Good video ! It amazes me how many people use shallow subwoofers when they don't need to. And think shallow means they can use a small box. You did good job pointing out that shallow subs still need air space . Shallow means shallow box not small box
Rather than using a shallow 10, I think a normal 8” sub would yield better results. While shallow subs have their place & convenience , they have their limitations from what few I have fooled with.
I think one thing to note about passive radiators is that there are many manufacturers, so you can totally design your own box with a PR for most subs, and they will still be smaller than what you can achieve with a normal air vent at the same box volume.
Got a f250 single cab so very little for what I want. The sealed box for my truck is .75 for 12's. Found some pioneer 12 shollow mount (4 ohm) on sell that would match the air space. 400 rms x2 cobalt amp 350 rms x2. Thought it would be temporary setup, but it sounds so good it's been about 2 years now and never changed it out. It's a perfect blend with the JBL in the doors.
I have a pair of shallow 12” Skars in my Grand Cherokee. I wanted to go full width between the rear wheel wells, no higher than the back of the seat and stay as shallow as I could to keep my storage space. The box volume is what ended up deciding the woofers, as with the width and height I needed a minimum depth to clear the woofer and the 12s worked out best. Ended up just a bit over 2cu/ft total sealed which is exactly what Skar recommends for them, pretty happy with the end result. They dig low but aren’t overwhelming, and to my ear really don’t hit the higher bass very hard. Would be interesting to see what they’d do ported but Skar doesn’t give recommendations for that and I’m just not good enough with winisd to get a definitive answer as to whether or not it’s worth it.
In my 2011 Toyota Tundra Crewmax I removed as much as I could from the back wall I did about what you're doing except 3/4 that the box was made of steel in my build. There are two Kenwood 12in low Pros, to Kenwood 9106D amplifiers running off a converter from the old subwoofer and this converter also has a bass knob. The JBL system is doing very well otherwise and it is one of the hardest hitting best sounding trucks. I knew this because I get complimented all the time LOL I'm not fishing for them though I'm looking for business. My Real Steel boxes are 3/4 made of steel various thicknesses and with special concert shapes to ensure that you get the best-of-the-best
As usual, a great, informative, detailed, video. Thanks again my friend. I'm not even looking into putting in shallow mount subs but obviously if I was, this is my first stop.
I don't do car stuff, (too old, can't bend, too tall, bad luck with it) but I do enjoy watching someone ELSE do it! I see there is more to consider when doing car audio sub builds often times. Angles, more attention to where to place components, etc. It sounds like the end result would be perfect for matching up with a stock system to give it just that needed 'oomph' in the lower octaves. Probably all most people really need.
Don’t forget room loading. Close to a rear wall, tuning for free space anechoic f3 is probably in fact tuning for f6. Years of speaker building have taught me to tune for 4 pi space in bass due to room mode reinforcement. Pro audio and larger venues need f3 but home hifi uses f6 because of room reinforcement. Baffle step within 4ft of rear wall means no room power response losses so baffle step compensation is not needed if design includes for this room lift. Every day is a learning day when you tune by measurement not box calculators which needs some practical reality built into assumptions and don’t forget to consider box QTS impacts on actual port tuning to more accurately account for virtual length of the tuned acoustic line which is approx 65% the calculated acoustic line (vent length) box calculators provide unless they account for box Q values.
I have a single cab F250. There is a Punch P3s behind the seat. I have been on a conquest for hard hitting bass in my truck without major modification to my seats, cab, and bed
@@DIYAudioGuy Yeah, that’s my bottleneck. I was looking at the new kicker CompRT, and viewing your channel for box build ideas. I am wondering if 4-6.5’s would be a contender under the bench seat. I dig your videos, and an now a subscriber. I am sure I will find a plethora of knowledge here
Ola saludos desde Colombia ese refuerzo intermedio evita que el subwoofer use bien el volumen de la caja ya que es como una pared con un orificio casi más chico que los mismo Port entonces limita el movimiento de aire en la caja tendrías que usarla sin ese refuerzo sonaría mucho mejor
Awesome video, I am trying to build something simular for 96 hilux dual cab. However, I want to add a pair of 6 x 9's and amp racking to the enclosure, any tips?
nice im going to build one simular for a b2200 single cab 🤔 ive been thinking it would be cool to build the ports externaly into the bottom of the center consol ya know so i shake the heck outof whatever is in my cup holders lol
I have 2 12” Kenwood shallow mount subs in custom sealed enclosure I made for my ‘99 Ford Ranger standard cab truck. It’s been a while so I can’t remember the exact specs (about .75cuft each), but I’ve always thought they’ve sounded great! And can rattle your bones if you crank them up.
There's no Harding fast rule, you just need a big enough Port opening to prevent port noise. In this case I used two 2-in ports because I just happen to have 2 inch PVC pipe laying around and a single 2 2 inch Port would not be big enough.
Using thin plywood and regular bracing battens can help claw back some box volume vs external volume. Using 3/4" mdf is adding 1.5" on each side, making your box less compact than it needs to be. It's also quite flexible and heavy for its thickness. A sheet of 3/8" or even 1/4" baltic birch and battens every 4" or so connecting the sides will give you a rigid enclosure that's smaller and lighter. The ultimate low bulk bracing would be L-aluminium. You will need extra reinforcement by the speaker. Of course it will take longer to build a box like this but I'm a light weight fanatic.
Have you ever crunched the numbers to see just how much space you would gain by using smaller material, versus how much space the extra bracing would take up? There's always a trade-off.
@@DIYAudioGuy the trade off in bracing is actually time taken, for you can use relatively thin pieces - kebab sticks almost, as end to end (compression and tension) rigidity is much greater than transverse rigidity. If you don't have a fascination for performance that defies weight and size, it might not be worth it. Wooden strips from a hardware store work surprisingly well but are climbing in prices a lot. Curved surfaces are also a lot more rigid, although they might not pack well into a certain space, and do need to be made out of a special flexible plywood - with a thin centre grain for flexibility in that direction, and thick outer grains for rigidity in the other direction. I made some bookshelf speakers and the sides of the box were 1/8 of an inch birch plywood - no joke! Okay the front and back, top and bottom were 1/2" offcuts, but the sides didn't even ring when I rapped them with my knuckles after the battens had been glued on and a cross batten for good measure. Actually I can't even remember if I added a cross batten as the box was only about 7" deep. I have a subwoofer box built of 3/8" plywood for a 12 and the external dimensions are 18" x 18" x 22". It's a high efficiency PA 12" so needs a bigger box than a car audio driver. The ports are 45 degree triangles in each corner. There is a ring shaped baffle brace and a couple of strips on the back of the box. The other box is 1/2" ply with similar bracing pattern except no recessed baffle and a cross of two pieces on the back wall. The weight of each box with neo driver is about 35 lbs. Of course, MDF does need to be thicker for the same rigidity and doesn't take damp nearly as well, or screws into end grain, or even glue into end grain, which is why I prefer to work with plywood for everything except neatness of finish. Also, plywood offcuts are better for bracing than MDF is. I love the smooth surface of MDF for painting without it looking like plywood grain underneath. There is a lot of poor quality plywood around though in UK, and it's not even that cheap in price.
I just got a 80's model c10 truck and juat purchased 2 shallow mount Diablo subs. Can i get a decent sound with them in the same box? Will i need to split the box internally, or can i wire them a specific way??
Holy smokes you’re knowledgeable! I’m considering buying 2 small subs in a prefab box (8” or 10”) for my 87 standard cab Toyota truck and there are many options to choose from out there with inconsistent reviews. I’m very tall and not brand loyal. In your opinion (in terms of perfect tuning/quality) who provides the best product? Rockford Fosgate, Alpine, JL Audio, Kicker, etc. Local audio installers are quoting me $1,000 to build/install a custom fiberglass enclosure (without the speakers) which exceeds my budget. Thanks for your time and advice!
Yea, that's why I got into DIY. This is the best drop in solution, squeeze in a pair of the 12s if the will fit. ua-cam.com/video/-s78YDDwB0I/v-deo.html
@@DIYAudioGuyThank you for taking the time to respond. I was looking at that box. Just stumbled across your channel today so I’ve subscribed and I would like to contribute also.
Great video as usual I appreciate all the info you put out for all the people still learning. Could you do a video on how to figure out the subwoofer displacement when neither the website or information come in the box.
Do you have a video of doing a 12 inch shallow mount sub box with a passive radiator instead of ports?? I would be interested to see if you like that better than using ports. Thanks!!
Question. I'm starting to build a box for the back of my crew cab. I came up with 1.3. C F. Using a series 1. Kicker. 10. I've had it forever Don't know if I want to port it. But if I did. I can't remember what port length it would need I been out of car audio since the 90s.
I've built the manual box for an Audison APS8R sub and it sounds not as good as it should, and now I'm building another enclosure, with almost 50% more volume and a much bigger port to get more low end extension and stop port noise
Maybe i missed something but it looked like you left the the brace fpr the ports solid. Won't that dramatically change the characteristics of the enclosure?
Where do I find the Gross Airspace Excel Spreadsheet? I'm still looking at my pickup and I'm thinking thin with a shallow mount up against the back wall and this video here is a good start.
What is the better option two small subs or one larger? How much speaker and how much box do I need if I'm not trying to shake the wall down? I want to make a speaker system for my car, it's an older SUV and there's plenty of space but... I use it for camping and I'm frequently driving on very rough and dusty terrain. Also I fold the rear forward and sleep in the back of it, so all the extra space where a well designed ported box is unavailable. There are two places I am thinking of for the sub: under the two front seats (12" x 10" x 6") or along the rear passenger wall, think old small truck bed, it would shape around the rear wheel arch like the letter P rotated clockwise 90 degrees. Any way, my real question is power out put. I have a car that has a very good factory sound system and all it has are two 8" subs mounted under the rear window in the trunk. This sound system sounds so good and has more bass than I would even need. What is the better option two small subs or one larger? How much speaker and how much box do I need?
Great content, helpful information. I took a stab at trying the new AB basshawk shallow 12. VERY impressive, first shallow to do so for me. And that test was sealed about 1.2.
I attempted to enter the driver data for the NVX SMW10D4 into WinISD, but the frequency curve does not look like the curve shown in the video. Has anyone created a WinISD .wdr file for this driver? Also, I could use some guidance creating the graph settings in WinISD to match those shown in this video. Thanks
12:07 WinISD routinely overestimates port length. need to reduce the length to about 80% of what WinISD suggests to get the correct port length for 34 hz. if you still have the box calc saved in WinISD you can change the tuning to 31.3 hz and see what it adjusts the port length to x 0.8 vs the 13.25" you made.
I've noticed that and I started compensating whenever I build my boxes. I get the same problem when I use the formula for port length as well. I find it if I want a 34 Hertz enclosure that if I design it for 36 Hertz I tend to hit 34 pretty reliably.
You can just do that math by hand, I always do it in a spreadsheet just because I do this a lot and it's easier to set up the formulas in the spreadsheet and plug in numbers as needed.
Hey man. I have a Subaru OEM under seat Subwoofer by Panasonic. Is there any way I can get more out of it? Maybe adding a port or upgrading the speaker in it
Question got a Nissan frontier 2015 crew cab. Has no room behind seat and only box made is sealed for under rear seat. It’s L shaped. I want to build a ported L shaped box that can be wider or stick out from seat bottom a few inches. And upfiring. For 2 10s. But want it to sound good. Have 2 shallow mount skars I know skars aren’t great but it’s in my sons truck. Any options any input?
How come you got your highest SPL nearly 20Hz above the tuning frequency? I’m still trying to understand why you set the tuning frequency so low when there is little music with consistent 30Hz tones. Loved the video though!
What woul You suggest ? I have aVW bus and i want to build a as good subwoofer as possible, but i have only room 100 cm x 35 cm x 17cm, i have av amp. of 630w stable to 1 Ohm ? Thank you
That should give you enough airspace for a single 10. You will probably want to use a passive radiator in order to make the most out of the available space.
Hi great video. Is there anyway to get two 12 behind the seat of a standard cab Chevy 1995 truck without losing legroom. I am looking for that hard bass sound.
That is what it is made for. Just keep in mind that small subs in small enclosures (no matter the brand) will always struggle. No car audio company has yet to figure out how to break the laws of physics.
I have a 21 Tacoma with two Sundown SA 6.5's in a ported box. I'm considering swapping them out for a Sundown SML 12 also in a ported box. What are you thoughts?
One of these? lddy.no/1ef7c Looks like it needs 1.25 to 1.75 cuft of airspace. If you have the airspace it will be a lot better (more total cone area, more power handling, more X max). But if you try to cram it into a tiny box it will sound like crap.
Great video but one thing you might want to consider.....for an educatonal video there seem to be a lot of things done "off camera". Unfortunately not everyone has seen your videos from day 1 so even a quick look at what you are doing "off camera" might be helpful to some people. Otherwise a great video and keep them coming!
My thoughts as well. But, even if it was cut out, and we didn't see it, it couldn't be much left to cut out. Would affect the wave, and also would have a little more back pressure. Some half round, stand outs on the back wall, to support the ports, would have probably helped the performance of the driver, and it wouldn't "choke" the driver as much. I think there would be more standing waves, and cancelation issues with it..but idk.
I've been toying with win ISP for a little bit got a question for adding Xmax do you count the whole throw (forward and back)? or only one way (Halved)? Example if the listed Xmax is 22mm, would you do the whole thing or half (11mm) it?
@@DIYAudioGuy, Ok for the TS parameters if it says 22 mm that is only one way? Or is it full throw and I half it to enter into the file? Apologies for the questions, I want to understand this stuff, your channel is awesome and has the little stuff nobody talks about
Wats up man I got 2 12 Kicker - 44L7S122 I put 2.5 lift kit in my back seat in my 2009 Chevy Silverado 4 door Wat kind of box do u recommend??? These guys out here can’t seam to make me a good box? Can u help me out??
I did not make plans since most people will need to build the box to fit the vehicle. But since there is inerest in it I will see if I can bust out some plans when I have some time off near Christmas. I will drop you a link when I get them finished.
That brace is making the airspace behind it completely useless, you should cut half of it off it'll probably give you some slightly better low end performance
Does the actual shape of a box matter? Obvioisly size does but just shape? Im building a box to go in a boat and to get the space i need im basically building a box just big enough to hold the 12" woofer, the shooting a long piece off the back a couple ft to get my air space. Long part is probably %60 as tall as the speaker part and equal width. I dont see why it wouldnt work
In my opinion the shape does not matter. I am sure that somebody could make up something extreme where odd shapes make strange second chambers or transmission lines, but for the most part it does not matter.
@DIYAudioGuy thank you so much for replying and clarifying. That's what I run into when reading was how the air movement behind one half the speaker with lots of room vs the other half would be different and all the horrors that go with it haha. Free solobaric L7 12" so I'm just gonna send it. Was suffocated in a 1 cuft box before so anything should be an improvement
Good evening sir, i just love your vids, but there is one problem that i constantly have with my sub boxes. Even after using winisd and speakerbox, to calculate the parameters of the box, i don't get the same amount of bass out of my sub, as the stock box was louder(but didn't fit my trunk). Now, what i'm constantly seeing is that, when i open the trunk of the car, the bass gets extremely powerful and i'm starting to think that maybe the sub doesn't have enough air in the trunk???. To be precise i'm talking about a Opel Astra g convertible. The box has the port facing the trunk and the speaker facing the interior of the car through the skipass. I am at my 5th box... I had the port in every direction possible and i still don't get any good results. I want to make a good box with the speakers facing the trunk like in the old days, but i want to feel a good amount of bass.(i don't need ground shaking bass, as i have a convertible and i just want to add a little bit of umff). Any ideea how i can add the volume of the trunk to the box calculations? Many thanks in advance
WinISD doesn't have any way built into it to account for the space that you put the subwoofer in. My guess is that you've got a problem with a standing wave and that's giving you some form of cancellation inside the vehicle. To be honest I'm not really sure what you can do about that.
@@DIYAudioGuy also, i just remembered something, knowing that the car is a convertible, the only connection between the interior of the car and the trunk is the skipass. Should i make the subs facing the interior with the port, or should i have them facing the trunk with a spacer between the skipass and the box, so that it doesn't cover the hole?
@@alexnechi3053 I've had the same problem happen on a BMW. You need to have the sub facing the skipass, doesn't matter if your box is sealed or not. The difference was day and night for me.
@@DIYAudioGuy Reason I am asking is cause I have limited space. I mean my trunk is large. It is a Lincoln MKZ but since I need to put a wheelchair in the trunk sometimes I am trying to find out how I can get the most bass but meet my needs with space. I'm not sure what I should do.
Sadly your product card overlays onto my TV screen and cannot be removed. It’s on every one of your videos I’ve tried to watch. Is it because of the way you “tag” HD? They are known for such antics.
Good video! Informative and succinct....but for God's sake...wear a proper dust mask when machining MDF! IIt doesn't matter how good your ventilation is... It's nasty stuff.
I guess im just not educated enough to fellow what your talking about . just a simple man trying to learn how to build a speaker box . maybe make a video with more simple terms . its really seems you know what your talking about .
The first 1,000 people to use the link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: skl.sh/diyaudioguy10221
Good video ! It amazes me how many people use shallow subwoofers when they don't need to. And think shallow means they can use a small box. You did good job pointing out that shallow subs still need air space . Shallow means shallow box not small box
That is exactly what I was going for!
My only regret is that I think I tuned it a tad bit too low.
@@DIYAudioGuy yep. most of these subs with limited displacement need a higher tuning to get real music to pop
@@blakebrockhaus347 I think I ended up tuning this one a little bit too low.
@@DIYAudioGuy smaller the box, the higher the tuning frequency should be.
Rather than using a shallow 10, I think a normal 8” sub would yield better results. While shallow subs have their place & convenience , they have their limitations from what few I have fooled with.
I think one thing to note about passive radiators is that there are many manufacturers, so you can totally design your own box with a PR for most subs, and they will still be smaller than what you can achieve with a normal air vent at the same box volume.
Got a f250 single cab so very little for what I want. The sealed box for my truck is .75 for 12's. Found some pioneer 12 shollow mount (4 ohm) on sell that would match the air space. 400 rms x2 cobalt amp 350 rms x2. Thought it would be temporary setup, but it sounds so good it's been about 2 years now and never changed it out. It's a perfect blend with the JBL in the doors.
If it works, and you're happy with it, don't change your thing.
Verry good almost 125db. at 50hz whit this slick and slim box , iteresting build 👍
I have a pair of shallow 12” Skars in my Grand Cherokee. I wanted to go full width between the rear wheel wells, no higher than the back of the seat and stay as shallow as I could to keep my storage space. The box volume is what ended up deciding the woofers, as with the width and height I needed a minimum depth to clear the woofer and the 12s worked out best. Ended up just a bit over 2cu/ft total sealed which is exactly what Skar recommends for them, pretty happy with the end result. They dig low but aren’t overwhelming, and to my ear really don’t hit the higher bass very hard. Would be interesting to see what they’d do ported but Skar doesn’t give recommendations for that and I’m just not good enough with winisd to get a definitive answer as to whether or not it’s worth it.
That sounds about right.
In my 2011 Toyota Tundra Crewmax I removed as much as I could from the back wall I did about what you're doing except 3/4 that the box was made of steel in my build. There are two Kenwood 12in low Pros, to Kenwood 9106D amplifiers running off a converter from the old subwoofer and this converter also has a bass knob. The JBL system is doing very well otherwise and it is one of the hardest hitting best sounding trucks. I knew this because I get complimented all the time LOL I'm not fishing for them though I'm looking for business. My Real Steel boxes are 3/4 made of steel various thicknesses and with special concert shapes to ensure that you get the best-of-the-best
As usual, a great, informative, detailed, video. Thanks again my friend. I'm not even looking into putting in shallow mount subs but obviously if I was, this is my first stop.
Glad it was helpful!
I don't do car stuff, (too old, can't bend, too tall, bad luck with it) but I do enjoy watching someone ELSE do it! I see there is more to consider when doing car audio sub builds often times. Angles, more attention to where to place components, etc. It sounds like the end result would be perfect for matching up with a stock system to give it just that needed 'oomph' in the lower octaves. Probably all most people really need.
I think you're right, on all accounts.
I love this channel. Great video as always.👍
Thank you very much!
All those fancy tools, yet you end up using a jigsaw instead of a holesaw for your port holes.
Great video.
Just got back from finals and catching up on videos. Great video as always!!
Awesome! Thank you!
Don’t forget room loading. Close to a rear wall, tuning for free space anechoic f3 is probably in fact tuning for f6. Years of speaker building have taught me to tune for 4 pi space in bass due to room mode reinforcement. Pro audio and larger venues need f3 but home hifi uses f6 because of room reinforcement. Baffle step within 4ft of rear wall means no room power response losses so baffle step compensation is not needed if design includes for this room lift. Every day is a learning day when you tune by measurement not box calculators which needs some practical reality built into assumptions and don’t forget to consider box QTS impacts on actual port tuning to more accurately account for virtual length of the tuned acoustic line which is approx 65% the calculated acoustic line (vent length) box calculators provide unless they account for box Q values.
What does any of that have to do with stuffing a subwoofer behind the seat in a standard cab truck?
Toyota trucks are a good place for them. The shallow NVX does require more than most though, but hit a little lower.
Great video!!! Love watching these videos and learning about building boxes, what to look for, etc. Keep up the good work
More to come!
I have a single cab F250. There is a Punch P3s behind the seat. I have been on a conquest for hard hitting bass in my truck without major modification to my seats, cab, and bed
Good bass in a truck is a real challenge. There just not much space to work with unless you want to go wild and pull out seats or do a blow through.
@@DIYAudioGuy Yeah, that’s my bottleneck. I was looking at the new kicker CompRT, and viewing your channel for box build ideas.
I am wondering if 4-6.5’s would be a contender under the bench seat.
I dig your videos, and an now a subscriber. I am sure I will find a plethora of knowledge here
@@iamgriff I am not a big fan of small subwoofers. They just can't get as low. But if that is all that will fit then that is your only real choice.
Ola saludos desde Colombia ese refuerzo intermedio evita que el subwoofer use bien el volumen de la caja ya que es como una pared con un orificio casi más chico que los mismo Port entonces limita el movimiento de aire en la caja tendrías que usarla sin ese refuerzo sonaría mucho mejor
In the cab of a van with a bulkhead behind the backseat these thumb hard like a big box in a car
What is the name of the program you use for calculating the seize of the box and de hertz?
Awesome video, I am trying to build something simular for 96 hilux dual cab. However, I want to add a pair of 6 x 9's and amp racking to the enclosure, any tips?
nice
im going to build one simular for a b2200 single cab 🤔
ive been thinking it would be cool to build the ports externaly into the bottom of the center consol ya know so i shake the heck outof whatever is in my cup holders lol
7:38 I knew I was high when i realized i wasn’t watching this video 13:17 now I’m realizing he not gonna show us his box playing
I need this for my tundra crewmax so bad
I have 2 12” Kenwood shallow mount subs in custom sealed enclosure I made for my ‘99 Ford Ranger standard cab truck. It’s been a while so I can’t remember the exact specs (about .75cuft each), but I’ve always thought they’ve sounded great! And can rattle your bones if you crank them up.
The extra cone area definitely helps.
Rn I got a 96 single cab and with 2 10s behind the seat I def need more room for myself
Hey, been watching your videos for a few years now. How do you determine when to use two ports vs. one port?
There's no Harding fast rule, you just need a big enough Port opening to prevent port noise. In this case I used two 2-in ports because I just happen to have 2 inch PVC pipe laying around and a single 2 2 inch Port would not be big enough.
Using thin plywood and regular bracing battens can help claw back some box volume vs external volume. Using 3/4" mdf is adding 1.5" on each side, making your box less compact than it needs to be. It's also quite flexible and heavy for its thickness. A sheet of 3/8" or even 1/4" baltic birch and battens every 4" or so connecting the sides will give you a rigid enclosure that's smaller and lighter. The ultimate low bulk bracing would be L-aluminium. You will need extra reinforcement by the speaker. Of course it will take longer to build a box like this but I'm a light weight fanatic.
Have you ever crunched the numbers to see just how much space you would gain by using smaller material, versus how much space the extra bracing would take up?
There's always a trade-off.
I wonder if that type of construction would change the frequency response or the way it sounds.
@@DIYAudioGuy the trade off in bracing is actually time taken, for you can use relatively thin pieces - kebab sticks almost, as end to end (compression and tension) rigidity is much greater than transverse rigidity. If you don't have a fascination for performance that defies weight and size, it might not be worth it. Wooden strips from a hardware store work surprisingly well but are climbing in prices a lot. Curved surfaces are also a lot more rigid, although they might not pack well into a certain space, and do need to be made out of a special flexible plywood - with a thin centre grain for flexibility in that direction, and thick outer grains for rigidity in the other direction.
I made some bookshelf speakers and the sides of the box were 1/8 of an inch birch plywood - no joke! Okay the front and back, top and bottom were 1/2" offcuts, but the sides didn't even ring when I rapped them with my knuckles after the battens had been glued on and a cross batten for good measure. Actually I can't even remember if I added a cross batten as the box was only about 7" deep.
I have a subwoofer box built of 3/8" plywood for a 12 and the external dimensions are 18" x 18" x 22". It's a high efficiency PA 12" so needs a bigger box than a car audio driver. The ports are 45 degree triangles in each corner. There is a ring shaped baffle brace and a couple of strips on the back of the box.
The other box is 1/2" ply with similar bracing pattern except no recessed baffle and a cross of two pieces on the back wall. The weight of each box with neo driver is about 35 lbs.
Of course, MDF does need to be thicker for the same rigidity and doesn't take damp nearly as well, or screws into end grain, or even glue into end grain, which is why I prefer to work with plywood for everything except neatness of finish. Also, plywood offcuts are better for bracing than MDF is. I love the smooth surface of MDF for painting without it looking like plywood grain underneath. There is a lot of poor quality plywood around though in UK, and it's not even that cheap in price.
@Tipman2OOO if you can get it rigid it shouldn't do. If you're getting panel resonance then you'll lose output and might hear other noises.
I just got a 80's model c10 truck and juat purchased 2 shallow mount Diablo subs. Can i get a decent sound with them in the same box? Will i need to split the box internally, or can i wire them a specific way??
Holy smokes you’re knowledgeable! I’m considering buying 2 small subs in a prefab box (8” or 10”) for my 87 standard cab Toyota truck and there are many options to choose from out there with inconsistent reviews. I’m very tall and not brand loyal. In your opinion (in terms of perfect tuning/quality) who provides the best product? Rockford Fosgate, Alpine, JL Audio, Kicker, etc. Local audio installers are quoting me $1,000 to build/install a custom fiberglass enclosure (without the speakers) which exceeds my budget. Thanks for your time and advice!
Yea, that's why I got into DIY. This is the best drop in solution, squeeze in a pair of the 12s if the will fit. ua-cam.com/video/-s78YDDwB0I/v-deo.html
@@DIYAudioGuyThank you for taking the time to respond. I was looking at that box. Just stumbled across your channel today so I’ve subscribed and I would like to contribute also.
I’ve built two boxes like this my own holds two old 1042D type R and it will amaze you with a low wattage amplifier (MRP-500)
💪
Great video as usual I appreciate all the info you put out for all the people still learning. Could you do a video on how to figure out the subwoofer displacement when neither the website or information come in the box.
As soon as I figure out a reliable way to figure that out I will.
@@DIYAudioGuy Thank you sir you have earned my loyalty as well as my subscription dollars
Do you have a video of doing a 12 inch shallow mount sub box with a passive radiator instead of ports?? I would be interested to see if you like that better than using ports. Thanks!!
Not a video where I build one, but it is a good solution to the thin box problem. ua-cam.com/video/-s78YDDwB0I/v-deo.htmlsi=1oeJ0G3w_VcqYME7
Question. I'm starting to build a box for the back of my crew cab. I came up with 1.3. C F. Using a series 1. Kicker. 10. I've had it forever Don't know if I want to port it. But if I did. I can't remember what port length it would need I been out of car audio since the 90s.
I've built the manual box for an Audison APS8R sub and it sounds not as good as it should, and now I'm building another enclosure, with almost 50% more volume and a much bigger port to get more low end extension and stop port noise
That should do the trick.
Maybe i missed something but it looked like you left the the brace fpr the ports solid. Won't that dramatically change the characteristics of the enclosure?
I cut a window into the brace, just did not get it on camera.
@@DIYAudioGuy ok. I tried going back and re watching the final assembly and from the angle i couldn't tell if it had a window or not
@@joshuaranks3950 7:44
Where do I find the Gross Airspace Excel Spreadsheet? I'm still looking at my pickup and I'm thinking thin with a shallow mount up against the back wall and this video here is a good start.
Patreon.com/diyaudioguy
I would like to know how many watts you pushed the subwoofer with.
What is the better option two small subs or one larger? How much speaker and how much box do I need if I'm not trying to shake the wall down?
I want to make a speaker system for my car, it's an older SUV and there's plenty of space but... I use it for camping and I'm frequently driving on very rough and dusty terrain. Also I fold the rear forward and sleep in the back of it, so all the extra space where a well designed ported box is unavailable. There are two places I am thinking of for the sub: under the two front seats (12" x 10" x 6") or along the rear passenger wall, think old small truck bed, it would shape around the rear wheel arch like the letter P rotated clockwise 90 degrees.
Any way, my real question is power out put. I have a car that has a very good factory sound system and all it has are two 8" subs mounted under the rear window in the trunk. This sound system sounds so good and has more bass than I would even need. What is the better option two small subs or one larger? How much speaker and how much box do I need?
Great content, helpful information. I took a stab at trying the new AB basshawk shallow 12. VERY impressive, first shallow to do so for me. And that test was sealed about 1.2.
Honestly, I am not sure. I have heard the same thing but have not seen any tests.
9:14 "pEfect"
I attempted to enter the driver data for the NVX SMW10D4 into WinISD, but the frequency curve does not look like the curve shown in the video. Has anyone created a WinISD .wdr file for this driver? Also, I could use some guidance creating the graph settings in WinISD to match those shown in this video. Thanks
Yup I have 4 kicker comp R shallow12 sub excab Chevy took up every bit of space back and bottom tight fit.🎶💯👌✌️👍🥂
How does it sound.
@@DIYAudioGuy sound great for not being able to see any of it the lows are okay but could be harder but for shallow subs not to bad 💯🎶👌✌️👍🥂
12:07 WinISD routinely overestimates port length. need to reduce the length to about 80% of what WinISD suggests to get the correct port length for 34 hz. if you still have the box calc saved in WinISD you can change the tuning to 31.3 hz and see what it adjusts the port length to x 0.8 vs the 13.25" you made.
I've noticed that and I started compensating whenever I build my boxes. I get the same problem when I use the formula for port length as well. I find it if I want a 34 Hertz enclosure that if I design it for 36 Hertz I tend to hit 34 pretty reliably.
Would be keen to get the dimensions of this box would work well as a custom parcel shelf in my hatch happy to pay
A lot of people have been asking for them. I guess I should draw up some plans and post them in my store.
Apposed* to using space…
You need to put some of your enclosures in your store.
I had the plans when I have time.
Whats the cubic foot specs for the box and box dimensions ?
What program did you use to.comfigure the wedge dimensions ? Winsid doesn't do that or does it ?
You can just do that math by hand, I always do it in a spreadsheet just because I do this a lot and it's easier to set up the formulas in the spreadsheet and plug in numbers as needed.
@@DIYAudioGuy awesome thanks
I can’t a setup for 22 Tundra with the small double cab
Great video is there a program I can use for my box I have a shallow mount 10” sundown
WinISD
Hey man. I have a Subaru OEM under seat Subwoofer by Panasonic. Is there any way I can get more out of it? Maybe adding a port or upgrading the speaker in it
You might be able to, but it will be a real challenge. You don't have much space to work with, so the physics are not on your side.
Question got a Nissan frontier 2015 crew cab. Has no room behind seat and only box made is sealed for under rear seat. It’s L shaped. I want to build a ported L shaped box that can be wider or stick out from seat bottom a few inches. And upfiring. For 2 10s. But want it to sound good. Have 2 shallow mount skars I know skars aren’t great but it’s in my sons truck. Any options any input?
You are fighting against physics. So don't expect a massive improvement even if you throw a ton of money at it.
How come you got your highest SPL nearly 20Hz above the tuning frequency? I’m still trying to understand why you set the tuning frequency so low when there is little music with consistent 30Hz tones. Loved the video though!
The tuning frequency is not going to be your peak spl.
Do you have a video explaining tuning frequency? 😂 I've seen most of them but haven't found that yet.
Can you fit 2 JL audio 12 tw1 behide Tacoma seats in a ported box?
No idea. I am only able to work on my own vehicles so unless I buy a Tacoma I may never know.
What woul You suggest ? I have aVW bus and i want to build a as good subwoofer as possible, but i have only room 100 cm x 35 cm x 17cm, i have av amp. of 630w stable to 1 Ohm ? Thank you
That should give you enough airspace for a single 10. You will probably want to use a passive radiator in order to make the most out of the available space.
Hi great video.
Is there anyway to get two 12 behind the seat of a standard cab Chevy 1995 truck without losing legroom. I am looking for that hard bass sound.
That is a tight fit. I have not seen the inside of one of those in 15 years, so I cannot say for sure what you can do.
Well thank you for getting back to me. I do appreciate it.
Will that subwoofer work in a small sealed truck box? I have a Skar 10" sealed inclosure made specifically for a 2023 Toyota Tacoma.
That is what it is made for. Just keep in mind that small subs in small enclosures (no matter the brand) will always struggle. No car audio company has yet to figure out how to break the laws of physics.
@@DIYAudioGuy thank you for the advice.
I have a 21 Tacoma with two Sundown SA 6.5's in a ported box. I'm considering swapping them out for a Sundown SML 12 also in a ported box. What are you thoughts?
One of these? lddy.no/1ef7c Looks like it needs 1.25 to 1.75 cuft of airspace. If you have the airspace it will be a lot better (more total cone area, more power handling, more X max). But if you try to cram it into a tiny box it will sound like crap.
Great video but one thing you might want to consider.....for an educatonal video there seem to be a lot of things done "off camera". Unfortunately not everyone has seen your videos from day 1 so even a quick look at what you are doing "off camera" might be helpful to some people. Otherwise a great video and keep them coming!
That's just how things go when you are one man operation.
What is the black box for finding tuning frequency
parts-express.sjv.io/b3BEDP
How did you get the 1.25 cubic feet number? Im having a hard time finding sub box size requirements
I think that was in the manual.
@9:20 it looks like he has sealed off one third of the box ??? surely he could have just made the box smaller !
I cut out a big hole in that center brace.
@@DIYAudioGuy my bad , cant see the hole in the vid. nice work shop by the way.
That's what I thought too . But i guess we didn't see that part. 😂😂..oopsy
My thoughts as well. But, even if it was cut out, and we didn't see it, it couldn't be much left to cut out. Would affect the wave, and also would have a little more back pressure. Some half round, stand outs on the back wall, to support the ports, would have probably helped the performance of the driver, and it wouldn't "choke" the driver as much. I think there would be more standing waves, and cancelation issues with it..but idk.
Could have also, just cut the brace off, from above the top port. Leaving more internal volume exposed.
I've been toying with win ISP for a little bit got a question for adding Xmax do you count the whole throw (forward and back)? or only one way (Halved)? Example if the listed Xmax is 22mm, would you do the whole thing or half (11mm) it?
It is supposed to be just one direction.
@@DIYAudioGuy, Ok for the TS parameters if it says 22 mm that is only one way? Or is it full throw and I half it to enter into the file?
Apologies for the questions, I want to understand this stuff, your channel is awesome and has the little stuff nobody talks about
Wats up man I got 2 12
Kicker - 44L7S122
I put 2.5 lift kit in my back seat in my 2009 Chevy Silverado 4 door
Wat kind of box do u recommend??? These guys out here can’t seam to make me a good box? Can u help me out??
Even with the seat lift it is hard to build a good box under a seat.
Where can I get that excel spreadsheet you used
It is just one that I threw together for the video, took about two or three minutes to type in a few formulas.
when making a ported box and one 10"
how does a two 10" in same size box sound? adding dsp should get you anything you want from it.
it becomes undersized and has bad extension. But some people make small sealed subs and use DSP to get bass extension
@@FSXgta and then the dual 10" has all the advantages, better sound quality for same size box, and goes deeper in frequency.
@@sudd3660 nah
is there a file for the NVX speakers for WINISD?
Note that I know.
how do i get the plans for this box or able to buy said box premade
I did not make plans since most people will need to build the box to fit the vehicle. But since there is inerest in it I will see if I can bust out some plans when I have some time off near Christmas. I will drop you a link when I get them finished.
Ty very much its to fit behind seat of an 89 f350 single cab ..an they dont have much room
That brace is making the airspace behind it completely useless, you should cut half of it off it'll probably give you some slightly better low end performance
I did not show the process in the video, but you can see as I'm assembling the box that I cut a large window in the brace.
Where I can buy one of those boxes?
Lowes 😂
Does the actual shape of a box matter? Obvioisly size does but just shape? Im building a box to go in a boat and to get the space i need im basically building a box just big enough to hold the 12" woofer, the shooting a long piece off the back a couple ft to get my air space. Long part is probably %60 as tall as the speaker part and equal width. I dont see why it wouldnt work
In my opinion the shape does not matter. I am sure that somebody could make up something extreme where odd shapes make strange second chambers or transmission lines, but for the most part it does not matter.
@DIYAudioGuy thank you so much for replying and clarifying. That's what I run into when reading was how the air movement behind one half the speaker with lots of room vs the other half would be different and all the horrors that go with it haha. Free solobaric L7 12" so I'm just gonna send it. Was suffocated in a 1 cuft box before so anything should be an improvement
Good evening sir, i just love your vids, but there is one problem that i constantly have with my sub boxes. Even after using winisd and speakerbox, to calculate the parameters of the box, i don't get the same amount of bass out of my sub, as the stock box was louder(but didn't fit my trunk). Now, what i'm constantly seeing is that, when i open the trunk of the car, the bass gets extremely powerful and i'm starting to think that maybe the sub doesn't have enough air in the trunk???. To be precise i'm talking about a Opel Astra g convertible. The box has the port facing the trunk and the speaker facing the interior of the car through the skipass. I am at my 5th box... I had the port in every direction possible and i still don't get any good results. I want to make a good box with the speakers facing the trunk like in the old days, but i want to feel a good amount of bass.(i don't need ground shaking bass, as i have a convertible and i just want to add a little bit of umff). Any ideea how i can add the volume of the trunk to the box calculations? Many thanks in advance
WinISD doesn't have any way built into it to account for the space that you put the subwoofer in.
My guess is that you've got a problem with a standing wave and that's giving you some form of cancellation inside the vehicle.
To be honest I'm not really sure what you can do about that.
@@DIYAudioGuy also, i just remembered something, knowing that the car is a convertible, the only connection between the interior of the car and the trunk is the skipass. Should i make the subs facing the interior with the port, or should i have them facing the trunk with a spacer between the skipass and the box, so that it doesn't cover the hole?
@@alexnechi3053 I've had the same problem happen on a BMW. You need to have the sub facing the skipass, doesn't matter if your box is sealed or not. The difference was day and night for me.
I have a question. Why can't you just make it sealed?
You can.
@@DIYAudioGuy Reason I am asking is cause I have limited space. I mean my trunk is large. It is a Lincoln MKZ but since I need to put a wheelchair in the trunk sometimes I am trying to find out how I can get the most bass but meet my needs with space. I'm not sure what I should do.
@@matthewearl9824 ua-cam.com/video/-s78YDDwB0I/v-deo.html
Sadly your product card overlays onto my TV screen and cannot be removed. It’s on every one of your videos I’ve tried to watch. Is it because of the way you “tag” HD? They are known for such antics.
Odd, that's not something I have any control over.
Thanks. It’s weird. It comes and goes. Enjoy the content.
if you are going shallow why not go sealed?
I prefer ported.
I think the video should be titled, shallow box
👍
Nice box. You could improve your carpeting technique.
I struggle with carpet. I need more practice.
A lot of box wasted just for ports and anesthetics. Other then that being my only "constructive" criticism, it came out very good.
Not sure what you mean by wasted box.
I think he doesn't realize u cut a window into the port brace so to alot of viewers it looks like you have a box with 2 chambers.
Good video! Informative and succinct....but for God's sake...wear a proper dust mask when machining MDF!
IIt doesn't matter how good your ventilation is... It's nasty stuff.
I often find myself running out to the garage to make "just one cut" and forget to grab the mask. I need to do better. Thanks for the reminder.
7:28 Use a hole saw drill bit, for christ's sake.
I did not have one that was 2 and 3/8 OD.
The pipe too long will you...?
😂😂😂😂😂
I guess im just not educated enough to fellow what your talking about . just a simple man trying to learn how to build a speaker box . maybe make a video with more simple terms . its really seems you know what your talking about .
What part do you not understand?
A like si mucho that red shir
Thanks