Rob, I just moved from SONY after 10 years to OM System and got my first OM-1 last week. I am so glad to found your videos to set my camera correctly. You have done an amazing job in coaching this. Thank you so very much. Regards, Vijay
Thanks Rob - great video. Have had my OM1 for a couple of weeks, upgraded from an OMD EM5II - similar but different. I really find your more basic tutorials very helpful - clear, concise, not too fast, not too technical all delivered with a very pleasant voice. Look forward to more.
A classic Rob Trek instructional video: clear, concise, and eschewing jargon, and including items and procedures applicable across all OMDS/Olympus cameras.
Thank you, just returned from Newfoundland and it is a miracle I got decent pictures... steep learning curve and I learn something every day. Thanks again
My new OM finally arrived! Thank you for your video, it’s just what I needed. I have read the manual several times while waiting for key cords missing from my order. Now I’m finally ready to set up settings and your video was posted 2 days ago. Prefect timing. You Rock!
This is probably the best tutorial I've seen on YT, concise, useful and well presented with no fuss. I was having a tough time trying to learn my new camera with a pdf guide but this made it all straightforward
Hello, Rob, can never thank you enough for making these great tutorials!! Truly shortens the learning curve! Great Job! Looking forward to more of your great videos on photography.
Just bought an OM-1 and your videos are excellent tutorials on a very complex, versatile and beautifully designed camera. Thank you. I moved over from Canon and some heavy L-Series lenses. My shoulders and lower back haven't stopped expressing their gratitude.
That was so helpful. I have just moved to an OM1 and your video has saved me a lot of time, for which I am truly grateful. I now feel on top of the menu structure and able to set the camera up for the various types of photography I am interested in. Following your very clear step by step instructions the menu seems now to be pretty logical and easy to implement. As I said, it would have taken me ages to get to this point had I not watched your video a couple of times. I have subscribed to your channel and look forward to learning more. I am now about to raid your library and am sure I will learn a lot. People like me (amateurs) really do benefit from videos from people like you (knowledgeable) and are genuinely appreciative of the effort and time you put into these nuggets of gold. Many of us would be hopelessly lost without them. Thank you.
@Rob Trek - Wow, you are killing it lately. Thank you so much for all of the education and wealth of content lately. I hope good things come of it. You rock.
Thanks Rob for a great video explaining the OM-1! I got mine at the beginning of May and your video helped me understand the best settings to use until I get to know it better. You've done a great job!
OMG, Excellent video. Have not had time to work on learning about this camera for about a month. Found your video and it made me learn so much so quickly. Thank you! Looking forward to watching your photography and other OM-1 D videos.
Having just got my own OM-1 after waiting many long weeks for it to arrive, I'll make a point of viewing your videos to help me learn about the camera's features and how to set it up. Many thanks Rob.
Thanks Rob, so glad I found your videos. Have gone for a Canon, which I’ve used for years to an OM 1. So different and I was beginning to regret my decision to change. Your video has helped immensely.
Just purchased my OM-1 and stumbled on this tutorial. The information is spot on and well done. Thanks so much. Have subscribed and will watch further content on the OM-1.
This was an incredible video, clear, concise and in terms we can all understand. I have subscribed because I suspect the future holds more informative content. Thank you.
Very nice. I actually set up some custom modes earlier today with the OM-1; two modes based on aperture mode. I soon saw a mistake I did... * I set up the custom modes with the 12-45/4 attached. Problem: default aperture then was f/4, irrespective of attached lens To fix the problem, I redid the customization with the fastest lens I had in my bag: the 20/1.4 * Now, the default aperture equals the largest aperture if the lens I attach. So... my conclusion: attach the fastest lens you have when you set up the custom modes - at least if you want the default aperture to be max opening for the lens.
Hi Rob, I just purchased a new OM-1 & still have my OM-D EM-1 MKII that I have owned for 3 years, your video for the setup has helped me heaps, as I have usually only used Auto on the MKII, thanks very much & I have subbed you as well, back in the 70's I purchased the first 35 OM1 which took amazing images Cheers Ric
@@richoffmann I don't have any tutorials on this. When I do sunsets/sunrise, I generally do exposure bracketing because the dynamic range is too much for a single shot. If it has to be a single shot, I must pick what I want to be exposed properly. The landscape or the sky? Generally, you can cleanly recover highlights and shadows within +/- 2 Stops. So keep that in mind when exposing for a single shot or bracketing. Hope that helps. -Rob
@@RobTrek Thanks so much Rob for your assiststance, I have found if you use the enhanced colour & change the WB auto to cliudy the images are nearly spot on all the best Ric
Thanks, Rob. My OM 1 is in the post although during the wait I have downloaded and began reading the Manual. Well there may well be some camera improvements over my current Mkiii but the manual for the OM1 is Olympus complicated mess. I’ve now looked at video #1 in your series and was pleasantly surprised how easy the functions are to understand when projected in a clear and concise manner. I look forward to viewing the ongoing videos and it should go without saying that I have subscribed to your channel. Super.
This was an excellent tutorial and exactly what I was looking for to help with my new OM-1 Digital. Thank you. I look forward to rewatching this and watch your other videos.
Thank you a great set of informative UA-cam sessions. The best explanations and logic on the settings and use. I have just purchased the OM1 after a break from photography for a few years and previously a Nikon man. Following your library with interest. Shout if you ever visit London, UK and I will buy you a beer !
Hello Rob, Thank you for producing an excellent series of videos on the OM-1. I have just ordered my OM-1 and should get it later in the week. I have been using the Panasonic G9, GH5 and GH6 with the Leica series of lenses, but I thought I should use the OM-1 as my primary camera for photocentric activities. I have used your videos to put myself through an intensive course of learning about the OM-1. The clarity you provide when using the various functions of the camera are invaluable. Your detailed understand, knowledge and advice will assist me no end. It is my understanding that the auto focusing of the Leica lenses on the OM-1 should be fine, but the lens Panasonic O.I.S. system will not be compatible with that of OM System 5-Axis Sync IS camera bodies . So my question is does this apply to all Panasonic O.I.S. lenses or just certain O.I.S. lenses in the range? My Panasonic/Leica lenses, which use O.I.S system, are the F1:4.0-6.3/100-400mm Zoom and the F:2.8 /200mm Prime, although I do have other O.I.S lenses in my Panasonic/Leica lens collection. I have already purchased the Olympus F:1.2 /25 mm Pro lens and I eagerly await the OM System 90mm Macro lens, which I believe will be released in Australia in March or April 2023. Once again Rob, I can't thank you enough! With kind regards, Bill
As far as I know, you will have to choose between the IBIS or Lens IS. They won't work together - no dual sync stabilization possible. For focal lengths below 150mm, I'd recommend using the IBIS. For longer telephoto lenses, use the Lens OIS. Since I don't own any Panasonic Telephoto lenses, I can't directly share my experience. On my 12-32mm OIS lens, the OM System IBIS is way better than the len's OIS.
Really helpful, clear video. Just got my OM1 a couple weeks ago, and holey moley the menus are sooo different (with so many more available options) compared to those of my previous, 9 year old OM-D. Thanks!
Great info. Enjoying your videos. Got my OM-1 about 3 weeks ago, and just added the 40-150 2.8 Pro lens. It's a beast of a system. Now to figure it all out lol
I got a grip quite quickly after getting my camera also a second battery but struggling to get a wireless remote control! Loving my camera, changed fron Nikon D500 with lots of Nikon and other manufacturers lenses. Wanted lighter system.
I use a Pixco wireless trigger which works fine. It plugs into the 2.5mm, same as Fujifilm. Of course, nothing like OM System original equipment. I myself switched from a Nikon D750 many years ago to the E-M10ii. No regrets. Check out Randy's flickr page. He shoots Olympus and Nikon d500. www.flickr.com/photos/98163474@N04
Thanks Rob, that was great information and I have set up my OM-1 in both modes as you suggested. Sorry your vision is deteriorating especially as a photographer.
Hi Rob, great, thank you for your quick response!! I've got it now saved on C1 and the second details saved on C2. Rob, in case I would change a details while using C2 i.e. and want to keep the added/changed details in C2, what is to click on? Will go on with your tutorials !
Great videos Rob, I just bought an OM-1 so its really helping me. I wonder if you would know why my camera keeps cutting the video after about 5 seconds? I tried a different memory card and it allowed a 12 second video but then the next videos were just 5 seconds. Hope you can help!
Hi. Most likely you are using a memory card that is too slow and/or doesn't have enough space. Make sure you have a V30 rated sdcard and 32gb free. When I put my own class 10 cards in, it stops recording after 4 seconds. But all my V30 cards work no problem.
@@RobTrek Thanks for the response Rob, hmm it's still a mystery. My cards are speed class 10, V30, UHS speed class 3, bus interface UHS-I, is that the same card you use and it works no problem with recording 4k or sequential photos? I formatted another card with those stats and it recorded for 1 minute before cutting out, but the next video was 7 sec and the next 6 secs.
@@RobTrek Such a pity that such a clear communicator is not given access to a mark 2! I'm thinking about upgrading myself but need convincing. With the apparent improvement in AF success, removal of face detection and instead inclusion of human listed under subject detection, I was wondering if your recommendations for basic users will change eg. Suggested target for CAF, button assignment for subject detection and setup focus priority. Appreciate your help
Hi Rob I have just discovered your videos and I am a beginner photographer with the OM-1. I’m like a teenager with a Ferrari! I only have one lens which is the Zuiko 100-400 Zoom as most of my photography will be birds. Therefore should I bother with the first Custom Setting you recommended? I’m guessing it could be good as a base and set the other Custom settings up using this base? I’d like to have a Custom Setting for Pro Capture and I’m guessing you have a video on this? Cheers and thanks for the great videos.
I made a video with my birding settings here: ua-cam.com/video/telXq-lT-vI/v-deo.html After watching that one, let me know if you have anymore questions. -Rob
@@RobTrek thanks so much. I will watch it. Do you think it’s a good idea to save the basic settings in C1 like your video, anyway? I’ve done that already and can build from there I’m guessing.
Hi Rob so I have continued on with this video and also watched the one you sent a link to. I have made 2 changes to your recommended settings and want to be sure they are correct. I have added bird detect and I have AF target to All.
@@RobTrek The good news I found it is on "Bird", I change it to off, but it does not stay off. Just defaults back to "bird". I have been a Nikon 750 & Z7 user but thought I would try OM1, as the lenses and camera are much lighter. I plan to watch all your tutorials as they are very helpful. Thank you again for your assistance.
Sorry I missed your reply, Leslie. That is weird. It should stay off. I'll see if I can duplicate the problem and resolve it. It's never happened to me.
Hello there and thanks for all the great information on the OM systems. I am a new owner of the OM-1 mk2 camera. Can the histogram be moved to appear in another location instead of top left position?
Thanks for all the great videos you do about the OM-1 which I just purchased along with the Olympus 100-400mm. My question is, do I use only IBIS and leave the lens stabilization off or use both. Thanks.
Hi Rob, your video is absolutely great and everything is understandable for me - BUT - coming to the end to save the settings on C1 i.e. the camera don't save it and the settings are always as before the changes. What I've done wrong??? May I ask you to explain the final settings please? I'm German and the camera language is German as well.. when I come to save in C1 there are 3 button: First Abrufen with yes or no. Second Zuweisen with übernehmen or zurücksetzen. Third Einstellungen speichern with beibehalten or verwerfen. I tried is 4 times now without success. Maybe one or more of the settings to save on C1 is wrong... I would much appreciate to hear from you !!
To save the settings, you want to use the 2nd line "Zuweisen". Make sure you keep the mode dial in the correct position "A" when saving. Don't move it to C1 until after you save the settings.
G'day Rob. Thanks for your great videos on the OM1. I have one ordered and can't wait to I receive it. Is there any problems with charging the battery in camera or should I invest in a stand alone charger? Kind regards Warren
I've not heard of anyone having issues charging in-camera. I just don't like doing it. Call me overly cautious. Batteries can swell and/or explode. But the main reason I charge externally is convenience. I have two batteries, I can put them on the charger overnight and I'm ready to go the next day. I bought a 3rd party dual charger for $16 on Amazon and it works fine.
Hi Robb, Is there a way to name the custom settings C1-4 on the camera? I would forget them if not using the camera frequently? Thanks. I have always enjoyed your detailed explanations on OM cameras. Do you have an episode on GPS for the OM1? It would be nice if OM system make a hot shoe unit for GSP instead of relying on cell phone.
Another nice instructional video. One question if you adjust the base rear LCD brightness like you did, will it change the base brightness for exposure compensation as well? Not sure if I would recommend to a beginner silent shutter. It would could lead to confusion with the flash
Thanks. Adjust the screen brightness doesn't affect the exposure. However, the image will look brighter or darker than it actually is on your camera. Most of the advanced features of the OM-1 are used in silent shutter mode. So I went with recommending silent shutter. I'm working on new flash tutorials and will address the shutter mode then.
Excellent video, thank you for doing this. One comment, there are a few clips where we can hear an annoying high frequency artifact in the audio. I'm not sure where does that come from?
Thanks. I actually can't hear that sound because it's above my hearing frequency. It occurs around 11khz. Others have mentioned it and I've tried to eliminate it via notch filters. I've recently identified the source and will try to fix it.
I've been looking for something small enough to carry with me outside. As I get older, I find the weight of a full frame is getting to be a bit too much. I use Sony for in studio/on location. But I've decided to try OM Systems for this particular use. Actually, I was very surprised to see a mirrorless named OM-1. As I put myself through Uni with an OM-1 film camera a very long time ago.
SH2 is a high speed setting. Anit-flicker slows the camera down to analyse the flicker rate before taking a pictures. You wouldn't be able to achieve SH2 fps rates otherwise.
Just bought my Om-1, so thiis is very useful, Rob. If you set say, your example for C1 and when you are out and about, can you still just tweak the settings if need be?
Hello Mr Trek. I find your videos really helpful. As a long term full frame Canon user recently changed, I have a question. On my Canon 5Div, with BBF when I focus where I want, if I release the back button focus, the camera stays focused on the plane until I start shooting again. If the bird for example makes a new pose in the same spot, the camera is already focused. I cant get my OM-1 to do that. Am I missing something?
The camera looks so good, I haven't had one in my hands yet. The one thing I wish OM would do is put an aperture ring on the lense (like fugi) then let front dial be SS and back dial EC. That would be, for me, the perfect set up.
It's a great camera. I'm really enjoying mine. Not many companies are putting aperture rings on their lenses anymore except Fuji. Would be nice though.
I set mine up so front dial is aperture (nearest where the aperture ring would be) and rear dial is shutter. I don't feel a need for a dedicated EC button as I like full control. Using an EC button is not much different from shooting on Auto. Of course, the OM-1 dials are not good. Especially the stiff and hard-to-access front dial. My EM1.2 is also configured that way.
Rob thank you, clear, concise and simple. however, I have one problem and can't seem to have the live view display on the monitor consistently. I have to turn the camera off and then back on to see the monitor but much of the time that doesn' t work and I have to put my eye to the EVF to see the menu and the super control panel. Help please. This is worth two coffees.
Not having camera in-hand, I have to make some broad strokes here. First, if necessary, backup your settings in OM Workspace or the OM Share app on your phone. Now do a full reset in the wrench menu -> 6.Reset//Clock/Language -> Reset/Initialize Settings -> Initialize All Settings -> OK. At this point the live view should be working as expected. If not, then the next thing to try is cleaning the eye sensor located just below the evf. Remove the rubber eye piece and use a micro fiber cloth. If there is still no joy, then there is likely a problem with your camera and will need to be repaired. Let me know. -Rob
Allow me anther take on basic settings. Unless you have a specific use case in mind that requires the A mode (macro) or the S mode (sports/action), just leave the camera in P (Program) mode and take advantage of the camera "smarts". This is a great setting for "walking around" photography - when you see something interesting, frame and take the shot, letting the camera choose aperture and shutter speed. Then, look at the image you took and ask yourself "Can I improve this shot?". Maybe you want to blur the background so you want to open up the aperture; maybe you want more background in focus, so you want to stop down the camera. If that is the case, then you don't have to leave the P mode - just use the program shift mode (rear dial) and get the settings you need, and take the shot. This works not just for beginners - I have been using this approach for a long time. Sometimes that first (P) shot is all you are going to get - the scene changes, the light changes, etc. So getting that first shot quickly is important. I also generally leave ISO at the default ISO 200 setting - I only change that (or go to auto ISO) if the light is difficult. Anyway, just a different view on this issue.
AS lways - I somehow managed to scramble a bunch of settings, and started over, used your video as a starting point. Quick question - the option for "CAF/MF" seems to have disappeared from the list of available modes. I'm usingCAF, and have a button set to toggle between manual and CAF, which I find works well, but wondered where the CAF/MF went? Thanks,
You typically use exposure compensation in high dynamic range scenes. For example, when taking pictures of people sitting on a rock with a sunset behind them. A normal exposure would make the people too dark. So you would dial in +2 exposure compensation to brighten them up. It's also used a lot for bracketing and hdr.
@@RobTrek thanks will have to play around with that.... In that scenario you have described would the +2 compensation blow the highlights in the sunset?
Hi Rob. Thanks for another great video. Can you tell me what settings are needed to output HDMI using a decent smart phone as a monitor ?. I have set up with a video capture card and decent cables to the phones. I have tried two apps so far, USB Camera and USB Camera Pro. I have tried different settings in the app and the camera. I am getting a phone screen that just shows lines of interference colour or a black screen. I am using a modern Ulefone X10 Pro and an older OnePlusOne phone. Both are compatible with the apps I have downloaded. I have tried the capture card to connect a video camera to my computer and tested the output. If I go into Zoom or WhatsApp the Sony video camera works so it looks like the capture card and connectors are OK. I have looked at some UA-cam videos of others using the same card and connectors and they seem to be able to get a good image on the screen straight away without going into any detailed settings. Do you have any advice on what the setting should be on the Olympus EM1 Mark 1 to output the correct HDMI signal. I would appreciate any help. I have been trying to get it going for 2 days. PS. I have tried the setup on 2 cameras. The Olympus EM1 and the Nikon D7100. Same problem on both.
I don't have the EM1.1, so can't test it my hdmi setup. That said, I found that my hdmi capture devices will only accept 1080, 60p. So I have to set my camera to 1080, 60p. Also, I recently purchased a 4k hdmi-usb capture device for my phone and it doesn't work at all. It works fine when plugged into my computer, but not my phone. My other 1080 hdmi capture devices do work with my phone. I have a cheap generic 1080 hdmi to usb-a, and a J5 Create 1080 hdmi to USB-C that work great with my phone. Also, I found some apps didn't work with these, except one called USB Camera Viewr by Homesofft LLC. So you may need to try a few different apps even though they say the are all compatible. Hope that helps.
@@RobTrek Thanks Rob. That is really helpful. Will send you another cup of coffee when I have finished work. 😊 I will try the app you suggested. It may also be a situation where my capture card is one that isn't going to work on a phone. I will buy another that is USB 2.0 and see if that cures the problem.
@@RobTrek Hi Rob. In update, I have found that the EM1 Mark 1 does not support HDMI out for live viewing. The EM1 Mark 11 onwards does. As soon as you plug the HDMI cable in the EM1-1 the screen goes off. If you have an auto zoom lens on the camera that will retract as well. With the Mark 1 you can use the Olympus Wi Fi app "OM Share" that does work really well. In Pro situations, users may prefer a camera that can use a cabled set up and an external HDMI monitor. The EM1 mark 1 has an AV out from a multi connector. I wonder if that will work with the correct adapter to a HDMI monitor or a phone. ?
Rob - Since your settings place all stills and videos in SD # 1 that card is likely to fill up first. So, shouldn’t you assign the read from card to SD #2 in order to play back all stills? Curt Smith
That works if you don't want to review your movies. I sometimes assign movies to be recorded on SD #2. It's easy enough to switch viewing between card slots.
Hi again. I only have one SD card and it’s currently in slot 2. Because of cost I’m not in a hurry to buy another card. Is that ok? Or should I invest in another card?
You're fine with 1 card. If your current card is UHS-II, great. If not, then your next card should be. You'll get much better performance overall, but particularly when you use high speed continuous shutter modes and Pro-Capture.
Rob Trek, Can you please help with the back LCD display brightness of the M-1 mark II. I cannot find a way to adjust the brightness to be the same as am seeing a subject. So, the problem is the screen in bright but when I take a pic, the final image appears much darker. Thanks
I am racking my brain here. I don’t shoot video and I feel I just bought the z6iii wasting my money and should have kept my and maybe have kept my OM-1 with the 40-150, 12-40. I now have the NIKKOR 180-600, 24-120, and the 105. I just felt I was missing something with my Micro4/3. All of my pictures seemed soft when comparing to FF pictures. I guess I pixel peeped too much (which I guess was a habit I picked up from watching too many UA-cam videos. But really, shouldn’t the m4/3’s pictures be just as sharp and crisp as FF? I do shoot wildlife, I shoot landscape, and I do shoot macro. so I’m your honest opinion, should I trade my z6iii back to the OM-1? Or just keep the Z6iii and get used to it? I’m no professional, but I do love to print and I do love to post my pictures. Help me make up my mind
I think the Nikon is great and you should keep it. The OM System has some advantages in wildlife and macro. But ultimately, either system should get you great results. I don't see any reason the m4/3 was not as sharp as the ff camera. I own the Sony A7Rv with it's 60mp sensor and the Fuji X-H2 with it's 40mp sensor. I really don't see much difference in normal shots. If you need to crop, then the higher res full frame cameras give you some flexibility there. But with the 24mp Nikon, you won't get that much. Dynamic range and iso performance will definitely be a lot better with the Nikon. So if you're pushing your images in post processing a lot, then FF will give you more flexibility.
Hi, sorry, I wanted to ask you something. In the histogram of om1 there is a peak or mountain colored green. What does this parameter indicate? Obviously it moves with the entire histogram based on how I want to expose the photo. Hi thank you very much
My comment is that a novice trying to get started by the instructions that are great for someone with knowledge. I ask for beginner instructions with step by step help and I’m sure would be great if I could find them. I read in an introductory article. I found them I thought. But all but my recorder were there. I’m sure that my threat of getting my money back would scare you to death and probably break your bank $69.00. If it is at all possible send me basic set up procedures as you do promise. Thanks for letting an old man 85 y/0 next week and this recorder was a part of that. Bye now and have a great week end. BARRY
Hello Rob. A couple of weeks agoo i saw a reaction of one of your subscribers who had the same problem as im having with video. Each last frame of a scene is produced as a 'freeze frame' in editting, resulting in a lot of extra work getting those out first. You wrote you tested this and had the same result, and that you would ask some people how to fix it. Did you ever get an answer of those people? Or from om systems?
@@RobTrek Thank you so much Rob. For us, video makers, it's really important to get this camera working. Since the importer in Europe even refuses to regonise the fault.
Hi, Mario. I sent a support request directly to OM Systems today. I'll let you know if I hear anything. I usually get a response in a few days. Here is the text I sent. /// This is in regard to the Olympus OM-1 Digital Camera. Specifically, recording video. At the end of every recorded video file, several frames are frozen. So if recording at 30fps, the last 1 second of video, roughly 15 frames are identical. This makes playing video clips back to back impossible without a momentary "freeze". I tried different variations of codec, framerate, and picture profiles. Others have reported the same thing on their OM-1. This did not happen with the E-M1 Mark III. Thank you, -Rob aka Rob Trek
@@RobTrek Hello Rob. Im really grateful! I hope they will listen to you, because this bug has been in it from day one the camera came out. I have my holiday video still laying untouched here. With over 2000 scenes I don't even want to start with it. Thank you so much!
@@RobTrek Hello Rob. Sorry to bother you again, but have you heard anything from them by now? I found 12 other people, most on facebook, with the same problem. The strange thing is, when they report it to their importer or to OM-System they all get diffrent answers. Some very strange aswell. "This problem is unknown to us, therefore we think it must be a user error"??? Or, " just dont use the 4K HLG 10 bit 422 option", wich i think is VERY strange, since they used exactly that as a selling point for people who want to use it as a video camera? I wrote them about that and now they decided not to answer me at all anymore. Wich makes me regret that i sold my M1-mark 3 and bought this one.
Rob: Here is ANOTHER time I need Help! I just bought a second OM-1 from ebay. For all intents & purposes, the camera works fine; however, it fails to focus in S-AF mode. Is there some combination of settings that could cause this? Well, partial False Alarm! I RESET everything, and now S-AF works fine, Whew! Any idea what would cause this? I _thought_ S-AF was working fine, I've been shooting with the camera, and I use S-AF a lot, but I've been playing around with different settings ... I _CERTAINLY do not want to run onto this situation on a Wedding shoot! A RESET is far too risky in the field ... at a Wedding. Any ideas? Thanks so much.
@@RobTrek Same camera, I tried turning "Release Priority" for S-AF to ON. Then did some tests. The results were that the camera still focuses in S-AF mode! There must have been some other setting that was off. Before resetting, Here are some observations: The lens had no MF clutch, and all the options for shutter release included "xxx+MF" -- no other options were shown in the menu; C-AF and Starry Sky were the only choices that could be chosen. Thoughts?
Thanks Rob for a great tutorial, I purchased the Oolympus OM 1 yesterday so it's been very helpful. I followed your instructions and created a custom mode for general photography and another for action. It all works fine with one exception. Now when I choose P, A or M mode, they all have the settings I assigned to action photography! Can you please help with this. Thank you!
Thanks
Thank you!
I am a long-time Nikon user and as such I had no idea how to set up my brand new OM-1. Thank you so much for your tutorial.
Rob, I just moved from SONY after 10 years to OM System and got my first OM-1 last week. I am so glad to found your videos to set my camera correctly. You have done an amazing job in coaching this. Thank you so very much. Regards, Vijay
Thank you. Mr. Trek. You're the OM Systems manual that is not included in the box!
Glad to help!
No manual ?
@@vreeke777 he means a useful one! And he’s right. Olympus assumes that we already know everything!
Thanks Rob - great video. Have had my OM1 for a couple of weeks, upgraded from an OMD EM5II - similar but different. I really find your more basic tutorials very helpful - clear, concise, not too fast, not too technical all delivered with a very pleasant voice. Look forward to more.
Thank you!
A classic Rob Trek instructional video: clear, concise, and eschewing jargon, and including items and procedures applicable across all OMDS/Olympus cameras.
Thanks again, Thomas!
Thank you, just returned from Newfoundland and it is a miracle I got decent pictures... steep learning curve and I learn something every day. Thanks again
Wonderful!
My new OM finally arrived! Thank you for your video, it’s just what I needed. I have read the manual several times while waiting for key cords missing from my order. Now I’m finally ready to set up settings and your video was posted 2 days ago. Prefect timing. You Rock!
Congrats on your new camera! I'll try and publish more in the coming weeks. Thanks.
This is probably the best tutorial I've seen on YT, concise, useful and well presented with no fuss. I was having a tough time trying to learn my new camera with a pdf guide but this made it all straightforward
Hello, Rob, can never thank you enough for making these great tutorials!! Truly shortens the learning curve! Great Job! Looking forward to more of your great videos on photography.
Always love your Olympus and general photography videos, Rob. You're a star!
Just bought an OM-1 and your videos are excellent tutorials on a very complex, versatile and beautifully designed camera. Thank you. I moved over from Canon and some heavy L-Series lenses. My shoulders and lower back haven't stopped expressing their gratitude.
Congrats on your new camera! I'm sure you'll enjoy it as much as I do.
That was so helpful. I have just moved to an OM1 and your video has saved me a lot of time, for which I am truly grateful. I now feel on top of the menu structure and able to set the camera up for the various types of photography I am interested in. Following your very clear step by step instructions the menu seems now to be pretty logical and easy to implement. As I said, it would have taken me ages to get to this point had I not watched your video a couple of times. I have subscribed to your channel and look forward to learning more. I am now about to raid your library and am sure I will learn a lot. People like me (amateurs) really do benefit from videos from people like you (knowledgeable) and are genuinely appreciative of the effort and time you put into these nuggets of gold. Many of us would be hopelessly lost without them. Thank you.
Thank you!
This is true!
@Rob Trek - Wow, you are killing it lately. Thank you so much for all of the education and wealth of content lately. I hope good things come of it. You rock.
Thanks, Marco. I try.
Thanks Rob for a great video explaining the OM-1! I got mine at the beginning of May and your video helped me understand the best settings to use until I get to know it better. You've done a great job!
Thanks! Glad to help.
OMG, Excellent video. Have not had time to work on learning about this camera for about a month. Found your video and it made me learn so much so quickly. Thank you! Looking forward to watching your photography and other OM-1 D videos.
Glad it helped!
Having just got my own OM-1 after waiting many long weeks for it to arrive, I'll make a point of viewing your videos to help me learn about the camera's features and how to set it up. Many thanks Rob.
Always glad to help! Congrats on your new camera.
Thanks Rob, so glad I found your videos. Have gone for a Canon, which I’ve used for years to an OM 1. So different and I was beginning to regret my decision to change. Your video has helped immensely.
Happy to help!
Just purchased my OM-1 and stumbled on this tutorial. The information is spot on and well done. Thanks so much. Have subscribed and will watch further content on the OM-1.
Glad it was helpful!
Great vid Rob. Just moving up from OMD E-M1 to OM1 System. Will be back for more OM1 gems as I progress. Many thanks, Ray, London, UK.
Really appreciated your approach to the set-up. Your directions were very easy to follow!
Glad it was helpful!
I asked yesterday and today you deliver. Thank you! Hope you enjoy your coffee (:
Yay! Thank you!
This was an incredible video, clear, concise and in terms we can all understand. I have subscribed because I suspect the future holds more informative content. Thank you.
Thank you!
Me too!
Thank you for the feedback Rob. Much appreciated.
Happy to help!
Very nice. I actually set up some custom modes earlier today with the OM-1; two modes based on aperture mode. I soon saw a mistake I did...
* I set up the custom modes with the 12-45/4 attached. Problem: default aperture then was f/4, irrespective of attached lens
To fix the problem, I redid the customization with the fastest lens I had in my bag: the 20/1.4
* Now, the default aperture equals the largest aperture if the lens I attach.
So... my conclusion: attach the fastest lens you have when you set up the custom modes - at least if you want the default aperture to be max opening for the lens.
Nice catch. That's happened to me a few times but I forgot to mention it in this video. Thanks!
Hi Rob, I just purchased a new OM-1 & still have my OM-D EM-1 MKII that I have owned for 3 years, your video for the setup has helped me heaps, as I have usually only used Auto on the MKII, thanks very much & I have subbed you as well, back in the 70's I purchased the first 35 OM1 which took amazing images
Cheers
Ric
Thanks. I'm always happy to help.
@@RobTrek I do quite a few sunsets & sunrises, have you done a tutorial for these type of settings?
all the best
Ric
@@richoffmann I don't have any tutorials on this. When I do sunsets/sunrise, I generally do exposure bracketing because the dynamic range is too much for a single shot. If it has to be a single shot, I must pick what I want to be exposed properly. The landscape or the sky? Generally, you can cleanly recover highlights and shadows within +/- 2 Stops. So keep that in mind when exposing for a single shot or bracketing. Hope that helps. -Rob
@@RobTrek Thanks so much Rob for your assiststance, I have found if you use the enhanced colour & change the WB auto to cliudy the images are nearly spot on
all the best
Ric
This was a great tutorial. Just bought you a coffee. Thanks so much.
Awesome! Thank you!
Thanks, Rob. My OM 1 is in the post although during the wait I have downloaded and began reading the Manual. Well there may well be some camera improvements over my current Mkiii but the manual for the OM1 is Olympus complicated mess. I’ve now looked at video #1 in your series and was pleasantly surprised how easy the functions are to understand when projected in a clear and concise manner. I look forward to viewing the ongoing videos and it should go without saying that I have subscribed to your channel. Super.
Congrats on your new OM-1! Don't hesitate to ask any questions.
This was an excellent tutorial and exactly what I was looking for to help with my new OM-1 Digital. Thank you. I look forward to rewatching this and watch your other videos.
Glad it was helpful!
You are AWESOME! I just got this camera and am so excited after watching this!
Have fun!
Best om-1 tutorial video!
Thank you!
Thank you a great set of informative UA-cam sessions. The best explanations and logic on the settings and use. I have just purchased the OM1 after a break from photography for a few years and previously a Nikon man. Following your library with interest. Shout if you ever visit London, UK and I will buy you a beer !
Thanks! One day I'll visit the UK and we can have that beer!
Best tutorial for a camera I've seen great job!
Wow, thanks!
Hello Rob,
Thank you for producing an excellent series of videos on the OM-1. I have just ordered my OM-1 and should get it later in the week. I have been using the Panasonic G9, GH5 and GH6 with the Leica series of lenses, but I thought I should use the OM-1 as my primary camera for photocentric activities.
I have used your videos to put myself through an intensive course of learning about the OM-1. The clarity you provide when using the various functions of the camera are invaluable. Your detailed understand, knowledge and advice will assist me no end.
It is my understanding that the auto focusing of the Leica lenses on the OM-1 should be fine, but the lens Panasonic O.I.S. system will not be compatible with that of OM System 5-Axis Sync IS camera bodies .
So my question is does this apply to all Panasonic O.I.S. lenses or just certain O.I.S. lenses in the range?
My Panasonic/Leica lenses, which use O.I.S system, are the F1:4.0-6.3/100-400mm Zoom and the F:2.8 /200mm Prime, although I do have other O.I.S lenses in my Panasonic/Leica lens collection.
I have already purchased the Olympus F:1.2 /25 mm Pro lens and I eagerly await the OM System 90mm Macro lens, which I believe will be released in Australia in March or April 2023.
Once again Rob, I can't thank you enough!
With kind regards,
Bill
As far as I know, you will have to choose between the IBIS or Lens IS. They won't work together - no dual sync stabilization possible. For focal lengths below 150mm, I'd recommend using the IBIS. For longer telephoto lenses, use the Lens OIS. Since I don't own any Panasonic Telephoto lenses, I can't directly share my experience. On my 12-32mm OIS lens, the OM System IBIS is way better than the len's OIS.
Really helpful, clear video. Just got my OM1 a couple weeks ago, and holey moley the menus are sooo different (with so many more available options) compared to those of my previous, 9 year old OM-D. Thanks!
Glad to help! Thanks.
Very grateful indeed. Thank you so much Rob. 😊
Great video Rob. Very helpful for new people.
Thank you!
This was VERY useful. Thank you, Rob.
Happy to help.
Thanks, great video, need to watch again while changing my settings!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks! This was easy to do and very helpful.
Excellent video, so informative.
Great info. Enjoying your videos. Got my OM-1 about 3 weeks ago, and just added the 40-150 2.8 Pro lens. It's a beast of a system. Now to figure it all out lol
Congrats on your new camera!
Thank you, Mr. Trek.
You are very welcome
I got a grip quite quickly after getting my camera also a second battery but struggling to get a wireless remote control! Loving my camera, changed fron Nikon D500 with lots of Nikon and other manufacturers lenses. Wanted lighter system.
I use a Pixco wireless trigger which works fine. It plugs into the 2.5mm, same as Fujifilm. Of course, nothing like OM System original equipment. I myself switched from a Nikon D750 many years ago to the E-M10ii. No regrets. Check out Randy's flickr page. He shoots Olympus and Nikon d500. www.flickr.com/photos/98163474@N04
Thanks Rob, that was great information and I have set up my OM-1 in both modes as you suggested. Sorry your vision is deteriorating especially as a photographer.
Hi Rob, great, thank you for your quick response!! I've got it now saved on C1 and the second details saved on C2.
Rob, in case I would change a details while using C2 i.e. and want to keep the added/changed details in C2, what is to click on?
Will go on with your tutorials !
Always happy to help.
Appreciate your knowledge on this subject, thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Great videos Rob, I just bought an OM-1 so its really helping me. I wonder if you would know why my camera keeps cutting the video after about 5 seconds? I tried a different memory card and it allowed a 12 second video but then the next videos were just 5 seconds. Hope you can help!
Hi. Most likely you are using a memory card that is too slow and/or doesn't have enough space. Make sure you have a V30 rated sdcard and 32gb free. When I put my own class 10 cards in, it stops recording after 4 seconds. But all my V30 cards work no problem.
@@RobTrek Thanks for the response Rob, hmm it's still a mystery. My cards are speed class 10, V30, UHS speed class 3, bus interface UHS-I, is that the same card you use and it works no problem with recording 4k or sequential photos? I formatted another card with those stats and it recorded for 1 minute before cutting out, but the next video was 7 sec and the next 6 secs.
Hi Rob, which settings can I use best for my OM-5? Should I take them from your tutorial for the OM-1 or the Mark III? Cheers, Heinz
The Mark III would be easier to follow as the menus are very similar.
Love your clear messages Rob. I'm interested to know if your best settings - particularly AF for humans - changes for the OM-1 mark 2 Thanks again
I don't have the Mark 2, so can't make any recommendations on AF.
@@RobTrek Such a pity that such a clear communicator is not given access to a mark 2! I'm thinking about upgrading myself but need convincing. With the apparent improvement in AF success, removal of face detection and instead inclusion of human listed under subject detection, I was wondering if your recommendations for basic users will change eg. Suggested target for CAF, button assignment for subject detection and setup focus priority. Appreciate your help
I just got the camera. Excellent video. thank you
Glad it helped!
3 times watching, excellent!😄
Wow, thanks!
Hi Rob I have just discovered your videos and I am a beginner photographer with the OM-1. I’m like a teenager with a Ferrari! I only have one lens which is the Zuiko 100-400 Zoom as most of my photography will be birds. Therefore should I bother with the first Custom Setting you recommended? I’m guessing it could be good as a base and set the other Custom settings up using this base? I’d like to have a Custom Setting for Pro Capture and I’m guessing you have a video on this? Cheers and thanks for the great videos.
I made a video with my birding settings here: ua-cam.com/video/telXq-lT-vI/v-deo.html
After watching that one, let me know if you have anymore questions. -Rob
@@RobTrek thanks so much. I will watch it. Do you think it’s a good idea to save the basic settings in C1 like your video, anyway? I’ve done that already and can build from there I’m guessing.
Hi Rob so I have continued on with this video and also watched the one you sent a link to. I have made 2 changes to your recommended settings and want to be sure they are correct. I have added bird detect and I have AF target to All.
@@lbrophy14 It's a personal preference. If you shoot mostly birds in flight, then you might want to put those settings in C1.
@@lbrophy14 That is correct.
Excellent. Very helpful.
Just got my OM1. This was very helpful. Only question…face detection won’t turn on when I dial into shutter priority. ?
You may need to turn off subject detect mode. Maybe you have in "Bird" detect? Let me know if that was it. -Rob
@@RobTrek The good news I found it is on "Bird", I change it to off, but it does not stay off. Just defaults back to "bird". I have been a Nikon 750 & Z7 user but thought I would try OM1, as the lenses and camera are much lighter. I plan to watch all your tutorials as they are very helpful. Thank you again for your assistance.
Sorry I missed your reply, Leslie. That is weird. It should stay off. I'll see if I can duplicate the problem and resolve it. It's never happened to me.
Hello there and thanks for all the great information on the OM systems. I am a new owner of the OM-1 mk2 camera.
Can the histogram be moved to appear in another location instead of top left position?
Not that I know of.
Thanks for all the great videos you do about the OM-1 which I just purchased along with the Olympus 100-400mm. My question is, do I use only IBIS and leave the lens stabilization off or use both. Thanks.
Definitely use both! I don't have this lens but did test it and found it worked better with both stabilizations on.
Hi Rob, your video is absolutely great and everything is understandable for me - BUT - coming to the end to save the settings on C1 i.e. the camera don't save it and the settings are always as before the changes. What I've done wrong??? May I ask you to explain the final settings please? I'm German and the camera language is German as well.. when I come to save in C1 there are 3 button: First Abrufen with yes or no. Second Zuweisen with übernehmen or zurücksetzen. Third Einstellungen speichern with beibehalten or verwerfen.
I tried is 4 times now without success. Maybe one or more of the settings to save on C1 is wrong... I would much appreciate to hear from you !!
To save the settings, you want to use the 2nd line "Zuweisen". Make sure you keep the mode dial in the correct position "A" when saving. Don't move it to C1 until after you save the settings.
Great tutorial, thank you!!
Glad it was helpful!
G'day Rob. Thanks for your great videos on the OM1. I have one ordered and can't wait to I receive it. Is there any problems with charging the battery in camera or should I invest in a stand alone charger?
Kind regards
Warren
I've not heard of anyone having issues charging in-camera. I just don't like doing it. Call me overly cautious. Batteries can swell and/or explode. But the main reason I charge externally is convenience. I have two batteries, I can put them on the charger overnight and I'm ready to go the next day. I bought a 3rd party dual charger for $16 on Amazon and it works fine.
Hi Robb, Is there a way to name the custom settings C1-4 on the camera? I would forget them if not using the camera frequently?
Thanks. I have always enjoyed your detailed explanations on OM cameras.
Do you have an episode on GPS for the OM1? It would be nice if OM system make a hot shoe unit for GSP instead of relying on cell phone.
Hi. There is no way in-camera. You have to use the app on a phone. I haven't done a gps video but will give it a shot over the weekend.
Thank very reason, the new OM1 owner.
Thank you!
Thanks - great video.
Glad you liked it!
Another nice instructional video. One question if you adjust the base rear LCD brightness like you did, will it change the base brightness for exposure compensation as well?
Not sure if I would recommend to a beginner silent shutter. It would could lead to confusion with the flash
Thanks. Adjust the screen brightness doesn't affect the exposure. However, the image will look brighter or darker than it actually is on your camera. Most of the advanced features of the OM-1 are used in silent shutter mode. So I went with recommending silent shutter. I'm working on new flash tutorials and will address the shutter mode then.
@@RobTrek Thats what I thought, but I did not phrase my question properly.
Looking forward to your flash video
Excellent video, thank you for doing this. One comment, there are a few clips where we can hear an annoying high frequency artifact in the audio. I'm not sure where does that come from?
Thanks. I actually can't hear that sound because it's above my hearing frequency. It occurs around 11khz. Others have mentioned it and I've tried to eliminate it via notch filters. I've recently identified the source and will try to fix it.
I've been looking for something small enough to carry with me outside. As I get older, I find the weight of a full frame is getting to be a bit too much. I use Sony for in studio/on location. But I've decided to try OM Systems for this particular use.
Actually, I was very surprised to see a mirrorless named OM-1. As I put myself through Uni with an OM-1 film camera a very long time ago.
I love that they put OM-1 on the camera. I'm sure that helped sales of used film OM-1's. Both great cameras!
@@RobTrek Agreed
Grazie mr.Trek molto interessante e comoda buona sera.
Great video to learn from. Still I wonder why you cannot choose anti-flicker settings when in high-speed sequential SH2?
SH2 is a high speed setting. Anit-flicker slows the camera down to analyse the flicker rate before taking a pictures. You wouldn't be able to achieve SH2 fps rates otherwise.
Just bought my Om-1, so thiis is very useful, Rob. If you set say, your example for C1 and when you are out and about, can you still just tweak the settings if need be?
There are a couple of ways to do this. The best way is while you're in C1, save changes as you make them back into C1.
@@RobTrek Thank you
Great tutorial. My OM1 is on pre-order at the moment. What make/type of SD cards do you recommend?
I like the Pro-Grade UHS II v90 and Kingston UHS II v90 cards for best performance. The Samsung EVO UHS I v30 cards also work well.
@@RobTrek thank you, Rob.
Hello Mr Trek. I find your videos really helpful. As a long term full frame Canon user recently changed, I have a question. On my Canon 5Div, with BBF when I focus where I want, if I release the back button focus, the camera stays focused on the plane until I start shooting again. If the bird for example makes a new pose in the same spot, the camera is already focused. I cant get my OM-1 to do that. Am I missing something?
Hi. I answered your question today in a video here ua-cam.com/video/8LRWb8KNsNU/v-deo.html
Hello Rob.Can I use this tutorial to set my OM-1 Mark 2 ?
Yes.
@@RobTrek I really appreciate that you took the trouble to respond to my enquiry.
@@andrewbatchelor5498 If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. You can always email me rob at robtrek dot com.
The camera looks so good, I haven't had one in my hands yet.
The one thing I wish OM would do is put an aperture ring on the lense (like fugi) then let front dial be SS and back dial EC. That would be, for me, the perfect set up.
It's a great camera. I'm really enjoying mine. Not many companies are putting aperture rings on their lenses anymore except Fuji. Would be nice though.
I set mine up so front dial is aperture (nearest where the aperture ring would be) and rear dial is shutter. I don't feel a need for a dedicated EC button as I like full control. Using an EC button is not much different from shooting on Auto.
Of course, the OM-1 dials are not good. Especially the stiff and hard-to-access front dial.
My EM1.2 is also configured that way.
great video! Subscribed
Awesome, thank you!
Very HELPFUL
Glad to help!
Thanks alot for this info!
Glad it was helpful!
Rob thank you, clear, concise and simple. however, I have one problem and can't seem to have the live view display on the monitor consistently. I have to turn the camera off and then back on to see the monitor but much of the time that doesn' t work and I have to put my eye to the EVF to see the menu and the super control panel. Help please. This is worth two coffees.
Not having camera in-hand, I have to make some broad strokes here. First, if necessary, backup your settings in OM Workspace or the OM Share app on your phone. Now do a full reset in the wrench menu -> 6.Reset//Clock/Language -> Reset/Initialize Settings -> Initialize All Settings -> OK. At this point the live view should be working as expected. If not, then the next thing to try is cleaning the eye sensor located just below the evf. Remove the rubber eye piece and use a micro fiber cloth. If there is still no joy, then there is likely a problem with your camera and will need to be repaired. Let me know. -Rob
Cleaning the eye sensor may have done it. How do I buy you the coffee?
@@billsteen7563 That's great news! You can visit robtrek.com/donate Thank you!
Allow me anther take on basic settings. Unless you have a specific use case in mind that requires the A mode (macro) or the S mode (sports/action), just leave the camera in P (Program) mode and take advantage of the camera "smarts". This is a great setting for "walking around" photography - when you see something interesting, frame and take the shot, letting the camera choose aperture and shutter speed. Then, look at the image you took and ask yourself "Can I improve this shot?". Maybe you want to blur the background so you want to open up the aperture; maybe you want more background in focus, so you want to stop down the camera. If that is the case, then you don't have to leave the P mode - just use the program shift mode (rear dial) and get the settings you need, and take the shot. This works not just for beginners - I have been using this approach for a long time. Sometimes that first (P) shot is all you are going to get - the scene changes, the light changes, etc. So getting that first shot quickly is important. I also generally leave ISO at the default ISO 200 setting - I only change that (or go to auto ISO) if the light is difficult. Anyway, just a different view on this issue.
Thanks for sharing.
Great stuff
AS lways - I somehow managed to scramble a bunch of settings, and started over, used your video as a starting point. Quick question - the option for "CAF/MF" seems to have disappeared from the list of available modes. I'm usingCAF, and have a button set to toggle between manual and CAF, which I find works well, but wondered where the CAF/MF went? Thanks,
Hi. Sorry for the late reply. Go into the AF menu on Page 1 and change AF+MF to ON.
What scenarios would you use exposure compensation? Shouldn't you get a properly exposed image with aperture, iso, and shutter speed?
You typically use exposure compensation in high dynamic range scenes. For example, when taking pictures of people sitting on a rock with a sunset behind them. A normal exposure would make the people too dark. So you would dial in +2 exposure compensation to brighten them up. It's also used a lot for bracketing and hdr.
@@RobTrek thanks will have to play around with that.... In that scenario you have described would the +2 compensation blow the highlights in the sunset?
Hi Rob.
Thanks for another great video.
Can you tell me what settings are needed to output HDMI using a decent smart phone as a monitor ?. I have set up with a video capture card and decent cables to the phones. I have tried two apps so far, USB Camera and USB Camera Pro. I have tried different settings in the app and the camera. I am getting a phone screen that just shows lines of interference colour or a black screen. I am using a modern Ulefone X10 Pro and an older OnePlusOne phone. Both are compatible with the apps I have downloaded.
I have tried the capture card to connect a video camera to my computer and tested the output. If I go into Zoom or WhatsApp the Sony video camera works so it looks like the capture card and connectors are OK.
I have looked at some UA-cam videos of others using the same card and connectors and they seem to be able to get a good image on the screen straight away without going into any detailed settings.
Do you have any advice on what the setting should be on the Olympus EM1 Mark 1 to output the correct HDMI signal. I would appreciate any help. I have been trying to get it going for 2 days. PS. I have tried the setup on 2 cameras. The Olympus EM1 and the Nikon D7100. Same problem on both.
I don't have the EM1.1, so can't test it my hdmi setup. That said, I found that my hdmi capture devices will only accept 1080, 60p. So I have to set my camera to 1080, 60p. Also, I recently purchased a 4k hdmi-usb capture device for my phone and it doesn't work at all. It works fine when plugged into my computer, but not my phone. My other 1080 hdmi capture devices do work with my phone. I have a cheap generic 1080 hdmi to usb-a, and a J5 Create 1080 hdmi to USB-C that work great with my phone. Also, I found some apps didn't work with these, except one called USB Camera Viewr by Homesofft LLC. So you may need to try a few different apps even though they say the are all compatible. Hope that helps.
@@RobTrek Thanks Rob. That is really helpful. Will send you another cup of coffee when I have finished work. 😊
I will try the app you suggested. It may also be a situation where my capture card is one that isn't going to work on a phone. I will buy another that is USB 2.0 and see if that cures the problem.
@@RobTrek Rob just sent you a few $. Thank you so much for the time you give to the tutorials. Wish I could give more.
@@RobTrek Hi Rob.
In update, I have found that the EM1 Mark 1 does not support HDMI out for live viewing. The EM1 Mark 11 onwards does.
As soon as you plug the HDMI cable in the EM1-1 the screen goes off. If you have an auto zoom lens on the camera that will retract as well.
With the Mark 1 you can use the Olympus Wi Fi app "OM Share" that does work really well. In Pro situations, users may prefer a camera that can use a cabled set up and an external HDMI monitor.
The EM1 mark 1 has an AV out from a multi connector. I wonder if that will work with the correct adapter to a HDMI monitor or a phone. ?
great job👍🙏
Thank you 👍
Excellent Thanks
You are welcome!
Díky!
Thank you!
amazing -
is your om 1 getting warm while using for photo?
also can you hear the battery "working" electric sound while turned on?
Hi. I hadn't noticed the camera getting excessively warm, but just a little. I do hear the camera "on" sometimes. It's most likely the IBIS.
Rob - Since your settings place all stills and videos in SD # 1 that card is likely to fill up first. So, shouldn’t you assign the read from card to SD #2 in order to play back all stills? Curt Smith
That works if you don't want to review your movies. I sometimes assign movies to be recorded on SD #2. It's easy enough to switch viewing between card slots.
Thanks!
Thank you!!!
Hi again. I only have one SD card and it’s currently in slot 2. Because of cost I’m not in a hurry to buy another card. Is that ok? Or should I invest in another card?
You're fine with 1 card. If your current card is UHS-II, great. If not, then your next card should be. You'll get much better performance overall, but particularly when you use high speed continuous shutter modes and Pro-Capture.
Rob Trek, Can you please help with the back LCD display brightness of the M-1 mark II. I cannot find a way to adjust the brightness to be the same as am seeing a subject. So, the problem is the screen in bright but when I take a pic, the final image appears much darker. Thanks
Hi. I did my best to answer your question here: ua-cam.com/video/-_CX74EvcNo/v-deo.html
@@RobTrek You did indeed. Thank you for taking my question into account in your other video. Much appreciated :)
I am racking my brain here. I don’t shoot video and I feel I just bought the z6iii wasting my money and should have kept my and maybe have kept my OM-1 with the 40-150, 12-40.
I now have the NIKKOR 180-600, 24-120, and the 105. I just felt I was missing something with my Micro4/3. All of my pictures seemed soft when comparing to FF pictures. I guess I pixel peeped too much (which I guess was a habit I picked up from watching too many UA-cam videos. But really, shouldn’t the m4/3’s pictures be just as sharp and crisp as FF?
I do shoot wildlife, I shoot landscape, and I do shoot macro.
so I’m your honest opinion, should I trade my z6iii back to the OM-1?
Or just keep the Z6iii and get used to it?
I’m no professional, but I do love to print and I do love to post my pictures.
Help me make up my mind
I think the Nikon is great and you should keep it. The OM System has some advantages in wildlife and macro. But ultimately, either system should get you great results. I don't see any reason the m4/3 was not as sharp as the ff camera. I own the Sony A7Rv with it's 60mp sensor and the Fuji X-H2 with it's 40mp sensor. I really don't see much difference in normal shots. If you need to crop, then the higher res full frame cameras give you some flexibility there. But with the 24mp Nikon, you won't get that much. Dynamic range and iso performance will definitely be a lot better with the Nikon. So if you're pushing your images in post processing a lot, then FF will give you more flexibility.
@@RobTrek perfect!!
Thanks man. This really helps me a loy
Thanks
Thank you!
Hi, sorry, I wanted to ask you something. In the histogram of om1 there is a peak or mountain colored green. What does this parameter indicate? Obviously it moves with the entire histogram based on how I want to expose the photo. Hi thank you very much
Hi. Sorry for the late reply. It represents the exposure in the center. I have a video on this here: ua-cam.com/video/BeRw3VUWz2s/v-deo.html
@@RobTrek thank you so much
¡Gracias!
Thank you!
My comment is that a novice trying to get started by the instructions that are great for someone with knowledge. I ask for beginner instructions with step by step help and I’m sure would be great if I could find them. I read in an introductory article. I found them I thought. But all but my recorder were there. I’m sure that my threat of getting my money back would scare you to death and probably break your bank $69.00. If it is at all possible send me basic set up procedures as you do promise. Thanks for letting an old man 85 y/0 next week and this recorder was a part of that. Bye now and have a great week end. BARRY
10:46 Can the aperture and exposure compensation dials be switched in the camera menu?
Hi. I answered your question today in a video here ua-cam.com/video/8LRWb8KNsNU/v-deo.html
Danke!
Thank you!
Hello Rob. A couple of weeks agoo i saw a reaction of one of your subscribers who had the same problem as im having with video.
Each last frame of a scene is produced as a 'freeze frame' in editting, resulting in a lot of extra work getting those out first. You wrote you tested this and had the same result, and that you would ask some people how to fix it. Did you ever get an answer of those people? Or from om systems?
I haven't heard anything back. Thanks for the reminder. I'll follow up again.
@@RobTrek Thank you so much Rob. For us, video makers, it's really important to get this camera working. Since the importer in Europe even refuses to regonise the fault.
Hi, Mario. I sent a support request directly to OM Systems today. I'll let you know if I hear anything. I usually get a response in a few days. Here is the text I sent.
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This is in regard to the Olympus OM-1 Digital Camera. Specifically, recording video.
At the end of every recorded video file, several frames are frozen.
So if recording at 30fps, the last 1 second of video, roughly 15 frames are identical.
This makes playing video clips back to back impossible without a momentary "freeze".
I tried different variations of codec, framerate, and picture profiles.
Others have reported the same thing on their OM-1. This did not happen with the E-M1 Mark III.
Thank you,
-Rob
aka Rob Trek
@@RobTrek Hello Rob. Im really grateful! I hope they will listen to you, because this bug has been in it from day one the camera came out. I have my holiday video still laying untouched here. With over 2000 scenes I don't even want to start with it. Thank you so much!
@@RobTrek Hello Rob. Sorry to bother you again, but have you heard anything from them by now? I found 12 other people, most on facebook, with the same problem. The strange thing is, when they report it to their importer or to OM-System they all get diffrent answers. Some very strange aswell. "This problem is unknown to us, therefore we think it must be a user error"??? Or, " just dont use the 4K HLG 10 bit 422 option", wich i think is VERY strange, since they used exactly that as a selling point for people who want to use it as a video camera? I wrote them about that and now they decided not to answer me at all anymore. Wich makes me regret that i sold my M1-mark 3 and bought this one.
Rob: Here is ANOTHER time I need Help! I just bought a second OM-1 from ebay. For all intents & purposes, the camera works fine; however, it fails to focus in S-AF mode. Is there some combination of settings that could cause this?
Well, partial False Alarm! I RESET everything, and now S-AF works fine, Whew! Any idea what would cause this? I _thought_ S-AF was working fine, I've been shooting with the camera, and I use S-AF a lot, but I've been playing around with different settings ... I _CERTAINLY do not want to run onto this situation on a Wedding shoot! A RESET is far too risky in the field ... at a Wedding.
Any ideas? Thanks so much.
Most likely you had S-AF Release Priority Turned "ON".
@@RobTrek Same camera, I tried turning "Release Priority" for S-AF to ON. Then did some tests. The results were that the camera still focuses in S-AF mode! There must have been some other setting that was off. Before resetting, Here are some observations: The lens had no MF clutch, and all the options for shutter release included "xxx+MF" -- no other options were shown in the menu; C-AF and Starry Sky were the only choices that could be chosen. Thoughts?
@@RobTrek My Camera works fine!!! BTW: (may have) had the camera in Starry-Sky mode by accident! That will stop any AF cold.
@@tkarlmann Yes, that makes sense. Thanks for the update.
Thanks Rob for a great tutorial, I purchased the Oolympus OM 1 yesterday so it's been very helpful. I followed your instructions and created a custom mode for general photography and another for action. It all works fine with one exception. Now when I choose P, A or M mode, they all have the settings I assigned to action photography! Can you please help with this. Thank you!
You just need to change the settings when in PASM. It will remember them even if you go into C1 and go back.
@@RobTrek Thank you Rob you are amazing. I’m loving this camera with 75 f1.8. A remarkable lens! How can I reach out to you financially?
@@stevec8555 Always happy to help. You can support my work here robtrek.com/donate