It's called faulty maintainence folks..Previous mechanic was negligent in removing/ installing center mount bolt when doing timing belt. This resulting in the owners father having to go back in and redo faulty work. Now that the preventative maintainence is done, regular maintainence can carry on. I have worked on many Neons and PTs ...PTs are by far more cramped in the engine bay. But better to spend a few days a year keeping up on the maintainence shedule than looking @ the relentless monthly payments on new vehicles. Good on you for having the patience and work ethic to address your daughter's mechanical needs. Best to you and yours.
Excellent video , Trey. Most of these engine isolator videos incorrectly ID all of these as engine mounts. They are not. The top and bottom components are TORQUE STRUTS that control engine motion when the engine/trans rolls in torque during access and decelerations. Only the center mount IS the engine mount and carries the weight of the front of the engine 24/7/365. When this rubber mount fails, it is only a matter of time before the torque strut rubbers fail, too, as they are not designed to carry the dead weight of the engine. Because the center mount is buried in the body, many shade tree mechanics choose to ignore it and only change the torque struts (which will fail again in short order). I really appreciate your efforts in showing the DIY viewers that this job can be done at home. Compounded by the fact that your engine mount bolt was sheared off! Great work!
WOW is right! I was getting anxiety just watching the video. I have to replace all four mounts in my wife's PT, but I think I'll take it to someone else to do the central mount. Thanks for the video.
Man, they're rattly old pigs, aren't they? Mine's been cared for, but is starting to vibrate in Drive at the lights. Certainly isn't trying to eject itself from the car - yet... Cool vid, man. Thanks for your effort. Cheers, Andy
Missing the snubber pad from my right mount. Dgaf im just putting the new one on anyway. Also the torgue struts are not mounts they don't hold your car up at all. They just make sure the engine doesn't jump when shifting gears and such. Pt cruiser only has a left and right mount on the engine and transmission respectively.
Shit, time to sell my car!! My top mount is cactus, the bottom mount is just as bad and im guessing now my center engine mount is ka-put to. I love the PT Cruiser but im not going thru all this just for an engine mount, sheesh! 10 out of 10 for what you did mate. Hi from Australia.
My daughter also has a PT but considerable older 2001. Clunk noises from front end , so I ordered Bushings and lower bass joints. Had to go through your first part of video but went on to remove lower A arms and pressing out the vertical bushing and ball joint. My advice, would be to just buy a complete lower control arm, not worth the time involved pressing those out. Your vide was most excellent, thanks.
I would really have liked to see a close up of the old mounts, so I can see how worn they are compared to new ones. My upper and lowers look okay to me. I haven't seen the main mount. My engine isn't really jumping around anything like yours, but it does seem to be a common issue on the PT.
The lower mount can cause the trany not to work properly? I found out today that a bolt was missing. Will it fix the trany problem once the bolt is replaced?
There is a special Chrysler/Mitsubishi puller that hooks the harmonic balancer from the hub (OTC Tools OTC6667) Using a standard three jaw puller can bend or break the pulley if you encounter any resistance. The proper puller has a set of hardened steel pins that insert into the bolt hole after you remove the bolt completely, and doesn't put pressure on the threads. These pulleys often break.. just a warning to y'all.. (22 years pro mechanic)
I bought an impact wrench, specifically for removing the center bolt on the harmonic stabilizer. I had to trade up on ones from Harbor Freight to get the right amount of torque to loosen it.
EZTZ Productions I agree totally! In this case, we had a new head and timing belt put on the car < 20,000 miles earlier. They are the ones that apparently broke the bolt in the center mount causing the other mounts to wear out more quickly. If the timing belt had a few more miles on it, I definitely would have replaced it!
Yes, absolutely! On my 2008 non-turbo, when I did my timing belt, water pump, etc. and had it all disassembled I didn't want to add more to what I was doing at that time. Well, now it's basically doing it all over again. If it's even remotely close to the time to change the timing belt, definitely do the motor mounts at the same time. It doesn't add that much cost and saves loads of time down the road. Very helpful video - it is doable, but not easy!
so the moral of this long story is if you have a bad central mount you will be throwing away the car. Years ago we might tie down a bad mount with something & travel on down the road
Hey there I have replace a water pump on your pt cruise yet. Why I ask I have the same year pt cruise my self. I do like your videos 📹 on here & keep up the good work on your video & hope to see more your video too I'm calling from Houston TX
Hello! I did replace that water pump when I replaced the head and timing system. It just seemed to make sense based on the other work I was doing. I didn’t think to video it. I should have. My daughter has since sold the car.
Hello Trey. Do you think loosening the transmission mount (which I am replacing along with the engine mount and both torque struts) would buy any hand clearance by shifting the engine a bit to the driver's side? I would use a second jack to support the trans along with the one under the engine oil pan.
Excellent video! Well done through explanations, video shots, etc not just for a driveway wrencher, but rivals any mechanic I've seen doing PT engine bay work. I will be tackling my belts for replacement on my '05 PT GT convertible, only 53k but 15yrs old. Your video angles gave me great insight into the job ahead, will definitely be looking over my motor mounts once the winter car cover comes off, although I think I'm ok for now. Curious did you give any consideration to the upgraded polyurethane motor mounts? Anyway great video, surely your daughter is proud!!
Thank you very much for sharing this video. Do you remember how long it took to complete this job (without interruptions)? I am considering getting someone outside of a mechanic shop to do this for me and I want to be fair regarding pay. I like my mechanic shop but the cost is too much for me.
This is a case where the mechanic shop is actually charging you so much less than what it costs to fix your car. The only reason it's so cheap for a shop to do this stuff is because they're skilled and they have professional equipment a frs for example.
Its so common to find the main middle motor mount cross threaded on pt cruisers no one lines it up right 😆 that middle plate is also fun to take out and put in
I would have liked to see the old mounts sitting next to the new mounts for comparison. Also it looked like you placed the jack stands under the body and not the unibody frame rails. I have an '05 PT GT Turbo Convertible. So I have a lot tighter quarters and am basically screwed. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the info on replacing the central mount. I am attempting to do it myself. Already replaced other 3 and finally decided that 4th mount needed to be done as well. To raise up the engine did you use jack under oil pan and how far did you lift it?
Hello. I had to raise and lower the motor off and on in order to access the various bolts involved with the central mount. Just look at each bolt and determine if you think it is. better higher or lower and then adjust accordingly. If I was just replacing the central mount, I would remove bolts in the upper and lower mounts to allow for better raising and lowering of the motor.
Did you take the center mount out from the top or bottom? I finally got to it and removed bolts from mount but no clearance to pull it from top. Any advice is greatly appreciated :)
I pulled it out the top. You will have to remove the top motor mount, disconnect the bottom motor mount and jack the motor up with a jack under the oil pan. It might come out otherwise, but jacking up the helps quite a bit!
Thank you for the reply. I have removed bottom and top already. I hope to get it out without having to pull the harmonic balancer. It is a puzzle for sure trying to figure out lol
Hi, I have the problem that the bolts of the upper and lower motor mounts have been cut and I can't find the measures of those bolts to replace them. Does anybody know the specific part numbers? Thanks
06506147AA (06503982) Or you can go to your local Ace Hardware and look for a hex bolt with the size of M12X1.75X80 and they have them in grade 8 yellow zinc which looks a little nice.
Tenho um PT Cruiser e sou apaixonada por ele, um sonho realizado. Só que ele está acendendo a luz da injeção, e aqui em Fortaleza ce, não sei de um mecânico que entenda desse carro.
Hey there: I like your video on your 2008 Pt Cruiser, So I have you replace a water pump & time bleat on the same car. Why I ask I have a 2007 Pt Cruiser it keep overheat well I have replace the Coolant Temperature Sensor-3 time & Thermostat-4 time. so could you tell me why the fuck the Pt Cruiser keep overheat oh the water reservoir & still full of water. So I it could a bad water pump or what?I'm calling from Houston TxI hope to hear from you about my 2007 Pt Cruiser okAgain keep up the good work & would like to see more video again
Michael Shane Hello there. I did do a timing belt on this vehicle but didn’t do the water pump at that time. In my limited experience, these vehicles has a tendency to vapor lock. Every bit of air needs to be out of them. If my memory serves me, there is a bleed cap in a fitting on the coolant return line that you can use to bleed out vapor. If this doesn’t help and the cooling fans are coming on as designed, it might be the water pump. In my experience, I have never replaced a water pump for not being able to pump adequate water.
Who designs cars to have their mounts fail? LOL I have an '09 and if I start it, or accelerate, it squeaks a little. And nothing like cramming everything into a small space where you have to be a GI Joe in order to work an anything.. Come on "Chrysler" more like Mitsubishi.. Hmmm.. wonder if I'd do better swapping the motor out with something like a Honda or anything thats better than Mitsubishi? But hey, when it comes time to work on mine, this video will help Thank you!
Thank you very much for sharing this video. Do you remember how long it took to complete this job (without interruptions)? I am considering getting someone outside of a mechanic shop to do this for me and I want to be fair regarding pay. I like my mechanic shop but the cost is too much for me.
iluv hou Knowing what I know now, I think I could do this job in about 3 hours. With the broken bolt, it would stretch to 4 hours pretty quickly. I hope you are able to resolve your engine mount issues quickly!
It's called faulty maintainence folks..Previous mechanic was negligent in removing/ installing center mount bolt when doing timing belt. This resulting in the owners father having to go back in and redo faulty work. Now that the preventative maintainence is done, regular maintainence can carry on. I have worked on many Neons and PTs ...PTs are by far more cramped in the engine bay. But better to spend a few days a year keeping up on the maintainence shedule than looking @ the relentless monthly payments on new vehicles. Good on you for having the patience and work ethic to address your daughter's mechanical needs. Best to you and yours.
Excellent video , Trey. Most of these engine isolator videos incorrectly ID all of these as engine mounts. They are not. The top and bottom components are TORQUE STRUTS that control engine motion when the engine/trans rolls in torque during access and decelerations. Only the center mount IS the engine mount and carries the weight of the front of the engine 24/7/365. When this rubber mount fails, it is only a matter of time before the torque strut rubbers fail, too, as they are not designed to carry the dead weight of the engine. Because the center mount is buried in the body, many shade tree mechanics choose to ignore it and only change the torque struts (which will fail again in short order). I really appreciate your efforts in showing the DIY viewers that this job can be done at home. Compounded by the fact that your engine mount bolt was sheared off! Great work!
I'd have been speaking in mechanic tongues to the car and the hack that fubared that bolt. Amazing how calm you were.
Thank you so much, great video with alot of detail. Your daughter is a very lucky lady to have such a wonderful father what a blessing you are..
Wow, your daughter struck gold in a mechanic dad. You must really love her!
WOW is right! I was getting anxiety just watching the video. I have to replace all four mounts in my wife's PT, but I think I'll take it to someone else to do the central mount. Thanks for the video.
Man, they're rattly old pigs, aren't they?
Mine's been cared for, but is starting to vibrate in Drive at the lights.
Certainly isn't trying to eject itself from the car - yet...
Cool vid, man.
Thanks for your effort.
Cheers, Andy
I had also found out that there is measurement according with the top and lower mount . Thanks man.
Missing the snubber pad from my right mount. Dgaf im just putting the new one on anyway.
Also the torgue struts are not mounts they don't hold your car up at all. They just make sure the engine doesn't jump when shifting gears and such.
Pt cruiser only has a left and right mount on the engine and transmission respectively.
Shit, time to sell my car!! My top mount is cactus, the bottom mount is just as bad
and im guessing now my center engine mount is ka-put to. I love the PT Cruiser
but im not going thru all this just for an engine mount, sheesh!
10 out of 10 for what you did mate.
Hi from Australia.
My daughter also has a PT but considerable older 2001. Clunk noises from front end , so I ordered Bushings and lower bass joints. Had to go through your first part of video but went on to remove lower A arms and pressing out the vertical bushing and ball joint. My advice, would be to just buy a complete lower control arm, not worth the time involved pressing those out. Your vide was most excellent, thanks.
I would really have liked to see a close up of the old mounts, so I can see how worn they are compared to new ones. My upper and lowers look okay to me. I haven't seen the main mount. My engine isn't really jumping around anything like yours, but it does seem to be a common issue on the PT.
The lower mount can cause the trany not to work properly? I found out today that a bolt was missing. Will it fix the trany problem once the bolt is replaced?
Yes, it will. Mine is 5 Speed. It used to vibrate and shudder when releasing the clutch accelerating. Replaced lower motor mount. Smooth as glass.
I had to replace a sensor to the tranny as well. Working great now. ☺️
There is a special Chrysler/Mitsubishi puller that hooks the harmonic balancer from the hub (OTC Tools OTC6667) Using a standard three jaw puller can bend or break the pulley if you encounter any resistance. The proper puller has a set of hardened steel pins that insert into the bolt hole after you remove the bolt completely, and doesn't put pressure on the threads. These pulleys often break.. just a warning to y'all.. (22 years pro mechanic)
Are there special considerations when working on the Turbo (S)? How can I inspect the middle mount?
Thanks for that I rented that tool for free.
Can't use non turbo parts on turbo cruiser.
You can use turbo parts on the non turbos tho.
Thanks for posting this video....
Great video 📹 👍 you go step by step aim going to do same job
WOW is right! Good job; nice video.
Man! You sure lost a lot of critical footage. Dang, I was waiting to see all that. Oh well, I just have to find out myself if I do one.
awesome video!!plan to do this weekend,for my 2004 cruiser,thanks a lot,save me $$$$$ on mechanic.
I bought an impact wrench, specifically for removing the center bolt on the harmonic stabilizer.
I had to trade up on ones from Harbor Freight to get the right amount of torque to loosen it.
Hella information for me! You got my Liked and Subcribed Dude..
Thank you Sir!
If you doing the center mount, you might as well do the timing belt job..Kill 2 birds
EZTZ Productions I agree totally! In this case, we had a new head and timing belt put on the car < 20,000 miles earlier. They are the ones that apparently broke the bolt in the center mount causing the other mounts to wear out more quickly. If the timing belt had a few more miles on it, I definitely would have replaced it!
Yes, absolutely! On my 2008 non-turbo, when I did my timing belt, water pump, etc. and had it all disassembled I didn't want to add more to what I was doing at that time. Well, now it's basically doing it all over again. If it's even remotely close to the time to change the timing belt, definitely do the motor mounts at the same time. It doesn't add that much cost and saves loads of time down the road. Very helpful video - it is doable, but not easy!
so the moral of this long story is if you have a bad central mount you will be throwing away the car. Years ago we might tie down a bad mount with something & travel on down the road
Wow, why was that bolt that holds the bracket only hand tight in that motor mount?
Use the puller on the hub and not on the outer rim. You can bend the belt retainer when using the puller on the outer rim
My thoughts exactly. I wouldn’t use an air impact either. Not for taking off a pulley
great job!
Hey there
I have replace a water pump on your pt cruise yet. Why I ask I have the same year pt cruise my self.
I do like your videos 📹 on here & keep up the good work on your video & hope to see more your video too
I'm calling from Houston TX
Hello! I did replace that water pump when I replaced the head and timing system. It just seemed to make sense based on the other work I was doing. I didn’t think to video it. I should have. My daughter has since sold the car.
Hello Trey. Do you think loosening the transmission mount (which I am replacing along with the engine mount and both torque struts) would buy any hand clearance by shifting the engine a bit to the driver's side? I would use a second jack to support the trans along with the one under the engine oil pan.
Excellent video! Well done through explanations, video shots, etc not just for a driveway wrencher, but rivals any mechanic I've seen doing PT engine bay work. I will be tackling my belts for replacement on my '05 PT GT convertible, only 53k but 15yrs old. Your video angles gave me great insight into the job ahead, will definitely be looking over my motor mounts once the winter car cover comes off, although I think I'm ok for now. Curious did you give any consideration to the upgraded polyurethane motor mounts? Anyway great video, surely your daughter is proud!!
Buffalo Blue I just used stock mounts. If I had researched it, I certainly would have used the improved version.
Thank you for your kind words. I always hope that these videos make life better for others. I have received so much help from watching others.
Thank you very much for sharing this video. Do you remember how long it took to complete this job (without interruptions)? I am considering getting someone outside of a mechanic shop to do this for me and I want to be fair regarding pay. I like my mechanic shop but the cost is too much for me.
This is a case where the mechanic shop is actually charging you so much less than what it costs to fix your car. The only reason it's so cheap for a shop to do this stuff is because they're skilled and they have professional equipment a frs for example.
Its so common to find the main middle motor mount cross threaded on pt cruisers no one lines it up right 😆 that middle plate is also fun to take out and put in
I would have liked to see the old mounts sitting next to the new mounts for comparison. Also it looked like you placed the jack stands under the body and not the unibody frame rails. I have an '05 PT GT Turbo Convertible. So I have a lot tighter quarters and am basically screwed. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the info on replacing the central mount. I am attempting to do it myself. Already replaced other 3 and finally decided that 4th mount needed to be done as well. To raise up the engine did you use jack under oil pan and how far did you lift it?
Hello. I had to raise and lower the motor off and on in order to access the various bolts involved with the central mount. Just look at each bolt and determine if you think it is. better higher or lower and then adjust accordingly. If I was just replacing the central mount, I would remove bolts in the upper and lower mounts to allow for better raising and lowering of the motor.
Thanks good Job
Is there 3 or 4 motor mounts and is it necessary to remove the middle one ?
Do you remember what size bolts are holding the center mount?
I'm sorry, but I don't recall.
I managed to get all bolts out of steel plate and it is supposed to lift right out. LOL any suggestions? about to use a sledge hammer LOL
@@TreyClanton ask parts store ,they know it all! stay happy
Did you take the center mount out from the top or bottom? I finally got to it and removed bolts from mount but no clearance to pull it from top. Any advice is greatly appreciated :)
I pulled it out the top. You will have to remove the top motor mount, disconnect the bottom motor mount and jack the motor up with a jack under the oil pan. It might come out otherwise, but jacking up the helps quite a bit!
Thank you for the reply. I have removed bottom and top already. I hope to get it out without having to pull the harmonic balancer. It is a puzzle for sure trying to figure out lol
I just said forget it and just changed the upper and lower motor mount and left the center mount seems to do fine with just those changed.
I did the exact same thing about a year ago after watching this video. And now my central motor mount bolt sheared off so I'm forced to change it 🙄
SpookyGamingHD just realized my bolts sheared off! Cars are crap!
SO ARE CAR PAYMENTS
Hi, I have the problem that the bolts of the upper and lower motor mounts have been cut and I can't find the measures of those bolts to replace them. Does anybody know the specific part numbers?
Thanks
German Luquez I went to a junkyard
06506147AA (06503982)
Or you can go to your local Ace Hardware and look for a hex bolt with the size of M12X1.75X80 and they have them in grade 8 yellow zinc which looks a little nice.
Wow. Crazy
What size puller did you have here?
Tenho um PT Cruiser e sou apaixonada por ele, um sonho realizado. Só que ele está acendendo a luz da injeção, e aqui em Fortaleza ce, não sei de um mecânico que entenda desse carro.
And here I was freaking out because I have to change a control arm and a lower mount. Yikes.
nothing to it
I replaced mine an hr ago
Hey there: I like your video on your 2008 Pt Cruiser, So I have you replace a water pump & time bleat on the same car. Why I ask I have a 2007 Pt Cruiser it keep overheat well I have replace the Coolant Temperature Sensor-3 time & Thermostat-4 time. so could you tell me why the fuck the Pt Cruiser keep overheat oh the water reservoir & still full of water. So I it could a bad water pump or what?I'm calling from Houston TxI hope to hear from you about my 2007 Pt Cruiser okAgain keep up the good work & would like to see more video again
Michael Shane Hello there. I did do a timing belt on this vehicle but didn’t do the water pump at that time. In my limited experience, these vehicles has a tendency to vapor lock. Every bit of air needs to be out of them. If my memory serves me, there is a bleed cap in a fitting on the coolant return line that you can use to bleed out vapor. If this doesn’t help and the cooling fans are coming on as designed, it might be the water pump. In my experience, I have never replaced a water pump for not being able to pump adequate water.
I'm surprised you didn't pull the harmonic balancer apart. You are supposed to pull it from the center not the outer edge.
Who designs cars to have their mounts fail? LOL I have an '09 and if I start it, or accelerate, it squeaks a little. And nothing like cramming everything into a small space where you have to be a GI Joe in order to work an anything.. Come on "Chrysler" more like Mitsubishi.. Hmmm.. wonder if I'd do better swapping the motor out with something like a Honda or anything thats better than Mitsubishi? But hey, when it comes time to work on mine, this video will help Thank you!
each one is as good as the other and better as they are all made in the same factory! only the nameplates are different! HO HO HO
Gotta be an easier way! I don't have your equipment, so guess I'll trash my pos. Stupid Chrysler!
THEY ARE ALL MADE IN THE SAME FACTORY, JUST THE NAME TAGS ARE DIFFERENT, STAY HAPPY!
Thank you very much for sharing this video. Do you remember how long it took to complete this job (without interruptions)? I am considering getting someone outside of a mechanic shop to do this for me and I want to be fair regarding pay. I like my mechanic shop but the cost is too much for me.
iluv hou Knowing what I know now, I think I could do this job in about 3 hours. With the broken bolt, it would stretch to 4 hours pretty quickly. I hope you are able to resolve your engine mount issues quickly!
Wow. Crazy