DeWalt Sawzall Repair - Broken Blade Holder
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
- Fixing my sawzall / reciprocating saw. Replacing the shaft with blade holder assembly, part number N302139, including teardown, inspection, cleaning, and greasing.
Should fit DeWalt models:
DW303, DW304
Black & Decker models:
26600, 27391 - Навчання та стиль
UPDATE: Sadly, this sawzall quit working. The gears were stripped. So if you are going to repair yours, make sure you check the gear mesh. I'm not entirely sure how to adjust it, my only guess without attempting it would be to shim the back armature bearing, to push the armature side gear down into the gearbox.
Thanks and really appreciate your honesty and truthfulness it's very humble,wish you the best and keep doing what you do.😲✌️🇱🇷
thank you for posting the repair. i own both DeWalt and Milwaukee reciprocating saws. to be honest i have experienced no issues with the Milwaukee under much longer and heavier use and zero maintenance.
The video was very helpful. When I got to putting the black front cover I had to cut out a small section of plastic to fit the new blade holder. My old blade holder was smaller. Seeing the hole in the end of the cover showed me the difference between our covers. It was easily to cut out with a dremel making room to slide the blade lock through all the way. I can post a pic if you want..
3 thumbs up, absolutely the best video I've seen on here.😲
Great video. You went over each detail that many other videos did not. My DW304P required a T-25 for larger screws and T-20 for smaller. HOW funny I had the same concern about the spring around the old shaft that seemed to be missing from the new shaft. ( I really thought I had the wrong model- glad you put my mind at ease). after packing it in grease and closing it up it was good as new. Thank you for your clear step by step instructions and video.
np. Be sure to check the gear lash though, as mine went kaput a short time after this repair. Honestly not sure how I could've messed it up.
Great video. Thank you for taking the time to create. Great job with camera and explanation. Many times videos leave you screaming to ask a question because they are not thorough in showing how to. Your was exceptional. Again, thank you.
Your video was great! I was able to fix my Dewalt reciprocating saw with your instructions. You saved it from the junk heap.
Nice job. I repair tools for contractors other folks as a sideline and you did a great job. A lot of people get intimidated when trying to repair their tools but most are not that bad. The newer brushless tools are a little more involved because you have to change out the whole switch and armature assy. not just change the brushes or a switch.
Thanks! I'm no stranger to repairing things big or small.
Thanks! I had the same repair and this video answered a few questions replacing my blade holder. Mine was just worn in the area the blade retaining ball and sleeve came together, and it was easier to replace the whole assembly than try to fix that older-engineered version. Good info!
Fantastic ‘how to’ video. Thanks for the help!
Hi! Nice video. Thanks!
BTW, many believe the dark coating on a commutator should be removed. However that actually isn't the case.
Manufacturers selecting the proper brush compound, for the current density to be passed & the environment in which the motor will operate, will actually result in the brushes riding on a protective film of gas rather than the commutator bar copper itself.
A properly chosen compound will result in a chocolate colored coating, the result of the current generated gas, and extended brush & commutator life. In other words, the chocolate color coating is a good sign. Without the gas, the commutator will remain shiny &, along with the brushes, will wear prematurely.
Not to worry though, although you'll loose a bit of brush & commutator life, with use the coating will eventually re-establish.
Unless you have to actually change the brushes & mitigate a scarred commutator with a brush polishing stone (shouldn't use emery cloth), it's best to just gently remove any dirt & grease & carefully clean any debris that may have accumulated between the commutator bars, on top of each of the insulated slots.
Best regards, Dennis
Thanks for the tip. It is just kind of a 'while I'm in there...' type of thing. In case the commutator has any minor imperfections.
Very good job...
Is perfect time to clean the all Parts’s ....
Great video! I might attempt this I have the same saw and it’s starting to overhear pretty quickly. I’d love to take it apart to clean and re-grease it.
Nice. Just be sure to read the pinned update comment.
want more of this! subscribed. You are an asmr repair man
This video helped me tremendously! Thank you.
Be sure you check the gear mesh! (If you took off the gearbox, anyway.) I learned that the hard way :(
FTW , too complicated i'll just hand my imaginary sawzall over to my handyman to fix. Liked+ Subscribed
Great video of complete cleaning and replacing the whole arm to the blade holder.
Is there a way to replace just the holder part. Tried to pop just the pin but it must be a hell of a press fit.
Which pin? It would be best to just do what I did, but without taking the motor off and apart, that's where I screwed up. Opening the gearbox is only a few screws.
Good vid thanks. Did you notice any improvement in the blade clamp with the updated spring design? Mounting blades vertically is always a hassle as the lever has to be forced to its max extension in order for the ball in the clamp to slide away from the blade detent.
The updated spring design simply deleted the spring entirely. I guess they found it unnecessary. I will say that the new blade holder worked much more smoothly and I had no problems chucking in a blade sideways. The quick release blade holder design is clearly a compromise, it was never going to be perfect. However, I think a lot of hassles can be avoided by keeping the blade holder lubricated with some kind of oil - say SAE30 or spray white lithium grease. The debris that gets in there is what makes it sticky in the first place and why you have to force the lever so hard.
If you're doing this repair please read my pinned comment!
@@madmanmapper Thanks for the reply and the channel. Great work on both counts!
nice work, any links where I can buy Dewalt DCS367N 18V XR shaft kit with blade holder
Not off hand, but ebay or amazon are good. Just punch in the part number: N302139
Is there an easy way to remove a broke blade ? It broke off flush with the tool. You would think Raising the release arm all the way it would come out. But NO! I even emailed DeWalt. They said I gave them the wrong model number. WRONG!
Assuming the blade holder is not damaged in any way, I'd recommend using compressed air to blow out any debris all around the bit of broken blade. Then, fill the cavity with WD-40 or similar. The release handle is not the best design and does not always put enough force onto the blade holder to actuate it. So, use a large screwdriver to press the lever on the blade holder instead. While holding it in the 'release' state, if the blade hasn't come out already, slam the whole sawzall nose-first onto the edge of a table. Might be tricky to do while holding the screwdriver, but hopefully the broken blade will just fall out at that point.
@@madmanmapper I took a center punch, and pressed the mechanism further down. Like you did with the screw driver. The blade came out when I pulled on it with some needle nose pliers. I'm glad there was a simpler way. Than tearing the tool apart. I do not have much success putting things back together. Ha!
Hello Man, I have a 20V Dewalt Newer Style and I Beat it up pretty bad. Anyway, in place but it is wobbling from left to right like rotating freely. Do you know what I should look at to try and tighten up any bolts or fix it thank you sir.
Sounds like the gear case is worn out. Not sure if they sell the whole thing.
@@madmanmapper Thank You for Responding Sir ✅💪🏼👌🏼
My saw has some play at the blade clamp, side to side and up and down, how to fix?
I'm not sure if you mean the blade has play in the clamp, or the clamp has play in the gearbox. If it's the blade moving around in the clamp, buy the above part number and follow this video.
If the clamp is wobbling around in the gearbox, you may have bigger problems. Possibly either the little bearing 9:18 or the shaft block 9:40 is worn. I'm not sure if those parts are available. Only way to know for sure is to take it apart :)
Can you please share the link for parts for sawzall thanks
Check amazon or ebay for N302139
www.amazon.com/Dewalt-N302139-Reciprocating-616363-00-616343-01/dp/B00HT98GOC/ref=sr_1_1_mod_primary_new?keywords=N302139&link_code=qs&qid=1667445298&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIwLjAwIiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-1
@@madmanmapper thanks
what size torx screwdriver used?
Most are T20. iirc, there is one T15.
MadMan Machinations Tank you!
The round button on my sawzaw is stuck, any suggestions?
The round button should be holding the trigger down, is it stuck on, then? Either way, it's likely dirty. However, those little plastic buttons tend to be flimsy, I wouldn't be surprised if it was broken.
@@madmanmapper Yes I am cutting up tree roots growing underneath some cement steps I need to fix. I cleaned roots pretty good. Maybe the dirt did get in it. Maybe the can of dust buster for computer key boards?
@@bugsea54 Worth a shot. Does the saw run at all? Rather, is the button stuck with the trigger on or off?
@@madmanmapper Well it got stuck on on, and I had to hold a saw running with one hand to unplug it with another. The button is stuck in the socket. So now I am scared to use it. Because when you let go of the trigger you need your saw to stop. That sounds dangerous for me being an amateur and not having a strong arm like a man.
@@bugsea54 Play with the trigger and beat the machine at the same time. You might find the button pops out by itself.
That's not a sawzall. That's a DeWalt reciprocating saw. Milwaukee's version of a reciprocating saw is a sawzall and only a Milwaukee is a sawzall.
And yet, all facial tissue is Kleenex, all polystyrene is Styrofoam, all acrylic is Plexiglass, all refrigerants are Freon, all clear tape is Scotch Tape, all cooking oil is Canola, all personal watercraft are Jetski's, etc, etc. So smartass, don't tell me you're not guilty of at least one of these.
Good¡¡¡