I rarely comment on a video but I do want to give him credit on how he describes how it all works in a sentence I've watched good bit of videos and you know they just Overlook the fact that some of us have to recap on topics that has not been recently practiced for example two days ago my truck just stopped running at a stop sign at 3 in the freaking morning and the temperature was like 11 degrees luckily in a place where I can leave it for a day or two to try to get it going so if this is the next step I appreciate the knowledge that he has given to the community
You sir, are life saver! I thank you for your video. Spent many hours trying to time my 2001 Blazer the wrong way. I set the rotor on the six then dropped it in and needles to say, wouldn't start. I then watched your video and worked the first time! Thanks again for your information.
A couple of warnings about your video for the amateur. When you are talking about Top Dead Center (TDC) on cylinder 1 on this engine, starting at 5:25, yes, the harmonic balancer has two marks, but you misled your viewer by making them think that they only need to line up the marks. There are two strokes where the marks are lined up and only one out of every revolutions is TDC, the other is exhaust. I know that you know this, but for some reason you skipped over it. They need one of several methods. 1) If the engine is or has been running and the distributor is untouched, then remove the distributor cap and observe the rotor. If it is pointing at the "6" mark while the lines of the dampener or harmonic balancer are lined up, then you are TDC. 2) With the spark plug removed in cylinder 1, put our finger or thumb over the spark plug hole to seal it while someone turns the crank shaft. When you feel or hear the air coming out around your finger, then when the marks are lined up, you are TDC. 3) Find someone with a compression tester (hopefully the threaded type) and put it in spark plug hole for cylinder one, you will find perfect TDC when the marks are lined up and you get compression. 4) Some people on UA-cam show yo how to make a homemade noise or balloon indicators when compression is generated in cylinder one--but by the time you make that, you can find it with your finger over the hole, which if you use latex gloves like I do on engines, then I stick my middle finger in the hole to plug it and when the compression starts it squeaks past my latex glove anyway. I've worked on these 4.3L engines a lot and I played you back twice to make sure that I heard you correctly at 9:25, again, NO, you do want the oil pump slot to be in the "finished position," but, NO, it should be in the "inserting" position, perfectly vertical with the engine. That will make the distributor sit flush with the intake manifold for securing it, because the rotor at the top and the drive gear at the bottom will turn about 18-degrees as you insert the distributor to match the cam gear. What you call the "fin" on the bottom of the distributor will slip into the oil pump slot in the engine and it will turn with the distributor as it gets seated. Then, if it is flush mounted, you can tighten it down, but if not, you need to pull it back out and realign the "fin" with the oil pump slot. I use only a one-piece 10-12 inch screw driver. They will need either a flashlight with a mirror to see down in the hole or today we use our cell phone to view in it and set the oil pump gear vertically. Your mark on the extension or on a long screwdriver works too. Your wrench extension with a flathead socket may may not be good for an amateur, because they risk hitting it on the side of the hole when pulling it out and lose the socket inside the engine, then what will they do except tear the engine down to retrieve it? A one-piece 10 to 12-inch flat screwdriver is the best. I saw an experienced mechanic lose an 8" screwdriver in that distributor hole and he spent an hour trying to fish it back out with a strong magnet, but it all could have been avoided by not using a short screw driver, but in your case, the flat head driver could fall into the engine if bumped on the side of the manifold while pulling it back up through the hole.
TEST-ALL-THINGS My distributor: First time I measured 2x and cut once. I made sure it was on TDC on the crank and and rotor pointing to the 6 notch which fires 1 before I took out the old one. Only challenge was lining up the notch at the inside bottom shaped like a screwdriver. I used a super long screwdriver for that, which I learned from you!. I didn't even have to prime it to start it. The engine light went out on its own. The old one had play in it. 180,000 miles in my 96 S10. Thanks Brother. You saved me!
I would highly recommend anybody that puts a extension with socket into their engine use an extension with a lock ring just in case they hit the socket on something and drop it into the engine creating a new can of worms.
Good info, but I've changed numerous distributors on these engines and all I ever do is rotate the engine so the rotor is on the 6 marking, then note where it is when I pull the old distributor out, and install the new one the same way. If it's off a bit off, just pull it out a little, rotate a degree or two, and drop it back in. Usually takes one try, sometimes 2, and rarely 3. Never once had a 4.3 out of time doing it this way.
If u know it's timed right but won't engage pump u can put minute downward pressure, bump starter until it engages pump , (dist. seats down against block).
It all kinda makes sense now. It was a little painful at first, but the tips and tricks worked as advertised. I'm not saying your video was perfect, but with a little patience and common sense, it got me through it. Thanks.
If you are not at top dead center, the pointer will never line up with the 6 mark. turn the crank shaft over once back to the same mark and the distributor will fall right into place.
Thanks for sharing this video. here is my little 2 cents, when line up the timing marks on the harmonic balancer to the marks on the timing chain cover, the engine was still not at TDC on the compression stroke due to a defective balancer that spun. what i did was rented a compression guage from the parts store, pluged it in to the #1 cylinder and found the compression stroke, then use a small screwdriver to feel when the piston tops out. Then i lined up the distributor with the #6 on the housing. cranks right up.
I just turned over the engine until the rotor was pointing to 6. Pull the distributor and mark the out position of the rotor. Mark the new distributor in the same place and insert if you do it right oil pump will slide right in and rotor will line up with 6. 10 minutes. Done.
What's this a God is good and I got the truck started and it's running smoothly it was the coil over so I just wanted to say thank you to the UA-camr that made this video and just want to say God bless everybody
I am a noob and watching your video about top dead center . I’m confused because my pulley has to lines on it and don’t know which line I should be using to align with the underneath indicator.
The piece with the 2 lines. On my truck I can move that with my hand. Should I be able to? My crank bolt won’t even move. Clockwise. But I can move that with my hand to line up the first line
Im selling the blazer for whatever i can get. Im tired of throwing money on it and having anxiety trying to fix myself. Just want a functional vehicle.
If you buy the $100 car quest distributor from advance auto parts, you'll have to buy a new cap from a higher quality manufacturer such as AC Delco. The distributor itself works good, but for whatever reason the cap that it comes with throws out misfire codes.
Great video for people that just need to install and go distributor .Unfortunately for me it ain’t me being a good human being offered my help to a neighbor really old and never thought about what I was getting myself into..Distributor mark is all the way on the opposite and don’t know how to move this balancer I think is call ..You say that the mark has to line up but I know for sure is out of alignment Can someone please tell me how to move balancer the piece in the middle is way bigger than 16 and I don’t have any tools for that size do I have to take out fan ?
Did you ever heard of replace eing plugs wires and cap on a 4.3 in a 2001 Chevy S10 pickup you have to reset the computer please comment back in let me know thank you very much
Thank you awesome information you explained it very well I can honestly say if someone doesn't understand what you said or your directions😢 they should let someone that does do it😅 for a happy ending🎉
Thanks Jamie. Do you have to make sure that the two sets of lines on the harmonic balancer line up with the marks on the engine at the same time? We lined up the first line on the balancer with the mark on the engine while looking from the top. At that time we also had air being forced out of the #1 cylinder should we have kept going until the second mark on the balancer lined up with the mark we could see from the top side of the engine compartment?
Killer video. Just did the intake manifold gasket on my 4.3 thought I had it good but got a timing code I didn't have before. This will definitely be on my to-do list in the morning
Hello Mr.Jones! I have one question for you. what are the big no-no when buying a car when you are in the flipping car business? for ex. transmission needs replaced,high mile engine ect
Ok but i already have a dizzy without the mark and i can't get it to line up at all the pointer on the dizzy button is pointing straight to the front of the truck instead of pointing at #1 on the dizzy ???
Can you tell me why my truck lost oil pressure and after changing the sending unit sensor, then an aftermarket gauge, and we jusylt changed the oil pump but still no oil pressure?? Could be something eith the distributor??
$100 forget that, that same distributor is on eBay for $40-45. I plan to get one my self because I'm getting tired of the plastic tabs for the cap braking off.
hello i find lining up the dimple to the mark always puts me out one tooth it is better if you only go about 75 % of the rotation and then install. and to rotate the oil pump just find a socket that just fits over the shaft and tape it to a screwdriver with a mark to show you where you are and it is easy to line up the oil pump this is a really big frustration eliminator thanks !
I just replaced my intake gaskets and decided it was time to replace the distributor since plastic tabs in the base broke. the China replacement had a metal base. The first one was giving issue since the reluctor plate was pressed on the shaft out of position. The second one looked good but still had an issue with code P1345. My neighbour happens to be a GM mechanic and showed me how to calibrate a new distributor using my Tech2. He said this was usually the case after replacement.
Yes. That is the camshaft sensor, and on the bottom (right by your timing cover and balancer) is your crank position sensor. The cam sensor doesnt require a scan tool to reset. The crank sensor does require a reset. Most mechanics will do it for some under the table money because all they have to do is plug the scan tool in, rev it up to redline, then turn the engine off to find the cranks range. You can avoid having it reset, but it can cause damage and also run like ass. With that being said, you can at least drive it to the shop for a reset with very little chance of it doing any harm. Like less than 1% in my experience.
Thanks for the instructions. I used the top mark to set TDC on cylinder one, confirmed that the piston one is actually at the top. My problem is that every attempt to marry the gear and the pump flat drive, I end up few degrees off ahead or behind the #6 mark. Needless to say the engine won't start. Is there a possibility my cam is off?
Brad Burson Yes, I had set TDC wrong, piston #1 was indeed on the top, but not on the compression stroke, I had to use a compression tester gauge to determine when the cylinder was building pressure. Man, once I did that, I only had to fight the oil pump flat drive to match the distributor position. The #6 mark lined up perfectly after that. My Sonoma is running, but yet I have to figure out a misfire code. Hope this helps.
Benito Quintanilla accessible yes TDC is the secret on compression for sure but I gotta say the way they have the same design and its location is the biggest pain-in-the-ass ever
Benito Quintanilla any Chevy motor put your finger over number one cylinder have someone else bumb key over until it blows air over your finger then take a small screw driver put it in number one cylinder and make sure piston is up to spark plugs hole then go to distributer hole in back of motor put flash light in hole make sure your cam shaft mark for distributer is facing number one cylinder on motor drop distributer in facing number one cylinder if you can't get distributer to drop down all the way pull it out take a long flat screw driver and turn it back towards cylinder three a little bit and it will drop right in if that doesn't work then just turn harmonc balancer in front on the crank and it should drop right in and tighten distributer enough where u can turn it just enough to get it smoothened right out and it starts after every key turn then put your timing light on and good to go
I just had a question about the cap and rotor so about a month ago my truck wouldnt start everytime we got a good amount of rain. So one day i put hair dryer up to cap for about 15-20 mins and the truck started right up, so i bought new cap and rotor and also changed plugs and wires, but now my truck is just not running right... if im going around 55mph down hills and i let off the gas the truck seems to be missing or kinda like air bubbling from underneath gas pedals. Cant figure out what i could have done wrong.. never did this until i messed with it.... any ideas yall?
he literally gave you step by step how to do this and you're still getting mad. its free info !!!! geeezzz some people cant just take what's given to them for free. awesome video brother
Don’t you have to first remove spark plug from cyl. 1, and check to see if the piston is physically at top dead center, by sticking a screwdriver in the spark plug hole??? The harmonic balancer could line up with the mark on the block, but the cyl. 1 piston may be on the exhaust stroke (screw driver goes far into the hole), and not at TDC.
jamime.. I've been trying to get into buying and selling cars.. I've worked at a a couple dealerships and I'm all about cars. I paid 1500 for a year to get a dealers plate and auction access card... I've been scanning run lists at the auctions.. mostly adesa in Long Island and new Jersey.. I live in nyc. I also have been searching craiglist almost everyday and I can't find good deals. this has been going on for 3 weeks now. can you make a video on how to find deals ? thanks.. Kevin
first off check to make sure your harmonic balancer (the thing with the 2 marks ) is not bad i was going replace my distributor got it all set right to TDC so i thought when i did my button was not on the 6 like it should of been so i thought hey maybe it off so maybe thats why truck been acting up did all this took distributor out it looked good no play and thought hell if it was out why put new one in just re-set it right so i did it ran but very bad so knowin i did everything right i went lookin for other problems thats when i found out the part with the 2 lines i lined up spins freely making it not on TDC its very stupid they put the lines on something that can turn if it goes out so know i have to mess with get that right then fix the harmonic balancer the problem is itll run fine around town but if i get it on interstate going above 80 itll start cutting out....so before doing this make sure yours doesn't spin
There are 2 Types of 4.3L Engines... #1 - Is the Carburetor Type. #2 - Is the Auto Injection. The Carburetor Type, you can " Adjust " the Oil Pump Rod / Cap to Timing / TDC. But the Auto Fuel Injection, you can't adjust anything, they are set just to drop-in. :((((((
I installed my distributor with new cap rotor and a new cam sensor and it starts now but runs badly... i still get the P1345 code... could i have installed distributor wrong? it has a miss...but i am not sure my 4.3 2001 blazer would run at all if distributor was put back wrong...anyone Know? also when replacing cam sensor in distrib do you have to use a scan tool with relearn feature or not??? i do not own one...any help from someone that knows the answers to my questions is greatly appreciated..thax
Hey sorry you're having an issue but yes you could be off one tooth which would explain it running but running roughly or maybe the Caps off a little bit maybe something's off the rotor something's not quite right in there for sure I don't know if you've already resolved this but if you have it I'll be here
i replaced a worn timing chain...and i think distributor was off when it was running badly... now she just cranks... on my way to the junk yard to see if i can find some parts that may fix issue...i have no spark now...i tested coil and it seems it may be bad...but not sure i tested it correctly....anyway no codes come up at all....hopefully by the end of the day i will figure this all out....thanks
one thing was left out. the piston comes up on dead center on both the exhaust stroke and firing stroke. you can not just line up the marks on the harmonic balancers with the mark on the timing cover.. You have to make sure it is on the firing stroke. you do this by having someone hold their finger tightly on the number one cylinder spark plug hole with the plug out. if it is a compression firing stroke you will feel compression pushing out, if its exhaust stroke it will have no compression since the exhaust valve is open to let the exhaust out. the marks will line up either way but only one way is in time the other it will be 360 degrees off.
Now i thought you were going to put a sharpie mark on the hole edge on the engine, then lock the top to the 6 "V" mark by a rubber wedge under the rotor disk (or whatever its called). But i know im talking rubbish now lol. Its one of those things that you have to be there to see the positions. So did it fix the engine problem?
this is crazy....whatis the name of the entire shaft? I've called auto zone and said the cam position sensor....they have it for $41.. .when I asked them if it was a shaft they said not really....wtf?
Truer words could not have been spoken it is definitely a pain in the ass I'm glad you got it done if you need anything just reach out we got new content coming out every week and thank you for taking the time to watch
Harmonic requires a 5/8 or 16mm. The outer bolts that you shouldn't be grabbing will take a 15. Grab the center bolt.
135 left 246 right put number one piston up set rotor to number one spark and drop shaft in so it right on number one
It makes me feel comfort knowing that I'm not the only one going through this
I rarely comment on a video but I do want to give him credit on how he describes how it all works in a sentence I've watched good bit of videos and you know they just Overlook the fact that some of us have to recap on topics that has not been recently practiced for example two days ago my truck just stopped running at a stop sign at 3 in the freaking morning and the temperature was like 11 degrees luckily in a place where I can leave it for a day or two to try to get it going so if this is the next step I appreciate the knowledge that he has given to the community
You sir, are life saver! I thank you for your video. Spent many hours trying to time my 2001 Blazer the wrong way. I set the rotor on the six then dropped it in and needles to say, wouldn't start. I then watched your video and worked the first time! Thanks again for your information.
A couple of warnings about your video for the amateur. When you are talking about Top Dead Center (TDC) on cylinder 1 on this engine, starting at 5:25, yes, the harmonic balancer has two marks, but you misled your viewer by making them think that they only need to line up the marks. There are two strokes where the marks are lined up and only one out of every revolutions is TDC, the other is exhaust. I know that you know this, but for some reason you skipped over it. They need one of several methods. 1) If the engine is or has been running and the distributor is untouched, then remove the distributor cap and observe the rotor. If it is pointing at the "6" mark while the lines of the dampener or harmonic balancer are lined up, then you are TDC. 2) With the spark plug removed in cylinder 1, put our finger or thumb over the spark plug hole to seal it while someone turns the crank shaft. When you feel or hear the air coming out around your finger, then when the marks are lined up, you are TDC. 3) Find someone with a compression tester (hopefully the threaded type) and put it in spark plug hole for cylinder one, you will find perfect TDC when the marks are lined up and you get compression. 4) Some people on UA-cam show yo how to make a homemade noise or balloon indicators when compression is generated in cylinder one--but by the time you make that, you can find it with your finger over the hole, which if you use latex gloves like I do on engines, then I stick my middle finger in the hole to plug it and when the compression starts it squeaks past my latex glove anyway. I've worked on these 4.3L engines a lot and I played you back twice to make sure that I heard you correctly at 9:25, again, NO, you do want the oil pump slot to be in the "finished position," but, NO, it should be in the "inserting" position, perfectly vertical with the engine. That will make the distributor sit flush with the intake manifold for securing it, because the rotor at the top and the drive gear at the bottom will turn about 18-degrees as you insert the distributor to match the cam gear. What you call the "fin" on the bottom of the distributor will slip into the oil pump slot in the engine and it will turn with the distributor as it gets seated. Then, if it is flush mounted, you can tighten it down, but if not, you need to pull it back out and realign the "fin" with the oil pump slot. I use only a one-piece 10-12 inch screw driver. They will need either a flashlight with a mirror to see down in the hole or today we use our cell phone to view in it and set the oil pump gear vertically. Your mark on the extension or on a long screwdriver works too. Your wrench extension with a flathead socket may may not be good for an amateur, because they risk hitting it on the side of the hole when pulling it out and lose the socket inside the engine, then what will they do except tear the engine down to retrieve it? A one-piece 10 to 12-inch flat screwdriver is the best. I saw an experienced mechanic lose an 8" screwdriver in that distributor hole and he spent an hour trying to fish it back out with a strong magnet, but it all could have been avoided by not using a short screw driver, but in your case, the flat head driver could fall into the engine if bumped on the side of the manifold while pulling it back up through the hole.
Excellent write up tks for sharing
You rock dude 💯🏆
Excellent addendum.
TEST-ALL-THINGS My distributor: First time I measured 2x and cut once. I made sure it was on TDC on the crank and and rotor pointing to the 6 notch which fires 1 before I took out the old one. Only challenge was lining up the notch at the inside bottom shaped like a screwdriver. I used a super long screwdriver for that, which I learned from you!. I didn't even have to prime it to start it. The engine light went out on its own. The old one had play in it. 180,000 miles in my 96 S10. Thanks Brother. You saved me!
@Based Canadian Facts
Great video. Your relaxed pitch helped me to not freak out trying to get the timing marks all lined up. The 06 Silverado starts & runs good now.
That’s great
Awesome video man! Keep it up! Helped me out immensely, if I make a video/short on my channel doing this I’ll shout you out! Thanks for the tips!
you area lifesaver and made me look like a genius to my husband and his friends thanks for the video
I know this is an old video but man! You saved me so much time. Had to like and subscribe
I would highly recommend anybody that puts a extension with socket into their engine use an extension with a lock ring just in case they hit the socket on something and drop it into the engine creating a new can of worms.
Lol I was thinking the same thing, playing with 🔥
@@johnpippin2426 You might be able to retrieve the dropped socket with a telescoped magnetic tool.
Or just use a long screwdriver? Eh?
I use electrical tape to make sure the socket stays on the extension in these cases.
Thank you so much for passing on your knowledge. This video helped me replace my distributor, and fix my misfire.
Good info, but I've changed numerous distributors on these engines and all I ever do is rotate the engine so the rotor is on the 6 marking, then note where it is when I pull the old distributor out, and install the new one the same way. If it's off a bit off, just pull it out a little, rotate a degree or two, and drop it back in. Usually takes one try, sometimes 2, and rarely 3. Never once had a 4.3 out of time doing it this way.
The shaft is rotating but not the gear, though.
You are hilarious because you're telling the complete truth. Love your sense of humor sir thank you for sharing the knowledge
that flat head trick was a life saver cranked right up!! thank you! i used tape and a magnet flat so i know it wouldnt fall in the block kinda riskey
Thanks for the detailed instructions on how to change a 4.3 V6 distributor. I easily changed mine thanks to your video.
If u know it's timed right but won't engage pump u can put minute downward pressure, bump starter until it engages pump , (dist. seats down against block).
It all kinda makes sense now. It was a little painful at first, but the tips and tricks worked as advertised. I'm not saying your video was perfect, but with a little patience and common sense, it got me through it. Thanks.
This was the final piece of info I needed to get this installed properly. Thank you!
If you are not at top dead center, the pointer will never line up with the 6 mark. turn the crank shaft over once back to the same mark and the distributor will fall right into place.
All you need is top dead center and rotor is pointing at number i spark plug wire it can point to any tower as long you use as number 1 wire
Thanks for sharing this video. here is my little 2 cents, when line up the timing marks on the harmonic balancer to the marks on the timing chain cover, the engine was still not at TDC on the compression stroke due to a defective balancer that spun. what i did was rented a compression guage from the parts store, pluged it in to the #1 cylinder and found the compression stroke, then use a small screwdriver to feel when the piston tops out. Then i lined up the distributor with the #6 on the housing. cranks right up.
Thanks man great help!!!
I just turned over the engine until the rotor was pointing to 6. Pull the distributor and mark the out position of the rotor. Mark the new distributor in the same place and insert if you do it right oil pump will slide right in and rotor will line up with 6. 10 minutes. Done.
What's this a God is good and I got the truck started and it's running smoothly it was the coil over so I just wanted to say thank you to the UA-camr that made this video and just want to say God bless everybody
First video that helped me 🙂
I am a noob and watching your video about top dead center . I’m confused because my pulley has to lines on it and don’t know which line I should be using to align with the underneath indicator.
Thank you so much. I was about an hour into it with the hanes manual until I found you, 3 minutes later done. God bless you
The piece with the 2 lines. On my truck I can move that with my hand. Should I be able to? My crank bolt won’t even move. Clockwise. But I can move that with my hand to line up the first line
Im selling the blazer for whatever i can get. Im tired of throwing money on it and having anxiety trying to fix myself. Just want a functional vehicle.
I just went to replace the cap and rotor bug found mine to be loose and rusted just got it back after getting rid of it 5 years ago
Thanks so much for the vid! Worked like a charm in 05 zr2 jimmy
If you buy the $100 car quest distributor from advance auto parts, you'll have to buy a new cap from a higher quality manufacturer such as AC Delco. The distributor itself works good, but for whatever reason the cap that it comes with throws out misfire codes.
Misfire codes are back. Probably a cheap distributor
Great video for people that just need to install and go distributor .Unfortunately for me it ain’t me being a good human being offered my help to a neighbor really old and never thought about what I was getting myself into..Distributor mark is all the way on the opposite and don’t know how to move this balancer I think is call ..You say that the mark has to line up but I know for sure is out of alignment Can someone please tell me how to move balancer the piece in the middle is way bigger than 16 and I don’t have any tools for that size do I have to take out fan ?
Your video is very helpful and educational. Thank you for posting your video.
Could have used a little more guidance with TDC. What marks where you talking about exactly? Thanks for the vid though
So I manually get a flat head and adjust the pump when I drop in the distributor it’s off a bit
Did you ever heard of replace eing plugs wires and cap on a 4.3 in a 2001 Chevy S10 pickup you have to reset the computer please comment back in let me know thank you very much
Good good good. Video.. thanks body ...no more head pain...
Thank you awesome information you explained it very well I can honestly say if someone doesn't understand what you said or your directions😢 they should let someone that does do it😅 for a happy ending🎉
Thanks Jamie. Do you have to make sure that the two sets of lines on the harmonic balancer line up with the marks on the engine at the same time? We lined up the first line on the balancer with the mark on the engine while looking from the top. At that time we also had air being forced out of the #1 cylinder should we have kept going until the second mark on the balancer lined up with the mark we could see from the top side of the engine compartment?
Can you explain a little better how you get it in top dead center? I'm not seeing where to turn the 15 mil socket
I like the way you explain sir
Killer video. Just did the intake manifold gasket on my 4.3 thought I had it good but got a timing code I didn't have before. This will definitely be on my to-do list in the morning
Was the code p0016
Hello Mr.Jones! I have one question for you. what are the big no-no when buying a car when you are in the flipping car business? for ex. transmission needs replaced,high mile engine ect
+Jaime Lemus great question stay tuned doing a video on it this week for you
+JamieJones TheCarMan sounds good Sir, thank you
That thing that you talking about is extremely important that is how they drive your oil pump so if you do not get it aligned you will not pump oil
I need help with a s10 4.3 please
Ok but i already have a dizzy without the mark and i can't get it to line up at all the pointer on the dizzy button is pointing straight to the front of the truck instead of pointing at #1 on the dizzy ???
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!
5:30 is where this video should start.
My pinch bolt doesn’t go all the way down is that a sign it’s wrong
Can you tell me why my truck lost oil pressure and after changing the sending unit sensor, then an aftermarket gauge, and we jusylt changed the oil pump but still no oil pressure?? Could be something eith the distributor??
I went to Amazon and got my distributor for $37
$100 forget that, that same distributor is on eBay for $40-45. I plan to get one my self because I'm getting tired of the plastic tabs for the cap braking off.
that's what I'm talking about half priced good job
yep I also see $40 for numerous Bravex distribs on Amazon with free prime 1 or 2 day shipping.
What year is this for ? I have a 06 4.3
You should use a pointer stick to point out the things that your describing.
Love ur cometary sites the best
hello i find lining up the dimple to the mark always puts me out one tooth it is better if you only go about 75 % of the rotation and then install. and to rotate the oil pump just find a socket that just fits over the shaft and tape it to a screwdriver with a mark to show you where you are and it is easy to line up the oil pump this is a really big frustration eliminator thanks !
Might help if you were to point at some of the stuff your looking at cuz imma slow learner.
What happens if you go counter clockwise because you missed it when bumping it by 1/2 inch
I just replaced my intake gaskets and decided it was time to replace the distributor since plastic tabs in the base broke. the China replacement had a metal base. The first one was giving issue since the reluctor plate was pressed on the shaft out of position. The second one looked good but still had an issue with code P1345. My neighbour happens to be a GM mechanic and showed me how to calibrate a new distributor using my Tech2. He said this was usually the case after replacement.
whats the connection for? whats that part called? (camshaft position sensor)?
Yes. That is the camshaft sensor, and on the bottom (right by your timing cover and balancer) is your crank position sensor. The cam sensor doesnt require a scan tool to reset. The crank sensor does require a reset. Most mechanics will do it for some under the table money because all they have to do is plug the scan tool in, rev it up to redline, then turn the engine off to find the cranks range. You can avoid having it reset, but it can cause damage and also run like ass. With that being said, you can at least drive it to the shop for a reset with very little chance of it doing any harm. Like less than 1% in my experience.
Thanks for the instructions. I used the top mark to set TDC on cylinder one, confirmed that the piston one is actually at the top. My problem is that every attempt to marry the gear and the pump flat drive, I end up few degrees off ahead or behind the #6 mark. Needless to say the engine won't start. Is there a possibility my cam is off?
I've had this exact same issue. Been driving me crazy for a week. You ever figure it out?
Brad Burson Yes, I had set TDC wrong, piston #1 was indeed on the top, but not on the compression stroke, I had to use a compression tester gauge to determine when the cylinder was building pressure. Man, once I did that, I only had to fight the oil pump flat drive to match the distributor position. The #6 mark lined up perfectly after that. My Sonoma is running, but yet I have to figure out a misfire code. Hope this helps.
Benito Quintanilla accessible yes TDC is the secret on compression for sure but I gotta say the way they have the same design and its location is the biggest pain-in-the-ass ever
I know, I had to use my cell phone camera to see where the oil pump flat drive was at.
Benito Quintanilla any Chevy motor put your finger over number one cylinder have someone else bumb key over until it blows air over your finger then take a small screw driver put it in number one cylinder and make sure piston is up to spark plugs hole then go to distributer hole in back of motor put flash light in hole make sure your cam shaft mark for distributer is facing number one cylinder on motor drop distributer in facing number one cylinder if you can't get distributer to drop down all the way pull it out take a long flat screw driver and turn it back towards cylinder three a little bit and it will drop right in if that doesn't work then just turn harmonc balancer in front on the crank and it should drop right in and tighten distributer enough where u can turn it just enough to get it smoothened right out and it starts after every key turn then put your timing light on and good to go
you are the man jamie
Thanks Jamie, this helped a ton.
Try using chalk to high-light the timing marks.
This works just as he shows.
i changed my cam shaft position sensor and now my truck won’t start? on a 4.3. think you could help?
Great video. Thanks for sharing your experience.
+Vic Cerniglia ty and good luck
My crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer nut/bolt size is 16mm...just saying!
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Good advice from chuey 9313!
I just had a question about the cap and rotor so about a month ago my truck wouldnt start everytime we got a good amount of rain. So one day i put hair dryer up to cap for about 15-20 mins and the truck started right up, so i bought new cap and rotor and also changed plugs and wires, but now my truck is just not running right... if im going around 55mph down hills and i let off the gas the truck seems to be missing or kinda like air bubbling from underneath gas pedals. Cant figure out what i could have done wrong.. never did this until i messed with it.... any ideas yall?
All that bs and you didn't install it!
he literally gave you step by step how to do this and you're still getting mad. its free info !!!! geeezzz some people cant just take what's given to them for free. awesome video brother
Thanks for the video man!! 🤟🏾🤟🏾
Thxx v much sir
Don’t you have to first remove spark plug from cyl. 1, and check to see if the piston is physically at top dead center, by sticking a screwdriver in the spark plug hole???
The harmonic balancer could line up with the mark on the block, but the cyl. 1 piston may be on the exhaust stroke (screw driver goes far into the hole), and not at TDC.
jamime.. I've been trying to get into buying and selling cars.. I've worked at a a couple dealerships and I'm all about cars. I paid 1500 for a year to get a dealers plate and auction access card... I've been scanning run lists at the auctions.. mostly adesa in Long Island and new Jersey.. I live in nyc. I also have been searching craiglist almost everyday and I can't find good deals. this has been going on for 3 weeks now. can you make a video on how to find deals ? thanks.. Kevin
+kevin bharose yes I will , but for time being find good cars and offer less so hold profit stay away from auction until u really dial in your market
first off check to make sure your harmonic balancer (the thing with the 2 marks ) is not bad i was going replace my distributor got it all set right to TDC so i thought when i did my button was not on the 6 like it should of been so i thought hey maybe it off so maybe thats why truck been acting up did all this took distributor out it looked good no play and thought hell if it was out why put new one in just re-set it right so i did it ran but very bad so knowin i did everything right i went lookin for other problems thats when i found out the part with the 2 lines i lined up spins freely making it not on TDC its very stupid they put the lines on something that can turn if it goes out so know i have to mess with get that right then fix the harmonic balancer the problem is itll run fine around town but if i get it on interstate going above 80 itll start cutting out....so before doing this make sure yours doesn't spin
There are 2 Types of 4.3L Engines... #1 - Is the Carburetor Type. #2 - Is the Auto Injection. The Carburetor Type, you can " Adjust " the Oil Pump Rod / Cap to Timing / TDC. But the Auto Fuel Injection, you can't adjust anything, they are set just to drop-in. :((((((
punctuation...
@@JodBronson seriously? I didn't know that. Mine is fuel injection so I just line the marks up on dist and set it in?
Where was the mark on the bottom didn't see any thing
and what about the compression stroke
WHAT A FRIGGEN TOOL BAG HE IS ON THE PIPE
+62 BOSTON MA North East Corner who
compression stroke?? FORGOT TO MENTION THE IT AND AS FAR AS THE COMMENT I'M JUST MESSING AROUND WITH YOU...... GOOD VIDEO
Thank you sir
I installed my distributor with new cap rotor and a new cam sensor and it starts now but runs badly... i still get the P1345 code... could i have installed distributor wrong? it has a miss...but i am not sure my 4.3 2001 blazer would run at all if distributor was put back wrong...anyone Know? also when replacing cam sensor in distrib do you have to use a scan tool with relearn feature or not??? i do not own one...any help from someone that knows the answers to my questions is greatly appreciated..thax
Hey sorry you're having an issue but yes you could be off one tooth which would explain it running but running roughly or maybe the Caps off a little bit maybe something's off the rotor something's not quite right in there for sure I don't know if you've already resolved this but if you have it I'll be here
i replaced a worn timing chain...and i think distributor was off when it was running badly... now she just cranks... on my way to the junk yard to see if i can find some parts that may fix issue...i have no spark now...i tested coil and it seems it may be bad...but not sure i tested it correctly....anyway no codes come up at all....hopefully by the end of the day i will figure this all out....thanks
Does this also apply to the 4.3 vortec distributor that the plug wire plug in from the top?
No that one uses a vacuum advance
What are you showing ? I don't see any timing mark !
You know I've done these many times but I honestly don't know what would happen if I didn't plug the plug back in if anyone does know tell me😂
one thing was left out. the piston comes up on dead center on both the exhaust stroke and firing stroke. you can not just line up the marks on the harmonic balancers with the mark on the timing cover.. You have to make sure it is on the firing stroke. you do this by having someone hold their finger tightly on the number one cylinder spark plug hole with the plug out. if it is a compression firing stroke you will feel compression pushing out, if its exhaust stroke it will have no compression since the exhaust valve is open to let the exhaust out. the marks will line up either way but only one way is in time the other it will be 360 degrees off.
does it need to be tdc on compression stroke?
+thesmoothone yes it most certainly does
Thanks u helped a lot
Your a god sir
Thank you amigo
Thank you awesome
Gracias amigo 🙏👍
Now i thought you were going to put a sharpie mark on the hole edge on the engine, then lock the top to the 6 "V" mark by a rubber wedge under the rotor disk (or whatever its called).
But i know im talking rubbish now lol.
Its one of those things that you have to be there to see the positions.
So did it fix the engine problem?
Drops socket into the engine
Update I drop a screw driver into my intake..
Lol somebody sounds slightly under the influence lol. Thanks man
this is crazy....whatis the name of the entire shaft? I've called auto zone and said the cam position sensor....they have it for $41.. .when I asked them if it was a shaft they said not really....wtf?
The best fuck the instructional videos , this dude is real lol
What a pain in the ass. Finally got it. Thank you.
Truer words could not have been spoken it is definitely a pain in the ass I'm glad you got it done if you need anything just reach out we got new content coming out every week and thank you for taking the time to watch