Distributor Replacement How To Chevy Vortec 5.7 and TDC Compression Stroke
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- This should cover anything you need to about Distributor replacement for Chevy V8 Vortec engines.
I also have a shortened version for those more familiar with the process. • Chevy Vortec V8 5.0, 5...
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This video is the new standard by which I will judge how-to videos. Great job, thank you!
Followed these directions, and successfully replaced a worn out unit without any problems.
Great video. Thanks
I’m replacing lower intake manifold gasket and found this video - best and most useful video I’ve seen.
Thank you
I am here for the same reason, manifold gaskets, what a bitch to replace.
This man is the only person that’s spitting facts on UA-cam in this subject. Take notes y’all. I got everything dialed in first try. Thanks man
He qed
Alternate method for finding TDC when you're on your own and no compression gauge or any other precision equipment...
Remove plug wire and plug from #1 cylinder.
You'll make several trips back and forth, but either bump the motor several times, using the ignition key or a breaker bar and the appropriate sized socket to fit the bolt in the middle of the balancer, until you first start seeing the timing mark on the balancer starting to come around to the mark on the block or timing tab.
Using a screwdriver, push one of those red shop rags into the #1 spark plug hole in the head. You aren't trying to jam the whole rag into it, but in fact, most of the rag will remain outside. Just make sure you have enough in that it feels like there isn't any more room.
Go back and start bumping the ignition key again in short bursts.
After several tries, one of two things will happen:
1) Nothing. Take a peek at those timing marks on the balancer and the timing tab or block. If they are lined up or if the mark on the balancer has gone past the one on the tab or block, then you are at or past TDC on the #1 cylinder. The problem is that you are at TDC of the exhaust stroke. Go back and bump the motor again in short bursts until the mark starts on the balancer starts coming around again, and pay attention to what happens in scenario 2.
2) Assuming you have enough of the rag stuffed into the #1 spark plug hole, the closer you are getting to TDC on the compression, or intake stroke, the more compression starts building in the cylinder, and as the piston gets to the top of its stroke, it will blow the rag out of the hole and make a noise somewhere between a pop and a bang. Turn the motor over with a breaker bar and a socket until the two marks are perfectly lined up. Congratulations, you have found TDC on the correct cylinder in the correct phase of the piston's travel.
I've done this on some pretty tired engines of my own with weak compression, and as long as there is at least something in the way of compression, it will blow the rag out.
Just an alternate method for locating TDC if you find yourself in need and don't have the correct diagnostic equipment at your immediate disposal.
Thank you for that info!!!
Why do this on this guys video...make your own...
Because we are already here for related information so tips and tricks are helpful in the comments.
Could you just take the#1 plug out and use a straw or a chopstick and insert it in the plug hole, turn the harmonic balancer with a 16mm socket and line up the TDC using the mark on the balancer and the notch on the timing chain cover?
@@davegibson3763
I'm not sure. What is the chopstick or straw for? What happens after putting it in the spark plug hole, and what happens to them when you rotate the balancer?
..'99 Suburban with this 5.7 Vortec...have owned 2 '89 Trucks with 5.7 TBI...everyone said, "Get the 5.7 Vortec, more power, better heads, etc., etc. ,it's better"..so I did, in the Suburban...well, I tell you, I'll take the TBI 5.7 any day..simpler, less complicated sh@t and less crappy plastic parts...5.7 Vortec= sh@tty 2-piece plastic intake with failure-prone gaskets, complicated "spider" fuel injection setup that is faiure-prone and troublesome, crappy distributor with weak distributor cap "ears" that break off easily when installing a new cap, really crappy distributor cap design prone to internal shorts, stupid cam position sensor...and so on, and so forth.....the 5.7 TBI is more solid and sensible, and everything is more accessible simply because there is less sh@t under the hood. 5.7 Vortec more power?...maybe on paper, but not to me...maybe it's because the Vortec is in a Suburban and the TBI's were in trucks...my Vortec has never ran as strong as the TBI's did....
Yeah I agree with you there. Even better though is 5.3 and 6.0. More power and way less complicated. Super easy to work on and much more reliable than the old 5.7s
..Glad to hear those engines (5.3, 6.0) are easy to work on and reliable...they are too "newfangled" for me, I have always been leery of anything that has coil packs(heard the stories about the Ford engines blowing out spark plugs and coil packs), no distributor, and camshaft position sensors (didn't know the 5.7 Vortec had a cam sensor until after I got it)...the '99 Suburban is the newest GM vehicle I have, we also have an '05 and an '06 Dodge Durango...they have been surprisingly reliable(except for camshaft position sensor issues)...the '06 has 127,000 on the clock, the '05 has 318,000 on it, still runs solid, except having to replace the cam sensor about once a year. Something seems unnerving and less foolproof about having a sensor and computer keeping the engine running in time versus a physical mechanical setup.....@@AppalachianDIY
1700 miles from home my 7.4 dumped it's coolant on the motel parking lot over night.. Had to pay a dealer $750 to replace the intake gaskets...I assume the dealer mechanic tried to swag stabbing the distributor using some marks he had made rather than finding TDC...He knew he got it off one tooth because he had the distributor rotated as far as he could get it clockwise before the cap started hitting the intake plenum just to get it to the point it would at least idle so they could send me on my way... needless to say it didn't seem to run just right and about 60 miles down the road it threw a p1345... Nursed it home... pulled the distributor....found TDC, stabbed it by the book, set the correlation ...good to go... There is a mechanic working at a Chevy dealer in west Texas that would greatly benefit from watching your video.....
Very informative .I don`t think you can go wrong with the timing after watching this video.
Details are important and you’re very detailed and patient with explaining the process
Thanks also I subbed
Hey thanks, glad you could get some use of it
Thank you for this! After replacing the head gaskets on my Chevy I wasn't able to start it and it would sound like a 9mm went off half the time I cranked it. This gave me the knowledge to figure out the timing and get it running. Never knew the distributor needed to be adjusted. The guy didn't really mention this with in the 1A auto video I watched. Again thank you I am going to keep my truck now.
Man me to my 2000 Chevrolet 3500 5.7, I chanced the intake gaskets they were leaking bad and it did not want to start I took it to a mechanic and it said that I needed a new motor I told him that it was running perfect before I did the gaskets but he said that it needed a new engine so. I forgot about it and it Been 10 years and because of money I did not get a second opinion but now that is tax season I will invest for another mechanic and see if it works again.
I had the exact same problem. I also watched the 1A Auto vid, and seemed like the guy was quite misleading in a lot of things lol. Oh well 😂
I too watched the Rock A1Auto video and have just watched this video and am moving forward with the installation of a new distributor in about 30 min. I appreciate the detail In explanation you provided Chris. Your video is longer than most, but for good reason. It’s thorough and educative and I appreciate you taking the time to do so. Wish me luck, and thanks again!!! I’m subscribing and look forward to many more vids to help me with with my ‘97 Chevy Z71.
Bumping the starter can throw u off a tooth or two. Careful yall
Thank you for the details this helped me a lot in my first time installing a new distributor. In reference to the old hold down clamp with and aftermarket distributor, I realized the clamp that came with my summit distributor did not allow me to rotate the distributor to make adjustments with the scan tool after it was all back together. I had to take everything back off and use the old clamp that let me finish the job. Just wanted to throw that in here in case some one was in my position and can avoid doing more work than necessary. Thanks for the video!
Dam now I can touch my Distributor I was so scared of that dam thing
Followed instructions and still back firing, no start
😂
Hey, thanks...you've demystified the distributor...I am a liver transplant doctor and now I can also transplant a distributor...great video!
Very cool. Glad it helped! And thanks for your service in the medical field. We need more of you!
I was putting a new cap and rotor on and the dam plastic distributor broke at the bolt to hold the cap on!!!!!!!
😂
someone probably already mentioned 11:40 shows the distributor cap split along the edge of the bottom left on the camera or #8 cylinder port where the top plastic mold was joined with the bottom
You sure made this simple process very complicated
I learned a long time ago take out sparkplug to #1 cylinder and put a wad of toilet paper or a rag into plug hole and bump ignition till paper or rag popped out. Than line up harmonic balancer line up to timing cover line and now you are at top dead center on #1. Funny years ago at a drilling rig at night I saw a few guys trying to install a distributor on a 4 cylinder Japanese pickup. I would see fire shooting up the carb and roughnecks couldn't get it to start. I went up to them offered help they accepted begrudgingly and within a bit pickup was purring.
I followed your instructions exactly on my ‘98 Chevy 5.7 and it won’t start at all. Any ideas?
Just wanted to say thank you you help me so much
What I dont understand is that if i had to turn my motor to tdc before anything. And then if I had to bump the motor for the distributor to fall in the the cylinder will not be at top dead center no more
I wondered the same, I THINK it's because the gear will engage enough to stay in Time because it's so tall so the distributor moves in time with the engine. Then once the oil pump shaft lines up it can drop down to be flush
I have been fighting with mine for months lining it up the wrong way, the way you said to do it made it ssooooooo much easier where i can actually understand. Thank you
I deleted my other comment because i did not watch to the point on were you introduced your new distributor. It is the same exact as mine. With the 8 stamped in a different place and the mark at the bottom does not line up with the contact at point one. From what i understand is the only thing i need to worry about it making sure the contact point is on cylinder one contack point.
This video helped me a lot now I have my Chevy back on the road . Very great video. Extremely great details
Thanks
Thank you very much for making this video. I had the exact same replacement distributor and I never would have known it was different from the original. Lining up the dimple and painted line was a big help. I ended up having to stick a long screwdriver down the distributor hole to line up the oil pump so it was longitudinal to the engine block, and then the distributor dropped in so that I was able to plug in the cam sensor. Thanks again!
I didn't see him point to the timing balancer or cover. I didn't see him hand turn the engine. I'm totally lost.
The first minute of the video shows the alignment of timing marks .
11:32 I've done everything right even on the compression stroke n didn't start until I switched the rotor only the opposite way and started right up..? But my app on phone tells me it's -6.2 cmp
What app are you using?
That alignment procedure wont work with every distributor. A lot of these Chinese ones are not made the same. The one I did a week ago on a customers truck had a different rotor. The alignment was the arrow on the body of the distributor and the square notch on the rotor. And if your going to do this with any frequency make a tool for the oil pump. I took a cheap long flat screwdriver and welded an old socket on it that is slightly larger than the oil pump. So the screwdriver blade is in the middle of the socket and flush with bottom. I use a white out pen to mark the top of the rotor with a line thats in the same direction as the bottom of the distributor. Then you drop the distributor in, and if it doesnt fall into place you know what direction to turn the oil pump in. Pull it out, turn the oil pump in the same direction that the line was in on the rotor, and it will fall right into place. Might sound complicated but it takes me about 2 minutes to have it in place this way.
Not jumping the video, its a good video just noticed the cheap distributor my customer bought would not be lined up if you followed this.
I am having the same issue with an aftermarket distributor with no mark on it to line up. I've pulled plug 1 and set TDC crank line up. Use the method shown to line up rotor correctly for truck ul and it still runs rough or pops.?? I will kee pool trying. New clamp does not provide for any movement for the distributor once installed as the older clamp seems like it is so loose that while driving the distributor would move while driving and throwing the timing off on its own?
@@williamallen7882 As long as your on the powerstroke you should be lined up and pointing at #1 plug. If your a tooth off in either direction it will be way off. Might be dumb question but are you sure you were exactly TDC on compression stroke?
I used the original clamp on the new distributor. Its supposed to be in the right position, but I had a CEL and moving it slightly took care of that.
@@motorcitywestauto4674 So, yes I was set to TDC lined up with pulling the #1 sparkplug. I used a 16mm deep socket and a 2" extension and a 1/2" long handle ratchet to turn the crank and line up markings exact.Worked great. So i did find that after trying several times to set the rotor towards #1 cylinder it would not fire off properly. Firing order from drivers side to passenger is 1-7-3-5, and passenger is 8-2-4-6-c on the 5.7l vortec. The truck jumped time and cap blew off originally. But try I'll ng this method on here I kept back firing and wouldn't run. At one time I thought I'd blown an intake gasket. I had remembered at one time that the distributor seemed off by this method. So off memory the distributor was set approx at 6 o'clock where the screw hole is for the cap and the rotor I set more towards 4 o'clock position. It fired up on it's own without s jump this time from my 2500 hd. Ran rough but not too shabby. I knew then I was off a bit. TDC again and I placed the rotor approx at 4.5- to 5 o'clock final position and it fired up on it's own and was running at approx 1k rpm and idled down to 600 rpm. It runs as smooth as a baby's butt now. I mean it took me quite a few tries due to not having a mark to go by of the existing but i finally got it and without a timing light or a scan device. Just persistence. Test drove up to 75mph and no issues thus far. Thanks for giving me a starting point. But my 98 5.7l is more @ 4.5 to 5 set with rotor starting point while TDC on Sparkplug#1
Had to replace my lifters and pushrods in my motorhome. Ended up doing it myself as I discovered no shop will touch a motorhome engine. Your vid gave me the confidence to do it myself. Just finished today and this vid was a great help. The motorhome started right up!
Thank you so much.
Dan Young
Denver CO
Thanks for making this video!🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
But when you bump the starter doesn't that change your timing. The rotor is going to move ? Correct ? so then your timing marks like the #8 will move ?
Fought with timing for several hours last night, watched this video, followed his tips and had truck running in about 20 mins. Listen to this guy, he knows his stuff!
THanks man. Glad it worked out for you
Thank you Sir for this in-depth tutorial.
HE TALKS FOR 16 + min's and you say it looks easy ---------- A picture is worth a thousand words so long
By far the best video on this. Big fan of the "my buddy teaching me" style. No bs. Keep them coming.
outstanding !!! best ever on you tube!
My question... may be a dumb one but shit idk.... when I drop it in it falls right into place. But the oil pump isn't lined up. So when I bump it and it finally falls into place it's no longer pointed at the number 1 cylinder... now what? What am I doing wrong? Please and thanks
such a great video. wasn’t hard to watch and there was no useless information to skip through
Great video perfect explanation!..👍🏽
Thank you so much for this video. I just did lifters on my 99 Tahoe and the only thing I got wrong was the distributor. You literally helped me set the truck with no marks on it back to normal with no codes. Thank you again.
Best DIY on dissy that I can find on the internet for the vortec v8. Thanks for your video and now I can be confident changing mine tmr. Did you need a timing light after and how long did your dissy last?
Thank you so much for making this very helpful and efficient video. Really appreciate you taking the time to explain things in great detail as well as great camera footage. Thanks a lot!
Very Good job. What I use when I am alone to find compression stroke is, I take a piece of napkin or shop towel and press in the sparkplug hole with a screwdriver. When the cylinder builds compression paper pops out, you are on compression stroke. Hope this helps someone else.
Very well done James. This is where a lot of people get into trouble with the Vortec platforms is over thinking "timing" like with older more conventional distributors. We all have to conform to changes in familiar platforms and the Vortec Distributors are a perfect example of this. They're actually much easier to swap out than conventional distributors and to get right the first time. Cheers! Zip~
Aced Dat!! 🤘😎🤙
Thanks brother i will try to fix mine following you instructions . You explained everything .i supped to ur channel
Definitely the Tom Brady of distributor installation. Thank you.
lol, thanks
The best video I have ever seen on how to install the distributor on my truck . I just need to put it on the correct timing but I will save this video for future reference when I install a new one later on . You are the perfect instructor for this job cause you cover all the details very specifically . Thank you very much my brother for doing it for us. God keep blessing you . 👍🍺
Thank you for taking the time to help others.😎👍 Your a gentleman and a scholar
Very comprehensive and straight forward
I understand this whole process. Minus finding tdc. I had it started and running smooth, good idle. But was obvious wasn’t right after a test drive. The mark in the balancer always seems too pass the notch at tdc. How too get it there. I’m shooting funshots on start up
Dude you over complicated stuff at one point you said if you have the valve cover off then just look at the valves open and close to see when your in compression cycle right, I'm willing to bet a nickel that if people have there valve cover off already they already know how to install there distributor ok so it's useless information and confusing...I say all that only cause it confused the hell out of me...
Ok so instead remove spark plug for cylinder no. 1 stuff a small wad of tp or a piece of paper napkin just make sure to kinda plug the hole up dont dare try or even think of stuffing it as if it was a turkey ok you then remove the distributor cap so the engine won't start bump the key ok as soon as its in compression cycle the air will blow the tp or napkin off then simply rotate engine with a socket on the main pulley and line up your timing marks done your TDC
NOW you mark your rotor with a permanent maker to where it's pointing remove the distributor screw holding it down in its place now slowly pull distributor up and pay very very good attention cause you now have to set a second mark on distributor cause it will rotate cause of the gear it has at the bottom that engages with your cam ok
Now to install transfer your two marks over to new distributor and make sure your rotor is pointing to the second mark you made ok as the distributor drops in place it's going to rotate the same amount it did as when you removed it ending up pointing to your original and first mark you made when you first removed the cap
Now if all this is done correctly the timing will be just as it was before you started. Not to difficult but it's very very important that you pay close attention to exactly what your doing and have no distractions. It's also recommended to take video and/or plenty I mean lots of pictures. I personally take a photo of whatever I'm removing right before I do like every nut,bolt,screw,hose,belt,clip well you get the picture ok (lol)
Maybe try this method out
Disclaimer: I'm not s certified mechanic so don't take this as true and correct in any way shape or form I truly recommend you to seek a certified professional mechanic and I will not be held responsible for any and/or all damages or failures that can occur your at your own risk
Excellent video bud. Really saved me. Thank you
2 different 97 chevy trucks vortec 5.7 and both don't run right after doing exactly this. I've replaced many distributors in my life but for some reason the 5.7 vortec just won't time right. I've done everything properly and still not right. No engine light but I have misfire and smells bad. Yes wires are in correct order yadda yadda. I'm parting out both trucks now. I'm done with it.
I watched another video and it didn’t tell me about how it could be 180 degrees out even if the line lines up on the timing cover and I fucked my shit up but this video saved my ass
Great video.....my dad used to just put paper towel on the spark hole and turn crank and once you here a pop from compression blowing paper towel out you know your on compression
Dude you are a true lifesaver
My CAM retard was off -65 when the shop installed it. They didnt want to mess with it more because i had brought in my own part. After watching this video, I'm trying to install it myself. However my concern is how can I make sure the CAM retard is 0 where it needs to be without a scanner. I just don't want to pay so much for that kind of scanner tool although it's worth the purchase. I want to know if there is any way to do without a scanner. I also have a question as long as if I align the distributor the way you mentioned, does that confirm CAM retard? Or does the engine need to be turned? I keep hearing that engine needs to be turned someway what not.
i have the 5.7 in my truck and with in the last 1-2 years ive replaced the cap and rotor at least 5-7 times. The contacts are always either turquoise or thick white corrosion . The base of the distrputor ( inside on top) has rust on it . And there always seems to be a few specs of oil on top of the rotor button .Seems like its time to replace the distributor ?
im just gonna say it if you dont mark it your dodge power rammed. its impossible to find the right angle on oil pump shaft where the rotor ends up pointing at cylinder one. im not talking about turning it with screw driver im talking when distributor finally seats i can never get it pointing at 1
I have 1996 Chevy 5.7 vortex I in plugged my cam shaft position sensor an truck is still running
Best vid EVER. Thank you!!
What can be the purpose of making marks on a distributor that you are changing …? Very Helpful video overall. How much rotation should be between the rotor plate and the distributor shaft,if any ?
Im confused. Whenever you have rhe distributor set into place but it doesnt go all the way down and you bump the ignition until it seats wouldnt that mess up TDC and the rotor allignment?
I have a 1996 Chevy C1500 5.7L vortec. I dont have the wires on the harnes for the camshaft just can not find them any help? Thanks
I learned a ton thank you, I followed your steps to the TTTTT but still no start. Must be an issue somewhere else.
Talk about going around your elbow to get to your ass! Is somebody going to tell me this is better than the 95's and earlier?😡
First, I want to say thank you,you put love in how to explain,thank you thank you,my question is ,I put my new one without mark nothing,now I have to fix timing but I already try to start my truck couple times,do that’s going to be worse to fix the timing?
If u bump starter it won't be on TDC especially if someone installed one incorrectly and moved that oil pump gear. Just saying it happened to me
But when you do with starter the piston #1 don't move from the TDC??? Can be the same for 2000 454??
ive followed everything you did. i pulled mine out without marking it. but its impossible to line oil pump shaft to where distriibuter drops down pointing to number one
great job, thanks for the education, what is accessible movement for the rotor when installed i have some movement ? I have spark and gas, 62psi on the rail, it cranks but no start, will start and run for a while when i put gas down the intake . thinking the Spyder injectors
You don't need to do all of this just to change rotor and cap do you..on a 1996 Chevy suburban 1500 ls 5.7 vortec..
To find DTC what your saying is before I pull the old distributor out I can bump the key until the rotor is lined up on the #1 cylinder?
Now this guy Know's what he's doing . Great channel and very in depth.
Okay he's telling us how to make sure that the distributor sets but if you're going to go through all that trouble you got to make sure that it's on the compression stroke on number one selling the first so he's saying to do it two or three times jiggle it and if it goes down it just so happens when you do it that many times and you jiggling it goes down you may be 180 out you maybe on the exhaust broke not the compression stroke so I wouldn't listen to this guy he's not very in-depth on his explanation sorry pal
Why do all that? Send it to TD center? Can’t you just put the rotor right back exactly the way it was.
Thanks Man! Great Job!
this is the best video that has ever been explained on youtube , thank you very much!! now to see if i can do it
It’s still overwhelming but thankyou poor folk don’t have the luxury of hiring a mechanic
The air filter assembly comes out in one piece you didn't have to take it apart.. also why are you removing the plug wires?
I have a 1996 Chevy Tahoe put in a new distributor after after it reaches operation temperature at misfires what am I doing wrong please help.
Great presentation James, you are a gifted teacher! Thank you very much.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS!!!!! Man I beat my head against the wall for days with a no-starting ‘98 Chevy. Watched so many videos on this! Your vid saved me!! Took me 15 mins to do what you said and she now starts and runs like a dream! If there was one vid I wish I would’ve watched on my engine swap it’s this one. Thanks again!!!
Great video. Thank you!
This video is worth 1,000,000 internet forum words! Thanks a lot!
LOL. Thanks
why is so many people having dist tbl i am 88 i have worked on eng since i was a teenager only dist i needed to adj was my 53 dodge m37 i have changed points and cond. but thats it i am not counting plugs
Really appreciate for your time, very clear explanation
Ordered, plugs, wires, distributor, and have no idea what I'm doing. But week I'll be watching this. Your very technical with what is going on and what each movmrnt does. This saves me the shop fee 🙏🤘🔨🛠
If the crank is not moved between removing the old distributor and reinstalling or installing a new one, I would think as long as the positioning is correct the new one should drop right in. Once the crank is bumped you lost your TDC setting and its now different than when the old one was removed, I would avoid this if possible.
You are right. The problem is that most inexperienced people will not get it right the first time, will attempt to start the engine. Then they waste more time trying to fix it, than they would have just doing it the correct way the first time. That's why the couple minutes it takes to set it at top dead center, is the correct, and preferred way. Shade tree mechanics say all day, you don't need to set it to TDC, and that puts inexperienced people down the wrong path. Sure it's not necessary to set it to TDC, but sure makes it easier. And bumping it with the starter is also not necessary, but it saves the aggravation of lining up the oil pump drive. Before the starter is hit, the distributor is already engaged with the cam. Putting it back on TDC after that is even easier because you are already on the correct stroke. I like to show people the correct way to do things. If they want to go a different way, then that is certainly their choice. But it's always good to know the by the book way.
Thank you Sir, if you all are looking for a 5.7 Vortec distributor how to video go no further
I don't know if you can see this comment a year and a half later, but you have literally saved my a**. I had to change the distributor in a 97 k1500, and for the life of me, could not figure out what I did wrong. Now I know when I go back to it in the morning, exactly what to do. This was a great video. Thank you so much.
I did this now my 99 Tahoe rpm is high motor running fast what I do wrong I need help please anybody ty
Thanks for the video it really helped
Thank you so much for the tutorial I'm not a good teacher and it's very hard for me to explain to my husband the importance at what you made look so easy he was able to install his distributor without any problems thank you again for your patience and great explanation
Please never tell any one how easy this is to do again. And quit repeating yourself . What a ridiculous video!!
If you already have the code how do you go about trying to fix that?
What if my new distributor does have that white line to line it up should I still line it up exactly like you did
mine was running rough, got it for $800 at salvage yard, i adjusted the distributer to be parallel like you said and it worked brother, thanks!!
Man best fucking video all the blogs I read and videos I watched. I got it after watching this one
Thank you I am so grateful for video and all the details And explanation that you put into it I'm a painter by trade and you really help me out thank you.
Mr. & Mrs. Vasquez Thanks for the kind words
Why not take a picture before removing then put the new distributor the same way?