These valleys have there good points. Dry valley, Dry Ridge, dry verge = good in my book. No Mortar No Moss. Lead work still needed if eaves course are tilted (as they should be) as pitch angle differs, its no problem, a lead section of valley at eaves is still required, approx 750 mm in length careful cutting and abutment of grp needed at change of pitch. Lead is king agreed but some( not all )joiners today struggle to get the boarding right to support it. Besides when a dry valley is done right and tile cut abutments are true they are great looking and most of the water runs down the tile and not into the valley!! Great thinking.
Question, I have a dry bonding tray that meets an open grp cemented valley. My roofer have told me because of this they need to leave the width of the dry bonding tray incemented where it meets the valley which is approximately 25cm gap under the valley tiles. But he is confident this will remain 100% water tight...? Advice on this please...
Usually wen using these valleys cos they sit straight on valley board or rafters they won’t sail over the fascia kick so u bring it bk inside fascia and av to put saddle at bottom
I was always taught to use lead at the bottom off the valley and dress it so there was almost a flat spot to slow down the water before it goes into the gutter ! I love the man with the glasses at the back who helps him put the valley in place 🤣 we all have one off them floating around in real life!! Yes I hate these valleys and can see all the issues that might happen .... but with not having to wait fir dry days in the winter I'm getting jobs done ! Where in past have waited for weeks for good weather ..
no the valley board is like 15-20mm tile batten 25mm slightly higher sometimes you might have to shave the back of the tile with a stihl saw so it sits
This stuff really is a gimmick, theres zero advantage to using it over lead, maybe a fraction cheaper but not near as good,you still need lead using this stuff anyway. These companies would try to sell you any stupid idea nowadays
These valleys have there good points. Dry valley, Dry Ridge, dry verge = good in my book. No Mortar No Moss. Lead work still needed if eaves course are tilted (as they should be) as pitch angle differs, its no problem, a lead section of valley at eaves is still required, approx 750 mm in length careful cutting and abutment of grp needed at change of pitch. Lead is king agreed but some( not all )joiners today struggle to get the boarding right to support it. Besides when a dry valley is done right and tile cut abutments are true they are great looking and most of the water runs down the tile and not into the valley!! Great thinking.
Question, I have a dry bonding tray that meets an open grp cemented valley. My roofer have told me because of this they need to leave the width of the dry bonding tray incemented where it meets the valley which is approximately 25cm gap under the valley tiles. But he is confident this will remain 100% water tight...? Advice on this please...
What about the very top of the valley?
How do you cover the joint on top between the left hand valley and right hand valley
Wakaflex 😉
whole system is shite
Lead saddle
Them laths will b an inch higher than the rest at the valley . How will the tile sit flat . ?????
get your mum to sit on it
Usually wen using these valleys cos they sit straight on valley board or rafters they won’t sail over the fascia kick so u bring it bk inside fascia and av to put saddle at bottom
rubbish system this but could always trim top of fascia out a bit 😉
I was always taught to use lead at the bottom off the valley and dress it so there was almost a flat spot to slow down the water before it goes into the gutter ! I love the man with the glasses at the back who helps him put the valley in place 🤣 we all have one off them floating around in real life!! Yes I hate these valleys and can see all the issues that might happen .... but with not having to wait fir dry days in the winter I'm getting jobs done ! Where in past have waited for weeks for good weather ..
@@rickphillips5098is this because you don't have to mortar the sides of the tiles because the gaps are closed with the trays?
Does the solid valley support not kick up the tile battens, as I noticed that it was sitting directly on the joists, just as the tile battens are?
no the valley board is like 15-20mm tile batten 25mm slightly higher sometimes you might have to shave the back of the tile with a stihl saw so it sits
Be hand if some of these questions was answered?? thanks in advance
Why he fixt the battens before he put the valey
?
How do you clear out the moss and silt from the gully under those tiles after a few years ? I don't understand this system.
Its rubbish
As a DIY I know I should even think to do it myself but I can help myself... LOL
Can you use this type of valley for a slate roof?
Ripper36068 not really, google slate valley
Dangerous Memes yes u can
dont bother just use lead no better method time served proven installed right you will never have a problem again
What s rough fucking job !
It did look rough 👍
Red chalk no good on a roof John
rough job that wow hahaha
Why clip the cuts when they can't go anywhere 😂
Do it properly in lead the first time
This stuff really is a gimmick, theres zero advantage to using it over lead, maybe a fraction cheaper but not near as good,you still need lead using this stuff anyway. These companies would try to sell you any stupid idea nowadays