Mitsubishi L200 (MK3 K74) Head Removal (4D56) -- Part 2
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- Опубліковано 17 лис 2021
- This is my 2003 Mitsubishi L200 project. It’s a K74 with a 2.5TDi engine, manual gearbox with locking rear diff. I bought this vehicle as a non runner and will be getting it back into working order. Join me for the revival.
In this episode I remove and inspect the head for the failure mode and damage caused.
This is a list of affiliate and non affiliate links to the parts I used for the repairs:
Coolant -- ebay.us/IHf2qR
Oil Filter -- ebay.us/q03QOl
Fuel Filter -- ebay.us/TSy273
Oil 5L -- ebay.us/7elX4y
Timing Belt Inc Tensioners -- ebay.us/sHzukW
Aux Belts -- www.eurocarparts.com/search/2...
Crank Bolt -- ebay.us/y38gpQ
Front Oil Seal -- ebay.us/Fxrtnv
Cam Cover Seal -- ebay.us/bSDfoS
Water Pump -- ebay.us/WsCmkN
Radiator -- ebay.us/OmdRIf
Thermostat -- ebay.us/O6ejaK
Coolant Temp Sensor -- www.milneroffroad.com/mitsubi...
Head Assembly -- www.lymmengineparts.co.uk/mit...
Glow Plugs -- ebay.us/kZ12sE
Injector Washers -- ebay.us/8DIZ4f
Sealant -- ebay.us/XfwccI
Injector Tester -- ebay.us/2PT0qb
Upper Ball Joints -- ebay.us/qt8qqU
Battery -- www.eurocarparts.com/p/lion-3...
Stack Pipes -- www.milneroffroad.com/mitsubi...
The long full detail videos are so so much more helpful than just the short main bits!
Very detailed and useful video. Well done 👍
Extremely helpful video series thank you. Best to take an abundance of pictures from plenty of different angles and mark the hoses and other connections with paint pens or other identification methods to try and avoid mix ups during reassembly.
What a great series of videos, I'm working my way through them all and it is inspiring me to do the same. I have multiple oil leaks and a knackered cam shaft due to running without a full compliment of oil due to the aforementioned oil leaks. I think a new head with everything installed would be the best option, although there is a lot of work involved. But it will mean getting to the bottom of all these leaks once and for all.
Thanks for long vid, a lot more helpful for a nob like me and provides insight of what it takes
Nice job
Thank you for a great video with good details is always better with torque and timing details as they are always time consuming to find on the net 👍.
Thanks for sharing brother
Good sharing.I like it.
That brings back some memories. Same thing happened to my 03 l200 about 12 years ago.
You can't really say you've owned one unless you've had to do a balance/timing belt or head/head gasket!
I've got an 03 l200!
I wish I had of seen these videos before I done my own, 👍
I did almost the same work last year and its incredible how lack of sapce is this to work for been a japanese car, this heads are very weak and usually suffer this issues.
Have you ever seen a 4d56 cylinder head leaking oil from the rear of the head (definitely not the rocker cover gasket)... Yet no loss of compression / power.. No smoke.. No problem at all bar an annoying oil leak.
This is a replacement head I fitted 4 years ago (properly.. Garage Tech pro). I used the latest triple steel head gaskets and upgraded the cooling system using all new parts and an alloy dual core radiator (no overheating (ever). I've been advised that there are (possible) casting bolts that can leak under pressure rear of the head just under the half moon gasket (rocker cover).
Have you ever had this??
Great video BTW 👍👍📹
Have you checked the turbo oil feed line from the head to the turbo for a leak? I had a leak in this area and looking from underneath it will look very similar to a head oil leak. Might be work checking here first?
Holy shit...I have this leak!!!
@@ToolTimeWithTom
All good.. 👍
@@paulminshall7453
This casting bolt is a real bitch to remove btw. I ruined mine and had to replace it (but sealed it first).
Road test next week to see if it holds under boost 😬.
Beware of buying any used L200 Mitsubishi vehicles with a body lift as these body lifts can put the radiator and fan out of alignment . When the radiator which is attached to the body is raised this then makes it become offset from the radiator fan which is still attached to the engine on the chassis . To overcome this some people remove the bottom half of the radiator cowling to avoid it striking the fan thus letting some air which is suppose to go through the radiator to cool the engine escape underneath the radiator instead. Consequently the engine can overheat leading to head gasket failure etc.
Reply
all of it i think is best, you can always skip parts if ye wish to
I want to see the full video
What attachment fits to back of cylinder head the round part with a spout for a hose .
I've finally got round to getting the head off. I thought everything was good until I noticed lots of marks on the bottom of the head, I then looked at the coresponding piston and saw the same marks. A rogue nut perhaps?
The question is do I have to get the rest of the engine out to change the damaged piston or can it be done from underneath? Also do you just change one piston and ring?
I've never changed bearings/piston/rods on an L200, if you're in the position where you need to change one set of rings and a piston I'd probably just swap all the rings out while you're there, might as well do bearings too if it's all apart. You'll need piston ring pliers, a ring compressing tool, micrometers to measure the new piston, dial bore gauge for checking the bore dimensions, bore hone, feeler gauge for gapping the new rings, I'd also want to check the piston height relative to deck height to make sure the rods not bent at all. I think it's probably easier if the engines out realistically
really good video just wondered what head gasket kit you ordered as i could do with one
Thanks, it's the included gasket with the kit from Lymm engine components, seems to be well enough made.
A good idea is to unplug the battery first.
Yes! That's best practice
Hi! I have a suspected cylinder head/head gasket problem with my L200 K74 at the moment (this is based on what people have told me) and I windered how long this process took you start to finish. Thanks!
Start to finish you could do it in a weekend if you had all the parts ready to go. I chipped away at it in bits fitting around other things I had going on and the filming slows you down. You could probably have the head off in 2-4 hours depending how fast you are.
👍
hi how are things. The videos are very good. I wanted to know if you are from the United States? and where contrast the cylinder cover? thank you so much
I'm based in the UK. What do you need to know about the cylinder cover?
Great video, thankyou! Given me the confidence to do this myself. How do you get the timing belts off so easily in the video? I have a belt to the bottom right that I'm sure you don't show being removed unless it's for a/c which I have and you don't?... 🤔
No problem, glad I could help! I don't have AC so that will be the extra belt you have. They're easy enough to remove, is it on the same belt as anything else or is it on its own?
@@ToolTimeWithTom hey, thanks for your reply... that other belt connects to the crankshaft pully with a tensioner then the a/c pump. Do I take off all the aux belts then adjust to top dead centre? What happens when it all moves again when trying to loosen the main crank / pully bolt? Cheers
No problem, yes you can take the aux belts off first, the engine doesn't care what position those ancillaries are in. Ones the aux belts are removed, you can set timing to TDC on cylinder one from the mark on the crank pulley. When you want to undo the crank bolt, put the truck in 5th gear and get someone to sit inside with their foot on the brake. Now the crank and drivetrain are coupled together, you can undo the crank bolt without spinning the engine over as you try to undo it.
Hello dear thanks for sharing
I have a question please and am in a big trouble 😢
I don’t know how but my timing belt are not aligning at all And am not able to find something on net to put it back aligned please
Do have any idea or anyone can help me please put back my alignment
Thanking in advanced
Check some of the later videos in the playlist, I show fitting the timing and balance belts in detail. This should help you!
@@ToolTimeWithTom thank you so much for a quick reply but can you tell me in which video please thanking you in advance
I want to see how you torque the head
Check my other video on a head install, should be in there
I've been told I have oil leaking from gasket (not excessive) its 05 only had it 3 weeks what would be repair , cost for something like that? Can Permarex ultra grey be suitable .
Which gasket is it leaking from?
Am a female that's just inherited 54 plate that belonged to dad now passed brothers not interested Nd in difrent country but I want put her back on road she still purs like kitten needs new exhaust n bit Weldon go mot so am grateful Ur vids
Am in scotland
Does any fluid need to be drained while performing this job
Drain the coolant, oil will be fine to leave in but I would change it after new head is in place.
Bottom pulley won't come off and neither will the head. Everything removed as per video. Im guessing they need some persuasion...?
The bottom pulley might need to be removed with a hub puller, I can't remember if I needed it or not. For the head, it normally will come up with a light pry, but if you're really leaning on a pry bar and it's not moving might have a missed bolt somewhere. Make sure you're not prying on a mating surface though.
Do it have a map sensor
Yes it does
Bos.