For perpetuity, should fill up the fill tube first cause you are drawing a big air pocket into your system. Have 1 gallon extra too so you don't have an issue pulling coolant
Great video. I’ve been researching pressure tester / fillers for awhile now. I have a 98 Dodge Ram that I’ve been having overheating issues with to the point where I just took the thermostat out. Never could get all the air out. Now that it’s summer in south Louisiana I need the thermostat back on. The question I had was answered first thing when I went to your comments. It was concerning if the entire system would fill up with the thermostat installed. Thanks again.
I replaced coolant bypass valve on 2013 Ford Escape. Opened drain plug bottom of radiator then replaced valve and reinstalled drain plug. Attempted to use Maddox vacuum but can't get any pressure built up on the gauge. I am assuming I am missing something very simple, but can't figure out why it isn't vacuuming. Rechecked drain plug and valve but don't see any issues with them. I mean there is no vacuum what so ever that will even move the needle. Instructions mentioned may be necessary to close overflow hose, but I was unfamiliar with this.
@@BigBlueRacing I do not believe that the vacuum opens the thermostat here since this is sucking the system the opposite way if anything it's keeping it closed.
@@Sulfen Theoretically, it doesn't need to open it. Vacuum fills the system in both directions, going not only from the tank to the engine, but also backwards from the tank to the radiator (through the overfill return hose), which means even if the thermostat is closed, the whole system will be air free.
For this one yes. They do sell a hand pump one at harbor freight that adds positive pressure to your system to find leaks. This one has negative pressure which is what allows it to suck the new coolant into the system. It's called a Radiator Pressure Test Kit by Maddox and it costs $129.99.
@bwagenberg once it pulls suction on the entire cooling system... you open the fluid up and it'll fill it all...both sides of the thermostat and the engine block.
@TJsVette honestly haven't had to use it much at all. Most projects I've done i don't need to use it. The cooling system on these cobras can be a pain, that's the main reason I got the tool.
@Simpsons.R.S lol I hear ya. I saw it today when I was in harbor freight and wondered if it was any good. Saw your video was from 4 years ago so I figured I would ask lol.
Alright, I went and got mine today. It pulls a vacuum just fine, but it doesn't hold. Put it under an actual pressure test and found 3 small leaks. Got them fixed (just loose hose clamps and a broken fitting). I put it under another pressure test, and it held for over 10 min and the pressure never dropped. So I thought I was good. Hooked everything back up and started pulling another vacuum, but it still won't hold. Now, idk what the problem is.
@@TJsVette you have seals in the water pump that are designed to maintain pressure being the coolant system is pressurized. But don’t hold up as well under vacuum. When vehicles get lots of miles a strong c Vacuum on the system can definitely do damage and increase the wear on water pump seals. Sometimes causing premature failure and wear. The best safe method is to elevate the front end of the vehicle and burp with a spill free funnel.
I replaced the water pump, thermostat and radiator last summer. I had a loose clamp and thought it was the new radiator. Got it all fixed and it holds coolant fine but this machine doesn't work lol.
Thanks for the video I bought this from Harbor Freight because my son's 2007 Pontiac Grand Prix 3800 series 3 always has issues with air pockets. The instructions that come with the unit are definitely not as clear as your video. Thank you thank you
So I was running a 27 gallon air compressor for a while, I used it for my air tools and tire machine. But I then went to a 2 stage 80 gallon... I feel the smaller one would work but have the extra volume in the 80 gallon is very nice.
Most of these vacuum tools state to use a compressor capable of 5 SCFM of air volume and provided between 80-120 PSI. I have known people who accomplished this with less capable compressor but I'd target those numbers if you can.
@@Simpsons.R.S I ordered a kit off Amazon, because I’ve been trying to burp my 2021 Acura, for 3 days, and I keep getting air, but not all apparently? I like the older cars, that have the bleeder screw. These newer cars, apparently are closed systems, and it’s impossible to get all the air out? Thanks👍
its been a while since I used it. but im pretty sure you want to manually drain the coolant. get as much out as possible. when you use the tool, you could see it bring anything left over out through the lines.
if youre cap is on the radiator, youll have to put it on there. and crimp off the overflow to the tank. if youre pressure cap is on the tank and not on the radiator, you will have to put it on the tank.
It pulls a vacuum on the system..... the cooling system is a closed system so it should pull the vacuum and hold it. If there's any leaks, that's where the vacuum will drop. If that happens you'll have to use either a dye or smoke machine to help pin point the leak. Could be head gaskets, thermostat gasket, bad radiator hoses, bad radiator, hole in the heater core, heater core hoses, hose connections, temp sensor seal.... could be a number of things that would cause it to lose the vacuum.
Question, if you have a vehicle like a older Ford pickup the world require the plug on the engine block to be removed to completely drain the coolant system, can this be used to completely drain it instead?
well this tool isnt designed to remove all the fluid... when using it some fluid that has been left over might come out. i wouldnt use it to drain all the fluid. would it work? possibly but it wasnt designed to that. its just to put a vacuum on the system to help fill it back up completely without having air pockets.
could be a number of things. anything from head gaskets to just a bad connection with the tool. did you see any leaks when the car was running and the coolant level was full?
That's a great question and I asked myself that as well. After I used the tool. I started the car up and did my normal bleeding procedure.... my levels never changed and I didn't have any heating issues afterwards.
i didnt have to. i just did it to be safe since i never used this tool before. its been a while since i did that job and ive had no heating issues with the cobra.
it tells you if you have a leack. but it wont tells you from where this tool i good for filling the system but i believ not good at spotting a leack ( where does it leack)
I have a 17 cummins did a water pump drained 5.5 gallons only took 4. Will this work with my 4 gallons already in the tank or will it just keep shooting the existing coolant out while putting the system under vacuum?
When I did my test needle wasn't movimg as smooth as yours and I couldn't get it to 24 or 26 either.and I was getting a lot of overflow from the exhaust.i got it to -23 as I shut air valve off I lost -2 instantly.any idea y?
I'd do a positive pressure test if I had those issues. This system is doing a negative pressure test/fill. Just remember that your cooling system probably operates at 16psi or in that area. CHECK YOUR RADIATOR CAP OR REPAIR MANUAL BEFORE YOU PRESSURIZE THE SYSTEM. There's no need to mess things up that aren't broken. Also make sure you have coolant or water in the system before running the test. Anyway, I'd be willing to bet that your cooling system is compromised somewhere. You're going to be looking for coolant/water leaking out with this test. So make sure it's NOT hot!!!!! This test is done with it cold. No point in ending up in the hospital with 2nd degree burns (or worse). Hope this helps and you find the problem. Be safe out there.
Tried it on a UTV 700 and wouldn’t hold air pressure, not sure it it’s a total sealed system. Left the air on the whole time spit an sputtered until I had a constant drip coming out of the air release overflow valve then sucked in fluid only 1/4 of a gallon, System did have some coolant in it. Took it off and was filled up to cap. Anyone have experience with UTV is the concept the same? I don’t have anything leaking?
The concept should be the same. And it should be a sealed system for sure. The only pressure release should be from the radiator cap. If it's not sealing up, air can get into the coolant system causing leaking conditions and causing air pockets which could cause over heating conditions.
Once you pull the vacuum it can bring more coolant out when it's doing that.... now is it going to pull all of it out of the block.. I can't say 100% yes.. but it does get most of it out.
I have this but I was told I need to prime the hose have it full of coolant before filling the system is that true because wouldnt the empty hose push air into the systen?
Thats a very good point. After I used it, i double checked using my traditional way. Everything worked well and I didn't have any issues or air trapped in the system.
I saw someone else suggest opening the fill hose for a second before shutting off the air - just long enough to fill the hose with coolant from the bucket - then shut both valves, look for any leak-down on the vacuum gauge, then open the fill valve to fill the system.
Do you know what to do if the dash lights come on afterwards the brake light the abs the vcs the exclamation point light..but when I run my obd2 reader there are no faults in the computer ..I can't clear them since the computer says they aren't there..
depends on what tool you have. the cheap obd2 are just code readers for the engine. the higher end ones can tell you what is going on with the other faults. it can be a bunch of different things when it comes to throwing those lights unfortunately.
That really seems to be a problem with either the ignition switch or gauge cluster. It seems to be stuck in the bulb-test mode that you would normally only see when you turn the key to the “on “ or “run” position before starting the car.
My biggest issue with this tool is the gauge on it. Absolute atmospheric pressure is very close to 14.7 psia. Therefore, with gauge atmospheric pressure at zero, the lowest the vacuum could ever get to is -14.7 psig. Anything lower than that isn't possible. But functionally the tool seems to work well and I'm going to get one for myself. Maybe I'll figure out if I can put a real gauge on it, but it likely doesn't need one since you are looking for a change over time in the vacuum.
The gauge is reading in inches of mercury. Atmospheric pressure will read zero or near zero on this gauge because the gauge is at equilibrium. As you draw a vacuum you will see the pressure go into the negative pressure (actually lower pressure than atmosphere). So if you were at sea level then you would hope to draw near 29.92" HG or -.9 bar, or -14.7 PSI. If you're in Denver, Colorado, with an elevation of 1 mile above sea level then the vacuum will be less because atmospheric pressure is less. My gauge doesn't sit at zero simply because I live at 1000 feet above sea level so the gauge is already exposed to less atmospheric pressure than it would be at sea level. Under full vacuum I am lucky to read 26" of HG.
Agreed, this is an amazing product and your video helped me use it today. I used it on a 2009 Mini Cooper with no heater running.
For perpetuity, should fill up the fill tube first cause you are drawing a big air pocket into your system. Have 1 gallon extra too so you don't have an issue pulling coolant
I was thinking the same thing
Great video. I’ve been researching pressure tester / fillers for awhile now. I have a 98 Dodge Ram that I’ve been having overheating issues with to the point where I just took the thermostat out. Never could get all the air out. Now that it’s summer in south Louisiana I need the thermostat back on. The question I had was answered first thing when I went to your comments. It was concerning if the entire system would fill up with the thermostat installed.
Thanks again.
Thanks for the video I needed this for my 3.5 Ecoboost going to get it tomorrow
Love the mystic color brother gonna be doing this to my terminator soon 😎
I replaced coolant bypass valve on 2013 Ford Escape. Opened drain plug bottom of radiator then replaced valve and reinstalled drain plug. Attempted to use Maddox vacuum but can't get any pressure built up on the gauge. I am assuming I am missing something very simple, but can't figure out why it isn't vacuuming. Rechecked drain plug and valve but don't see any issues with them. I mean there is no vacuum what so ever that will even move the needle. Instructions mentioned may be necessary to close overflow hose, but I was unfamiliar with this.
Should you do this with the car warmed up? What happens if the Thermostat is closed?
Vacuum opens the stat
@@BigBlueRacing I do not believe that the vacuum opens the thermostat here since this is sucking the system the opposite way if anything it's keeping it closed.
@@Sulfen Theoretically, it doesn't need to open it. Vacuum fills the system in both directions, going not only from the tank to the engine, but also backwards from the tank to the radiator (through the overfill return hose), which means even if the thermostat is closed, the whole system will be air free.
Thanks for the video.
Does coolant need to be out to do a pressure test?
For this one yes. They do sell a hand pump one at harbor freight that adds positive pressure to your system to find leaks. This one has negative pressure which is what allows it to suck the new coolant into the system. It's called a Radiator Pressure Test Kit by Maddox and it costs $129.99.
How do you open the thermostat and drain/fill the block?
@bwagenberg once it pulls suction on the entire cooling system... you open the fluid up and it'll fill it all...both sides of the thermostat and the engine block.
How has this held up over the time that you have had it?
@TJsVette honestly haven't had to use it much at all. Most projects I've done i don't need to use it. The cooling system on these cobras can be a pain, that's the main reason I got the tool.
@Simpsons.R.S lol I hear ya. I saw it today when I was in harbor freight and wondered if it was any good. Saw your video was from 4 years ago so I figured I would ask lol.
@TJsVette 😂😂 yaaa old video but it did work great.
You paid $8 bucks? I just looked at it and it was $79.99. Great video, very helpful.
hahah I can't remember what i said in that video. unless i had gift cards, i dont think i got it for 8 😂. i think it was 80 when i got it too 👍
Alright, I went and got mine today. It pulls a vacuum just fine, but it doesn't hold.
Put it under an actual pressure test and found 3 small leaks. Got them fixed (just loose hose clamps and a broken fitting).
I put it under another pressure test, and it held for over 10 min and the pressure never dropped. So I thought I was good. Hooked everything back up and started pulling another vacuum, but it still won't hold. Now, idk what the problem is.
You have leaks
@rickylee2477 why would it hold pressure under a pressure test?
@@TJsVette you have seals in the water pump that are designed to maintain pressure being the coolant system is pressurized. But don’t hold up as well under vacuum.
When vehicles get lots of miles a strong c
Vacuum on the system can definitely do damage and increase the wear on water pump seals. Sometimes causing premature failure and wear.
The best safe method is to elevate the front end of the vehicle and burp with a spill free funnel.
@@TJsVette so what I mean is the vacuum could very well be causing a leak thru water pump seal that isn’t present when the system is under pressure.
I replaced the water pump, thermostat and radiator last summer. I had a loose clamp and thought it was the new radiator. Got it all fixed and it holds coolant fine but this machine doesn't work lol.
Quick question should I set the heater control to max or it isn’t necessary?
technically it shouldnt be necessary, but i would just to be on the safe side.
@@Simpsons.R.S Appreciated brother
Thanks for the video I bought this from Harbor Freight because my son's 2007 Pontiac Grand Prix 3800 series 3 always has issues with air pockets.
The instructions that come with the unit are definitely not as clear as your video.
Thank you thank you
Those 3800s are bullet proof. I had a GTP years back.
1st time considering this and novice at car repair. How big of a compressor would you recommend?
So I was running a 27 gallon air compressor for a while, I used it for my air tools and tire machine. But I then went to a 2 stage 80 gallon... I feel the smaller one would work but have the extra volume in the 80 gallon is very nice.
Most of these vacuum tools state to use a compressor capable of 5 SCFM of air volume and provided between 80-120 PSI. I have known people who accomplished this with less capable compressor but I'd target those numbers if you can.
You had an empty system, before you put vacuum on it, correct?
Correct. I drained all the coolant out before I ran the tool.
@@Simpsons.R.S I ordered a kit off Amazon, because I’ve been trying to burp my 2021 Acura, for 3 days, and I keep getting air, but not all apparently? I like the older cars, that have the bleeder screw. These newer cars, apparently are closed systems, and it’s impossible to get all the air out? Thanks👍
Welllll hopefully you don't have a blown head gasket or something like that haha. But ya this tool works really well for me 👍
oh wow!! This was way too easy.
I'm going to have to try this method next!
Thank you
Does it remove coolant from the system so that I can work on empty system?
its been a while since I used it. but im pretty sure you want to manually drain the coolant. get as much out as possible. when you use the tool, you could see it bring anything left over out through the lines.
Does it go on the radiator or the coolant reservoir?
if youre cap is on the radiator, youll have to put it on there. and crimp off the overflow to the tank. if youre pressure cap is on the tank and not on the radiator, you will have to put it on the tank.
Great video .. I have to replace coolant tank on 06 charger .. have to vacuum down .. will Def be getting this .. Thanks
Can you remove the fluid as well as refill with this system
thats a good question. I honestly dont know how well it would work. its not designed to pull the fluid out.
You would probably just drain the fluid from the bottom of the radiator
Now this kit is a vaccum tester not a pressure tester correct?
It pulls a vacuum on the system..... the cooling system is a closed system so it should pull the vacuum and hold it. If there's any leaks, that's where the vacuum will drop. If that happens you'll have to use either a dye or smoke machine to help pin point the leak. Could be head gaskets, thermostat gasket, bad radiator hoses, bad radiator, hole in the heater core, heater core hoses, hose connections, temp sensor seal.... could be a number of things that would cause it to lose the vacuum.
Question, if you have a vehicle like a older Ford pickup the world require the plug on the engine block to be removed to completely drain the coolant system, can this be used to completely drain it instead?
well this tool isnt designed to remove all the fluid... when using it some fluid that has been left over might come out. i wouldnt use it to drain all the fluid. would it work? possibly but it wasnt designed to that. its just to put a vacuum on the system to help fill it back up completely without having air pockets.
mines go down after the I close the valve and take the air off what could all cause leaks?
could be a number of things. anything from head gaskets to just a bad connection with the tool. did you see any leaks when the car was running and the coolant level was full?
@Cobra Garage it was the tool want all the way flush thank God, if air gets into while filling just repeat the cycle again right?
i feel that would work. once its full of coolant. fire the car back up and watch the fluid level just to be safe
Does the filler tester force the thermostat open as well to get the coolant through the entire system?
That's a great question and I asked myself that as well. After I used the tool. I started the car up and did my normal bleeding procedure.... my levels never changed and I didn't have any heating issues afterwards.
It wouldn’t matter if the thermostat opens or not as is filling from both sides of the system.
@@Simpsons.R.S Why did you have to perform a standard bleeding procedure after you did the vacuum method?
i didnt have to. i just did it to be safe since i never used this tool before. its been a while since i did that job and ive had no heating issues with the cobra.
@@Simpsons.R.Swhat procedure?
What size compressor?
i was running my 80 gallon campbell comp. but you dont need one that big to run this. having the extra air does help though.
it tells you if you have a leack. but it wont tells you from where
this tool i good for filling the system
but i believ not good at spotting a leack ( where does it leack)
1:34 when the video really starts
I have a 17 cummins did a water pump drained 5.5 gallons only took 4. Will this work with my 4 gallons already in the tank or will it just keep shooting the existing coolant out while putting the system under vacuum?
honestly im not sure. i would say to be safe, is to drain it into a clean bucket and then run the vacuum on it.
How many psi is -21inHg?also what does inHg mean
-21inHg is -10.3psi. inHg means inch of mercury.
I just bought the Mac Tools version of this tool. I haven't used it yet
That's sensational. So you paid additional, disposable money for a product that will do the same thing because it says MAC on it. BRILLIANT!
When I did my test needle wasn't movimg as smooth as yours and I couldn't get it to 24 or 26 either.and I was getting a lot of overflow from the exhaust.i got it to -23 as I shut air valve off I lost -2 instantly.any idea y?
I'd do a positive pressure test if I had those issues. This system is doing a negative pressure test/fill. Just remember that your cooling system probably operates at 16psi or in that area. CHECK YOUR RADIATOR CAP OR REPAIR MANUAL BEFORE YOU PRESSURIZE THE SYSTEM. There's no need to mess things up that aren't broken. Also make sure you have coolant or water in the system before running the test.
Anyway, I'd be willing to bet that your cooling system is compromised somewhere. You're going to be looking for coolant/water leaking out with this test. So make sure it's NOT hot!!!!! This test is done with it cold. No point in ending up in the hospital with 2nd degree burns (or worse). Hope this helps and you find the problem. Be safe out there.
has anyone tried the seal on mid 2000s hundai rads ?
You keep getting a air pocket because you're not bleeding the line before you start feeling
Drill a hole thru the inner layer in the box you can leave the air fitting on shame on maddox.😂
Tried it on a UTV 700 and wouldn’t hold air pressure, not sure it it’s a total sealed system. Left the air on the whole time spit an sputtered until I had a constant drip coming out of the air release overflow valve then sucked in fluid only 1/4 of a gallon,
System did have some coolant in it.
Took it off and was filled up to cap.
Anyone have experience with UTV is the concept the same? I don’t have anything leaking?
The concept should be the same. And it should be a sealed system for sure. The only pressure release should be from the radiator cap. If it's not sealing up, air can get into the coolant system causing leaking conditions and causing air pockets which could cause over heating conditions.
What if you can't completely drain the coolant from the block? Does this device pull that out when you're pulling vacuum?
Once you pull the vacuum it can bring more coolant out when it's doing that.... now is it going to pull all of it out of the block.. I can't say 100% yes.. but it does get most of it out.
It does not pull out what is left in the engine block.
I have this but I was told I need to prime the hose have it full of coolant before filling the system is that true because wouldnt the empty hose push air into the systen?
Thats a very good point. After I used it, i double checked using my traditional way. Everything worked well and I didn't have any issues or air trapped in the system.
I saw someone else suggest opening the fill hose for a second before shutting off the air - just long enough to fill the hose with coolant from the bucket - then shut both valves, look for any leak-down on the vacuum gauge, then open the fill valve to fill the system.
Guessing?
What's up?
Do you know what to do if the dash lights come on afterwards the brake light the abs the vcs the exclamation point light..but when I run my obd2 reader there are no faults in the computer ..I can't clear them since the computer says they aren't there..
depends on what tool you have. the cheap obd2 are just code readers for the engine. the higher end ones can tell you what is going on with the other faults. it can be a bunch of different things when it comes to throwing those lights unfortunately.
That really seems to be a problem with either the ignition switch or gauge cluster. It seems to be stuck in the bulb-test mode that you would normally only see when you turn the key to the “on “ or “run” position before starting the car.
My biggest issue with this tool is the gauge on it. Absolute atmospheric pressure is very close to 14.7 psia. Therefore, with gauge atmospheric pressure at zero, the lowest the vacuum could ever get to is -14.7 psig. Anything lower than that isn't possible. But functionally the tool seems to work well and I'm going to get one for myself. Maybe I'll figure out if I can put a real gauge on it, but it likely doesn't need one since you are looking for a change over time in the vacuum.
The gauge is reading in inches of mercury. Atmospheric pressure will read zero or near zero on this gauge because the gauge is at equilibrium. As you draw a vacuum you will see the pressure go into the negative pressure (actually lower pressure than atmosphere). So if you were at sea level then you would hope to draw near 29.92" HG or -.9 bar, or -14.7 PSI. If you're in Denver, Colorado, with an elevation of 1 mile above sea level then the vacuum will be less because atmospheric pressure is less. My gauge doesn't sit at zero simply because I live at 1000 feet above sea level so the gauge is already exposed to less atmospheric pressure than it would be at sea level. Under full vacuum I am lucky to read 26" of HG.
Wasn't working at first but than It did and well looking at the oem tools version one I think that one is better made than this