Dana 30/44 Currie Johnny Joint Install
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- Опубліковано 19 жов 2018
- 1989 Jeep Cherokee XJ Pioneer Renix 4.6L I6 AW4 NP231 6" RE Lift 35"x12.5" STT Pros
CE-9112M2 - Machined Johnny Joint (1/2" Bolt)
www.currieenterprises.com/ce-...
CE-9112M - Machined Johnny Joint (7/16" Bolt)
www.currieenterprises.com/CE-...
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Bro you’re commentary is exactly the the self installation Jeep guy 💯
Cool beans! Looking forward to a follow up to tell us how it's holding up and the difference in feel. Gotta love it when a plan comes together.
Nice job Nick.Looks like a nice upgrade.I will have to remember this when I put my 3 link on next spring.
Excellent video. 2 tips that helped me when i did mine. I took some emery cloth and cleaned out the inside of the mount mine had a small amount of oxidation in there that had formed a bit of a ring. The other was I lifted and supported the jeep a little by the frame and let the axle drop a bit. Gave me a little more room to work
Nick, small reciprocating air saw or electric. Get center out of bushing by it falling out or burn with torch, then use small saw to cut the sleeve. 10 minutes done.
You made it look easy enough. Good stuff!
Nice job! I just ordered the same part. Putting super duty axles on mine. I'll let you know how it goes.
The 1/2 bolt is the only way to go. I did this same 3 link and joint install a year ago. Dropping a upper link really justifies a stronger bolt being necessary. The 1/2 bolt is approximately 175% stronger (shear strength) than 1 10mm bolt from the factory. So basically it's similar bolt strength to stock even with only running 1 upper link. 3 link is the only way to go.
I am currently working on the same mod. I sacrificed a chinese hole saw from the garbage box to press the old sleeves out. It blasted them right out of there without removing the rubber or metal spacer.
I'm still on hold because I have a 4 link, and the Johnny Joint doesn't fit into the passenger side mount. Now I'm just waiting on the new UCA mount from Artec Industries.
I've always found that pushing out or torching out the rubber centers and pounding the metal sleeve inward is the easiest way to get the old ones out. After beating the sleeve edges inward you can usually either beat it out or grab it with channel locks. Also, they do make a ball joint press that have the attachments stay in place... it's called super over priced (Snap-On). Never seen one but I know of people that swear by them. I'm too cheap for Snap-On though.
Good to see you back working on the Jeep.
Is it refreshing to get away from your TFC-2 build for a bit?
Some hands on, manual labor with fairly instant gratification that leaves an oh so good feeling!
Ehh, it ain't bad haha. But winter is coming and the hibernation feels strong this year.
Haha, I picked up some of "the stress is strong grasshopper" with the TFC-2 issues you went through.
Hibernation, with a Jeep in the snow? Ta hell you say! That's more play time!!
Anyway, good video & welcome back to the mechanical side of the Jeep!
How is the thingy holding up
How does it drive now?
"it doesn't guys" WHAAT THEE FAWWWWK! lol
You did right to stick with the 1/2" one. I'd replace the bolt with a regular grade 8 that has a shoulder that goes all the way through your control arm. Don't use these with y-link suspensions. The binding will destroy them. I've gone through 2 of them already. Broke the bolts, the balls and finally sheared the 3/16" passenger side control arm mount off my axle.
Y-link, as in a radius arm? (typical long arm)
so, dont use johnny joints with y-link radius arms ?
Are you talking about radius arms or are you talking about IRO "iron Y" critical path arm?
@@joebourgoin6554 I'm talking about the style where the upper control arms come off of the lowers on both sides. Aka, not a true 3/4 link, but not like 70s ford pickups or the current superduty setup.
would you recommend a Johnny joint on a stock Jeep that currentlybhas bad caster from the upper control arm bushings. I plan on getting it lifted in a few months but the bushings right now I'm making it undrivable. 98 ZJ 4.0 w/ Dana 30
Tough call. I needed the extra strength of a solid joint because I'm only running a 3 link. With a stock 4 link suspension, rubber or poly joints seem to last fairly well. It might feel a little harsher with a solid joint, but otherwise should still work.
Can the bolt with the grease fitting just be flipped to the other side?😂
When your drilling through steel like that your should put a dab of ATF on the tip of the drill bit to keep it cool and from burning the cutting edges off periodically while drilling
Can you use this joint on the passenger side. Well without having to spend the 200 bucks for the kit
I don't see why not. Should have the same size. Just depends if it will stay in place. The newer mounts are weak, so they'd need reinforcement of some sort
Did you notice any difference in ride qualiy/vibs from these vs quality rubber bushings?
Hard to compare because my old joint was so blown out. For being on a 3 link, I think it's nessisary to have the added firmness.
@@NickInTimeFilms did it stop the death wobble wiggle feeling??
Just a quick Q..........Did you replace both upper "bushings" on the axle?
I only have a 3 link, so i only replaced the 1 upper joint.
I’m looking for that 3 link kit. You got a link? I want to use the drivers side upper arm but all the kits I see online use the passenger side
It's the Iron Rock Offroad Rock Link kit.
@@NickInTimeFilms gotcha
Hasta la pizza baby 😋😋😋
Hey Nick! I think you might of answered my question about this Bushing that I asked on summit.com lol i say this because is showed a Nick from New Jersey answered my question. So I thought it might of been you who answered it lol
Haha, it was indeed. Summit will send questions to previous buyers and I knew the answer!
@@NickInTimeFilms lol hey as long as I know it fits my WJ dana 30 upper housing bishing is all that matters to me. If I have to drill my IRO upper control arm for a bigger bolt. So be it but I think the WJ also uses the bigger bolt so should be gravy baby for me lol
Can’t find them anywhere are they no longer being manufactured?
That's odd that it doesn't show up on the currier site anymore, but if you google the part number there seems to be some aftermarket support still.
Amazon has them, I just ordered one.
How is it that all you parts rusted so quick
Welcome to the rust belt :)
@@NickInTimeFilms no shit.. I live in Northern California on the coast and everything rusts right before your eyes.
It's all about wash it dry it and paint it within the hour or forget it.
Nick, paint that metal under the body with POR15 black matte! Protect that baby to last a whole lot longer.
Why not just drill out to 1/2"?
That's what I get for making a comment before watching the whole video...
Yeah looks like you smoked that joint. I still prefer to have 2 tho. One is never enough for me.
I'd love a 4 link, but wasn't super happy with the kits or prices I was seeing.
@@NickInTimeFilms it definitely looks much beefier after your fix. You may be ok as long as you are halfway conservative. However I was actually alluding to smoking J's. That was probably the best use of my XJ in high school, finding secluded spots to get super high with my Jeep buddies.
Hahahaha.... Yeah, that one went right over my head.
@@NickInTimeFilms look up Stinkyfabracings aluminum 4 link
Looks like a hella beefy kit, but at twice the price of the IRO kit it's a little hard to justify.
Nick I have noticed in the video awesome job on the Johnny Joint though good idea for mine but you need to fix your wiring brother it's a freaking rats nest .
I've had little free time, but it's certainly still a work in progress. I might be changing how I run my tuning soon so then the mess can move to the map sensor
@@NickInTimeFilms same here free time is a commodity nowadays trying to get things done and trying to work on my for over a month I haven't got to it yet keep on making your awesome videos later ..
FIRST!!!!