I came here to say the same thing! (I had to click on the thumbnail TWICE. When the “Sky Wagon” graphics began, I thought UA-cam had glitched, then heard his distinctive accent. Airplanes, guns, and a Jaguar convertible.
What a great job my friend cut down a black walnut tree last week and I saved a nice long piece and told him I'm going to make stock out of that lo and behold today I see this video I will probably have to watch it again I have to cut down the wood closer to size and then let it dry some before I start thank you
If you have a fresh tree, cut it directly in the center of the rings in half, longways, then cut three inches below that to give you the slab that will dry to 8% moisture to make the stock out of. You can cut out the very big rough shape of the stock to lessen the amount of wood that has to dry. Keep it thick to allow for warping and dry it slowly for several years. Seal the endgrain with wax or similar to prevent splitting.
Such beautiful work and great to see another dimension of Mark! Airplanes and firearms do seem to attract a lot of the same folks. But hey Mark all through both videos I was looking forward to seeing you fire the rifle at the end. Great work though!
Beautiful work Mark, the stock is absolutely gorgeous and your presentation in both videos is very educational and pleasant to watch ... thanks for sharing!
Oh man. I didn’t realize you were a gun guy too. I discovered your airplane videos recently. I’m not a pilot yet but have been dreaming about it my whole life. I want a taildragger. But I am a gun owner big time with a brand new Winchester Model 70 Maple Super grade .270 win. And now I see you sanding a beautiful black walnut stock. I like your channel even more now. I don’t live far away. I’m in Ukiah, CA towards the coast. If I finally can afford to go ahead with my dream of flying I might come visit you. I grew up in a walnut orchard by the way. My parents have owned it here in Mendocino County since 1971. We rip out old black walnut root balls all the time and sell them. From the dying trees.
@@TheEmpire85 From what I understand from the guys that bought them from my parents is that a lot of it gets turned into steering wheels and dash boards in fancy cars. Like a high end Cadillacs and if it’s big enough into gun stocks. My parents got $3000 each for a few of the huge root balls and trunk up to the graphed area.
Very nice result! I also like your little anecdote of how you started making gun stocks. I made my first aged 6 or 7: a boy in my street had gotten an expensive toy gun, that looked very real, since it was made of beechwood and blued metal. I asked my parents if I could have one for my birthday but no, it was far too expensive. So I moved to copying it and did a pretty good job, admittedly with some assistance. Soon I made toy guns for the whole neighborhood, at one time even a Vickers machinegun on a tripod. There I stopped, frustrated at not getting the water mantle right with actual flutes. Good memories though🙂.
Beautiful stock and great video. Love the story of how you started. Have you ever done any checkering on your stocks? With your skills and attention to detail I’m sure it would be over the top. Thx for sharing the video!
I've tried checkering on other bits of wood and it never works out like I see on You-Tube. I'm worried that I get to the very end of making a stock and then ruin it with some bad checkering.
Beautiful work! I’m a sucker for rim fire riffles and now that I’ve seen this I’ll be on the hunt for actions that need new stocks. You have the skills we would like to see transplanting into our great state of Texas if you ever decide to join the exodus!
Trouble is that it took 4 days filming to make that one. My Plane videos are about an hour and an few hours editing. The woodworking is a hobby and I do not have the time, but I'd love to do that.
This video has been incredibly helpful in helping me decide NOT to take this project on. This was incredibly satisfying and you are a master of your trade, but I am going to enjoy this from a distance only for a while!
@@skywagonuniversity5023 Thanks, yeah it is definitely something I think I can do to a reasonable level if I spend the time on it. Just with 43 other unfinished things on my plate I need to try to finish at least one before taking on a handful more (insider tip: I will never actually implement this concept) That said, I've just stripped down a very old generic springer and will see what it's like to give the stock a spruce up.. dipping my toe! Great vids, and great channel btw.
Excellent work sir! Tru-Oil is my favorite by far, mostly because it's beautiful, durable, and harder to scratch than other finishes. I recently discovered something even more scratch resistant: Gorilla glue original foaming urethane glue. Since it foams, the wood must be sealed well, just as you do in the video. For the final coat, rub on very small amounts of Gorilla glue with fingertips, but it has to be vanishingly thin or it will foam. I use it on knife handles and other small items than need to be scratch proof. It works on metal and some plastics too! Just know that using it on large items like rifle stocks are probably not practical, but I think if anyone could make it work, you could!
@@skywagonuniversity5023 I used it on mahogany and walnut kitchen knife and spatula handles, and hand wash them. When you try a sample, let it dry for 24 hours then try to scratch it. As a glue, it's not so great, as a varnish, it's bullet proof but only on very dense or sealed wood, and only on small items like knife handles and pistol grips. Maybe a rifle stock if you're super-patient, but I'm not. Remember, go vanishingly thin or you'll get bubbles and streaks.
Beautiful! I watched both videos, and must say ypu showef a great desl of skill and artistry. There is mothing better than the combination of blued steel and nicely figured walnut. I grew up with guns and airplanes (first flight with my Dad at 4 years old, nuys about flying evet since), and they are still my favorite toys. Glad to see a fellow enthusiast of both. BTW, I refrr to my guns as my art collection, your stocks certainly qualify for that description. Keep the great airplane videos coming, and some more firearm content woulf also be appreciated.
Watched both videos tonight. Thank you very much for sharing your process. Not only how you do it but also why you do what do. I will receive two vintage Sako rifles shortly with beautiful actions but poor looking stocks, so I will definitely try to make a couple of stocks that make the actions justice. Cheers from Sweden.
Thank you for watching. My first rifle and the rifle I shot my first deer with was a Sako Forester .243 with a Pecar 3-9 x 40 scope on it. In Scotland. I was 11.
I’ll let you in on a little secret when it comes to precision inletting. You may already know this trick, but here goes. Use an oil lamp and use the flame to smoke the metal parts. The layer of smoke is only a couple of thousandths of an inch thick at best. Not as messy as the grease. Just found your video and saw that you like flying as well. Guns and flying, say no more to get a sub from me. I look forward to your other videos!
As a boy, I stripped and refinished the stock of a .22 single shot that my uncle gave to me - that my grandmother had bought him as a boy of about 12 or so. It looked like it had been dipped in varnish stain and hung out to dry, so I just thought I'd give refinishing a try, having read some article somewhere. I stripped, reshaped, and sanded, sanded, sanded. I don't know what kind of wood it was - perhaps some generic fruitwood about as light as maple - so the end result was not the dark, walnutty color it started as. I "whiskered" the stock - sanded smooth, then dampened to raise the grain, and sanded again with progressively finer sandpaper. I must have sanded and resanded 25 times before it was dead smooth. As I recall, the final finish was with pumice - probably unnecessarily picky, but it was what they used in the article, so I followed suit. It certainly was smooth as glass when I finished. I still have it, some 60+ years later, and it's still as smooth as the day I finished it. This video sure brought back memories of that first experiment in woodworking. Beautiful job you did, and very informative video.
Thank you. It is very rewarding to make something like that. If you screw it up you chuck it away and start another one on another chunk of wood. Everyone can do it if they try.
Mark I was hoping you would do a few clips on your other passion. These were great! Now lets show some whales😊 See you on the 4th. I will bring over a couple guitar’s
"Keep going till you see no errors at all." That is about the point where I accidently bump it on something with a hard sharp corner in my garage! Haha
I was wondering if there was a type of black walnut without the small holes in the grain. I wanted to make a stock with black walnut but i knew that there is small holes in the grain of wood for black walnut so i thought that black walnut would not be good for stocks. Love the video❤
All wood has grain pores for where the tree used to get water etc. Some are smaller than others. Black walnut is a beautiful wood. You just have to fill the grain with grain filler. If you want superb excellent walnut it costs $2,000 for a flawless blank that has been air dried for 10 years. Those will have smaller pores because of the drying.
It does if it's not cut at the exact angle of the grain otherwise how does water get up the trunk to the leaves. The grain pores are the phloem and Xylem
Super Video... Mesmerising Skill sir.. I am just starting out on a similar journey but with an old springer air rifle and my question is this, Should I ensure that the barrel mechanism does not touch the barrel channel as you mentioned? Or is it different for Air Rifles? Kind regards, Dave.
The barrel should never touch the wood. You should be able to slip a bit of paper under the barrel. If it is a break barrel air rifle, of course then it can't anyway because you will have a big slot under there but it might be a precharge or a BSA Airsporter or something. Recoiless air rifles it can touch wherever it wants.
@@skywagonuniversity5023 Thank you for your prompt and detailed reply. Most appreciated. My air rifle in question is a Webley Longbow. The barrel itself starts after the stock. but the spring cylinder assembly definitely shows hard contact with the stock either side of the cocking arm. Is this some that I should sand so as to leave a slight gap?
@@davekelly7184 Dave. The spring cylinder should have full contact with the stock. It needs as much energy transfer as possible to the wood from the steel. Not the barrel at all. Look at the old stock.
And now you're making videos about one of my OTHER favorite things?!?!! If you start making videos about 3d printing bagpipes like I do for my business, I'm moving to the People's Republic of California, and I work for you!
I just refinished a walnut stock on an almost 40 year old knight muzzle loader with true oil. Used almost the same process once i completely stripped it to bare wood. Only difference was i did 3 coats of pure tung oil first sanding in between to fill the pores. And then 3 coats of tru oil. Looks flawless now. Hard to believe they were hiding such a gorgeous piece of wood under all that old ugly orange finish.
Nice job on that stock. She’s a beauty. Did you bed the action? If so, what technique and material did you use to do that? Yes, I realize it’s just a .22. Just figured if you got 10 stocks under your belt you’d have a preference and reasoning. I’m getting ready to try my 1st stock and watching you on this video helps. Thanks
I did not bed it because it is a 22 but it was a perfect fit. I bed other bigger calibers with recoil tangs etc. I use a bedding compound with a release on the metal so I can get it out after it has set.
@@skywagonuniversity5023 The walnut stock took on the appearance of a big game - maybe even dangerous game- safari rifle in a 22 wmrf; how ironic is that- kudo's!
Can u take a video of your remingtom 7000, i am going to make that kind of stock, and it will help me alot to see how it looks, especially pistol grip part, i want to know where it should be round and what shape should i make flat ... if u will have time to make video of your remington 700, just want to see details of that stock, i liked it when i saw in the begging of this video...
Excellent wood finishing technique regardless of the object, it could be furniture or any fine joinery. Again its clear your personal interest to understand why a certain step is required and what is really going in to the woodgrain as the finishing progresses gives such a result, similar to understanding the titbits of information about a Mooney or Cessna, well done.
Stunning. How many hours do you have into one? I’m sure you could draw a pretty penny for one but the amount of time you have into one might equate to minimum wage.
Buy some seasoned walnut online from anywhere. 2.5 inches thick and 35 inches long and 7 inches at the stock end at least and 3 at the forend at least. It MUST be dry.
When I open new bottle of Tru Oil, I don't peel off the foil seal. Just poke a tine hole in it with a pin. You just have to squeeze out what you need. With the cap on it never dries out.
But as you use it and the level lowers the air that is in there oxidizes it. I put a pebble or a nut in there to keep it full and have less air in there.
Beautiful work. Can this also apply to colored laminate stocks. I have a Browning camo laminate stock from.the late eighties that I want to refinish. However I am worried about screwing up the tan, green and brown colors. The Birchwood Casey sealer is amber yellowish. Is there a clear sealer I can use or am I worrying to much about the yellowish color of the sealer. Also what is a good product to use once sealed? Again Birchwood Casey's truoil is yellowish. I just tried the sealer on a stock from an old shotgun and at step one. Its stained walnut and my next step is the steel wool and subsequent coats of the sealer. I don't have to worry of yellowish sealers with the walnut color though
The buttplate was the one that came off the old stock but you can get them cheap from any gun shop. They normally have a box of old stock bits that you can root through. You really need one on it very early on in the making of the stock as a shape guide.
If I were to try and make a stock for a 7mm rifle. And I’m wanting to make sure it shoots accurate up to lengthy distance’s (such as 600-800 yards) how would I make sure I didn’t mess something up to where it wouldn’t fire correctly?
Not a fan of Birchwood Casey finish, very very expensive for such small quantities. That said, very hard to argue with the results. You did good. Very good. You very close to the home office of Daly's. They make a product called Benite that hardens the wood. It does change the colour (e.g. raw mahogany turns almost a deep purple - very nice if that is a result you want/like). This can very handy for hunting rifles as it makes the wood very tough (from my limited experience, walnut is not all that hard). Daly's also makes grain fillers (neutral and stained). Good stuff - but hard for me to source..... :(
I used tru oil on my first , and seemed awful expensive. After I used BLO . Seemed easier to get a finish with tru oil. Now on most of my woodworking I use OB shine juice . Need a power buffer to get it really nice , but it's goof proof and gives a heck of a finish
Everyone sells everything on Ebay. I got a beautiful blank, 50 years old, Walnut for $100. for a Remington 700. The one in the video that I show as a finished version.
I bed the bigger calibers after the barrel/action channel is cut and it fits well. Before I finalize the forend and finish. Remember to use the release agent.
@@skywagonuniversity5023 there are some videos here on UA-cam that explain the process. I think it would fill the pores faster than the sealer/filler with similar results. I’m going to refinish an old enfield using your technique. Might experiment and try CA glue on the smaller pieces
Nice to see someone who isn’t worried about rubber gloves, coveralls, and all the other safety gear. Beautiful work and beautiful walnut.
You have to be bare handed to get the friction and the feel. Rubber gloves would never work.
Yes! Guns and airplanes go quite well together! Bravo!
agreed, airplanes and guns two of my favorite hobbies😀
I came here to say the same thing! (I had to click on the thumbnail TWICE. When the “Sky Wagon” graphics began, I thought UA-cam had glitched, then heard his distinctive accent. Airplanes, guns, and a Jaguar convertible.
What a great job my friend cut down a black walnut tree last week and I saved a nice long piece and told him I'm going to make stock out of that lo and behold today I see this video I will probably have to watch it again I have to cut down the wood closer to size and then let it dry some before I start thank you
If you have a fresh tree, cut it directly in the center of the rings in half, longways, then cut three inches below that to give you the slab that will dry to 8% moisture to make the stock out of. You can cut out the very big rough shape of the stock to lessen the amount of wood that has to dry. Keep it thick to allow for warping and dry it slowly for several years. Seal the endgrain with wax or similar to prevent splitting.
@@skywagonuniversity5023 thank you for the info again that was a beautiful job
From birch wood to black walnut is a big up take,nice piece of work.
Where was the Birch.
@@skywagonuniversity5023 the other stock looked like birch wood
@@Moraprecisionreloader OH, No, Also walnut. Different finish.
Simply beautiful and I totally understand the feeling of finishing that beautiful wood. Thank you.
All that work just to get to the best part which is putting on the finish.
Such beautiful work and great to see another dimension of Mark! Airplanes and firearms do seem to attract a lot of the same folks. But hey Mark all through both videos I was looking forward to seeing you fire the rifle at the end. Great work though!
Sorry I didn't fire it. It would have just been a 22 going pop, not that impressive though.
what a gorgeous piece of walnut
you need to go into a frame of mind in order to do this work. A frame of mind that many can not achieve, its just poetry. Pure poetry
Not a lot of people know that, but it is very true and very important and hard to describe.
What frame of mind? Can you elaborate???
this is such a relaxing video to watch I really love the look of that wood
Thanks. That is the best part, putting on the finish.
Too relaxing. Almost fell asleep a couple of times and not in the boring way. Awesome piece.
You Sir, did spectacular work on this!
Thank you kindly!
Great Video. Appreciate you taking the time to create this.
Glad it was helpful!
Beautiful work Mark, the stock is absolutely gorgeous and your presentation in both videos is very educational and pleasant to watch ... thanks for sharing!
Glad you enjoyed it
Nicely done, Sir. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks.
Wow. My 7x57 needs a new stock. Thanks for the advice in these two videos. You've inspired me to make my own. Thank you!
That's great. Give it a go, It is easier than you think. Take a bit at a time.
Oh man. I didn’t realize you were a gun guy too. I discovered your airplane videos recently. I’m not a pilot yet but have been dreaming about it my whole life. I want a taildragger. But I am a gun owner big time with a brand new Winchester Model 70 Maple Super grade .270 win. And now I see you sanding a beautiful black walnut stock. I like your channel even more now. I don’t live far away. I’m in Ukiah, CA towards the coast. If I finally can afford to go ahead with my dream of flying I might come visit you. I grew up in a walnut orchard by the way. My parents have owned it here in Mendocino County since 1971. We rip out old black walnut root balls all the time and sell them. From the dying trees.
Come and visit anytime and bring a huge dry walnut root ball. :-)
What do people usually make with the giant root balls? Tables?
@@TheEmpire85 From what I understand from the guys that bought them from my parents is that a lot of it gets turned into steering wheels and dash boards in fancy cars. Like a high end Cadillacs and if it’s big enough into gun stocks. My parents got $3000 each for a few of the huge root balls and trunk up to the graphed area.
Wow, that is one really beautiful riflestock my friend...a labor of love thats for sure and it shows....KEEP ON ROCKING IT!..Skywagon University.....
Beautiful!
Thank you.
Awesome job. Very inspired. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for showing me the kind of finish that I was looking for, God bless.
Excellent work.👍👍👍🇺🇸🙏🏽😎✌🏻
Thanks 👍
Outstanding !! congrats on a build and gorgeous finish to the stock.
Thank you! Cheers!
Beautiful! Looking forward to applying these techniques to my projects.
Have fun!
Absolutely beautiful wonderful job enjoyed both videos! So amazing seeing a chunk of wood turning into someone so beautiful. Bravo buddy
Thank you very much!
Nice work. Beautiful rifle
Thanks.
Beautiful work!
Thank you very much!
Come up a treat mate, lovely job😊
Thank you! Cheers!
Beautifully done !
Thanks.
Beautiful piece of wood. Great work!
Excellent Craftsmanship, mate.
Very nice result! I also like your little anecdote of how you started making gun stocks. I made my first aged 6 or 7: a boy in my street had gotten an expensive toy gun, that looked very real, since it was made of beechwood and blued metal. I asked my parents if I could have one for my birthday but no, it was far too expensive. So I moved to copying it and did a pretty good job, admittedly with some assistance. Soon I made toy guns for the whole neighborhood, at one time even a Vickers machinegun on a tripod. There I stopped, frustrated at not getting the water mantle right with actual flutes. Good memories though🙂.
Got any photos of any of them?
@@skywagonuniversity5023 No, unfortunately not. Little photos were taken as such back then, and not one of these ‘guns’ survived.
Amazing... thanks for sharing this video ❤️
Glad you liked it
Looks really good!
Thanks.
Beautiful work. Very attractive grain. Great job!
Thank you very much!
Beautiful stock and great video. Love the story of how you started. Have you ever done any checkering on your stocks? With your skills and attention to detail I’m sure it would be over the top. Thx for sharing the video!
I've tried checkering on other bits of wood and it never works out like I see on You-Tube. I'm worried that I get to the very end of making a stock and then ruin it with some bad checkering.
Exelent work mate, true art
Thank you so much 😀
Loved it! Watched both the videos in a go and subbed. Love the finish and it’s so interesting to watch you work on the stock. Love and respect, sir!
Thank you very much!
That is beautiful work sir! Well done and great vid. 👌
Thank you.
Absolutely beautiful!
Yes, but how did you like the gunstock?
@@skywagonuniversity5023 I think it’s pretty awesome! Great job!
Thank you for the info have a good day
Thank you too
Beautiful work! I’m a sucker for rim fire riffles and now that I’ve seen this I’ll be on the hunt for actions that need new stocks. You have the skills we would like to see transplanting into our great state of Texas if you ever decide to join the exodus!
Stupendo super doc
Would love to see more! You could make a entire channel just on making bespoke gunstocks. Cheers, :D
Trouble is that it took 4 days filming to make that one. My Plane videos are about an hour and an few hours editing. The woodworking is a hobby and I do not have the time, but I'd love to do that.
This video has been incredibly helpful in helping me decide NOT to take this project on. This was incredibly satisfying and you are a master of your trade, but I am going to enjoy this from a distance only for a while!
You should try it. It is not as hard as you think. I'm no genius.
@@skywagonuniversity5023 Thanks, yeah it is definitely something I think I can do to a reasonable level if I spend the time on it. Just with 43 other unfinished things on my plate I need to try to finish at least one before taking on a handful more (insider tip: I will never actually implement this concept)
That said, I've just stripped down a very old generic springer and will see what it's like to give the stock a spruce up.. dipping my toe!
Great vids, and great channel btw.
Gorgeous!
Thank you! Cheers!
Excellent work sir! Tru-Oil is my favorite by far, mostly because it's beautiful, durable, and harder to scratch than other finishes. I recently discovered something even more scratch resistant: Gorilla glue original foaming urethane glue. Since it foams, the wood must be sealed well, just as you do in the video. For the final coat, rub on very small amounts of Gorilla glue with fingertips, but it has to be vanishingly thin or it will foam. I use it on knife handles and other small items than need to be scratch proof. It works on metal and some plastics too! Just know that using it on large items like rifle stocks are probably not practical, but I think if anyone could make it work, you could!
This is very interesting. I will try it on some spare bits of walnut. How waterproof is it?
@@skywagonuniversity5023 I used it on mahogany and walnut kitchen knife and spatula handles, and hand wash them. When you try a sample, let it dry for 24 hours then try to scratch it. As a glue, it's not so great, as a varnish, it's bullet proof but only on very dense or sealed wood, and only on small items like knife handles and pistol grips. Maybe a rifle stock if you're super-patient, but I'm not. Remember, go vanishingly thin or you'll get bubbles and streaks.
Beautiful! I watched both videos, and must say ypu showef a great desl of skill and artistry. There is mothing better than the combination of blued steel and nicely figured walnut. I grew up with guns and airplanes (first flight with my Dad at 4 years old, nuys about flying evet since), and they are still my favorite toys. Glad to see a fellow enthusiast of both. BTW, I refrr to my guns as my art collection, your stocks certainly qualify for that description. Keep the great airplane videos coming, and some more firearm content woulf also be appreciated.
Thank you very much.
Good work my man…👍😁
Thank you.
Wow excellent job
Thank you very much
Wow awesome job…! 🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽
Thank you!!
Bravo sir.
Thank you, Boy in the Middle.
Super nice effort, you are an accomplished craftsman. Chuck
Thank you kindly
Amazing! Very Impressive!
Thanks a lot!
Watched both videos tonight. Thank you very much for sharing your process. Not only how you do it but also why you do what do.
I will receive two vintage Sako rifles shortly with beautiful actions but poor looking stocks, so I will definitely try to make a couple of stocks that make the actions justice.
Cheers from Sweden.
Thank you for watching. My first rifle and the rifle I shot my first deer with was a Sako Forester .243 with a Pecar 3-9 x 40 scope on it. In Scotland. I was 11.
Beautiful
Beautiful.
Thank you!
Nice Volt!
I’ll let you in on a little secret when it comes to precision inletting. You may already know this trick, but here goes. Use an oil lamp and use the flame to smoke the metal parts. The layer of smoke is only a couple of thousandths of an inch thick at best. Not as messy as the grease. Just found your video and saw that you like flying as well. Guns and flying, say no more to get a sub from me. I look forward to your other videos!
Grease smoke is a good way to do it.
Was hoping to see the videos of it shooting after the new stock install
If I fired it, UA-cam would take it down,
As a boy, I stripped and refinished the stock of a .22 single shot that my uncle gave to me - that my grandmother had bought him as a boy of about 12 or so. It looked like it had been dipped in varnish stain and hung out to dry, so I just thought I'd give refinishing a try, having read some article somewhere.
I stripped, reshaped, and sanded, sanded, sanded. I don't know what kind of wood it was - perhaps some generic fruitwood about as light as maple - so the end result was not the dark, walnutty color it started as. I "whiskered" the stock - sanded smooth, then dampened to raise the grain, and sanded again with progressively finer sandpaper. I must have sanded and resanded 25 times before it was dead smooth.
As I recall, the final finish was with pumice - probably unnecessarily picky, but it was what they used in the article, so I followed suit. It certainly was smooth as glass when I finished.
I still have it, some 60+ years later, and it's still as smooth as the day I finished it. This video sure brought back memories of that first experiment in woodworking. Beautiful job you did, and very informative video.
Thank you. It is very rewarding to make something like that. If you screw it up you chuck it away and start another one on another chunk of wood. Everyone can do it if they try.
Priceless 👍
Very impressive.
Thanks.
Excellent, thank you sir
Thank you.
you should do more love the video
That video took 4 days of non-stop work. I might do something else but not very soon.
I'm about to try my own from watching your vid there's not many out there to show you how thanks@@skywagonuniversity5023
Very beautiful! Well done 🙂
Mark I was hoping you would do a few clips on your other passion. These were great! Now lets show some whales😊 See you on the 4th. I will bring over a couple guitar’s
Hi Jon, Whales are a long process. I might do one. Text or call me to remind me what is happening on the 4th. :-)
Beauty !
Thanks.
"Keep going till you see no errors at all." That is about the point where I accidently bump it on something with a hard sharp corner in my garage! Haha
I've done that too.
other guides I've read used the tru-oil as the filler for the sanding step as well. one also recommended adding spirits to the oil to thin it down.
You can use many things that fill the grain.
Masterpiece!
Thank you.
It looks wonderful, You should glass bed the action in it.
I bed the higher power rifles. This on fitted very well and is only a 22.
I was wondering if there was a type of black walnut without the small holes in the grain. I wanted to make a stock with black walnut but i knew that there is small holes in the grain of wood for black walnut so i thought that black walnut would not be good for stocks. Love the video❤
All wood has grain pores for where the tree used to get water etc. Some are smaller than others. Black walnut is a beautiful wood. You just have to fill the grain with grain filler. If you want superb excellent walnut it costs $2,000 for a flawless blank that has been air dried for 10 years. Those will have smaller pores because of the drying.
@@skywagonuniversity5023 Cherry Wood has no pores only at the end of the piece where it's cut
It does if it's not cut at the exact angle of the grain otherwise how does water get up the trunk to the leaves. The grain pores are the phloem and Xylem
Super Video... Mesmerising Skill sir.. I am just starting out on a similar journey but with an old springer air rifle and my question is this, Should I ensure that the barrel mechanism does not touch the barrel channel as you mentioned? Or is it different for Air Rifles?
Kind regards,
Dave.
The barrel should never touch the wood. You should be able to slip a bit of paper under the barrel. If it is a break barrel air rifle, of course then it can't anyway because you will have a big slot under there but it might be a precharge or a BSA Airsporter or something. Recoiless air rifles it can touch wherever it wants.
My fist few stocks were for air-rifles. I used to write for Airgun World.
@@skywagonuniversity5023 Thank you for your prompt and detailed reply. Most appreciated. My air rifle in question is a Webley Longbow. The barrel itself starts after the stock. but the spring cylinder assembly definitely shows hard contact with the stock either side of the cocking arm. Is this some that I should sand so as to leave a slight gap?
@@davekelly7184 Dave. The spring cylinder should have full contact with the stock. It needs as much energy transfer as possible to the wood from the steel. Not the barrel at all. Look at the old stock.
@@skywagonuniversity5023 Thank you for the clarification.... Keep up the fantastic work sir.
And now you're making videos about one of my OTHER favorite things?!?!! If you start making videos about 3d printing bagpipes like I do for my business, I'm moving to the People's Republic of California, and I work for you!
OMG, I just bought a 3D Printer for bagpipe printing. ;-)
@@skywagonuniversity5023 alright, I'll see you Monday. Business casual ok? Lol!
I have made 3 guns stocks and used same oil and filler
I just refinished a walnut stock on an almost 40 year old knight muzzle loader with true oil. Used almost the same process once i completely stripped it to bare wood. Only difference was i did 3 coats of pure tung oil first sanding in between to fill the pores. And then 3 coats of tru oil. Looks flawless now. Hard to believe they were hiding such a gorgeous piece of wood under all that old ugly orange finish.
It is very rewarding to do what you just did.
Very beautiful black walnut stock well done very nice did you make the stock or did you buy it partially done or was that the original gun stock
You saw part two. Part one is the total building of the stock from a solid chunk of wood.
Note to self; stop complaining when I buy a 500USD extra fancy finished walnut M1 stock.
Ha, Thanks.
Complaining about what?
bravo well done . although I prefer a traditional linseed oil finish as it stands the test of time
Nice job on that stock. She’s a beauty. Did you bed the action? If so, what technique and material did you use to do that? Yes, I realize it’s just a .22. Just figured if you got 10 stocks under your belt you’d have a preference and reasoning. I’m getting ready to try my 1st stock and watching you on this video helps. Thanks
I did not bed it because it is a 22 but it was a perfect fit. I bed other bigger calibers with recoil tangs etc. I use a bedding compound with a release on the metal so I can get it out after it has set.
If you listen to the walnut really carefully it's saying, " Now lets go get those nutty squirrels".
Yes, that's irony. That's revenge.
@@skywagonuniversity5023 The walnut stock took on the appearance of a big game - maybe even dangerous game- safari rifle in a 22 wmrf; how ironic is that- kudo's!
No checkering?? I find that checkering allows a much better handhold of the rifle. A very good video without a pattern maker.
I have not risked checkering yet. I do have a guy on UA-cam that very generously offered to Checker a stock and I have yet to send him one though.
Can u take a video of your remingtom 7000, i am going to make that kind of stock, and it will help me alot to see how it looks, especially pistol grip part, i want to know where it should be round and what shape should i make flat ... if u will have time to make video of your remington 700, just want to see details of that stock, i liked it when i saw in the begging of this video...
I'll send you an e-mail Whats your e-mail.
Excellent wood finishing technique regardless of the object, it could be furniture or any fine joinery. Again its clear your personal interest to understand why a certain step is required and what is really going in to the woodgrain as the finishing progresses gives such a result, similar to understanding the titbits of information about a Mooney or Cessna, well done.
Thank you very much!
Quit Beautiful, you are talented, maybe you should go into the custom business I'd love to have an identical stock for a .270 remington 721 bravo.
Thank you. One every now and then is enough for me.
Stunning. How many hours do you have into one? I’m sure you could draw a pretty penny for one but the amount of time you have into one might equate to minimum wage.
It's four full days dawn to dusk to make one like that.
You cant put a price on the work you do… masterful.
Thanks.
Where can i get the blank stock love your work
Buy some seasoned walnut online from anywhere. 2.5 inches thick and 35 inches long and 7 inches at the stock end at least and 3 at the forend at least. It MUST be dry.
Savage Mark II Super Grade XD
yes. 22 Mag
When I open new bottle of Tru Oil, I don't peel off the foil seal. Just poke a tine hole in it with a pin. You just have to squeeze out what you need. With the cap on it never dries out.
But as you use it and the level lowers the air that is in there oxidizes it. I put a pebble or a nut in there to keep it full and have less air in there.
Beautiful work. Can this also apply to colored laminate stocks. I have a Browning camo laminate stock from.the late eighties that I want to refinish. However I am worried about screwing up the tan, green and brown colors. The Birchwood Casey sealer is amber yellowish. Is there a clear sealer I can use or am I worrying to much about the yellowish color of the sealer. Also what is a good product to use once sealed? Again Birchwood Casey's truoil is yellowish. I just tried the sealer on a stock from an old shotgun and at step one. Its stained walnut and my next step is the steel wool and subsequent coats of the sealer. I don't have to worry of yellowish sealers with the walnut color though
I have never tried anything other than what I did there except aerosol spray polyurethane satin.
That’s really nice how much would it cost to buy a piece like that of you
Do you mean what would I charge to make a gunstock for you. It is hard because I need the gun here. I have never made one for someone else.
Please post some more stock finishing videos
But I do not have any stocks that need to be finished.
Wish I could afford to do that but my labor rates are just too high. 😁
I'm not sure what you mean about labor rates being too high, you do it your self and it takes about an hour.
Amazing stuff, Where did you find that butt pad? I want the same one for the stock I plan to make for my ruger
The buttplate was the one that came off the old stock but you can get them cheap from any gun shop. They normally have a box of old stock bits that you can root through. You really need one on it very early on in the making of the stock as a shape guide.
Very very nice job..just need some white inlay with the ebony to match the butt plate
I wanted the strength of a wood to wood join. That does look good though.
If I were to try and make a stock for a 7mm rifle. And I’m wanting to make sure it shoots accurate up to lengthy distance’s (such as 600-800 yards) how would I make sure I didn’t mess something up to where it wouldn’t fire correctly?
You just have to make sure that no wood touches where it shouldn't on the action. Copy the old stock.
Love the stock verry beautiful. But no checkoring
I can't checker and do not want to ruin a stock that took so long to make. I do not have the right tools.
@@skywagonuniversity5023 fair enough
Not a fan of Birchwood Casey finish, very very expensive for such small quantities. That said, very hard to argue with the results. You did good. Very good.
You very close to the home office of Daly's. They make a product called Benite that hardens the wood. It does change the colour (e.g. raw mahogany turns almost a deep purple - very nice if that is a result you want/like). This can very handy for hunting rifles as it makes the wood very tough (from my limited experience, walnut is not all that hard). Daly's also makes grain fillers (neutral and stained). Good stuff - but hard for me to source..... :(
Interesting. I'll look that up. Thank you.
I used tru oil on my first , and seemed awful expensive. After I used BLO . Seemed easier to get a finish with tru oil. Now on most of my woodworking I use OB shine juice . Need a power buffer to get it really nice , but it's goof proof and gives a heck of a finish
Where did you buy the blanks from ? I want to do either a maple or walnut for my marlin 25n .22lr
I got that one from a walnut slab seller and cut two out of it. I've got others from Ebay.
Oh ok I didn’t know eBay sold blanks of wood like that, I wonder if I can find curly maple blanks. Thanks for the reply !
Everyone sells everything on Ebay. I got a beautiful blank, 50 years old, Walnut for $100. for a Remington 700. The one in the video that I show as a finished version.
If glass bedding I assume do that first?
I bed the bigger calibers after the barrel/action channel is cut and it fits well. Before I finalize the forend and finish. Remember to use the release agent.
Excellent work. Have you ever sealed the pores with CA glue?
I'm not sure what CA Glue is?
@@skywagonuniversity5023 super glue. It’s a Luthier trick.
@@robinr6919 How do you use it?
@@skywagonuniversity5023 there are some videos here on UA-cam that explain the process. I think it would fill the pores faster than the sealer/filler with similar results. I’m going to refinish an old enfield using your technique. Might experiment and try CA glue on the smaller pieces
@@robinr6919 So It's called CA Glue.