Wow, serpentine belt was shredding and I realized my water pump was loose. DIYing it but could not find a video for a 4.2 anywhere. This is the only video I could find (thank god it’s a great one). Anyways, you posted this the same exact time my water pump gave out. If it wasn’t for you, I would be shit outta luck and a lot poorer. Thank you so much for posting this. So wild how you can randomly help someone you’ve never met without knowing you are doing it. Liked and subscribed. Thank you!!
Absolutely!! I’m glad I could help. I ran into the same issue trying to find a good video! Im waiting for the metal heater pipe in the mail, should be here today or tomorrow and then I’ll get part 2 out!
Awesome! Thank you! I almost have the pump out. I’m wondering if I may have to order that same metal pipe. Anyways, any suggestions for reinstalling? What are you going to clean the area where you put the new gasket on? I want to try to install today but we will see.
Awesome! So yes I would get a gasket scraper, they have them at Walmart or Autozone for cheap. If you don’t want to go to that extent you can use a razor blade and it works much better and faster, but you need to be careful not to actually scratch the metal. I would also use a solvent, such as acetone or brake cleaner to give you a nice clean surface for the gasket to go back on. Some people like to use some RTV on the gasket, but I believe that you should let the gasket do the work because that’s what it’s designed for. You can definitely use a small amount of high-tach gasket sealer to hold the gasket in place while you put the water pump on. With that metal pipe, the reason I had to buy a new one is because the bottom part of the thicker portion of the pipe broke off inside the old water pump. Mine was super old and rusty, but if yours doesn’t look as bad, you might be able to slowly wiggle it out of the water pump without breaking it, and just replace the O-Ring on it. You can buy the part on rock auto for only $72. It came out to about 90 bucks with tax and shipping. Good luck!
Awesome, thank you so much! Literally would have had no idea what to do without you. 3 days ago, I was driving and the serpentine belt started shredding and slapping all over the place. Replaced it and notice the new one was seated towards the front of the pulley on the pump. I was suspicious it was loose. New one shredded almost immediately after pulling out of my driveway. Took off the new one and checked the pump and it had a fair bit of wiggle. Found this video 3 days ago. Crazy. Anyways, you’re the man! Thanks brother.
Thanks for this video. It was very usefull. My f150 4.2 2001 it's about 280.000 milles. This is my first time doing this kind of work. Today i going to install the pump. You help me a lot. I hope that my english was fine.
Great video. Thank you. fyi for others: penetrating oil does nothing on the long bolts. Applying some anti seize for reassembly is great for the next service. Thanks for sharing. Your detail is great.
You may want to look into replacing the timing cover gaskets as well. The water pump on Fords bolts to the timing cover, which serves as an adaptor plate to the block. In short, it carries the water from the pump into the block. It uses a similar gasket as the water pump but on the back side: timing cover to engine block. This one fails with time, and will dump coolant into your crankcase. Make a mess too.
Just changed mine on my '01 4.2l, you don't have to pull the pulley off the power steering pump, just loosen the 4 mounting bolts 12mm, thread them almost all the way but leave a few threads to hold and slide it back, the water pump bracket bolt can clear easily..
Working on a slightly newer one of these now. A new water pump put in not that long ago to chase a squeaking issue is itself now squeaking. I've owned mine since new and its nowhere near as crusty looking (only 80k on it). I was glad you got those long bracket bolts out w/o snapping them off. It seems like they built everything around the pump on this engine.
If you draw this bolt out completely against the interior of the pulley, you will be able to rotate the bracket out of the way to remove the pump. Good luck
Removing the power steering pump pulley is a waste of time, you can move the bracket out of the way without taking the bolt behind pulley completely out
Thank you so much! After this video I made the choice to change the car , not the water pump only. This engine (4.2l) is the disgrace to the American auto industry...
Had a water pump installed because I had a leak from a broken seal (my 2002 f150 has 316K miles. I figured to replace the water pump even though it's the seal that is broken only. I have been driving it for a month with a leak and I just add a gallon of water in the morning and all good to go until the next day. In the process the mechanic damaged the radiator, transmission line. Told him and the shop owner that all those were ok when I drove in. I replaced them as well. The next day i drive out and not less than 2 miles on the highway vehicle breaks down. I attempted to drive back to the mechanic about 4 miles away but one mile from where i died I could not start any longer. Had to get it towed. When I got back to the shop the mechanic realizes and I wish I checked but he barely reconnected the battery cable. Again, I test drive it, it was still running rough and again 2 miles away it overheats on the highway. After letting it cool down, I bring it back and without telling me he removed the thermostat that I installed 2 months ago. So, I guess it is not overheating anymore but still driving rough, so he said my ignition coil and sparkplugs were bad. Luckily, I still had a warranty on the ignition coil since I replaced it 2 months ago with thermostat, fuel injectors, sparkplugs and cables. After all that he now says my crankshaft pully is broken, it was sliding back and forth. I don't know if he damaged this maybe not, but he has gone under the vehicle in this area especially after he broke the transmission line. Now, I think I am going to find another mechanic shop. I have been going back and fort to this shop for 3 days and even though the truck is not overheating any longer, it now doesn't have a thermostat and it is running rough and has slow acceleration compared to how it was running smooth and strong before i brought it in.
@@coreybabcock2023 Any tips on getting it out? And when you put it back in, is there anything special you do to it? Or just shove it back in? Thank you.
![Ford 4.2L V6 Hydrolock and IMRC fix [1080 HD]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bhIq9lsKvOU/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow, serpentine belt was shredding and I realized my water pump was loose. DIYing it but could not find a video for a 4.2 anywhere. This is the only video I could find (thank god it’s a great one). Anyways, you posted this the same exact time my water pump gave out. If it wasn’t for you, I would be shit outta luck and a lot poorer. Thank you so much for posting this. So wild how you can randomly help someone you’ve never met without knowing you are doing it. Liked and subscribed. Thank you!!
Absolutely!! I’m glad I could help. I ran into the same issue trying to find a good video! Im waiting for the metal heater pipe in the mail, should be here today or tomorrow and then I’ll get part 2 out!
Awesome! Thank you! I almost have the pump out. I’m wondering if I may have to order that same metal pipe. Anyways, any suggestions for reinstalling? What are you going to clean the area where you put the new gasket on? I want to try to install today but we will see.
Awesome! So yes I would get a gasket scraper, they have them at Walmart or Autozone for cheap. If you don’t want to go to that extent you can use a razor blade and it works much better and faster, but you need to be careful not to actually scratch the metal. I would also use a solvent, such as acetone or brake cleaner to give you a nice clean surface for the gasket to go back on. Some people like to use some RTV on the gasket, but I believe that you should let the gasket do the work because that’s what it’s designed for. You can definitely use a small amount of high-tach gasket sealer to hold the gasket in place while you put the water pump on. With that metal pipe, the reason I had to buy a new one is because the bottom part of the thicker portion of the pipe broke off inside the old water pump. Mine was super old and rusty, but if yours doesn’t look as bad, you might be able to slowly wiggle it out of the water pump without breaking it, and just replace the O-Ring on it. You can buy the part on rock auto for only $72. It came out to about 90 bucks with tax and shipping. Good luck!
Awesome, thank you so much! Literally would have had no idea what to do without you. 3 days ago, I was driving and the serpentine belt started shredding and slapping all over the place. Replaced it and notice the new one was seated towards the front of the pulley on the pump. I was suspicious it was loose. New one shredded almost immediately after pulling out of my driveway. Took off the new one and checked the pump and it had a fair bit of wiggle. Found this video 3 days ago. Crazy. Anyways, you’re the man! Thanks brother.
Haha for sure! That’s crazy it came loose. Very glad I could help!
Thanks for this video. It was very usefull. My f150 4.2 2001 it's about 280.000 milles. This is my first time doing this kind of work. Today i going to install the pump. You help me a lot. I hope that my english was fine.
Great video. Thank you.
fyi for others: penetrating oil does nothing on the long bolts.
Applying some anti seize for reassembly is great for the next service.
Thanks for sharing. Your detail is great.
You may want to look into replacing the timing cover gaskets as well. The water pump on Fords bolts to the timing cover, which serves as an adaptor plate to the block. In short, it carries the water from the pump into the block. It uses a similar gasket as the water pump but on the back side: timing cover to engine block.
This one fails with time, and will dump coolant into your crankcase. Make a mess too.
I'm hoping this is what happened to my 4.2
Thanks! Say I'm doing this job and have the old water pump out, how mucher harder would it be to change that gasket and where is it?
Thank you so much for making this video brother. 🫡👍🏿
Thanks for your great job of instructing. Made the job a lot more simple and easier for me. Have a great day.
Just changed mine on my '01 4.2l, you don't have to pull the pulley off the power steering pump, just loosen the 4 mounting bolts 12mm, thread them almost all the way but leave a few threads to hold and slide it back, the water pump bracket bolt can clear easily..
Yep
Very detailed video great job.
Good video wish you would done part 2 but keep up with the hard work 👍🔥
Working on a slightly newer one of these now. A new water pump put in not that long ago to chase a squeaking issue is itself now squeaking. I've owned mine since new and its nowhere near as crusty looking (only 80k on it).
I was glad you got those long bracket bolts out w/o snapping them off. It seems like they built everything around the pump on this engine.
13:04 I'm having serious issues with this bolt and don't have access to a gear puller. Think I can wiggle the pump out without taking this bolt off?
If you draw this bolt out completely against the interior of the pulley, you will be able to rotate the bracket out of the way to remove the pump. Good luck
Great tutorial
Removing the power steering pump pulley is a waste of time, you can move the bracket out of the way without taking the bolt behind pulley completely out
Doesn’t seem like it it’s supported by a stud hanging from the water pump bolts
I had to move the PS pump to move the bracket
Thank you so much! After this video I made the choice to change the car , not the water pump only. This engine (4.2l) is the disgrace to the American auto industry...
Agree
Great detail thanks
Had a water pump installed because I had a leak from a broken seal (my 2002 f150 has 316K miles. I figured to replace the water pump even though it's the seal that is broken only. I have been driving it for a month with a leak and I just add a gallon of water in the morning and all good to go until the next day. In the process the mechanic damaged the radiator, transmission line. Told him and the shop owner that all those were ok when I drove in. I replaced them as well. The next day i drive out and not less than 2 miles on the highway vehicle breaks down. I attempted to drive back to the mechanic about 4 miles away but one mile from where i died I could not start any longer. Had to get it towed. When I got back to the shop the mechanic realizes and I wish I checked but he barely reconnected the battery cable. Again, I test drive it, it was still running rough and again 2 miles away it overheats on the highway. After letting it cool down, I bring it back and without telling me he removed the thermostat that I installed 2 months ago. So, I guess it is not overheating anymore but still driving rough, so he said my ignition coil and sparkplugs were bad. Luckily, I still had a warranty on the ignition coil since I replaced it 2 months ago with thermostat, fuel injectors, sparkplugs and cables. After all that he now says my crankshaft pully is broken, it was sliding back and forth. I don't know if he damaged this maybe not, but he has gone under the vehicle in this area especially after he broke the transmission line. Now, I think I am going to find another mechanic shop. I have been going back and fort to this shop for 3 days and even though the truck is not overheating any longer, it now doesn't have a thermostat and it is running rough and has slow acceleration compared to how it was running smooth and strong before i brought it in.
Hello. Awesome video my friend. I have a 2001 f150 v6 . Can you recommend where to buy a good water pump please. Thank you. Be well.
That htr outlet pipe is a pain in the butt I just deal with while changing the thermostat
It is but I got it out and back in
@@coreybabcock2023 Any tips on getting it out? And when you put it back in, is there anything special you do to it? Or just shove it back in? Thank you.
@@Hypno_Raygun it's a pain in the ass
Mine did the same thing take the reservoir cap off the drain plug will immediately flow freely.
You should only use impact sockets with a impact gun. They have more mass which helps loosen them and they wont shatter.
I used chrome sockets today no issues
what's the scoop on the MGA?
Same question here 😁
I deleted my oil cooler too now that y pipe feeds the heater core and lower intake
Where was part 2?
This job looks like a nightmare
Part 2?
Had to sawzall the fan clutch off as advance Auto tool rental sucks ass i bought a new severe duty fan clutch anyway
Where’s part two? lol
Don't break that pipe it is a lot more expensive than the pump
Brokering bold