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From memory it's a LeadFootRacing manifold, based in the UK. Normally I use the clip that holds the hard line, open it out to remove the hard line and pop the braided line in it and close it back up

Depending on where you are in the world will impact the best places. If you want direct from Japan I'd use Amayama or RHDJapan

I went back though the same process I showed, it probably would have been fine but the pin for the high pressure fuel pump was really tight to get in. I went back through again and just tweaked it slightly so that pin was free to go in and out. I've reused the bolts, seems to be okay so far, not had any issues. I imagine most non dealer garages reuse all the existing bolts so I'm hoping it will be okay

Yes, you'll need to because bottom ball joint is removed from the arm during axle removal

They will be torqued, might have missed the edit! Use two stacked nuts to install and torque to specification

If you're getting oil in there I'd look to replace the valve cover gaskets sealing around the injector ports

@@ToolTimeWithTom yeah done them they don’t stop it cleaned the injector wells spotless aswell. apparently the high pressure fuel lines are single use maybe it’s leaking fuel from them they are very slightly oily on top of the injectors but barely who knows I give up now

In the video description

Yeah, quantities are from the owners manual, sometimes when you drain you can't get everything out, they may be quantities for a dry fill. In my opinion, so long as you're somewhere close to them it should be okay, ultimately you can't fill higher than the full plug anyway

For the full job? Removal and getting the new parts on?

@@ToolTimeWithTom yea to replace the head and crank seal.

You could probably do it over a weekend if you've not got anything else on. It's not that involved, just depends how nicely the fasters come undone and if you find any other issues along the way

You could probably do it over a weekend if you've not got anything else on. It's not that involved, just depends how nicely the fasters come undone and if you find any other issues along the way

@@ToolTimeWithTom 100% I plan on doing mine next weekend hopefully not run into any issues. Cheers mate

I'd more expect a leaking or faulty injector rather than the seals

It won't be the return causing the carbon build up, will be the copper washer at the bottom. The worse the leak is the harder the injector is to remove.

Brake cleaner

Without re-watching, probably brake cleaner. Discs are shipped with an oily coating to prevent them rusting in storage which you don't want coming into contact with your pads!

@@ToolTimeWithTom nice one thanks.

Nope! Still in the corner of the garage, it's on the to do list, couldn't say which page though 😂

@@ToolTimeWithTom 😂😂

@@ToolTimeWithTom you need to get it rebuild and post it so i can look at the guide xD have a gear that is a little choppy. r33 gtst with rb25det Where is a good place to get gears for these boxes?

Do you have spark plugs in?

@@ToolTimeWithTom no they are out. the lifters make a squishy noise and when im turning the engine over by hand i can feel the cam lobes catching the edge of them. Is that normal?

I disassembled and reassembled everything turns out i had installed the intake cam caps upside down hadnt realized the text was supposed to face towards the exhaust

Ah classic! I've done the same myself before! The text on the first cap shows the direction of the text for the other caps, but easy to miss

I try to keep on top of them! Don't think so, I imagine I would have replaced them if they were

It sucks, the clearance is really tight and it's very awkward!

any tool that you would recommend to go around this issue? I use ratchet wrench and not sure if a straight tool wouldnt be better? I couldnt tell what you’re using here. Your video has been my go to. thanks for that:)

I think I broke it loose with 1/4" ratchet, then unscrewed it by hand. Will be just finding the right combination of extensions, wobbles and bits

@@ToolTimeWithTom thanks and any idea why the egr hose gaskets come with a four clamps? I bought incorrect one which was flat but everywhere I look to shop for they have clamps and I cant imagine how that would fit there. The one you shown in the video doesnt have those clamps.

Drain the coolant, oil will be fine to leave in but I would change it after new head is in place.

It was a generic kit from eBay, there's quite a few on there, should be quite easy to source

I couldn't find a solid answer, the intervals are all over the place depending on the year, engine code and which day it currently is. I've opted for 5 years or 80k miles but don't count that as a recommendation.

I don't have a video but if you're standing in front of the engine, from bulkhead, towards you, on top of the cam cover, it should go, green dash, white dash, no dashes on the vac lines

I think I linked all the parts I used in the video description, hope it helps!

The bearing had detached from the rubber mount, interestingly didn't make much noise, only noticed when I was under for something else. Easy enough to crawl under and have a look

Duramat UK, I don't think they do these exact ones anymore but they've got similar

Thanks!

So normally the torque application method is defined by the fixings used. Torque to yield bolts almost always use the angle method to set the clamp load, it's more accurate at hitting a precise clamp loading than a standard torque application. The Nissan standard fixings aren't torque to yield and should be fine with a standard torque application. I'm following the Nissan service manual so hopefully should be accurate and suitable for the fixings. Make sure you clean out the oil passages in the crank journals and use assembly lube going back together

@@ToolTimeWithTom thanks for the reply man, I really appreciate it. I'll do the 20/40 method and check with plastigauge again to make sure tolerances are right. Its nerve racking doing something like this for the first time. I've seen that you need to be careful not to spray brake clean into the main passages when cleaning the rod passages? Should I just put some brake clean on a q tip and make a few passes that way or do you have another suggestion? I'm not using a crazy amount of polishing material so its not caking the passages but I definitely want to make sure they're clean.

@@ToolTimeWithTom so I took out #3 today and it is spun. Theres some discoloration on the cap and the bearings are quite this. Also the lettering and numbers are worn off the cap. The discoloration is not on the crank itself, just part of the cap. I know it would be wise to replace the con rods but is there a chance that slight discoloration due to heat doesn't mean the cap/rod are trashed? New bearing still fits nice and tight in the cap. I am going to sand and polish the crank and check tolerances, if the tolerances are still in spec, is it ok to use the slightly discolored cap and rod? Engine is in the car and we're trying to not have to pull it and completely rebuild the engine if possible but I've never messed with internals so I'm not 100% sure what is still considered acceptable. This motor won't even see 300hp without doing rods which is a future project. We just want to get back to stock operation. He does have a aftermarket(same size) turbo and running about 10-12psi so its making a little more power than stock but nothing crazy. Any input is appreciated.

If it's spun it's time for a new rod. You'll have to take the head off anyway to get that out and get the crank measured. Pulling the motor only takes 2-3 hours start to finish, best to pull it out and go through everything

@@ToolTimeWithTom oof. Well, I guess the motor is coming out. Found a crank about 5 hours away in good condition for a decent price. Might end up just replacing it instead of having it machined and having to run thicker bearings. That was not what we wanted to find but it is what it is. Thanks for the help man. I'll be using your video to rebuild his engine for sure. One more quick question. When I pull the pistons, is it required to hone the cylinders or should I just pop the pistons right back in as is? Seems like I wouldn't want to do that if everything is operating properly as is right? Like, I don't necessarily need to check the ring gap if everything was good prior to disassembly right?

In the video description