OM Systems IBIS and Starry Sky AF, Ask Rob Trek ep.402
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- Опубліковано 6 січ 2023
- Today I answer your questions on which IBIS to use and how to do Starry Sky AF on the OM System OM-1.
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Hi Rob. The five axes are yaw, pitch, roll, vertical and horizontal, which is different from what you described.
Darn it! I knew that. Not sure why I had a brain fart on that. Fortunately, I don’t think it makes everything else I said invalid. I’ll make a note in my next video and correct it. Thanks.
@@RobTrek I believe everything else you said about how the various IS modes operate is correct.
Thank you Rob, great explanation as always! When using Starry Sky AF is also the only time that I have the focusing confirmation beep sound on. I find it helpful.
How do you get it to beep?
@@vurhd For the OM1 it is under the Wrench menu, tab 3. If I recall it is on by default, but it is usually one of the first things that I turn off in my cameras (except here in the Starry AF case)
Thanks. Yes, the beep is helpful. It's hard to hear in the video so I should have mentioned it.
Thx, finally someone has explained clearly the difference between different Ibis mode in practice.
Thanks. I try.
Saving this one, Rob.
I always have a time of it trying to remember best starry sky settings in the moment.
On those rare nights when it's actually clear around home, I'm usually in panic mode to get out there and shoot while the moment lasts.
I know the feeling!
Thanks Rob 👍
Thank you!
Thanks Rob, for an excellent explanation of these features. I'm looking forward to using the Starry Sky AF soon.
Glad to help!
Excellent - AGAIN ❤❤❤❤
Thank you so much 😀
Love the video Rob.
Thanks!
Some great tips and tricks for Starry Sky AF Rob!
Thanks!
Hey Rob, if we are doing the HHHR function for astrophotography with Starry Sky AF, will the camera hunt for focus between each exposure in the stack?
If you aren't aware, there are a few astro photographers out there that have had great success leveraging the HHHR function on a tripod when shooting Astro and the camera will stack those exposures with alignment, in higher res than the default and noise will be dramatically reduced. A UA-camr called "Chasing Luminance" did a video or two about it around a year ago, but others have shared their experiences as well.
I haven't tried it yet, but I know HHHR doesn't hunt between shots. I'll check out the other channel. Thanks.
Good video thank Rob
Thanks!
Thanks!
Thank you!
Thanks…useful to know.
Glad it was helpful!
A good explanation, Vertical is also good for panning in portrate mode
Thanks for the tip, Mark!
Tried them all. The SIS-1 has been the most reliable.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
Just another thing I experienced regarding IS. I tested extensively the IS settings for using a Olympus 100-400 f5-f6.3 lens. The lens has it's own IS built in (3 stops I've read). However believe it or not, you will get MORE keepers with the lens IS in the OFF position and allowing the S-IS1 setting on an OM-1 do the job.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I didn't do extensive testing, but I thought it worked best with sync IS. Generally long focal lengths work better with the lens stabilization. All that said, there's no substitute for experience.
Hi Rob, Happy New Year. I was out this morning with my OM-1 & wanted to shoot a panorama of a landscape to catch early morning light on the land with the mist clearing. I couldn’t find a Pano mode which I used frequently with my EM-5.Is there a Pano mode in the OM-1? If not how does one do a Pano? For a camera marketed for landscapes it seems an odd omission. Thx in advance. Ian
I think oly said something about starry sky and best results, are to have about 5-7 stars in the focus area. So I also use the bigger focus area. Pleiades and Orion is mostly my focus stars 😊 but for milky-way, I try to find the brightest closest to milk.
Makes sense. Thanks!
Thanks Rob, once again good information! Question - I have my 1 mk3 setup to power down as quick as possible to preserve battery which it now does well thanks to one of your previous videos but if I put the camera to my ear before it shuts down I can hear a whirring motor type sound. I thought this was the image stabilisation running but it does it even when turned off (on the lens)
Any idea what it is?
It is the image stabilization. Since the sensor is "floating", it uses the image stabilization motors to hold it in place.
@@RobTrek Thanks Rob, it's amazing to think they are running all the time - brushless I hope!
Good stuff Rob, pretty sure all my cams set at auto for IBIS. I never knew that about the hand shake frequency, gotta cut down on my coffee, should Olympus have an IBIS mode 4 for coffee where you could dial in the number of coffees you have drank.. heehee Cheers Rob!
Cheers!
What about auto IS mode, is it effective? BTW, the six axes refer to up/down, left/right, forward/backward, plus the rotation around each one of those. Only the forward/backward motion is not stabilized.
Thanks. You're the 2nd person to point out I described the IS system incorrectly. I'll post an update soon. As for auto IS, I don't have a reliable way to compare the differences. I've tried shooting a grid pattern, then panning and shaking in the different modes. It's beyond me how to test it properly. Personally, I just use auto IS and turn it off for tripods.
@@RobTrek Thank you for replying. I too set it to auto IS.
Hi Rob good info on starry sky AF however you don’t mention what exposure settings you use on the camera every time I’ve tried using my camera the exposure compensation meter just flashes and adjusting exposure, iso, etc doesn’t make any difference are you supposed to use the ‘live comp’ feature in the camera to when using starry sky AF?
You have to set the exposure in manual mode and ignore the EV meter. Generally, for wide field astro like milkyway shots, you will use the 300 rule to calculate shutter speed. So for example, 300 / 12mm lens = 25 secs. Then set your aperture wide open, say f2 and your iso at 1000. Adjust your iso so that your histogram spikes center left about 1/3. There are a lot of variables at play, but that should get you started.
@@RobTrek Hi Rob thanks for your prompt reply🙂that’s great you said ignore the EV meter it’s really annoying because there seem’s to be nothing you can do stop it! 😏 Regarding lenses I have the 12-40 pro lens and the 40-150 pro I would like to use this lens to do a shot of M32 Orion Nebula. out the two lens I’m using, which one would you recommend?
Rob when I have bracketing set up I need to press shutter button 3 times or set up multidrive to enable the bracketed images to be taken with one press. When turning on bracketing (only) is it possible to achieve this with one press?
Put he shutter mode into Continuous High. I actually answered this question last week for another viewer here: ua-cam.com/video/7qWhl3GIajE/v-deo.html
What did you use to get the andromeda? Still olympus gear? 😊
Yes, the OM-1 and 300mm f/4. I put all the details in the notes here: flic.kr/p/2o1zZ9T
Hey don’t you have a video of the northern lights??? I really can’t figure out what installings I shall use? 🙏
Sorry I don't have anything on northern lights. Check this link to get started. learnandsupport.getolympus.com/learn-center/photography-tips/astrophotography/photographing-the-aurora
@@RobTrek ahh okey thank you for replying 🤩🙏
Hi Rob. Could you please tell me how to activate the SCP when in video mode on my EM5 Mk2.
Sorry, I don't see a way to activate SCP in video mode. I can do it on my EM5 Mk3 in the movie menu under display settings, but there is no such line item on the Mk2.
@@RobTrek thank you Rob for your help. It is great having someone with your knowledge of the Olympus Micro Four Thirds system. Ron
Rob, I have just two lenses for my OM Systems OM1, the 12-100 F4 Pro and the 100-400 F5-6.3. Should I have Lens I.S. Priority 'On' for the Pro lens and 'Off' for the non-Pro lens? I believe that the Pro lenses can co-ordinate with the camera but the non-Pro lens can't. Am I correct?
The Olympus lenses, both pro and non-pro, should work with the camera IBIS for better stabilization. There is some discussion about the 100-400mm working better with Lens IS off. pen-and-tell.de/2023/01/frag-pat-100-400-und-stabi/
On the Olympus Pro lenses the switch on the lens will turn both Lens and Camera IS on and off if IS is turned on in the camera.
It's the Panasonic lenses that you have to choose between Lens or Camera IS.
@@RobTrek Thank you, unfortunately the linked web article is in German.
I used google chrome and turned on the translation. Works pretty well.
I tried Starry Focus and have problems. Is there some secret? OM1 with Olympus 7-14 and 9mm Lumix. Tried different focus areas, Starry AF settings. Does not focus for me. Thanks.
I have trouble sometimes too. It really only happens in skies with a lot of light pollution. This causes less contrast between the sky and the stars. What you can try is using a smaller focus area and pick the brightest star you can find to box in. With the 7-14mm, zoom in to 14mm first. This will give the AF more to "bite" onto in the sky. Once you acquire focus, put the camera into mf mode and the zoom back out to 7mm if desired.
U R the best, as always. Thanks. I will ensure the sky is more light pollution free and try again@@RobTrek
Are those starry af settings from a software update?
Starry sky af comes as a feature in the camera. I don't think it can be added via firmware...for now.
Does starry sky AF work with Panasonic lenses?
Yes. I just tried it on my 25mm f/1.7. No problem.
Hi Rob, did you notice the rolling motion at the end of the panning when doing video? I experience this on both the older em1 ii and the om1. And it is more obvious when panning fast. I don't see people talking about it, but I think it's very unlikely that I have two faulty units. I have compared them with Lumix cameras on hands and did not find such problems. I think they really need to address this if this is a universal problem, it's a shame for such a good IBIS system.
I need to know more about your settings and focal length so I can duplicate what is happening. For example, 4k30, 8bit, M-IS1, 25mm, ISO200, Shutter speed 60, Aperture f/2.8. My initial thoughts are that it's probably the Image Stabilization system causing this. I hadn't noticed it before but I wasn't looking for it as I don't pan much when doing video for youtube.
@@RobTrek I find this happens with all focal length, but just for reference, I just tested it with the Oly 45 1.8 and panasnoic 10-25 at both end. 4k30, shutter speed 1/60, f2.8.
I found that if you pan the camera perfectly horizontal, the rolling motion in the end is very minimal, if not any. but if your camera is not perfectly leveled, for example, tilt your camera down so the level gauge shows full bars below the perfect horizontal, and pan it at slightly quicker speed, 60 degree per second for example, you should be able to see the footage rolling against your panning direction at the end, the final adjustment should take around half second, roughly measured.
I am pretty sure it's caused by IBIS, because this rolling motion is not present when I turn the IBIS off, but it is there for both MS-1 and MS-2
@@jtc8565 Thanks for the details. So it probably is the IBIS. The only other camera I can compare is my Panasonic S5, which is known for rolling shutter effects. I assume you are comparing maybe the GH5 or GH6?
@@RobTrek I used to own a G9, and I did some comparison back then. According to my memory, it is not completely absent, but very well controlled. Now I have a S1R on hand, and its performance is similar to the G9, maybe not as good, but still better than my Olys.
Thanks! Good stabilization tips! Have a cuppa on me.
Thank you!