Unless the music was intended to cover up any swearing, you can do without it. Otherwise, you have the best video on UA-cam regarding this sterring problem. Very in detail. Now I'm ready to tackle mine. Thanks a bunch!!
Once you connect the intermediate shaft to the steering wheel and the steering box, put in the two bolts and then turn the steering wheel 90 degrees to expose the threaded end of the bolt under the steering wheel. Then you can use a ratchet to tighten the nut under the steering column.
Perfectly laid out video explaining how to replace these parts! The Drive By Wire trucks will need the pedal mounting bracket removed to get the shaft out. It's just 5, 10mm headed bolts and once out of the way it makes quick work of getting the shaft out. This job was
If you want to make this job as painless as possible, remove the driver's seat (two bolts, two nuts, one conenctor), and then remove the accelerator pedal (2 - 12MM and 3 10MM, one connector). This gives you all the room you need to remove the old steering column bearing and install a new one. Lay a blanket down over where the seat goes for extra comfort.
Best video on replacing these parts. I just changed my steering wheel bearing and the shaft. Everything went in like butter. For the steering wheel bearing I lubed the hell out of it with silicone paste commonly used to lube o rings. Went in easy, though I still wrestled it for about 10 mins. After that was installed, I then lubed the female portion of the bottom shaft with red grease I use on my tractor and the new intermediate shaft went in even easier. II did have my front seat taken off and gas pedal unscrewed and out of the way on my 2004 Silverado 1500. This made things a whole lot easier. Overall, i spent about 20 mins not counting the time it took me to remove the front seat. Thanks for an awesome video👍🏻👍🏻
I fixed my rattling noise with a zip tie. I have the original white plastic part. It was rattling inside the metal tube so I zip tied it to the bracket right next to it. The constant tension stopped the noise!
If your working on a duramax, take the inner plastic wheel well out and it’ll expose the steering shaft from the side. The plumbing for the turbo and stuff are in the way if you try tackling it from above.
Thanks for the overview. However, you made this repair more complicated than necessary. Tip: turn the wheel to where both the fasteners are easily accessed, loosen until finger tight, and then turn the wheel straight and lock in place. No need to wrestle with obstructions on initial fastener loosening. I was able to do complete repair in half hour.
While installing the new bearing, if you put a long bolt thru the steering shaft hole that holds the intermediate shaft in place you can pry against that and the bearing will slide right into place.
FYI, If you align the steering wheel turned 90 from straight to begin with, so that the bolts at the upper and lower connections are accessible vertically, then hold it there firmly with your seat belt, you don't have to fuss with a wrench and can remove / replace the bolts more easily using a ratchet and socket.
Two things I feel would be helpful if you have someone to lend you a hand. Instead of placing the steering wheel in the centered position when removing the bolt and nut under the dash, turn the wheel 90 degrees. this lets you access the nut using a socket wrench for both removal and install. It also makes it a whole lot easier to reinstall the nut. Remove the three nuts that hold the upper steering shaft boot and remove the boot and the shaft through the engine compartment. This gives you easy access to the bearing assembly when attempting to reinstall it. Once you slide the assembly in as far as possible by hand, use a 18" piece of 1/2" wood doweling and a rubber hammer to tape the bearing assembly in. One person holds the dowel and does the tapping while the other holds the assembly in its correct position and moves the dowel around the housing between taps.
Yo. Thanks for making this vid. I did this repair last night and it was easy after watching you. Undo the connection in the engine compartment first. Then turn the wheel 90 degrees to remove the nut in the passenger compartment.
Thanks for the video. Just changed the Dorman shaft on my 2002 Tahoe. All went without any problem. I was expecting problem with inserting the new shaft into the lower shaft but with the help of my friend I managed to do that pretty easy. The only thing is that I do not have the Torque wrench, so I hand tightened it and will ask my fellow mechanic to tighten it asap. Cheers!
Thanks! Your video made this simple. I used a 1" closed end wrench as Gary Moore had suggested to seat the bearing, that also worked amazing! Thanks to you both.
For those with Duramax trucks there is a boost pipe that makes it tougher from under the hood. Mine is lifted and I pulled out the fender well and access was SILLY easy
Thanks for the video, very detailed and professional. I changed the bearing in my 2003 Z71 Chevy Tahoe after watching the video and the clocking sound is gone, thanks .
Every video I see, you guys just leisurely push that intermediate shaft out of the way. Not me. Mine wouldn't budge. Holy carp is it a pita if it doesn't easily move.
This is a great video I'm going to replace my intermediate steering shaft in my 2000 GMC Savana van 3500 I've done plenty intermediate shafts but this was well video was will explain and give me ideas on how I can take care of my repair a quicker way thanks again
Great directions. Performed this job on a 2006 Silverado. The only thing is that I could not get the new sleave with the bearings on so I put the new bearings into the old sleeve and it slipped on perfectly. The clunk is gone. thanks great video
*First Thing* to do when working underneath the dash is fold a strip of Gorilla Tape over the razor sharp edges on any brackets you have to work up against!!! Thanks For The Video!
Just a note, the shaft you removed is actually the upgraded Borgeson (sp?). Blue bushing/bearing is the OEM. So someone did the service you did earlier and used the upgraded steering shaft but some no-name bearing. So you upgraded the bearing and downgraded the steering shaft (but the U-joint on the steering shaft looks 100% the same on upgraded and new). BTW, your video saved me easily an hour of struggling to get it all apart. Thank you for posting.
@@GR-uk5ou The issue is with the shaft. When he does a side by side comparison, the old shaft has a tube isolator whereas the new shady is a solid u-joint (no isolation). He explains how there's some play when he rotates only the shaft. This means that the rubber isolation has degraded and so now you have that loose steering feel. Isolators are added to the steering system to reduce the road bumpiness feedback felt by the driver.
The bearing/ plastic bushing didn't look broken but it's still a good idea to replace it. When that breaks, you'll feel chucking on the steering column end.
Thank u so much for the vid just did mine on my 05 Tahoe it had the Stabilitrak steering wheel sensor right behind the green piece so I just kind of pryed it off with the bearing also and then when I put on the new bearing I cracked it a little bit so hopefully it doesn't make a big problem later on but all is well now steering is tight thanks again for the great video tutorial
watched this video today....great info. I going to be taking my seat out for other reasons and do the bearing then. Just have to figure out a way to hold the steering wheel with no seat belt!! Great video thanks!
Well done video, those are hard camera angles. I see a lot of people replace the shaft and the bearing. For me, I did just the bearing only and it took care of it for me. No more CLUNK! :-)
Before you do anything, take cover off top of steering column, where the red flasher button is, and then start the truck and turn the wheel until you see a T-25 torx head screw. Probably loose? Turn wheel other direction until you see another T-25 torx head screw. Mine were just about to fall out. It’s the tilt steering joint. Good luck.
some parts diagrams show that special bolt (with the sidewall to prevent turning) as a regular bolt. Other show the nut having that sidewall on it. Yet others, like mine, show a regular bolt and regular nut. So odd. Great video, thanx
After an hour of trying to put the Dorman piece in, I couldn't get it the last 3/4 inch. So I came up with a plan to use a deep socket (30mm) as a ram to press it on the rest of the way. I didn't need to use a hammer or anything else, just tap the part with the socket. If you do this, use a socket large enough that if is putting force on the outer rim of NEAR the bearing and not the bearing itself. Had it installed in a couple minutes.
My new shaft would not fit and my new steering bearing would not fit. I ended up honing the shaft at both ends to a glass finish(I have a knife sharpening business which helped) and even then it took great effort to get it on. The bearing would not go on at all, after an hour I put the old one back on to get the truck running. This job was on a 2007 Silverado Classic, Not much room under the dash.
Good video.I used a large wrench nut and a hammer, to get the bearing from the engine bay into the steering shaft, but you need a friend to hold the bearing from inside.
success, truck drives a hell of alot better. bearing wasnt such a pain in the ass this time. took about 15-20 min of swearing and i ended up cracking the plastic a tiny bit.
Should have loosened the inside bolt first with the nut facing down. Leaving the bolt intact. Then straighten out the wheel and loosen the outside bolt. That way you can use a ratchet and help prevent you from cutting yourself.
I just watched your video and I congratulate you it is what I was looking for. I have a question the nut by the bearing is torque as the one on the lower side at 35 ft-lb? thanks a lot for your really good explanation on this project. I hope I get a respond.
Nice work buddy. How long did this job take you? I have some slop in the steering on my 02 Tahoe 190K miles and recently changed my pitman and Idler arms, of course by referencing your video, it seemed to help a little. My next thing is going to be changing the inner and outer tie rods, if this does not get rid of the slop. This job, steering shaft and bushing, will be next on the list. Sure appreciate all the videos.
Thanks Bud - I appreciate the support and kind words! This job only took 30 to 45 minutes (not counting the extra time due to setting up the camera and such). Good luck with your tahoe!
First of all thank you very much for your video but one question I have is could you not reposition the steering wheel so the shaft nut under the dash would be easier accessible?
I just watched how you replaced the bearing for the steering shaft, and since you were there you adjusted the gear box, and so can you say WHY you had to do that ? please does that take away any lose movement on the steering wheel ? and is that to be done when the pitman bracket that connect to the ball joint underneath is replaced ? I will look for your reply on your next input. Thank you every thing else well explained
I posted the videos in reverse order of what you should do. First check the pitman arm and tie rods for looseness and wear. Then check the steering shaft and bearing, then tighten the steering box adjustment. I did all this becuse the steering was loose and sloppy.
Lol the tool to lock the steering shaft is only $11. FYI for safety the airbags should first be disabled and all shaft relationships should be marked when doing this type of job. Transfer the marks to the new parts before installing. Also, it is much easier if you remove either the firewall grommet or the accelerator pedal position sensor before reinstalling the shaft. Thanks for posting this video though.
DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER TO PRY THE BEARING BACK INTO THE STEERING COLUMN!!! I TRIED IT TWICE AND BOTH TIMES, THE PLASTIC HOUSING CRACKED BEFORE THE BEARING EVEN MOVED. I GREASED THE HOUSING AND DID IT EXACTLY AS HE EXPLAINED. THEY BOTH BROKE. IT TOOK ME AN EXTRA 2 DAYS TO FINISH THE JOB BECAUSE THE STORE HAD TO REORDER THE PART.
thank you for the video, can you tell me once these parts are replaced does it fail again? also how can you tell it has been replaced ? thanks in advance,
Mine didn't fail again but results may vary...I'm not sure how to tell if these have been replaced but if the parts are worn things will be loose and may make clunking noises
What could cause your steering wheel to be really loose and have a lot of play in it or it will cause it to move all the way up and all the way down all the way to the left and all the way to the right?????
old video... but you think this could me my problem? my steering wheel pulls back and wiggles forward and backwards upon acceleration.. every bump makes it jiggle too, feels like it's gonna fall in my lap
@@SevenFortyOne I can fix it.. im just trying to figure out what it could be.. it could be the upper shaft or intermediate. sometimes I can grab the shaft under the hood and wiggle it side to side.. but other times it'll be tight. that bearing on the intermediate shaft that you changed.. that I can grab and slide up and down
THANK YOU SevenFortyOne!!!!. I Have a Lifted 2006 LT 4X4 Cloth Seats Suburban for 6 Months and need this repair and some others too. Was 115.000 Miles on it. SOME REPAIRS WERE DONE. on may 2017 ( UPPER and LOWER ball joins ) ( Front and Rear Brakes Pads and Rotors Disc. ) ( Front Sway Bar Links.) (AC Belt Tensioner and belt ) ( SERPENTINE MOTOR BELT ) BELT TENSIONER PULLEY) ( IDLER PULLEY ) After the front work was done, I started hearing a noise. And at low speed the traction active letter ALERT come on it and the motor is not accelerate. I have to take my foot off the pedal and then accelerate again for the Traction Active letter turn off and for the motor to run normal. Not sure why this happens. please help me with this problem. THANK YOU AGAIN.
Thanks for the video, it helped me a lot. My problem is that the clunking comes back ofter just a few miles of driving... I first changed only the shaft, then when it came back I changed the bearing as well. Same thing happened. Anyone else experienced this? I've used dorman parts for shaft and bearing.
If you don't torque the bolts can it cause steering wheel play? I replaced the bearing, upper and lower shaft but didn't torque them and I've got steering wheel play.
Unless the music was intended to cover up any swearing, you can do without it. Otherwise, you have the best video on UA-cam regarding this sterring problem. Very in detail. Now I'm ready to tackle mine. Thanks a bunch!!
Once you connect the intermediate shaft to the steering wheel and the steering box, put in the two bolts and then turn the steering wheel 90 degrees to expose the threaded end of the bolt under the steering wheel. Then you can use a ratchet to tighten the nut under the steering column.
Perfectly laid out video explaining how to replace these parts! The Drive By Wire trucks will need the pedal mounting bracket removed to get the shaft out. It's just 5, 10mm headed bolts and once out of the way it makes quick work of getting the shaft out. This job was
If you want to make this job as painless as possible, remove the driver's seat (two bolts, two nuts, one conenctor), and then remove the accelerator pedal (2 - 12MM and 3 10MM, one connector). This gives you all the room you need to remove the old steering column bearing and install a new one. Lay a blanket down over where the seat goes for extra comfort.
Best video on replacing these parts. I just changed my steering wheel bearing and the shaft. Everything went in like butter. For the steering wheel bearing I lubed the hell out of it with silicone paste commonly used to lube o rings. Went in easy, though I still wrestled it for about 10 mins. After that was installed, I then lubed the female portion of the bottom shaft with red grease I use on my tractor and the new intermediate shaft went in even easier. II did have my front seat taken off and gas pedal unscrewed and out of the way on my 2004 Silverado 1500. This made things a whole lot easier. Overall, i spent about 20 mins not counting the time it took me to remove the front seat. Thanks for an awesome video👍🏻👍🏻
GM had a recall in those in 02 or 03. They just packed them with heavy grease instead of replacing it . Good video. thanks.
I fixed my rattling noise with a zip tie. I have the original white plastic part. It was rattling inside the metal tube so I zip tied it to the bracket right next to it. The constant tension stopped the noise!
Don't forget to unplug your battery and leave it for 15 minutes before you work on this part, You are Working really close to the airbag.
Nonsense, if you’re that worried just unplug both cables and hold the cables together for one minute
I’m about to do this on my 04 Yukon XL. This has been the best DIY video I’ve seen for this. If you still own this vehicle is the clunk still gone.
I sold it 2 years ago but upto that point it was quiet
Very helpful video man. I sprayed the crap out of that shaft with WD40 and the bearing was MUCH easier to put in
If your working on a duramax, take the inner plastic wheel well out and it’ll expose the steering shaft from the side. The plumbing for the turbo and stuff are in the way if you try tackling it from above.
Thanks for the overview. However, you made this repair more complicated than necessary. Tip: turn the wheel to where both the fasteners are easily accessed, loosen until finger tight, and then turn the wheel straight and lock in place. No need to wrestle with obstructions on initial fastener loosening. I was able to do complete repair in half hour.
Did mine on my 99 gmc Sierra what a difference. No more clunking, quite as could be...So happy with results..
How
While installing the new bearing, if you put a long bolt thru the steering shaft hole that holds the intermediate shaft in place you can pry against that and the bearing will slide right into place.
Great tip! Thanks!
Thanks for the information, I already learned a few tricks to make this job a lot easier by watching your video
FYI, If you align the steering wheel turned 90 from straight to begin with, so that the bolts at the upper and lower connections are accessible vertically, then hold it there firmly with your seat belt, you don't have to fuss with a wrench and can remove / replace the bolts more easily using a ratchet and socket.
Two things I feel would be helpful if you have someone to lend you a hand.
Instead of placing the steering wheel in the centered position when removing the bolt and nut under the dash, turn the wheel 90 degrees. this lets you access the nut using a socket wrench for both removal and install. It also makes it a whole lot easier to reinstall the nut.
Remove the three nuts that hold the upper steering shaft boot and remove the boot and the shaft through the engine compartment. This gives you easy access to the bearing assembly when attempting to reinstall it. Once you slide the assembly in as far as possible by hand, use a 18" piece of 1/2" wood doweling and a rubber hammer to tape the bearing assembly in. One person holds the dowel and does the tapping while the other holds the assembly in its correct position and moves the dowel around the housing between taps.
Thank you!
Yo. Thanks for making this vid. I did this repair last night and it was easy after watching you. Undo the connection in the engine compartment first. Then turn the wheel 90 degrees to remove the nut in the passenger compartment.
I found that putting the new carrier bearing under a light bulb for 20 minutes made installation easier.
Thanks for the video. Just changed the Dorman shaft on my 2002 Tahoe. All went without any problem. I was expecting problem with inserting the new shaft into the lower shaft but with the help of my friend I managed to do that pretty easy. The only thing is that I do not have the Torque wrench, so I hand tightened it and will ask my fellow mechanic to tighten it asap. Cheers!
Thanks! Your video made this simple. I used a 1" closed end wrench as Gary Moore had suggested to seat the bearing, that also worked amazing! Thanks to you both.
I learned something today, thank you. And oh yah this is for educational purposes only I didn’t forget!
I wanted to say thank you.
I just bought 04 2500HD it has this exact problem 197436 miles.
Good video
For those with Duramax trucks there is a boost pipe that makes it tougher from under the hood. Mine is lifted and I pulled out the fender well and access was SILLY easy
facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10156965056287974&set=pcb.2383878388565410&type=3&theater&ifg=1
hopefully pic link works for ya....
Thanks for the video, very detailed and professional. I changed the bearing in my 2003 Z71 Chevy Tahoe after watching the video and the clocking sound is gone, thanks .
Every video I see, you guys just leisurely push that intermediate shaft out of the way. Not me. Mine wouldn't budge. Holy carp is it a pita if it doesn't easily move.
Very well explained and worked through. I need to do this on my truck and this helps greatly.
This is a great video I'm going to replace my intermediate steering shaft in my 2000 GMC Savana van 3500 I've done plenty intermediate shafts but this was well video was will explain and give me ideas on how I can take care of my repair a quicker way thanks again
Great directions. Performed this job on a 2006 Silverado. The only thing is that I could not get the new sleave with the bearings on so I put the new bearings into the old sleeve and it slipped on perfectly. The clunk is gone. thanks great video
Got to do this myself. Thank you for showing some difficulty that can make you cus. Great video.👍👍👍👍😄
*First Thing* to do when working underneath the dash is fold a strip of Gorilla Tape over the razor sharp edges on any brackets you have to work up against!!!
Thanks For The Video!
Just a note, the shaft you removed is actually the upgraded Borgeson (sp?). Blue bushing/bearing is the OEM. So someone did the service you did earlier and used the upgraded steering shaft but some no-name bearing. So you upgraded the bearing and downgraded the steering shaft (but the U-joint on the steering shaft looks 100% the same on upgraded and new).
BTW, your video saved me easily an hour of struggling to get it all apart. Thank you for posting.
so the issue is with the bearing and no the shaft?
@@GR-uk5ou The issue is with the shaft.
When he does a side by side comparison, the old shaft has a tube isolator whereas the new shady is a solid u-joint (no isolation). He explains how there's some play when he rotates only the shaft.
This means that the rubber isolation has degraded and so now you have that loose steering feel.
Isolators are added to the steering system to reduce the road bumpiness feedback felt by the driver.
The bearing/ plastic bushing didn't look broken but it's still a good idea to replace it. When that breaks, you'll feel chucking on the steering column end.
Thank u so much for the vid just did mine on my 05 Tahoe it had the Stabilitrak steering wheel sensor right behind the green piece so I just kind of pryed it off with the bearing also and then when I put on the new bearing I cracked it a little bit so hopefully it doesn't make a big problem later on but all is well now steering is tight thanks again for the great video tutorial
watched this video today....great info. I going to be taking my seat out for other reasons and do the bearing then. Just have to figure out a way to hold the steering wheel with no seat belt!! Great video thanks!
Great video, definitely my symptoms. Your camera angles and views are helpful. It looks easy enough to do at home, thanks!
Well done video, those are hard camera angles. I see a lot of people replace the shaft and the bearing. For me, I did just the bearing only and it took care of it for me. No more CLUNK! :-)
Before you do anything, take cover off top of steering column, where the red flasher button is, and then start the truck and turn the wheel until you see a T-25 torx head screw. Probably loose? Turn wheel other direction until you see another T-25 torx head screw.
Mine were just about to fall out. It’s the tilt steering joint.
Good luck.
I just ordered it. Thanks! I was pissed after I changed the steering gear box and still had play. Hopefully this fixes it!
Riddle me this... Batman. Did it fix your play in the steering wheel that’s my problem people kept sayin it’s the gear box but I don’t think it is
Did it remove your play??
Thanks! Excellent Video! Took Me An Hour To change mine all thanks to your video!!!!
Good instruction video. Hope that driver's seat gets repaired ✌😀
You are the Man and thanks for all the info. Enjoy your time off😀😀
some parts diagrams show that special bolt (with the sidewall to prevent turning) as a regular bolt. Other show the nut having that sidewall on it. Yet others, like mine, show a regular bolt and regular nut. So odd. Great video, thanx
After an hour of trying to put the Dorman piece in, I couldn't get it the last 3/4 inch. So I came up with a plan to use a deep socket (30mm) as a ram to press it on the rest of the way. I didn't need to use a hammer or anything else, just tap the part with the socket. If you do this, use a socket large enough that if is putting force on the outer rim of NEAR the bearing and not the bearing itself. Had it installed in a couple minutes.
U rock, wish I'd run across this video many dollars ago.
Thank you so much for your skilled explanation and filming.
Glad this helped!
Yup, that's the noise.. thanks for the video amigo
Hehehe, UTUBE definitely save us some money and gain more experience as well. 🤗
Thanks brother best video on here by far!!
Not an easy job. This video helped me tremendously. Very much appreciated!
I wish there was a video on this for a 93.
Great video@
Should be pretty similar I would think
Very helpful, thank you. Best video on the subject I’ve found.
My new shaft would not fit and my new steering bearing would not fit. I ended up honing the shaft at both ends to a glass finish(I have a knife sharpening business which helped) and even then it took great effort to get it on. The bearing would not go on at all, after an hour I put the old one back on to get the truck running. This job was on a 2007 Silverado Classic, Not much room under the dash.
Great video, well done! Still can’t figure out how u got in there with the camera! 👍😎
Good video.I used a large wrench nut and a hammer, to get the bearing from the engine bay into the steering shaft, but you need a friend to hold the bearing from inside.
wow gj not breaking the new bearing lol. i feel your pain with that god dang thing. much cursing was had when i had to get the new one back in
i just ordered a new bearing and intermediate shaft, as i didn't replace the shaft when i replaced the bearing last year. wish me luck for round 2 lol
success, truck drives a hell of alot better. bearing wasnt such a pain in the ass this time. took about 15-20 min of swearing and i ended up cracking the plastic a tiny bit.
yeah I felt like selling it when i was installing that bearing . lol
Nice work,and explained step by step thanks ,would be doing the same job on my 04 yukon this week
Should have loosened the inside bolt first with the nut facing down. Leaving the bolt intact. Then straighten out the wheel and loosen the outside bolt. That way you can use a ratchet and help prevent you from cutting yourself.
I just watched your video and I congratulate you it is what I was looking for. I have a question the nut by the bearing is torque as the one on the lower side at 35 ft-lb? thanks a lot for your really good explanation on this project. I hope I get a respond.
You'll have to check a factory service manual for the correct torque, i don't know what it should be
Much appreciated for the vid for my 03 Chevrolet Suburban.
The 15 on mine under the dash TIGHT AF ! dnt wanna damage anything trying to turn it
Oh yes I also used a 15/16 open end wrench to kind of hammer it on had to go buy one of those at AutoZone
Need to do this on my 04 Yukon Denali as well, thanks for the video!
you have a lot of room under the dash. On my silverado the gas pedal makes it very difficult to work down there. You'd think they would be the same
Thanks for the video. Best one I found so far.
Nice work buddy. How long did this job take you? I have some slop in the steering on my 02 Tahoe 190K miles and recently changed my pitman and Idler arms, of course by referencing your video, it seemed to help a little. My next thing is going to be changing the inner and outer tie rods, if this does not get rid of the slop. This job, steering shaft and bushing, will be next on the list. Sure appreciate all the videos.
Thanks Bud - I appreciate the support and kind words! This job only took 30 to 45 minutes (not counting the extra time due to setting up the camera and such). Good luck with your tahoe!
I'm definitely going to try this to my 03 avalanche.
The Little SJ's x
Great Great tutorial Sir and music was awesome and in time with your style
First of all thank you very much for your video but one question I have is could you not reposition the steering wheel so the shaft nut under the dash would be easier accessible?
excellent narration . explained very good !
I just watched how you replaced the bearing for the steering shaft, and since you were there you adjusted the gear box,
and so can you say WHY you had to do that ? please does that take away any lose movement on the steering wheel ?
and is that to be done when the pitman bracket that connect to the ball joint underneath is replaced ?
I will look for your reply on your next input. Thank you every thing else well explained
I posted the videos in reverse order of what you should do. First check the pitman arm and tie rods for looseness and wear. Then check the steering shaft and bearing, then tighten the steering box adjustment. I did all this becuse the steering was loose and sloppy.
@@SevenFortyOne 91 s10 steering colunm upper shaft nuckle. Popped off. How do you get it back in. Tilt. That plastic nuckle t thingy
Lol the tool to lock the steering shaft is only $11. FYI for safety the airbags should first be disabled and all shaft relationships should be marked when doing this type of job. Transfer the marks to the new parts before installing. Also, it is much easier if you remove either the firewall grommet or the accelerator pedal position sensor before reinstalling the shaft. Thanks for posting this video though.
My van have the same issues my question is if that part can cause to my stirring weel clock my tired to the left and how much I should be get it fixed
2005 gmc sierra has metal under cab,,can you take it out by eng bay side?
Very informative. Thanks!
DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER TO PRY THE BEARING BACK INTO THE STEERING COLUMN!!! I TRIED IT TWICE AND BOTH TIMES, THE PLASTIC HOUSING CRACKED BEFORE THE BEARING EVEN MOVED. I GREASED THE HOUSING AND DID IT EXACTLY AS HE EXPLAINED. THEY BOTH BROKE. IT TOOK ME AN EXTRA 2 DAYS TO FINISH THE JOB BECAUSE THE STORE HAD TO REORDER THE PART.
I’m having this problem right now and wondering Will this part fit on my 1999 Cadillac Escalade?? So I can order the right one
You'll have to check with someone else...I have no idea
thank you for the video, can you tell me once these parts are replaced does it fail again? also how can you tell it has been replaced ?
thanks in advance,
Mine didn't fail again but results may vary...I'm not sure how to tell if these have been replaced but if the parts are worn things will be loose and may make clunking noises
Did it my self. Thanks
GMC Sierra pickup when I make a Left turn . and try to straighten out steering slips . and almost went on to I'm coming traffic ? Any ideas thanks
i'm having the same problem so just change the intermediate steering shaft
Great vidio Steve really!! Now its time for me to get it done.
Thanks Bill! As you saw, its not too bad of a job to tackle.
Amazing video thank you
Is one of the problems has to do with the streering wheel not locking???
What could cause your steering wheel to be really loose and have a lot of play in it or it will cause it to move all the way up and all the way down all the way to the left and all the way to the right?????
Thank you
Is it safe to drive on a bad steering column bearing?
Is it really necessary to torque it ? I don’t have one of those big ass torque wrenches so what could I do
Then 1 day later with the smaller knuckle the clanking starts again
old video... but you think this could me my problem? my steering wheel pulls back and wiggles forward and backwards upon acceleration.. every bump makes it jiggle too, feels like it's gonna fall in my lap
Take your car to a mechanic immediately
@@SevenFortyOne I can fix it.. im just trying to figure out what it could be.. it could be the upper shaft or intermediate. sometimes I can grab the shaft under the hood and wiggle it side to side.. but other times it'll be tight. that bearing on the intermediate shaft that you changed.. that I can grab and slide up and down
Excellent, detailed video !
Rick Sweet 2&
Great job man.
Thanks!
How long did it last till noise came back mine lasted about 2 months
It never came back
THANK YOU SevenFortyOne!!!!. I Have a Lifted 2006 LT 4X4 Cloth Seats Suburban for 6 Months and need this repair and some others too.
Was 115.000 Miles on it.
SOME REPAIRS WERE DONE. on may 2017 ( UPPER and LOWER ball joins ) ( Front and Rear Brakes Pads and Rotors Disc. ) ( Front Sway Bar Links.) (AC Belt Tensioner and belt )
( SERPENTINE MOTOR BELT ) BELT TENSIONER PULLEY) ( IDLER PULLEY )
After the front work was done, I started hearing a noise. And at low speed the traction active letter ALERT come on it and the motor is not accelerate.
I have to take my foot off the pedal and then accelerate again for the
Traction Active letter turn off and for the motor to run normal.
Not sure why this happens. please help me with this problem.
THANK YOU AGAIN.
I'm new to these trucks so I'm not sure what would cause your problem. You could try going to the tahoe-yukon forum and ask for help there.
Thanks for the video, it helped me a lot. My problem is that the clunking comes back ofter just a few miles of driving...
I first changed only the shaft, then when it came back I changed the bearing as well. Same thing happened. Anyone else experienced this? I've used dorman parts for shaft and bearing.
Use OEM
Thanks I did at last. Now its fine 👍🏻
@@bogerti oh good ya just did mine today cracked the outside a little bit on the bearing hopefully doesn't screw it up seems good for now:)
Did you have adjustable brake and gas pedals? Great video thank you.
No, they are fixed pedals
If you don't torque the bolts can it cause steering wheel play? I replaced the bearing, upper and lower shaft but didn't torque them and I've got steering wheel play.
Your play is probably something else. If 5he bolts are tight then the shaft shouldn't have play in it. Check your steering box and ball joints
If your going to have music have something good like Tool, or Slayer. Thanks!
Great video
another channel says the plastic part is the problem.
Thanks for this vid very detailed