Dude, thank you. I ordered this and had it on pretty quickly. I could have read a manual all day long, but the visuals via video are way easier for me to understand. Mine was stuck closed so I had to manually open from the inside once I pulled the panel off. When trying to unlatch the broken one from the inside, I pulled that little side plastic piece off that houses the manual latch release. I was pulling on the long one for a while to no avail until I realized that the release was actually a smaller lever beneath that in the same housing. FYI for anyone stuck at that point.
Glad the video helped!! And always appreciate when people share things that helped them through a repair. Pinned your comment so more people would see it. Mine wasn’t stuck so I don’t have the first hand experience having the open it that way blindly.
@@dillansgaragenow that it’s been 7months……how has the cheaper option held up? My 2004 is starting to do this and would like to replace it but don’t want to spend 200+ if I don’t have to 👍🏻
@@dyllandominguez5548 it’s still good as new! I’m waiting for 1 year to make my update video. It hasn’t had a single hiccup. Just works perfect every time.
Great video! We bought the exact same part off of Amazon because the price was right. I looked up the video, because it seemed pretty straightforward, but the most helpful part was the reset and reprogramming part. Thanks for posting such a simple and easy to follow video!!!
Thank you for your video! I follow step by step and was able to get the unit installed and working. The dealership wanted to charge me close to $800. I got the part off of Amazon for $58 and it took like 20 minutes to install
Thank you 🎉 you saved me a new actuator and a tone of stress. I decided to try the battery/driver door lock/unlock thing before investing in parts. Totally worked! My tailgate was stuck, unlocked but closed... I couldn't lock the Runner, or open the tailgate. Now I know how to at leaste temporarily fix it. Big thanks.
I had the same thing. I tried the "remove 10A ECU fuse" fix but it didn't work for me. I then disconnected the battery and recycled the door locks. It worked. Thanks!
@@anthonysciacca4633 that’s definitely worked for some people. And some have shared that they’d have to do that once a month until they eventually replaced the latch.
Dillan, just completed the replacement on my 2008 4Runner. Your video was definitely the best of several viewed. Pulled the ECU-B 10A plus recycled the lock 3x just for the heck of it. Had to use my needle nose pliers to poke hole in weather membrane to get bolt for strap handle started. Everything else went just like you said. Good job dude. Got replacement off Amazon - $43.69 free shipping. So far so good. BTW had 2 10mm sockets much to my surprise!!
Just replaced mine on a 2008 4Runner and works like a charm now. Had this truck for over 2 years and the rear hatch actuator has been a major pain in my rear. Wish I would have done this sooner lol. A word to the wise...definitely remove the negative from the battery for 3 minutes and do the lock and unlock afterwards 3 times as you stated. Otherwise, the new unit will not be recognized, and it will be a brick. Thanks for the video, Dillan.
Thanks for this! My latch went on Sunday so only had to go a few days with a bungee holding my hatch closed. Couldn't lock it, but only got broken into once while I was waiting for the new latch to arrive. Took about 30 minutes from start to finish, everything went smoothly and now I've got locks again! Lol
You made the process so easy to replace. I saved a little time by letting the panel dangle and not fully removing it. Had plenty of room to work. Yes, I kept an eye on the 10mm sockets. Did not have to go to hardware store.😊
Stoked my video could help! Good call on not taking the panel off fully. Anything that saves a couple minutes is great! You got lucky with that 10mm. Keep an eye on that one. There’s a very dark place where they all escape to haha
Oh man this was so useful thank you! I just replaced the whole hatch on my 04 and the replacement's latch was doing that thing you showed at the beginning. So I swapped it out with my original latch, and it did not work until I did the normalization process you showed at the end! Now it's good as new and sexy flat black too!
Appreciate the effort for filming and editing a video. Compliments for making a short and concise instructional content. HOWEVER, there is likely nothing wrong with the latch. The catch is likely corroded and squared off which is causing the actuator motor to stick and then reverse. The catch is symmetrical and can be reversed to present a clean side to the latch.
With the symptoms I mentioned where the latch is audibly running slow, making grinding noises, or stopped working completely, a new latch is required. I understand what you’re saying but I’ve never heard someone say they heard the latch attempt to close, then it just doesn’t close.
@@dillansgarage In mine, the motor would do as yours did. It would try to open. Then slow down to a stop. Then reverse to locked position. Easy to diagnose as weak latch motor. My catch has 20 years of service. Reversed the catch and it works like new. (Mine was jammed shut. I had to manually release from inside. It took a lot of force to move the release lever which indicated mechanical and not electrical problem.)
@@encinobalboa wow. Well, it sounds like a super valid issue/symptom I’ll keep it in mind if I revisit the video again someday and it will be part of my list of things to check when someone asks. I don’t think I’d say it’s “likely” the issue, but definitely is a possible cause.
@@dillansgarage Not saying new latch is a bad idea but I am saying that sometimes a new part is not the right call. If you are on the trail far from home, reversing the catch might be the answer. Keep up the good work.
@@encinobalboa I never would’ve thought of it so it’s a great piece of knowledge you shared. Maybe I’ll do a short video about it so it’s at least searchable.
Thank you for this video! Covered everything I needed without having to sit through a 20min video and was able to get straight to work 😊 I tried the normalization before replacing the actuator just in case that was all it needed but it didn’t work. Replaced with amazon part and it works perfectly now!
Awesome! and thank you. It always so difficult to sift through and find the useful info in videos full of nonsense talking 😅 Im not trying to waist anyone’s time haha glad you’re back up and running.
Well done....just what I was looking for as my hatch door will only work intermittently. I will try to change it out before it completely fails and the temperature is warmer. (live near Chicago with current temps in single digits and windchill 20 to 30 degrees below zero...not good "shade tree mechanic" weather) thank you for sharing your video...
Don't wait. Do it now. SO much easier to get it switched out before it completely fails. Used this video and another that shows how to get it open if it won't pop and it literally took me less than 30 minutes to switch it out. Got a generic on Amazon for $50. Hope it lasts. We'll see!
You gave me the confidence to do this… twice. After installing it and doing the battery reset, it didn’t work! I realized I missed that step of plugging it into the connector, so I had to remove the interior pieces again to get to it. My mistake, not yours. Overall, an easy repair because of your great instructions. One more thing, I made damned sure I had my 10mm socket prior to doing anything. 😂
Ha! I’ve made mistakes exactly like that too many times. Good work not letting that 10mm walk away! There’s a dark place where they escape to. Glad you got the job done.
Great video! Woah I had watched it thru before I did the work. I got to the part where you put it all back together & I was like, "I'd better test this before I zip it all back up." Whoopsie. My gate locked shut 😅 Luckily I had noted the part where you mentioned the manual release. After I did the actuator reset it worked great. The hardest part was getting the panel back on. Thanks for the tutorial- very helpful.
Bought new part, going to complete tomorrow. Just to be clear, after cycling the unlock/lock 3 times, I have to cycle all the windows individually down and up 3 times?
So, I’m pulling up on the two levers (emergency release because my original component failed and i want to replace it like you did), trying to pull the tailgate closed while doing so since it’s kinda stuck half-ajar- and the door still won’t open. I’m pulling quite hard, and get it pulled high enough to make a “pop” noise, but the door still won’t give. Any thoughts? Thx!
Oh man. That’s a tough one. Maybe there’s something broken in your latch. Hope not. Try pushing in stead of pulling? I’d go out and take it apart to remind myself how it goes, but my fiancée is gone for the day. At this point I’d hit up Facebook groups with a video and see if anyone else has run into that same problem. If you’re in San Diego I’d say just cruise over.
Do you need to cycle the locks/windows if you disconnect your hatch while working on another part of the car? I was attempting to install a backup camera and disconnected the connector to the latch, reconnected it, and the latch stopped working. Trying to determine if I need to replace the assembly like in this video or if it’s a simpler fix. It was working fine beforehand
I believe if you disconnect the hatch at all you need to go through the initialization process like in the video. I’ve heard of people think they hat bad hatch lock actuators and all they do is that process and fixes it.
Hello, I installed everything but when I disconnect the battery and do the locking and unlocking process it works only once or twice, from there it stops working, what do I do?
It would be more difficult to pull the inside, trim off the hatch with the hatch close, but you can do it. Take that panel off and reach down towards the actuator. There is a side cover around the lever that you manually pull on to unlock and open the hatch. I mentioned it briefly in the video. Sorry I should have shown at more clearly.
@@elaquel8952 I’m very happy tonight know the video was helpful for you! Sometime when I see “……..” I think some one is making a joke. But I understand you were being honest. Thank you very much.
I changed the actuator closed the rear hatch all I got was a click door didn't close all the way and it's not opening did the 3m battery term off locked unlocked doors 3 times still nothing
@Dillan's Garage no I put the old one back in and it worked one time so I think I may have got a bad one from Amazon I'm now looking for a oem unit I hope it's not the switch
U will be doing it over in 3 months when that chinese pos part fails. Your lift bars are worn out also. It is supposed to go up by itself. That latch does not sound right either.
Dude, thank you. I ordered this and had it on pretty quickly. I could have read a manual all day long, but the visuals via video are way easier for me to understand. Mine was stuck closed so I had to manually open from the inside once I pulled the panel off. When trying to unlatch the broken one from the inside, I pulled that little side plastic piece off that houses the manual latch release. I was pulling on the long one for a while to no avail until I realized that the release was actually a smaller lever beneath that in the same housing. FYI for anyone stuck at that point.
Glad the video helped!! And always appreciate when people share things that helped them through a repair. Pinned your comment so more people would see it. Mine wasn’t stuck so I don’t have the first hand experience having the open it that way blindly.
@@dillansgaragenow that it’s been 7months……how has the cheaper option held up? My 2004 is starting to do this and would like to replace it but don’t want to spend 200+ if I don’t have to 👍🏻
@@dyllandominguez5548 it’s still good as new! I’m waiting for 1 year to make my update video. It hasn’t had a single hiccup. Just works perfect every time.
@@dillansgarage I appreciate the reply! 🙌🏻 do you happen to have a link of the one you bought or just a random 60 dollar one? 😅
@@dyllandominguez5548 yeah! I have a link in the video description to the exact one I ordered.
Great video! We bought the exact same part off of Amazon because the price was right. I looked up the video, because it seemed pretty straightforward, but the most helpful part was the reset and reprogramming part. Thanks for posting such a simple and easy to follow video!!!
Stoked my video could help! Mine is still working great
Thank you for your video! I follow step by step and was able to get the unit installed and working. The dealership wanted to charge me close to $800. I got the part off of Amazon for $58 and it took like 20 minutes to install
Stoked I was able to help!! $800 is absurd!!
“10mm likely missing” for the win. Subscribed! 💪😂
Ha! Gotcha! Thinking about selling 10-packs of 10mm sockets. Think anyone would buy it?
Might be a good item, at least 6 packs, 3 short and 3 deep sockets.
Thank you, so much!!! Your instructions were awesome.
Stoked! Glad you found it helpful
This was incredibly helpful for my 04 4Runner! Thanks for posting!
Awesome! Happy to hear!
Thank you 🎉 you saved me a new actuator and a tone of stress. I decided to try the battery/driver door lock/unlock thing before investing in parts. Totally worked! My tailgate was stuck, unlocked but closed... I couldn't lock the Runner, or open the tailgate. Now I know how to at leaste temporarily fix it. Big thanks.
@@mwsoupy epic! Stokes that worked out! Thank you for the comment too. Feels great to know the video can be helpful for people.
I had the same thing. I tried the "remove 10A ECU fuse" fix but it didn't work for me. I then disconnected the battery and recycled the door locks. It worked. Thanks!
@@anthonysciacca4633 that’s definitely worked for some people. And some have shared that they’d have to do that once a month until they eventually replaced the latch.
Dillan, just completed the replacement on my 2008 4Runner. Your video was definitely the best of several viewed. Pulled the ECU-B 10A plus recycled the lock 3x just for the heck of it. Had to use my needle nose pliers to poke hole in weather membrane to get bolt for strap handle started. Everything else went just like you said. Good job dude. Got replacement off Amazon - $43.69 free shipping. So far so good. BTW had 2 10mm sockets much to my surprise!!
Nice!!
Outstanding video! Excellent complete instructions and zero annoying "fluff"!
@@UTBDubya thank you so much. Stoked you enjoyed the video and found it helpful. I try hard not to add any fluff!
Just replaced mine on a 2008 4Runner and works like a charm now. Had this truck for over 2 years and the rear hatch actuator has been a major pain in my rear. Wish I would have done this sooner lol.
A word to the wise...definitely remove the negative from the battery for 3 minutes and do the lock and unlock afterwards 3 times as you stated. Otherwise, the new unit will not be recognized, and it will be a brick. Thanks for the video, Dillan.
Thank you for sharing! Stoked the video was helpful for you
Thanks for this! My latch went on Sunday so only had to go a few days with a bungee holding my hatch closed. Couldn't lock it, but only got broken into once while I was waiting for the new latch to arrive. Took about 30 minutes from start to finish, everything went smoothly and now I've got locks again! Lol
Nice! I’m happy the video could help. My Amazon latch is still working like new.
You made the process so easy to replace. I saved a little time by letting the panel dangle and not fully removing it. Had plenty of room to work. Yes, I kept an eye on the 10mm sockets. Did not have to go to hardware store.😊
Stoked my video could help! Good call on not taking the panel off fully. Anything that saves a couple minutes is great! You got lucky with that 10mm. Keep an eye on that one. There’s a very dark place where they all escape to haha
That works just fine for me with the Amazon actuator very simple to change only took me 20 minutes with the right tools thank you very much señor 🎉🎉
Happy to help!
Oh man this was so useful thank you! I just replaced the whole hatch on my 04 and the replacement's latch was doing that thing you showed at the beginning. So I swapped it out with my original latch, and it did not work until I did the normalization process you showed at the end! Now it's good as new and sexy flat black too!
Awesome!! Stoked my video could help and that you got it working 👏👏
You the man; Good helpful thorough video.
Thank you. Happy it helped!!
Don't have to disconnect the battery. Pull the ECU-B 10A fuse for a minute and replace. Good video
That’s an easier way to do it. But I’ve had so many people get confused with fuses before lol
Appreciate the effort for filming and editing a video. Compliments for making a short and concise instructional content. HOWEVER, there is likely nothing wrong with the latch. The catch is likely corroded and squared off which is causing the actuator motor to stick and then reverse. The catch is symmetrical and can be reversed to present a clean side to the latch.
With the symptoms I mentioned where the latch is audibly running slow, making grinding noises, or stopped working completely, a new latch is required. I understand what you’re saying but I’ve never heard someone say they heard the latch attempt to close, then it just doesn’t close.
@@dillansgarage In mine, the motor would do as yours did. It would try to open. Then slow down to a stop. Then reverse to locked position. Easy to diagnose as weak latch motor. My catch has 20 years of service. Reversed the catch and it works like new. (Mine was jammed shut. I had to manually release from inside. It took a lot of force to move the release lever which indicated mechanical and not electrical problem.)
@@encinobalboa wow. Well, it sounds like a super valid issue/symptom I’ll keep it in mind if I revisit the video again someday and it will be part of my list of things to check when someone asks. I don’t think I’d say it’s “likely” the issue, but definitely is a possible cause.
@@dillansgarage Not saying new latch is a bad idea but I am saying that sometimes a new part is not the right call. If you are on the trail far from home, reversing the catch might be the answer. Keep up the good work.
@@encinobalboa I never would’ve thought of it so it’s a great piece of knowledge you shared. Maybe I’ll do a short video about it so it’s at least searchable.
Thank you for this video! Covered everything I needed without having to sit through a 20min video and was able to get straight to work 😊 I tried the normalization before replacing the actuator just in case that was all it needed but it didn’t work. Replaced with amazon part and it works perfectly now!
Awesome! and thank you. It always so difficult to sift through and find the useful info in videos full of nonsense talking 😅 Im not trying to waist anyone’s time haha glad you’re back up and running.
Well done....just what I was looking for as my hatch door will only work intermittently. I will try to change it out before it completely fails and the temperature is warmer. (live near Chicago with current temps in single digits and windchill 20 to 30 degrees below zero...not good "shade tree mechanic" weather) thank you for sharing your video...
Brutal! I’m in SoCal so it’s basically 70° all year haha. You got this! Happy the video could help.
Don't wait. Do it now. SO much easier to get it switched out before it completely fails. Used this video and another that shows how to get it open if it won't pop and it literally took me less than 30 minutes to switch it out. Got a generic on Amazon for $50. Hope it lasts. We'll see!
@@jlester4892 wise words! Stoked my video could help. My Amazon one is still working perfectly.
suuuuper helpful greatly appreciate you
Happy to help!!
You gave me the confidence to do this… twice. After installing it and doing the battery reset, it didn’t work! I realized I missed that step of plugging it into the connector, so I had to remove the interior pieces again to get to it. My mistake, not yours. Overall, an easy repair because of your great instructions. One more thing, I made damned sure I had my 10mm socket prior to doing anything. 😂
Ha! I’ve made mistakes exactly like that too many times. Good work not letting that 10mm walk away! There’s a dark place where they escape to. Glad you got the job done.
Great video! Woah I had watched it thru before I did the work. I got to the part where you put it all back together & I was like, "I'd better test this before I zip it all back up." Whoopsie. My gate locked shut 😅 Luckily I had noted the part where you mentioned the manual release. After I did the actuator reset it worked great. The hardest part was getting the panel back on. Thanks for the tutorial- very helpful.
So glad you found it helpful!! Haha we all do it at some point. I try to be honest when I do it too.
Super happy the video was helpful!!
Bought new part, going to complete tomorrow. Just to be clear, after cycling the unlock/lock 3 times, I have to cycle all the windows individually down and up 3 times?
Yes correct. How did the install go?
Went well. Video made it very easy. Thanks bro
@@martylueddeke7333 happy to hear!
Where did you source that 10mm socket wrench?😂
Thanks for keeping it short, sweet and accurate!
Special order! Had to wait ages to use it for one project. Currently on the waitlist again for another.
So, I’m pulling up on the two levers (emergency release because my original
component failed and i want to replace it like you did), trying to pull the tailgate closed while doing so since it’s kinda stuck half-ajar- and the door still won’t open. I’m pulling quite hard, and get it pulled high enough to make a “pop” noise, but the door still won’t give. Any thoughts? Thx!
Oh man. That’s a tough one. Maybe there’s something broken in your latch. Hope not. Try pushing in stead of pulling? I’d go out and take it apart to remind myself how it goes, but my fiancée is gone for the day. At this point I’d hit up Facebook groups with a video and see if anyone else has run into that same problem. If you’re in San Diego I’d say just cruise over.
Should the trunk be closed or open when completing the battery disconnect? Thank you!
I don’t think it matters. I did it with it closed.
Will this work if my rear hatch won’t open?
There's always a chance that it's your rear control module that has gone bad, but the bad latch is more often the issue.
How’s it holding up a year later?
@@_Tang0_ still good as new! Can’t believe it’s already been a year
Do you need to cycle the locks/windows if you disconnect your hatch while working on another part of the car? I was attempting to install a backup camera and disconnected the connector to the latch, reconnected it, and the latch stopped working. Trying to determine if I need to replace the assembly like in this video or if it’s a simpler fix. It was working fine beforehand
I believe if you disconnect the hatch at all you need to go through the initialization process like in the video. I’ve heard of people think they hat bad hatch lock actuators and all they do is that process and fixes it.
Awesome thank you so much I will give it a try! I appreciate the response!
@@nickjones9180 anytime!
Mahalo!! Worked great
Awesome! Happy to hear!!
Hello, I installed everything but when I disconnect the battery and do the locking and unlocking process it works only once or twice, from there it stops working, what do I do?
That’s pretty weird. It’s possible your control module is going bad too
Any advice for how to get the actuator out of the back hatch is locked shut?
It would be more difficult to pull the inside, trim off the hatch with the hatch close, but you can do it. Take that panel off and reach down towards the actuator. There is a side cover around the lever that you manually pull on to unlock and open the hatch. I mentioned it briefly in the video. Sorry I should have shown at more clearly.
Thanks!
Holy smokes!! My first super thanks! Thank you so much!
6 month update? I'm curious how the cheap amazon option is holding up.
Still working good as new!
I'm wondering why mine is not working. I bought one from Amazon. I got to work plugged it in, and nothing happened.
Did you do the reset process I mentioned in the video? Pull the battery and the sequence to initialize the locks?
Thank you good sir
You are very welcome
How to open the backlatch if it doesnt respond???
@@hotwheels295 you need to do it manually from inside the vehicle using those levers I showed in the video
Thank YOU!!!!
You’re welcome!! Thank YOU for watching. Comments like this are honestly super motivational.
Thanks.......
@@elaquel8952 was that honest or sarcastic? Lol
No...was honest from my hart.
I have the same problem with my Toyota 4runner 2004 and you hell me a lat. Thanks
Dillangarage? Were?
@@elaquel8952 I’m very happy tonight know the video was helpful for you!
Sometime when I see “……..” I think some one is making a joke. But I understand you were being honest. Thank you very much.
You're hilarious
@@rolandblaise1149 thank you!
i just pull the 10 amp ecu fuse to reset the system without a complete shutdown pulling the batt.....
Hey, that’s a good idea
Just want I needed
Awesome! Glad it helped. Let me know if you have any questions at all
I changed the actuator closed the rear hatch all I got was a click door didn't close all the way and it's not opening did the 3m battery term off locked unlocked doors 3 times still nothing
@@jeffjones8955 was it working partially before you changed it or not at all?
@@jeffjones8955 did you get it working?
@Dillan's Garage no I put the old one back in and it worked one time so I think I may have got a bad one from Amazon I'm now looking for a oem unit I hope it's not the switch
Sorry I dot now much Englis that way i waw yet Thanks
U will be doing it over in 3 months when that chinese pos part fails. Your lift bars are worn out also. It is supposed to go up by itself. That latch does not sound right either.
I appreciate your sentiment. It’s been almost a year and the latch is still working good as new.
I’m not sure why you say my gas struts are worn out. It does go up by itself.
I also said in the video that I’m testing the cheap one so I can be the guinea pig for everyone
Oooops if your actuator fails and you cannot open your hatch like the 99%.
You can open the actuator from the inside
there is a fuse, ETB-B or something like that, unplug it and it will reset it unit enough open it. But its probably failing
And if that fails them do it manually from inside