How to Vacuum Fill Your Cooling System (Astro 78585 Review and Instructions)
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2020
- In this video I show you how to vacuum fill your cooling system to eliminate air pockets in the cooling system that can cause overheating problems. To do this I will be using Astro Pneumatic part number 78585. All of these vacuum filling units all work the same way. The tool draws a vacuum on the cooling system removing all air from the cooling system. Next you attach a suction line to draw the antifreeze or coolant into the cooling system when the valve is opened. This procedure will eliminate the need to burp the air from your cooling system. This Astro Pneumatic Master Cooling System Service Kit also has the ability to pressure test your cooling system and some radiator caps.
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Newer Audi, Porsche, & VW Adapter: amzn.to/3d9Dsbi
Cheaper Pressure Tester & Vacuum Filler: amzn.to/30JIZQP
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The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user Repair Geek makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. Repair Geek shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by Repair Geek and therefore, Repair Geek does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge Repair Geek or anyone affiliated with Repair Geek, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law. - Авто та транспорт
Links:
Pressure tester and Vacuum Filler: amzn.to/30Fnv7y
Newer Ford & GM Adapter: amzn.to/36InyDM
Newer Land Rover & BMW Adapter: amzn.to/3ntIQLh
Newer Audi, Porsche, & VW Adapter: amzn.to/3d9Dsbi
Cheaper Pressure Tester & Vacuum Filler: amzn.to/30JIZQP
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
Very helpful as I’ll be needing one of these for my Volvo
this video wasn't very helpful. Need to figure out how to cool radbolt generators in the vacuum of space for the atomic collider. i was thinking i'm supposed to create glass shields but thats out of the question only have 3 solar panels and need it for them. Probably have to pipe sewage up there that probably will work.
Isn't their a pocket of air in the coolant hose that gets sucked up between the coolant jug and the tool, don't you need to bleed that first 🤔
@@ryandass15 his videos aren't good. need to look up other Oxygen Not Included videos
You are missing the Astro Pneumatic Tool 7858523 NO. 23 Radiator Test Cap (Late Model Audi, VW, Porsche).
Depending on the cooling system, and repair made, even though during filling the needle drops to 0 with no more coolant being sucked in, I have found the majority of the time, it is needed to close the fill valve, and open the vacuum valve to further vacuum the system. When you do that, you can hear a difference in airflow (small air pockets being filled with coolant while air is sucked out). You can also feel the air pockets coming through if you put your hand where the tool is hooked to the system. Bottom line, is pulling a vacuum once doesn't cut it on major repairs where lots of coolant is lost, and pockets form in the engine. The venturi effect can only pull so much vacuum on the non collapsible parts of the system, and the most obvious source of vacuum is the flat hoses opening back up. Dont just go one and done. Reapply vacuum for a bit, and fill again. Source: I've done this professionally for many years with several designs of the same type of tool. They all have the same result, and need to be vacuumed down for a second time to be thoroughly filled. It's not the tool. Its the cooling system and repair made to it.
So you're saying that before you introduce any coolant back to the system you pull vacuum, let it sit, then pull vacuum again? Then you introduce the coolant and fill to the vacuum is replaced with fluid and the gauge shows 0?
@@scottweiss6750 pull a second vacuum to get any extra air pockets out that may not have been sucked out on the first go. On the second vacuum, its personal preference to let it sit to verify a sealed system (needle not dropping)
Excellent advice, this is exactly what Uview recommends in their user manual for the AirLift 550000. I have a question for you, since you have run into this firsthand: After the first evacuation and refill, the vehicle cooling system now contains a large amount of coolant. When you attempt to evacuate for a second time to remove any lingering air pockets, how long are you applying the compressed air? Are you still attempting to reach 24 - 26 inHg on the gauge? Since the system is not empty as it was during the first evacuation, I'm concerned about how much coolant would be expelled from the tool during the second evacuation (appreciate if you could share what your experience has been in this area).
Thanks in advance for taking the time to respond back.
@@StilettoSniper @StilettoSniper not much coolant is lost during the second vacuum. But it needs to be done to remove any sneaky air pockets. I can't give an accurate range of how much vacuum will be achieved on round 2 because results very greatly between cooling system sizes, repair made, and which systems have a tendency to trap more or less air. Personally I mostly play it by ear and timing. You can hear the change in airflow as an air pocket is expelled through the tool. As more air is displaced by coolant, and there becomes less to vacuum, the airflow changes will become less frequent until they stop completely. At which point, only coolant will be slowly sucked out. Flip the valves, and fill the system the rest of the way. And done.
(By the way, there's no reason to worry about coolant being sucked out and lost. Just put the exhaust hose from the tool into an empty coolant jug. It will catch expelled coolant, which can simply be poured into the jug the fill hose is in)
EDIT.. I forgot to clarify a little bit as to an example of two different cooling systems, that would most likely have a very different vacuum achieved on round 2, or even round 3 (if need be).
Let's say a simple nissan maxima with a v6 vs a nissan armada with rear heat.
The maxima by round 2 will most likely hit 15-20 inHg and be good to go at the end of round 2. Whereas the nissan armada, since the rear heater core is elevated higher than the radiator, let's assume that the rear heater core and lines drained out during engine repair. Now there is much more air that needs to be displaced, and replaced by coolant. As well as the fact that in that instance, you also have to battle gravity a little. Roumd 2 in that case will most likely be about 25 inHg. And may take a 3rd or 4th round depending on circumstances.
I know it seems excessive, but I have found myself doing 3 and maybe 4 rounds in some cases just for good measure, but that depends on how the previous vacuum process sounded, and frequency of needle drops. (Oil filled guage for much more stable readings while pulling vacuum)
Yes this is the way to go. Mine need just a little bit more but worth the second check
The best video I have found on UA-cam so far, showing how to use this kit. GREAT JOB!
Dude thank you so much for this video.
I’ve had this tool for over a year and never knew it had this functionality.
This tool is well worth the money. Easy to use and fast. Thanks again for the tip and the link.
After nine months of searching your video showed me what I needed to do! Thank you so much!
This solved my coolant-air-pocket-issue perfectly!!!! Thank you for the upload!
Dude you nailed it with this video, you got the one that explains everything thank you brother
Great video! You really explained all the functions of the tool and now I'm going to buy one!!
Thank you very much i got this kit used for very cheap and this was the best demo I’ve seen🎉🎉🎉
This tool is an awsome sucker. It just make me want to hook my vaccumm pump for AC installation and pull the system to an absolute vaccum. Thanks for the demo.
Thanks for the video . Having the cooling system empty and being able to perform a vacuum test is great . Before reassembly it is good idea to test for leaks to make sure you have no leaks and you save coolant which is not cheap anymore.
4:05-5:03 WELL SAID . Thorough explanation and presentation of potential issues.
7:50 the extra thorough work to pressure test, even though no leaks were made known while held under vacuum. And the AWESOME (and very plausible) theory 🤓 on why there could potentially be a false sense of a “sealed” “leak-free” system. Could leak later down the road and leave a customer unhappy (stranded if they overheat or even won’t drive with a leak. which we should never fault them for early repairs, or preventative maintenance) and leave a mechanic embarrassed; also maybe scratching our head.
*subscribed, and all notifications turned on!
Thanks brother. I'm trying to learn more and more about this mechanic stuff. Seem like you have some knowledge behind you!
Best explanation of how to use this tools , Thanks
The majority of cooling systems no longer have radiator caps. This tool is essential to modern auto repair and maintenance!!
I have one of the top units made by master cool, that I got off the Cornwell truck. I actually they were on back order and I got one used for my birthday! I’m unsure about the cheaper sets, especially where valve components are plastic, but Astro pneumatic is a pretty well-established brand. And all the components are the same selection for the most part. (of unknown varied quality.) For multiple reasons above: Glad you did this review!!
Wicked video, I had bought this kit for the pressure tester and wondered what the vacuum part was for, thanks!
I've never thought about your water pump analogy before, but that makes perfect sense. If it was sealed you probably would never get an air pocket in the first place.
This is awesome, i will get this over spending $500 on the same stuff from tool truck
great demonstration of the kit, for anyone in the UK/Europe, these kits are available for £55 on ebay or Amazon currently (late 2023) they don't quite fit the older peugeot/citroen quite right, the seal diameter is a little large though the cap itself fits fine.
Your video is the best! Picked up the unit through Amazon. I tried to get logged on to your Amazon page, that they were like wanting way too much information, bro. Really enjoyed the way you presented it made it simple I'm kind of bummed out because I really wanted to get one of your geek repair sweatshirts.
Is it for my 2005 Porsche Cayenne sports model V8? The dealer wanted $780 to flush out the fluid and put a new fluid.
Little tricky getting to the drain plug, but all that being said, I got extra money for surfing now
Well done...a lot of this I learned the hard way at my technician job...Honda is always making things difficult! Lol
Hi can you use the manual pressure tester air pump, on the vacuum generator, where you said the compressed air hose attaches instead.
Nice man I was going to buy the snap one which is pretty expensive. good job thanks for the info
My 2006 chrysler 300 is a nightmare to bleed out the air. Definitely will need to get this tool for the next time I need to remove the coolant.
Best explanatory , Well done you have excellent communicating skills , INTELLIGENT you yes i wish you well , the manufacturers of these system in cars dumb i will be looking forward for when these mechanical systems become obsolete .
Good job on everything
Good video though and good resolution, thanks for sharing this video with us.
I got the cheaper pressure tester ($88) but the fittings for the air compressor does not fit standard shop air. What fitting do you have in your Astro 78585? Is it S-210 or S-217? Thank you!
Question what if you added the coolant and bleeding is not working !! Do you need to during the system to use this tool .
What kind of compressor or what you suggest to used for this toll
Hello! Thanks! Too good Video. When you open the faucet to start filling in new coolant in the system, there is air in that hose that comes from the canister with the cooler in it. Where does that air go when you have opened the faucet to fill in coolant? Thanks! From Tommy Bertilsson from Sweden
if the system has coolant, it needs to be drained in order to vaccum?
Great video ❤
Can you explain me firstly the system is totally empty...or it is prefilled..and ..and you just..fill..some for the process....secondly the left pipe black and green...you attached is air that compresses out in or it is vacuum in out
Did you fill the system most of the way full of coolant before starting this procedure?
Great tool and video. Thanks
Can you use the hand pump if you don't have an air comprosser ?
What about the air left in the inlet hoose when submerging it into the new coolant bottle?
Do I need to remove the thermostat tho or make sure it’s open in anyway ?
so if the system currently has an air pocket in it. Doing this will pull the air pocket out?
So what happens to the left over coolant or water in the system does it come out when air is applied or does it just stay in and the air is forced out??? I flushed mine and added a gallon of fluid so there is air and fluid. Do I have to completely restart or can I just use this vacuum and continue from where I’m at?
Can you put a vacuum on if there is still a littel bit coolant inside
Great video!!! About Amazon, I lost my money after returning a delayed + wrong item. No more Amazon for me.
will this suck air from the block and heater core? i mean thermostat is close when its cold so how does this one will suck air in the block of the engine?
I noticed in the video when you introduced compressed air that the needle stopped just between the red and yellow line. How do you know how much compressed air to use and where the needle should stop? Is it always 24 - 26 inHg or is it different for every car?
2019 jeep wrangler jl sport 3.6 does not have radiator or drain plug, so for this how do you flush and refill coolant on this jeep?
I did a funnel refill and i have air left in the system.
1. Do i need to drain out the coolant to do this vacuum refill?
2. Can a vacuum pump be used instead of compressed air?
Thanks
Does the air compressor does as vacuum machine ??
Excellent. 🤔
how is coolant water drawn ? and air and thx to u
Is it possible to use this tool when the system has some coolant already and you just need to get rid of the air pocket without completely draining the system of coolant? Thank you
if i have air pocket do i need to drain fluid is left in system to start again with vacuum part?
My escape doesn't have a radiator cap. is there an attachment for the fill bottle?
Can i use the vacuum filler to extract all the coolant ?
I know you can rent the coolant pressure testing tool from auto parts retailers like AutoZone, but I am not sure about the vacuum filler. I didn't know there was a tool to vacuum fill coolant. Thanks for sharing.
Do you have to empty the coolant before starting with step 1 (at minute 03:00) ?
I have had my wife's mini cooper and changed out the coolant. I had to turn a screw next to the thermostat housing and it bled it like a bleeder on brakes and allowed for full flow of the coolant after bleeding this system.
Can i use a 12v compressor ?
I think it would be perfect if you showed a complete drain and then preparation for the refill .. just a thought,thank you
Does this kit include a Nissan adapter?
Do you need a vacuum pump or a compressor to use this tool?
I've been looking for a good solution to bleeding the air out of my coolant systems and this looks way better than those funnels that hook to the radiator cap, plus this can replace my 30 year old pressure tester.
@@GregsAutomotive Really!? I guess every one is different, but sucking it in under vacuum was faster for both my Cummins and my Jeep 4.0.
Which is the right one? They have Maddock and 2444 oem
What happened to all that air in the line at 5:55?
Surely you can purge the line before releasing the vacuum?
Also can this tool be used if the system has 95% of the coolant still in the system? Or does it have to be empty?
I don't have shop air, any ideas guys on rasing vacuum to properly purge and FIL the cooling system.
what if there is already coolant in the system? can this still work?
Can you also use this for oil changes?
How do you fill a cooling system without the thermostat being open I have a 2004 Envoy
Eres el Mejor👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I love mine.
Isn't there some air trapped in the hose which is drawing the coolant? Before the coolant is sucked to the valve there is some air trapped in the hose. What do you do with that?
Couldn't I use the venturi effect to also suck out the coolant?
Do you have to completely drain the system in order for this to work? I've done it a couple times at work but definitely need more practice. Now I just flushed out my engine and radiator and now my coolant is heating up really fast so I need to burp the system. Just bought a vacuum pressurizer like yours and going to do it that way.
Do I need to manually get rid of all of the coolant in radiator and engine before I pressurize and put the fluid back in? Or can that tool do that job? Thanks!
You should try it and see what happens. It won't damage anything. Worst case it will spray out coolant when you try to vacuum it down.
@@RepairGeek I really appreciate your very fast reply bud. Thank you very much. I just got to work and we have a Snap-on coolant system refiller that I'll be doing it properly with today. My coolant gets to operating temperature within minutes after I flushed out engine and radiator so I feel there's still air pockets inside even after attempting to jack in up and burp it for 30 mins yesterday.
Fill the hose with coolant prior to filling . Otherwise it will suck small amount of air within the hose
Yes, in fact my instruction manual states this:”The Refill Hose must be purged. Slowly open the Coolant Refill Valve so thatthe coolant fills the Refill Hose. Close the Coolant Refill Valve. This process willcause a drop in vacuum.Open Air Inlet valve to re-establish the maximum vacuum level in the Coolingsystem. Close the Air Inlet Valve.Open Coolant Refill Valve slowly. The vehicle coolant system is full when thevacuum gauge reads zero.”
@@ACitizenOfOurWorld what's the clear hose for ? Fits onto the barb below the airline fitting? I assume bleeding off excess air ?
@@jonny_s14
Yes you can put the hose on that connector so you're not blowing coolant in the engine bay or on the ground if you're doing this outside. stick the end in an empty bottle.
Great vid thanks, two questions 1) How does it deal with with any coolant left in that won't drain out? 2) How does it pull coolant/vacuum past the thermostat? Thanks
That's what I want to know
@@Scousewil Apparently the thermostat 'always' has a small hole/pin valve in it to allow for this? I checked on mine and it did. As for leftover coolant I think some is always left in there, maybe flushing with a hose would clear the old crap but IDK...
@@spandon Ohhh ok that's interesting about the pinhole I didn't know that. Cheers mate 👍
Did you drain the system before?
which scan tool is that?
Fantastic video sir!! Only question I have is when you pressure tested the system at the end by pumping air INTO the system, did it not push air into the system and thereby require you to top off the fluid when you removed the adapter?
Ya, a little late, but simple answer is no. The coolant, mostly water, is not compressible. Only the air (gas) is and compresses as it is pumped. If there is a leak in the system it will manifest as coolant dripping onto the ground.
@@bigdfig6083 Thank Ya!! Been standing at my hood for 2 years awaiting your response :) Seriously though, Thank ya!!
That is a neat tool to have. My G35 was a pain in the butt to bleed through traditional funnel. I spent over 3hrs. Question: shouldn’t you purge the fill hose with coolant first so that the air from the hose does not get introduced into the cooling system?
100%, suck up coolant into the hose so there's no air in it.
All Honda cars have a bleeder screw on the high point of the engine, usually on the intake of cylinder head coolant passage. Many other makes have this high point bleed screw. This allows bleeding air pockets out
Question: Can this Astro kit be placed on the coolant reservoir if the radiator does not have a radiator cap?
Yes. The kit has adapters for that.
Do I have drain radiator completely
Will this work with Audi's because they have an expansion tank where the filling goes through there.They do not have a standard rad cad
You just attach to the expansion tank in that case
that kit looks brand spankin new........so really how much experience do you have with this kit? is some Chinese Temu brand sponsoring this bideo?
Where can i get that tool
How long does that light last on high? I been wanting to get one of those. Because I have been using two rocket lights on each side. And still find myself wanting more light to be blasted down the rear of the engine bay.
Not to be condescending but it depends on the battery you are using. 6.0 on high is probably in the 4 to 6 hour range. On low it's easily over 8 hours with a 6.0
@@RepairGeek Lol don't know how the truth is condescending. Those little m12 batteries are pretty much useless for longer jobs. Thanks for the info on that light bar, I'll have to get one now.
And thanks for showing me this cooling system tool. F'n badass and saves a lot of time too.
I have one. Try filling an older blazer without it. Heater core is above the radiator. GM says park it on a 15 Degree slope. Engine facing up hill. With this kit no problem!.
BMW has joined the chat
Could a guy empty the coolant with this tool , it is a 5.7 Kodiak ,Thunder jet ? . Question empty and refill with the tool ? Please reply !
No this won't empty coolant.
If doing this via expansion tank and not directly on radiator, does the thermostat need to be open?
It makes no difference.
You took compressed air not a vacuum pump ? I dont need a vacuum pump for this right ?
should you switch on fan / heater core to high heat while filling in new fluid?
Yes.
Depends on the vehicle, if it has a tap on the heater core lines then yes. Otherwise like most modern Toyota's there is always coolant running through the core so it doesn't make a bit of difference
Say you’re doing a spill and fill on a full cooling system. When you create the vacuum, does it suck out all the old coolant you’ll be replacing?
Some because the hoses will collapse. It's not designed to remove coolant.
what PSI do you have your compressor at to achieve vacuum?
100psi
Mishimoto has this same exact kit but in a black box for $85
Thanks for that info! I appreciate it
Can I use the hamd pump to purge and refill. If I don't have access to an air compressor?
No.
Once you turned the valve on there was air in the line that went in first.
my engine has an automatic air purge on its system. ive never had issues with air in the system. you used like 2/3 of a bottle to fill the system?!? my god, i need like 7 of those!!
If there is an overflow tank does this tool get connected to that instead?
Yes, exactly.
Expensive, but looks like a very solid tool for filling systems.
The high brand ones with the same amount and type of components (quality varies) are up to $400. the valves that they come with are the most crucial. If cheap plastic components are being used with hot coolant then for sure they will break down. Especially if you live in a really cold climate. Plastic pieces that get really hot get SO brittle here up the north.
@@MrTravisAl O yea, all those heat cycles in cold climates degrade plastic quick. I bought this tool and it works amazing!
Can purchase just the vacuum unit separately for $20 and then the caps are $15 each. No need to spend money on all those caps you probably won't ever use.