Your welcome I forgot a step in the beginning to count the threads sticking out of the nut befor I removed it and I did have a problem after made tobrecap videos on what happened and how I fixed it and the retighten torque spec is 250 foot pounds I did look it up
Before you hammer in that new seal, slide it over the flange to make sure it's tight. Also always inspect the flange for a groove worn into it from the old seal, if so replace the flange.
Damn, I got a beautiful 02' Blazer ZR2 LS in 2023 with over 300k & never had a leak, I've never changed the rear oil but, I do have a driver's side rear Bearing to replace. Cost $160 for a shop to do it but I'm doing it myself, Easy job. Thanks for the vid, I do have a little play in my pinion gear & yoke but not much, I may tighten it just a tad. I've never had any clunking sounds when putting it in gear
Glad to helpful I did look up the torque spec 250 foot pounds I recommend you check out the other videos on the seal I forgot I step in the main videos 2 update videos after that one
If it uses a crush sleeve just retighten to 125-150 ft pounds...you are not going to further crush a sleeve at that low of a torque. The torque setting of the nut has nothing to do with backlash...as long as the crush sleeve has no clearance you will have exactly the same backlash as before you began.
? Maybe I can explain what ever you didnt understand I try to put as much information in my videos as I can I am not prefect and do miss things but I try to recap on the with another video afterwards
@@Chadirrific They are balanced with a small weight on one side of the driveshaft, if it's put back on the opposite way it will vibrate usually around 50 to 60 mph or so.
@@MrRoy-rb1je any thing I can do I was trying to not have just a lot of videos on fixing my truck I have other cars to work on but apparently she was feeling the need to be fixed I have a bunch of jobs lined up for this summer I live in north west Pennsylvania so doing this in my driveway I have to yield to winter waiting for it to end
@@MrRoy-rb1je I did run into a noise problem after doing that so there are 2 more small videos covering what happened and how I got it fixed you might want to have a look at them so you don't have the any problems thanks again for watching
I'm curious what you were hammering away at for a couple minutes on the flange just before you installed it. Could it have been the dust cover and why?
I have a 97 Tahoe z71 with the g80 locker and 30 spline 3.42 10 bolt. There is a whine/roar only under load or constant speed. I'm praying its rear wheel bearings
@@duanescarpad2831 ive never rebuilt a rear end before. Honestly. Is it hard? I've dropped fuel tanks, done fuel pumps, radiators, suspension pieces, hubs, control arms. But this..
@@duanescarpad2831 by the way, its no deafening or anything. Just 'new'. Sounds almost like a heavy trucks driveline kind of. Kicks in around 20 and always stops when I let off the accelerator
@Just Passing Through I have never rebuilt a rear end befor either but the more you tell me the more it sounds like that is what it might be aside from hearing it myself
I know you can save yourself $150 in labor by doing this yourself. But understand that if you go too loose on that nut, or too tight, you'll need to replace the ring and pinion gears and bearings costing about $1700-$2000. Do you want to chance this to save money? Decide carefully.
@@davidfirth9342 $1700-$2000 for ANY year differential is normal. Where do you get your repairs done lmao labor is $80hr plus parts. Sounds like you never go to a reputable repair business.
Oh and I did look up how many foot pounds it is 250 foot pounds to tighten the nut back down. I have 2 more video's. I had some noise cuase I was rushing a little and forgot am important step. And that is to count the threads coming out befor you remove the nut. I have a couple of video's on doing the axle seals and bearing to. I have a crazy truck its a 1500 HD with a 2500 rear end you are welcome to watch them.
@@duanescarpad2831 I always mark the nut at the top before I loosen them and start the count. But that works differently when your putting it back on. Lol
Good video. I screwed up and didnt mark anything while taking the yolk off. Is there a way to tighten that nut by a recommend torque setting. It was fairly easy to remove.
Watch the other 2 video's I made. I run into a problem with tightening mine and I recapped the issue. I marked mine but forgot to count my threads befor removing the big nut but the torque spec. Is 250 foot pounds
I hope it helps I have had some hater's come at me for the way I did that job but if you mark it count the threads then it goes together right but I looked up the torque spec just to make sure
@@duanescarpad2831 Thanks for the info yeah I didn't mark or count the threads I totally spaced it I'm gonna go to a junkyard here they have a fee Silverado sitting out in the yard I'm gonna look at the thread count on those
Depends on were my yoke has a lot of play hut it has 278000 miles on it but as long as the gears in side are still tight should be ok now I ran into a noise problem because I forgot to count the threads on the big nut befor I took it off and didn't get it tight enough I uave 2 more videos addressing that and how I fixed it mine is 3 threads I only put it on to 2 threads it qas all super loose and making noise but it's good now its been a year and ahalf since I did that job all is good still
Help please just I bought a 08 f150 rear wheels not spinning do you think is the transfer case or differential when I put the car up to the air rear wheels are like locked
@@rodger6940 yeah my friend sounds a lot like the rear end will any wheel turn by hand. What I would do is take off the driveshaft and see if things move if they don't move they its the rear end if the wheel will turn with the shaft out then its transmission or transfer case
Have you done anything yet did you do the job already there are 2 more videos I have after that one addressing noise after I did the job covering what happened to me and how I fixed it
What up bro it's me again as I am typing this I have gone through 4 different yolk &pinion seals and every single yolk would fit the ujojnt and drive shaft but none of the seals would go flush I have the tool for installing them and all 4 had a small gap in between the rear differential and the seal and I've had to bang the hell out of it just to get it to where it's at. I have spoke with alreast 10 different people so far and quite a few mentioned it should go in all the way flush with ease that you shouldn't have to hammer it in? I'm back at square 1 again.
Wow I am not sure what could be stopping it from going in all the way is there possibly some small bit of debree inside the stops it form going in even a small piece of something can cuase a problem this is definitely an odd one my friend that's for sure
That's the only thing that I cam think of that will stop the seal from going in all the way unless it's to tall of a seal sometimes they can be tricky is slides over the yolk ok right should be a snug fit
@@duanescarpad2831 yea I've had 2 hammer the hell out of them and all have a small gap In between t It & the differential. I may have 2 buy the yolk & seal separately because ladie at this differential shop in Beaumont TX said my seal part number is 2043 and I have been buying the sets from O'Reilly & autozone with a different seal.
I see I would think you would but maybe I didn't have to but I went to the dealer for my seal ac Delco parts when I do electronics or seals I try to go factory shit
Yea its left loose but it is put on at 250 foot pounds its takes a lot of force to get it off I use an impact to take them off if your trying by hand and it turns to much you might need a bar to hold it still and and bigger bar to work the nut for more leverage and don't forget to count the threads coming out of the nut befor you take it of so when you put it back together you can torc it down right its usually 3 threads
@@duanescarpad2831 ok thanks. I put a braker bar and a cheater bar and layed it on the frame and use another truck to push my truck backward to brake the nut but it still wont break I even used heat
Make sure you count the number of threads coming out of the nut befor you take it of that way it will ne put back right where it was it should be like 3 threads and then make you mark to line it up with
No some might come out when you remove the seal after you count the threads on the nut make your make and take it apart after putting it back together and I did up the foot pounds to tighten the nut is 250 foot pounds after it together just take the fill plug out and add some fluid til it comes out
At 25:25 you're wrong. There is no spec for tightening that pinion nut. It's tightened slowly until you crush the crush sleeve which preloads the pinion bearings as measured with an inch pound torque wrench as you turn the pinion. The pinion can't be in mesh with the ring gear so you'd have to pull the cover off and pull out the ring gear carrier assembly (differential) so you only have the pinion turning by itself against the preload of the bearings. That's the procedure not a tightening spec. Always consult the service manual. However if you mark the position of the nut with paint like you did, you might be able to get that nut installed to where it was before bit it's risky. That's what you're doing in this video did you forget?? There's no tightening torque spec there's paint marks you're matching up. If you get it too tight or too loose you'll ruin everything inside tho so be careful. (Everything inside is a $1800 job). Personally for the $150 you'd spend having a garage replace the seal I think it would be money well spent. Of you mess up doing it yourself that rear end will fail in a few hundred miles. I really wouldn't encourage do it yourselfers to attempt this.
Yes thanks there are different ways to do this job and I did run in to that problem. I didn't have it tight enough and my manual does have a weird tool that hook to the yoke and measures things I have never seen this tool but I address my problem and how I fixed it in 2 update video cuase it was important and I explain how I fixed it we have been doing that job at my shop for year the same way it was my fault I didn't pay attention to the steps in the update video first time in 15 years I went to fast and miss a step please feel free to check the other 2 video updates if you like
@@duanescarpad2831 I respectfully DISagree. There are NOT several ways to do this job. There is ONE way to set pinion bearing preload. One way. Unfortunately you might think that you're just removing a nut on the pinion shaft to only replace a seal. You couldn't be more wrong. That seal when it goes bad requires that nut to be removed and there's only ONE way to put that nut back on there CORRECTLY, and it involves a ton of labor pulling out your differential carrier so that your pinion is free to rotate with only the drag or "preload" on the pinion bearings which is directly and absolutely controlled by that big nut. I don't care how many jobs you've done, they aren't done properly if you haven't completed dissassenmbled the rear end. If you can tell me how many inch pounds you measured while rotating the pinion with the new seal installed then you've done it correctly. ANYthing else is not correct. It's just not. Sorry.
@@duanescarpad2831 but to sum up your response of "there are several ways to do this job and yes I've run into that problem".. I have 3 words... Well no kidding! Because there aren't several ways to do that job, there is only ONE correct way just like I've been telling you lol. Sure there might be several ways to bolt something together but that doesn't mean that just because you got it together that it's done right! I'm sorry but you're wrong. Plain and simple, you're wrong. And when the vehicle came BACK with more problems I think it validates my point. You're not a good mechanic just because you take things apart and bolt them back together. It takes knowledge. You know where I get my knowledge from? The factory Service Manual. Nothing crazy just common sense. I'm not trying to insult or offend you but I gotta say that you are wrong. There's only ONE way to do that job replacing a pinion seal correctly.
Sheesh..Yes you crush the crush sleeve to the proper preload when ASSEMBLING a rear end..hes simply replacing the pinion seal NOT assembling the damned thing..you DO NOT crush the crush sleeve anymore when installing a new pinion seal..before removing the pinion nut count the threads then put a white line on the pinion shaft end and nut..remove nut, washer, yoke, R2 seal..on reassembly match the lines and very importantly thread count and it will come out right..you wont kill the rear end if you go 1/32 past the mark..a lot of people like to and do go a small amount past the mark and have no problems..really you make this sound like rocket science and only a very select few can swap out a rear pinion seal..
There was nothing in there to clean out just the leaking gear oil there are 2 recap videos to go along with this 1 I didn't count the threads on the nut in the beginning befor I took it of and I thought I tightened it enough but I didn't so I had a noise problem and I cover that and what I did to fix the issue in the 2nd and 3rd videos I recommend watching them
My ‘96 Camaro ran dry from a leaking pinion gear seal. Thank you very much for the information.
No problem I hope it was useful
very informative video. Thank you for sharing. 👍
Your welcome I forgot a step in the beginning to count the threads sticking out of the nut befor I removed it and I did have a problem after made tobrecap videos on what happened and how I fixed it and the retighten torque spec is 250 foot pounds I did look it up
Before you hammer in that new seal, slide it over the flange to make sure it's tight. Also always inspect the flange for a groove worn into it from the old seal, if so replace the flange.
Damn, I got a beautiful 02' Blazer ZR2 LS in 2023 with over 300k & never had a leak, I've never changed the rear oil but, I do have a driver's side rear Bearing to replace.
Cost $160 for a shop to do it but I'm doing it myself, Easy job.
Thanks for the vid, I do have a little play in my pinion gear & yoke but not much, I may tighten it just a tad. I've never had any clunking sounds when putting it in gear
Thanks man I appreciate it bro I have videos out on doing the bearings as well takes you through the steps its another 2 to 3 parts videos
Thank you sir, very helpful.
Glad to helpful I did look up the torque spec 250 foot pounds I recommend you check out the other videos on the seal I forgot I step in the main videos 2 update videos after that one
If it uses a crush sleeve just retighten to 125-150 ft pounds...you are not going to further crush a sleeve at that low of a torque. The torque setting of the nut has nothing to do with backlash...as long as the crush sleeve has no clearance you will have exactly the same backlash as before you began.
Yep you’re right differential oil is the best smell you could ever smell
Wd40 smells pretty damn good too lol
I think you better quick sniffin that stuff. Especially if your starting to like it.
Ha Ha Ha
WTF?!? Diff fluid smells TERRIBLE
Vary helpful no difference over a lifted 4x
Good glad to hear that I did run into a noise problem after that i posted 2 more on dealing with it and fixing my own mistake that I did
Thanks for the this video
Thanks for the misunderstanding information
? Maybe I can explain what ever you didnt understand I try to put as much information in my videos as I can I am not prefect and do miss things but I try to recap on the with another video afterwards
This video help me out
Always mark the driveshaft before removing it, it is usually balanced and will wobble at hi speeds if it’s not put back the way you had taken it off.
absolutely right! don't know if he attended the auto-school?
If its balanced to spin in a circle why would it matter how its put back in if the circular motion never changes anyway
@@Chadirrific
They are balanced with a small weight on one side of the driveshaft, if it's put back on the opposite way it will vibrate usually around 50 to 60 mph or so.
Outstanding
Thanks man most of my video's are dyi video's to show guys you can do some things your self and not pay high garage costs 👍
@@duanescarpad2831 Absolutely! Very much appreciated!!! Thank you, Sir!
@@MrRoy-rb1je any thing I can do I was trying to not have just a lot of videos on fixing my truck I have other cars to work on but apparently she was feeling the need to be fixed I have a bunch of jobs lined up for this summer I live in north west Pennsylvania so doing this in my driveway I have to yield to winter waiting for it to end
@@MrRoy-rb1je I did run into a noise problem after doing that so there are 2 more small videos covering what happened and how I got it fixed you might want to have a look at them so you don't have the any problems thanks again for watching
@@duanescarpad2831 i have a k1500. and i need to replace this seal. Will be checking for next video
I'm curious what you were hammering away at for a couple minutes on the flange just before you installed it. Could it have been the dust cover and why?
Well when I tapped it off the flange got dented. So I was smoothing it out a little that's all lol
I have a 97 Tahoe z71 with the g80 locker and 30 spline 3.42 10 bolt.
There is a whine/roar only under load or constant speed.
I'm praying its rear wheel bearings
Sound like it maybe to late if it's making that much noise might need to rebuild it befor it blows out
But you can replace the shaft bearing first to see they are cheap and easy to do I have a video for that out as well
@@duanescarpad2831 ive never rebuilt a rear end before.
Honestly. Is it hard?
I've dropped fuel tanks, done fuel pumps, radiators, suspension pieces, hubs, control arms.
But this..
@@duanescarpad2831 by the way, its no deafening or anything. Just 'new'.
Sounds almost like a heavy trucks driveline kind of.
Kicks in around 20 and always stops when I let off the accelerator
@Just Passing Through I have never rebuilt a rear end befor either but the more you tell me the more it sounds like that is what it might be aside from hearing it myself
I know you can save yourself $150 in labor by doing this yourself. But understand that if you go too loose on that nut, or too tight, you'll need to replace the ring and pinion gears and bearings costing about $1700-$2000. Do you want to chance this to save money? Decide carefully.
There is plenty of literature on how to tighten and adjust the slack properly
1700 to 2000 for a 98 gmc diff your fucken high
@@davidfirth9342 $1700-$2000 for ANY year differential is normal. Where do you get your repairs done lmao labor is $80hr plus parts. Sounds like you never go to a reputable repair business.
@@roberts5118 well I go out back to My feild of dreams and cut out a new to me rear end...150 a hr where I am so fuck them
Shut up
If I'm replacing one of these, I'm also replacing the ujoint and bearings. And using a torque wrench for sure..
That won't hurt it any yeah may be better for you
Oh and I did look up how many foot pounds it is 250 foot pounds to tighten the nut back down. I have 2 more video's. I had some noise cuase I was rushing a little and forgot am important step. And that is to count the threads coming out befor you remove the nut. I have a couple of video's on doing the axle seals and bearing to. I have a crazy truck its a 1500 HD with a 2500 rear end you are welcome to watch them.
@@duanescarpad2831 I always mark the nut at the top before I loosen them and start the count. But that works differently when your putting it back on. Lol
Yeah they always go back together alittle different lol
Good video. I screwed up and didnt mark anything while taking the yolk off. Is there a way to tighten that nut by a recommend torque setting. It was fairly easy to remove.
Watch the other 2 video's I made. I run into a problem with tightening mine and I recapped the issue. I marked mine but forgot to count my threads befor removing the big nut but the torque spec. Is 250 foot pounds
I hope it helps I have had some hater's come at me for the way I did that job but if you mark it count the threads then it goes together right but I looked up the torque spec just to make sure
@@duanescarpad2831 Thanks for the info yeah I didn't mark or count the threads I totally spaced it I'm gonna go to a junkyard here they have a fee Silverado sitting out in the yard I'm gonna look at the thread count on those
Good idea mine was 3 threads I think
@@duanescarpad2831 That's cool I checked out 3 Silverado's today and they are all about 3 threads
Is that much play back and forth on the yoke normal?
Depends on were my yoke has a lot of play hut it has 278000 miles on it but as long as the gears in side are still tight should be ok now I ran into a noise problem because I forgot to count the threads on the big nut befor I took it off and didn't get it tight enough I uave 2 more videos addressing that and how I fixed it mine is 3 threads I only put it on to 2 threads it qas all super loose and making noise but it's good now its been a year and ahalf since I did that job all is good still
I’m trying to figure out why I have a Stijl dust boot with the pinion seal it’s rubber and looks like it belongs on the spindle bearing… ughhh
Um not sure you no designers they do what they want weather it make sense or not lol
Help please just I bought a 08 f150 rear wheels not spinning do you think is the transfer case or differential when I put the car up to the air rear wheels are like locked
That does not sound good at all so does it drive or not move at all cuase that sounds like maybe the rear end is locked up
@@duanescarpad2831 yes it feels like the rear end is locked up I put the truck up on the air and they don't spin not even putting a lot of force
@@rodger6940 yeah my friend sounds a lot like the rear end will any wheel turn by hand. What I would do is take off the driveshaft and see if things move if they don't move they its the rear end if the wheel will turn with the shaft out then its transmission or transfer case
@@duanescarpad2831 thanks for your help bro I will do that
@@rodger6940 more then welcome man I try to help when I can
I’m a reasonably good FORD ASE TECHNICIAN, this is what I call “JOB SECURITY “!!! Jeeeewhizzz…! Lol
Yea things happen sometimes you forget but it turned out ok in the end
could this be causing me awful grinding noise When slowing down?
Yea if you hear bad grinding it may be to late already
Have you done anything yet did you do the job already there are 2 more videos I have after that one addressing noise after I did the job covering what happened to me and how I fixed it
What up bro it's me again as I am typing this I have gone through 4 different yolk &pinion seals and every single yolk would fit the ujojnt and drive shaft but none of the seals would go flush I have the tool for installing them and all 4 had a small gap in between the rear differential and the seal and I've had to bang the hell out of it just to get it to where it's at. I have spoke with alreast 10 different people so far and quite a few mentioned it should go in all the way flush with ease that you shouldn't have to hammer it in? I'm back at square 1 again.
Wow I am not sure what could be stopping it from going in all the way is there possibly some small bit of debree inside the stops it form going in even a small piece of something can cuase a problem this is definitely an odd one my friend that's for sure
@@duanescarpad2831 not sure all the debris has been removed from what I can see.
That's the only thing that I cam think of that will stop the seal from going in all the way unless it's to tall of a seal sometimes they can be tricky is slides over the yolk ok right should be a snug fit
@@duanescarpad2831 yea I've had 2 hammer the hell out of them and all have a small gap In between t
It & the differential. I may have 2 buy the yolk & seal separately because ladie at this differential shop in Beaumont TX said my seal part number is 2043 and I have been buying the sets from O'Reilly & autozone with a different seal.
I see I would think you would but maybe I didn't have to but I went to the dealer for my seal ac Delco parts when I do electronics or seals I try to go factory shit
Do you have to do the same for the front 4x4 differential
Yea I believe the front is the same not sure have not had to do it yet but it should be similar
@duanescarpad2831 thanks
No problem I hope I am right
I cant get the nut off lefty losses right tighty right. It like really stuck on. How to get it off
Yea its left loose but it is put on at 250 foot pounds its takes a lot of force to get it off I use an impact to take them off if your trying by hand and it turns to much you might need a bar to hold it still and and bigger bar to work the nut for more leverage and don't forget to count the threads coming out of the nut befor you take it of so when you put it back together you can torc it down right its usually 3 threads
@@duanescarpad2831 ok thanks. I put a braker bar and a cheater bar and layed it on the frame and use another truck to push my truck backward to brake the nut but it still wont break I even used heat
@@ashliepigg3358 yea they can be seized really good unfortunately
If u used tire tool or big screw driver it pop right out ,u could bust a ear off drive shit with big hamer
Please get a breaker bar.
Remember to use a crowbar and not a screw driver smh lol
What size is that bolt
Mine was a 32 mm socket
Make sure you count the number of threads coming out of the nut befor you take it of that way it will ne put back right where it was it should be like 3 threads and then make you mark to line it up with
Do I need to drain my diff before I do this ?
No some might come out when you remove the seal after you count the threads on the nut make your make and take it apart after putting it back together and I did up the foot pounds to tighten the nut is 250 foot pounds after it together just take the fill plug out and add some fluid til it comes out
At 25:25 you're wrong. There is no spec for tightening that pinion nut. It's tightened slowly until you crush the crush sleeve which preloads the pinion bearings as measured with an inch pound torque wrench as you turn the pinion. The pinion can't be in mesh with the ring gear so you'd have to pull the cover off and pull out the ring gear carrier assembly (differential) so you only have the pinion turning by itself against the preload of the bearings. That's the procedure not a tightening spec. Always consult the service manual. However if you mark the position of the nut with paint like you did, you might be able to get that nut installed to where it was before bit it's risky. That's what you're doing in this video did you forget?? There's no tightening torque spec there's paint marks you're matching up. If you get it too tight or too loose you'll ruin everything inside tho so be careful. (Everything inside is a $1800 job). Personally for the $150 you'd spend having a garage replace the seal I think it would be money well spent. Of you mess up doing it yourself that rear end will fail in a few hundred miles. I really wouldn't encourage do it yourselfers to attempt this.
Yes thanks there are different ways to do this job and I did run in to that problem. I didn't have it tight enough and my manual does have a weird tool that hook to the yoke and measures things I have never seen this tool but I address my problem and how I fixed it in 2 update video cuase it was important and I explain how I fixed it we have been doing that job at my shop for year the same way it was my fault I didn't pay attention to the steps in the update video first time in 15 years I went to fast and miss a step please feel free to check the other 2 video updates if you like
@@duanescarpad2831 I respectfully DISagree. There are NOT several ways to do this job. There is ONE way to set pinion bearing preload. One way. Unfortunately you might think that you're just removing a nut on the pinion shaft to only replace a seal. You couldn't be more wrong. That seal when it goes bad requires that nut to be removed and there's only ONE way to put that nut back on there CORRECTLY, and it involves a ton of labor pulling out your differential carrier so that your pinion is free to rotate with only the drag or "preload" on the pinion bearings which is directly and absolutely controlled by that big nut. I don't care how many jobs you've done, they aren't done properly if you haven't completed dissassenmbled the rear end. If you can tell me how many inch pounds you measured while rotating the pinion with the new seal installed then you've done it correctly. ANYthing else is not correct. It's just not. Sorry.
@@duanescarpad2831 but to sum up your response of "there are several ways to do this job and yes I've run into that problem".. I have 3 words... Well no kidding! Because there aren't several ways to do that job, there is only ONE correct way just like I've been telling you lol. Sure there might be several ways to bolt something together but that doesn't mean that just because you got it together that it's done right! I'm sorry but you're wrong. Plain and simple, you're wrong. And when the vehicle came BACK with more problems I think it validates my point. You're not a good mechanic just because you take things apart and bolt them back together. It takes knowledge. You know where I get my knowledge from? The factory Service Manual. Nothing crazy just common sense. I'm not trying to insult or offend you but I gotta say that you are wrong. There's only ONE way to do that job replacing a pinion seal correctly.
Sheesh..Yes you crush the crush sleeve to the proper preload when ASSEMBLING a rear end..hes simply replacing the pinion seal NOT assembling the damned thing..you DO NOT crush the crush sleeve anymore when installing a new pinion seal..before removing the pinion nut count the threads then put a white line on the pinion shaft end and nut..remove nut, washer, yoke, R2 seal..on reassembly match the lines and very importantly thread count and it will come out right..you wont kill the rear end if you go 1/32 past the mark..a lot of people like to and do go a small amount past the mark and have no problems..really you make this sound like rocket science and only a very select few can swap out a rear pinion seal..
@@roberts5118 wow👎🏻
My guy you spent more time with the red paint smh
15 ug ug
no clean out no nothin
There was nothing in there to clean out just the leaking gear oil there are 2 recap videos to go along with this 1 I didn't count the threads on the nut in the beginning befor I took it of and I thought I tightened it enough but I didn't so I had a noise problem and I cover that and what I did to fix the issue in the 2nd and 3rd videos I recommend watching them
Everybody uses a seal pulle
r got pores on both ends
Pores??? what the hell are pores on the end? They're definitely not called pores. I think you're just making up words.