That's actually a pretty good method, save cutting in the roof less dangerous, less dist on the roof tiles, and noc chance of hitting the valley or lead
@@conormac2010 I’m now looking for a suitable diamond blade for my old Elu mitre saw. Brilliant saw and reluctant to sell it for pennies. It’s a 216mm with a 30mm bore though and the closest diamond blade size can find is 200/27.5. I hate cutting blocks and tile with a disc cutter. Dusty, unbalanced and naff. I had a wet saw with a rolling tray for a while. The thing weighed a tonne and flicked slurry over everything but cut well. Mitre saw is worth a try.
@@rollovaughan since then, I have now set up a leave blower on a foot pedal switch, with a 6 meter hose, if I'm doing alot of cutting I put the hose beside blade that it's not in the stand on pedal it starts blower it socks almost all of the dust away and at the other end the blower is into a barrel of water, when you take your foot of the pedal it stops the blower
@@conormac2010 so the barrel of water is acting like an old “oil scrubber” air filter on the old diesels? Friggin genius if I’m understanding that correctly. I have a cyclone separator I put before my dust extractor and the on/off is a radio key for a garage door off eBay. Everything we do crests dust so almost every tool I have with a trigger on it has a dust port with a tonne of gaffer tape and a hose attached.
@@rollovaughan I have an industrial hoover it does get most of the dust, but a fair amount still goes to the air, so I tried the leave blower and it works well, yes the water scrubs the dust, my mother has developed a lung disease, so over the last year or 2 I've really been think about how to reduce dust, as your lungs aren't ment to breathing in such toxic things,
At 9:40 you can see the small tile cut required to finish that particular row.....how did you do yours in regard to their being insufficient batten for a solid fixing? The reason I ask is that I've not long finished helping a mate with his roof and we had to use a grab adhesive to glue those small cuts to the adjacent tile as, in several instances, clips were either useless or left me worrying they wouldn't hold......that reminds me.....where do you get your clips as, jeez, they're crazy expensive?
I don't use the clips never seem to be able to sourcethem, I use tec 7 and stick a small off cut of tile to the underside of the cut tile on the valle, I also put tec 7 on the tounge of the tile and stick it to the other tile. I find that if you design we t a good tight cut to the dry valley the small cut pice has nowhere to slide so when the ct1 sets it'll no be going anywhere, I've been doing like this since 2014 and haven't had any issues.
I manage to get the clips just fine from the roofing merchants. I wouldn’t be without them or those small cuts on the left hand side of the valley just drop away. They’re not cheap coz they’re stainless steal but u probably only need a few on each valley so a pack lasts ages. A tip is to keep that felt cut back from the Cente of the valley or else it’ll get wet, rot and draw moisture back up the felt into the roof space. I’ve repaired valleys that have been done like that a few times. I really don’t wanna be critical, just offering a useful tip. You need crow clips for the dry hip too. Great little things that hold ur cuts in place ready for the dry hip. Again, expensive. Furthermore I always use overbatten troughs rather than under batten. Personal preference only but I think they work better.
Totally agree about the saw, to be honest I have 3 of them and the only purpose they where but for was to cut waste timber for the fire, I also learned while doing this that the cut is a repeat pattern, on this roof ever 5 tiles goes back to the first cut so you could cut them all without going on the roof after you done you fist 5 tiles
😂 mine is for fire wood too! I've got 6 dormers on our home build at the moment and a big gable end. Similar tile too German planum crest. A lot of cutting but at least the valleys are the same so I've got a pattern. I bought an 18v DeWalt 5" grinder with a decent blade and take it up with me, works a treat for any alterations. 👍
Just watched the upload of your house for sale. Had to comment here though. Brilliant work from a master. I’d love to work for you but alas, I’m too far away. Perhaps you wouldn’t mind mentoring me on my next project?
Thank you you are kind,, I wouldn't claim to be an expert, But of there is anything I could do to help, I would try my best to do so. Myself and my wife have got our own site, hopefully we will be in possession of it in around 4 weeks, it will be a long process, but as I will be focusing on it, we will be taking alot more time on videos trying to make them more interesting informative and hopefully entertaining, it is in a beautiful location with stunning views , we are planning on doing a b and b and garden pods for rent with sauna and hottubs, we have to reapply for planning as the current planning house type does not suit our needs, but we will be starting with a timberframe pod for our family to live in while waiting on planning, we will also be starting the sauna when we move onto the property
what roof tiles are these and which manufacturer makes them? do they have a thin leading edge? Is it the same company that makes the continuous dry verge system? Thanks
It all depends if you set the dry valley perfectly in the center of the valley and the 2 roof pitches are the same it normally works out the same as the roof pitch, if the the roofs are a different pitch you'd add or minus the angel difference, if the smaller roof is higher in pitch youd minus the angle difference, if otts lower in pitch youd add the angle difference, doess that make sense? So if pitch is 40 degrees on both its 40 if its a 40 main roof 30 adjoined roof it would be 50° cut on main roof, bit a sliding bevel would work OK also
@@Barkingtoad1 the manufacturer of these valleys don't have a cap but I sourced one on ebay, its worked OK but wasn't a perfect fut, but I made sure that no water could get in with the roofing membrane, and the rubber dry valley cap does a good job just wasn't a perfect fit as made for a slightly different profile but when tiled it looks very good, I was pretty happy with the way it turned out, it was £70 quid for the 2 caps, well worth it, I've used lead in the past with works quite well bit takes a bit of work, and I've seen most of the time roofers just usually put a bit of edpm rubber from the tile above down and under the ride of the adjoing roof but it doesn't look the best
Na mate, do e it myself had 2400 tiles, dry verges dry valleys on and cut in ridge on in 5 days by myself, I didn't think I did to bad, plus if your roof set out right the cuts are a repeat pattern so you only have to measure once was the first 4 cuts in this case then repeat the 4 cuts the same,
why dont you just cut the first tile and the last one move them over a tile then strike a line cut through them then push them back over a tile its way faster
Usually do it that way, was on my own coudnt get tiles over to valley and had to run across the scaffolding to get tiles, plus ran out of 2 stroke, had the miter saw there from cutting stone cladding, so it got the job done
The tile cuttings are supported from below the next tile above is covering it on top, the tile sits against the upstand of the valley, how is it possible that it would ever move,
@@neilogden7506 it's the truth I do one of new builds, do everything myself, to do a 2400sqft house, usually takes 5 months from start to finnish that includes me doing grounds works foundation building piping blockwork my own timberframes on site insulation timberframe roof boarding, drylining, painting 2nd fix carpentry, the wiring and plumbing is subbed out not that I can't do,, just do not want the hassle of having to worry about a leak or loose electric connections, my dad does the digger work outside and I do everything else, have a mate who gives me a hand when he can, was able to get him for 3 months on current build, completion video will be going live in mid January, proof is in the videos on channel, they are terrible videos but with the work load to be done its impossible to take the time to make quality videos, next new build is hopefully my own, so hoping to take the time to to do propper videos,
Nice work mate rmebee youll always get haters 👍
That's actually a pretty good method, save cutting in the roof less dangerous, less dist on the roof tiles, and noc chance of hitting the valley or lead
I'm usually by myself so it leaves it easier for me
@@conormac2010 I’m now looking for a suitable diamond blade for my old Elu mitre saw.
Brilliant saw and reluctant to sell it for pennies.
It’s a 216mm with a 30mm bore though and the closest diamond blade size can find is 200/27.5.
I hate cutting blocks and tile with a disc cutter. Dusty, unbalanced and naff.
I had a wet saw with a rolling tray for a while. The thing weighed a tonne and flicked slurry over everything but cut well.
Mitre saw is worth a try.
@@rollovaughan since then, I have now set up a leave blower on a foot pedal switch, with a 6 meter hose, if I'm doing alot of cutting I put the hose beside blade that it's not in the stand on pedal it starts blower it socks almost all of the dust away and at the other end the blower is into a barrel of water, when you take your foot of the pedal it stops the blower
@@conormac2010 so the barrel of water is acting like an old “oil scrubber” air filter on the old diesels?
Friggin genius if I’m understanding that correctly.
I have a cyclone separator I put before my dust extractor and the on/off is a radio key for a garage door off eBay.
Everything we do crests dust so almost every tool I have with a trigger on it has a dust port with a tonne of gaffer tape and a hose attached.
@@rollovaughan I have an industrial hoover it does get most of the dust, but a fair amount still goes to the air, so I tried the leave blower and it works well, yes the water scrubs the dust, my mother has developed a lung disease, so over the last year or 2 I've really been think about how to reduce dust, as your lungs aren't ment to breathing in such toxic things,
At 9:40 you can see the small tile cut required to finish that particular row.....how did you do yours in regard to their being insufficient batten for a solid fixing? The reason I ask is that I've not long finished helping a mate with his roof and we had to use a grab adhesive to glue those small cuts to the adjacent tile as, in several instances, clips were either useless or left me worrying they wouldn't hold......that reminds me.....where do you get your clips as, jeez, they're crazy expensive?
I don't use the clips never seem to be able to sourcethem, I use tec 7 and stick a small off cut of tile to the underside of the cut tile on the valle, I also put tec 7 on the tounge of the tile and stick it to the other tile. I find that if you design we t a good tight cut to the dry valley the small cut pice has nowhere to slide so when the ct1 sets it'll no be going anywhere, I've been doing like this since 2014 and haven't had any issues.
I manage to get
the clips just fine from the roofing merchants. I wouldn’t be without them or those small cuts on the left hand side of the valley just drop away. They’re not cheap coz they’re stainless steal but u probably only need a few on each valley so a pack lasts ages. A tip is to keep that felt cut back from the Cente of the valley or else it’ll get wet, rot and draw moisture back up the felt into the roof space. I’ve repaired valleys that have been done like that a few times. I really don’t wanna be critical, just offering a useful tip. You need crow clips for the dry hip too. Great little things that hold ur cuts in place ready for the dry hip. Again, expensive. Furthermore I always use overbatten troughs rather than under batten. Personal preference only but I think they work better.
Nice idea and About all those saws are good for👍
Totally agree about the saw, to be honest I have 3 of them and the only purpose they where but for was to cut waste timber for the fire, I also learned while doing this that the cut is a repeat pattern, on this roof ever 5 tiles goes back to the first cut so you could cut them all without going on the roof after you done you fist 5 tiles
😂 mine is for fire wood too! I've got 6 dormers on our home build at the moment and a big gable end. Similar tile too German planum crest. A lot of cutting but at least the valleys are the same so I've got a pattern. I bought an 18v DeWalt 5" grinder with a decent blade and take it up with me, works a treat for any alterations. 👍
Just watched the upload of your house for sale.
Had to comment here though. Brilliant work from a master. I’d love to work for you but alas, I’m too far away.
Perhaps you wouldn’t mind mentoring me on my next project?
Thank you you are kind,, I wouldn't claim to be an expert, But of there is anything I could do to help, I would try my best to do so. Myself and my wife have got our own site, hopefully we will be in possession of it in around 4 weeks, it will be a long process, but as I will be focusing on it, we will be taking alot more time on videos trying to make them more interesting informative and hopefully entertaining, it is in a beautiful location with stunning views , we are planning on doing a b and b and garden pods for rent with sauna and hottubs, we have to reapply for planning as the current planning house type does not suit our needs, but we will be starting with a timberframe pod for our family to live in while waiting on planning, we will also be starting the sauna when we move onto the property
what roof tiles are these and which manufacturer makes them? do they have a thin leading edge? Is it the same company that makes the continuous dry verge system? Thanks
These are breedon flat western yea same company,
where dis you get the saw and what blade you use
It's a evolution rage song and an erbauer tile cutting blade
Yes suppose it's pros and cons
What blade you using m8
Got in screwfix, erberu
There's a lot quicke4 ways
How do you get the angle of the valley for the saw?
With a sliding bevel.
How do you dress the top of the valley
It all depends if you set the dry valley perfectly in the center of the valley and the 2 roof pitches are the same it normally works out the same as the roof pitch, if the the roofs are a different pitch you'd add or minus the angel difference, if the smaller roof is higher in pitch youd minus the angle difference, if otts lower in pitch youd add the angle difference, doess that make sense? So if pitch is 40 degrees on both its 40 if its a 40 main roof 30 adjoined roof it would be 50° cut on main roof, bit a sliding bevel would work OK also
@@Barkingtoad1 the manufacturer of these valleys don't have a cap but I sourced one on ebay, its worked OK but wasn't a perfect fut, but I made sure that no water could get in with the roofing membrane, and the rubber dry valley cap does a good job just wasn't a perfect fit as made for a slightly different profile but when tiled it looks very good, I was pretty happy with the way it turned out, it was £70 quid for the 2 caps, well worth it, I've used lead in the past with works quite well bit takes a bit of work, and I've seen most of the time roofers just usually put a bit of edpm rubber from the tile above down and under the ride of the adjoing roof but it doesn't look the best
Yea it’s ok if your not on price
Tìles sticking up second course
I’d say the roof took years to complete
Na mate, do e it myself had 2400 tiles, dry verges dry valleys on and cut in ridge on in 5 days by myself, I didn't think I did to bad, plus if your roof set out right the cuts are a repeat pattern so you only have to measure once was the first 4 cuts in this case then repeat the 4 cuts the same,
why dont you just cut the first tile and the last one move them over a tile then strike a line cut through them then push them back over a tile its way faster
Usually do it that way, was on my own coudnt get tiles over to valley and had to run across the scaffolding to get tiles, plus ran out of 2 stroke, had the miter saw there from cutting stone cladding, so it got the job done
@@conormac2010 fair enough pal its a proper slug on your own aint it
@@Milltown_dingle yea, you get sick of it, especially when you get to the ridge and realize you forgot something on the ground 😆🤣
😂yeh its a nightmare soon wrecks your body
Where are your valley tile clips instead of using cheap silicone ? No silicone manufacturer guarantees there products for more than 7 years.
The tile cuttings are supported from below the next tile above is covering it on top, the tile sits against the upstand of the valley, how is it possible that it would ever move,
Will definitely leak
Don't think
Don't think so
Bad nob
Bad job
If you say so
How slow are you guys definitely on day rate hahaha
Lol
Did that roof solo in 2.5 days valleys skylights ridges and verges, 2470 tiles think I did ok lol
Not a chance by yourself hahaha 😆
@@neilogden7506 it's the truth I do one of new builds, do everything myself, to do a 2400sqft house, usually takes 5 months from start to finnish that includes me doing grounds works foundation building piping blockwork my own timberframes on site insulation timberframe roof boarding, drylining, painting 2nd fix carpentry, the wiring and plumbing is subbed out not that I can't do,, just do not want the hassle of having to worry about a leak or loose electric connections, my dad does the digger work outside and I do everything else, have a mate who gives me a hand when he can, was able to get him for 3 months on current build, completion video will be going live in mid January, proof is in the videos on channel, they are terrible videos but with the work load to be done its impossible to take the time to make quality videos, next new build is hopefully my own, so hoping to take the time to to do propper videos,
Aren't u supposed to nail every tile