As a mechanical engineer, this video was phenomenal at breaking down the specific design differences in the axles that directly translate to performance differences. Thumbs up from me!
I have the stock Dana 30 on my xj. Lunchbox lockers, stock shafts, and 35s and I’ve never had a single issue... until I drove it. Now I’m watching axle swap for beginners lol
You are backwards on your High Pinion Direction, It is stronger When you push your ring gear with your pinion not pull. i.e. low pinion rear pinion pushes ring gear, high pinion front pushes the ring gear. Think of it as you want to load up the larger pinion bearing. But you did pretty good nice job putting it together.
Great video! Very useful information. I almost built the D30 that came in my YJ. It ended up being cheaper for me to just get a D44. Lots more piece of mind. I have a D44 low pinion in the front with chromolys and locker. And a trussed Ford 8.8 in the rear. Both geared at 4.56, running 35s, and my stock 4cyl. Works great for me.
You prolly dont give a shit but does someone know a trick to get back into an instagram account..? I stupidly lost the password. I would love any tricks you can offer me!
Built a C8.25 rear locked and TJ D30 w/ cromo axle shafts , open diff for my YJ , running 35s and very happy with the build. Also did the WJ big brake upgrade and rebuild both axles completely .... was to be a budget build but a total rebuild parts add up lol
A high pinion 30 and 8.8 rear are pretty inexpensive upgrades for a streetable TJ on 35s. The main issue I ran in to with this combo is the 8.8 hangs low and drags on everything. Then the hp30 hardened locker crosspin broke and backed out, wedging between the ring and pinion, which then stripped my gears and exploded the carrier. I replaced the parts and drove it for a while longer, but went the superduty 60/10.5 combo along with a backhalf, stretch, and full hydro steering on 40s.
I have driven Jeeps for years, and never broke an Axle. I have had a propeller shaft fail on a rock climb in a 95 Jeep Grand Cheorkee, 5.2 liter V8, 4.11 geared axles and 33" tires. I drove in MOab and up the lions back in a 76 CJ-7 with T-18 4 Speed, Dana 20 Transfer case, Stock Dana 30 front axle and stock AMC 20 rear axle. with 4.11 gears and a two inch lift. I forgot the size tires, but remember they were Armstrong Norseman. I managed to go everywhere I wanted with little fuss or muss and didn't even strip out the hub on the AMC axle.
I have a Dana 44 in the front of my 76 Bronco with Chromoly axles and never had a problem. I've never thought about installing a truss, but I like the idea. Great information!
*Only the "Super 60" has the 10" ring gear. These are in 2005-2020 F-450/550 and 2017+ F-250/350. In the 2017 MY, the pinion size was increased substantially, and Dana internally calls it the M256.*
I ran a locked Dana 30 on a V8 ZJ on 35s with 4.88 gears for years without issues. Had IRO "almost alloy" axle shafts with Spicer 760x ujoints and the end caps welded. Ran IRO internal axle sleeves as well. Most importantly though, I drove it like it was a Dana 30 haha sometimes people treat them like it's a 60 and of course it's gonna blow!!
He's exactly right, when it comes to ground clearance on the 60. I put one on my 1969 Ford F350 c class motorhome, and I wouldn't dream of going less then 36 inch tall tires.
Amazing amount of research and information. And instead of asking this question, I'm going to your other uploads to see when to change 4:10 to 4:55. --- Thanks for the great upload. ---
Excellent information Nate. Pulling my D30 to do new inner seals. Adding outer seals because of the amount of sludge, mud and crap on the east coast. Already upgraded to Yukon 30 spline chromoly axles when I upgraded the ring and pinion and 4.56 gears after I bought it in CA. Stub shafts and heavy duty u-joints from Yukon are also going in. Truss will be added too, as well as lower control arm skids. Sure, it's a D30, but it will be solid. Don't have the $$ for sleeves and gussets for this go round. Running 33's now and moving to 35's as soon as the Tread wears down.
Perfect advice.. d30-44 don’t break in jeeps from good wheeling. They break cause if weak joints which in turn destroy the shaft.. or they break cause if thinner tubes flexing. In my last TJ’s I always ran d44 swaps from fords or waggys, my current project Cherokee I’ll be sticking with the hp30 with a truss and rcv shafts cause getting anything larger then a 36-37 on a Cherokee and retaining any reasonable resemblance to a Cherokee and flex that just all you can reasonably do. I would like to hear your take on rears too. I already got the 8.8 locked with alloys swapped in the rear just need to truss it when I go 4 link. As big as the 8.8 swap is in the xj world I feel it’s a highly overlooked option in the tj and yj world. My last TJ ran a 8.8 rear with waggy front. As far are rears go.. I really don’t understand all this d60 hype and never had? You can swap in a shaved 14 for that weight while having same clearance and way way stronger setup. You have to really build a 60 to touch a stock 14 with just welded spiders. Tons are just way to heavy imop unless you’re over landing and carrying a ton of weight. In my 20 or so years of wheeling I’ve bent more shafts then I’ve broken and that’s from tube flex under shock load. Hell even back in the day before I had a clue I was running a super 35 kit on 37’s and never broke a shaft.. bent a few from pulling others out in bigger heavier rigs where I really had to snatch from 20-30’ feet and that shock bent axles which also destroys the bearings but even then I never snapped one. I’ve seen more people break shocks etc wo straps and walk their 60’s under their rigs ripping apart drive shafts and all kinds of stuff cause they are so same heavy then I’ve ever had with smaller properly built axles on proper weighted rigs with proper size tires. And the hype over these rubi axles swaps is highly misguided.. they are lip d30 with a modified 44 housing. The knuckles, tubes, joints etc are all 30 lol. The rubi is nothing more then and 8.8 version of a Janice jk swap into a standard 44. You’re getting a bigger and hence stronger with tall gearing d30. You’re axles aren’t breaking cause they are weak they are breaking cause they are flexing.. (hence truss and sleeves) your joints don’t break cause they are weak they break cause they are weak at angles. You’re 1310 driveshaft joint is the same as the one conserving your purées to your inners.. yet you’re breaking front joints bot drive shafts joints cause you’re at full lock and putting them in a bing which means the inner is moving regular speed while the outer is moving much slower. (Extra stress) I can’t help but feel Jeep people are so far behind the times when it comes to what breakers and why. The reason a $5000 Tacoma will never break anything is cause they are running cv shafts instead of ujoints. How many yots with dual t case running 127-1 crawl do you see breaking weak 7-8” axles? It’s not the axles it’s the joints. Throw a $100 truss on that hp30 run some rcv shafts and be done. While your buddies are refinancing their house to pay for a 60 and 40+ tires to clear them you’ll be wheeling.
I had a low pinion Dana 30 and I beat on it for 2 years with 35’s and it held great never had a problem than I sold the truck and I’m actually about to swap one into my daily driver ford ranger and do some 33’s for hunting and driving around on gravel roads
I have a 1963 Wagoneer version of you blue Jeep. Mine is a Willy's and has the OHC Tornado 6 in it. I bought if for either $50 or $100 close to 25 years ago. It's a little lighter blue than yours. Sheet metal is all good but the floor pans and seats need work. Been sitting pretty much since I bought it. The guy I bought it from had broken a shifting fork and that's why it was so cheap. It ran like a watch and after my dad welded up the fork it was fine. I need to bring it home and get it fixed up because it's a sweet truck.
@@adamsmith5913 it was a rail job a dragster long n skinny with a wing out back kinda looks like a top fuel dragster she only weighed 1565 pound so she hauled ass what fun !!!
Thanks man, your video really helped Me out, I'm in my 20s and trying my best to learn. Everything is so technical and forum have too many options with strong opinions towards Everything. Nice to see a simple video break it all down :)
@@CD-W0DOS do a disc brake conversion on a chrysler 8.25 and if you do happen to break an axle the rotor will hold the wheel in to get off the trail. That's what I did as a poor man's way of keeping the axle in in the event of a failure.
Great video nate. One thing im putting a f250 dana 44 in my YJ to run 35s. The biggest reasons are for the lockouts, bigger brakes, no unit bearings, and high steer. All of those are an added cost trying to beef a dana 30. Running the 67 inch width but with 3rd gen dodge wheels with 6 inch backspacing.
That should be a pretty fun and reliable toy! The only thing I would recommend is bring some spare shafts with you if you plan on running the stock ones. It's very thin around the ears of the shaft so the stock ones are pretty easy to break. Ask me how I know lol. Thanks for watching buddy 👍
i can count myself lucky that i bought my 2nd gen ram with 4x4 here in germany. Dana 44 in the front and i always thought i want a better axle if i go offroad. Since i didnt know better at that time. Now i know from all the videos and research that the axles in there are definitely going to say and just get upgraded. The plan is to start from the axles for upgrades and go back the driveline until i reach the engine for upgrades. Got a NV4500 Gearbox in there, which is not the best for offroading from what i know now because Automatics are actually better. Right now i have the 5 stud hubs But i would like to have the 8stud hubs to have the locking hubs. But if there are 5 stud hubs with lockers i would take them too. will see in forums and such if someone can help me along with my build over the years. But i extremely apreciate the effort people put into explaining for beginners all over UA-cam. Thank you all.
I was pretty excited until 13:25 when you mentioned V-8 and Dana 30. I’m running a TJ magnum V8 360 and NV4500 with an 8.8 Ford in the rear and you guessed it, Dana 30 still in the front!! The 30 is completely stock with a spartan locker 4.11. 35” Cooper STT Pro. In the last year of moderate wheeling I’ve lost 2 U joints and I’ve now bent the ears on the stub. Was hoping to stay Dana 30 HP with 30 spline chrome Molly shafts. Sounds like with a V-8 I should skip and go to Dana 60 but that’s a pretty big mismatch for my Ford 8.8 which seems to be doing great.
I should add the only reason the 30 stubs have bent ears because It spit 760 U Joint caps out. That’s the driver side. Passenger side caps are welded down.
I’ve seen high pinion 9 inch fords, but I don’t know if they’re stock, or aftermarket. Thanks for answering my question, and starting your own channel👍👍👍
The high 9s are sweet! Definitely not stock but I really like the clearance and what not that come with a high pinion rear. Perfect for a light weight low horsepower build
While a Hi pinion axle is nice. But if your vehicle is passenger drop. Your not going to find a factory hi pinion. So if your trying to be budget friendly your going to have to use a low pinion.
Just looking to buy my first rig. Been watching your videos and learning a ton! Love the way you break all the info down. Only a few hours drive from Moab. I can’t wait to start building my own rig and get out there.
Your high pinion is ok if your talking about driverside driveline drop for 80s and up jeeps all Fords and 94ish dodge and up... but if your like my and have a solid axle Chevy! High pinion is not a option without major modifications...
I’d love to see you revisit this / rear axles combos when you hopefully refresh your TJ!! 1 tons and lsx swaps are awesome don’t get me wrong but I like knowing the other options! I hope to copy you one day on a agile TJ I’m leaning to a ford 9” rear and a d44 hp front I have loads more research to do!
I'm heading to a junkyard in Nashville on February 21st to pull a 60 from a 99-04 and a 14 bolt rear. I've only owned my Jeep a year-and-a-half and I'm already going broke. I'm following you on insta as well. Keep up the good work 👌
Here are just some breakfast thought reasons that companies make mostly low-pinion front axles. *1* customer interest; most customers do not care about, nor ever come close to needing, maximum strength and ground clearance for the front differential, and would not want to pay more for a special axle they will not utilize to much extent. *2* It is not cost-effective to make an entire different set of gears for a special axle that would make up maybe 10-20% of the total axles built when standard gears are usable. In fact, it is often cheaper to simply use a larger front differential than to improve the existing one (this is what Chevy did with the Dana 60 KP front) *3* (This one is a big one) Chassis clearance. Many of the later solid-front 4x4 trucks actually have very little room around the front differential and (at stock height) do not have the necessary clearance for the high pinion or its driveshaft to fit without raising the floor pan, moving crossmembers, or lifting the whole truck. (The perfect example is 62-91 wagoneers and J-trucks; some have less than 1/2” driveshaft/diff clearance to the chassis around it) *4* Oiling: due to many things (but basically summed up to the direction of gear rotation), the high-pinion front gears actually have inferior oil supply to the pinion bearings, especially the rear bearing. This applies at highway speed, and equally or more so, on the trail. Whereas a low pinion is constantly bathing in gear oil, a high pinion is relying on the oil splashed and flung into it by the ring gear. As speed decreases, oil to the high pinion will decrease accordingly . Theoretically a low pinion front(and rear) will last more miles due to the better lubrication. I absolutely love high pinion front axles, even have plans to make custom high-pinion rear axles in the future. It is just always good to look and ask, “Why did the engineer put this here and not here?” Remember, the engineer has a boss that is going to harass them for every design choice, so they have a reason for their design. Hopefully the aforementioned thoughts help soften any hard feelings to manufacturers for their choice of components. At the same time, KUDOs to the ones that did use high pinions... *applause to Ford* Just my 0.02, take or leave it
Dana 30 is good for building a Samurai hunting truck, 44 is entry level, 60 is meaning business Dana 70 is simply awesome and impossible to break, the two I have are bullet proof and are massive with Detroit lockers being the only thing to hold together.
Well a 60 and 70 have the same shaft size stock at 1.5" for the 35 spline versions. For most people the smaller housing of the 60 is more desirable for ground clearance. The 70 was developed as a high GVW axle for dual rear wheel applications which gave it larger bearings and ring gear. The 80 is larger yet with an 11.25" ring gear and 1 9/16" axle shafts for the 37 spline version. All of them are great axle choices because they are readily available and well supported.
I love my 1 tons on my Tacoma. Yeah it might be a bit overkill, but boy can she take the abuse. Shafts, super joints, Reid knuckles yukon shafts... id never go back lol
I definitely learned something! Oh BTW, depending on your build, selectable hubs might be nice if you have an auto locker in the front and want 2-low (might be good for tight narrow trails)
For some reason I'm really getting interested in the Jeep XJs. (Dad delivered mail out in the country side with one that was a 4x4, I6, 2-door, red, and right hand drive when they were new.) I don't see myself doing crazy rock crawling with one, but really enjoyed the information you provided. For me, a retired engineer, I absolutely love over-engineering stuff :-) So upgrading the original Dana 30 with a stouter R&P, chorme-moly axles, better U-Joints (or CV joint?), and a truss would go well for an XJ with slightly larger tires and more power. Thanks for the information Dirt Lifestyle !!!!!!!!
Crossing my fingers. But I have a built d30 and run 37s with a stock engine in my jk. So far it has lasted over a year. And that's hitting windrock, blackmountain and various other places multiple times. I'll upgrade to a d60 when it breaks. But it's still hanging tuff!
Lol Yeah dude these things are beasts! I'm going to make my way your direction one of these years. I haven't spent a whole lot of time in the South East, But I love music, so visiting Nashville's definitely my bucket list. 🤘
@@DirtLifestyle come on down bud we will show you some southern hospitality. My band plays all the time in Nash (tonight and tomorrow as a matter of fact haha) but we'd love to give ya the VIP treatment 💪
Good info for newbies. I'm running a HP 30 with sleeves but no truss with 30 spline chrome moly axles and an Ox locker on 35s and no problems for about 10 yrs in a 2001 xj.
Nice man! Sounds like you are at least a fairly sensible driver lol. I think these can be great axles with the right owner. I have a full hp 30 build series on the way. We're going to build it for 37s and keep it on 35s... for now 👍
@@DirtLifestyle hey can you message me at my email address, I have some questions about these axles. I'm trying to figure out the route I want to take on my tj. Dgrefsrud85@gmail.com
Machinist in Texas, dude I’ll quit my job and drive my ‘88 MJ all the way there to work. You’re living my dream job. Seriously though. Awesome video subbed🤘🏼
Lol I'm not living the dream job yet! I still have a day job. As the channel grows I plan on doing this full time but for now I'm a commercial plumber by day and a youtuber by night. 👍
Dirt Lifestyle well I’ll level with you real quick. Watching this video has genuinely made me realize that turning steeling is a great trait but building Jeeps and such vehicles of the same fait is what I wanna do. I’ve wrenched on mine for I guess about 5-6 yrs now. An I’ve been a machinist for 10, it’s taught me a lot and will help in gaining skill but this is my new path. It wasn’t solely this video but it’s definitely the one that has made me make up my mind. If you start that anytime soon just drop me a line bro. Otherwise looks like I’ll be moving to Colorado soon! Or wherever I find a healthy Jeep/wheelin community. Keep up the good work and best of luck!!!
Been wheeling in my V8 ZJ on my dana 30 low pinion for 8 years now with only one issue, and that issue is that my unit bearings keep wearing out every couple years. Of course, I don't have lockers, but I also don't have any upgraded parts or even an axle truss. And I'm not exactly easy on my axle. I don't like giving up on obstacles.
@@Mr2greys I'm not saying its a great axle. I am just saying mine hasn't really given me issues. That being said, I have been wanting to upgrade to 1 tons for years. The 35 is shit though. I've seen those things break with only minor stress. Luckily my ZJ came with the 44HD rear axle (aka the 44a) which is much stronger than people give it credit for. The only real drawback to it is that there is almost no aftermarket support for it.
Nice video the way you explain things is great a friend of mine is going D60s with 40s but on his stock 3.8 jk I told him to much weight that engine doesn't have the torque chip+intake or supercharger deep gears not enough
good video! im trying to learn more about axle options as im contemplating a build and dont want to spend an arm and a leg just on axles. fyi some stock axle shafts are indeed chromoly, which is just term for any 41xx steel, there is actually quite a wide range of "chromoly" steels from 4118 to 4161, the first two numbers designating the chromium and molybdenum alloys (thus chro-moly) the second two designating the percentage carbon by weight (4140 has .40% carbon). a more common axle steel for stock applications is a medium carbon 10xx steel (1040, 1050). although i will also say that heat treat plays a very critical role in how these steels proform.
Words to live by “budget a little bigger.” Never made an upgrade on budget. There is always something I missed or need to modify and the budget goes up.
Could you do a video like this for rear axles? Maybe to keep it simple just do D35, D44, D60, and D70 or D80 I'd love to hear your recommendations on what axle to use with what tire size and weight/payload
I know the Dodge Dana aren't really desirable but Ive been running axle locked Dana's out of Dodge for ever and really don't see much of a difference in locked vs unlocked. Kinda cool running old school Dodge parts like the Axles/T-Case and being able to slip it in and out of 4x4 with no clunk, bind, pops or anything at highway speeds.😂😂 Shifts in and out like butter...
I put dana 30 and 35 in my s10 and it handled 33's with a lot of abuse and never bent or broke anything aside from driveshafts (ended up upgrading to SYE), tie rods (ultimately upgraded to 1 tons) and a few sets of ball joints wore out quickly. Now its got 34's and I wheel it a lot easier, been consider welding the rear end into a locker. Eventually the axles will prob be the weak spot but at the point it prob wont even be road worthy. Ive been trying to keep it reasonable to skate around town into the woods.
Nate, I have a question for you about front axle choices, so let me give a quick overview of the rig: I have a 1948 Willys CJ2A that was stretched 24 inches at the Spokane dealership after receiving it from the factory. The stretch was installed at the step-up in the floor directly behind the front seats. The current drivetrain is Dauntless 225 V6, stock T90/D18 trans and transfer case, PS offset D44 with two-piece axle shafts, and the stock D25 front axle. With the exception of the front axle, I'll be keeping this setup for reasons I'll hit in a minute. This is my daily driver and it's going to be built and used as an overlanding rig. Design-wise, I'll be building it as a 'what if Willys had built an overlanding/safari truck on an extended CJ chassis in the late 1940s?" I want to be able to drive it into remote areas on or off road, but rock crawling isn't an intended usage unless there's no other way to get where I want to go. Even then, I'm going to take the easiest route. As concessions to safety and drivability, it has four-corner manual disc brakes and the V6 so it can mostly roll with modern traffic. Once I upgrade away from the Ross steering, I'll fit a hydrovac for power brakes. I'm hoping to start fabbing the 'family-style' exocage this summer. It will be as minimal as I can make it, but will incorporate a roof rack and light mounts. I'm currently planning on 1.75 inch 0.095 wall DOM or Chromalloy for the tubing to keep the weight down. When actively overlanding, it has a slide-in tray that has gear storage underneath and a sleeping platform on top. The setup weighs about 60 pounds. The custom-made canvas top incorporates a driver's side tip-out for sleeping in the back when the tray is installed. Total weight of the tray and gear and two adults is about 800 pounds. This includes water, extra fuel, food, tools, spares, etc. There will be additional weight added to the vehicle when I build the roll cage and I'm planning on two more fuel tanks. One in the center of rig under the floor at about 27 gallons and a CJ5/7 tank in front of the rear bumper at 15 or 21 gallons. The jeep weighed in at about 2400lbs empty. All of this is currently supported on Rancho 2.5 inch lift springs and open C shackles (I know - someday I hope to have a set of OME springs) . Tires are 235/85R16s on stock rims, so about 33" tall. While neither the 24" stretch or 33" tires are good for turning radius, the 33s are necessary to regain the loss of breakover introduced by the stretch. They're the tallest tires I plan on using. I replaced the D41 rear axle a few years ago when the ring and pinion finally wore out. 5.38 gears are hard to find for a D41 so it was replaced with a late 60's offset narrow-track D44. Future upgrades for this include a 31-spline full-float conversion and a selectable locker. I know the front axle will give out sooner or later - I'm already running a used 5.38 gearset and they're pretty much unobtainable at this point. I'd also like a selectable locker in the front, and that pretty much kills keeping the D25 anyway. One additional requirement is that the tires have to stay tucked inside the body - so stock WMS is critical, even if I need to custom fab the axle. So I'm finally to my questions. First, I have Rzeppa axle shafts for the D25. If you're not familiar with them, they're the strongest stock shaft for the D25 and they have a fully rebuildable CV knuckle. Will these fit a D27 or D30? Second, I'm trying to stay as close to stock as I can in appearance. I'm also trying to keep it as light and simple as possible - I'd like to be able to pick up replacement parts in nearly any auto parts store. So knowing that I'm going to be replacing the front axle when this one finally gives out, what would you recommend?
I swapped in JK axles 30/44 in my Tj because they are stronger than Tj axles and the Front axle was pretty built so I didn’t have to do much aftermarket stuff to make it fit.
If you make the trip down to Moab, head east a little and check out Ouray, CO. One trip there in a rental jeep and it got me hooked on jeeps and offroading in general. Unbelievable scenery! Lots of hardcore trails up in Montrose not far from there as well.
I rather have a u joint and use it like a fusible link. Easier to change. And installed axle trusses on dana 44s with 40in tires no problems for years besides broken u joints
You kind of got your high pinion explanation wrong. The reason it is stronger is because a high pinion in a front application pushes the pinion into the case under load. This is the bigger of the 2 bearings and the better oiled bearing so it can take the load and heat better. The reverse cut does not pull the pinion into the the gear and does not decrease deflection. If you run a low pinion in the front then the pinion drives on the coast side of the ring and puts the load on the pinion bearing behind the pinion nut. This is less desirable but was a simple factory compromise to save cost. It worked well for the OEM's because as it turnes out most people never use 4WD so the gear sets still last a very long time.
Hey man great video! I am not a "off road" enthusiasts in the terms of rock crawling but I do like to go literally "off the road" in my truck occasionally. I have a 96 f250 with a ttb and I just bought a Dana 60 out of a 97 f350. I am planning on going through it while its out (reseal, bearings, ujoints, etc.) and I was just wondering what you would recommend given how I use my truck. Any must does/upgrades? Running 4.10s with 315/75/16r on a 4inch lift Thanks man!
As a mechanical engineer, this video was phenomenal at breaking down the specific design differences in the axles that directly translate to performance differences. Thumbs up from me!
Thank you! Big endorsement 👍
And I’m a soldier in call of duty
“2 inches doesnt sound like a lot but it is” - Thats what she said. (Couldn’t resist - great video!)
I have the stock Dana 30 on my xj. Lunchbox lockers, stock shafts, and 35s and I’ve never had a single issue... until I drove it. Now I’m watching axle swap for beginners lol
You are backwards on your High Pinion Direction, It is stronger When you push your ring gear with your pinion not pull. i.e. low pinion rear pinion pushes ring gear, high pinion front pushes the ring gear. Think of it as you want to load up the larger pinion bearing. But you did pretty good nice job putting it together.
Great video! Very useful information. I almost built the D30 that came in my YJ. It ended up being cheaper for me to just get a D44. Lots more piece of mind. I have a D44 low pinion in the front with chromolys and locker. And a trussed Ford 8.8 in the rear. Both geared at 4.56, running 35s, and my stock 4cyl. Works great for me.
just curious how did you match up the wheel lug patterns i have a 8,8with 5x4.5 and a 6 lug 44 and i want to match the wheel lug patterns
I really appreciate the detailed and comprehensive information you keep putting out in these videos. You are a tremendous resource to the community.
Something to emphasize on the pumpkin clearance is that you can run larger tires on the bigger axles so the loss of clearance is made up by tire size.
I know this is a year old, but Nate this is a great video that many people will benefit from seeing. 👍🏼
You prolly dont give a shit but does someone know a trick to get back into an instagram account..?
I stupidly lost the password. I would love any tricks you can offer me!
@Allan Jad instablaster :)
@@allanjad1668 hit “reset password” and make a new one
Built a C8.25 rear locked and TJ D30 w/ cromo axle shafts , open diff for my YJ , running 35s and very happy with the build. Also did the WJ big brake upgrade and rebuild both axles completely .... was to be a budget build but a total rebuild parts add up lol
Thank you! This helps so much in learning the diffrence and the honesty of "just build it right and dont worry" thats so true and great info!
Some people just like learning the hard way but that'll stick with em lol
A high pinion 30 and 8.8 rear are pretty inexpensive upgrades for a streetable TJ on 35s. The main issue I ran in to with this combo is the 8.8 hangs low and drags on everything. Then the hp30 hardened locker crosspin broke and backed out, wedging between the ring and pinion, which then stripped my gears and exploded the carrier. I replaced the parts and drove it for a while longer, but went the superduty 60/10.5 combo along with a backhalf, stretch, and full hydro steering on 40s.
I have driven Jeeps for years, and never broke an Axle. I have had a propeller shaft fail on a rock climb in a 95 Jeep Grand Cheorkee, 5.2 liter V8, 4.11 geared axles and 33" tires. I drove in MOab and up the lions back in a 76 CJ-7 with T-18 4 Speed, Dana 20 Transfer case, Stock Dana 30 front axle and stock AMC 20 rear axle. with 4.11 gears and a two inch lift. I forgot the size tires, but remember they were Armstrong Norseman. I managed to go everywhere I wanted with little fuss or muss and didn't even strip out the hub on the AMC axle.
I have a Dana 44 in the front of my 76 Bronco with Chromoly axles and never had a problem. I've never thought about installing a truss, but I like the idea. Great information!
Holy crap. Sorry I know this is a older video but dang. I learned SO MUCH from this video. I can't thank you enough. I never knew most of this info.
*Only the "Super 60" has the 10" ring gear. These are in 2005-2020 F-450/550 and 2017+ F-250/350. In the 2017 MY, the pinion size was increased substantially, and Dana internally calls it the M256.*
2004 and 2005 f250 super duty Dana 60 has the same ring gear size?
Finally a well done video explaining what they are with opinions about what to do with them. Very helpful. Keep em coming please!
I definitely will! 👍 thanks for watching
I ran a locked Dana 30 on a V8 ZJ on 35s with 4.88 gears for years without issues. Had IRO "almost alloy" axle shafts with Spicer 760x ujoints and the end caps welded. Ran IRO internal axle sleeves as well. Most importantly though, I drove it like it was a Dana 30 haha sometimes people treat them like it's a 60 and of course it's gonna blow!!
Had the 35's on my ZJ and broke the stock rear D35 first time out. D44 fixed it!
So true, two identical trucks go through a trail, exact same obstacles, one comes out looking as it went in, one comes out destroyed.
He's exactly right, when it comes to ground clearance on the 60.
I put one on my 1969 Ford F350 c class motorhome, and I wouldn't dream of going less then 36 inch tall tires.
Amazing amount of research and information. And instead of asking this question, I'm going to
your other uploads to see when to change 4:10 to 4:55. --- Thanks for the great upload. ---
Excellent information Nate. Pulling my D30 to do new inner seals. Adding outer seals because of the amount of sludge, mud and crap on the east coast. Already upgraded to Yukon 30 spline chromoly axles when I upgraded the ring and pinion and 4.56 gears after I bought it in CA. Stub shafts and heavy duty u-joints from Yukon are also going in. Truss will be added too, as well as lower control arm skids. Sure, it's a D30, but it will be solid. Don't have the $$ for sleeves and gussets for this go round. Running 33's now and moving to 35's as soon as the Tread wears down.
Nice man, that's going to be a solid setup 👍
Perfect advice.. d30-44 don’t break in jeeps from good wheeling. They break cause if weak joints which in turn destroy the shaft.. or they break cause if thinner tubes flexing. In my last TJ’s I always ran d44 swaps from fords or waggys, my current project Cherokee I’ll be sticking with the hp30 with a truss and rcv shafts cause getting anything larger then a 36-37 on a Cherokee and retaining any reasonable resemblance to a Cherokee and flex that just all you can reasonably do.
I would like to hear your take on rears too. I already got the 8.8 locked with alloys swapped in the rear just need to truss it when I go 4 link. As big as the 8.8 swap is in the xj world I feel it’s a highly overlooked option in the tj and yj world. My last TJ ran a 8.8 rear with waggy front.
As far are rears go.. I really don’t understand all this d60 hype and never had? You can swap in a shaved 14 for that weight while having same clearance and way way stronger setup. You have to really build a 60 to touch a stock 14 with just welded spiders. Tons are just way to heavy imop unless you’re over landing and carrying a ton of weight.
In my 20 or so years of wheeling I’ve bent more shafts then I’ve broken and that’s from tube flex under shock load. Hell even back in the day before I had a clue I was running a super 35 kit on 37’s and never broke a shaft.. bent a few from pulling others out in bigger heavier rigs where I really had to snatch from 20-30’ feet and that shock bent axles which also destroys the bearings but even then I never snapped one.
I’ve seen more people break shocks etc wo straps and walk their 60’s under their rigs ripping apart drive shafts and all kinds of stuff cause they are so same heavy then I’ve ever had with smaller properly built axles on proper weighted rigs with proper size tires.
And the hype over these rubi axles swaps is highly misguided.. they are lip d30 with a modified 44 housing. The knuckles, tubes, joints etc are all 30 lol. The rubi is nothing more then and 8.8 version of a Janice jk swap into a standard 44. You’re getting a bigger and hence stronger with tall gearing d30.
You’re axles aren’t breaking cause they are weak they are breaking cause they are flexing.. (hence truss and sleeves) your joints don’t break cause they are weak they break cause they are weak at angles. You’re 1310 driveshaft joint is the same as the one conserving your purées to your inners.. yet you’re breaking front joints bot drive shafts joints cause you’re at full lock and putting them in a bing which means the inner is moving regular speed while the outer is moving much slower. (Extra stress) I can’t help but feel Jeep people are so far behind the times when it comes to what breakers and why. The reason a $5000 Tacoma will never break anything is cause they are running cv shafts instead of ujoints. How many yots with dual t case running 127-1 crawl do you see breaking weak 7-8” axles? It’s not the axles it’s the joints. Throw a $100 truss on that hp30 run some rcv shafts and be done. While your buddies are refinancing their house to pay for a 60 and 40+ tires to clear them you’ll be wheeling.
Yeah I wanna do a 44 so its stronger but not a massive axle like the 60
I don’t push my yj very hard, so my d44 front and rear with ARB’s are holding up great. When my axels were build we build cromoly in the front.
I had a low pinion Dana 30 and I beat on it for 2 years with 35’s and it held great never had a problem than I sold the truck and I’m actually about to swap one into my daily driver ford ranger and do some 33’s for hunting and driving around on gravel roads
I have a 1963 Wagoneer version of you blue Jeep. Mine is a Willy's and has the OHC Tornado 6 in it. I bought if for either $50 or $100 close to 25 years ago. It's a little lighter blue than yours. Sheet metal is all good but the floor pans and seats need work. Been sitting pretty much since I bought it. The guy I bought it from had broken a shifting fork and that's why it was so cheap. It ran like a watch and after my dad welded up the fork it was fine. I need to bring it home and get it fixed up because it's a sweet truck.
i ran a dana 60 in my drag car with 800 hp ran it for years great stuff
Sweet, but isn't that a lot of weight for a drag car?
@@adamsmith5913 it was a rail job a dragster long n skinny with a wing out back kinda looks like a top fuel dragster she only weighed 1565 pound so she hauled ass what fun !!!
Another great video ... my wife even watched it and started asking me questions about axles ..... weird
Hold on to her with both hands, don't let that one go
Wife: sooo, whats your friends axle size ?
@@Narcoteca 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Great informative video, and there is nothing like a USA 🇺🇸 made Dana 60 which was built for me by a good friend.
Cheers 🍻
Thanks man, your video really helped Me out, I'm in my 20s and trying my best to learn. Everything is so technical and forum have too many options with strong opinions towards Everything.
Nice to see a simple video break it all down :)
Doing an ls swap on my YJ now I'm looking into axel swaps thank you for the information very helpful
Nice! Glad I can help👍
Another great video! D30 are better than they are given credit, especially the HP 30.
As long as you are fine with replacing the unit bearings every couple years.
Chrysler 8.25 ! Xj 96-99 had the 29 spline. Many say just as good as a D44 other then that damn C clip
@@CD-W0DOS do a disc brake conversion on a chrysler 8.25 and if you do happen to break an axle the rotor will hold the wheel in to get off the trail. That's what I did as a poor man's way of keeping the axle in in the event of a failure.
@@CD-W0DOS that's comparing apples and oranges. You wont see a 30 in the rear and you wont see a 8.25 in the front
Great video nate. One thing im putting a f250 dana 44 in my YJ to run 35s. The biggest reasons are for the lockouts, bigger brakes, no unit bearings, and high steer. All of those are an added cost trying to beef a dana 30. Running the 67 inch width but with 3rd gen dodge wheels with 6 inch backspacing.
That should be a pretty fun and reliable toy! The only thing I would recommend is bring some spare shafts with you if you plan on running the stock ones. It's very thin around the ears of the shaft so the stock ones are pretty easy to break. Ask me how I know lol. Thanks for watching buddy 👍
Well done. great vid. Went and googled axle truss and dana 30 was at the top of the list that showed up.
i can count myself lucky that i bought my 2nd gen ram with 4x4 here in germany.
Dana 44 in the front and i always thought i want a better axle if i go offroad. Since i didnt know better at that time.
Now i know from all the videos and research that the axles in there are definitely going to say and just get upgraded.
The plan is to start from the axles for upgrades and go back the driveline until i reach the engine for upgrades.
Got a NV4500 Gearbox in there, which is not the best for offroading from what i know now because Automatics are actually better.
Right now i have the 5 stud hubs But i would like to have the 8stud hubs to have the locking hubs. But if there are 5 stud hubs with lockers i would take them too.
will see in forums and such if someone can help me along with my build over the years.
But i extremely apreciate the effort people put into explaining for beginners all over UA-cam. Thank you all.
I was pretty excited until 13:25 when you mentioned V-8 and Dana 30. I’m running a TJ magnum V8 360 and NV4500 with an 8.8 Ford in the rear and you guessed it, Dana 30 still in the front!! The 30 is completely stock with a spartan locker 4.11. 35” Cooper STT Pro. In the last year of moderate wheeling I’ve lost 2 U joints and I’ve now bent the ears on the stub. Was hoping to stay Dana 30 HP with 30 spline chrome Molly shafts. Sounds like with a V-8 I should skip and go to Dana 60 but that’s a pretty big mismatch for my Ford 8.8 which seems to be doing great.
I should add the only reason the 30 stubs have bent ears because It spit 760 U Joint caps out. That’s the driver side. Passenger side caps are welded down.
Perfect. Just what I was looking for. I'm currently researching for a 99 XJ. Thanks for posting.
Good man! Happy to help 👍
I’ve seen high pinion 9 inch fords, but I don’t know if they’re stock, or aftermarket.
Thanks for answering my question, and starting your own channel👍👍👍
The high 9s are sweet! Definitely not stock but I really like the clearance and what not that come with a high pinion rear. Perfect for a light weight low horsepower build
Not my application, but still helped me...need to beef up my Ford 8.8 rear end...and? You helped a little. Thanks!
I want 37” on a Rubicon so this video really helps me wrap my mind around what else I need. Thanks!
I'm glad I could help! thanks for watching 👍
I swear this must be one of the best channels on youtube it’s going to get big bro.
Thank you! I hope it continues to grow! I really enjoy putting these together
While a Hi pinion axle is nice. But if your vehicle is passenger drop. Your not going to find a factory hi pinion. So if your trying to be budget friendly your going to have to use a low pinion.
Great video man tons of info I have just thrown my 05 LJ on a super60 front and a 14 bolt rear and I still learned from your video!
Just looking to buy my first rig. Been watching your videos and learning a ton! Love the way you break all the info down. Only a few hours drive from Moab. I can’t wait to start building my own rig and get out there.
Great informational videos, most of us aren’t mechanics but your videos help us make educated decisions so Thanks!
Your high pinion is ok if your talking about driverside driveline drop for 80s and up jeeps all Fords and 94ish dodge and up... but if your like my and have a solid axle Chevy! High pinion is not a option without major modifications...
I’d love to see you revisit this / rear axles combos when you hopefully refresh your TJ!! 1 tons and lsx swaps are awesome don’t get me wrong but I like knowing the other options! I hope to copy you one day on a agile TJ I’m leaning to a ford 9” rear and a d44 hp front I have loads more research to do!
"RCV is not a sponsor of this video but it would be a whole lot cooler if they were" lol I enjoyed the video man. great no bs info.
Lol thanks man! Yeah it would be great if they were! Glad you enjoyed the video 👍
Really awesome stuff!!! Deep pockets help to make which axles you are going to run a lot easier......lol!!!!
Lol absolutely
@Dirt Lifestyle . I would love to see a deep dive comparison for a Dana 30 to a Dana 44 axle. I have a JKU & I am trying to decide.
There is so much information out there I'm glad you made this video. It should clear up alot of nonsense.
Thanks! I felt the same way. This was the motivation behind putting this video together. Thanks for watching!
Great video!!! I have a 2000 XJ. The junkyard down the road has a D30HP in great condition. Going to get it next paycheck.
Well, this explains how I "exploded" my Wrangler's Dana 35. Great video. Thank you.
I'm heading to a junkyard in Nashville on February 21st to pull a 60 from a 99-04 and a 14 bolt rear. I've only owned my Jeep a year-and-a-half and I'm already going broke. I'm following you on insta as well. Keep up the good work 👌
Nice! Lol we all live the "broke lifstyle"
Here are just some breakfast thought reasons that companies make mostly low-pinion front axles.
*1* customer interest; most customers do not care about, nor ever come close to needing, maximum strength and ground clearance for the front differential, and would not want to pay more for a special axle they will not utilize to much extent.
*2* It is not cost-effective to make an entire different set of gears for a special axle that would make up maybe 10-20% of the total axles built when standard gears are usable. In fact, it is often cheaper to simply use a larger front differential than to improve the existing one (this is what Chevy did with the Dana 60 KP front)
*3* (This one is a big one) Chassis clearance. Many of the later solid-front 4x4 trucks actually have very little room around the front differential and (at stock height) do not have the necessary clearance for the high pinion or its driveshaft to fit without raising the floor pan, moving crossmembers, or lifting the whole truck. (The perfect example is 62-91 wagoneers and J-trucks; some have less than 1/2” driveshaft/diff clearance to the chassis around it)
*4* Oiling: due to many things (but basically summed up to the direction of gear rotation), the high-pinion front gears actually have inferior oil supply to the pinion bearings, especially the rear bearing. This applies at highway speed, and equally or more so, on the trail. Whereas a low pinion is constantly bathing in gear oil, a high pinion is relying on the oil splashed and flung into it by the ring gear. As speed decreases, oil to the high pinion will decrease accordingly . Theoretically a low pinion front(and rear) will last more miles due to the better lubrication.
I absolutely love high pinion front axles, even have plans to make custom high-pinion rear axles in the future. It is just always good to look and ask, “Why did the engineer put this here and not here?” Remember, the engineer has a boss that is going to harass them for every design choice, so they have a reason for their design. Hopefully the aforementioned thoughts help soften any hard feelings to manufacturers for their choice of components. At the same time, KUDOs to the ones that did use high pinions... *applause to Ford*
Just my 0.02, take or leave it
Good points 👍 to think about for individuals specific design need excellent food for thought simplicity at it's finest time Anon Ymus take care .
Awesome video man, I've been asking these questions ever since I've owned my 2000 WJ. This video is very informative, thank you for making it.
No prob! Thanks for watching!
It's been 2 years since your comment. What did you decide to do ?
Dana 30 is good for building a Samurai hunting truck, 44 is entry level, 60 is meaning business Dana 70 is simply awesome and impossible to break, the two I have are bullet proof and are massive with Detroit lockers being the only thing to hold together.
Well a 60 and 70 have the same shaft size stock at 1.5" for the 35 spline versions. For most people the smaller housing of the 60 is more desirable for ground clearance. The 70 was developed as a high GVW axle for dual rear wheel applications which gave it larger bearings and ring gear. The 80 is larger yet with an 11.25" ring gear and 1 9/16" axle shafts for the 37 spline version. All of them are great axle choices because they are readily available and well supported.
I love my 1 tons on my Tacoma. Yeah it might be a bit overkill, but boy can she take the abuse. Shafts, super joints, Reid knuckles yukon shafts... id never go back lol
Dana 60 ring gear is 9 3/4”.
I definitely learned something! Oh BTW, depending on your build, selectable hubs might be nice if you have an auto locker in the front and want 2-low (might be good for tight narrow trails)
For some reason I'm really getting interested in the Jeep XJs. (Dad delivered mail out in the country side with one that was a 4x4, I6, 2-door, red, and right hand drive when they were new.) I don't see myself doing crazy rock crawling with one, but really enjoyed the information you provided. For me, a retired engineer, I absolutely love over-engineering stuff :-) So upgrading the original Dana 30 with a stouter R&P, chorme-moly axles, better U-Joints (or CV joint?), and a truss would go well for an XJ with slightly larger tires and more power.
Thanks for the information Dirt Lifestyle !!!!!!!!
I agree. Referring that hanging fruit 2 inches could mean the difference between oh my and oh my god😂
I really really got a lot out of this video. You have a new and enthusiastic subscriber!
Great! Welcome aboard!
Crossing my fingers. But I have a built d30 and run 37s with a stock engine in my jk. So far it has lasted over a year. And that's hitting windrock, blackmountain and various other places multiple times. I'll upgrade to a d60 when it breaks. But it's still hanging tuff!
Nice!
One thing you're right about ... One tons weigh a frickin ton! Great video Nate! Watching from Tennessee
Lol Yeah dude these things are beasts! I'm going to make my way your direction one of these years. I haven't spent a whole lot of time in the South East, But I love music, so visiting Nashville's definitely my bucket list. 🤘
@@DirtLifestyle come on down bud we will show you some southern hospitality. My band plays all the time in Nash (tonight and tomorrow as a matter of fact haha) but we'd love to give ya the VIP treatment 💪
Good info for newbies. I'm running a HP 30 with sleeves but no truss with 30 spline chrome moly axles and an Ox locker on 35s and no problems for about 10 yrs in a 2001 xj.
Nice man! Sounds like you are at least a fairly sensible driver lol. I think these can be great axles with the right owner. I have a full hp 30 build series on the way. We're going to build it for 37s and keep it on 35s... for now 👍
@@DirtLifestyle hey can you message me at my email address, I have some questions about these axles. I'm trying to figure out the route I want to take on my tj. Dgrefsrud85@gmail.com
Machinist in Texas, dude I’ll quit my job and drive my ‘88 MJ all the way there to work. You’re living my dream job. Seriously though.
Awesome video subbed🤘🏼
Lol I'm not living the dream job yet! I still have a day job. As the channel grows I plan on doing this full time but for now I'm a commercial plumber by day and a youtuber by night. 👍
Dirt Lifestyle well I’ll level with you real quick. Watching this video has genuinely made me realize that turning steeling is a great trait but building Jeeps and such vehicles of the same fait is what I wanna do. I’ve wrenched on mine for I guess about 5-6 yrs now. An I’ve been a machinist for 10, it’s taught me a lot and will help in gaining skill but this is my new path. It wasn’t solely this video but it’s definitely the one that has made me make up my mind. If you start that anytime soon just drop me a line bro. Otherwise looks like I’ll be moving to Colorado soon! Or wherever I find a healthy Jeep/wheelin community. Keep up the good work and best of luck!!!
All the dislikes = people who came for blind Dana 30 hate.
Been wheeling in my V8 ZJ on my dana 30 low pinion for 8 years now with only one issue, and that issue is that my unit bearings keep wearing out every couple years.
Of course, I don't have lockers, but I also don't have any upgraded parts or even an axle truss. And I'm not exactly easy on my axle. I don't like giving up on obstacles.
03 stock dana 30, low pinion, on red trails in PA. I wouldn't bother beefing up the D30. Just dont ride fast and hard.
@@KurNorock you think 30 has hate , look at the Dana 35
@@Mr2greys I'm not saying its a great axle. I am just saying mine hasn't really given me issues. That being said, I have been wanting to upgrade to 1 tons for years.
The 35 is shit though. I've seen those things break with only minor stress. Luckily my ZJ came with the 44HD rear axle (aka the 44a) which is much stronger than people give it credit for. The only real drawback to it is that there is almost no aftermarket support for it.
I love your channel.
I have a one ton truck with one ton axles. Timken F35 rear, and Dana 70F front. Great truck.
Nice video the way you explain things is great a friend of mine is going D60s with 40s but on his stock 3.8 jk I told him to much weight that engine doesn't have the torque chip+intake or supercharger deep gears not enough
Thanks man! Yeah he definitely won't break anything with that 3.8 lol. But at least he future proofed it. Time for an engine swap 🤘
Super informative. Best explanation of axel characteristics out there.
Another great , super informative video, Nate! Keep 'em coming. This is becoming my favorite channel.
Thank you! Glad you enjoying the content 👍
Yes, thanks for doing this video. This has been confusing to me; and I appreciate the info
Thanks! great info, could ya mention Horsepower and torque handling of each? I like big blocks 😁
good video! im trying to learn more about axle options as im contemplating a build and dont want to spend an arm and a leg just on axles.
fyi some stock axle shafts are indeed chromoly, which is just term for any 41xx steel, there is actually quite a wide range of "chromoly" steels from 4118 to 4161, the first two numbers designating the chromium and molybdenum alloys (thus chro-moly) the second two designating the percentage carbon by weight (4140 has .40% carbon). a more common axle steel for stock applications is a medium carbon 10xx steel (1040, 1050). although i will also say that heat treat plays a very critical role in how these steels proform.
Thank you so much!! This definitely helps me understand different size axles much better.
Excellent video. Everything very clearly explained and straight to the point. Subscribed!
Thank you! Happy to have you aboard! 🤘
Really great beginners guide!
Thanks bud
Excellent video! I'm new to the Jeeping community and this helped me a lot. Great info!
Words to live by “budget a little bigger.” Never made an upgrade on budget. There is always something I missed or need to modify and the budget goes up.
Could you do a video like this for rear axles? Maybe to keep it simple just do D35, D44, D60, and D70 or D80
I'd love to hear your recommendations on what axle to use with what tire size and weight/payload
Great suggestion! It just when on the list 👍
How could you not add the 14 bolt to that list !!
@@43trendkiller44 cause it's similar to the D70
Im also in Washington. Just started a jk build. Very good video
Amazing video. I'm new to the off-road world so I'm learning a lot. Got yourself a new subscriber!
Awesome man, thank you!
Will all dana 44 diferentials, carrier pluse ring and pinion, fit onto all dana 44 housings?
So much information thanks. Have a better idea on the axle route I am taking
I'm happy to help 👍
Brilliant post....about 5 years to late for me brilliant none the less. Thanks for taking the time to do it.
Thanks man! Sorry it's a little late lol but I'm glad you enjoyed it 👍
what a goldmine of information. thank you so much
I have a Dana 44 front axel from a J10 in my shed and a ford 8.8 rear axle in my shed
I really would love to see a comparison to the Toyota Land Cruiser axels
When running Dana 30s for a while run a truetrac in the front. it’s not nearly as hard on things as a locker and brings down the breakage factor a lot
I know the Dodge Dana aren't really desirable but Ive been running axle locked Dana's out of Dodge for ever and really don't see much of a difference in locked vs unlocked. Kinda cool running old school Dodge parts like the Axles/T-Case and being able to slip it in and out of 4x4 with no clunk, bind, pops or anything at highway speeds.😂😂 Shifts in and out like butter...
I put dana 30 and 35 in my s10 and it handled 33's with a lot of abuse and never bent or broke anything aside from driveshafts (ended up upgrading to SYE), tie rods (ultimately upgraded to 1 tons) and a few sets of ball joints wore out quickly. Now its got 34's and I wheel it a lot easier, been consider welding the rear end into a locker. Eventually the axles will prob be the weak spot but at the point it prob wont even be road worthy. Ive been trying to keep it reasonable to skate around town into the woods.
Seen those arm tattoos. Instantly knew this guy is from washington. Good video thanks!
Nate, I have a question for you about front axle choices, so let me give a quick overview of the rig:
I have a 1948 Willys CJ2A that was stretched 24 inches at the Spokane dealership after receiving it from the factory. The stretch was installed at the step-up in the floor directly behind the front seats.
The current drivetrain is Dauntless 225 V6, stock T90/D18 trans and transfer case, PS offset D44 with two-piece axle shafts, and the stock D25 front axle. With the exception of the front axle, I'll be keeping this setup for reasons I'll hit in a minute.
This is my daily driver and it's going to be built and used as an overlanding rig. Design-wise, I'll be building it as a 'what if Willys had built an overlanding/safari truck on an extended CJ chassis in the late 1940s?" I want to be able to drive it into remote areas on or off road, but rock crawling isn't an intended usage unless there's no other way to get where I want to go. Even then, I'm going to take the easiest route.
As concessions to safety and drivability, it has four-corner manual disc brakes and the V6 so it can mostly roll with modern traffic. Once I upgrade away from the Ross steering, I'll fit a hydrovac for power brakes. I'm hoping to start fabbing the 'family-style' exocage this summer. It will be as minimal as I can make it, but will incorporate a roof rack and light mounts. I'm currently planning on 1.75 inch 0.095 wall DOM or Chromalloy for the tubing to keep the weight down.
When actively overlanding, it has a slide-in tray that has gear storage underneath and a sleeping platform on top. The setup weighs about 60 pounds. The custom-made canvas top incorporates a driver's side tip-out for sleeping in the back when the tray is installed. Total weight of the tray and gear and two adults is about 800 pounds. This includes water, extra fuel, food, tools, spares, etc.
There will be additional weight added to the vehicle when I build the roll cage and I'm planning on two more fuel tanks. One in the center of rig under the floor at about 27 gallons and a CJ5/7 tank in front of the rear bumper at 15 or 21 gallons.
The jeep weighed in at about 2400lbs empty. All of this is currently supported on Rancho 2.5 inch lift springs and open C shackles (I know - someday I hope to have a set of OME springs) . Tires are 235/85R16s on stock rims, so about 33" tall. While neither the 24" stretch or 33" tires are good for turning radius, the 33s are necessary to regain the loss of breakover introduced by the stretch. They're the tallest tires I plan on using.
I replaced the D41 rear axle a few years ago when the ring and pinion finally wore out. 5.38 gears are hard to find for a D41 so it was replaced with a late 60's offset narrow-track D44. Future upgrades for this include a 31-spline full-float conversion and a selectable locker.
I know the front axle will give out sooner or later - I'm already running a used 5.38 gearset and they're pretty much unobtainable at this point. I'd also like a selectable locker in the front, and that pretty much kills keeping the D25 anyway. One additional requirement is that the tires have to stay tucked inside the body - so stock WMS is critical, even if I need to custom fab the axle.
So I'm finally to my questions.
First, I have Rzeppa axle shafts for the D25. If you're not familiar with them, they're the strongest stock shaft for the D25 and they have a fully rebuildable CV knuckle. Will these fit a D27 or D30?
Second, I'm trying to stay as close to stock as I can in appearance. I'm also trying to keep it as light and simple as possible - I'd like to be able to pick up replacement parts in nearly any auto parts store. So knowing that I'm going to be replacing the front axle when this one finally gives out, what would you recommend?
I swapped in JK axles 30/44 in my Tj because they are stronger than Tj axles and the Front axle was pretty built so I didn’t have to do much aftermarket stuff to make it fit.
How did that go for you? I am setting up to do that on my tj build as well. I am planning on using artec jk2tj truss. What did you do for a track bar
Nick K go on Facebook and look up “Jeeps with jk axles” all my info is there.
That's been a very good Information in this Video. Especially for my Gladiator's cummins swap 👍
Thats why I keep snapping stub shafts. Thank you for the info!
Absolutely! Glad I can help 👍
If you make the trip down to Moab, head east a little and check out Ouray, CO. One trip there in a rental jeep and it got me hooked on jeeps and offroading in general. Unbelievable scenery!
Lots of hardcore trails up in Montrose not far from there as well.
I rather have a u joint and use it like a fusible link. Easier to change. And installed axle trusses on dana 44s with 40in tires no problems for years besides broken u joints
You kind of got your high pinion explanation wrong. The reason it is stronger is because a high pinion in a front application pushes the pinion into the case under load. This is the bigger of the 2 bearings and the better oiled bearing so it can take the load and heat better. The reverse cut does not pull the pinion into the the gear and does not decrease deflection.
If you run a low pinion in the front then the pinion drives on the coast side of the ring and puts the load on the pinion bearing behind the pinion nut. This is less desirable but was a simple factory compromise to save cost. It worked well for the OEM's because as it turnes out most people never use 4WD so the gear sets still last a very long time.
I know someone who broke an RCV they wouldn't even talk to him until he removed a post on Pirate. They then replaced it
Hey man great video! I am not a "off road" enthusiasts in the terms of rock crawling but I do like to go literally "off the road" in my truck occasionally. I have a 96 f250 with a ttb and I just bought a Dana 60 out of a 97 f350. I am planning on going through it while its out (reseal, bearings, ujoints, etc.) and I was just wondering what you would recommend given how I use my truck. Any must does/upgrades? Running 4.10s with 315/75/16r on a 4inch lift Thanks man!