going to buy land and build our own performance house . Thank you for all these ideas. Our current home in Texas is 3400sf. I replaces 25 can lights with airtight ones and used like 30 cans of great stuff air sealing everything. I also re tapped and mastic all my aluminum air conditioner ducts before covering then with r10 duct wrap. I sprayed in R60 and the AC doesn’t run much anymore. I was horrified by all the leakage of air into my attic. I now know where dust comes from too. Thanks for all the videos. I watched a lot of them to pick up all these tips.
I'm just your regular guy, I love seeing all the "tech* that goes into the building of these. I wish there was a "general" price for the build, based on all the tech used. I know most aren't completed homes, but just for frame of mind and future planning of my own home. I first I saw Matt on "Abandoned Mansion", and I'm always excited to see how much technology is advancing building materials.
Been a member of this channel, and now the Build network, and the advise is awesome. If you are looking for ideas for shows, I think a lot of current homeowners would really like to see ways to better seal and do things for homes that are finished, without complete guts or teardowns. And while some after the fact stuff would be impossible without a complete home reno (Ie: leaky air sillplates) Unfortunately alot of home builders to save $26 on a build, causes issues for homeowners the entire time the home is owned, and as well, bad for the environment because of the extra heat/cooling cost. As well what causes things like cold kitchen floors and the like. As homeowners we do what we can, make sure door seals are good, exterior caulking, etc. But when you do all that and still have cold air coming out the holes of your electrical outlets, (as an example), be nice to know whats missed
Well put Virgil, too many "experienced builders" come on here toting construction like this is criminal. That's because they lie in a world of low price/high risk. Sometimes they may win, usually the homeowner loses, and in my experience, loses big
I _LIKE_ the design of that house, I hope we can get another look when it's closer to completion. Question though, looking at the shadows as you were recording this segment I got the impression that the cantilevered portion of the home is pointed roughly to the south. If so, did the homeowner give any consideration to adding solar panels onto that _HUGE_ "shed roof"? I know in Missouri a 1:12 slope isn't ideal for solar in the winter months but something is better than nothing! . . When Steve and Matt where talking in the second half of the video, was anyone else thinking "Ogre and Elf"? . . Not a slam against Steve or Matt!
Matt, thank you for providing such detailed and informative videos. Along with Michael Sites' comment about how the air tight envelope comes together--and in my case, specifically the ceiling to wall corners with the 8" layer of 3/4 AdvanTech that Jake touched on--a mock up and/or including a detail from the prints would be beneficial and appreciated.
The crawlspace portion is not "cantilevered" like you keep saying. It is simply supported between the concrete piers. Only the steel deck at the end is cantilevered. I would like to see some close ups of that steel deck and how it connects to the concrete piers.
Yeh, I dont trust that deck in the long term. I would do 24" or 36" long 1/2" SS threaded rod sleeved in plastic with some nice big custom made 3/4"IDx2"ODx3/4"H washers captured on the bolt and poured into the concrete. 3 on the tension side 2 on the compression side, than epoxy grouted in to waterproof the flange.. Looks like they are using 4x5/8" rods with room to grout them in.
Those 8 small bolts have to carry the load. Add snow, furniture, potted plants, and high winds. Things might get weird. Also, how is that flat roof going to handle snow pack?
I bought a 1000 SF rambler in MN in 97. When I started remodeling it I discovered that the hardwood floors and drywall ceilings were installed before any interior partitions. the only insulation in the walls was a foil covered blanket that was applied over the exterior of the studs and then covered with a fiber sheathing. When I pulled the siding material, it was obvious that the walls had been manufactured off site and were lettered. I ended up removing most of the blanket as I replaced all the windows and in most cases, they were different sizes and in different locations. When I was done, the only original things on the exterior were the concrete step at the side door and the foundation. When I removed the drywall inside, I cut it 1. 1/2" below the ceiling so that I could flat tape the new drywall. I didn't want to mess with the ceilings as they were a hand texture that would be difficult to match. I ended up skim coating the ceiling in the Kitchen.
I'm waiting for an episode of the Build Show on how to insulate a Sprinter Van for nomadic van life. Curious what insulation Matt would choose for a project like that.
So much skill and knowledge applied to high end homes. Steve is an amazing architect. Now if we could come up with a design for a 1000sqf home, using ICF, with a $100k budget, I would really be thrilled. I would want max performance in the envelop and go low key for interior design.
Seriously stay away from ICF. They arent cost effective. If youre looking for dyi cost effective and higher performance look at a product like thermomass CIP. ICF. Borders on a con the way its represented
@@louisalterio4979 Waaaay to expensive. to the point it's almost a con. Look at Thermomass CIP, they push icf saying you can do it yourself. You can call a local yard and rent commercial concrete forms which are just as easy to put up. ICF are $15-20 a face foot, commercial forms with insulations are under 10 a face foot. and if you like a concrete finish youre done with your walls. put electric plumbing and ducts in the floor.
Matt! Kudos! This is a great video with so much good information and leaves you wanting more details. If there was ever a reason to higher an architect and a general contractor this video shows what a great team produce. I'm so impressed. Thanks
Love your videos and love the creativity and care that goes into these houses, not a lot of contractors out there like that, thanks for the good stuff!
does zip-r have a lower sheer strength since the OSB is further from the framing? I would think you would lose sheer strength the thicker the foam is? At some point you are relying on the nail bending strength which gets lower over distance
I wonder about the flame resistance. It seems to me that if God forbid there was a fire, that foam would up up pretty quickly and engulf the whole house in fames and toxic gases.
@@njric71 Yeah, but just think about the 0.1% energy savings they're achieving! Putting your life at risk is a small price to pay for energy efficiency.
@@rogerhodges7656 Well, it does, I have had that conversation with my engineer. It does diminish a bit with the "couple" created by the bending nail, but there is still a sufficient value for this location. On Huber's website there is published shear data for the R-Sheathing
Went through all the comments and answers and didn’t see my questions: I don’t understand insulating both sides of the concrete. Will there be trapped moisture (cracks aside) in between layers? I would like to see building details in the garage/shop, too. BTW I’m enjoying the BUILD Show newsletter.
Up front; I'm a geothermal HVAC contractor in the DFW market. I just recently found your channel and I think you are doing a wonderful educational service to the building industry. As you are probably aware we recently experienced a severe weather event in TX. It is time to implement simple building codes that reflect energy savings and the advantage of fewer frozen pipes. Now, my complaint. How do I get my HVAC duct system through your complex truss system? I was watching the mechanical room/basement segment and was thinking how to do get my stuff in there? I often find, that due to restrictive clear area opening in a floor or roof system I can not find adequate space to run a duct system that delivers the proper air flow at the acceptable velocity. To further exasperate the problem the truss fabricator uses a truly too large binding plate at each joint in the truss that requires the HVAC duct contractor to cut the excess metal at each joint of the truss to avoid shredding the Mylar vapor barrier on common flex duct. I am asking that architects start to think more trade compliant so that no subcontractor wastes time working around overlapping areas. An electrician & AV guy can go nearly anywhere in a truss; HVAC needs free area in straight lines to work well. Remember, few clients call the Architect when their bedroom is not comfortable, they call the HVAC guy. Help me, Help you :-)
Michael - I am the architect here, I never design a house without your goals in mind. In many cases we get the loads calculated and a prelim duct layout. Your complaint, and I see it too much, is with architects and GC's that do not do their job
Adrian, I lived in a house with studs on 2’ centers and 1/2” drywall. There was no performance difference. Also, 5/8 drywall labor costs are identical to 1/2” if you know my drywall sub! 😜
Please show the finished product. I'd also like to see the gutters for the long roof -- a lot of water is to be expected. Will animals (and humans) seek refuge under the house?
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 🤣🤣🤣. I'm just joking Steve. I love the show and the content. What you guys put out is pure Gold. I learn more from you guys (for free by way) then my expensive degree. At some point the difference between R200 and R300 is just bragging rights for the builders. Love it tho. Thanks for passing info down to the next generation. This show has shown me so much. I'm a HUGE fan.
@@shootmovecommunicate3322 there is point where the level is somewhat peaked out, but usually it's around R-90 ish, provided everything else is good, like windows etc.... Hanks for joining us
I like the design of this house. I love the pillar design. It lends itself to solar power. However, I believe it was a mistake to mount the deck flanges that way. I would have mounted them on a vertical face to put all fasteners in shear. In this design, only the fasteners closest to the house bear the load in tension. Fasteners work best in shear. Instead of shear, I would have added extra mount fastener with locked wired nuts near the fasteners near the house. Another alternative would be build a stub tube in the concrete pillar and mount the deck tube over this stub and fasten it horizontally in on the side. In that way this stub bears the load and the fasteners bear very little force. I not sure how your design prevents fastener corrosion/fatigue. The flange sits right on the concrete. If water enters between the flange and concreate, it could cause corrosion. If you notice on street sign flanges, there is a gap between the flange and road/sidewalk to promote ventilation. One final thought, how much wind load can that deck cover overhang withstand? Would it be worth tying two cables from the overhang to the concrete base? I would ask the engineer.
I'd love more details about the ceiling air barrier thing of hanging the sheetrock first then, framing then framing the interior non load bearing walls. I can do some of that on my next build, but its an interesting strategy for my next one if I switch to floor and ceiling trusses. Probably a lot less waste on sheet rock.
Great video. I would love to see a video which expands on the insulation requirements for a place like missouri. I'm running into difficulties right now because it seems like insulation tech is either designed for the cold north, or the hot south... and not a humid place like missouri which experiences both ranges of extreme temperatures. I'm quite sensitive to mold, so I'm a bit worried on the project I have ahead of me that I might make something more moldy than I would like.
I saw on YT Channel “Wild Wonderful Off-Grid” that the homeowners were canceled by their Homeowners Insurance Company until they closed in their crawl space. Any issues in MO?
Matt! Love the Chanel and commitment to craftsmanship. I’m relocating to Houston Tx. Do you know of any General contractors that are doing good work in that area???
What are your thoughts on this: In colder climates you would want to have the more vapour resistant insulation (e.g. EPS) on the inside. Now you basicly add a vapour barrier on the outside and risk condensation in the stud wall sheating. A vapour barrier on the inside never perfect... Having the EPS on the inside, or better PIR with Alu sheating, would act directly as a vapour barrier. The thermal bridging can still be avoided at interior walls. Let me know what your considerations were! Thx from the Netherlands!
question. what's your view on production house builders vs custom builders vs finding your own contractors and being your own builder. for a new home owner. pros and cons of them all
I make less then 50k a year, planning on building a 5k sqft house to similar standards, there are lots of things they do that I could never afford, but this channel has really formed how my build was designed
To be fair though location has alot to do with it, my current house is 2300 square feet and it was 88k dollars including the property. I see alot of people spending that on kitchen cabinets
@@townsendliving9750 That is fair. I'm currently rebuilding my little 850sq house and doing encapsulation. Everything is being replaced except the slab, the rafters and the joists (and even some of those are being replaced). When you do it yourself, it is way, WAY less expensive. But it is time consuming.
Excellent construction techniques and very good explanations, congrats on all of your success Matt, I first started watching around 2014 when you're channel was still picking up steam. Bravo, keep up the good work.
I love the video's and the new technology put into the houses shown but have my doubts about availability and the cost reaching the average consumer any time soon.
@@vannorman1116 i actually mostly install loosefill fiberglass in attics. Obviously homes with no attics or conditioned attics are spray foamed. I install r60 in all new builds and renovations.
@@treich1234 I certainly have. For attics though it is very different. And this is simply because loosefill is installed flat and it would be very difficult to compensate for every single pot light, fan, pipe duct etc. Of course closed cell spray does a much better job for heat ducts especially when they are higher than 2 feet from the floor of the attic.
I'm curious how the attic space will get blown with cellulose? From roof deck? Looks like there's almost no space to navigate up there in some places, plus scuttle would penetrate air barrier. Do tell...
I assume he hasn't got round to it yet. In one of Matt's previous videos on Jake's personal house (also in Missouri) you could see the sheathing breaks were blocked.
Ide sure love to come Work with you for you!... I really like the home's you build. Most of all your Attitude towards work really enthusiastic... keep up the great work buddy Zack from Colorado
R65 ceiling discussion. Believe there was no mention of a poly barrier being installed between gyproc and the wood strapping. Am I correct? If no poly barrier installed, why not. Thanks
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Thank you. Would this product be installed in similar to poly? I assume the same product would be installed on the walls between gyproc & studs. Matt talked about acoustical sealant being applied in the perimeter, and I assume this product is imbedded into the sealant. (I believe the video talked about the gyproc being embedded into the sealant. Wanted to better understand this. Thanks)
I saw two layers of roof Zips towards the end of this (on the cantilevered section anyway)...but it looked like there are also two layers of wall Zips (green) above the walls in the attic space--did I see that right?
Why didn't they use the T-studs for the king stud and headers? Their site says they can be used as headers. And you lose some of their value when not using them under the windows @18:48 . Did they just run out?
I understand the detail Matt but when I think it’d be beneficial for some of your viewers if you took the time to show a mock-up of how the air-tight envelope looks because sometimes the camera angle doesn’t capture it..... Keep up the great work and amazing projects.... God Bless
Jakes focus on simplicity and reducing cost is so awesome, why complicate? why spend money where we don't need it?
Steve is a like a practical artist! love when he breaks it down; every line and angle is a conscious decision. He never compromises beauty and flow or practicality. Love it
Thank you sir!!
It’s because his possesses that Baczek Instinct!
Would you come to Madison, WI to build my house!!😊 I am saving this video to use when designing my final lifecycle home!
Excellent, excellent. No load-bearing interior walls. That means all sheetrock and flooring can be laid before the placement of any interior walls. All electrical can come from the attic. If a wall needs to be moved in a remodel, pull the wire out of the wall into the attic, pull or cut the nails, move the wall, shove wires back down into the wall and reconnect. Patch the ceiling, walls, and floor. Quick and easy.
I really like this idea, it makes almost everything easier and more flexible. The only thing that is going to take more work is the electrical.
100% taking inspiration from this for my future house.
@@namAehT I had a young couple this summer on a paint job that was in the design phase of a new house and that is exactly what I told them to do.
I am a huge fan of Steve's work. On top of that, he has a knack for explaining building science that is second to none. Thanks for the great content.
Thanks Drew - much appreciated
I find that Steve is not only extremely talented, but his explanations go from A to B without missing anything. I'm still confused about the Advantech top plate detail, but I never miss a beat with Steve
@@marcob1729 Think of the advantech as the bridge to connect the zip R Sheathing (air barrier) to the drywall ceiling (air barrier) . The advantech gets taped to the Zip R on the exterior and then provides a flange to seal to on the interior
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Thanks for the reply! So, the advantech plate goes out beyond the other top plates and is flush with the sheathing?
@@marcob1729 , I believe the Advantech goes out to the exterior sheathing, on top of the tape plate, and taped. Then the trusses are set on top of it, so it's basically sandwiched between the top plate and trusses.
Super appreciate the constant thought of the price the environment pays during a build.
Wow! Every time I see Steve’s work I am so impressed. Top of the game for sure.
"Follow her (Mother Nature) rules." So well said, Steve!! Keep up the good work!
Thank you - can't win against Mother Nature, she has a perfect record
Thanks for bring Steve and Jake back. These guys impress me every time I listen to how they think through a build.
I love those guys.....LOL
As an electrician, if you did all my ceiling layouts I wouldn't complain at all!! I love working with builders who are always trying to build a better end product.
Also Steve, I am in love with the design. So intentional and unified
Mat,
First, thanks for the vid, always interesting to see the baby steps to sensable building.
1. Cold formed, galvanized steel is greener(80%+ recycled), lighter, will not burn, needs only a 2 man crew for framing, bug proof, better thermal bridging, and MUCH stronger. 36" on center studs. I put up 20'- 6/12" box beams by hand. A crane will cost $$$ & is NOT needed.
2. You are claiming to save $ by not digging a full basement. Missouri will see temps well below freezing under the main floor of this house. Another surface that will need plenty of insulation, and will have a cold wind sucking warm air out. A slab on grade makes much more sense, the ground under a house will not see cold temps and the insulated slab can be the house heat source with PEX tubes and hot water heater.
3. Cellulose insulation?? Newspaper, even treated with bromine will smoulder. It may be ~R65 today, but will compact over a few years to be much less.
4. T Studs? 1/3 fewer for 5x the price. $2.50/ft.? It is still wood, will warp, will burn, will be eaten by bugs & will rot.
Architects/builders simply won't learn commercial/industrial building methods that are better in every way.
Great job Jake - all those details that no one will ever see is what truly makes a home great!
Matt....can we get a followup video on this completed home?? I know it is a heavy order to ask! Love your channel!
I LOVE this house! I love that it’s not fancy, but will be an amazing house to live in that makes the most of its site! Thanks for sharing. Hope to see more of it as it’s completed.
That’s how to build a house. We are moving to Vegas and going to buy land and build our own performance house . Thank you for all these ideas.
Our current home in Texas is 3400sf. I replaces 25 can lights with airtight ones and used like 30 cans of great stuff air sealing everything. I also re tapped and mastic all my aluminum air conditioner ducts before covering then with r10 duct wrap. I sprayed in R60 and the AC doesn’t run much anymore. I was horrified by all the leakage of air into my attic. I now know where dust comes from too.
Thanks for all the videos. I watched a lot of them to pick up all these tips.
Matt is good, Jake is THE MAN!!!
You three are pushing building science further each month really. I watch your stuff from just 5 years ago, and it's really evolved.
Innovation is key
And as with all science it’s either incomplete or wrong. The 100 year “bomber” details should be checked for failures periodically
I'm just your regular guy, I love seeing all the "tech* that goes into the building of these. I wish there was a "general" price for the build, based on all the tech used. I know most aren't completed homes, but just for frame of mind and future planning of my own home.
I first I saw Matt on "Abandoned Mansion", and I'm always excited to see how much technology is advancing building materials.
Awesome house! I live a couple miles away. That basement is for Tornado Alley! great build.
Been a member of this channel, and now the Build network, and the advise is awesome. If you are looking for ideas for shows, I think a lot of current homeowners would really like to see ways to better seal and do things for homes that are finished, without complete guts or teardowns. And while some after the fact stuff would be impossible without a complete home reno (Ie: leaky air sillplates) Unfortunately alot of home builders to save $26 on a build, causes issues for homeowners the entire time the home is owned, and as well, bad for the environment because of the extra heat/cooling cost. As well what causes things like cold kitchen floors and the like. As homeowners we do what we can, make sure door seals are good, exterior caulking, etc. But when you do all that and still have cold air coming out the holes of your electrical outlets, (as an example), be nice to know whats missed
Well put Virgil, too many "experienced builders" come on here toting construction like this is criminal. That's because they lie in a world of low price/high risk. Sometimes they may win, usually the homeowner loses, and in my experience, loses big
I _LIKE_ the design of that house, I hope we can get another look when it's closer to completion. Question though, looking at the shadows as you were recording this segment I got the impression that the cantilevered portion of the home is pointed roughly to the south. If so, did the homeowner give any consideration to adding solar panels onto that _HUGE_ "shed roof"? I know in Missouri a 1:12 slope isn't ideal for solar in the winter months but something is better than nothing!
.
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When Steve and Matt where talking in the second half of the video, was anyone else thinking "Ogre and Elf"?
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Not a slam against Steve or Matt!
Matt, thank you for providing such detailed and informative videos. Along with Michael Sites' comment about how the air tight envelope comes together--and in my case, specifically the ceiling to wall corners with the 8" layer of 3/4 AdvanTech that Jake touched on--a mock up and/or including a detail from the prints would be beneficial and appreciated.
Your content just gets better and better- Keep up the good work, your are bringing the industry to a higher level!
Looking forward to your videos Steve
The crawlspace portion is not "cantilevered" like you keep saying. It is simply supported between the concrete piers. Only the steel deck at the end is cantilevered. I would like to see some close ups of that steel deck and how it connects to the concrete piers.
Yeh, I dont trust that deck in the long term. I would do 24" or 36" long 1/2" SS threaded rod sleeved in plastic with some nice big custom made 3/4"IDx2"ODx3/4"H washers captured on the bolt and poured into the concrete. 3 on the tension side 2 on the compression side, than epoxy grouted in to waterproof the flange.. Looks like they are using 4x5/8" rods with room to grout them in.
24:30 , 25:07
Those 8 small bolts have to carry the load. Add snow, furniture, potted plants, and high winds. Things might get weird. Also, how is that flat roof going to handle snow pack?
I bought a 1000 SF rambler in MN in 97. When I started remodeling it I discovered that the hardwood floors and drywall ceilings were installed before any interior partitions. the only insulation in the walls was a foil covered blanket that was applied over the exterior of the studs and then covered with a fiber sheathing. When I pulled the siding material, it was obvious that the walls had been manufactured off site and were lettered. I ended up removing most of the blanket as I replaced all the windows and in most cases, they were different sizes and in different locations. When I was done, the only original things on the exterior were the concrete step at the side door and the foundation. When I removed the drywall inside, I cut it 1. 1/2" below the ceiling so that I could flat tape the new drywall. I didn't want to mess with the ceilings as they were a hand texture that would be difficult to match. I ended up skim coating the ceiling in the Kitchen.
Great looking house! I used to live in Columbia:) Great city!
Such an informative video, and to boot, each of the people seems like such a genuinely nice person who you'd enjoy having a beer with.
In basement Jake said concrete floor feels cooler due to emissivity, should be conduction
I'm waiting for an episode of the Build Show on how to insulate a Sprinter Van for nomadic van life. Curious what insulation Matt would choose for a project like that.
Have you checked out havelock wool yet?
So much skill and knowledge applied to high end homes. Steve is an amazing architect.
Now if we could come up with a design for a 1000sqf home, using ICF, with a $100k budget, I would really be thrilled. I would want max performance in the envelop and go low key for interior design.
Seriously stay away from ICF. They arent cost effective. If youre looking for dyi cost effective and higher performance look at a product like thermomass CIP. ICF. Borders on a con the way its represented
@@sparksmcgee6641 what do you think about Iccf? I’m thinking about using “the perfect block” for my build. Lumber prices are sky high now anyway.
@@louisalterio4979 Waaaay to expensive. to the point it's almost a con. Look at Thermomass CIP, they push icf saying you can do it yourself. You can call a local yard and rent commercial concrete forms which are just as easy to put up. ICF are $15-20 a face foot, commercial forms with insulations are under 10 a face foot. and if you like a concrete finish youre done with your walls. put electric plumbing and ducts in the floor.
Go for a post frame house on concrete columns. Trusses spaced 8 ft oc cheap way to build a house
Awesome build! I like watching your shows and incorporating your skills into my own work!
Great, let me know if you have any questions
Matt! Kudos! This is a great video with so much good information and leaves you wanting more details. If there was ever a reason to higher an architect and a general contractor this video shows what a great team produce. I'm so impressed. Thanks
Thanks for all the effort it takes to show us this cool house.
Very welcome!
More of these videos - love it! Totally geeking out
Say tuned - you're not gonna believe it.....
Wow Jake.. You're such a smart builder.. 😍
very smart design, love the deck
I wish I had the skill to build like you guys. Nice job...
We all start on the same line man.....
I'd love to see a video all about that prepping that basement for insulation and slab!
With this recent extreme weather event COLD hope to hear you review your high performance projects
Smart building, solid materials, innovation. 👍
Would be great to see how the T-studs work in the corners, great details and great execution 👍
Their website details such things.
Love this design and the details. A lot of bang for the buck and smart design.
Great building an a tremendous interview. I would Love to see more like this. Keep up the amazing shows.
Combine that building with the German Schüco windows Matt showed recently, nice.
Love your videos and love the creativity and care that goes into these houses, not a lot of contractors out there like that, thanks for the good stuff!
Agreed
That's a pretty nice build, I've enjoyed watching it over at the build show network!
Where does one watch the build shoe network?
This house looks to be a copy of a high-end houseboat. I like it!
Very cool build. Dig the floor trusses and super cool on the "floating" foundation.
Thank you
Can you explain a little more about how you installed and the benefits of the 12” of plywood on the top plate
does zip-r have a lower sheer strength since the OSB is further from the framing? I would think you would lose sheer strength the thicker the foam is? At some point you are relying on the nail bending strength which gets lower over distance
The shear value declines a bit, but still more than enough to fullfill the need
I wonder about the flame resistance. It seems to me that if God forbid there was a fire, that foam would up up pretty quickly and engulf the whole house in fames and toxic gases.
@@njric71 Yeah, but just think about the 0.1% energy savings they're achieving! Putting your life at risk is a small price to pay for energy efficiency.
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 I would prefer to hear that from an engineer. A nail through 1'1/2 or 2" of foam has NO shear value.
@@rogerhodges7656 Well, it does, I have had that conversation with my engineer. It does diminish a bit with the "couple" created by the bending nail, but there is still a sufficient value for this location. On Huber's website there is published shear data for the R-Sheathing
'Off the shelf' - except the t-studs...
Jake builds top-notch homes. Always like his content.
T studs are made not super far from this area.
Extraordinary. Many thanks again.
30" to get below frost line and Matt says wow ... lol ... try Canada, where I live it is 6 feet !!! Let that sink in ... lol
I love the video Matt. Thank you for sharing. I have to say that you look like a Lilliputian next to Steve 🙂
Went through all the comments and answers and didn’t see my questions: I don’t understand insulating both sides of the concrete. Will there be trapped moisture (cracks aside) in between layers? I would like to see building details in the garage/shop, too. BTW I’m enjoying the BUILD Show newsletter.
Wow a ton of great lessons in this house!
Wow love this home!! Any opportunity to buy a set of plans for this?
Great video, thanks for the update
Would like to see a detail for that top plate.
me too, wonder what a building inspector would say seeing that the first time?
The side profile reminds me of a star destroyer
Is that good? lol
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 YES! All your houses look good, but I like this one a lot, and I'm a Star Wars fan. 👍
@@YTMD Thank you sir - I really like the look of this one too
WoW 🤩 another great video ‼️ thank you
Up front; I'm a geothermal HVAC contractor in the DFW market. I just recently found your channel and I think you are doing a wonderful educational service to the building industry. As you are probably aware we recently experienced a severe weather event in TX. It is time to implement simple building codes that reflect energy savings and the advantage of fewer frozen pipes. Now, my complaint. How do I get my HVAC duct system through your complex truss system? I was watching the mechanical room/basement segment and was thinking how to do get my stuff in there? I often find, that due to restrictive clear area opening in a floor or roof system I can not find adequate space to run a duct system that delivers the proper air flow at the acceptable velocity. To further exasperate the problem the truss fabricator uses a truly too large binding plate at each joint in the truss that requires the HVAC duct contractor to cut the excess metal at each joint of the truss to avoid shredding the Mylar vapor barrier on common flex duct. I am asking that architects start to think more trade compliant so that no subcontractor wastes time working around overlapping areas. An electrician & AV guy can go nearly anywhere in a truss; HVAC needs free area in straight lines to work well. Remember, few clients call the Architect when their bedroom is not comfortable, they call the HVAC guy. Help me, Help you :-)
Michael - I am the architect here, I never design a house without your goals in mind. In many cases we get the loads calculated and a prelim duct layout. Your complaint, and I see it too much, is with architects and GC's that do not do their job
I like the 24" OC with those T-studs. It helps offset some of the cost differential between the fancy engineered stuff and conventional lumber 16" OC.
Yes but you'll have to go with 5/8" drywall to make sturdy those unsupported sections of wall, and that can get expensive
T studs are not cheap. Staggered stud is probably a better value.
Adrian, I lived in a house with studs on 2’ centers and 1/2” drywall. There was no performance difference. Also, 5/8 drywall labor costs are identical to 1/2” if you know my drywall sub! 😜
Please show the finished product. I'd also like to see the gutters for the long roof -- a lot of water is to be expected. Will animals (and humans) seek refuge under the house?
Excellent design, but I'd also like to see if and how they are going conceal the sloped grade crawlspace area under the house.
These home builders are just using R values to brag about when they see each other. 🤣🤣🤣 Love it.
Cmon man - insulation is a pretty inexpensive enhancement
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 🤣🤣🤣. I'm just joking Steve. I love the show and the content. What you guys put out is pure Gold. I learn more from you guys (for free by way) then my expensive degree. At some point the difference between R200 and R300 is just bragging rights for the builders. Love it tho. Thanks for passing info down to the next generation. This show has shown me so much. I'm a HUGE fan.
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Is it really an enhancement though? How many years does it take to recoup the additional cost of going from r-39 to r-65?
@@shootmovecommunicate3322 there is point where the level is somewhat peaked out, but usually it's around R-90 ish, provided everything else is good, like windows etc.... Hanks for joining us
@@kungfoochicken08 I have houses that reap that benefit in maybe less than 5 years, for many clients comfort is very important...
I like the design of this house. I love the pillar design. It lends itself to solar power. However, I believe it was a mistake to mount the deck flanges that way. I would have mounted them on a vertical face to put all fasteners in shear. In this design, only the fasteners closest to the house bear the load in tension. Fasteners work best in shear. Instead of shear, I would have added extra mount fastener with locked wired nuts near the fasteners near the house. Another alternative would be build a stub tube in the concrete pillar and mount the deck tube over this stub and fasten it horizontally in on the side. In that way this stub bears the load and the fasteners bear very little force. I not sure how your design prevents fastener corrosion/fatigue. The flange sits right on the concrete. If water enters between the flange and concreate, it could cause corrosion. If you notice on street sign flanges, there is a gap between the flange and road/sidewalk to promote ventilation. One final thought, how much wind load can that deck cover overhang withstand? Would it be worth tying two cables from the overhang to the concrete base? I would ask the engineer.
While I appreciate your thoughts this whole design was fully engineered, and no cables required
Steve, skip the engineer, you can just ask UA-cam commenters!
Incredible build! Cheers 🍻
I'd love more details about the ceiling air barrier thing of hanging the sheetrock first then, framing then framing the interior non load bearing walls. I can do some of that on my next build, but its an interesting strategy for my next one if I switch to floor and ceiling trusses. Probably a lot less waste on sheet rock.
Build Like a standard industrial loft building
You can change interior walls anytime
I would like to hear about how they insulate kitchen plumbing above that open crawl space.
Only the drain is in the floor frame, and its R-60
I hope you show use an overview of the place once it is completed!!!
Stand by, the info coming is EPIC
Love the cantilever!!!👍
me too lol
any interior wall could be moved or removed later, it Is a Really cool looking Deck !
Great video. I would love to see a video which expands on the insulation requirements for a place like missouri. I'm running into difficulties right now because it seems like insulation tech is either designed for the cold north, or the hot south... and not a humid place like missouri which experiences both ranges of extreme temperatures.
I'm quite sensitive to mold, so I'm a bit worried on the project I have ahead of me that I might make something more moldy than I would like.
I’m a simple man. I see Steve is in a video, I click.
WE are simple men!! Living in a simple world - thanks for joining in buddy - be safe
great episode. informative. inspiring
Thank you sir
Steve looking like he could build the house himself, without the crane.
yOU GET THE "bIG pICTURE"
У нас в России каркасники строят без крана!!!
Правда у нас каркасники - дома не полноценные, это дома для бедных и для дачников.
Jake why not use energy heel trusses to maintain insulation depth throughout your ceiling? Love the details
@@bit_of_dan probably right as there is always a give and take in design
they do have 12" heels
I saw on YT Channel “Wild Wonderful Off-Grid” that the homeowners were canceled by their Homeowners Insurance Company until they closed in their crawl space. Any issues in MO?
Matt! Love the Chanel and commitment to craftsmanship. I’m relocating to Houston Tx. Do you know of any General contractors that are doing good work in that area???
It's nice to know there are builders out there who know what they're doing. How do I find them for my own house?
What are your thoughts on this: In colder climates you would want to have the more vapour resistant insulation (e.g. EPS) on the inside. Now you basicly add a vapour barrier on the outside and risk condensation in the stud wall sheating. A vapour barrier on the inside never perfect... Having the EPS on the inside, or better PIR with Alu sheating, would act directly as a vapour barrier. The thermal bridging can still be avoided at interior walls. Let me know what your considerations were! Thx from the Netherlands!
question. what's your view on production house builders vs custom builders vs finding your own contractors and being your own builder. for a new home owner. pros and cons of them all
Can you make a follow-up on this one? Would like to see how it looks with the vegetation grown back. :)
"... pretty compact house... 2600sq range..."
My house is about 850sq. I feel attacked.
same
Yup, most of Matt's content is for the 5% and up crowd.
I make less then 50k a year, planning on building a 5k sqft house to similar standards, there are lots of things they do that I could never afford, but this channel has really formed how my build was designed
To be fair though location has alot to do with it, my current house is 2300 square feet and it was 88k dollars including the property. I see alot of people spending that on kitchen cabinets
@@townsendliving9750 That is fair. I'm currently rebuilding my little 850sq house and doing encapsulation. Everything is being replaced except the slab, the rafters and the joists (and even some of those are being replaced). When you do it yourself, it is way, WAY less expensive. But it is time consuming.
Excellent construction techniques and very good explanations, congrats on all of your success Matt, I first started watching around 2014 when you're channel was still picking up steam. Bravo, keep up the good work.
I love the video's and the new technology put into the houses shown but have my doubts about availability and the cost reaching the average consumer any time soon.
R65 ceilings that's the way to go. Good job Matt. Keep up the good work. Although I do live in Canada where it is much colder lol.
Spray foam is king in Canada correct ?
@@vannorman1116 i actually mostly install loosefill fiberglass in attics. Obviously homes with no attics or conditioned attics are spray foamed. I install r60 in all new builds and renovations.
Ever heard of diminishing returns?
@@treich1234 I certainly have. For attics though it is very different. And this is simply because loosefill is installed flat and it would be very difficult to compensate for every single pot light, fan, pipe duct etc. Of course closed cell spray does a much better job for heat ducts especially when they are higher than 2 feet from the floor of the attic.
I'm curious how the attic space will get blown with cellulose? From roof deck? Looks like there's almost no space to navigate up there in some places, plus scuttle would penetrate air barrier. Do tell...
IIRC they left off some of the blocking above the ceiling so it could be blown in from the outside, under the eaves...
is there a video showing the insulating under the 1st floor?
How was the floor insulated. Subfloor is on so must have been from below. How did you do that?
Exactly what I am trying to find out. Not only that, but then what did they put over it as bottom sheathing?
What's wrong with polyurethane foam? It off gasses very quickly and then becomes inert. Doesn't settle in your wall cavities.
I noticed he had not blocked the sheathing breaks from the interior. Is it not required for his location, or has he just not gotten to it yet?
I assume he hasn't got round to it yet. In one of Matt's previous videos on Jake's personal house (also in Missouri) you could see the sheathing breaks were blocked.
Ide sure love to come Work with you for you!... I really like the home's you build. Most of all your Attitude towards work really enthusiastic... keep up the great work buddy
Zack from Colorado
Where in Colorado?
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Do you work with Matt
R65 ceiling discussion. Believe there was no mention of a poly barrier being installed between gyproc and the wood strapping. Am I correct? If no poly barrier installed, why not. Thanks
Siga Majrex Smart Vapor Retarder is being installed, no poly
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Thank you. Would this product be installed in similar to poly? I assume the same product would be installed on the walls between gyproc & studs. Matt talked about acoustical sealant being applied in the perimeter, and I assume this product is imbedded into the sealant. (I believe the video talked about the gyproc being embedded into the sealant. Wanted to better understand this. Thanks)
How are they going to insulate the floor joists in the pier section?
I saw two layers of roof Zips towards the end of this (on the cantilevered section anyway)...but it looked like there are also two layers of wall Zips (green) above the walls in the attic space--did I see that right?
Would love to know in detail the insulation on the exposed floor joist.
Why didn't they use the T-studs for the king stud and headers? Their site says they can be used as headers. And you lose some of their value when not using them under the windows @18:48 . Did they just run out?
Blown insulation, needed to close the cavity off
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 OK, Thanks Steve.
Good stuff! would love to see the venting detail at the high end of roof. What was the insulation plan for the floor system above the crawl space?
@Craig E the roof is vented around ALL three sides and at the high point
The better question is, why are you not following on IG?
This discusses the insulation a few days ago instagram.com/p/CKEfE0UDlZB/
@Craig E I use IG on my PC with an ad-blocker and automatic video turned off. It's a very different experience than mobile.
@@robertfeliciano5723 Thank you