Generally, instead of grease around the outside of the seal you'll use RTV sealant to prevent the kind of seepage you had to begin with. On the instead rubber portion of the seal you can just use gear oil or vaseline. Regarding the pinion nut, the crush sleeve has already been crushed to spec, and it takes a lot of torque to make that happen, so if you just use some Loctite on the pinion threads you can just tighten the pinion nut to maybe 75 foot-pounds and not worry about aligning the marks as you have here, because 75 foot-pounds is not enough to crush the sleeve any further than it already is but it's enough torque to keep the pinion bearings under tension. Very good video though, thanks for posting it.
Went smooth on my 91 Silverado. Problem I ran into was filling the diff back up previous owner stripped the fill plug to nothing. Tried welding a bolt and wouldn’t budge. Filled from the breather hole and worked well no leaks.
Great vid, bro. My Silverado is doing this same leak, so I figured this is what I was gonna have to do. Thanks for posting. Love your safety flip flops !!!
This is the way most shops would do this procedure, even though guys who work in driveline shops may roll their eyes. They would say you should reset the crush washer tension to reproduce the preload between the two bearings underneath. With the diff already installed, that's not so easy. Even though the torque spec on the pinion nut is really high, the final position for the nut is the more critical factor. So, just be certain that the exact same number of threads are still present after you're done, it's not so critical the white line you drew lines up exactly. Some would turn it a hair tighter to account for natural wear of surfaces internally.
Great video, thank you for making it. Curious, would this process be exactly the same for a Chevy Astro? And, would it be useful to check the bearing and u-joints to make sure that there isn't a deeper issue that the leaking seal is just a symptom of?
Thanks buddy, yeah I kinda felt like a badass taking off the driveshaft even though it was only a few bolts... after that the rest was pretty easy - much nicer working on vehicles with a taller ride height haha
I know that having the tires on the vehicle (and on the ground) creates resistance against the axle turning when taking the large pinion nut off, but right now I have my truck on jack stands, with the drum brakes disassembled. So I don't have that resistance. I'd like to change my leaky pinion seal while I have the truck on jack stands. What should I do to keep the axle from turning while I try to loosen that pinion nut?
I checked my front differential fluid level and it was really low . I checked it because I noticed it really oily all around there. Bummer, I just bought the truck.. it’s a 05 chevy colorado z71 5 cyl 4x4 . Would I do it the same way. This was a great video.
Also, when my opinion seal did that it was a rubberized washer that sat between the nut and the yolk that was either missing or all messed up and it was causing it to leak down the threads of the output shaft and that's what was causing me. It was not the main oil seal that you show tapping in. Was there another washer or anything like that on your assembly? I have an 87 so it could be different
I think that could work, but when I looked into it, people said to measure the active/in-motion torque, not the breakaway torque (like what a standard wrench would set at) and so that’s why I just installed to the same thread count. Ideally if you can get a wrench with a torque gauge installed on it, that will ensure you get it dialed in just right!
Shoot, I’m sorry man, I know I had it written down at the time but that note is long gone… to be honest, I don’t remember it being down too low, I want to say maybe ~5 threads were showing?
Manual for 2007-2009 but may be different for yours. Suspect 2007-2013 1500.: Pinion and Differential Case Bearing Preload, New Bearings 3.4-6.2 N.m 30-55 lb in Pinion and Differential Case Bearing Preload, Used Bearings 2.8-5.1 N.m 25-45 lb in
Because that’s NOT the right way. There is no torque spec. The correct way is to remove the whole carrier, & measure pinion preload. Nobody wants to do that for a simple pinion seal replacement, so this method maintains the original preload.
@@jscm3738 there is definitely a torque spec for the bolts holding the u-joint straps in place and that torque is 15 ft/lb. And that is a very important one considering the load it can receive if not torqued properly.
I wish all automotive repair assistance videos we're like
this one. Nicely done sir
Generally, instead of grease around the outside of the seal you'll use RTV sealant to prevent the kind of seepage you had to begin with. On the instead rubber portion of the seal you can just use gear oil or vaseline. Regarding the pinion nut, the crush sleeve has already been crushed to spec, and it takes a lot of torque to make that happen, so if you just use some Loctite on the pinion threads you can just tighten the pinion nut to maybe 75 foot-pounds and not worry about aligning the marks as you have here, because 75 foot-pounds is not enough to crush the sleeve any further than it already is but it's enough torque to keep the pinion bearings under tension. Very good video though, thanks for posting it.
Went smooth on my 91 Silverado. Problem I ran into was filling the diff back up previous owner stripped the fill plug to nothing. Tried welding a bolt and wouldn’t budge. Filled from the breather hole and worked well no leaks.
Pro tip: always remove the fill plug BEFORE draining differentials and transmissions.
@@ZBrink11 in my case it really didn’t matter. There was no oil left in it when I popped the plate off.
Count threads not splines. Excellent instructional video😊
Great vid, bro. My Silverado is doing this same leak, so I figured this is what I was gonna have to do. Thanks for posting. Love your safety flip flops !!!
Lol at the flip flops… wouldn’t do it any other way 😎
This is the way most shops would do this procedure, even though guys who work in driveline shops may roll their eyes. They would say you should reset the crush washer tension to reproduce the preload between the two bearings underneath. With the diff already installed, that's not so easy. Even though the torque spec on the pinion nut is really high, the final position for the nut is the more critical factor. So, just be certain that the exact same number of threads are still present after you're done, it's not so critical the white line you drew lines up exactly. Some would turn it a hair tighter to account for natural wear of surfaces internally.
Nice video short and sweet. Thanks for sharing
Glad to help Marty!
Using that puller to remove that yoke was a genius move 👍🏾
Thanks! 🤓
Great video, thank you for making it. Curious, would this process be exactly the same for a Chevy Astro? And, would it be useful to check the bearing and u-joints to make sure that there isn't a deeper issue that the leaking seal is just a symptom of?
A pinion is a pinion is a pinion
Great Great video! I never did that seal before. You made it look easy 👍
Thanks buddy, yeah I kinda felt like a badass taking off the driveshaft even though it was only a few bolts... after that the rest was pretty easy - much nicer working on vehicles with a taller ride height haha
@@1Brain4Wheels Nice
I’m doing this right now on my 92 Silverado. Just struggling to take off the 32mm nut
Use deep 32 mm socket
I know that having the tires on the vehicle (and on the ground) creates resistance against the axle turning when taking the large pinion nut off, but right now I have my truck on jack stands, with the drum brakes disassembled. So I don't have that resistance. I'd like to change my leaky pinion seal while I have the truck on jack stands. What should I do to keep the axle from turning while I try to loosen that pinion nut?
I checked my front differential fluid level and it was really low . I checked it because I noticed it really oily all around there. Bummer, I just bought the truck.. it’s a 05 chevy colorado z71 5 cyl 4x4 . Would I do it the same way. This was a great video.
I don’t need to use the pulley tool my yoke just popped right off after taking the big bolt off should that have happened?
awesome video
Very helpful bro, thank you!!!!🙏
good to see before diving in, thanks for the tips
very informative video! Thank you for sharing... 👍👍👍
Ok was here to see how you removed the large nut but since you show that I'll leave to search for a video that does show.....
Can silicone be used on the threads just to make it more oil leack proof?
You don't want to do that
great video
Sorry man but you sound sweet as hell with that lisp
Good video to watch if you turn the volume down. 🤷♂️
I have a gasket leak as well but Also a little humming noise, on/off going down a hill, would that be part of it ?
Oh i found out what that was
Great tutorial!
Also, when my opinion seal did that it was a rubberized washer that sat between the nut and the yolk that was either missing or all messed up and it was causing it to leak down the threads of the output shaft and that's what was causing me. It was not the main oil seal that you show tapping in. Was there another washer or anything like that on your assembly? I have an 87 so it could be different
How did you stop the leaking by the threats
@LEONDELASIERRA1 I had a shop rebuild all the u joints and they fixed it.
its been 3 years, has it started leaking again? Just curious.
could not pull out the yoke on my '04 2500 Suburban 4 x 4
Great video thank you so much for sharing really going to help me so much 💯💯💯👍👍👍
Glad I could help Anthony!
Awesome vid. Thanks for the info.
Glad to help! :)
Great job man
Thanks! :)
Chock your wheels folks!
That’s never a bad idea, thanks for looking out!
My 09 Silverado having the same leak 😅
very helpful thank you
You can knock it in as well by getting a small 2x4 and hitting slowly around the ring should be ok will not mess it up nice vid man
Oh that’s a good idea, I wish I had thought of that! Thanks man!
Did it leak again after replacement and drivibg
I have a torque wrench can I just torque it to manufacture specs?
I think that could work, but when I looked into it, people said to measure the active/in-motion torque, not the breakaway torque (like what a standard wrench would set at) and so that’s why I just installed to the same thread count. Ideally if you can get a wrench with a torque gauge installed on it, that will ensure you get it dialed in just right!
Is it there a torquing procedure for the nut that holds the yolk onto the output shaft?
That’s why you count your turns and mark it when taking that nut off
Great video thanks
Do you by chance remember the thread count sticking out past the nut? Hoping you wrote it down. I need to know for mine.
Shoot, I’m sorry man, I know I had it written down at the time but that note is long gone… to be honest, I don’t remember it being down too low, I want to say maybe ~5 threads were showing?
@@1Brain4Wheels thanks
You’re awesome man!! Great video
Thanks Randy, I appreciate it!
do you have to remove the fluid first?
No, it will find a way to the floor tho
Well done.
Thanks!
So what happens if you don’t mark it
Manual for 2007-2009 but may be different for yours. Suspect 2007-2013 1500.:
Pinion and Differential Case Bearing Preload, New
Bearings
3.4-6.2 N.m 30-55 lb in
Pinion and Differential Case Bearing Preload, Used
Bearings
2.8-5.1 N.m 25-45 lb in
AWESOME THANKS
How do you find out what gm gear size i have?
Glove box
Well done
Thanks, I appreciate it!
Maim man ❤❤❤ great 👍
How much torque on the pinion bolt?
A lot...look it up for your vehicle. Its online
Puller what else can I use?
Take a screw. Drill it to old seal. And use a hammer and pull down. Comes out easy. No puller needed.
Is that the front differential or the rear?
This is for the rear
👍♥️💪💪
i can see a foot in a flip flop. that is not proper footwear for automotive work
Way better to watch with sound off !!!
How about you do it the right way and use a torque wrench
What’s the torque specs
Because that’s NOT the right way. There is no torque spec. The correct way is to remove the whole carrier, & measure pinion preload. Nobody wants to do that for a simple pinion seal replacement, so this method maintains the original preload.
Very cool , thanks
@@jscm3738 there is definitely a torque spec for the bolts holding the u-joint straps in place and that torque is 15 ft/lb. And that is a very important one considering the load it can receive if not torqued properly.
who cares about pinion preload anyways?
I didn't mark anything
😂😂😂
Yeah we all should care.