So many critics out there, but none of them making any videos. best thing I liked about yours, was that you made a mistake and you weren't afraid to show it. About the nuts being installed on the wrong components
I just installed 5100’s with old man emu 2884x springs using the method to decompress/compress the coils by unbolting the lower ball joint mounts. Way safer IMO and really simple to push that shock shaft up all the way through the top hat.
I replaced my 5100s by swinging the lower control arm down & loosen the center top nut on the strut with a jack under the lower control arm. Once you release the pressure on the jack, coil spring will slowly begin to extend this makes it easier to remove the strut and spring without using spring compressors (repeat the process to install the new one) and the cap stays in place. I was told by 4Wheel that this setup was made to level a vehicle not to lift it even tho I did it. They said we shouldn't use the top groove on the 5100, use the 3rd groove instead to obtain a descent "lift" on the front and stay level with the rear 5100s for a better ride. If we want a better lift; to replace springs with Eibach and use the 2nd groove on the strut and install an add-a-leaf on the rear or block spacers (I hate blocks). Nice Video!! GO TACO!
What would you use instead ? I hardly ever go off-road and stay on paved roads and would want a nice soft ride. Thank you in advance@@JoseMartinez-jw2dy
To remove the strut properly.. Remove the two lower bolts that support the lower ball joint and swing the lower swing arm out of the way. Instead of removing the spindle.
Yeah.....Like drop the lower control arm to get the shock out......Replace the top shock mount instead of using the old POS one. I usually dont bash but this was just agreeing
At 12:44 you discuss the orientation of the strut mount in relation to the lower shock mount. I had this exact problem and with the strut mount in place and the three 15mm top bolts loosely threaded, I took a large crescent wrench and rotated the lower shock mount until it was oriented correctly. While not ideal, did I damage my shock in any way?
Thanks AT I used a big zip tie to strap the LCA up to prevent the axle slipping out of the splines. Also, pulling the plate and sway bar made it a breeze.
I'm going to do the stabilizer bar...but I'm going to put spacers on mine between the frame and frame mount....am I going to have to unloosen the spindal link to drop the frame mounts? I know the skid plate has to come off..but am I going to have any problems If i just drop it off the frame and slide the plates under them an tighten them back down to the frame. Or is there going to be to much load on the spindals?? Thank you sir!!!
Just focus on the sway and the links no need to touch anything else. Pull all off, I would recommend starting with the bar mounts first(get all the bolts stared before tightening) then hook up the links. If still don’t like how your truck rolls around look into a rear sway bar.
Where did you get the 1/2 inch spacer for the coil? Did it work out alright for you. Let me know so I can get a pair for my 05 Tacoma when I put bigger tires..(BF Goodrich Lt285/75 R-16 Thanks
They came with the truck when I bought the truck. google- tacoma 1/2 inch top plate spacer The truck drives awesome! I have 265s on mine with lots of room to spare!
I wouldn't. You are removing the most valuable 1/2" of spring travel. lift it somewhere else if you must lift it. Or put the spacer outside the coil-over assembly so it's not adding unwanted preload to the assembly.
What tool did you use to move the adjusting snap ring? I kinda noticed from some pics they do not look like regular snap rings. I just got some of these - did not take em out of the box yet so thought I would get a heads up - thanks.
Mo E , do a Google search for “ retaining ring pliers” look for ones with a flat nose. There are other ways- you might try grabbing one end of the snap ring and lift it out of the grove then use a screw driver to shift the ring to the side. Good luck :)
Mine seams plenty stuff up front with the stock coils. Even with a warn winch and hidden mount I install a while back. I don’t see any reason to go stiffer. I do have that extra top plate that might tighten things up a little bit more compared to straight Bilsteins. Hope that helps
Those are a Toyo MT stock size I think 265/65r16 I now have 285 on 17s with Falken Wild Peaks with rough country, upper control arms. It drives better than it ever has after putting those on.
Hi, I been told that if you go with the maximum height it runs way to stiffer than stock. Did you noticed better o worst ride quality? I just received my front and planing to install this weekend, I appreciate your advise to see if I go with 1.75 or 2.5 inches. I have a 2nd gen Tacoma 4x4 2010.
Yes it’s stiffer than stock- but I really like the ride. It handles great I have only ran Bilstein’s at that the max and a 1/4” spacer. My goal has always been to run larger tire like a 33/12.5. I’m sure it will be a little softer and handle great w/o the spacer and at a lower setting. I still need to check my alignment- so I’m not sure how well that will adjust
J.E. Guerrero i used to run the 5100’s at the 2.5” mark and the biggest negative was they were a lil under dampened on the rebound so basically if you went over a speedbump, the shocks would kinda shoot out a lil faster than stock so it was almost a lil pogo stick feeling. It def wasng terrible though...
You made this WAY harder than it needs to be, with that sway bar. Get the whole front end off the ground, and disconnect the other side. You can move it wherever you want then.
@@42itously You replaced a ton of components during that 320K miles too. Which is exactly like any other vehicle built since the year 2000 or so. They are average in durability. I work on these trucks all the time and I honestly don't see the allure. Rides like crap, jerky steering, jerky brakes. They drive like a horse and buggy.
@@edjackson4389 If mine rode like crap, had jerky steering, jerky brakes, rode like a horse and buggy... I wouldn't have bought it in the first place. Had it started exhibiting those behaviors after purchase, I wouldn't have driven now over 337k miles with it. Other than normal wear and tear such as brake pads, tires and shocks(Billy 5100s all 4 corners now), I haven't replaced a ton of parts. I mostly keep the fluids fresh and filled. I might have the Golden Taco as my Son had and sold a 2009 which was not so alluring. Like most things I suppose, one's mileage may vary. Happy Trails in whatever you may drive.
Just installed 5100s in my 15 taco and im very happy with them for the cost
So many critics out there, but none of them making any videos.
best thing I liked about yours, was that you made a mistake and you weren't afraid to show it.
About the nuts being installed on the wrong components
A final look at the truck lifted would of been nice lol
I just installed 5100’s with old man emu 2884x springs using the method to decompress/compress the coils by unbolting the lower ball joint mounts. Way safer IMO and really simple to push that shock shaft up all the way through the top hat.
I replaced my 5100s by swinging the lower control arm down & loosen the center top nut on the strut with a jack under the lower control arm. Once you release the pressure on the jack, coil spring will slowly begin to extend this makes it easier to remove the strut and spring without using spring compressors (repeat the process to install the new one) and the cap stays in place. I was told by 4Wheel that this setup was made to level a vehicle not to lift it even tho I did it. They said we shouldn't use the top groove on the 5100, use the 3rd groove instead to obtain a descent "lift" on the front and stay level with the rear 5100s for a better ride. If we want a better lift; to replace springs with Eibach and use the 2nd groove on the strut and install an add-a-leaf on the rear or block spacers (I hate blocks). Nice Video!! GO TACO!
Thanks for the insight. I have though about releasing the springs that way- I’ll give it a try next time!
My advice don't use bilstein shocks they are garbage, I had 5100s and 4600s they suck rough, don't do it
@@JoseMartinez-jw2dy Which shocks do you use?
What would you use instead ? I hardly ever go off-road and stay on paved roads and would want a nice soft ride. Thank you in advance@@JoseMartinez-jw2dy
To remove the strut properly..
Remove the two lower bolts that support the lower ball joint and swing the lower swing arm out of the way. Instead of removing the spindle.
William Mcspadden, I will try that next time- thanks
Wow this made my head hurt, I would have done this completely differently.
Yeah.....Like drop the lower control arm to get the shock out......Replace the top shock mount instead of using the old POS one. I usually dont bash but this was just agreeing
This is a good example of why you buy a good quality shock that will last a long time. Because it is such a pain in the a$$ to change them!!!
You did it the hard way, wow.
Are the 5100 better than the B6 4600 I have a 2005 TRD Pre-runner v6 access cab ? I’m replacing
Is that little thin ring all that supports the bottom of the spring seat on these shocks?
Did you forget to install the rubber coil isolater between the top of the coil spring and the top hat?
Would you say that these are the best brand of shock?
for that cut bushing, couldn't you just compress the coil more?
Right.
At 12:44 you discuss the orientation of the strut mount in relation to the lower shock mount. I had this exact problem and with the strut mount in place and the three 15mm top bolts loosely threaded, I took a large crescent wrench and rotated the lower shock mount until it was oriented correctly. While not ideal, did I damage my shock in any way?
I have an 08 prerunner and went on the 3rd notch. Is that pretty much leveling the truck? Thanks. Everything is stock except the 5100 billstein
The big spacer you left out was a two or three inch level kit?and how is the ride?
Thanks for letting us know how they ride
Use anti seize on the threads of your spring compressor as they heat up it'll keep it from a sticking
I’m thinking about buying the bilstein 5100. My old shocks are toytec, l wanted to know if l can use the toytec springs with the bilstein 5100?
is it a good idea to grease any of these bolts and joints?
Thanks for the video!
Thanks AT I used a big zip tie to strap the LCA up to prevent the axle slipping out of the splines. Also, pulling the plate and sway bar made it a breeze.
Thanks for the tip- good job!
I was thinking about ordering the set.....
Might need your help!
Would these level the front of my Silverado? I have a 7 inch lift but the front still sits a little lower than the rear.
Pb blast, a vice-grip,and open end wrench worked,, for that coil nut. 😎
Awesome!
I'm going to do the stabilizer bar...but I'm going to put spacers on mine between the frame and frame mount....am I going to have to unloosen the spindal link to drop the frame mounts? I know the skid plate has to come off..but am I going to have any problems If i just drop it off the frame and slide the plates under them an tighten them back down to the frame. Or is there going to be to much load on the spindals?? Thank you sir!!!
Just focus on the sway and the links no need to touch anything else. Pull all off, I would recommend starting with the bar mounts first(get all the bolts stared before tightening) then hook up the links.
If still don’t like how your truck rolls around look into a rear sway bar.
On your old set up was it meant for a 3in lift?
Where did you get the 1/2 inch spacer for the coil? Did it work out alright for you. Let me know so I can get a pair for my 05 Tacoma when I put bigger tires..(BF Goodrich Lt285/75 R-16 Thanks
They came with the truck when I bought the truck.
google- tacoma 1/2 inch top plate spacer
The truck drives awesome!
I have 265s on mine with lots of room to spare!
I wouldn't. You are removing the most valuable 1/2" of spring travel. lift it somewhere else if you must lift it. Or put the spacer outside the coil-over assembly so it's not adding unwanted preload to the assembly.
You use the top notch to get more higher whit your factory coil spring...
Would this be too advanced for a novice do it yourselfer? Im new to working on my truck.
It isn't too bad. I'd recommend having someone that's experienced readily available in case you do run into problems but, again, it's not too bad.
Yes it can be done, watch some more videos and find a buddy!
I tow a travel trailer with my 2008 Toyota sequoia what shocks should I get for the rear and what struts for the front ? Thanks
These shocks would great for you as well! You would just set them at the stock height.
Thanks for the detailed video! Great!
Your welcome!
Your lift is more than 3inch? With that 11/4 spacer?
What tool did you use to move the adjusting snap ring? I kinda noticed from some pics they do not look like regular snap rings. I just got some of these - did not take em out of the box yet so thought I would get a heads up - thanks.
Mo E , do a Google search for “ retaining ring pliers” look for ones with a flat nose.
There are other ways- you might try grabbing one end of the snap ring and lift it out of the grove then use a screw driver to shift the ring to the side.
Good luck :)
I used my bare hands those rings are weak
Rancho bushings???
Didn't you get new bushings with the Bilstein shocks?
I just got the same setup as you. I had rancho quicklifts, and just received the 5100's- how does it ride?
Awesome way better!
How have you been liking the bilstein compared to the rancho? how much lift are you getting with the bilstein?
Would you recommend getting new coils or just the the stock coils I cant decide which is a better option?
Mine seams plenty stuff up front with the stock coils. Even with a warn winch and hidden mount I install a while back. I don’t see any reason to go stiffer. I do have that extra top plate that might tighten things up a little bit more compared to straight Bilsteins.
Hope that helps
@@AutoTechMadsen thanks for the reply I'll probably just go with the stock coils then.
Once you get the tool on the spring. You need to see it like a loaded gun. Never point it at anything you arent willing to lose.
Is a torque wrench needed or recommend?
Always set proper torque
How much total height did you get using the highest 2.5" plus the 1/2" top spacer?
Not sure because I started with it lifted Maybe 3 inches but probably less
Could I add these shocks to a 6 inch suspension lift to add more lift?
Yes I believe so- along as the lift kit has spacers for the top of the strut assembly’s.
What kind of tire do you have?
Those are a Toyo MT stock size I think 265/65r16
I now have 285 on 17s with Falken Wild Peaks with rough country, upper control arms. It drives better than it ever has after putting those on.
What is that piece you discarded at 11:27.
Hi, I been told that if you go with the maximum height it runs way to stiffer than stock. Did you noticed better o worst ride quality?
I just received my front and planing to install this weekend, I appreciate your advise to see if I go with 1.75 or 2.5 inches. I have a 2nd gen Tacoma 4x4 2010.
Yes it’s stiffer than stock- but I really like the ride. It handles great I have only ran Bilstein’s at that the max and a 1/4” spacer. My goal has always been to run larger tire like a 33/12.5.
I’m sure it will be a little softer and handle great w/o the spacer and at a lower setting.
I still need to check my alignment- so I’m not sure how well that will adjust
J.E. Guerrero i used to run the 5100’s at the 2.5” mark and the biggest negative was they were a lil under dampened on the rebound so basically if you went over a speedbump, the shocks would kinda shoot out a lil faster than stock so it was almost a lil pogo stick feeling. It def wasng terrible though...
Did the spacer cause any issues?
Still running it
I’m putting these shocks on my truck. What are those tires?
Toyo MT 265/75r16
They are great!
Awesome. Good lookin tires. I decided to go with Falken Wildpeak AT for the shoes. Thanks though.
i have a 2015 tacoma and just ordered some 5100s, would i be able to use my 3" lift block and keep the shock on the lowest setting
I think people do that but I don’t think it is recommend by Bilstein
thank you
My swaybar end link has an allen key on the end so the swaybar nut wont spin byt using an allen key to hold..
I think mine do too but they might stripped out!
Where's the frame rust?
No salty roads here!
99,999 VIEWS !! Yay
Haha that’s awesome!
Gawd dayum all that for a damn shock!
Lmao!!
Those the OEM coils?
Yes they are
Closeups please.
😂😂😂😂😂😂 dude you took way to much apart LOL
Is there a video that shows the correct way that you might know about?
You made this WAY harder than it needs to be, with that sway bar. Get the whole front end off the ground, and disconnect the other side. You can move it wherever you want then.
I will try that next time for sure
Painful to watch
Can i use the stock mounting plate/tophat on the bilsteins?
Yes
Stiff af
Why waste the money on a tacoma
They are the best!
Jajajaja Toyota tacoma is the best on this world. Is Forever North America Car's =@ trash
Bought my 2006 new in Dec 2005. Have 320k+ miles on it, no worries. Plan to go 1 million miles. Thatr's why, money not wasted.
@@42itously You replaced a ton of components during that 320K miles too. Which is exactly like any other vehicle built since the year 2000 or so. They are average in durability. I work on these trucks all the time and I honestly don't see the allure. Rides like crap, jerky steering, jerky brakes. They drive like a horse and buggy.
@@edjackson4389 If mine rode like crap, had jerky steering, jerky brakes, rode like a horse and buggy... I wouldn't have bought it in the first place. Had it started exhibiting those behaviors after purchase, I wouldn't have driven now over 337k miles with it. Other than normal wear and tear such as brake pads, tires and shocks(Billy 5100s all 4 corners now), I haven't replaced a ton of parts. I mostly keep the fluids fresh and filled. I might have the Golden Taco as my Son had and sold a 2009 which was not so alluring. Like most things I suppose, one's mileage may vary. Happy Trails in whatever you may drive.
Do you need new control arms to fix the ball joint angle with the new struts on?
No still running the stock ones- avoiding the the alignment machine :) I will check it soon