I built a box for a DD shallow 12 it's 4.5" deep 1.48 cubes tuned to 30hz it replaces the floor cover for the back of my Kia and you still have access to the spare tire
You brought up a good point you can make a really small box but most thin subs still require almost the same amount of air space as a full size sub you save on depth size but you end up with a wider and taller box to get the air space 🙈🎶👌✌️👍💯🥂
Hello I have a 2020 grand Cherokee under the driver seat there is a cubby area that’s approx 14” long 10” wide and the cubby itself approx 10 “ to 12” deep with a lid that covers it . My idea is to put an 8” JL 8w3 in the lid mounted to the lid with a 1” plastic spacer ring on the top and 4 1” mdf rings to go into the inside of the cubby with the sub . My question is with a small airspace like that am I better off leaving it sealed or trying to add a small hole to have an air port to let some of the air out ? I know for large enclosures you typically want porting but with limited air space idk which way would be better . Thoughts ? Thanks . Btw I am trying to keep all factory looking so any visible enclosures are a no go at the moment . Thanks .
That is a great question, join us on our next live show and we will try to give a detailed answer, we are about to start right now! ua-cam.com/users/livekHI6P5K7W-k
Man this video couldn't be timed any better. I was talking with a friend today about building a box for his Tacoma to go behind his seat. This is pretty much the exact same situation he is running into. He keeps thinking big...big...big! I keep telling him it takes space to make bass also.
Yep, wife had a craft show this weekend and I managed to get her set up, work on the demo rig and get her tore down and packed up. Thank God I'm getting a back injection tomorrow. Lol
Great timing on this video I never gave shallow subs a second thought until the last few weeks I am buying a vehicle with a factory subwoofer installed and been considering my options to utilize the same space. Glad you have confirmed that Hoffman's law still applies here :)
I'm curious (concerning small box subs) why manufacturers of the thin subs don't incorporate tapped holes in the bottom plate of the motor structure (the very bottom of the sub) to screw bolts into from the backside of the box/cabinet/enclosure. Its seems to be a very logical way to stiffen the box and the sub within the box while at the same time making the box as thin width-wise as possible. Obviously, this would only work with subs that don't have a rear vented pole piece, but there are plenty of folks making subs without rear vents. NVX also uses a metal plate so you can mount the sub deeper into the cabinet... this could also be incorporated in such a way that you could bolt the plate to the enclosure and then bolt the sub to the plate. This would allow the thinnest structurally strongest enclosure. Do you see any reason why this wouldn't work well for the people who would build their enclosure that way?
i have the 2 JL audio 10TW3 , in truck style boxes vented and they really surprised me on the sound coming out of them. i have a 2010 element and i still have plenty of trunk space and i can easily remove the boxes if i need more space.
Hi looking to put this in a Pontiac fiero. Crutchfield says the space behind the seat. 18”w 24” 4” what do you think. I was originally thinking about the JL audio shallow
Does the shape of your air space inside the box matter? Like with that shallow box you built, could it simply be built wider and keep the depth to gain the space you need?
Hey! Great video! I was wondering were I can get an aluminum plate just like the one is provided with the NVX sub? To use it with a different brand shallow sub. I was looking at NVX webpage to see if I could get a "replacement" but there's no options. Thank you in advanced, great content!
I have a pair of pioneer TS-ZL10S, I plan to run them in a .5 cuft sealed box each. I also have 3 Soundstream Stealth-13 subs that I never even installed.
I "dry-fit" all of my speaker/subwoofer projects by drawing them to scale in Microsoft Visio. You can see examples of the drawings I make at the end of my subwoofer videos.
@@DIYAudioGuy I've been using Visio for 16 years now, for all kinds of projects. For example, I use it to design my folded horn subwoofers (along with Hornresp). I use it to plan my vegetable garden layout every year. I have over 200 Visio project files. Can't imagine being without it. It's much easier to use than any CAD program I've tried.
I'm currently using the 2011 pioneer shallow mount 12" subs in my regular cab silverado. I was a bit sceptical about how much bass they would put out but they surprised me. Pioneer recommends .5-1.0 cu.ft. I originally had them in a really small prefab enclosure which gave them .55 each and they weren't half bad but I could tell they were being under utilized so I found a prefab box that would fit my truck that gave them .85cu.ft. each and boy did they open up. They put out bass I never thought was possible with a shallow sub. I later on purchased a 3rd one so I could cram 3 behind my seat but personally don't see the point.
I just built a 1.4 cubic foot box tuned to 30 hz for a couple Pioneer D series shallow 10's. They sound good and have pretty good response down to 30 hz like I anticipated. I may end up running a single larger sub with more xmax with a Skar RP 1200 amp I just picked up. Currently running the Pionneers with an 8701 800 watt Pioneer digital amp.
Ok I looked at the 2 different pre fab boxes that you suggested a couple of days ago. The 1 that I like is out of stock. I have all if the materials to build my own and a full wood shop including a CNC. I'm putting these two Kicker Comp cx 10s in under the bunk of my semi truck. The foot print area is 22" x 20" and 13" tall. I'll have 1200 watts from my amp. Can you suggest a set of plans for these? I play mostly rock jazz and funk. Thank you in advance for any help.
Awesome! I don't have any plans like that handy and I am taking a break form custom plans (busy season at the day job). But you have 3.3 gross cubic ft, do you should have plenty of room to build something. I suggest that you call kicker tech support, they will do it for free over the phone.
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i hope there is going to be some dsp testing on this subwoofer build, i think you can add large amounts of dsp in the form of parametric eq with no ill effects. but would like to see others try it out.
When I got my Scion xB I didn't want to give up any cargo space nor did I want to give up my spare, so I opted for small enclosure optimized Rockford Fosgate 8" to fit under the front seats. Using Sketchup I was able to make multiple designs before wood touched saw. I tried for a .707 response which meant I had to find created ways to gain cubic inches. In the end, it was made from 1/2" Baltic Birch, with the sub frame flush with the front of the box face. By mounting the spkr to a ring that was attached to the interior side of the box face, I was able to gain a few more cubic inches of volume. Here a digital angle finder was used to find the cut angle, but an easier way is to use a sliding bevel gauge. A sliding bevel gauge will get the exact angle and lets you set your saw blade up to that exact angle. No math!
Most thin subs are actually a FS around 45hz. Really a good relief for the 40-80 hz to fill the shortcomings of 6.5 midbass. Gotta have the big box to hit the low bass. They are great under seat or a front sub. I have a couple 8’s as front subs in a super small box. Still have to have the bigger 12’s in the trunk!!
Excellent video! A great point to make though, in situations where space is super limited, it is worth considering smaller subwoofers! Typically, your normal 6.5" or 8" subwoofer only has a mounting depth of 3-4", requires 0.25-0.5 of air space per driver, and might even sound better than the restricted shallow 10" or 12" you'd try to squeeze back behind the seat of a truck. It's all a matter of picking the right subwoofer for the right application.
That's probably the route I'm probably going with my Yaris hatchback. The trunk is already small and I use it everyday to carry lots of stuff so the best spot for a sub box is below the front seats.
have you ever played with the idea of a round shaped boxes? I know they are difficult to make and waste more material, but I've always wondered on the sound of those enclosures that sit inside the Spare tire.
There's actually been quite a bit of research on the subject. It's too much to cover and UA-cam comments. But for a subwoofer the most important thing is the airspace, and putting the enclosure inside of the spare tire is going to limit your airspace. Removing the spare and putting the subwoofer in the spare tire well is an entirely different thing.
@@DIYAudioGuy I wonder how much difference would the space make on sound quality and loudness one vs the other. I currently have a Rockghost and Im very surprised with how well and loud it is on that small footprint. But they use a custom design with plastic and metal. I wonder how an MDF custom box stacks up.
I would love to see you get real basic, and use the measurements of the box that the speaker is packaged in. Yup show people like me just how easy it can be to build my own sub box. Just an idea for a video.
I drive a regular cab 81 f150 I've got 2 10s and a shallow 12. Love with setup but one day I plan to put shallow mount jl 13.5s. I thought about just building a single 10 or smaller not shallow 12 in a ported encloser. It'd be a neat experiment for that compact of a space.
I converted from a oldschool alpine vented 10" longthrow quite deep big rectangular box jammed between fron and rear seats floor behind cntr console to a jl 13.5 shallow mount with same box like in video sealed and pleasant surprise nice crip bass.. not mirror rattling like ported boxes dooo but i enjoy it and my 17 superduty looks more grownup inside..
Ok correction not as shallow an xtra 2in and behind my rear seats i have lots going wide just not deep..haha thats what she said...lol...so yeah my box 2ice as wide .5timestaller too and nice
Interesting to learn more about the analysis and what all goes into this stuff. The NVX N series with NVX duel sealed enclosure in 10" is one that I have sitting in my cart at SE while I continue to research and learn more. I don't understand much about the different specs like F3...
My only concern is why was your table saw blade so high up instead of a bit over 3/4? I almost lost a thumb to a table saw luckily i just lost sense of touch at the tip. Please safe and do some research on Table saw safety!
So how do you explain KEL KC62? No air but sound great. High quality, dual drivers and 1,000 watts combine. Air is over rated. It's the size of a lunch box and heavy.
Probably using a Linkiwitz transform. Which sounds fancy, but it is nothing more than turning the amp down and then boosting the lower frequencies. Basically using DSP to overcome bad box design.
Didn't Kicker or another company make preloaded factory slim boxes with the same type of back plate. Using this type of back plate and 3/4 wooden spacer ring would open up the ability to select from a lot more different subs.(possibly one you already own. Since the box volume is the same anyway. I'm gonna catch shit about bringing up Audiobahn but 20 yrs ago they had badass shallow sub. Needed a big volume box. But looked good inverted cause it was one piece cnc aluminum basket with a huge voice coil
Honestly, not sure if Kicker used one of those back plates. I don't recall seeing one when I took apart this box: ua-cam.com/video/-s78YDDwB0I/v-deo.html
ya I found this out the hard way I bought 4 kicker 12s compr shallow sub for a extended cab Chevy with the back seat still in it and ya you save space on the depth but if you want your boxes ported it takes up every bit of space 😂I'm talking every bit I thought when I went with shallow subs I was going to save space I only save in depth😂😅 for got about look at what the air space spec was I got lucky and the boxes only sticks up 3/4 of a inch above the back seat box and under the seat box is about a inch out under the seat but you can't tell by eye and I had to take out the seat put the boxes in then put the back seat back in after but all that work payed off 4 12 in ported boxes with all the interior and back seat still in it 2 subs behind 2 subs under the back seat and you can't even tell there's subs in the truck. intill I turn it on 😅👍✌️👌🎶💯🥂 ps I ended up taking up way more space than I thought and had to put the amps under the front seat not planned but worked out🤪
No, I built this box just to show a tiny box in the video. I did a build with a larger box with two 2" round ports ua-cam.com/video/NjolI-OEHE8/v-deo.htmlsi=JHSSsYgoXhGyNtO5. Aero port is another name for a flared port. If you are using a slim sub you probably do not have room for the flares.
I have an 8" sub with an fs of 34.5hz (Infinity Kappa 800w, previous model), and a recommended vented box volume of 1sq ft. I ordered a really nice prefab box tuned to 35hz, but realized it's only .65sq ft. What can I expect if I use this sub/box combo? On the manufacturer page they suggest much stiffer, higher excursion subs like ct sounds meso, skar vd/sdr, sundown, deaf bonce machete mf, etc...
Unfortunately most prefab boxes are a bit undersized. It will not be optimal, but it will still work. I find it odd that the enclosure manufacturer recommended brands. That sounds to me like marketing mumbo jumbo. The box does not have the slightest idea what brand subwoofer you are using.
@@DIYAudioGuy it's a gp audio truspec box. It was designed for a sundown SA, but they listed other subs which had similar specs. I believe it's a labyrinth style, as it's tuned really low for such a small box. After my first try with winisd, it seems like it will play pretty flat without much peak at the tuning frequency.
Tech question for you... I have a pair of 100w RMS mtx speakers that were brand new but sat in storage a few years. Im getting bad distortion on certain low notes at low volume. I think it cleans up at higher power, doesnt seem like its just being masked by loud volume. Is it possible that my amp Hi-Pass filter is the culprit? I think its in both speakers. Only thing I can imagine is them being bad out of the box. I have a pair of 25w rms pioneers on the same amp getting nearly the same power that sound fine, although their HPF is set higher.
@@DIYAudioGuy Dang. Yeah I have some gear swapping to do... Never had an issue like this and its hard to find info. Most was about guitar amps and too technical for me lol
That sub is perfect for mounting inside a wall, using the 3½ deep studs x 14" space x 7½ ft tall. Just router out a 14x14 backer plate, cut in half and stuffed in the hole to mount the sub.
@@DIYAudioGuy they actually make sub boxes designed specifically to mount in walls, generally made from fiberglass, but those are expensive, the only issue with a direct fit being it's power limited, too much internal pressure will blow the drywall though the screws 🌬️😂. But if you encased between and using the studs before the drywall went up, you could get a really well planned box tune for that sub, and in a living room with limited floor space a movie would feel/sound awesome. There's @ 2.6cu.ft in most 8' walls between studs, so there's room to add wood front/back and sealed, and still have a large overall box.
@DIYAudioGuy Respectfully. This is where I don't need measurements and algorithms to tell me what I'm hearing. Sometimes you can get too lost in all that. It works. It's noticeable. Not only I can feel the difference, so can the peoples boxes I have improved throughout the years.
@@DIYAudioGuy not much at all. Ive been really contemplating building a wedge with down firing 6.5s or 8s if i can squeeze them in. I dont want to face a sub towards seat, i always have people in my backseat. But they do sell prefab boxes which always end up rubbing the seat
@DIY Audio Guy the reason I ask is in the rear deck of my car there's a small cut out where a 6.5 would fit perfectly and the 6x9s are infinite baffle and they have good low bass
Oh I see they have learned many lessons with the leads coming from the terminals. I have had several break off under high excursion. Not the shallow version though. Especially when the glue overheats and the spider, which the leads are woven to, separates from the basket. I've been trying to follow nvx for a little while now, I believe I'm seeing what I would call Rapid iterations. I'm seeing updates and new versions popping up quite frequently on the nbx website. These shallow subwoofers being one of the newest. I'm sorry if my comments always come off as negative. They are simply observations that I am expressing. I am actually quite fond of nvx. My daily driver currently has nvx 6 1/2 component, 6x9 component, and 3 1/2 inch coaxials topped off with two nsw 104 mounted inverted and boot removed from the magnet for cooling purposes only, (these things really do not like heat) on 460 RMS in a 1.5 cubic foot sealed enclosure. Everybody constantly asks me what kind of system do I have? JL audio? Alpine? One guy actually asked me if I had a complete focal system. When I respond with nvx, generally the next question is, who's nvx? I generally begin my introduction of nvx to these people by turning the dial clockwise.
I agree, it is good stuff. The only failure I have encountered is the glue melting allowing the spider to separate from the basket which as you know, if this goes unnoticed for long, leads to the complete destruction of the speaker. Out of six nsw10s that have circulated through my daily driver, three of them had the adhesive fail which led to catastrophic destruction. However, the most recent two I have purchased, I reinforced the glue myself. These have not experienced any failures, and I am able to drive them as hard as my little amp will go. They get warm, I wouldn't mind seeing the next generation of N series subwoofers having not only a pole vent, but also basket vents between The Spider and the magnet. I do believe this would conquer the Heat problem. I contemplated drilling some holes in the basket myself to help cool the coil, but then I decided not to just in case. But I am definitely a fan of nvx. The price to Performance ratio is unmatched in the industry. While I was purchasing these six N series subwoofers, they were running a sale where you could purchase two for $89.99. I hopped right on this and purchased three sets. I like your nvx content as well. Always looking for new information on their products.
@ Night Tow..u do have JL thou..just look at this videos sub pause or screenshot and look up JL shallow sub...than let me know what you think... Wouldnt be shocked about common china gimmick manufacturing for JL and manufacturing 2ice asmany just some no badge than ship next door happen to be a sister company of this and they happen to just have some nvx or whatever badges to fit .. so many things they. Manufacturing the same way ive seen it personally when I was buying direct from them and built a relationship the great!!!! Deals came out we just had to walk next door..inside it was a mirror image in every way couldnt tell if you were blindfolded going in that its not 1st building making brand name for usa.. only 1% difference was the logo stickers different and the cardboard packaging
@@DIYAudioGuy well, for one, JL offers a D8 (dual 8 ohm) version which would better serve my amplifier plans. I could settle for a 4 ohm SVC but I don’t see that getting released by NVX before I get to that stage of the install.
@@DIYAudioGuy ok thanks. I'll just have to diy it then. I'm trying to put two RF P3D4-12s in the back of a single cab GMC Sierra.the boxes online all sit at 6 1/2 Rockfords site says these need 6 3/4 just for mount depth and I need to slope these. It's a tough fit. Seeing your video hollowing out the back to alleviate space for the magnet is a clutch idea.
If you need a sub which will fit in this small space, the best option is a underseat sub because it's easy to install and has the amp built into it and will barely take any space
@DIY Audio Guy but smaller subwoofers can take more power now and class d amps can push more power now so an 8 inch 400 watt skar should be enough power to run infinite baffle and take up less space than any box 📦 .Maybe even sound better to
@@Durkhead Infinite baffle subs have no air spring behind them to help with cone control. That means they cannot handle as much power. The solution is to use the biggest driver possible that way you have a ton of cone area.
72-78* is a good range for matching car seats. I haven’t had very good results with shallow subs - may as well just go with 6.5” woofers to get good sound with a small enclosure.
I think people get confused about low profile subs. Just because they smaller doesn't mean they are for a smaller box. They still need the recommended volume but when you are working with a shallow space, like building a box for inside a wall or one that fits under your bed or couch, these shallow drivers definitely come in handy
I always assumed the thins are meant to be in fiberglass/ stelth boxes made to fit a specific spot or thin but wide boxes taking up the entire under/ behind area.
Mine is a Rockford fostage shallow mounted subwoofer .... For getting good bass you shoud make it open type' then u will get what u want and much bigger is ur box much quality sound
Get your NVX subwoofer here: bit.ly/3ASF0CY Use the code diyaudio10 for a discount!
I built a box for a DD shallow 12 it's 4.5" deep 1.48 cubes tuned to 30hz it replaces the floor cover for the back of my Kia and you still have access to the spare tire
You brought up a good point you can make a really small box but most thin subs still require almost the same amount of air space as a full size sub you save on depth size but you end up with a wider and taller box to get the air space 🙈🎶👌✌️👍💯🥂
Exactly!
Which is great for truck boxes, probably not great for anything less.
NOT !!!!
That's the compromise with trucks/ute's. You have to take a loss there in performance to get the sub you want.
Hello I have a 2020 grand Cherokee under the driver seat there is a cubby area that’s approx 14” long 10” wide and the cubby itself approx 10 “ to 12” deep with a lid that covers it .
My idea is to put an 8” JL 8w3 in the lid mounted to the lid with a 1” plastic spacer ring on the top and 4 1” mdf rings to go into the inside of the cubby with the sub .
My question is with a small airspace like that am I better off leaving it sealed or trying to add a small hole to have an air port to let some of the air out ?
I know for large enclosures you typically want porting but with limited air space idk which way would be better . Thoughts ? Thanks .
Btw I am trying to keep all factory looking so any visible enclosures are a no go at the moment . Thanks .
That is a great question, join us on our next live show and we will try to give a detailed answer, we are about to start right now! ua-cam.com/users/livekHI6P5K7W-k
Why not try show us how it sound? Lot people doesn't care about the graph, they care about the sound itself. Maybe next time try the actual sound test
ua-cam.com/video/NjolI-OEHE8/v-deo.html
Man this video couldn't be timed any better. I was talking with a friend today about building a box for his Tacoma to go behind his seat. This is pretty much the exact same situation he is running into. He keeps thinking big...big...big! I keep telling him it takes space to make bass also.
👍
Did you drop a video today man? I've been cutting the grass this afternoon and I haven't had a chance to look.
Yep, wife had a craft show this weekend and I managed to get her set up, work on the demo rig and get her tore down and packed up. Thank God I'm getting a back injection tomorrow. Lol
I have KIA picanto 2013, where to put it and how big the box should be pls?
Planning on 8' or 10' subs.
Looks like you built a perfect-sized enclosure for measuring the Vas of 12" drivers via the delta-compliance method 🙂.
😁
I think this form-factor is better suited for an active+passive radiators setup, something similar to what Hertz used to do with the EBX F25.5.
Either that or DSP.
Great timing on this video I never gave shallow subs a second thought until the last few weeks I am buying a vehicle with a factory subwoofer installed and been considering my options to utilize the same space. Glad you have confirmed that Hoffman's law still applies here :)
It's a good sub, it just needs the right box.
What’s your recommendation for a sub for a sealed box?
I'm curious (concerning small box subs) why manufacturers of the thin subs don't incorporate tapped holes in the bottom plate of the motor structure (the very bottom of the sub) to screw bolts into from the backside of the box/cabinet/enclosure. Its seems to be a very logical way to stiffen the box and the sub within the box while at the same time making the box as thin width-wise as possible. Obviously, this would only work with subs that don't have a rear vented pole piece, but there are plenty of folks making subs without rear vents.
NVX also uses a metal plate so you can mount the sub deeper into the cabinet... this could also be incorporated in such a way that you could bolt the plate to the enclosure and then bolt the sub to the plate. This would allow the thinnest structurally strongest enclosure.
Do you see any reason why this wouldn't work well for the people who would build their enclosure that way?
I have a 78 Chevy C20 and I'm looking for a good box and I don't know what size speakers to use I was kinda interested in maybe some 8's or 10's
i have the 2 JL audio 10TW3 , in truck style boxes vented and they really surprised me on the sound coming out of them. i have a 2010 element and i still have plenty of trunk space and i can easily remove the boxes if i need more space.
Hi looking to put this in a Pontiac fiero. Crutchfield says the space behind the seat. 18”w 24” 4” what do you think. I was originally thinking about the JL audio shallow
Does the shape of your air space inside the box matter? Like with that shallow box you built, could it simply be built wider and keep the depth to gain the space you need?
Hi can you mke an enclosure that fits the bronco , to replace the oem sub enclosure and be able to add mor bass, and make it look oem fit?
In your follow-up video, it would be interesting to attach your DATS to this one and just check what the frequency response is on it anyway.
That is a good idea!
I had 2 Polk Audio MM1540DVC shallow mounts in a 2001 F150 SuperCrew.
Great review. That NVX looks like the Massive Audio slim 10”
Cool!
I see you hit that box with the 45° chamfer. Probably my favorite edge profile 👍
Sometimes I do a round over, sometimes a chamfer.
Hey! Great video! I was wondering were I can get an aluminum plate just like the one is provided with the NVX sub? To use it with a different brand shallow sub. I was looking at NVX webpage to see if I could get a "replacement" but there's no options. Thank you in advanced, great content!
No idea. It would probably be easy to make one.
I have a pair of pioneer TS-ZL10S, I plan to run them in a .5 cuft sealed box each. I also have 3 Soundstream Stealth-13 subs that I never even installed.
💪
I "dry-fit" all of my speaker/subwoofer projects by drawing them to scale in Microsoft Visio. You can see examples of the drawings I make at the end of my subwoofer videos.
I have never used Microsoft Visio!
@@DIYAudioGuy
I've been using Visio for 16 years now, for all kinds of projects. For example, I use it to design my folded horn subwoofers (along with Hornresp). I use it to plan my vegetable garden layout every year. I have over 200 Visio project files. Can't imagine being without it. It's much easier to use than any CAD program I've tried.
i use Blender, always nice to have something that makes things physical if you can say that.
and i get all my measurement that way also, a cut list.
I'm currently using the 2011 pioneer shallow mount 12" subs in my regular cab silverado. I was a bit sceptical about how much bass they would put out but they surprised me. Pioneer recommends .5-1.0 cu.ft. I originally had them in a really small prefab enclosure which gave them .55 each and they weren't half bad but I could tell they were being under utilized so I found a prefab box that would fit my truck that gave them .85cu.ft. each and boy did they open up. They put out bass I never thought was possible with a shallow sub. I later on purchased a 3rd one so I could cram 3 behind my seat but personally don't see the point.
Yep, got to have the right airspace to get good sound.
I just built a 1.4 cubic foot box tuned to 30 hz for a couple Pioneer D series shallow 10's. They sound good and have pretty good response down to 30 hz like I anticipated. I may end up running a single larger sub with more xmax with a Skar RP 1200 amp I just picked up. Currently running the Pionneers with an 8701 800 watt Pioneer digital amp.
I have an Infinity 10” shallow sub. Was gonna replace the rear deck sub. Too big, so what box building software are you using?
ua-cam.com/video/yZNeYBYGRKk/v-deo.html
That backplate is a pretty cool accessory
That is what I thought. I see a lot of builds where the builder makes one out of wood. But it sticks out from the back of the box 3/4".
Belt sander and circular saw work well for me , especially with MDF a angle grinder works well for accommodating those pesky magnets 👍🏻
Have you tried the chainsaw blade on an angle grinder? It looks like a death machine.
Great tip man. Thanks.
If you use focal subs some of them only need 0.34 cubic feet
Why not just cut a second front baffle and sandwich the two for more clearance?
I have done that before. Problem is that it makes the box thicker which defats the purpose of a shallow mount sub.
Ok I looked at the 2 different pre fab boxes that you suggested a couple of days ago. The 1 that I like is out of stock. I have all if the materials to build my own and a full wood shop including a CNC. I'm putting these two Kicker Comp cx 10s in under the bunk of my semi truck. The foot print area is 22" x 20" and 13" tall. I'll have 1200 watts from my amp. Can you suggest a set of plans for these? I play mostly rock jazz and funk.
Thank you in advance for any help.
Awesome! I don't have any plans like that handy and I am taking a break form custom plans (busy season at the day job). But you have 3.3 gross cubic ft, do you should have plenty of room to build something. I suggest that you call kicker tech support, they will do it for free over the phone.
@@DIYAudioGuy you are truly awesome man. Thanks for all that you do.
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i hope there is going to be some dsp testing on this subwoofer build, i think you can add large amounts of dsp in the form of parametric eq with no ill effects. but would like to see others try it out.
When I got my Scion xB I didn't want to give up any cargo space nor did I want to give up my spare, so I opted for small enclosure optimized Rockford Fosgate 8" to fit under the front seats. Using Sketchup I was able to make multiple designs before wood touched saw. I tried for a .707 response which meant I had to find created ways to gain cubic inches. In the end, it was made from 1/2" Baltic Birch, with the sub frame flush with the front of the box face. By mounting the spkr to a ring that was attached to the interior side of the box face, I was able to gain a few more cubic inches of volume.
Here a digital angle finder was used to find the cut angle, but an easier way is to use a sliding bevel gauge. A sliding bevel gauge will get the exact angle and lets you set your saw blade up to that exact angle. No math!
Most thin subs are actually a FS around 45hz. Really a good relief for the 40-80 hz to fill the shortcomings of 6.5 midbass. Gotta have the big box to hit the low bass. They are great under seat or a front sub. I have a couple 8’s as front subs in a super small box. Still have to have the bigger 12’s in the trunk!!
Excellent video! A great point to make though, in situations where space is super limited, it is worth considering smaller subwoofers! Typically, your normal 6.5" or 8" subwoofer only has a mounting depth of 3-4", requires 0.25-0.5 of air space per driver, and might even sound better than the restricted shallow 10" or 12" you'd try to squeeze back behind the seat of a truck. It's all a matter of picking the right subwoofer for the right application.
Good point!
That's probably the route I'm probably going with my Yaris hatchback. The trunk is already small and I use it everyday to carry lots of stuff so the best spot for a sub box is below the front seats.
have you ever played with the idea of a round shaped boxes? I know they are difficult to make and waste more material, but I've always wondered on the sound of those enclosures that sit inside the Spare tire.
There's actually been quite a bit of research on the subject. It's too much to cover and UA-cam comments.
But for a subwoofer the most important thing is the airspace, and putting the enclosure inside of the spare tire is going to limit your airspace. Removing the spare and putting the subwoofer in the spare tire well is an entirely different thing.
@@DIYAudioGuy I wonder how much difference would the space make on sound quality and loudness one vs the other.
I currently have a Rockghost and Im very surprised with how well and loud it is on that small footprint. But they use a custom design with plastic and metal. I wonder how an MDF custom box stacks up.
"... clearance on the back..." .. ... .... =/
... And that clearance should be how much again? :-| Lol...
I would love to see you get real basic, and use the measurements of the box that the speaker is packaged in. Yup show people like me just how easy it can be to build my own sub box. Just an idea for a video.
I drive a regular cab 81 f150 I've got 2 10s and a shallow 12. Love with setup but one day I plan to put shallow mount jl 13.5s. I thought about just building a single 10 or smaller not shallow 12 in a ported encloser. It'd be a neat experiment for that compact of a space.
I converted from a oldschool alpine vented 10" longthrow quite deep big rectangular box jammed between fron and rear seats floor behind cntr console to a jl 13.5 shallow mount with same box like in video sealed and pleasant surprise nice crip bass.. not mirror rattling like ported boxes dooo but i enjoy it and my 17 superduty looks more grownup inside..
Ok correction not as shallow an xtra 2in and behind my rear seats i have lots going wide just not deep..haha thats what she said...lol...so yeah my box 2ice as wide .5timestaller too and nice
Interesting to learn more about the analysis and what all goes into this stuff. The NVX N series with NVX duel sealed enclosure in 10" is one that I have sitting in my cart at SE while I continue to research and learn more. I don't understand much about the different specs like F3...
F3 is the three db down point.
Good stuff as always! May I ask what kind of table saw?
It's a sawstop.
My only concern is why was your table saw blade so high up instead of a bit over 3/4?
I almost lost a thumb to a table saw luckily i just lost sense of touch at the tip. Please safe and do some research on Table saw safety!
These are meant for behind the seat of and single cab truck lol
Yes.
I need a new table saw
Metric pls
So how do you explain KEL KC62? No air but sound great. High quality, dual drivers and 1,000 watts combine. Air is over rated. It's the size of a lunch box and heavy.
Probably using a Linkiwitz transform. Which sounds fancy, but it is nothing more than turning the amp down and then boosting the lower frequencies. Basically using DSP to overcome bad box design.
Didn't Kicker or another company make preloaded factory slim boxes with the same type of back plate. Using this type of back plate and 3/4 wooden spacer ring would open up the ability to select from a lot more different subs.(possibly one you already own. Since the box volume is the same anyway. I'm gonna catch shit about bringing up Audiobahn but 20 yrs ago they had badass shallow sub. Needed a big volume box. But looked good inverted cause it was one piece cnc aluminum basket with a huge voice coil
Honestly, not sure if Kicker used one of those back plates. I don't recall seeing one when I took apart this box: ua-cam.com/video/-s78YDDwB0I/v-deo.html
Hi, do you think you can make me a box for a DC-M3 6? It's a small 6 incher. It's for a pickup truck.
Unfortuanatly I don't build boxes for people -- I just don't have time. Give MBEnclosures a shout.
Box to small, add bit more power?
That is all you can do.
ya I found this out the hard way I bought 4 kicker 12s compr shallow sub for a extended cab Chevy with the back seat still in it and ya you save space on the depth but if you want your boxes ported it takes up every bit of space 😂I'm talking every bit I thought when I went with shallow subs I was going to save space I only save in depth😂😅 for got about look at what the air space spec was I got lucky and the boxes only sticks up 3/4 of a inch above the back seat box and under the seat box is about a inch out under the seat but you can't tell by eye and I had to take out the seat put the boxes in then put the back seat back in after but all that work payed off 4 12 in ported boxes with all the interior and back seat still in it 2 subs behind 2 subs under the back seat and you can't even tell there's subs in the truck. intill I turn it on 😅👍✌️👌🎶💯🥂 ps I ended up taking up way more space than I thought and had to put the amps under the front seat not planned but worked out🤪
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Could you add a 2” aero port on this and get more boomy bass? Or would it sound horrible? Thanks.
No, I built this box just to show a tiny box in the video. I did a build with a larger box with two 2" round ports ua-cam.com/video/NjolI-OEHE8/v-deo.htmlsi=JHSSsYgoXhGyNtO5. Aero port is another name for a flared port. If you are using a slim sub you probably do not have room for the flares.
10" pvc ring, 1/4" thick.
I have an 8" sub with an fs of 34.5hz (Infinity Kappa 800w, previous model), and a recommended vented box volume of 1sq ft. I ordered a really nice prefab box tuned to 35hz, but realized it's only .65sq ft. What can I expect if I use this sub/box combo?
On the manufacturer page they suggest much stiffer, higher excursion subs like ct sounds meso, skar vd/sdr, sundown, deaf bonce machete mf, etc...
Unfortunately most prefab boxes are a bit undersized. It will not be optimal, but it will still work.
I find it odd that the enclosure manufacturer recommended brands. That sounds to me like marketing mumbo jumbo. The box does not have the slightest idea what brand subwoofer you are using.
@@DIYAudioGuy it's a gp audio truspec box. It was designed for a sundown SA, but they listed other subs which had similar specs.
I believe it's a labyrinth style, as it's tuned really low for such a small box. After my first try with winisd, it seems like it will play pretty flat without much peak at the tuning frequency.
How about an in wall subwoofer that can fit in 16" centres for home cinema.
Walls are 8ft tall so you can make the box huge -- depth may be an issue depending on the material used to frame the wall.
What nail gun and nail size are you using, if you don't mind me Asking?
amzn.to/3LFvist
That enclosure is roughly .16 cu.ft internal
Right! Far too small for a 10.
Tech question for you...
I have a pair of 100w RMS mtx speakers that were brand new but sat in storage a few years. Im getting bad distortion on certain low notes at low volume. I think it cleans up at higher power, doesnt seem like its just being masked by loud volume.
Is it possible that my amp Hi-Pass filter is the culprit? I think its in both speakers. Only thing I can imagine is them being bad out of the box.
I have a pair of 25w rms pioneers on the same amp getting nearly the same power that sound fine, although their HPF is set higher.
I have no idea. You could try them with a different amp.
@@DIYAudioGuy Dang. Yeah I have some gear swapping to do... Never had an issue like this and its hard to find info. Most was about guitar amps and too technical for me lol
sure the sub isn't defective?
...so how does it sounds like??? Is it any good ?
Nothing in a box that size is going to sound good. This one sounds great: ua-cam.com/video/NjolI-OEHE8/v-deo.html
*Subwoofer displacement has entered the chat*
Cone area is king.
Thin???????
That sub is perfect for mounting inside a wall, using the 3½ deep studs x 14" space x 7½ ft tall. Just router out a 14x14 backer plate, cut in half and stuffed in the hole to mount the sub.
That would be cool!
@@DIYAudioGuy they actually make sub boxes designed specifically to mount in walls, generally made from fiberglass, but those are expensive, the only issue with a direct fit being it's power limited, too much internal pressure will blow the drywall though the screws 🌬️😂. But if you encased between and using the studs before the drywall went up, you could get a really well planned box tune for that sub, and in a living room with limited floor space a movie would feel/sound awesome. There's @ 2.6cu.ft in most 8' walls between studs, so there's room to add wood front/back and sealed, and still have a large overall box.
What's the model on the driver next to the thin woofer at the 8:31 mark
bit.ly/3CAWBSi
Throw a little backing material in there and you'll make it sound even better.
ua-cam.com/video/ZQ0WvSKfDVY/v-deo.html
@DIYAudioGuy Respectfully. This is where I don't need measurements and algorithms to tell me what I'm hearing. Sometimes you can get too lost in all that. It works. It's noticeable. Not only I can feel the difference, so can the peoples boxes I have improved throughout the years.
Have you ever made a behind seat box for 2005 silverado 1500 crew cab? I think its the hardest one to do
I have not. How much space is back there?
@@DIYAudioGuy not much at all. Ive been really contemplating building a wedge with down firing 6.5s or 8s if i can squeeze them in. I dont want to face a sub towards seat, i always have people in my backseat. But they do sell prefab boxes which always end up rubbing the seat
.159cuft, yep, thats small.
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Would you be willing to design an enclosure tuned at 35hz out of a harley saddle bag??
I would think the size of the saddle bag could do the 35hz but it would not do the spl to be louder than a bike.
Not really sure how to make those work.
Can you do an infinite baffle with a small subwoofer like a 6.5 skar?
Yes, but you will not get a good result. You need a lot of cone area to make infinite baffle work.
@DIY Audio Guy the reason I ask is in the rear deck of my car there's a small cut out where a 6.5 would fit perfectly and the 6x9s are infinite baffle and they have good low bass
lol you forgot to demo the sub in the small box.
Incorrect. I deliberately did not do that. There's absolutely no need to.
I was thinking more a "that's what she said" comment, but....
I was wondering how long it would take before we got one of those.
@@DIYAudioGuy - you can't blame me for pointing out the obvious. I blame you for the setup. lol
Oh I see they have learned many lessons with the leads coming from the terminals. I have had several break off under high excursion. Not the shallow version though. Especially when the glue overheats and the spider, which the leads are woven to, separates from the basket. I've been trying to follow nvx for a little while now, I believe I'm seeing what I would call Rapid iterations. I'm seeing updates and new versions popping up quite frequently on the nbx website. These shallow subwoofers being one of the newest. I'm sorry if my comments always come off as negative. They are simply observations that I am expressing. I am actually quite fond of nvx. My daily driver currently has nvx 6 1/2 component, 6x9 component, and 3 1/2 inch coaxials topped off with two nsw 104 mounted inverted and boot removed from the magnet for cooling purposes only, (these things really do not like heat) on 460 RMS in a 1.5 cubic foot sealed enclosure. Everybody constantly asks me what kind of system do I have? JL audio? Alpine? One guy actually asked me if I had a complete focal system. When I respond with nvx, generally the next question is, who's nvx? I generally begin my introduction of nvx to these people by turning the dial clockwise.
They have been sending me gear to try out and it has been good stuff. Looking forward to getting my hands on some of the bigger subwoofers!
I agree, it is good stuff. The only failure I have encountered is the glue melting allowing the spider to separate from the basket which as you know, if this goes unnoticed for long, leads to the complete destruction of the speaker. Out of six nsw10s that have circulated through my daily driver, three of them had the adhesive fail which led to catastrophic destruction. However, the most recent two I have purchased, I reinforced the glue myself. These have not experienced any failures, and I am able to drive them as hard as my little amp will go. They get warm, I wouldn't mind seeing the next generation of N series subwoofers having not only a pole vent, but also basket vents between The Spider and the magnet. I do believe this would conquer the Heat problem. I contemplated drilling some holes in the basket myself to help cool the coil, but then I decided not to just in case. But I am definitely a fan of nvx. The price to Performance ratio is unmatched in the industry. While I was purchasing these six N series subwoofers, they were running a sale where you could purchase two for $89.99. I hopped right on this and purchased three sets.
I like your nvx content as well. Always looking for new information on their products.
@ Night Tow..u do have JL thou..just look at this videos sub pause or screenshot and look up JL shallow sub...than let me know what you think... Wouldnt be shocked about common china gimmick manufacturing for JL and manufacturing 2ice asmany just some no badge than ship next door happen to be a sister company of this and they happen to just have some nvx or whatever badges to fit .. so many things they. Manufacturing the same way ive seen it personally when I was buying direct from them and built a relationship the great!!!! Deals came out we just had to walk next door..inside it was a mirror image in every way couldnt tell if you were blindfolded going in that its not 1st building making brand name for usa.. only 1% difference was the logo stickers different and the cardboard packaging
Looks like they knocked off plenty of JL audio technology
So why use JL when this is 1/4th the price?
@@DIYAudioGuy well, for one, JL offers a D8 (dual 8 ohm) version which would better serve my amplifier plans. I could settle for a 4 ohm SVC but I don’t see that getting released by NVX before I get to that stage of the install.
But do it bump doh?
Stay tuned, we're going to find out!
Where do I purchase a backplate like that?
I have never seen one for sale by itself.
@@DIYAudioGuy ok thanks. I'll just have to diy it then. I'm trying to put two RF P3D4-12s in the back of a single cab GMC Sierra.the boxes online all sit at 6 1/2
Rockfords site says these need 6 3/4 just for mount depth and I need to slope these. It's a tough fit. Seeing your video hollowing out the back to alleviate space for the magnet is a clutch idea.
howd it sound?
Next video! Stay tuned!
I seen that.... 😉 lol
You could add a "that's what she said" about once every 30 seconds in this video.
@@DIYAudioGuy in talking the shift in position while cutting on the table saw lol. Just a nit picky guy I am
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If you need a sub which will fit in this small space, the best option is a underseat sub because it's easy to install and has the amp built into it and will barely take any space
I'm not a fan. Small subwoofer, small enclosure, small amplifier, small bass.
@DIY Audio Guy what about a small woofer with Infinite baffle? Using the trunk as the inclosure
@@Durkhead Infinite baffle typically requires huge subwoofers.
@DIY Audio Guy but smaller subwoofers can take more power now and class d amps can push more power now so an 8 inch 400 watt skar should be enough power to run infinite baffle and take up less space than any box 📦 .Maybe even sound better to
@@Durkhead Infinite baffle subs have no air spring behind them to help with cone control. That means they cannot handle as much power. The solution is to use the biggest driver possible that way you have a ton of cone area.
72-78* is a good range for matching car seats. I haven’t had very good results with shallow subs - may as well just go with 6.5” woofers to get good sound with a small enclosure.
Your channel is doing amazing. I can't wait for your next build!
Hey man! I am looking forward to your next one as well!
@@DIYAudioGuy I have one processing as we speak. 😀
I think people get confused about low profile subs. Just because they smaller doesn't mean they are for a smaller box. They still need the recommended volume but when you are working with a shallow space, like building a box for inside a wall or one that fits under your bed or couch, these shallow drivers definitely come in handy
Common mistakes installing a shallow mount sub... installing a shallow mount sub🤣
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use a passive radiator
I always assumed the thins are meant to be in fiberglass/ stelth boxes made to fit a specific spot or thin but wide boxes taking up the entire under/ behind area.
Yep.
Thanks for the info. Perhaps it would be easier to do some basic layout before cutting.
Definitely
Mine is a Rockford fostage shallow mounted subwoofer .... For getting good bass you shoud make it open type' then u will get what u want and much bigger is ur box much quality sound
By open do you mean ported?
@@DIYAudioGuy yes exactly my friend
man.... you know you did that on purpose to show off the product
That little back plate though, that is handy.
Interesting video yet again DIY , learnt alot watching this
Thank you!