Gunstock Sanding and Finishing - THE RIGHT WAY!
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- Опубліковано 1 кві 2014
- How to sand fill and apply the oil finish to your gunstock the right way... Kurt's Custom Carving and Checkering shows you how the pros do it!
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All the music in this video was created by TiborasaurusRex, an unsigned artist.
Song Titles: Dawn of the Day, Particle Jam, Wadi Watir, Minefield
Music and Lyrics by: TiborasaurusRex
Instrumentation and Vocals by: TiborasaurusRex
Recorded by: TiborasaurusRex - Авто та транспорт
Growing up my Dad showed me how to do an oil change, swap out brake pads, clean a car the correct way and other things like crabbing and fishing and cooking. He passed away when I turned 21, which is 15 years ago. I recently bought my son a 870 and he needed a shorter stock so I got a cut but not finished bastogne walnut stock and forend and we are sanding it and finishing together. This video helped me teach him how to do this and we are on our 3rd coat of sanding and finishing. I really appreciate this video and forever thankful for allowing me to have a father son moment like back in the day.
Many thanks, this brought back memories of doing a stock under my fathers direction, I got the stocks to a mirror finish with the same system and methods that you use, I had forgotten over the years and now it has come back to me. Also the times spent with my dear departed Dad.
As I am back into the hobby of restoring old 303 lee Infields and Lithgow's here In Australia after 45 years, as the children have left the nest and my youngest son got me into Military shooting, We do the Anzac Day shoot and the Remembrance Day shoot, as the shoots do follow the old military way, when they fought as conscripts & volunteers of the days gone by of the 1914-1918 and the WW11 era's.
Thanks again my friend.
God I've never seen such a plain riflestock look so exquisite before. Very very nice work.
That's a whole lot different from the way I learned when I was a kid, some 60-odd years back. Back then, the refinishing I did involved a process called "whiskering" that involved sanding the stock, then exposing the smoothed stock to steam from a teakettle - just enough to dampen it slightly and raise the grain (the fibers of wood that came up to the surface) and make them curl up. The "whiskered" wood would then feel like a half-day old beard, and you'd sand again. You'd repeat steaming and sanding with progressively finer grit until all the fibers that would lift had been sanded away. Even without the finish, the wood was like glass. Generally, after the first coat of thinned varnish, there would be a whisker here or there, that you'd take down with either very fine sandpaper or a pumice or rottenstone rub, followed by another coat. It made for a beautiful finish. The other thing we always heard was that you should keep the sawdust down if you were working with walnut, because walnut sawdust can be toxic to some people. It is a gorgeous wood, though, so it is worth taking the trouble to work on, staying "upwind." Never saw the technique of leaving the sawdust on and rubbing it into the pores; interesting.
yup that's exactly what i learned as well. the reason for the cutting the whisker was that you could get the finish to penetrate a lil bit without over penetrating and soaking the stock. the oil won't penetrate beyond the depth of the whiskers you shaved off.
That gentleman stock craftsman is an excellent teacher..!
This dude is a boss, could listen to him explain any aspect of gun care
Amazing video as usual. I applied his methods to both a Mosin Nagant with a laminated stock and a yugo mauser M24/47. Both came out smooth as glass and look great. I didn't have a man of this experience or knowledge to touch base with so I appreciate you both for taking the time to teach so many. Maybe in 50 years we will see wood stocks done the right way in a few more collections.
Excellent! :-)
Thank you sir for your very informative video, I found it very useful.
That was the best lesson in stock finishing I've ever seen. A couple of things not mentioned: You sand and do the oil all with the butt plate on! Also, TruOil and Linspeed oil IS NOT LINSEED OIL. That stuff is just like polyurethane. Do not try what he did in the video with TruOil or Linspeed oil! Oh, and you can add driers to the oil if you want to make it dry faster.
Yes I am a little puzzled about the Brownells linseed oil he uses. It says boiled linseed oil on the container so assume its 100% but the classic method is 2/3 boiled linseed oil and 1/3 turpentine. The turpentine is just a dryer. I use mineral spirits, about 5/8 oil with 3/8 mineral spirits. I've never tried 100% linseed oil but some use it initially on a new stock to soak in, which hes doing here, and then go to the mix for sucessive sandings. It will darken the wood considerably, if that's what you want. Turpentine adds an odor and takes longer to dry than mineral spirits because it has a bit of pine pitch in it. Refinishing doesnt require any heavy sanding at all. Unless you're fixing problems or have fills, go no heavier than 320 paper on a refinish is my rule, it's already rough sanded essentially.
Old skool, love the gentle cigarette smoke flowing upward....very good information, thank you!
Simply the best how to video on stock refinishing. Thanks for creating and sharing this.
kurt's work is True Craftsmanship. you are the Godfather of Beautiful/Gunstocks.. Wish I had Your skills. from a uk Fan
Thats the sign of a master craftsman, when he can do work like that and have a cigarette in his hand at the same time lol. Great video!
Craftsman perhaps Master no. In-case anyone does not know! Boiled Linseed oil is EXTREMELY Flammable! I would say this is not so smart to be honest! Also the fact he is rubbing it in with his bare hands is ALSO not so smart . That stuff is toxic! He should be wearing gloves. Read the freaking cans people. Also he is right about sanding the oil into the wood, except he should be wet sanding a good bit of that oil into the wood with a 800 grit paper.
True, polymerized boiled linseed oil like the Brownells he is using is non-toxic. It's meant to be rubbed in by hand. If you actually read the label, like you proposed, it states that it's a 'possible irritant' in order to be sold in states such as California. BLO for gun stocks like Brownells, Birchwood Casey Tru Oil and Pilkington used to all have directions for rubbing in by hand on the label, but there's always the one jackass that takes a bath in it and now they have to remove those instructions.
Now, commercial BLO that you buy at Walmart or Costco under the brand names like Klean-Strip are not 'true' boiled linseed oil as they're simply impregnated with heavy metals which replicate the boiling process. This stuff IS toxic, and gloves should be worn when handling them. In my opinion, true boiled linseed oil doesn't cost much more than the Klean-Strip crap, so don't even bother with the fake stuff.
GUN OIL IS WITH THE BARE HANDS
@@CaptGizmo01 I'm an industrial painter. We take many precautions in the trade. A DIY project is probably not going to kill you or harm you in any way other than your Hillary voting wife not liking the smell of the finish in the house for a month.
@@CaptGizmo01 alright mr England trained gunsmith
I had a rough SKS stock I had sitting in the corner somebody gave me. I have never done any kind of wood finishing. I did this guy's method with Tru-Oil and it turned out to be the best stock I have ever seen and compliments from everybody that see's that stock.
Yep. The right way. The best way. In 1963, a group of us took a crate of 03 Springfields, c1917, out of the original wood crates, stripped the cosmoline with a solvent, steam-cleaned, dried, hand-sanded, and finished with linseed oil rubbed-in by hand. The end result was just like this video shows.
I have a rough and weathered, left-in-the-barn-too-long, Ruger 10-22 Sporter stock that is going to get this same treatment. It will take some time, but will look great.
I just wanted to thank you for your video. Bought myself a new walnut stock for my garand and really took my time watching your video, maybe 100 times, and now I'm down to my last coat. I have never seen stocks more beautiful than yours and I feel honored to have watched a master craftsman at work.
He's the man - for sure :-)
+nanernose I'm doing the same on a Boyd's walnut stock for my Garand and even after coat #1 the walnut looks fantastic! Simple process and sparing oil is the key that Kurt has found and perfected for a beautiful gun stock finish - thanks to Kurt & TiborasaurusRex!
A true craftsmen , great work ---- now dump the smokes, we want you around for a long time .
Thank you for making some of the trade secrets a bit less secret. Great stuff.
Now I know what goes into making a nice gun. This was truly needed. Thanks
My cookie stained shotgun stock came out great, I only used 1/2 cup of coffee and 16 Keebler M&M cookies. The wife loves it, always smells great too.
Ryan Joyal Glad it worked out for you...stay tuned for my tutorial on a cotton candy finish.
I read this content before the end of the video and was so confused
After listening the master, I will apply those techniques to my new K31. Thank you for the sharing!
Great video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the world.
This video could send me to sleep and that is a compliment of the highest order. Wow this is soothing
Beautiful. Work of art
Excellent! Thanks Rex.
I'm restoring an 1861 Bridesberg that had been Sporterized way way back and this is exactly the information I needed. Thanks!
Thank you for this! Going to try your technique tomorrow!
Loved the coffee chocolate chip cookie finish! Yum! Excellent video.
Great method used on my last 2 stocks took a while but great finish thanks for posting.
I just started refinishing the stock of my Springfield 87a using this method. I’m on day 3 and it looks incredible and smooth as silk.
I've heard many people describe this technique but this is the first video I've seen showing it. I've tried it now and the results speak for themselves, much better than the brush oil on, wait and brush off technique. Excellent video thank you.
Thanks Tibo appreciated. I am going to do this on my Thomson 50 cal stock. Please keep making this kind of content.
Very informative video. Thanks.
Wish I had seen this technique years ago ... such great information.
Great looking Stocks!!!
Don B thanks
I really enjoyed your video. I have a Remington 510 target master. It was given to me last year after sitting in a gun safe for about 40 years. It was a shame to look at. Thanks to your video it looks a whole lot better! Thank you, Semper Fi!
Glad I found y’all, I’m gonna do this to my Yugo sks stock
Coffee stain wood with cookies!!!! Nice video sir. Thanks for sharing!
Youre amazing, you got hands of a angel
I just started this process on my new (to me) Garand stock. It is looking so good already. I think I will do this to my very old and beaten up Winchester model 1904.
Awesome! Thanks for the great knowledge and I'll make sure to use the cookie crumb method 👍🤣
Brilliant man
What an awesome guy.
The end part of this video is the funniest thing ever it’s worth watching.
Wow, now that's grade a American craftsmanship. That kind of work would go into a show piece rifle or a pass down to your son type rifle. Beautiful.
Just taking down an old CZ 452 stock which had coat after coat of stain and gunk.... close to wood now but the last stains are being stubborn. Great video and one that I have book marked for future reference.
Very helpful, thank you Kurt.
I just inherited a Lakefield-Mossberg 500 from a family member, I am assuming it is maybe from the 1980s. The stock has the manufacturer varnish and is a bit chipped, so I am hoping to refinish it over the winter but definitely want something matte, or matte as possible, so it doesn't shine in the blind.
Will definitely be employing some of these tips. My shooting partner has a beautiful Winchester semi-auto from the late 50s that he redid years ago with only gun oil and it has such a beautiful, dark, matte finish, the kind of look I'm going for.
I like the look of that door behind him..
Mark Chichester ..one drop of lindseed and 2years of handrubbin
that was the first thing i noticed whenever he had the stocks against the door too
very informative thank you
nice video. I just cut a shotgun stock from a block of walnut and found your video very helpful. thanks!
Love the Krag.!
wow im going to refinish my stocks with food and drinks to bring out the colors that's a good 1
Thanks a lot for sharing this revival 'till detail-method!
It actually exactly the same as doing body work on on car. I can’t wait to do this myself!
I bet scissors dull up pretty quickly when your cutting sandpaper. Thank you for your time and efforts. :)
Your ashes, your ashes......
update, just watched again and it's sinking in, thank's so interesting.
I know this is an old video, but if you get some extra pieces of scrap wood or a damaged stock, I'd actually love to see how brushing black coffee into the raw wood would affect the finish. Obviously you're the expert, but I'd imagine you'd finish your sanding, brush black coffee into the raw sanded wood, let completely dry, maybe do a couple of coats, and then oil like normal. Maybe experiment with different roasts? Sumatra vs blonde vs espresso (Made in an espresso machine, of course, not the 'espresso' beans).
I have a Savage Mk2 .22LR bolt in wood that I just am not in love with the finish on and wouldn't be entirely dismissive of the possibility of some coffee black marbling in the refinished product, but I'm too chicken to just wing it.
My kind of guys, Thanks
Would you want to sand the entire length of the stock then add oil, or do it in small sections at a time? My thinking is if you sand the entire length, the more you handle it the more saw dust will fall off and won't seal the wood as well. Thanks for this series! It is awesome.
AHH tx so much just learned my past mistakes i made.
Any addition thoughts on finishing those wood composite stocks? I seem to be constantly hitting rough grain edges no matter how much I sand it.
Thank you for this very informative video! Question...do you apply the BLO to the inside of the action cuts and barrel channel as well or something else in there?
I want to finish my Baikal single shot this way! Russian Beech... beautiful!
Hello kurt, can I do this method but use ballistol balsin oil or walnutoil instead?
Did you seal the butt before you installed the recoil pad? Do you also make sure to seal the areas inside where the action and barrel rest? I've watched wood floor guys do the same thing you do with the dust but they save up dust and sprinkle it on with the stain. Would it benefit you to use dust along with the oil on the first coat?
I love that he’s smoking a cigarette with linseed oil on his hands.
Very nice, Kurt! Like everyone who finishes gunstocks, I'm still looking for that "holy grail" of finishes, but keep coming back to Tru-Oil time after time. Got any tips for getting an authentic finish on a revolutionary war-era musket?
I see some tru oil on your bench....what projects do you like to use that on? Could you use LS oil for the rich color tone and then seal with tru oil for a bit better protection?
That’s just great advice... got me a 22yr old Zoli 12gauge and the stock is a little dry... going to do this... so the checkering use a toothbrush?
Thanks in advance.
I LITTERALY just blew on my screen right before he said, "Now notice," he's not blowing away the sawdust. I am n00bed, good instructions!
I've heard of Kava instant coffee being used to stain wood. I've used goth purple hair dye to make faux purpleheart
Hi TiborasaurusRex, I see that you leave the butt plate/recoil pad on while you put on the linseed oil. My question is, how do you get the finish off the recoil pad when you're done?
I followed these steps to the T. 5 coats of boiled linseed oil on a chinese "Chu" wood SKS stock. You have any tips, or anything I should know before I put on a low gloss polyurethane finish?
Now can I darken my already existing linseed oil stock by lightly sanding and applying more linseed oil?
How would you compare the boiled linseed oil to tru oil ?
Thoughts on pine tarring a stock?
It’s like I’m watching myself finishing stocks, except I suck at instructing people. I tried teaching, but I don’t know why I have zero patience to teach. I hate to repeat myself, it’s so bad that I’m annoyed just listening to this guy asking the same questions. Maybe it’s because I already know the people who ask me questions.... meaning that, if it’s strangers, I probably would have patience.
Is there a difference in the boiled linseed oil?? I have the sunny side brand available where I’m at.
What's the advantage of linseed oil over tung oil. I've got the Max version of this rifle and I'm new to this sort of thing. Thanks!
Can we use linseed oil or boiled linseed or on new gun stocks
I have a question. When applying oil to the checkering, should it be thinned to avoid tackiness?
Of my rifle action has been glass bedded and i remove the action to sand and refinish the stock will i need to have it glass bedded again when i reinstall the action? Assume i do no sanding/scrapeing on the inner part of stock
How does Birchwood Casey Tru-oil compare to boiled linseed oil for finishing?
Hello sir, great videos!! Instructional. entertaining and pleasant!! Plus you have one of those voices that one can listen for hours and whatever you say gets done hehehe
So here's my question; any difference in application between the boiled and the raw linseed oil? Thanks ahead !!
Great video. What grid sand paper you use to sand the oil in?
Anders from Sweden
Sounds like John Goodman
What are your thoughts on Watco "Danish" oil?
Cookies and coffee laminate to draw the bears in.
Any opinions about adding beeswax to act as a drier?
I emailed you about working on a Krag stock for me but, never received an answer? Can I wet sand with tongue oil?
where is Kurt are you just sharing his video, I have some questions for him
I have two Turkish walnut air rifle stocks I am going to be doing.
I made a mix of red alkanet root & turpentine, waited a month 1/2 then added the boiled linseed oil and that's been sitting gees three months , this is all knew to me, I am using this blend from some one else guide..and mix ratio.
Question.
I wanted to know what could I add to another batch of boiled linseed oil to do the other stock to make the tiger stripe pop and jump out the best, any tint suggestions. I have yet another stock that's walnut probably non Turkish with a lot of tiger striping and I just want it to look the best and pop.
in your video @ 1533 shows your rifle stocks in the case what color is that, just brownish tone it was hard to see the way the videos were shot on those.
love the long in depth videos
Mike
This has been a very helpful video. My question is could you use BLO over a stock which has been cleaned sanded and restained?
And if stained can you use the sand oil mix ?
What about coloured laminate stocks. I have a laminate stock from Browning that is varying shades of tan grey and green. It was on the A Bolt Camo Stalker in the late eighties I'm worried sanding will spread different colors of sawdust to areas of different color.
Smoke.. what's this guy smokin a doob? :)
Doing it with pure Tung oil. Hope it works out well!
Rex, not sure if you are still in contact with Kurt, his FB page doesn't seem to have much action in terms of recent posts, but I was wondering if you could pass on a question to him. I have some larger projects, furniture actually, chairs and tables, that I would love to continue using this finish on. I've followed his steps to refinish/revive numerous wooden stocks since I first saw this video c. 2014 when you first posted it. Everyone who handles those rifles and shotguns remarks "man, what kind of finish is this, it's so soft and natural(or similar to those words)". However, with the volume of projects that I would like to use this technique on, including some rather large, flat surfaces, I'm wondering if there is a way to use a power sander with a leather pad to simulate the hand-rubbed part of the process? I have made my own DIY pads for other processes before, using both random orbital, linear-action sanders and regular vibratory sanders to grind/polish glass. I can't see why a natural, soft leather pad couldn't replace the manual action(and heat) of repetitive hand motion. If you'd be able to pass this question along to Kurt, it would be much appreciated. To Him be the glory, forever and ever, Amen. God speed brother!
How do I remove a butt plate with no apparent fasteners on a mannlicher stock?
Don’t particularly enjoy guns but I can certainly appreciate wood expertise and a well done video
What grain sandpaper?
Great series Rex....Does Kurt recomend the use of Boiled linseed oil for laminate stocks also?
Roger McNutt If it is wood, yes.
Did he mention anything at all about disposing of any rags etc with the linseed oil on them? Great video and those finishes were stunning.
YouGoobers Linseed oil comes from the flax plant...so no harm done anywhere. :-)