Chevy 4.3 V6... How to Set Distributor timing. ~Its Just how I did it~.
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- Опубліковано 6 січ 2017
- Chevy 4.3 V6... How to Set Distributor timing. ~Its Just how I did it~.
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Hands down, among the best engine maintenance repair videos. Precision instructions and camera work, bonus tips on which tools to use and how to use them. Critically useful high speed efficiency tip about maintaining proper engine timing.
Nice!!
You just saved my ass, much appreciated video. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 Very informative and to-the-point, no useless music or bs. Thank you very much
thank you my friend ... my name is Carlos and I am from Puerto Rico your video was very helpful to me especially the first part! hope too see another video of yours!
I've asked for help in lost timing in a 1988 chevy s10.3.8lv6.im getting everything but help on my truck engine. can i please get a video on the 2.8l
Public i need your help on where do my number one on the cap.it self
you figured out how to get on computer goggle your engine and year model, for info on how to check timing, any library also has books with big photos to show you how to line up the rotor towards the cly, and each plug wire on cap
100'000"000'
Advise to anyone going through this..... I replaced the whole distributor unit including the cap and rotor(all new). 1 month later, the vehicle died. I figured the timing chain went and replaced it, but the real issue was the cap. Although it looked new and had no damage, it was defective. I put a used cap on and it started right up.
Thanks a Heap! Thought I was screwed when I accidentally pulled my distributor without marking it. Followed your instructions precisely, reassembled it and it fired right up! Great video.
You can turn engine over by pulling the starter relay there under the hood and use a jumper wire from battery to #87 pin hole of the relay plug in.. It'll spin the engine over
Excellent Video very detailed, straight to the point. Thank you
This video is why i was able to bring my truck back from the dead. (Had to replace my gasket for the intake manifold and forgot to mark the distributor). Got it to top dead center 3 times but was dropping the distributor on the first cylinder from what my father and my girlfriend's father had told me. Obviously it wouldn't fire because it was off damn near 180*. Watched your video, re-centered it, dropped it in, and bam. Functioning vehicle. Thank you so much!
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You are helping the world. 1000 thank yous.
Thanks bro great video you helped me out a ton. I thought I was doing right the whole time dropping it to number one I’m gonna try this tomorrow
Great video.. There's almost no excuse for a DIY job with the availability of videos and information nowadays right in front of you...
However, having the proper tools obviously helps...
Thank you so much for this video! It helped me change my distributor cap and rotor. After changing it, it started right up!
I love you man! . I was struggling for a good 3 hours until I found this video. Thanks a LOT
the new cap and rotor worked yeah it was a short in the cap or rotor put the new one on and it fired up no joke
thanks for the video especially hen you turned over your truck and it made the popping noise.
If you take the rubber cover out of the drivers side wheel well you can avoid taking everything apart under the engine and you're able to get straight at the #1 plug
Great advice!~
On my s10 I can just reach down and get it but that 10mm bolt is a hassle and a half
Thank you such a help got ran crazy watching other videos appreciate it I'll be back for sure thanks again
thank you for taking the time to make videos like this
;)
buena
TVWXMAN32 awesome job with this video. Will this also turn off the check engine light once the problem is fixed?
Very specif video in every step thanks brotha
It will work that way. However, come to my, surprise, I did a complete engine rebuild on my 4.3, Blazer. The book says to take out the #4 spark plug & it's basically the same process as indicates In this, video. You can get to the spark plug(s), easier, if you lift the body weight off of the front wheels & CAPITALIZED on the gap between the tire(s) & the fender(s.) It's much much easier to get to those spark plugs through the fender well(s.) Also, there are 2 timing marks on the harmonic balancer. Line them BOTH up on TDC, COMPRESSION STROKE? Like he showed you in this video... Going through the top is plagued with TIGHT NONSENSE. There's no excuse for putting any metal object into the cylinders on these. They are kind of idgit proof, set aside from diagnosis of engine, misfire. (Unless you have a diagnostics, "SCOPE?") These distributor caps are too, sensitive, IMHO.
Also, there's a cut out on the plate that the rotor button MOUNTS TO. Turn your engine with the ratchet VIA the belt/bolt on the, alternator (clockwise/lefty loosie, righty tighty/you don't wanna crack that 🥜 loose on the alternator, pulley.) Okay, turn the engine until the CUT OUT on the plate under the rotor button is OPEN above your cam/hall effect, sensor. You can see BOTH screws and access is, easy, with the distributor still mounted TIGHT to the, intake. *Basically* You don't have to pull the distributor and take off the gear so you can get that rotor button bracket out of your way, you can swap that cam sensor right in the, vehicle. That 💩 was made this way from the, factory. I see men doing 💩 on these things the HARD WAY? I was once one of those men. You can swap the spark plugs in less than 30mins, my way. The middle cylinder, #3/Driver side, is a biatch. I had to have a friend turn my 5/8 plug socket with a 3/4" inch wrench from the, top, while I held the socket onto the shoulders of the spark plug from the wheel well. When you put new motor mounts in the TOLERANCES become LESS than they already, we're. Prior to putting everything new in & on my engine I could change ALL of my spark plugs, alone. Thank you for your time if ur still wimme. No disrespect, intended. I only intend(ed) to be, helpful. In all reality if you intend to work on your Blazer ALOT, ALOT? Some fellaz are saying to put in like a 3" body, LIFT. I can testify that getting to the bolts in the back/firewall side of the head(s) is amongst the most challenging bolts to get to. I had to get the bolts in/out of the back of the heads at like 1/4 turn per, swipe./it eats the open end of the wrench when it gets to the, firewall/do not use a ratchet wrench(thank me, later.) To separate the motor/transmission in the vehicle you either have to knock a dent in the floor on the driver side to get that one P.I.A. bolt out. Take the body bolts out in the front & loosen the ones/body bolts in the back & raise the body, or they sell a template with rubber plugs to drill holes(s) in the, floor. I just beat mine 1/2 of a day with a piece of wood & a 5lb sledge. I beat it some more once I got my engine out but it was still challenging to get everything all back, together. I've got 11,500ish miles since I rebuilt my engine & I'm here coz mine is misfiring with everything NEW except a few, sensors. I already gutted my, converters. I did the MPFI swap & new fuel pump, as well. (too many new parts to, list.) Mine stumbles worse before it warms up, then primarily under load/climbing a hill, and if/when you put your foot in it. I had to replace the 4wd vacuum actuator on the transfer case coz it leaked trans fluid into my 4WD diaphragm/actuator that's located under the, battery. I changed the diaphragm & the parts store sold me a brand new bad vacuum switch that leaked trans fluid into my 4WD diaphragm, "again." I "think/thought" it's, fixed, on the vacuum/4wd, part? I'm not, certain. Like I say.... Diagnosis on these IMHO is sketchy.
These things are still going today!!
Yep I just Changed My Spark plugs Recently- Much easier Take the driver side tire off and go above the A-frame middle spark plug is mighty hard but I did it or you can take the steering shaft loose that’s another way to do it passenger side I took all spark plugs off through the top
Had the same thing happen on my 2003 s-10 the reluctor in the distributor broke and rotor was hitting the cap it ran but made a lot noise.good video.
Glad you fixed it!
Just so you know when you guys are making these videos you should specify what year you're working on cuz I can tell you from 2002 and up your distributor sets different your order buttons should be pointed before the 6th quite a bit before the 6th not right on the 6th cuz on the newer ones if you said it before the 6th it'll fire up and run if you set it on the 6th it will not run
Cool!
Thanks buddy just what I was needing to know..GOOD VIDEO
Nice!
awesome video!! thanks helped alot. also mention that the distributors wear out. up and down play and the gear on dist. worn out. replaced dist. cap and rotor truck runs great!!
Okay am going to try this, i replaced the intake gaskets and ever since i have had issues with my timing, three different distributors and no go, i also replaced the timing (pain in the rear), cover, mounts plugs and wires. I've been following other videos where they tell you to set the timing marks on zero and piston 1 should be dead top, but today i used my endoscope and noticed that the marks do not align with cylinder one on top. I'll try this tomorrow and post on my findings.
Nice!!
@@FixingWithPassionOkay, as predicted, the harmonic balancer has the timing marks off. My fault because the first time I removed it, I accidently attached the tool on the outer ring and it slipped out of the rest of the balancer. I was able to put them back together without realizing I moved the marks off the factory place. Anyways, I set piston one TDC and installed the distributor, but the engine hesitated to run. After turning the crank another rotation, and reseated the distributor everything aligned on perfectly and then ta-da! My engine is running good now, no misfire or check engine for misfire or correlation codes. Just my tip for those who have been struggling with this, physically check your piston and don't rely on the balancer, it could be bad because some Chevy inexperienced dork like me could had messed it up lol. Thank you so much for your clip, the other videos were correct, but your explanation took me a step further and am grateful for it 🎉😊
Thanks very helpful can't thank you enough.
Thanks!
When you pull the distributor out. At the very bottom on the distributor shaft there is a screwdriver type slot that drives the oil pump. The oil pump has a big slotted screw that the distributor shaft slides on to. To get the distributor timing and gear teeth to line up to the number one position you take a long screwdriver and put it in the hole where the distributor shaft goes. And rotate that slotted screw at the bottom a little bit clockwise with the screwdriver to get the teeth on the distributor shaft to line up to the number position. This is gonna be trial and error. You turn the screw clockwish that drives the oil pump a litte bit. Then you put your distributor shaft back in and see if the rotor cap lines up to the number one position. That slot that is at the botton of the distributor hole drives the oil pump. When you take the distributor out. Take a flashlight and look into the hole. You should be able to see the slot. You just keep rotating that slot clockwise and installing your distributor until it all lines up. It may take a little while but it will all eventually line. I hope I made myself clear. Just take the distributor shaft out and look at the very bottom. You will see what looks like the tip of a screwdriver. That tip fits into a slot/screw that drives the oil pump. That slot can be totated.
Your right...A lot of people use this method. Thanks for the reminder!~!
Yep that messes alot of people up and is good info. Another way I like is I'll rotate the rotor until it drops. Then turn your crank until the button is at the 6. Pull the distributor. Return crank to TDC and the oil pump will be aligned for the #6 drop.
Thank you for this tip! I have a video scope that connects to my scanner, my distributor is out and I was having trouble installing it since it wouldn’t sit in all the way. I will insert my video scope and adjust the slot to match the distributor gear with the oil pump slot.
Or put it in pointing to #1 and bumb the key never failed me once
@@altimategamer12 I'm catching hell getting mine to line up with number 6 . I tried using screw driver method. Number one is top dead center. I keep ending up a little before the 6 Mark or a little past.
Piece of gas hose on the end of the plug, prevents cross thread. 😁
thanks for this video much respect
Good deal.
We tried the screw driver into the #1 spark plug to determine top dead center but that did not work. It seemed like the piston was binding the screwdriver instead of pushing it out. My son ended up putting a balloon onto a rubber tubing fitting and once screwed into the #1 S.P. hole we just turned over the crank shaft until the balloon filled with air and the mark on the harmonic balancer lined up with the mark on the engine to let us know we should be at top dead center as if using a timing lite on the unit. Not sure why the screw driver trick did not work out on the 2003 4.3L chevy S-10.
Another way to tell is if the rotor points slightly clockwise from the 6, but at TDC, it is in the exhaust stroke. If it's on the compression stroke, it will point dead on the 6 at TDC. Saves some time without using a compression tester or taking off the valve cover.
True, Thanks!
TVWXMAN32 I am still learning with this motor. Its videos like yours that have helped me put some of the puzzle pieces together. My Blazer was out of commission for about 8 months. Not because of this. But basically because I haven't really had very much time to work on it. I had to change the intake manifold gasket which wasn't really too bad. But the distributor had me baffled for a while because the old one didn't have any way of telling where it was sitting as someone ground off the "6" tab before I bought the truck. So I replaced the distributor. Now it just needs plugs, oil change, coolant flush, new battery. It should run like a champ once that stuff is done. You have no idea how pumped I am to be driving my baby again. Thank you again for your help. You rock!
Hopefully you live were it snow....these things go great in the snow!
TVWXMAN32 mine is only rwd. But it is still great in the snow. A nice set of Goodyear Wranglers makes driving in snow a breeze.
O yea! So true.
Can u please tell me if my timing is off - 7 would that effect gas mileage? It seems to be running rich also, lots of fumes from exhaust
Die electric grease on the glass part of spark plug should prevent the rubber socket insert from sticking to your socket! It's good to use dielectric grease on all electrical connectors, spark plug and distributor parts. connectors
Yea works.
your video absolutely saved the day, our truck, my sanity and most importantly, my boyfriends' sanity and his job!! (needs our vehicle repaired to drive it to get to the job site) WONDERFULLY informative, insightful, and understandable. THANK YOU for sharing your knowledge. Love, love, love the internet, youtube and folks like you!!
Thanks!
Another 4.3 saved here. I did intake gaskets and it would start hard but run good for about 2 weeks then it wouldn't start anymore. I followed your procedure and found that the oil pump slot was a tooth off. Starts really well now. Thanks a bunch.
Nice!!!
How was it acting before you moved oil pump slot? Crank but no start? Back firing? Lmk thanks
The rotors on those 4.3s retard in phase to the timing as the timing chain wears. The distributors are not adjustable unless you modify the hold down clamp. The timing chains don't skip teeth, they just wear until they break.
@@markschmalenberger8301 mine was off because i put it back in wrong but it ran for a couple of weeks then it wouldn't start anymore
@@robbt1975 yes crank backfire tried to go but not quite
Great video thanks for the help
Put a little piece of rag in the #1 spark plug hole and turn motor over slowly; as soon as rag blows out will be on #1 compression stroke (just back it back up and feel w/screwdriver)
I found that you can tear off a paper shop towel and stick it in the hole just a bit where the spark plug for the #1 cylinder goes. When it blows the piece of paper out then you know you’re on the compression stroke.
True! Thanks for the tip.
Nathan Rohrbough Thank you for the video, info..
sounds great..but,how the heck can you see that? so cramped in engine area
When I see the paper blow out across the steering column I know it’s on the upstroke.
Good tip
Great video nathan
Ty sir wat i needed
great video, sir!! Thanks!!
I'm having a PO300 code on my 2003 S10 4.3L New Dist cap and rotor button so far. still setting code.
also, it only sets the code of i drive over 65 plus MPH
Thanks!!
most defiantly i will going to get it in the next day or two
scottymizzo415 there's nothing like a defiant mechanic, kudos!
Thanks for video
Wordy!
Hold finger in #1 spark plug hole. Have helper bump ingnition till it blows finger out of hole. Then put a screw driver in hole and put socket on bolt on bottom pully and breaker bar. With one hand turn motor. With other hand use screw driver to insure piston is high as possible. Then you are on top dead center. Then place wires in synch with firing order. Otherwise you have a timing gear chain problem
Thank you sir!
Roger dodger....;)
I have a 03 Blazer, same engine. Having trouble.. replaced the lower and upper manifold gaskets, (first time ever doing something like this). I didn't know the camshaft had to go in the very exact same way it came out. I just popped it in and put everything back together and it wouldn't start. Before the gasket blew the Blazer ran great, not a single problem. Put everything back together after watching this video and it'll crank up but sounds like crap? Any ideas??
On my 97s10 4.3l I used a rubber hose and a dog toy wisle the air going through the hose blows the whistle put the hose in the number1 spark plug hole with the plug out.turn the balancer till it stops making sound that's TDC. That's the compression stroke it will only blow on that stroke.later on I bought the tool that screws in the hole making it a one man operation.
Getting ready to do a tear down of my 2004 S-10 4 door ZR5 with 4wd. Hasn't been started in over a year, lived out in the desert for about a year in a half, and the truck sat the entire time through freezing temps during the winter, and sand storms during the summer and harvest seasons. I'm almost afraid to see what it looks like.
I might just chop it up and tube frame the truck, Convert it to 2wd and make it a prerunner with I-beam suspension.
I hope the block and cracked from freezing weather
@@jimmysapien9961 lmfao, okay little kid.
liked your video, but you stated the #1 plug was driver side front, but close up shot of the cap shows center plug driver side to be #1, i'm going to replace my 1998 4.3 distributor and would really appreciate if you could give me some feedback on the correct firing order. thanx again for all the great info that you share with everyone
Number one cylinder on the engine is front cylinder on the driver's side. On the 4.3, the number one plug wire will go to the center outlet (on the driver's side) of the distributor cap. Number 3 cylinder goes to the front outlet, number 5 to the back outlet. The passenger side is easy because they are in order, front cylinder (#2), front outlet, middle cylinder (#4), middle outlet, rear cylinder (#6), rear outlet.
Thank You
Thank you!!!
so it will run even if its on exhaust?i think thats where i set mine .i bought one non running i changed the distibutor it started idles fine but has a bad miss if driving and pops and back fires if u give has
DID YOU EVER FIND OUT WHAT YOUR PROBLEM WAS I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM
Does this work on a 4.3 88 S10 carbureted? Mine left me stranded twice. I'm mechanically inclined but I usually deal with japanese cars and I understand that the older s10 doesn't have a crank position sensor. Thx for any info.
Very helpful your video ...thanks body...
Happy to help
Thanks for the video. I just did my lower intake manifold gaskets and I believe I am slightly off as well. It hard starts and throws a P1345 code (crankshaft position, camshaft position correlation.) The timing being off is the only thing I can think of.
Maybe but does it have hwy full power driving?
If u jack the front up and pull the wheels the plugs are very easy to get to on the s-10
Great!!
This took the bru-ha-ha out of the distributor change dread, you champ you......thanks.
Yea total work!
All u have to do to get to number one plug or any plugs on s10 is jack up truck put jack stands and u can get to plugs dont even have to take front wheels if u have swivel on spark plug socket but might help to take off wheels if u have big tires
K.
sir could u plz tell me 1 thing my engine easily started chevy gm 4.3 l vortec v6 but after 30 sec to 1 mnt its auto stoped no problem with fuel plugs and lead change them all plz timming is ok now ???
Good video ..it helps a lot ..
Great!
If you put a pice of paper towel in the spark plug hole when it gets to top dead center on the #1 compression stroke it will pop the paper towel out and you’ll know it’s on TDC
You just saved my daughter's car from going to the junk yard! Cause I was frustrated!
Which mark on the flywheel is the right one to time a chevy astro, the first or the second?
Do I have to disconnect the positive cable from the alternator in order to rotate?
Gracias 🙏🏼
Thanks, I broke the cheap replacement distributor cap, bolt off, in my 2000 Jimmy (spider replacement job), so now have to pull the distributor. Great camera work, particularly the zooming. What was the camera?
JVC
This video was priceless when trying to retime my blazer. And it worked! THx)
Nice!!
Thank you, very helpful. I just did a whole gaskets replacement and new clutch. I think I set the timing on the exhaust stroke. Can't wait to get home and fix it!
Meant to update sooner, this the perfect way to set timing without wrenching on the crank bolt. Works every time
so lets say distrib tooth broke or popped out and now i get a p1345 code in 4.3 blazer? how to set timing ? i bought blazer and the distributor was popping up and down ..so i tightened bolt...over last few days it seems to be running worse...thinking gears were damaged on distrib...i can buy a nother distrib just want to make sure timing is correct...any help is appreciated...thanks
Yea these 4.3 are fun to work on....ha ha....NOT! Happy Fixing.
So do you think p1345 code could just be be because cap when bad? i guess that could be the case...it makes sense..years ago i used to replace them a lot...Also i never remember having to lift up distributor when replacing cap and rotor...did you just do that for extra fun? or is it required for the 4.3? thax
thanks alot had a truck down two weeks
Nice!
Hey man. My truck runs decent but idles rough and throws a code that makes me think that the engine is slightly out of time. I bought it cheap because the guy installed a new distributor and it wasn’t running perfect. I think that it may be a tooth off in timing. I will be setting the engine to top dead center on the compression stroke and then seeing if the button lines up with the 6. If it is off, do you lift it out turn that flat bar with a screwdriver, rotate one tooth and then set it back down in there?
thanks bud excellent tutorial. if you still look at the comments, do you know what the white wire is that sticks out like a sore thumb between the distributor and throttle body, its connected to what appears to be a harness of some sort that connects to the block that has PED stamped on it. the end of mine is loose, i dont believe it has copper wire in it
TATA İNDİCA DEVİRDAİM DEĞİŞİMİ
Timing setup procedure double VANOS BMW E46,E39,E60,E83,E85 M52TU,M54,M56 330,325,320
Chevy 4.3 V6... How to Set Distributor timing.
Does this also work for a 5.7 vortec? (350)
To get to the plug it’s easier to go through the wheel well if you have an impact (if you have to take forever to take the wheel off maybe not
How do you fix one if it jumped time without the cap and rotor button on it and wasn’t paying attention when you did take it off when it was turned over
Question.. i used screw driver like you said to get TDC in cyc 1...with cap off rotor did not line up like you explained wether it was exhaust or compression stroke i was not sure,but it was off 30 degrees or so.....i removed distributor and it seemed fine..gears look good...the shaft of distributor did have approx 1/8 inch up and down play...So can a distributor skip a gear without any visible signs??? thax for you help
Yep sure can on the cam...or on the timing chain.
@@FixingWithPassion if it were timing chain would code p1345 show...I ordered a a cam sensor and cap and rotor..I might order a crank sensor also...I will test it to see if it bad first..I hope it's nothing serious. Thax
@@roadstar499 what was it? Got the same code replaced the sensor and that wasn’t it🙄
hopefully u can help. i replaced the distributor on my blazer. it's started just fine everything good, the next day i turn it on and the check engine light is on and it feels like i'm running on 2 cylinders , very weak and very quiet, i have straight pipe and it sounds like i have a muffler???
Same issue.
i bought a 1998 blazer non running i took the distrubtor out and put it tdc and it started but runs terrible after 2500 rpm ad have a code p1345 cam crank correlation.
Same here
Good videi
How long after installing this new cap did you have the same problem? These distributors are notorious for drawing moisture which in turn corrodes the cap terminals, I’ve owned my 02 blazer ZR2 4.3 for 3 years and have to replace the cap once a year faithfully. They do have updated distributors that solved that problem, I know I’ll eventually be replacing mine. Excellent video, thanks 👍
The distributors are just fine as long as there is no axial play in the shafts movement. Being as these distributors still use a mechanical secondary switching means(cap&rotor) and a computer primary, as the timing chain wears the rotor goes out of phase retards at the terminal positions. The increased gap at firing time is the problem,especially in damp conditions. This occurs at about 150,000 miles or so on up. The solution scribe the distributor body to manifold position then move distributor slightly to the advanced direction. Of course you should maybe plan on replacing the timing chain set& turning distributor back to original factory setting.i'll bet every distributor ever replaced on these engines were perfectly OK.
@@markschmalenberger8301 that's a stretch since the teeth on the distributor gear is known to wear out and cause timing issues as well
have a question. What do you mean "feel cylinder 1 up"? when you stuck the screwdriver in? What were you suppose or how do you feel that?
Cylinder number 1. Bring it to top dead center. You can feel when the piston comes all the way to the top with a screwdriver. Hope that helps.
TVWXMAN32 thanks for the reply. Do you leave the screwdriver in cylinder 1 while turning the alternator?
That's what I did. Although the belt might have a tendency to slip . The crank pulley would be better but it hard to get to ;(
Okay. Will give it it a try tomorrow. I changed the fuel pressure regulator today. Had to remove the distributor to gain access and think i reinstalled it back wrong messing up the timing. Engine wouldnt start and can hear weird sound while crank. Thanks for the video!
Ok Let us know if you fix it!
How would I get tdc if the distributor is out, or if timing jumped, I wouldn't be able to look at the rotor or crank the motor over to feel the air in the cylinder
You won't
What if the pump gets misaligned? And it don't line up as your video shows? I removed my distributor and tried to install a new one . Yes I did mark the old position but the pump won't line up to allow it to sit flat on the 6 mark.
Same
Great video. After watching, I'm sure I can replace my noisy distributor.
Nice!
The # 1 plug should be a straight shot through the wheel well opening it's a lot easier
Nice to know.
Jack up the driver side, and remove the tire. The plugs are right there staring you in the face when you do so. Makes it MUCH easier, especially when changing plugs on these vehicles with the 4.3L
Well there is some room...but it still is tight.
What if the rotor is not on the 6? How do you fix it? mine is out of alignment.
Anyone else experiencing 2000 plus rpm idle after changing out the distributor
Broken vacuum?
Somewhere?
The stock plugs on this engine for the 95 GMC are actually too long for the socket. If you put an extension directly into the socket you risk damaging the plug, it's best to use a 19 mm to go around the end of your spark plug socket
Nice!!
Great video! I'm getting ready to do this for my Dad's '03 Blazer and your video is the best one I've seen so far explaining in detail what to do. I have a few questions though.. 1. How many turns of the socket to the nut in front of the alternator are equal to 1 engine rev? In your case, when you removed the cap, your rotor was @ 3 o'clock, but if when we do it, it's somewhere else, say at 12 o c'clock for example. Then, to get the rotor at 9 o clock position(on #6), how much does the the alternator socket needs to be rotated to get the #1 cylinder in the up most position? 3. Since you didn't show that part, can the alternator nut be turned(engine revs) while looking at the rotor moving to get it exactly at 9 o 'clock(#6) position? Sorry for the many questions, doing this for the first time.. Thanks in advance..
It took gosh...5-10 turns....if you belt don't slip. All you need to do it get 1" piston top dead center and look at the rotor button and see where its pointing. If its pointing at the little #6 on the cap then you should be right on the money. You just have to play around with it and you will get the hang of it.
TVWXMAN32 Thanks!
Just keep this in mind. One full rotor rotation is 2 full crank turns. You could use a 16mm socket directly on the crank bolt and go off the timing mark. That means getting under the truck though.
True....and there is hardly no room down there ;(
@@FixingWithPassion thats the 2.8 not the 4.3
BRING TO TOP DEAD CENTER ON NUMBER ONE CYLINDER ,IS THE BEST WAY TO BE SHURE YOUR TDC YOU COULD ALSO END UP 180 DEGREES OUT ,WITH NO START
I WHICH CASE YOU WOULD NEED TO BRING TO TDC AGAIN AND SPIN IT 18O DEGREES.
ALSO THERE IS A TIMING MARK ON CRANK .IF YOUR PISTON DOESNT COME TO TDC ON NUMBER ONE YOU ARE 180 DEGREES OUT KEEP ROTATING ENGINE TILL IT DOES.
GAD SOME ONES GONNA GET SCREWED UP FROM THIS VIDEO.
If you get a replacement distributor cap and rotor can you put the new one back in the same spot in same position
Yes , you just put rotor in same position.. you don’t need to be at TDC to replace cap and rotor
Wish #3 Spark Plug was easy to get to like #1 and #5
I know right!~
#3 is a pain in my rear.
I just put a finger full of air and tied like a balloon off a nitrile/latex glove into the spark plug hole. On compression it will blow it out of the hole. It won't come out on the exhaust stroke
I got a 1995 GMC Sonoma 4 x 4 and I’m having timing issues with it I drop in the distributor just like you’re doing and it will not start but now if I move the piston from the timing marks to true top dead center and drop the piston or the distributor back in pointing to number one on the It’ll run without the cam sensor plugged in how is that possible
If TDC doesn't match the timing marks then it's likely to have jumped time
So…. With number one cylinder up, rotor should point to SIX??
When you’re replacing the entire rotor with a new one, do you grease the bottom where the gears drop in?
Yea.
I was driving and heard a little bang and the engine just quit and won't restart... Is it possible the distributor went bad that suddenly? It was running perfect before that.
Or the timing chain ;((
If you get a replacement distributor can you put the new one back in the same spot in same position
Assuming it's in time you absolutely can
I have a 96 chevy blazer ls that i just bought a week ago and its throwing code p0306 the truck shakes especially at idol and the service engine light is flashing we already replaced the spark plugs as well as the distributor cap as bought the spider fuel injectors brand new and is still throwing the same code what else could it be?
And it ain't set exactly on #6