Tip of the day: When cutting something with threads, like the tie rod - Put a nut on it before, so you can use the nut to "clean up" any threads if you messed them up by cutting.
I use a die. Thread on the die to the spot you plan to cut. Chuck the bolt in a vice so that the die is touching the jaws. Use the flat face of the die get a square cut with a hacksaw.
I would be careful running with no steering stops. It puts extra wear on the rack when you hit full lock a little hard. Just cut the bolt portion in half that sits in the LCA.
You mean the steering stop bolt? Also what’s the worse case scenario if you remove them and you hit full lock to hard? I have mine removed and have been drifting without them for I’d say a month so far.
@@350zKiller Yeah the steering stop bolt. Worst case you wear out the rack seals faster, your rack will be fine. Rack rebuild kits are cheap though. I just sacrificed the extra 1 or 2 degrees of angle to put less stress on the rack.
@@jake77515 what happens though if it goes out like will my car pull or anything to one side or is it just that I’ll leak fluid? Just curious as I don’t want my rack to fail and cause me to crash if that’s possible.
@@350zKiller It will just leak that's it, will still work fine while you are in drift. Honestly it will be fine for a while. You'll know when it's getting too low on fluid, the pump will start yelling at you. Just top it off with ATF and keep drifting.
@@jake77515 okay thank you bro, just wanted to make sure nothing weird would happen especially because this is one of my dream cars and my first drift car so I’m trying to take good care of it!
We had an incident.. one guy removed the stopper nut and while he drifting the right front hub came out. Thats why i dont recommend drifting the car allot without the stopper or a proper angle kit
The common issue with adding angle without modifying the Ackerman, no matter how much angle you add you will end up spinning out as soon as you approach the stock angle. The follow wheel acts like an anchor because it get less and less relative angle as you add steering lock
If you drive the car as if it still has stock angle, but still knowing you have a little extra, you wouldn’t spin out. Or course small cheap mods do not change the suspension geometry whatsoever but an extra 10* of angle can definitely save you from macking some curbs or spinning for the most part.
@@hellabroketuning7330 GK Tech claims 60 degrees of angle with their bolt-on affordable kit. So that's another 10 degrees in addition to what they measured in this video at 50 degrees of angle. Definitely worth the $200 bucks GK Tech offers that kit at!
Very interesting video. I have a dodge ram 1500. No not a drift truck. But I would be nice to be able to have a smaller turning circle with that big truck.
Next time thread the nut on then cut that way you can back the nut off and it will straighten and clean the threads after the cut.Makes life easier if you accidentally booger up the end when cutting.
Awesome!! Good to know about those tie rods! Did the 20mm spacer mess with your guys measurements?? Like makes it seem like it gave you more angle? Or no?
If your looking for a serious angle kit check out FDF fab! made in canada and some of the best quality stuff out there, made in belleville so you could pick it up haha
why didn't you put a nut down the threads before cutting? when you thread it back off, it'll straighten out any threads that might've gotten bent or damaged during cutting.
@@samthenerf true, but it's pretty easy to figure out. Just need to measure the length of the torque wrench vs length with the crows foot on. The difference shouldn't be more than a ft/lb or two
You should have put the jamb nut on the tie rod before you cut it, that way if the threads get screwed up from cutting, the nut will chase the threads back out when you remove it. You got lucky you didn't have an issue.
ok, so the SPL upgrade for miatas has a thread in spacer plus turnbuckles to adjust angle. why hasnt anyone except wisefab created the same type of solution? the spacer has factory threads, plus a boss for the tie rods to maintain close to factory thread engagement...
Do you know if these parts, the toe rods as well as the spacer, will fit the G35 sedan? I’m gonna assume it will. But I just want to make sure because on Enjuku’s website, the g35 isn’t listed on the figment table for the spacer. Please reply!! Thank you!! 😊
For those of you, who want to do the same mod on a real budget, get yourself some DIN988 shim washers with suitable diameters stacked up to the same thickness as the spacers in the video for probably a couple of dollars maximum and keep the tie-rods you have if they´re still in good condition. There should be plenty of thread left to adjust that little of a difference. For example: on BMW E36/46 rack I use DIN988 M18 1mm and 1.5mm thickness shim washers to add 5mm "spacer" to each side of the rack.
The tie rod is nothing but an extension of the motion of the rack. Without changing pivot points, I just don't see how it could possibly add more steering angle. It looks like you just added more toe out...
@@lb9gta307 exactly. if he'd measured the angles at the steering wheel we'd see that it gets to move a little more now too. the beauty of this approach is it maintains all the stock steering geometry. only downside is nuking the rack when it's at full lock and getting force fed blazing hot ps fluid from a pump spinning at 8k. big ass power steering cooler might be a good idea. and an underdrive crank pulley to slow the accessories down.
This mod is up there with cutting the bottom off a blanket to sew it on top to make it longer. The car is only so wide making the tie rods longer will only alter the toe in or out. If this mod does anything it is the spacer increasing the travel of the rack stop to stop, it will only work if the rack has enough travel before running out of gear tracks. To save your self time money and heart ache remove the inner tie rods and measure the rack travel lock to lock before doing any mods as the rack in your vehicle may not have the extra travel needed for this mod to work.
@@anomamos9095 The people that make the part have done it, you could pick pretty much any common drift car and find someone who has already done it, it's not complex or hard to do and I don't know of any car you would use for drifting that it doesn't work, I think it's fine to trust people on the internet who say it works.
DriftNick . Getting the right part when you order it is a good thing but it only works when it is the right part.There a lot of people on the Internet who actually know what they are talking about and you can follow their advice, to a point that is. And that point is the difference between what you actually have to work with and what the internet says you have and they can be the same or almost the same to the point where you can fail dreadfully. The old saying measure twice cut once always applies even when the internet tells you there is no need.
Tip of the day: When cutting something with threads, like the tie rod - Put a nut on it before, so you can use the nut to "clean up" any threads if you messed them up by cutting.
Actually came here to say that and it was the first comment I read 👍
Or learn how to clean threads with a file
I use a die. Thread on the die to the spot you plan to cut. Chuck the bolt in a vice so that the die is touching the jaws. Use the flat face of the die get a square cut with a hacksaw.
when real mechanics comment
That will be a good trick in the field. I think it will works great when cutting especially fine(r) thread. Thanks.
I would be careful running with no steering stops. It puts extra wear on the rack when you hit full lock a little hard. Just cut the bolt portion in half that sits in the LCA.
You mean the steering stop bolt? Also what’s the worse case scenario if you remove them and you hit full lock to hard? I have mine removed and have been drifting without them for I’d say a month so far.
@@350zKiller Yeah the steering stop bolt. Worst case you wear out the rack seals faster, your rack will be fine. Rack rebuild kits are cheap though. I just sacrificed the extra 1 or 2 degrees of angle to put less stress on the rack.
@@jake77515 what happens though if it goes out like will my car pull or anything to one side or is it just that I’ll leak fluid? Just curious as I don’t want my rack to fail and cause me to crash if that’s possible.
@@350zKiller It will just leak that's it, will still work fine while you are in drift. Honestly it will be fine for a while. You'll know when it's getting too low on fluid, the pump will start yelling at you. Just top it off with ATF and keep drifting.
@@jake77515 okay thank you bro, just wanted to make sure nothing weird would happen especially because this is one of my dream cars and my first drift car so I’m trying to take good care of it!
We had an incident.. one guy removed the stopper nut and while he drifting the right front hub came out. Thats why i dont recommend drifting the car allot without the stopper or a proper angle kit
The common issue with adding angle without modifying the Ackerman, no matter how much angle you add you will end up spinning out as soon as you approach the stock angle. The follow wheel acts like an anchor because it get less and less relative angle as you add steering lock
If you drive the car as if it still has stock angle, but still knowing you have a little extra, you wouldn’t spin out. Or course small cheap mods do not change the suspension geometry whatsoever but an extra 10* of angle can definitely save you from macking some curbs or spinning for the most part.
Finally, more Z content! If you guys can find a g37 (manual) differential to swap out you may like the extra torque.
You already got the tie rods from GK! Go get the bolt-on angle and outer tie rods from them to! Always a fan of your videos
stephen johnstone will having both give you more angle
@@hellabroketuning7330 GK Tech claims 60 degrees of angle with their bolt-on affordable kit. So that's another 10 degrees in addition to what they measured in this video at 50 degrees of angle. Definitely worth the $200 bucks GK Tech offers that kit at!
@@sjohnstone11 if only it was available....
I do HVAC and believe it or not they actually have a torque crescent wrench for tightening flare nuts in our field of work
Great idea with the tape on the garage floor for comparison.
Hey those are Zestino tires! I love the 07R!
Might be worth checking out Taylor Ray's channel. He just had a Canadian company install their pretty impressive looking angle kit on his 350z
Very interesting video. I have a dodge ram 1500. No not a drift truck. But I would be nice to be able to have a smaller turning circle with that big truck.
Compared to a lot of cars, 40 degrees stock is pretty damn good honestly. I think we all have been desensitized by crazy wisefab numbers
Next time thread the nut on then cut that way you can back the nut off and it will straighten and clean the threads after the cut.Makes life easier if you accidentally booger up the end when cutting.
Was just about to leave the same comment
Awesome!! Good to know about those tie rods! Did the 20mm spacer mess with your guys measurements?? Like makes it seem like it gave you more angle? Or no?
hum extra angle - maxima ones work a treat...
Which bumper is that??? Installing angle kit this weekend. Need a bumper with a splitter....
If your looking for a serious angle kit check out FDF fab! made in canada and some of the best quality stuff out there, made in belleville so you could pick it up haha
Also Australia represent! Woo gktech!
Hello there.. Amazing videos. Could you please name all those replacements? I'll do it!
dont forget to add the blue or red loctite on those threads to the rack, or make it a habit to check that when servicing the car
Smashed it ten times!!
Will see more angle with a hyme joint style outer
master-craft Adjustable wrench! i got the same one :)
why didn't you put a nut down the threads before cutting? when you thread it back off, it'll straighten out any threads that might've gotten bent or damaged during cutting.
with all of that steering angle, what modifications were made to prevent rubbing in the wheel well?😕 thanks guys
Use a crows foot on a torque wrench to get it to proper torque spec. With that said, just tighten it down and send it.
You do also have to compensate for the extra leverage.
@@samthenerf true, but it's pretty easy to figure out. Just need to measure the length of the torque wrench vs length with the crows foot on. The difference shouldn't be more than a ft/lb or two
@@samthenerf Unless you put the torque wrench 90 degrees from crows foot.
quality video as always guys
You should have put the jamb nut on the tie rod before you cut it, that way if the threads get screwed up from cutting, the nut will chase the threads back out when you remove it. You got lucky you didn't have an issue.
ok, so the SPL upgrade for miatas has a thread in spacer plus turnbuckles to adjust angle. why hasnt anyone except wisefab created the same type of solution? the spacer has factory threads, plus a boss for the tie rods to maintain close to factory thread engagement...
Did you look into removing the lock outs inside the rack first?
Do you know if these parts, the toe rods as well as the spacer, will fit the G35 sedan?
I’m gonna assume it will. But I just want to make sure because on Enjuku’s website, the g35 isn’t listed on the figment table for the spacer.
Please reply!! Thank you!! 😊
Yes everything is the same on the g35 and 350z chassis
What's the thread pitch of the stock angle stop?
Ok so if you fo this to both sides wouldn't the front tow be way to far in?
Poke up front? Have you seen Ryan Tuerck's car?
Dp, we still use protractors, it isn’t before our time!!
The torque tool is called a crow's foot. But there's not a lot of times they're necessary so it's hard to justify buying a set.
Second that put the nut on first 😊
For those of you, who want to do the same mod on a real budget, get yourself some DIN988 shim washers with suitable diameters stacked up to the same thickness as the spacers in the video for probably a couple of dollars maximum and keep the tie-rods you have if they´re still in good condition. There should be plenty of thread left to adjust that little of a difference.
For example: on BMW E36/46 rack I use DIN988 M18 1mm and 1.5mm thickness shim washers to add 5mm "spacer" to each side of the rack.
Nice!!
nice coer
What happened to the s14?
TQ spec: 4x Ughs
The tie rod is nothing but an extension of the motion of the rack.
Without changing pivot points, I just don't see how it could possibly add more steering angle.
It looks like you just added more toe out...
That spacer they slipped on to the inner tie rod allows the rack to travel farther
@@lb9gta307 exactly. if he'd measured the angles at the steering wheel we'd see that it gets to move a little more now too. the beauty of this approach is it maintains all the stock steering geometry. only downside is nuking the rack when it's at full lock and getting force fed blazing hot ps fluid from a pump spinning at 8k. big ass power steering cooler might be a good idea. and an underdrive crank pulley to slow the accessories down.
Glad you left in the Oops moment with the bellow boot.
Just zero out the rear camber and chuck some 205 on the back with luck 60 psi in them
Hows a Spec stage 3 on a street car? Looking at one for my boosted e30
from what i researched the stage 3 is very street friendly, at least for a miata. the 3+ and 4/5 is when things get a little more aggressive.
@@VS666 thats awesome. I have been looking at clutch kits that utilize the 6 puck from Clutch Masters. But dang $600 is all i find for one.
Been very good so far. If you rev it a little more than usual there is zero chatter. Drove the m3 and Id say its more than fine for the street.
This mod is up there with cutting the bottom off a blanket to sew it on top to make it longer.
The car is only so wide making the tie rods longer will only alter the toe in or out. If this mod does anything it is the spacer increasing the travel of the rack stop to stop, it will only work if the rack has enough travel before running out of gear tracks.
To save your self time money and heart ache remove the inner tie rods and measure the rack travel lock to lock before doing any mods as the rack in your vehicle may not have the extra travel needed for this mod to work.
Nissan racks have a bunch of extra travel, also looking it up on the internet is much easier then removing the inner tie rods to check the travel lol.
DriftNick . Not everyone has a Nissan. Never trust the internet. Auto makers swap between suppliers and designs all the time.
@@d1specdrifter Actually I meant the, the re was a typo
@@anomamos9095 The people that make the part have done it, you could pick pretty much any common drift car and find someone who has already done it, it's not complex or hard to do and I don't know of any car you would use for drifting that it doesn't work, I think it's fine to trust people on the internet who say it works.
DriftNick . Getting the right part when you order it is a good thing but it only works when it is the right part.There a lot of people on the Internet who actually know what they are talking about and you can follow their advice, to a point that is. And that point is the difference between what you actually have to work with and what the internet says you have and they can be the same or almost the same to the point where you can fail dreadfully. The old saying measure twice cut once always applies even when the internet tells you there is no need.
Yesss
shout out to @AdamLZ
Nicceee
They don't use protractors any more? Hey Dave you watch Adam LZ, but not Taylor Ray? C'mon man lol
That LZ plug LOL
$10 for spacers? What kind of spacers you buying???
Lol not wheel spacers but rack spacers!
Speed Academy haha makes more sense
That is just a grinder, not a die grinder.
You have a safety wire tool? In my day we called those plyers. Although Im only 34.. come on guys
Zeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeed
Rip headphone users 6:15
They should also be more durable
i dont see how that would help
In my defense I never really drifted the car proper, just hot laps. My balls won't recover for a while...
10$ wheel spacers... RIP..
Your first mistake was thinking Adam lz has any idea about what he's taking about.
The spacers are useless. How does moving the joint out an 8th make any logic.. Please stop
Spacers don't add steering angle, they change where bump-steer occurs. Trash.