1ROAD so I was able to drop the shaft and pull the pedal assembly out of the way in about 15 minutes. When it came time to pull the old bearing I cupped my hands around the collar that sticks out and applied pressure the entire collar shattered and broke off flush with the end of the shaft, anyone have any ideas on how to get it out without dropping the column?
Nice job. Very clear steady camera work. I did mine today. About 1:15, because I hadn't heard anywhere that my '03 Escalade has some other doohickey in front of the plastic bearing. So, I just replaced the shaft. About $26 on ebay shipped. A hint about removing the interior 15 mm bolt-slide your seat forward to create slack in the seat belt that is holding the wheel, turn your wheel 90 degrees left, and zap out the bolt with a power tool in 2 seconds. Straighten the wheel, slide the seat back, and restore the tight 12 o'clock wheel position. I got lucky and the under hood connection didn't fight me too bad. Grease helped.
I just finished replacing both upper and lower shafts on my 03 Avalanche. The upper shaft I pulled into the cab, slow and angle up into the dash. Once it came through it was easy. Installing the new shaft, reverse the procedure but go slow. The new shaft has more compression than your old worn out unit. So it does require you to grab hold and pull down to connect to lower shaft. Be sure to connect to column first. Good video.
Same issue on the tight fit also. I used MUSCLE GEASE and used a wide chisel and small hammer and to open the flange a slight bit and installed it with ease. Retightened that pinch bolt to 35 foot lbs. No more clunking noise. Thank you for your post! Saved me so much time and frustration.
Nice job on the vid. Good camera work. Thanks! On the bottom part with the tough fit, probably the OEM shaft (female end) got a little bent by someone over-tightening the bolt. That piece would come off the steering box pretty easy, and you could massage the female end back into proper shape on a workbench, then the assembly 'should' be scream-free, hahaha!
Thanks for the video! Just changed the Dorman shaft on my 2002 Tahoe. All went without any problem. I was expecting problem with inserting the new shaft into the lower shaft but with the help of my friend I managed to do that pretty easy. The only thing is that I do not have the Torque wrench, so I hand tightened it and will ask my fellow mechanic to tighten it asap. Cheers!
my man...i feel your pain!!! i did this last week but i knew what i was getting myself into a head of time lol. what i ended up doing to make it a tiny bit easier was to take a rubber mallet and tap the top of that joint lightly straight up and down while holding them in place before feeding it through the firewall. it then took me 5 times as long to separate them again and actually using a metal hammer tapping on the bottom section (not on the new piece). once i separated again i then fed through the firewall and then wiggled and cursed for a good 20+ mins. the top half went together NO PROBLEM once i unbolted the gas pedal assembly. mine might have been a tiny bit worse though as i replaced the bearing first just like u but then i ordered the steering shaft and a brand new bearing again and did them both at the same time, and im sure you know what a PITA the bearing is as well. anyways good freakin job...its a tough but immensely satisfying job, made my truck feel 100% different and more solid.
I just did my intermediate shaft on a 2003 Chevy Suburban the upper joint inside the cab slipped on easy but the lower joint was very difficult to place and seat properly I ended up putting a vise grip on the intermediate shaft and took a handheld air chisel with the Chisel part ground down so it wasn't Sharp. Placed it on the Vise grip and jackhammered that thing into place within about 30 seconds. I tried everything else like you did to no avail and the air chisel was the only thing that worked. Thank you for the excellent video
i replaced the bearing and upper steering shaft took about an hour since im new to DIY but it was an easy fix, im looking to replace the lower shaft now..
I can't believe this , I hade the same problem in my GMC envoy 2003 ,for years couldn't know what's that cluncking noise was ,and you just fixed in a12 minutes video that's awesome gonna fix it right away .
This is awesome! I’ve been working with my mechanic for a year to find and fix this on my 2007 Saab 97x with 281k miles! Nearly every front end part has been replaced and some rear suspension parts. Mine makes a click driving up my cracked concrete driveway as the vehicle shifts back and forth or when the front tires go over the bump into the garage then same noise when the rear tires hit the same bump. Can’t wait to share this!!
just replaced the int shaft and collar. Didn't stop the clunk, so the sound is something else. But wow, the steering is tight, responsive, and sensitive; I can feel all the little bumps and clunks I couldn't feel before. Have replaced the tie rods and rack and pinion. 2007 classic silverado crew cab, or Trucky Truck", handles a little bit more like new with every new whatever I put in it. Thanks for the "dad" videos, you make errthing seem less overwhelming. Addictively wait for every new post.
Boy, you weren't kidding replacing that thing. The bottom part went in good but the part under the steering wheel would not go in like your problem with the lower area fitting. Also I replaced the bearing sleeve but the new one was too difficult to put in. So, I took the new bearings out of the new one and put it in the old sleeve and it snapped right in. Very difficult job to do this project. But I finished and saved a bunch of meoney. Great video by the way.
Good video. Glad you advised on the 2 hours to repair as I will send it through the windshield if not done in that time. Thanks for posting it along with the links for the parts.
Hey bud, just did this today to my suburban and you were absolutely right! It’s a fight to get that new piece in the lower shaft.. I fought it for about a hour to get it to go through.. but for the most part, no more clunky steering!! Thanks!
Thank you for this video, my 04 Sierra does what you explained hitting little bumps, and I have a really annoying rubbing sound, "mostly turning right" in my intermediate shaft
if you use the old shaft to wiggle and open the socket it makes the new one much easier to install. also test install the new shaft in the bottom socket before you remove it again to put it through the firewall so you know everything fits well and you dont struggle like this guy did. i wish he had shared the Dorman Steering Bearing (905-512) if im doing this job i definitely want to change that too.
I changed mine on my yukon....i extended mine first and connected the top first then came to the hood and just push it back to were i connected and put the bolt back... Just took me 40 min total taking my time and drives like new now.... But thank you cuz i use you vid for reference....
Tech tip ...take the whole shaft upper and lower , replace both , or put them together , then install them , way easier..thanks for the part number , dealer and the local three parts stores were lost on that part number..lol
Put the shaft in the freezer for a couple hours then heat up the lower socket with a heat gun or small torch. Should give you enough clearance for it to slide right on. May never get it back off though.
Holy crap I thought it was property brothers. Lol. I did same thing just replaced the bearing under steering wheel but when turning I get that annoying clunking when I turn. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the great video, I need to do this repair on my ‘03 Escalade and this was super informative and insightful, especially knowing the difficulties that I can anticipate- thanks again!!!
I just dealt with this crap today and I think I went through way worse of a experience im in Canada and get a lot of rust well for the life of me I couldn't get the upper shaft to separate from the lower I had to remove the steering box and box shaft as one unit had to use fire to separate and to get the new one in had to lightly grind the new shaft to get it in but now its done changed the bearing at the same time sorry about the story just holy what an ordeal thanks for the video it did help
Man you had hating the next 3 hrs of my life!! I don’t know if dorman changed the shaft but mine was super easy going together. I did take the gas pedal out for extra room. About a 45 min job with the bearing replacement as well.
If you disconnected the steering shaft from the rack and pinion unit, you can just pull the lower shaft from the upper as they are splined together connecting only one way. The upper spline will be visible just below the firewall boot when the lower is pulled from it. Assembly is maybe a little harder but you can "tap" on the nut and it goes in slowly after aligning the one wider shaft spline then reconnect to rack.
wow. I would have never figured out that was the fix to the clunking in my 03 Silverado it's been 2 years of chasing problems and not I did what you done and it's fixed. thanks for the videos
The reason you think it fix it for a bit changing the bearing was because you moved the intermediate shaft by sliding it together or apart. telescoping the shaft moves lube down the splines. the excessive play in the splines is what causes it. Gm actually had us remove the shaft and force lube down the splines. that would take care of it for a year or so.
Thanks for the video! Some folks drill and tap a zerk fitting into the lower end of the factory ISS to repack it with grease. The clunk you feel is that loose play you noticed in the original part. Knowing how much trouble you had will make me think twice about pulling out the original. Thanks!
I have a 2006 Yukon and i got the clunk in the original one back in 2010 at 60K miles. I put a new updated GM one and I now have 130K clunk free miles.
I just completed the job, and what a pain. However, I did find it easier or doable if you remove the boot as well as the lower steering shaft altogether. By doing so I was able to lightly hammer the upper intermediate shaft with ease.
Due to the way it's captured or bolted up, I wonder if bolting the lower end first then closing up the distance up top second using the coupling would work easier. Either way, nice work mad man. Another engineering repair forethought marvel.
I definitely appreciate this video Jimmy! Immense thanks. Perhaps if you have to do this again, instead of selling the vehicle, file down the new shaft end to make it less tight and difficult to install... just a thought.
So I just installed the OEM version. It was a tight fit and no good way to hammer it in. What I ended up doing is 1) take off the boot to get a good grip of the shaft 2) try it on first with the lower steering shaft upright and use a lot of wiggle/gentle hammering to see if it'll actually go in, then take it off, which was difficult too (you won't be able to insert the intermediate shaft through the hole this way, I tried, so don't force it in too hard) 3) put shaft in freezer for 30 minutes 4) take it out, slip boot on (check to make sure correctly), slide one end into the firewall, one end into the lower shaft, then push and wiggle like mad with a towel to get a good grip. 5) once you get a sliver of the holes lined up, use a punch/screwdriver though the hole to pry it down. I have the adjustable pedals, so that's another whole lot of cursing tryng to get the top 10mm nut off/on. It's the only few times I used my dedicated universal 10mm socket Overall, it wasn't too bad, at least not bad enough that I won't attempt it again.
Thanks for the video ! Thank you subscribers for the comments too. I was able to replace mine within 30 mins?? I placed the shaft in the freezer for a couple of hours then lubed the end and it went right it. What a difference does my steering make now! Thank you for the videos! My next project is the oil catch can!
It took me 8 years to figure out the deteriorating steering in my 1995 K2500 Suburban was caused by the rag joint in the intermediate steering shaft. WOW What a difference. Note the replacement had to be modified by grinding the square shaft down to size and it is also clocked about off center by about 15 degrees. Slop FIXED. I haven't gotten it realigned but will do as soon as I change some other parts.
I replaced the bearing and the shaft.. The old shaft would not compress without a lot of force, grease had totally dry up. The bearing was a pain to install, I found that a PVC 1-1/2" pipe fit over bearing to help press on most of the way. My new steering shaft went in smoothly, pulled the shaft out from inside of the truck without much effort. That annoying clucking went away going over bumps..
Thank You...This was driving me insane. Paid 500 dollars 2 years ago. Rattling came back 2 months later. I took entire shaft off. Placed a 2x4 on the ground and used held new piece against lower shaft and hit bottom shaft on wood letting gravity work. Hope that makes sense. I appreciate your video.
I swapped the ISS in my wife's 2004 Burb about 2 months ago with the APDTY version of the Dorman part you used (both made from the same Chinesium alloy more than likely) ...seemed to improve the steering play a bit (maybe just the placebo effect who knows?). In any case.... today is the first time I had driven the thing since I replaced the ISS and it had at least an inch of play in the steering wheel and a chore to keep going down the road straight... ( Dear wife...did you not notice something didn't seem right? ...No.... you said if the check engine light wasn't on it was okay to drive) Okay Okay... never mind...Fortunately (like any pack rat) I kept the old one and swapped it back in. The replacement APDTY shaft U joint was fine but the slip joint had wallowed out and that is where the play was....... Buy aftermarket or OEM? .Throw the dice and what do ya know "snake eyes" ....
Man thanks for the video. I think this is the problem I'm having. Like you said hitting small bumps or cracks in the road it feels like my truck is totally unstable and shimmys bad
@@ahankins19 it fixed a lot of it ... my truck is lowered so I don't if that is part of my problem. . But it fixed 85% of it . I think on a factory ride height truck it would probably great.
I think it's harder to replace because the more I look into this issue, I'm learning the Dorman part is indeed better/Slighter bigger build. I'm about to go out and get this done in the next hour or so. 👍
@@midwesthustla02 *Since this dumbass isn’t replying, i did it, i assume they got a lot of complaints and fixed the fitment issue because it literally went in no issue took me about 30min total*
When I did this and got to the part where the shaft is almost inserted, but not fully, I was a able to get a small but strong round screwdriver through the bolt hole and then gently tap with a hammer on alternating sides to get the alignment complete for the actual bolt to then go through. Hope it helps someone!
I have a 2005 suburban 180k and just replaced the shocks/struts all the way around (original) and still feel the clunk in the steering wheel.. this is my next objective.. it would be nice to have such a smooth running power house
I had the same problem changing the sway bar links the first time AutoZone gave me the wrong ones second time they were too big because the stock sway bar links have skinny rubber boots when you buy them knew they have these big thick ones on so it's not simple at all I said the hell with it and used the old rubbers or a couple of them so it would fit going to have to go back later and adjust the sway bar to fit the new rubber bushings but it was raining last night and I just needed to put it together
I used a pair of vice grips on the shaft and tapped the vice grips with a hammer to get it in without much difficulty. I would have lost it if I had that much trouble!
Not sure why you had so much trouble with install. Bottom end of shaft went together in 5 minutes. Used brake grease on both pieces. Total job time 45 minutes and I am a shade tree mechanic. However, thanks for your video - it gave me confidence to tackle the job.
Between fighting the new bearing in under the dash and fighting the lower shaft on I have to say I may just let mine knock till I sell it. I have no faith in shop mechanics giving a damn about my truck so yeah thanks alot chevy.
Great Idea,I really like the needle bearing option as well from borgesson,good job and spoting the bearings that needed grease & adding a ton of it later in your future videos to come. Time for some transmission upgrades don't be weary of a 500 boost valve z-pack quick shift kitts,it won't be harsh but like Christmas day every day shifting. Side Note:You can take out the restriction in the input shaft but your trans oil will back out of your torque converter if go that way not to worry just check fluid levels when running. B&M Trans cooler is the only way to go check on some shorty heads to lighten the engine compartment even further ceramic coated ,Y pipe,spun catalytic converter,super 44 Flow Master 2 & a half outlets or for a quite ride Borla 2 & half inlet & a 2 & a quarter outlets. Side Note: Pulstar spark plugs work, Walmart. Upgrade to a MSD ignition coil & wires. Fuel Injection cleaning at the dealership works 15,000 miles or more.
Hi! I’ve been watching your videos since I discover your channel. Can you give any updates of the steering shaft after all this time. I have some play and clunking on my 2016 Chevy Silverado steering shaft. And just need some input on how is been doing and if the clunking noise has gone after all this time. Thanks and keep making awesome videos.
I'm going to do this as soon as I get funds. I usually unscrew it from the bottom and slide it in and out and that will stop it from clunking for a while. But ide rather do this permanent fix.
dude wtf where you have been on my life? i have this problem on my truck for 70k now these idiots from dealership fkn clueless.....all(not 1 deallership) they said too many parts.... to guess.( i spent 3k changing parts including steering rack). And look you just need one guy from youtube FOR FREE!!! 12 fkn minutes. ... for fk sakes man the only reason i found you because its fresh video and there is only steering shaft(lower and intermediate)left to cause the problem.... thank you very much.
On our 2011 I had to separate the 2 shafts when doing the glow plugs on the Dmax which is directly behind it. Did both the shaft bolt and glow plug thru the drivers side fender well. After removing the fender plastic liner. Was not bad but the shaft nut was tight. Hope this helps in the future
I have a 2007 Chevrolet HHR. I took it to the shop. I was having vibration and noise when I use my brakes. They said it was my control arms. I had those replaced but I'm still having the same problems.
Do you need a alignment after doing this job?? I have changed all my suspension everything from struds to tie rods ect.. the only thing I haven’t replace is this intermediate shaft.. after over 500$ on parts and 400$ on labor I do hope this solves my issue.. bad think is I just got a alignment and spend 80$ I don’t want to replace this part and have to do another alignment
Coming up on a year after replacement: has the issue been resolved? I have a 03 Yukon with a lot of play in the steering wheel and want to fix it for good.
I'm about to do this to my 2004 silverado. Sorry if this is an obvious answer but, did you grease the intermediary before inserting into the lower? Almost every other video I seen, they did this. Thanks for the video though.
Did you lube the new upper shaft were it engages the intermediate shaft? A heat gun might also have aided in getting the few thousandths of clearance needed. Good work, thanks for the video, my Chevys also send their regards.
Thanks for the video. I had the same experience as you with my 2005 Silverado 2500 truck. I replaced the bearing and it cured the rattling for a week or two but the rattling returned. I've now replaced the intermediate steering shaft but, unfortunately, this has not eliminated the rattle (although it's not as bad as it used to be). I'm wondering what else it might be. If anyone has any thoughts, I'd be grateful. Thanks!
So the previous repair you said with in 4 weeks the problem was back..... how about this time? That would be good for all to know since this is such a pita repair.
I drive RAV4 and I have stiff steering wheel when weather is hot. When is cold then is perfect. What to look? So, it is not like, when car is worm but when I start car I feel stiff steering wheel. In the morning on 5C everything is fine. Expecialy when is - temperature, all good.
How long did the Dorman part last? 1 week? 2 weeks? I need to replace the intermediate shaft in my escalade, but I'm going with the updated GM part. No Dorman stuff for me.
So I am not really getting a "Clunk" in my steering but my steering wheel is all loosey goosey... could this be the fix? I can actually move my steering shaft by hand back and forth (not like steering but move it according to the play) and get the same loose feeling when my yukon is not even turned on.
Great vid! Thanks! Do you know how hard to replace the steering bearing or how much a mechanic would charge? I could probably handle the intermediate steering shaft myself but if it is the steering bearing I am just wondering what I’m up against. Thank you!
1ROAD Thanks I’ve been studying your videos for almost a year now. I’ve definitely benefited from your work. The video on knock sensors encouraged me to tackle it on my 95 gmc sierra. Keep up the awesome work 👍🏻
Hello All! I Hope you appreciate this video! It was a fairly big job including the editing. Enjoy! (Don't forget to thumbs-up for me!!)
1 Road they all do it even after replacement. i was a GM dealer tech for 6 years. the updated version does it after about a month
Travis R. Don't tell me that man. I hope that doesn't come back!!!
1 Road it possibly
1ROAD so I was able to drop the shaft and pull the pedal assembly out of the way in about 15 minutes. When it came time to pull the old bearing I cupped my hands around the collar that sticks out and applied pressure the entire collar shattered and broke off flush with the end of the shaft, anyone have any ideas on how to get it out without dropping the column?
Did mine a year ago. No problem since.
Nice job. Very clear steady camera work. I did mine today. About 1:15, because I hadn't heard anywhere that my '03 Escalade has some other doohickey in front of the plastic bearing. So, I just replaced the shaft. About $26 on ebay shipped.
A hint about removing the interior 15 mm bolt-slide your seat forward to create slack in the seat belt that is holding the wheel, turn your wheel 90 degrees left, and zap out the bolt with a power tool in 2 seconds. Straighten the wheel, slide the seat back, and restore the tight 12 o'clock wheel position. I got lucky and the under hood connection didn't fight me too bad. Grease helped.
I just finished replacing both upper and lower shafts on my 03 Avalanche. The upper shaft I pulled into the cab, slow and angle up into the dash. Once it came through it was easy. Installing the new shaft, reverse the procedure but go slow. The new shaft has more compression than your old worn out unit. So it does require you to grab hold and pull down to connect to lower shaft. Be sure to connect to column first. Good video.
Same issue on the tight fit also. I used MUSCLE GEASE and used a wide chisel and small hammer and to open the flange a slight bit and installed it with ease. Retightened that pinch bolt to 35 foot lbs. No more clunking noise. Thank you for your post! Saved me so much time and frustration.
I greased my shaft before installing it. I had no issues. Thanks for the video
Same, it took me a few seconds to line it up
Nice job on the vid. Good camera work. Thanks! On the bottom part with the tough fit, probably the OEM shaft (female end) got a little bent by someone over-tightening the bolt. That piece would come off the steering box pretty easy, and you could massage the female end back into proper shape on a workbench, then the assembly 'should' be scream-free, hahaha!
Thanks for the video! Just changed the Dorman shaft on my 2002 Tahoe. All went without any problem. I was expecting problem with inserting the new shaft into the lower shaft but with the help of my friend I managed to do that pretty easy. The only thing is that I do not have the Torque wrench, so I hand tightened it and will ask my fellow mechanic to tighten it asap. Cheers!
Is it still working now?
my man...i feel your pain!!! i did this last week but i knew what i was getting myself into a head of time lol. what i ended up doing to make it a tiny bit easier was to take a rubber mallet and tap the top of that joint lightly straight up and down while holding them in place before feeding it through the firewall. it then took me 5 times as long to separate them again and actually using a metal hammer tapping on the bottom section (not on the new piece). once i separated again i then fed through the firewall and then wiggled and cursed for a good 20+ mins. the top half went together NO PROBLEM once i unbolted the gas pedal assembly.
mine might have been a tiny bit worse though as i replaced the bearing first just like u but then i ordered the steering shaft and a brand new bearing again and did them both at the same time, and im sure you know what a PITA the bearing is as well. anyways good freakin job...its a tough but immensely satisfying job, made my truck feel 100% different and more solid.
I just did my intermediate shaft on a 2003 Chevy Suburban the upper joint inside the cab slipped on easy but the lower joint was very difficult to place and seat properly I ended up putting a vise grip on the intermediate shaft and took a handheld air chisel with the Chisel part ground down so it wasn't Sharp. Placed it on the Vise grip and jackhammered that thing into place within about 30 seconds. I tried everything else like you did to no avail and the air chisel was the only thing that worked. Thank you for the excellent video
i replaced the bearing and upper steering shaft took about an hour since im new to DIY but it was an easy fix, im looking to replace the lower shaft now..
I can't believe this , I hade the same problem in my GMC envoy 2003 ,for years couldn't know what's that cluncking noise was ,and you just fixed in a12 minutes video that's awesome gonna fix it right away .
Did it fix the problem ?
This is awesome! I’ve been working with my mechanic for a year to find and fix this on my 2007 Saab 97x with 281k miles! Nearly every front end part has been replaced and some rear suspension parts. Mine makes a click driving up my cracked concrete driveway as the vehicle shifts back and forth or when the front tires go over the bump into the garage then same noise when the rear tires hit the same bump. Can’t wait to share this!!
just replaced the int shaft and collar. Didn't stop the clunk, so the sound is something else. But wow, the steering is tight, responsive, and sensitive; I can feel all the little bumps and clunks I couldn't feel before. Have replaced the tie rods and rack and pinion. 2007 classic silverado crew cab, or Trucky Truck", handles a little bit more like new with every new whatever I put in it. Thanks for the "dad" videos, you make errthing seem less overwhelming. Addictively wait for every new post.
I have that same rattle in my steering wheel. Thanks for letting me know what to fix.
Boy, you weren't kidding replacing that thing. The bottom part went in good but the part under the steering wheel would not go in like your problem with the lower area fitting. Also I replaced the bearing sleeve but the new one was too difficult to put in. So, I took the new bearings out of the new one and put it in the old sleeve and it snapped right in. Very difficult job to do this project. But I finished and saved a bunch of meoney. Great video by the way.
Good video. Glad you advised on the 2 hours to repair as I will send it through the windshield if not done in that time. Thanks for posting it along with the links for the parts.
Hey bud, just did this today to my suburban and you were absolutely right! It’s a fight to get that new piece in the lower shaft.. I fought it for about a hour to get it to go through.. but for the most part, no more clunky steering!! Thanks!
Thank you for this video, my 04 Sierra does what you explained hitting little bumps, and I have a really annoying rubbing sound, "mostly turning right" in my intermediate shaft
Freezer worked !! 15 minute job no BS ....thanks!
if you use the old shaft to wiggle and open the socket it makes the new one much easier to install. also test install the new shaft in the bottom socket before you remove it again to put it through the firewall so you know everything fits well and you dont struggle like this guy did. i wish he had shared the Dorman Steering Bearing (905-512) if im doing this job i definitely want to change that too.
I changed mine on my yukon....i extended mine first and connected the top first then came to the hood and just push it back to were i connected and put the bolt back... Just took me 40 min total taking my time and drives like new now.... But thank you cuz i use you vid for reference....
Tech tip ...take the whole shaft upper and lower , replace both , or put them together , then install them , way easier..thanks for the part number , dealer and the local three parts stores were lost on that part number..lol
Put the shaft in the freezer for a couple hours then heat up the lower socket with a heat gun or small torch. Should give you enough clearance for it to slide right on. May never get it back off though.
Michael Palmer could I put a little brake antisieze on?
That is a very nerd and great solution!!!
Or just take out the lower shaft, put them together outside of the engine bay where you can work on them easier, then reinstall both as a unit.
I put a little grease on mine and got it together in about 10 minutes
You read my mine that's what I was about to write, i do that often when the tolerances are critical.
Holy crap I thought it was property brothers. Lol. I did same thing just replaced the bearing under steering wheel but when turning I get that annoying clunking when I turn. Thanks for the video.
"I have been pulling and yanking and pushing on this shaft for probably the last 30 plus minutes and boy is this a tight fit!" 😂😂😂😂
Chase Patton I was waiting for that!! 😋
That's what _she_ said . .. 😝
Man I'm dead! Lol
Thank you for the great video, I need to do this repair on my ‘03 Escalade and this was super informative and insightful, especially knowing the difficulties that I can anticipate- thanks again!!!
"I have been pulling and pushing and yanking on this shaft..." 😂😂
Sounds like my Friday nights
I just dealt with this crap today and I think I went through way worse of a experience im in Canada and get a lot of rust well for the life of me I couldn't get the upper shaft to separate from the lower I had to remove the steering box and box shaft as one unit had to use fire to separate and to get the new one in had to lightly grind the new shaft to get it in but now its done changed the bearing at the same time sorry about the story just holy what an ordeal thanks for the video it did help
Man you had hating the next 3 hrs of my life!! I don’t know if dorman changed the shaft but mine was super easy going together. I did take the gas pedal out for extra room. About a 45 min job with the bearing replacement as well.
If you disconnected the steering shaft from the rack and pinion unit, you can just pull the lower shaft from the upper as they are splined together connecting only one way. The upper spline will be visible just below the firewall boot when the lower is pulled from it. Assembly is maybe a little harder but you can "tap" on the nut and it goes in slowly after aligning the one wider shaft spline then reconnect to rack.
wow. I would have never figured out that was the fix to the clunking in my 03 Silverado it's been 2 years of chasing problems and not I did what you done and it's fixed. thanks for the videos
Did you have a wobble on your steering wheel
The reason you think it fix it for a bit changing the bearing was because you moved the intermediate shaft by sliding it together or apart. telescoping the shaft moves lube down the splines. the excessive play in the splines is what causes it. Gm actually had us remove the shaft and force lube down the splines. that would take care of it for a year or so.
I feel bad because mine went in so easily lol. Only issue I had was getting the damn bolt back in under the dash by the pedals. What a PIA.
Thanks for the video! Some folks drill and tap a zerk fitting into the lower end of the factory ISS to repack it with grease. The clunk you feel is that loose play you noticed in the original part. Knowing how much trouble you had will make me think twice about pulling out the original. Thanks!
Thanks for this. Got tired of the loose steering and clunking constantly.
I love your tenacity, great video, thanks for sharing. I have a 97' and 03' that are needing to be repaired.
Thank you for the video! Flawless victory! You even shedded some blood! Glad you showed it whos boss
I have a 2006 Yukon and i got the clunk in the original one back in 2010 at 60K miles. I put a new updated GM one and I now have 130K clunk free miles.
I just completed the job, and what a pain. However, I did find it easier or doable if you remove the boot as well as the lower steering shaft altogether. By doing so I was able to lightly hammer the upper intermediate shaft with ease.
thank you so much for posting this how-to video. Your videos have helped me with so much of my DIY project especially this one. You are F'ing awesome!
Due to the way it's captured or bolted up, I wonder if bolting the lower end first then closing up the distance up top second using the coupling would work easier. Either way, nice work mad man. Another engineering repair forethought marvel.
I definitely appreciate this video Jimmy! Immense thanks. Perhaps if you have to do this again, instead of selling the vehicle, file down the new shaft end to make it less tight and difficult to install... just a thought.
So I just installed the OEM version. It was a tight fit and no good way to hammer it in. What I ended up doing is 1) take off the boot to get a good grip of the shaft 2) try it on first with the lower steering shaft upright and use a lot of wiggle/gentle hammering to see if it'll actually go in, then take it off, which was difficult too (you won't be able to insert the intermediate shaft through the hole this way, I tried, so don't force it in too hard) 3) put shaft in freezer for 30 minutes 4) take it out, slip boot on (check to make sure correctly), slide one end into the firewall, one end into the lower shaft, then push and wiggle like mad with a towel to get a good grip. 5) once you get a sliver of the holes lined up, use a punch/screwdriver though the hole to pry it down.
I have the adjustable pedals, so that's another whole lot of cursing tryng to get the top 10mm nut off/on. It's the only few times I used my dedicated universal 10mm socket
Overall, it wasn't too bad, at least not bad enough that I won't attempt it again.
Thanks for the video ! Thank you subscribers for the comments too. I was able to replace mine within 30 mins?? I placed the shaft in the freezer for a couple of hours then lubed the end and it went right it. What a difference does my steering make now! Thank you for the videos! My next project is the oil catch can!
It took me 8 years to figure out the deteriorating steering in my 1995 K2500 Suburban was caused by the rag joint in the intermediate steering shaft. WOW What a difference. Note the replacement had to be modified by grinding the square shaft down to size and it is also clocked about off center by about 15 degrees. Slop FIXED. I haven't gotten it realigned but will do as soon as I change some other parts.
I replaced the bearing and the shaft.. The old shaft would not compress without a lot of force, grease had totally dry up. The bearing was a pain to install, I found that a PVC 1-1/2" pipe fit over bearing to help press on most of the way. My new steering shaft went in smoothly, pulled the shaft out from inside of the truck without much effort.
That annoying clucking went away going over bumps..
Well sir? Was it truly an upgrade or is it rattling again?
Thank You...This was driving me insane. Paid 500 dollars 2 years ago. Rattling came back 2 months later. I took entire shaft off. Placed a 2x4 on the ground and used held new piece against lower shaft and hit bottom shaft on wood letting gravity work. Hope that makes sense. I appreciate your video.
Buddy is my turn to fight with my truck trying to get that noise out the way 😂😂😂😂nice video
I swapped the ISS in my wife's 2004 Burb about 2 months ago with the APDTY version of the Dorman part you used (both made from the same Chinesium alloy more than likely) ...seemed to improve the steering play a bit (maybe just the placebo effect who knows?). In any case.... today is the first time I had driven the thing since I replaced the ISS and it had at least an inch of play in the steering wheel and a chore to keep going down the road straight... ( Dear wife...did you not notice something didn't seem right? ...No.... you said if the check engine light wasn't on it was okay to drive) Okay Okay... never mind...Fortunately (like any pack rat) I kept the old one and swapped it back in. The replacement APDTY shaft U joint was fine but the slip joint had wallowed out and that is where the play was....... Buy aftermarket or OEM? .Throw the dice and what do ya know "snake eyes" ....
Man thanks for the video. I think this is the problem I'm having.
Like you said hitting small bumps or cracks in the road it feels like my truck is totally unstable and shimmys bad
Jeremy Eubanks did this fix the issue?? Cause my truck is doing this and it’s driving me nuts
@@ahankins19 it fixed a lot of it ... my truck is lowered so I don't if that is part of my problem. . But it fixed 85% of it
. I think on a factory ride height truck it would probably great.
I think it's harder to replace because the more I look into this issue, I'm learning the Dorman part is indeed better/Slighter bigger build. I'm about to go out and get this done in the next hour or so. 👍
Howd it go if you can remember a year ago? Lol im getting one tomorrow
How'd it go for ya????
@@midwesthustla02 *Since this dumbass isn’t replying, i did it, i assume they got a lot of complaints and fixed the fitment issue because it literally went in no issue took me about 30min total*
Was your Truck wandering especially in rainy conditions. My 2003 tahoe wants to kill me on wet highways
When I did this and got to the part where the shaft is almost inserted, but not fully, I was a able to get a small but strong round screwdriver through the bolt hole and then gently tap with a hammer on alternating sides to get the alignment complete for the actual bolt to then go through. Hope it helps someone!
Hook up lower part and push up on upper, also if you pop the clips on the wheel well splash guard and remove it you get easier access.
I have a 2005 suburban 180k and just replaced the shocks/struts all the way around (original) and still feel the clunk in the steering wheel.. this is my next objective.. it would be nice to have such a smooth running power house
I had the same problem changing the sway bar links the first time AutoZone gave me the wrong ones second time they were too big because the stock sway bar links have skinny rubber boots when you buy them knew they have these big thick ones on so it's not simple at all I said the hell with it and used the old rubbers or a couple of them so it would fit going to have to go back later and adjust the sway bar to fit the new rubber bushings but it was raining last night and I just needed to put it together
I used a pair of vice grips on the shaft and tapped the vice grips with a hammer to get it in without much difficulty. I would have lost it if I had that much trouble!
Great video jimmy! Love this channel!
Not sure why you had so much trouble with install. Bottom end of shaft went together in 5 minutes. Used brake grease on both pieces. Total job time 45 minutes and I am a shade tree mechanic. However, thanks for your video - it gave me confidence to tackle the job.
Sometimes its just easier to replace the lower steering shaft as well.
Well all I can say is wow!!! Just wonder if you were to replace both shafts at same time would that make it easier to do???
Do they make the lower shift, it should make it easier if they did, especially if your truck like mine has high milage, thanks for your time
The shaft will come out through the firewall with little trouble. You don’t need to remove the boot.
Between fighting the new bearing in under the dash and fighting the lower shaft on I have to say I may just let mine knock till I sell it. I have no faith in shop mechanics giving a damn about my truck so yeah thanks alot chevy.
Great Idea,I really like the needle bearing option as well from borgesson,good job and spoting the bearings that needed grease & adding a ton of it later in your future videos to come.
Time for some transmission upgrades don't be weary of a 500 boost valve z-pack quick shift kitts,it won't be harsh but like Christmas day every day shifting.
Side Note:You can take out the restriction in the input shaft but your trans oil will back out of your torque converter if go that way not to worry just check fluid levels when running.
B&M Trans cooler is the only way to go check on some shorty heads to lighten the engine compartment even further ceramic coated ,Y pipe,spun catalytic converter,super 44 Flow Master 2 & a half outlets or for a quite ride Borla 2 & half inlet & a 2 & a quarter outlets.
Side Note: Pulstar spark plugs work, Walmart.
Upgrade to a MSD ignition coil & wires.
Fuel Injection cleaning at the dealership works 15,000 miles or more.
Thank you for the video as i have to do that to my 2007 chevy tahoe. Greatly appreciated.
Hi! I’ve been watching your videos since I discover your channel. Can you give any updates of the steering shaft after all this time. I have some play and clunking on my 2016 Chevy Silverado steering shaft. And just need some input on how is been doing and if the clunking noise has gone after all this time. Thanks and keep making awesome videos.
That makes two of us. Please let us know. Thanks
I'm going to do this as soon as I get funds. I usually unscrew it from the bottom and slide it in and out and that will stop it from clunking for a while. But ide rather do this permanent fix.
I do the same with mine. Every 4 - 5 months.
Any dorman part never fits like the original. I have cursed dorman for years. I feel your pain but great video
PHRASING!! LOL. Nice and informative, watching just to learn of potential issues. You always cover a lot of the odd info you don't find elsewhere.
dude wtf
where you have been on my life?
i have this problem on my truck for 70k now
these idiots from dealership fkn clueless.....all(not 1 deallership)
they said too many parts.... to guess.( i spent 3k changing parts including steering rack).
And look you just need one guy from youtube FOR FREE!!!
12 fkn minutes.
... for fk sakes man
the only reason i found you because its fresh video and there is only steering shaft(lower and intermediate)left to cause the problem....
thank you very much.
This is a PITA for a 2500HD turbo diesel. So much stuff in the way and the bolt on the shaft in the engine bay is a bear to loosen!
On our 2011 I had to separate the 2 shafts when doing the glow plugs on the Dmax which is directly behind it. Did both the shaft bolt and glow plug thru the drivers side fender well. After removing the fender plastic liner. Was not bad but the shaft nut was tight.
Hope this helps in the future
"Thank you, LORD". Indeed.
Did you have steering vibration before the parts change? Wondering because my silverado has steering shake?
I have a 2007 Chevrolet HHR. I took it to the shop. I was having vibration and noise when I use my brakes. They said it was my control arms. I had those replaced but I'm still having the same problems.
Wouldn't it have made sense to do the lower shaft at the same time?
Do you need a alignment after doing this job?? I have changed all my suspension everything from struds to tie rods ect.. the only thing I haven’t replace is this intermediate shaft.. after over 500$ on parts and 400$ on labor I do hope this solves my issue.. bad think is I just got a alignment and spend 80$ I don’t want to replace this part and have to do another alignment
How's the steering holding up? I am contemplating replacing mine in my 2003 Tahoe. Would you do it over?? Thank you.
Coming up on a year after replacement: has the issue been resolved? I have a 03 Yukon with a lot of play in the steering wheel and want to fix it for good.
Did you replace your shaft? Did it solve your problem with play in the wheel?
I'm about to do this to my 2004 silverado. Sorry if this is an obvious answer but, did you grease the intermediary before inserting into the lower? Almost every other video I seen, they did this. Thanks for the video though.
Where is your steering wheel position sensor??
Did you lube the new upper shaft were it engages the intermediate shaft? A heat gun might also have aided in getting the few thousandths of clearance needed. Good work, thanks for the video, my Chevys also send their regards.
Thanks for the video. I had the same experience as you with my 2005 Silverado 2500 truck. I replaced the bearing and it cured the rattling for a week or two but the rattling returned. I've now replaced the intermediate steering shaft but, unfortunately, this has not eliminated the rattle (although it's not as bad as it used to be). I'm wondering what else it might be. If anyone has any thoughts, I'd be grateful. Thanks!
Have you checked the lower shaft, idle and pitman, adjusted the slop in the steering box? Those are all things I would check. Good luck
Do you think using a tooth brush and wd40 to clean the inside of the lower could help? About to do the same job.
Great video
Good results 👍🏽
So the previous repair you said with in 4 weeks the problem was back..... how about this time? That would be good for all to know since this is such a pita repair.
My 05 GMC Yukon that i just bought makes a mild clicking noise at random times. Doesn't seem to make any operational problem. Is that what yours did?
Hey , I gotta know hows it holding up after 2 years ? I'm about to have it done monday , please I need a speedy response lol I got an 04 awd one
I drive RAV4 and I have stiff steering wheel when weather is hot. When is cold then is perfect. What to look? So, it is not like, when car is worm but when I start car I feel stiff steering wheel. In the morning on 5C everything is fine. Expecialy when is - temperature, all good.
How long did the Dorman part last? 1 week? 2 weeks? I need to replace the intermediate shaft in my escalade, but I'm going with the updated GM part. No Dorman stuff for me.
Replaced the intermediate shaft on my wifes 03 Sierra, that was four years ago, dorman part.
Will the Dorman 425-176 work on my 2003 GMC 2500 HD 6.6 Diesel? Thanks for your videos.
So I am not really getting a "Clunk" in my steering but my steering wheel is all loosey goosey... could this be the fix? I can actually move my steering shaft by hand back and forth (not like steering but move it according to the play) and get the same loose feeling when my yukon is not even turned on.
Would taking the lower out and assembling both on the bench be easier?
I see this video is 2018 but the dorman part number you used is 15.2 inches and the GM version is 16.02 inches long . maybe why it was hard to install
Great vid! Thanks! Do you know how hard to replace the steering bearing or how much a mechanic would charge? I could probably handle the intermediate steering shaft myself but if it is the steering bearing I am just wondering what I’m up against. Thank you!
Same here...lol
Do you have removing steering on 72 chev. 3/4 ton pickup
Well after a road trip to Canada and back this summer I know I’ve got to do this replacement. Any insight now in retrospect? What finally worked?
Replace both the bearing (plastic in cab) and the shaft at the same time. So far so good.
1ROAD Thanks I’ve been studying your videos for almost a year now. I’ve definitely benefited from your work. The video on knock sensors encouraged me to tackle it on my 95 gmc sierra. Keep up the awesome work 👍🏻
Great instructions. Thanks .. . 👌
_( I bet there was some cussing during this repair 😲 )_
Your videos are top buddy!! Appreciate it Jimmy!